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A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY.
BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D.
MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT.
SECOND EDITION.
VOLUME III.
[Illustration: Logo]
DEI OMNIA PLENA.
LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR.
1829.
CONTENTS OF VOLUME III.
CONTENTS
VOLUME III.
LETTER I.
Strasbourg to Stuttgart. Baden. The Elder Schweighaeuser. STUTTGART.
The Public Library. The Royal Library, 1
LETTER II.
The Royal Palace. A Bibliographical Negotiation. Dannecker the Sculptor.
Environs of Stuttgart, 43
LETTER III.
Departure from Stuttgart. ULM. AUGSBOURG.
The Picture Gallery at Augsbourg, 55
LETTER IV.
AUGSBOURG. Civil and Ecclesiastical Architecture.
Population. Trade. The Public Library, 91
LETTER V.
MUNICH. Churches. Royal Palace. Picture Gallery.
The Public Library, 105
LETTER VI. Further Book-Acquisitions. Society.
The Arts, 149
LETTER VII.
Freysing. Landshut. Altoeting. Salzburg.
The Monastery of St. Peter, 169
LETTER VIII.
Salzburg to Chremsminster. The Lake Gmunden.
The Monastery of Chremsminster. Lintz, 206
LETTER IX.
The Monasteries of St. Florian, Moelk, and Goettwic, 232
LETTER X.
VIENNA. Imperial Library. Illuminated MSS. and
early printed Books, 279
LETTER XI.
Population. Streets and Fountains. Churches. Convents. Palaces.
Theatres. The Prater. The Emperor's Private Library. Collection of Duke
Albert. Suburbs. Monastery of Closterneuburg. Departure from
Vienna, 335
SUPPLEMENT.
Ratisbon, Nuremberg, Manheim, 407
LETTER I.
STRASBOURG TO STUTTGART. BADEN. THE ELDER SCHWEIGHAEUSER. STUTTGART. THE
PUBLIC LIBRARY. THE ROYAL LIBRARY.
_Stuttgart, Poste Royale, August 4, 1818._
Within forty-eight hours of the conclusion of my last, I had passed the
broad and rapidly-flowing Rhine. Having taken leave of all my hospitable
acquaintances at Strasbourg, I left the _Hotel de l'Esprit_ between five
and six in the afternoon--when the heat of the day had a little
subsided--with a pair of large, sleek, post horses; one of which was
bestrode by the postilion, in the red and yellow livery of the duchy of
Baden.
Our first halting place, to change horses, was _Kehl_; but we had not
travelled a league on this side of the Rhine, ere we discovered a palpable
difference in the general appearance of the country. There was more
pasture-land. The houses were differently constructed, and were more
generally surrounded by tall trees. Our horses carried us somewhat fleetly
along a good, broad, and well-conditioned road. Nothing particularly
arrested our attention till we reached _Bischoffsheim, a la haute monte_;
where the general use of the German language soon taught us the value of
our laquais; who, from henceforth, will be often called by his baptismal
name of Charles. At Bischoffsheim, while fresh horses were being put to, I
went to look at the church; an humble edifice--but rather picturesquely
situated. In my way thither I passed, with surprise, a great number of
_Jews_ of both sexes; loitering in all directions. I learnt that this place
was the prescribed _limits_ of their peregrinations; and that they were not
suffered, by law, to travel beyond it: but whether this law restricted them
from entering Suabia, or Bavaria, I could not learn. I approached the
church, and with the aid of a good-natured verger, who happened luckily to
speak French, I was conducted all over the interior--which was sufficiently
neat. But the object of my peculiar astonishment was, that Jews,
Protestants, and Catholics, all flocked alike, and frequently, at the SAME
TIME, to exercise their particular forms of worship within this church!--a
circumstance, almost partaking of the felicity of an Utopian commonwealth.
I observed, indeed, a small crucifix upon the altar, which confirmed me in
the belief that the Lutheran worship, according to the form of the
Augsbourg confession, was practised here; and the verger told me there was
no other place of worship in the village. His information might be
deceitful or erroneous; but it is to the honour of his character that I
add, that, on offering him a half florin for his trouble in shewing me the
church, he seemed to think it a point of conscience _not_ to receive it.
His refusal was mild but firm--and he concluded by saying, gently repelling
the hand which held the money, "jamais, jamais!" Is it thus, thought I to
myself, that "they order things in" Germany?
The sun had set, and the night was coming on apace, after we left
_Bischoffsheim_, and turned from the high road on the left, leading to
Rastadt to take the right, for _Baden_. For the advantage of a nearer cut,
we again turned to the right--and passed through a forest of about a league
in length. It was now quite dark and late: and if robbers were abroad, this
surely was the hour and the place for a successful attack upon defenceless
travellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the comfort of his pipe,
which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which the light and scent were
equally cheering and pleasant. We were so completely hemmed in by trees,
that their branches brushed strongly in our faces, as we rolled swiftly
along. Every thing was enveloped in silence and darkness: but the age of
banditti, as well as of chivalry--at least in Germany--appears to be
"gone." We sallied forth from the wood unmolested; gained again the high
road; and after discerning some lights at a distance, which our valet told
us (to our great joy) were the lights of BADEN, we ascended and
descended--till, at midnight, we entered the town. On passing a bridge,
upon which I discerned a whole-length statue of _St. Francis_, (with the
infant Christ in his arms) we stopped, to the right, at the principal
hotel, of which I have forgotten the name; but of which, one Monsieur or Le
Baron Cotta, a bookseller of this town, is said to be the proprietor.
The servants were yet stirring: but the hotel was so crowded that it was
impossible to receive us. We pushed on quickly to another, of which I have
also forgotten the name--and found the principal street almost entirely
filled by the carriages of visitors. Here again we were told there was no
room for us. Had it not been for our valet, we must have slept in the open
street; but he recollected a third inn, whither we went immediately, and to
our joy found just accommodation sufficient. We saw the carriage safely put
into the remise, and retired to rest. The next morning, upon looking out of
window, every thing seemed to be faery land. I had scarcely ever before
viewed so beautiful a spot. I found the town of Baden perfectly surrounded
by six or seven lofty, fir-clad hills, of tapering forms, and of luxuriant
verdure. Thus, although compared with such an encircling belt of hills,
Baden may be said to lie in a hollow--it is nevertheless, of itself, upon
elevated ground; commanding views of lawns, intersected by gravel walks; of
temples, rustic benches, and detached buildings of a variety of
description. Every thing, in short, bespeaks nature improved by art; and
every thing announced that I was in a place frequented by the rich, the
fashionable, and the gay.
I was not long in finding out the learned and venerable SCHWEIGHAEUSER, who
had retired here, for a few weeks, for the benefit of the waters--which
flow from _hot_ springs, and which are said to perform wonders. Rheumatism,
debility, ague, and I know not what disorders, receive their respective and
certain cures from bathing in these tepid waters. I found the Professor in
a lodging house, attached to the second hotel which we had visited on our
arrival. I sent up my name, with a letter of introduction which I had
received from his Son. I was made most welcome. In this celebrated Greek
scholar, and editor of some of the most difficult ancient Greek authors, I
beheld a figure advanced in years--somewhere about seventy-five--tall,
slim, but upright, and firm upon his legs: with a thin, and at first view,
severe countenance--but, when animated by conversation, and accompanied by
a clear and melodious voice, agreeable, and inviting to discourse. The
Professor was accompanied by one of his daughters; strongly resembling her
brother, who had shewn me so much kindness at Strasbourg. She told me her
father was fast recovering strength; and the old gentleman, as well as his
daughter, strongly invited us to dinner; an invitation which we were
compelled to decline.
On leaving, I walked nearly all over the town, and its immediate environs:
but my first object was the CHURCH, upon the top of the hill; from which
the earliest (_Protestant_) congregation were about to depart--not before I
arrived in time to hear some excellently good vocal and instrumental music,
from the front seat of a transverse gallery. There was much in this church
which had an English air about it: but my attention was chiefly directed to
some bronze monuments towards the eastern extremity, near the altar; and
fenced off, if I remember rightly, by some rails from the nave and side
aisles. Of these monuments, the earliest is that of _Frederick, Bishop of
Treves_. He died in 1517, in his 59th year. The figure of him is recumbent:
with a mitre on his head, and a quilted mail for his apron. The body is
also protected, in parts, with plate armour. He wears a ring upon each of
the first three fingers of his right hand. It is an admirable piece of
workmanship: bold, sharp, correct, and striking in all its parts. Near this
episcopal monument is another, also of bronze, of a more imposing
character; namely, of _Leopold William Margrave or Duke of Baden_, who died
in 1671, and of the _Duchess_, his wife. The figure of Leopold, evidently a
striking portrait, is large, heavy, and ungracious; but that of his wife
makes ample amends--for a more beautifully expressive and interesting
bronze figure, has surely never been reared upon a monumental pedestal. She
is kneeling, and her hands are closed--in the act of prayer. The head is
gently turned aside, as well as inclined: the mouth is very beautiful, and
has an uncommon sweetness of expression: the hair, behind, is singular but
not inelegant. The following is a part of the inscription: "_Vivit post
funera virtus. Numinis hinc pietas conjugis inde trahit_." I would give
half a dozen ducats out of the supplemental supply of Madame Francs to have
a fine and faithful copy of this very graceful and interesting monumental
figure. As I left the church, the second (_Catholic_) congregation was
entering for divine worship. Meanwhile the heavens were "black with
clouds;" the morning till eleven o'clock, having been insufferably hot and
a tremendous thunder storm--which threatened to deluge the whole place with
rain--moved, in slow and sullen majesty, quite round and round the town,
without producing any other effect than that of a few sharp flashes, and
growling peals, at a distance. But the darkened and flitting shadows upon
the fir trees, on the hills, during the slow wheeling of the threatening
storm, had a magnificently picturesque appearance.
The walks, lawns, and rustic benches about Baden, are singularly pretty and
convenient. Here was a play-house; there, a temple; yonder, a tavern,
whither the _Badenois_ resorted to enjoy their Sunday dinner. One of these
taverns was unusually large and convenient. I entered, as a stranger, to
look around me: and was instantly struck by the notes of the deepest-toned
bass voice I had ever heard--accompanied by some rapidly executed passages
upon the harp. These ceased--and the softer strains of a young female voice
succeeded. Yonder was a _master singer_[1]--as I deemed him--somewhat
stooping from age; with white hairs, but with a countenance strongly
characteristic of intellectual energy of _some_ kind. He was sitting in a
chair. By the side of him stood the young female, about fourteen, from
whose voice the strains, just heard, had proceeded. They sang alternately,
and afterwards together: the man holding down his head as he struck the
chords of his harp with a bold and vigorous hand. I learnt that they were
uncle and niece. I shall not readily forget the effect of these figures, or
of the songs which they sang; especially the sonorous notes of the
mastersinger, or minstrel. He had a voice of most extraordinary compass. I
quickly perceived that I was now in the land of music; but the guests
seemed to be better pleased with their food than with the songs of this old
bard, for he had scarcely received a half florin since I noticed him.
Professor Schweighaeuser came to visit me at the appointed hour of six, in
order to have an evening stroll together to a convent, about two miles off,
which is considered to be the fashionable evening walk and ride of the
place. I shall long have reason to remember this walk; as well from the
instructive discourse of my venerable and deeply learned guide, as from the
beauty of the scenery and variety of the company. As the heat of the day
subsided, the company quitted their tables in great crowds. The mall was
full. Here was Eugene Beauharnois, drawn in a carriage by four black
steeds, with traces of an unusual length between the leaders and wheel
horses. A grand Duke was parading to the right: to the left, a Marchioness
was laughing _a pleine gorge_. Here walked a Count, and there rode a
General. Bavarians, Austrians, French, and English--intermixed with the
tradesmen of Baden, and the rustics of the adjacent country--all,
glittering in their gayest sabbath-attires, mingled in the throng, and
appeared to vie with each other in gaiety and loudness of talk.
We gained a more private walk, within a long avenue of trees; where a small
fountain, playing in the midst of a grove of elm and beech, attracted the
attention both of the Professor and ourselves. "It is here," observed the
former--"where I love to come and read your favourite Thomson." He then
mentioned Pope, and quoted some verses from the opening of his Essay on
Man--and also declared his particular attachment to Young and Akenside.
"But our Shakspeare and Milton, Sir--what think you of these?" "They are
doubtless very great and superior to either: but if I were to say that I
understood them as well, I should say what would be an untruth: and nothing
is more disgusting than an affectation of knowing what you have,
comparatively, very little knowledge of." We continued our route towards
the convent, at a pretty brisk pace; with great surprise, on my part, at
the firm and rapid movements of the Professor. Having reached the convent,
we entered, and were admitted within the chapel. The nuns had just retired;
but we were shewn the partition of wood which screens them most effectually
from the inquisitive eyes of the rest of the congregation. We crossed a
shallow, but rapidly running brook, over which was only one plank, of the
ordinary width, to supply the place of a bridge. The venerable Professor
led the way--tripping along so lightly, and yet so surely, as to excite our
wonder. We then mounted the hill on the opposite side of the convent; where
there are spiral, and neatly trimmed, gravel walks, which afford the means
of an easy and pleasant ascent--but not altogether free from a few sharp
and steep turnings. From the summit of this hill, the Professor bade me
look around, and view a valley which was the pride of the neighbourhood,
and which was considered to have no superior in Suabia. It was certainly
very beautiful--luxuriant in pasture and woodland scenery, and surrounded
by hills crowned with interminable firs.
As we descended, the clock of the convent struck eight, which was succeeded
by the tolling of the convent bell. After a day of oppressive heat, with a
lowering atmosphere threatening instant tempest, it was equally, grateful
and refreshing to witness a calm blue sky, chequered by light fleecy
clouds, which, as they seemed to be scarcely impelled along by the evening
breeze, were fringed in succession by the hues of a golden sun-set. The
darkening shadows of the trees added to the generally striking effect of
the scene. As we neared the town, I perceived several of the common people,
apparently female rustics, walking in couples, or in threes, with their
arms round each others necks, joining in some of the popular airs of their
country. The off-hand and dextrous manner in which they managed the _second
parts_, surprised and delighted me exceedingly. I expressed my
gratification to Mr. Schweighaeuser, who only smiled at my wondering
simplicity. "If _these_ delight you so much, what would you say to our
_professors_?"--observed he. "Possibly, I might not like them quite so
well," replied I. The professor pardoned such apparent heresy; and we
continued to approach the town. We were thirsty from our walk, and wished
to enter the tea gardens to partake of refreshment. Our guide became here
both our interpreter and best friend; for he insisted upon treating us. We
retired into a bocage, and partook of one of the most delicious bottles of
white wine which I ever remember to have tasted. He was urgent for a second
bottle; but I told him we were very sober Englishmen.
In our way home, the discourse fell upon literature, and I was anxious to
obtain from our venerable companion an account of his early studies, and
partialities for the texts of such Greek authors as he had edited. He told
me that he was first put upon collations of Greek MSS. by our _Dr.
Musgrave_, for his edition of _Euripides_; and that he dated, from that
circumstance, his first and early love of classical research. This
attachment had increased upon him as he became older--had "grown with his
growth, and strengthened with his strength"--and had induced him to grapple
with the unsettled, and in parts difficult, texts of _Appian_, _Epictetus_,
and _Athenaeus_. He spoke with a modest confidence of his _Herodotus_--just
published: said that he was even then meditating a _second_ Latin version
of it: and observed that, for the more perfect execution of the one now
before the public, he had prepared himself by a diligent perusal of the
texts of the purer Latin historians. We had now entered the town, and it
was with regret that I was compelled to break off such interesting
conversation. In spite of the lateness of the hour (ten o'clock) and the
darkness of the evening, the worthy old Grecian would not suffer me to
accompany him home--although the route to his house was devious, and in
part precipitously steep, and the Professor's sight was not remarkably
good. When we parted, it was agreed that I should breakfast with him on the
morrow, at eight o'clock, as we intended to quit Baden at nine.
The next morning, I was true to the hour. The Professor's coffee, bread,
butter, and eggs were excellent. Having requested our valet to settle every
thing at the inn, and bring the carriage and horses to the door of M.
Schweighaeuser by nine o'clock, I took a hearty leave of our amiable and
venerable host, accompanied with mutual regrets at the shortness of the
visit--and with a resolution to cultivate an acquaintance so heartily
began. As we got into the carriage, I held up his portrait which Mr. Lewis
had taken,[2] and told him "he would be neither out of _sight_ nor out of
_mind_" He smiled graciously--waved his right hand from the balcony upon
which he stood--and by half-past nine we found the town of Baden in our
rear. I must say that I never left a place, which had so many attractions,
with keener regret, and a more fixed determination to revisit it. That
"revisit" may possibly never arise; but I recommend all English travellers
to spend a week, at the least, at Baden--called emphatically,
_Baden-Baden_. The young may be gratified by the endless amusements of
society, in many of its most polished forms. The old may be delighted by
the contemplation of nature in one of her most picturesque aspects, as well
as invigorated by the waters which gush in boiling streams from her rocky
soil.
I shall not detain you a minute upon the road from Baden to this place;
although we were nearly twenty-four hours so detained. _Rastadt_ and
_Karlsruhe_ are the only towns worth mentioning in the route. The former is
chiefly distinguished for its huge and tasteless castle or palace--a sort
of Versailles in miniature; and the latter is singularly pleasing to an
Englishman's eye, from the trim and neat appearance of the houses, walks,
and streets; which latter have the footpaths almost approaching to our
pavement. You enter and quit the town through an avenue of lofty and large
stemmed poplars, at least a mile long. The effect, although formal, is
pleasing. They were the loftiest poplars which I had ever beheld. The
churches, public buildings, gardens, and streets (of which _latter_ the
principal is a mile long) have all an air of tidiness and comfort; although
the very sight of them is sufficient to freeze the blood of an antiquary.
There is nothing, apparently, more than ninety-nine years old! We dined at
Karlsruhe, and slept at _Schweiberdingen_, one stage on this side of
Stuttgart: but for two or three stages preceding Stuttgart, we were
absolutely astonished at the multitude of apple-trees, laden, even to the
breaking down of the branches, with goodly fruit, just beginning to ripen:
and therefore glittering in alternate hues of red and yellow--all along the
road-side as well as in private gardens. The vine too was equally fruitful,
and equally promising of an abundant harvest.
There was a drizzling rain when we entered THIS TOWN. We passed the long
range of royal stables to the right, and the royal palace to the left; the
latter, with the exception of a preposterously large gilt crown placed upon
the central part of a gilt cushion, in every respect worthy of a royal
residence. On, driving to the hotel of the _Roi d'Angleterre_, we found
every room and every bed occupied; and were advised to go to the place from
whence I now address you. But the _Roman Emperor_ is considered to be more
fashionable: that is to say, the charges are more extravagant. Another
time, however, I will visit neither the one nor the other; but take up my
quarters at the _King of Wirtemberg_--the neatest, cleanliest, and most
comfortable hotel in Stuttgart. In _this_ house there is too much noise and
bustle for a traveller whose nerves are liable to be affected.
As a whole, Stuttgart is a thoroughly dull place. Its immediate environs
are composed of vine-covered hills, which, at this season of the year, have
an extremely picturesque appearance; but, in winter, when nothing but a
fallow-like looking earth is visible, the effect must be very dreary. This
town is large, and the streets--especially the _Koenings-strasse,_ or
King-Street,--are broad and generally well paved. The population may be
about twenty-two thousand. He who looks for antiquities, will be cruelly
disappointed; with the exception of the _Hotel de Ville_, which is placed
near a church, and more particularly of a _Crucifix_--there is little or
nothing to satisfy the hungry cravings of a thorough-bred English
Antiquary. The latter is of stone, of a rough grain, and sombre tint: and
the figures are of the size of life. They are partly mutilated; especially
the right leg of our Saviour, and the nose of St. John. Yet you will not
fail to distinguish, particularly from the folds of the drapery, that
precise character of art which marked the productions both of the chisel
and of the pencil in the first half of the sixteenth century. The Christ
is, throughout, even including the drapery, finely marked; and the attitude
of the Virgin, in looking up, has great expression. She embraces intensely
the foot of the cross; while her eyes and very soul seem to be as intensely
rivetted to her suffering and expiring Son.
I was not long in introducing myself to M. LE BRET, the head Librarian; for
the purpose of gaining admission to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. That gentleman and
myself have not only met, but met frequently and cordially. Each interview
only increased the desire for a repetition of it: and the worthy and
well-informed Head Librarian has partaken of a trout and veal dinner with
me, and shared in one bottle of _Fremder Wein_, and in another of
_Ordinaerer Wein_.[3] We have, in short, become quite sociable; and I will
begin by affirming, that, a more thoroughly competent, active, and
honourable officer, for the situation which he occupies, his Majesty the
King of Wuertemberg does not possess in any nook, corner, or portion of his
Suabian dominions. I will prove what I say at the point of--my pen. Yet
more extraordinary intelligence. A "deed of note" has been performed; and
to make the mystery more mysterious, you are to know that I have paid my
respects to the King, at his late levee; the first which has taken place
since the accouchement of the Queen.[4] And what should be the _object_ of
this courtly visit? Truly, nothing more or less than to agitate a question
respecting the possession of _two old editions of Virgil_, printed in the
year 1471. But let me be methodical.
When I parted from Lord Spencer on this "Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
Picturesque Tour," I was reminded by his Lordship of the second edition of
the _Virgil_ printed at Rome by _Sweynheym_ and _Pannartz_, and of another
edition, _printed by Adam_, in 1471, both being in the public library of
this place:--but, rather with a desire, than any seriously-grounded hope,
on his part of possessing them. Now, when we were running down upon
_Nancy_--as described in a recent despatch,[5] I said to Mr. Lewis, on
obtaining a view of what I supposed might be the Vosges, that, "behind the
Vosges was the _Rhine_, and on the other side of the Rhine was _Stuttgart!_
and it was at Stuttgart that I should play my first trump-card in the
bibliographical pack which I carried about me." But all this seemed
mystery, or methodised madness, to my companion. However, I always bore his
Lordship's words in mind--and something as constantly told me that I should
gain possession of these long sought after treasures: but in fair and
honourable combat: such as beseemeth a true bibliographical Knight.
Having proposed to visit the public library on the morrow--and to renew the
visit as often and as long as I pleased--I found, on my arrival, the worthy
Head Librarian, seriously occupied in a careful estimate of the value of
the Virgils in question--and holding up _Brunet's Manuel du Libraire_ in
his right hand--"Tenez, mon ami," exclaimed he, "vous voyez que la seconde
edition de Virgile, imprimee par vos amis Sweynheym et Pannartz, est encore
plus rare que la premiere." I replied that "c'etoit la fantasie seule de
l'auteur." However, he expressed himself ready to receive preliminaries,
which would be submitted to the Minister of the Interior, and by him--to
the King; for that the library was the exclusive property of his Majesty.
It was agreed, in the first instance, that the amount of the pecuniary
value of the two books should be given in modern books of our own country;
and I must do M. Le Bret the justice to say, that, having agreed upon the
probable pecuniary worth, he submitted a list of books, to be received in
exchange, which did equal honour to his liberality and judgment.
I have said something about the _local_ of this Public Library, and of its
being situated in the market-place.[6] This market-place, or square, is in
the centre of the town; and it is the only part, in the immediate vicinity
of which the antiquarian's eye is cheered by a sight of the architecture of
the sixteenth century. It is in this immediate vicinity, that the _Hotel de
Ville_ is situated; a building, full of curious and interesting relics of
sculpture in wood and stone. Just before it, is a fountain of black marble,
where the women come to fetch water, and the cattle to drink. Walking in a
straight line with the front of the public library (which is at right
angles with the Hotel de Ville) you gain the best view of this Hotel, in
conjunction with the open space, or market place, and of the churches in
the distance. About this spot, Mr. Lewis fixed himself, with his pencil and
paper in hand, and produced a drawing from which I select the following
felicitous portion.
[Illustration: Drawing]
But to return to the Public Library. You are to know therefore, that The
Public Library of Stuttgart contains, in the whole, about 130,000 volumes.
Of these, there are not fewer than 8200 volumes relating to the _Sacred
Text_: exclusively of duplicates. This library has been indeed long
celebrated for its immense collection of _Bibles_. The late King of
Wuertemberg, but more particularly his father, was chiefly instrumental to
this extraordinary collection:--and yet, of the very earlier Latin
impressions, they want the _Mazarine_, or the _Editio Princeps_; and the
third volume of _Pfister's_ edition. Indeed the first volume of their copy
of the latter wants a leaf or two of prefatory matter. They have two copies
of the first _German Bible_, by _Mentelin_[7]--of which _one_ should be
disposed of, for the sake of contributing to the purchase of the earliest
edition of the Latin series. Each copy is in the original binding; but they
boast of having a _complete series of German Bibles_ before the time of
Luther; and of Luther's earliest impression of 1524, printed by Peypus,
they have a fine copy UPON VELLUM, like that in the Althorp Library; but I
think taller. Of Fust's Bible of 1462, there is but an indifferent and
cropt copy, upon paper; but of the _Polish Bible_ of 1563, there is a very
fine one, in the first oaken binding. Of _English Bibles_, there is no
edition before that of 1541, of which the copy happens to be imperfect.
They have a good large copy, in the original binding, of the _Sclavonian
Bible_ of 1581. Yet let me not dismiss this series of earlier Bibles,
printed in different languages, without noticing the copies of _Italian
versions_ of August and October 1471. Of the August impression, there is
unluckily only the second volume; but such _another_ second volume will not
probably be found in any public or private library in Europe. It is just as
if it had come fresh from the press of _Vindelin de Spira_, its printer.
Some of the capital letters are illuminated in the sweetest manner
possible. The leaves are white, unstained, and crackling; and the binding
is of wood. Of the _October_ impression, the copy is unequal: that is to
say, the first volume is cruelly cut, but the second is fine and tall. It
is in blue morocco binding. I must however add, in this biblical
department, that they possess a copy of our _Walton's Polyglott_ with the
_original dedication_ to King Charles II.; of the extreme rarity of which
M. Le Bret was ignorant.[8]
I now come to the CLASSICS. Of course the _two Virgils_ of 1471 were the
first objects of my examination. The _Roman_ edition was badly bound in red
morocco; that of _Adam_ was in its original binding of wood. When I opened
the _latter_, it was impossible to conceal my gratification. I turned to M.
Le Bret, and then to the book--and to the Head Librarian, and to the
book--again and again! "How now, Mons. Le Bibliographe?" (exclaimed the
professor--for M. Le Bret is a Professor of belles-lettres), "I observe
that you are perfectly enchanted with what is before you?" There was no
denying the truth of the remark--and I could plainly discern that the
worthy Head Librarian was secretly enjoying the attestations of my
transport. "The more I look at these two volumes (replied I, very leisurely
and gravely,) the more I am persuaded that they will become the property of
Earl Spencer." M. Le Bret laughed aloud at the strangeness of this reply. I
proceeded to take a particular account of them.[9]
Here is an imperfect copy of an edition of _Terence_, by _Reisinger_, in
folio; having only 130 leaves, and twenty-two lines in a full page.[10] It
is the first copy of this edition which I ever saw; and I am much deceived
if it be exceeded by any edition of the same author in rarity: and when I
say this, I am not unmindful of the Editio Princeps of it by
_Mentelin_--which happens _not_ to be here. There is, however, a
beautifully white copy of this latter printer's Editio Princeps of
_Valerius Maximus_; but not so tall as the largest of the two copies of
this same edition which I saw at Strasbourg. Of the _Offices of Cicero_, of
1466, there is rather a fine tall copy (within a quarter of an inch of ten
inches high) UPON VELLUM; in the original wooden binding. The first two or
three leaves have undergone a little martyrdom, by being scribbled upon. Of
J. de Spira's edition of the _Epistles of Cicero_, of 1469--having the
colophon on the recto of the last leaf--here is a fine, broad-margined
copy, which however ought to be cleansed from the stains which disfigure
it. I was grieved to see so indifferent a copy of the Edit. Prin. of
_Tacitus_: but rejoiced at beholding so large and beautiful a one (in its
original wooden binding) of the _Lucan_ of 1475, with the Commentary of
Omnibonus; printed as I conceive, by _I. de Colonia and M. de
Gherretzem_.[11]
But I had nearly forgotten to acquaint you with a remarkably fine,
thick-leaved, crackling copy--yet perhaps somewhat cropt--of Cardinal
_Bessarion's Epistles_, printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz at Rome in 1469.
It is in old gilt edges, in a sort of binding of wood.
I now come to the notice of a few choice and rare _Italian books_: and
first, for _Dante_. Here is probably the rarest of all the earlier editions
of this poet: that is to say, the edition printed at Naples by Tuppo, in
two columns, having forty-two lines in a full column. At the end of the
_Inferno_, we read "Gloria in excelsis Deo," in the gothic letter; the text
being uniformly roman. At the end of the _Purgatorio_:
SOLI DEO GLORIA.
Erubescat Judeus Infelir.
At the end of the _Paradiso_: DEO GRATIAS--followed by Tuppo's address to
Honofrius Carazolus of Naples. A register is on the recto of the following
and last leaf. This copy is large, but in a dreadfully loose, shattered,
and dingy state--in the original wooden binding. So precious an edition
should be instantly rebound. Here is the Dante of 1478, with the
_Commentary of Guido Terzago, printed at Milan in_ 1478, folio. The text of
the poet is in a fine, round, and legible roman type--that of the
commentator, in a small and disagreeable gothic character.
_Petrarch_ shall follow. The rarest edition of him, which I have been able
to put my hand upon, is that printed at Bologna in 1476 with the commentary
of Franciscus Philelphus. Each sonnet is followed by its particular
comment. The type is a small roman, not very unlike the smallest of Ulric
Han, or Reisinger's usual type, and a full page-contains forty-one lines.
Of _Boccaccio_, here is nothing which I could observe particularly worthy
of description, save the very rare edition of the _Nimphale_ of 1477,
printed by _Bruno Valla of Piedmont_, and _Thomaso of Alexandria._ A full
page has thirty-two lines.
I shall conclude the account of the rarer books, which it was my chance to
examine in the Public Library of Stuttgart, with what ought perhaps, more
correctly, to have formed the earliest articles in this partial
catalogue:--I mean, the _Block Books_. Here is a remarkably beautiful, and
uncoloured copy of the first Latin edition of the _Speculum Humanae
Salvationis_. It _has_ been bound--although it be now unbound, and has been
unmercifully cut. As far as I can trust to my memory, the impressions of
the cuts in this copy are sharper and clearer than any which I have seen.
Of the _Apocalypse_, there is a copy of the second edition, wanting a leaf.
It is sound and clean, but coloured and cut. Unbound, but formerly bound.
Here is a late German edition of the _Ars Moriendi_, having thirty-four
lines on the first page. Of the _Historia Beatae Virginis_, here is a copy
of what I should consider to be the second Latin edition; precisely like a
German edition of the _Biblia Pauperum_, with the express date of
1470,--which is also here. The similarity is in the style of art and
character of the type, which latter has much of a _Bamberg_ cast about it.
But of the _Latin Biblia Pauperum_ here is a copy of the first edition,
very imperfect, and in wretched condition. And thus much, or rather thus
little, for _Block Books._
A word or two now for the MANUSCRIPTS--which, indeed, according to the
order usually observed in these Letters, should have preceded the
description of the printed books. I will begin with a _Psalter,_ in small
folio, which I should have almost the hardihood to pronounce of the
_tenth_--but certainly of the early part of the _eleventh_--century. The
text is executed in lower-case roman letters, large and round. It abounds
with illuminations, of about two inches in height, and six in
length--running horizontally, and embedded as it were in the text. The
figures are, therefore, necessarily small. Most of these illuminations,
have a greenish back-ground. The armour is generally in the Roman fashion:
the helmets being of a low conical form, and the shields having a large
knob in the centre.
Next comes an _Evangelistarium_ "seculo undecimo aut circa annum
1100:--pertinuit ad Monasterium Gengensbachense in Germania, ut legitur in
margine primi folii." The preceding memorandum is written at the beginning
of the volume, but the inscription to which it alludes has been partly
destroyed--owing to the tools of a modern book-binder. The scription of
this old MS. is in a thick, lower case, roman letter. The illuminations are
interesting: especially that of the Scribe, at the beginning, who is
represented in a white and delicately ornamented gown, or roquelaure, with
gold, red, and blue borders, and a broad black border at bottom. The robe
should seem to be a monastic garment: but the figure is probably that of
St. Jerom. It is standing before an opened book. The head is shaved at top;
an azure glory is round the head. The back-ground of the whole is gold,
with an arabesque border. I wish I could have spared time to make a
facsimile of it. There are also figures of the four Evangelists, in the
usual style of art of this period; the whole in fine preservation. The
capital initials are capricious, but tasteful. We observe birds, beasts,
dragons, &c. coiled up in a variety of whimsical forms. The L. at the
beginning of the "Liber Generationis," is, as usual in highly executed
works of art of this period, peculiarly elaborate and striking.
A _Psalter_, of probably a century later, next claims our attention. It is
a small folio, executed in a large, bold, gothic character. The
illuminations are entirely confined to the capital initials, which
represent some very grotesque, and yet picturesque grouping of animals and
human figures--all in a state of perfect preservation. The gold
back-grounds are not much raised, but of a beautiful lustre. It is
apparently imperfect at the end. The _binding_ merits distinct notice. In
the centre of one of the outside covers, is a figure of the Almighty,
sitting; in that of the other, are the Virgin and Infant Christ, also
sitting. Each subject is an illumination of the time of those in the volume
itself; and each is surrounded by pencil-coloured ornaments, divided into
squares, by pieces of tin, or lead soldered. A sheet of _horn_ is placed
over the whole of the exterior cover, to protect it from injury. This
binding is uncommon, but I should apprehend it to be not earlier than the
very commencement of the xvth century.
I have not yet travelled out of the twelfth century; and mean to give you
some account of rather a splendid and precious MS. entitled _Vitae
Sanctorum_--supposed to be of the same period. It is said to have been
executed under the auspices of the _Emperor Conrad,_ who was chosen in 1169
and died in 1193. It is an elegant folio volume. The illuminations are in
outline; in red, brown, or blue--firmly and truly touched, with very
fanciful inventions in the forms of the capital letters. The initial letter
prefixed to the account of the _Assumption of the Virgin_, is abundantly
clever and whimsical; while that prefixed to the Life of _St. Aurelius_ has
even an imposing air of magnificence, and is the most important in the
volume.
Here is a curious _History of the Bible, in German verse_, as I learn, by
Rudolph, Count of Hohen Embs. Whether "curious" or not, I cannot tell; but
I can affirm that, since opening the famous MS. of the Roman
d'Alexandre,[12] at Oxford, I have not met with a finer, or more genuine
MS. than the present. It is a noble folio volume; highly, although in many
places coarsely, adorned. The text is executed in a square, stiff, German
letter, in double columns; and the work was written (as M. Le Bret informed
me, and as warranted by the contents) "in obedience to the orders of the
Emperor Conrad, son of the Emperor Frederick II: the greater part of it
being composed after the chronicle of Geoffrey de Viterbe." To specify the
illuminations would be an endless task. At the end of the MS. are the
following colophonic verses:
_Uf den fridag was sts Brictius
Do nam diz buch ende alsus
Nach godis geburten dusint jar
Dar su ccc dni vnx achtzig als eyn har_.
the "_ccc_" are interlined, in red ink: but the whole inscription implies
that the book was finished in 1381, on Friday, the day of St. Brictius. It
follows therefore that it could not have been written during the life-time
of Conrad IV. who was elected Emperor in 1250. This interesting MS. is in a
most desirable condition.
There are two or three _Missals_ deserving only of brief notice. One, of
the XIVth century, is executed in large gothic letter; having an
exceedingly vivid and fresh illumination of a crucifixion, but in bad
taste, opposite the well-known passage of "Te igitur clementissime," &c. It
is bound in red satin. Two missals of the xvth century--of which one
presents only a few interesting prints connected with art. It is ornamented
in a sort of bistre outline, preparatory to colouring--of which numerous
examples may be seen in the Breviary of the Duke of Bedford in the Royal
Library at Paris.[13] I examined half a dozen more Missals, which the kind
activity of M. Le Bret had placed before me, and among them found nothing
deserving of particular observation,--except a thick, short, octavo volume,
in the German language, with characteristic and rather clever
embellishments; especially in the borders.
There is a folio volume entitled "_La Vie, Mort, et Miracles de St.
Jerome_." The first large illumination, which is prettily composed, is
unluckily much injured in some parts. It represents the author kneeling,
with his cap in his right hand, and a book bound in black, with gold clasps
and knobs, in the other. A lady appears to receive this presentation-volume
very graciously; but unfortunately her countenance is obliterated. Two
female attendants are behind her: the whole, gracefully composed. I take
this MS. to be of the end of the xvth. century. There is a most desirable
MS. of the _Roman de la Rose_--of the end of the xivth century; in double
columns; with some of the illuminations, about two inches square, very
sweet and interesting. That, on the recto of folio xiiij, is quite
charming. The "testament" of the author, J. de Meun, follows; quietly
decorated, within flowered borders. The last illumination but one, of our
Saviour, sitting upon a rainbow is very singular. This MS. is in its old
binding of wood.
A few _miscellaneous articles_ may be here briefly noticed. First: a German
metrical version of the Game of Chess, moralized, called _Der Schachzabel._
This is an extraordinary, and highly illuminated MS. upon paper; written in
a sort of secretary gothic hand, in short rhyming verse, as I conceive
about the year 1400, or 1450. The embellishments are large and droll, and
in several of them we distinguish that thick, and shining, but cracked coat
of paint which is upon the old print of St. Bridget, in Lord Spencer's
collection.[14] Among the more striking illuminations is the _Knight_ on
horseback, in silver armour, about nine inches high--a fine showy fellow!
His horse has silver plates over his head. Many of the pieces in the game
are represented in a highly interesting manner, and the whole is invaluable
to the antiquary. This MS. is in boards. Second: a German version of
_Maundeville_, of the date of 1471, with curious, large, and grotesque
illuminations, of the coarsest execution. It is written in double columns,
in a secretary gothic hand, upon paper. The heads of the Polypheme tribe
are ludicrously horrible. Third:--_Herren Duke of Brunswick_, or the
_Chevalier au Lion_,--a MS. relating to this hero, of the date of 1470. A
lion accompanies him every where. Among the embellishments, there is a good
one of this animal leaping upon a tomb and licking it--as containing the
mortal remains of his master. Fourth: a series of German stanzas, sung by
birds, each bird being represented, in outline, before the stanza
appropriated to it. In the whole, only three leaves.
The "last and not least" of the MSS. which I deem it worthy to mention, is
an highly illuminated one of _St. Austin upon the Psalms_. This was the
_first_ book which I remembered to have seen, upon the continent, from the
library of the famous _Corvinus King of Hungary,_ about which certain pages
have discoursed largely. It was also an absolutely beautiful book:
exhibiting one of the finest specimens of art of the latter end of the XVth
century. The commentary of the Saint begins on the recto of the second
leaf, within such a rich, lovely, and exquisitely executed border--as
almost made me forget the embellishments in the _Sforziada_ in the Royal
Library of France.[15] The border in question is a union of pearls and
arabesque ornaments quite standing out of the background ... which latter
has the effect of velvet. The arms, below, are within a double border of
pearls, each pair of pearls being within a gold circle upon an ultramarine
ground. The heads and figures have not escaped injury, but other portions
of this magical illumination have been rubbed or partly obliterated.
A ms. note, prefixed by M. Le Bret, informs us, in the opinion of its
writer, that this illumination was the work of one "_Actavantes de
Actavantibus of Florence_,--who lived towards the end of the XVth century,"
and who really seems to have done a great deal for Corvinus. The initial
letters, throughout this volume, delicately cross-barred in gold, with
little flowers and arabesques, &c. precisely resemble those in the MS. of
Mr. Hibbert.[16] Such a white, snowy page, as the one just in part
described, can scarcely be imagined by the uninitiated in ancient
illuminated MSS. The binding, in boards covered with leather, has the
original ornaments, of the time of Corvinus, which are now much faded. The
fore-edges of the leaves preserve their former gilt-stamped ornaments. Upon
the whole--an ALMOST MATCHLESS book!
Such, my good friend, are the treasures, both in MS. and in print, which a
couple of morning's application, in the Public Library of Stuttgart, have
enabled me to bring forward for your notice. A word or two, now, for the
treasures of the ROYAL LIBRARY, and then for a little respite. The Library
of his Majesty is in one of the side wings, or rather appurtenances, of the
Palace: to the right, on looking at the front. It is on the first
floor--where _all_ libraries should be placed--and consists of a circular
and a parallelogram-shaped room: divided by a screen of Ionic pillars. A
similar screen is also at the further end of the latter room. The circular
apartment has a very elegant appearance, and contains some beautiful books
chiefly of modern art. A round table is in the centre, covered with fine
cloth, and the sides and pillars of the screen are painted wholly in
white--as well as the room connected with it. A gallery goes along the
latter, or parallelogram-shaped apartment; and there are, in the centre,
two rows of book-cases, very tall, and completely filled with books. These,
as well as the book-cases along the sides, are painted white. An
elaborately painted ceiling, chiefly composed of human figures, forms the
graphic ornament of the long library; but, unluckily, the central
book-cases are so high as to cover a great portion of the painting--viewed
almost in any direction. At the further end of the long library, facing the
circular extremity, is a bust of the late King of Wuertemberg, by Dannecker.
It bears so strong a resemblance to that of our own venerable monarch, that
I had considered it to be a representation of him--out of compliment to the
Dowager Queen of Wuertemberg, his daughter. The ceiling of this Library is
undoubtedly too low for its length. But the circular extremity has
something in it exceedingly attractive, and inviting to study.
In noticing some of the contents of this Library, I shall correct the error
committed in the account of the Public Library, by commencing here with the
MANUSCRIPTS in preference to the Printed Books. The MSS. are by no means
numerous, and are perhaps rather curious than intrinsically valuable. I
shall begin with an account of a _Prayer-Book, or Psalter,_ in a quarto
form, undoubtedly of the latter end of the XIIth century. Its state of
preservation, both for illumination and scription, is quite exquisite. It
appears to have been expressly executed for Herman, and Sophia his wife,
King and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia--who lived at the latter end of the
twelfth century. The names of these royal patrons and owners of, the volume
are introduced at the end of the volume, in a sort of litany: accompanied
with embellishments of the Mother of Christ, Saints and Martyrs, &c.: as
thus: "_Sophia Regina Vngariae, Regina Bohemiae_"--"_Herman Lantgrauius
Turingie, Rex Vngariae, Rex Bohemiae_." In the Litany, we read (of the
_latter_) in the address to the Deity, "_Vt famulu tuu_ HERMANNV
_in tua misericordia confidente, confortare et regere dignter:_" so
that there is no doubt about the age of the MS. In the representations of
the episcopal dresses, the tops of the mitres are depressed--another
confirmation of the date of the book.
The initial letters, and especially the B before the Psalms, are at once
elegant and elaborate. Among the subjects described, the _Descent into
Hell_, or rather the Place of Torment, is singularly striking and
extraordinary. The text of the MS. is written in a large bold gothic
letter. This volume has been recently bound in red morocco, and cruelly cut
in the binding.
Of course, here are some specimens of illuminated _Hours_, both in
manuscript and print. In the former, I must make you acquainted with a
truly beautiful volume; upon the fly leaf of which we read as follows: "I 3
F, RT, lo _Fortitudo Eius Rhodum tenuit Amadeus Graff^{9} Sauoia_." Below,
"_Biblioth: Sem: Mergenth_:" then, a long German note, of which I
understood not one word, and as M. Le Bret was not near me, I could not
obtain the solution of it. But although I do not understand one word of
this note, I do understand that this is one of the very prettiest, and most
singularly illuminated Missals, which any library can possess: broad
margins: vellum, white as snow in colour, and soft as that of Venice in
touch! The text is written in a tall, close, gothic character--between, as
I should conceive, the years 1460 and 1480. The _drolleries_ are
delightfully introduced and executed. The initial letters are large and
singular; the subject being executed within compartments of gothic
architecture. The figures, of which these subjects are composed, are very
small; generally darkly shaded, and highly relieved. They are numerous. Of
these initial letters, the fifth to the ninth, inclusively, are striking:
the sixth being the most curious, and the ninth the most elaborate. The
binding of this volume seems to be of the sixteenth century. This is as it
should be.
But, more precious than either, or than both, or than three times as many
of the preceding illuminated volumes--in the estimation of our friend * * *
would be a MS. of which the title runs thus: "_Libri Duo de Vita_ S.
WILLIBROORDI _Archiepiscopi autore humili de vita_ ALCUINI _cum prefat. ad
Beonradum Archiepiscopum. Liber secundus metrice scriptus est_."[17] Then
an old inscription, thus: "_Althwinus de vita Willibrordi Epi_." There can
be no doubt of this MS. being at least as old as the eleventh century.
The PRINTED BOOKS--at least the account of such as seemed to demand a more
particular examination, will not occupy a very great share of your
attention. I will begin with a pretty little VELLUM COPY of the well-known
_Hortulus Animae_, of the date of 1498, in 12mo., printed by _Wilhelmus
Schaffener de Ropperswiler,_ at _Strasbourg_. The vellum is excellent; and
the wood cuts, rather plentifully sprinkled through the volume, happen
fortunately to be well-coloured. This copy appears to have come from the
"_Weingarth Monastery"_, with the date of 1617 upon it--as that of its
having been then purchased for the monastery. It is in its original wooden
binding: wanting repair. Here are a few _Roman Classics_, which are more
choice than those in the Public Library: as _Reisinger's Suetonius_, in
4to. but cropt, and half bound in red morocco, with yellow sprinkled edges
to the leaves--a woful specimen of the general style of binding in this
library. _Lucretius_, 1486: _Manilius_, 1474: both in one volume, bound in
wood--and sound and desirable copies. _Eutropius_, 1471; by Laver; a sound,
desirable copy, in genuine condition. Of _Bibles_, here is the Greek Aldine
folio of 1518, in frightful half binding, cropt to the quick: also an
Hungarian impression of the two Books of Samuel and of Kings, of 1565, in
folio--beginning: AZ KET SAMVEL: colophon: _Debreczenbe_, &c. MDLXV: in
wretched half binding. The small paper of the _Latin Bibles_ of 1592, 1603.
And of _Greek Testaments_ here are the first, second, fourth and fifth
editions of Erasmus; the first, containing both parts, is in one volume, in
original boards, or binding; a sound and clean copy: written upon, but not
in a _very_ unpicturesque manner. The second edition is but an indifferent
copy.
The following may be considered _Miscellaneous Articles._ I will begin with
the earliest. _St. Austin de Singularitate Clericorum_, printed in a small
quarto volume by _Ulric Zel_, in 1467: a good, sound, but cropt copy, along
with some opuscula of _Gerson_ and _Chrysostom_, also printed by Zel:
these, from the Schoenthal monastery. At the end of this dull collection of
old theology, are a few ms. opuscula, and among them one of the _Gesta
Romanorum:_ I should think of the fourteenth century. The _Wurtzburg
Synod_, supposed to be printed by Reyser, towards the end of the fifteenth
century; and of which there is a copy in the Public Library, as well as
another in that of Strasbourg. To the antiquary, this may be a curious
book. I mention it again,[18] in order to notice the name and seal of
"Iohannes Fabri,--clericus Maguntin diocesz publicus imperiali auctoritate
notarius, &c. Scriba iuratus"--which occur at about one fourth part of the
work: as I am desirous of knowing whether this man be the same, or related
to the, printer so called, who published the _Ethics of Cato_ in 1477?--of
which book I omitted to mention a copy in the Public Library here.[19]
Bound up with this volume is Fyner's edition of _P. Niger contra perfidos
Iudaeos_, 1475, folio. Fyner lived at Eislingen, in the neighbourhood of
this place, and it is natural to find specimens of his press here. The
_Stella Meschiah_ of 1477, is here cruelly cropt, and bound in the usually
barbarous manner, with a mustard-coloured sprinkling upon the edges of the
leaves. _Historie von der Melusina:_ a singular volume, in the German
language, printed without date, in a thin folio. It is a book perfectly _a
la_ Douce; full of whimsical and interesting wood cuts, which I do not
remember to have seen in any other ancient volume. From the conclusion of
the text, it appears to have been composed or finished in 1446, but I
suspect the date of its typographical execution to be that of 1480 at the
earliest.
I looked about sharply for fine, old, mellow-tinted _Alduses:_--but to no
purpose. Yet I must notice a pretty little Aldine _Petrarch_ of 1521, 12mo.
bound with _Sannazarius de partu Virginis_, by the same printer, in 1527,
12mo.: in old stamped binding--but somewhat cropt. The leaves of both
copies crackle lustily on turning them over. These, also, from the
Weingarth monastery. I noticed a beautiful little Petrarch of 1546, 8vo.
with the commentary of Velutellus; having a striking device of Neptune in
the frontispiece: but no _membranaceous_ articles, of this character and
period, came across my survey.
I cannot, however, take leave of the Royal Library (a collection which I
should think must contain 15,000 volumes) without expressing my obligations
for the unrestricted privilege of examination afforded me by those who had
the superintendance of it. But I begin to be wearied, and it is growing
late. The account of the "court-levee," and the winding up of other
Stuttgart matters, must be reserved for to-morrow. The watchman has just
commenced his rounds, by announcing, as usual, the hour of _ten_--which
announce is succeeded by a long (and as I learn _metrical_)
exhortation--for the good folks of Stuttgart to take care of their fires
and candles. I obey his injunctions; and say good night.
[1] See vol. ii. p. 421.
[2] [Of this PORTRAIT, which may be truly said to enrich the pages of the
previous edition of the Tour, a more _liberal_ use has been made
than I was prepared to grant. My worthy friends, Messrs. Treuttel,
Wuertz, and Richter were welcome to its republication; but a _third
edition_ of it, by another hand, ought not to have been published
without permission. The ORIGINAL of this Portrait has ceased to exist.
After a laborious life of fourscore years, the learned Schweighaeuser
has departed--in the fullest maturity of reputation arising from
classical attainments; to which must be added, all the excellences of
a mild, affable, christian-like disposition. As a husband, a father,
and a friend, none went before him: no one displayed these domestic
virtues in a more perfect and more pleasing form. As a Greek Scholar
and Commentator, he may be said to rank with Hemsterhusius,
Wyttenbach, and Heyne. He was equally the boast of Strasbourg and the
glory of his age. Never was profound learning more successfully united
with "singleness of heart," and general simplicity of character. He
ought to have a splendid monument (if he have it not already?) among
his Fellow Worthies in the church of St. Thomas at Strasbourg. PEACE
TO HIS ASHES!]
[3] For the first time, my bill (which I invariably called for, and
settled, every day) was presented to me in a printed form, in the
_black letter_, within an ornamented border. It was entitled
Rechnung von Gottlob Ernst Teichmann, zum Waldhorn in Stuttgart. The
printed articles, against which blanks are left, to be filled up
according to the quantity and quality of the fare, were these:
Fruhstuck, Mittag-Essen, Nacht Essen, Fremder Wein, Ordinarier Wein,
Verschiedenes, Logis, Feuerung, Bediente. I must be allowed to add,
that the head waiter of the Waldhorn, or _Hunting Horn_, was one
of the most respectably looking, and well-mannered, of his species. He
spoke French fluently, but with the usual German accent. The master of
the inn was coarse and bluff, but bustling and civil. He frequently
devoted one of the best rooms in his house to large, roaring, singing,
parties--in which he took a decided lead, and kept it up till past
midnight.
[4] [The late Duchess of OLDENBURG.]
[5] See vol. ii. p. 356.
[6] [This Public Library is now pulled down, and another erected on the
site of it.]
[7] In one of these copies is an undoubtedly coeval memorandum in red ink,
thus: "_Explicit liber iste Anno domini Millesio quadringentissimo
sexagesimosexto_ (1466) _format^{9} arte impssoria p venerabilem
viru Johane mentell in argentina_," &c. I should add, that,
previously to the words "_sexagesimosexto_" were those of
"_quiquagesimosexto_"--which have been erased by the pen of the
Scribe; but not so entirely as to be illegible. I am indebted to M. Le
Bret for the information that this Bible by Mentelin is more ancient
than the one, without date or place, &c. (see _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. i.
p. 42, &c.) which has been usually considered to be anterior to it. M.
Le Bret draws this conclusion from the comparative antiquity of the
language of Mentelin's edition.
[8] This was the _second_ copy, with the same original piece, which I
had seen abroad; that in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris being the
first. I have omitted to notice this, in my account of that Library,
vol. ii. p. 156-7, &c.
[9] [Both volumes will be found particularly described in the _AEdes
Althorpianae_, vol. ii. p. 285-290.]
[10] Lord Spencer has recently obtained a PERFECT COPY of this most rare
edition--by the purchase of the library of the Duke di Cassano, at
Naples. See the _Cassano Catalogue_, p. 116.
[11] A very particular description of this rare edition will be found in
the _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. ii. p. 141.
[12] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. cxcviii.
[13] See vol. ii. p. 73.
[14] See _Ottley's History of Engraving_, vol. i. p. 86; where a
fac-simile of this cut is given--which, in the large paper copies, is
coloured.
[15] See vol. ii. p. 134-5.
[16] The SFORZIADA: See the Catalogue of his Library, no. 7559.
[17] The prologue of this metrical life begins thus:
_Ecce tuis parui uotis uenerande sacerdos
Cor quia de vro feruet amore mihi
Pontificis magna wilbroodi et psulis almus
Recurrens titulis inclyta gesta tuis
Sit lux inferior strepitant cum murmure rauco
illius egregi^{9} sermo meus meritis_
This life consists of only 11 leaves, having 23 verses in a full page.
It is printed in the _Lect. Antiq. of Canisius_, vol. ii. p. 463;
and the prose life is printed by _Surius_ and by _Mabillon_.
[18] Before described in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. IV. p. 508.
[19] The book in question has the following colophon:
_Hoc opus exiguum perfecit rite iohannes
Fabri: cui seruat lingonis alta lares.
Ac uoluit formis ipsum fecisse casellis.
M.cccc.lxxcii de mense maii_.
The _s_ is very singular, being smaller than the other letters,
and having a broken effect. This copy, in the Public Library at
Stuttgart, is not bound, but in excellent condition.
LETTER II.
THE ROYAL PALACE. A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NEGOTIATION. DANNECKER THE SCULPTOR.
ENVIRONS OF STUTTGART.
The morrow is come; and as the morning is too rainy to stir abroad, I sit
down to fulfil the promise of last night. This will be done with the
greater cheerfulness and alacrity, as the evenings have been comparatively
cooler, and my slumbers, in consequence, more sound and refreshing. M. LE
BRET--must be the first name mentioned upon this occasion. In other words,
the negotiation about the _two Virgils_, through the zeal and good
management of that active Head-Librarian, began quickly to assume a most
decided form; and I received an intimation from Mr. Hamilton, our Charge
d'Affaires, that the King expected to see me upon the subject at the
"circle"--last Sunday evening.
But before you go with me to court, I must make you acquainted with the
place in which the Court is held: in other words, with the ROYAL PALACE of
STUTTGART. Take away the gilt cushion and crown at the top of it, and the
front facade has really the air of a royal residence. It is built of stone:
massive and unpretending in its external decorations, and has two wings
running at right angles with the principal front elevation. To my eye, it
had, at first view, and still continues to have, more of a Palace-like look
than the long but slender structure of the Tuilleries. To the left, on
looking at it--or rather behind the left wing is a large, well-trimmed
flower-garden, terminating in walks, and a carriage way. Just in front of
this garden, before a large bason of water, and fixed upon a sort of
parapet wall--is a very pleasing, colossal group of two female
statues--_Pomona_ and _Flora_, as I conceive--sculptured by Dannecker.
Their forms are made to intertwine very gracefully; and they are cut in a
coarse, but hard and pleasingly-tinted, stone. For out-of-door figures,
they are much superior to the generality of unmeaning allegorical marble
statues in the gardens of the Thuilleries.
The interior of the palace has portions, which may be said to verify what
we have read, in boyish days, of the wonder-working powers of the lamp of
Aladdin. Here are porphyry and granite, and rosewood, and satin-wood,
porcelaine, and or-molu ornaments, in all their varieties of unsullied
splendor. A magnificent vestibule, and marble staircase; a concert room; an
assembly-room; and chamber of audience: each particularly brilliant and
appropriate; while, in the latter, you observe a throne, or chair of state,
of antique form, but entirely covered with curious gilt carvings--rich,
without being gaudy--and striking without being misplaced. You pass
on--room after room--from the ceilings of which, lustres of increasing
brilliance depend; but are not disposed to make any halt till you enter a
small apartment with a cupola roof--within a niche of which stands the
small statue of _Cupid_; with his head inclined, and one hand raised to
feel the supposed-blunted point of a dart which he holds in the other. This
is called the Cupid-Room, out of compliment to DANNECKER the sculptor of
the figure, who is much patronised by the Queen. A statue or two by Canova,
with a tolerable portion of Gobeleine tapestry, form the principal
remaining moveable pieces of furniture. A minuter description may not be
necessary: the interiors of all palaces being pretty much alike--if we put
pictures and statues out of the question.
From the Palace, I must now conduct you to the "circle" or Drawing
Room--which I attended. Mr. Hamilton was so obliging as to convey me
thither. The King paid his respects personally to each lady, and was
followed by the Queen. The same order was observed with the circle of
gentlemen. His Majesty was dressed in what seemed to be an English uniform,
and wore the star of the Order of the Bath. His figure is perhaps under the
middle size, but compact, well formed, and having a gentlemanly deportment.
The Queen was, questionless, the most interesting female in the circle. To
an Englishman, her long and popular residence in England, rendered her
doubly an object of attraction. She was superbly dressed, and yet the whole
had a simple, lady-like, appearance. She wore a magnificent tiara of
diamonds, and large circular diamond ear rings: but it was her _necklace_,
composed of the largest and choicest of the same kind of precious stones,
which flashed a radiance on the eyes of the beholder, that could scarcely
be exceeded even in the court-circles of St. Petersburg. Her hair was
quietly and most becomingly dressed; and with a small white fan in her
hand, which she occasionally opened and shut, she saluted, and discoursed
with, each visitor, as gracefully and as naturally as if she had been
accustomed to the ceremony from her earliest youth. Her dark eyes surveyed
each figure, quickly, from head to foot--while ...
"_Favours_ to none, to all she _smiles_ extends."
Among the gentlemen, I observed a young man of a very prepossessing form
and manners--having seven orders, or marks of distinction hanging from his
button-holes. Every body seemed anxious to exchange a word with him; and he
might be at farthest in his thirtieth year. I could not learn his name, but
I learnt that his _character_ was quite in harmony with his _person_: that
he was gay, brave, courteous and polite: that his courage knew no bounds:
that he would storm a citadel, traverse a morass, or lead on to a charge,
with equal coolness, courage, and intrepidity: that repose and inaction
were painful to him--but that humanity to the unfortunate, and the most
inflexible attachment to relations and friends, formed, equally,
distinctive marks of his character. This intelligence quite won my heart in
favour of the stranger, then standing and smiling immediately before me;
and I rejoiced that the chivalrous race of the _Peterboroughs_ was not yet
extinct, but had taken root, and "borne branch and flower," in the soil of
Suabia.
When it came to my turn to be addressed, the king at once asked--"if I had
not been much gratified with the books in the Public Library, and
particularly with two _ancient editions_ of Virgil?" I merely indicated an
assent to the truth of this remark, waiting for the conclusion to be drawn
from the premises. "There has been some mention made to me (resumed his
Majesty) about a proposed exchange on the part of Lord Spencer, for these
two ancient editions, which appear to be wanting in his Lordship's
magnificent collection. For my part, I see no objection to the final
arrangement of this business--if it can be settled upon terms satisfactory
to all parties." This was the very point to which I was so anxious to bring
the conference. I replied, coolly and unhesitatingly, "that it was
precisely as his Majesty had observed; that his own Collection was strong
in _Bibles_, but comparatively weak in Ancient _Classics_: and that a
diminution of the _latter_ would not be of material consequence, if, in
lieu of it, there could be an increase of the _former_--so as to carry it
well nigh towards perfection; that, in whatever way this exchange was
effected, whether by money, or by books, in the first instance, it would
doubtless be his Majesty's desire to direct the application of the one or
the other to the completion of his _Theological Collection_."
The King replied "he saw no objection whatever to the proposed
exchange--and left the forms of carrying it into execution with his head
librarian M. Le Bret." Having gained my point, it only remained to make my
bow. The King then passed on to the remainder of the circle, and was
quickly followed by the Queen. I heard her Majesty distinctly tell General
Allan,[20] in the English language, that "she could never forget her
reception in England; that the days spent there were among the happiest of
her life, and that she hoped, before she died, again to visit our country."
She even expressed "gratitude for the cordial manner in which she had been
received, and, entertained in it."[21]
The heat had now become almost insupportable; as, for the reason before
assigned, every window and door was shut. However, this inconvenience, if
it was severe, was luckily of short duration. A little after nine, their
Majesties retired towards the door by which they had entered: and which, as
it was reopened, presented, in the background, the attendants waiting to
receive them. The King and Queen then saluted the circle, and retired. In
ten minutes we had all retreated, and were breathing the pure air of
heaven. I preferred walking home, and called upon M. Le Bret in my way. It
was about half past nine only, but that philosophical bibliographer was
about retiring to rest. He received me, however, with a joyous welcome:
re-trimmed his lamp; complimented me upon the success of the negotiation,
and told me that I might now depart in peace from Stuttgart--for that "the
affair might be considered as settled."[22]
I have mentioned to you, more than once, the name of DANNECKER the
sculptor. It has been my good fortune to visit him, and to converse with
him much at large, several times. He is one of the most unaffected of the
living Phidias-tribe; resembling much, both in figure and conversation, and
more especially in a pleasing simplicity of manners, our celebrated
_Chantry_. Indeed I should call Dannecker, on the score of art as well as
of person, rather the Chantry than the _Flaxman_ or _Canova_ of Suabia. He
shewed me every part of his study; and every cast of such originals as he
had executed, or which he had it in contemplation to execute. Of those that
had left him, I was compelled to be satisfied with the plaster of his
famous ARIADNE, reclining upon the back of a passant leopard, each of the
size of life. The original belongs to a banker at Frankfort, for whom it
was executed for the sum of about one thousand pounds sterling. It must be
an exquisite production; for if the _plaster_ be thus interesting what must
be the effect of the _marble_? Dannecker told me that the most difficult
parts of the group, as to detail, were the interior of the leopard's feet,
and the foot and retired drapery of the female figure--which has one leg
tucked under the other. The whole composition has an harmonious, joyous
effect; while health, animation, and beauty breathe in every limb and
lineament of Ariadne.
But it was my good fortune to witness _one_ original of Dannecker's
chisel--of transcendent merit. I mean, the colossal head of SCHILLER; who
was the intimate friend, and a townsman of this able sculptor. I never
stood before so expressive a modern countenance. The forehead is high and
wide, and the projections, over the eye-brows, are boldly, but finely and
gradually, marked. The eye is rather full, but retired. The cheeks are
considerably shrunk. The mouth is full of expression, and the chin somewhat
elongated. The hair flows behind in a broad mass, and ends in a wavy curl
upon the shoulders: not very unlike the professional wigs of the French
barristers which I had seen at Paris. Upon the whole, I prefer this
latter--for breadth and harmony--to the eternal conceit of the wig a la
grecque. "It was so (said Dannecker) that Schiller wore his hair; and it
was precisely with this physiognomical expression that he came out to me,
dressed en roquelaure, from his inner apartment, when I saw him for the
last time. I thought to myself--on so seeing him--(added the sculptor) that
it is thus that I will chisel your bust in marble." Dannecker then
requested me to draw my hand gently over the forehead--and to observe by
what careful, and almost imperceptible gradations, this boldness of front
had been accomplished; I listened to every word that he said about the
extraordinary character then, as it were, before me, with an earnestness
and pleasure which I can hardly describe; and walked round and round the
bust with a gratification approaching to ecstacy. They may say what they
please--at Rome or at London--but a _finer_ specimen of art, in its very
highest department, and of its particular kind, the chisel of _no living_
Sculptor hath achieved. As a bust, it is perfect. It is the MAN; with all
his MIND in his countenance; without the introduction of any sickly airs
and graces, which are frequently the result of a predetermination to treat
it--as _Phidias_ or _Praxiteles_ would have treated it! It is worth a host
of such figures as that of Marshal Saxe at Strasbourg.
"Would any sum induce you to part with it?"--said I, in an under tone, to
the unsuspecting artist ... bethinking me, at the same time, of offering
somewhere about 250 louis d'or--"None:" replied Dannecker. "I loved the
original too dearly to part with this copy of his countenance, in which I
have done my utmost to render it worthy of my incomparable friend." I think
the artist said that the Queen had expressed a wish to possess it; but he
was compelled to adhere religiously to his determination of keeping it for
himself. Dannecker shewed me a plaster cast of his intended figure of
CHRIST. It struck me as being of great simplicity of breadth, and majesty
of expression; but perhaps the form wanted fulness--and the drapery might
be a little too sparing. I then saw several other busts, and subjects,
which have already escaped my recollection; but I could not but be struck
with the quiet and unaffected manner in which this meritorious artist
mentioned the approbation bestowed by CANOVA upon several of his
performances. He is very much superior indeed to Ohmacht; but comparisons
have long been considered as uncourteous and invidious--and so I will only
add, that, if ever Dannecker visits England--which he half threatens to
do--he shall be feted by a Commoner, and patronised by a Duke. Meanwhile,
you have here his Autograph for contemplation.
[Illustration: Autograph of Dannecker]
[20] Afterwards Sir Alexander Allan, Bart. I met him and Captain C * * *,
of the Royal Navy, in their way to Inspruck. But Sir Alexander (than
whom, I believe a worthier or a braver man never entered the
profession of which he was so distinguished an ornament) scarcely
survived the excursion two years.
[21] The Queen of Wuertemberg survived the levee, above described, only a
few months. Her DEATH was in consequence of over-maternal anxiety
about her children, who were ill with the measles. The queen was
suddenly called from her bed on a cold night in the month of January
to the chamber where her children were seriously indisposed. Forgetful
of herself, of the hour, and of the season, she caught a severe cold:
a violent erysipelatous affection, terminating in apoplexy, was the
fatal result--and SHE, who, but a few short-lived months before, had
shone as the brightest star in the hemisphere of her own court;--who
was the patroness of art;--and of two or three national schools,
building, when I was at Stuttgart, at her own expense--was doomed to
become the subject of general lamentation and woe. She was admired,
respected, and beloved. It was pleasing, as it was quite natural, to
see her (as I had often done) and the King, riding out in the same
carriage, or phaeton, without any royal guard; and all ranks of people
heartily disposed to pay them the homage of their respect. In a letter
from M. Le Bret, of the 8th of June 1819, I learnt that a magnificent
chapel, built after the Grecian model, was to contain the monument to
be erected to her memory. Her funeral was attended by six hundred
students from Tubingen, by torch light.
[22] For the sake of juxta-position, I will here mention the SEQUEL, as
briefly as may be. The "affair" was far from being at that time
"settled." But, on reaching Manheim, about to recross the Rhine, on my
return to Paris--I found a long and circumstantial letter from my
bibliographical correspondent at Stuttgart, which seemed to bring the
matter to a final and desirable issue. "So many thousand francs had
been agreed upon--there only wanted a well bound copy of the
_Bibliographical Decameron_ to boot:--and the Virgils were to be
considered as his Lordship's property." Mr. Hamilton, our Charge
d'Affaires, had authority to pay the money--and I ... walked instantly
to _Artaria's_--purchased a copy of the work in question, (which
happened to be there, in blue morocco binding,) and desired my valet
to get ready to start the next morning, by three or four o'clock, to
travel post to Stuttgart: from whence he was not to return
_without_ bringing the VIRGILS, in the same carriage which would
convey him and the Decameronic volumes. Charles Rohfritsch immediately
prepared to set out on his journey. He left Manheim at three in the
morning; travelled without intermission to Stuttgart,--perhaps
fourscore or ninety miles from Manheim--put up at his old quarters
_zum Waldhorn_ (see p. 17, ante.) waited upon M. Le Bret with a
letter, and the morocco tomes--RECEIVED THE VIRGILS--and prepared for
his return to Manheim--which place he reached by two on the following
morning. I had told him that, at whatever hour he arrived, he was to
make his way to my chamber. He did as he was desired. "LES
VOILA!"--exclaimed he, on placing the two volumes hastily upon the
table.--"Ma foi, Monsieur, c'est ceci une drole d'affaire; il y a je
ne scai pas combien de lieues que j'ai traverse pour deux anciens
livres qui ne valent pas a mes yeux le tiers d'un Napoleon!" I readily
forgave him all this saucy heresy--and almost hugged the volumes ...
on finding them upon my table. They were my constant travelling
companions through France to Calais; and when I shewed the _Adam
Virgil_ to M. Van Praet, at Paris--"Enfin (remarked he, as he turned
over the broad-margined and loud-crackling leaves) voila un livre dont
j'ai beaucoup entendu parler, mais que je n'ai jamais vu!" These words
sounded as sweet melody to mine ears. But I will unfeignedly declare,
that the joy which crowned the whole, was, when I delivered _both_ the
books ... into the hands of their present NOBLE OWNER: with whom they
will doubtless find their FINAL RESTING PLACE. [Such was my
bibliographical history--eleven years ago. Since that period NO copy
of EITHER edition has found its way into England. "Terque quaterque
beatus!"]
LETTER III.
DEPARTURE FROM STUTTGART. ULM. AUGSBOURG. THE PICTURE GALLERY AT AUGSBOURG.
_Augsbourg, Hotel des Trois Negres, Aug. 9, 1818._
MY DEAR FRIEND;
I have indeed been an active, as well as fortunate traveller, since I last
addressed you; and I sit down to compose rather a long despatch, which,
upon the whole, will be probably interesting; and which, moreover, is
penned in one of the noblest hotels in Europe. The more I see of Germany,
the more I like it. Behold me, then in _Bavaria_; within one of its most
beautiful cities, and looking, from my window, upon a street called
_Maximilian Street_--which, for picturesque beauty, is exceeded only by the
High-street at Oxford. A noble fountain of bronze figures in the centre of
it, is sending forth its clear and agitated waters into the air--only to
fall, in pellucid drops, into a basin of capacious dimensions: again to be
carried upwards, and again to descend. 'Tis a magnificent fountain; and I
wish such an one were in the centre of the street above mentioned, or in
that of Waterloo Place. But to proceed with my Journal from Stuttgart.
I left that capital of the kingdom of Wuertemberg about five in the
afternoon, accompanied by my excellent friend M. Le Bret, who took a seat
in the carriage as far as the boundaries of the city.[23] His dry drollery,
and frankness of communication, made me regret that he could not accompany
us--at least as far as the first stage _Plochingen_;--especially as the
weather was beautiful, and the road excellent. However, the novelty of each
surrounding object--(but shall ... I whisper a secret in your ear?--the
probably successful result of the negotiation about the two ancient
editions of Virgil--yet more than each surrounding object) put me in
perfect good humour, as we continued to roll pleasantly on towards our
resting-place for the night--either _Goeppingen_, or _Geislingen_,--as time
and inclination might serve. The sky was in a fine crimson glow with the
approaching sun-set, which was reflected by a river of clear water, skirted
in parts by poplar and birch, as we changed horses at _Plochingen_. It was,
I think, _that_ town, rather than Goeppingen, (the next stage) which struck
us, en passant, to be singularly curious and picturesque on the score of
antiquity and street scenery. It was with reluctance that I passed through
it in so rapid a manner: but necessity alone was the excuse.
We slept, and slept comfortably, at _Goeppingen_. From thence to
_Geislingen_ are sweet views: in part luxuriant and cultivated, and in part
bold and romantic. Here, were the humble and neatly-trimmed huts of
cottagers; there, the lofty and castle-crowned domains of the Baron. It was
all pleasing and heart-cheering; while the sky continued in one soft and
silvery tint from the unusual transparency of the day. On entering
_Geislingen_, our attention was quickly directed to other, and somewhat
extraordinary, objects. In this town, there is a great manufactory of
articles in _ivory_; and we had hardly stopped to change horses--in other
words, the postilion had not yet dismounted--ere we were assailed by some
half dozen ill-clad females, who crawled up the carriage, in all
directions, with baskets of ivory toys in their hands, saluting us with
loud screams and tones--which, of course, we understood to mean that their
baskets might be lightened of their contents. Our valet here became the
principal medium of explanation. Charles Rohfritsch raised himself up from
his seat; extended, his hands, elevated his voice, stamped, seized upon
one, and caught hold of another, assailant at the same time--threatening
them with the vengeance of the police if they did not instantly desist from
their rude assaults. It was indeed high time to be absolute; for Mr. Lewis
was surrounded by two, and I was myself honoured by a visit of three, of
this gipsy tribe of ivory-venders: who had crawled over the dicky, and up
the hinder wheels, into the body of the carriage.
There seemed to be no alternative but to purchase _something_. We took two
or three boxes, containing crucifixes, toothpicks, and apple-scoops; and
set the best face we could upon this strange adventure. Meanwhile, fresh
horses were put to; and the valet joked with the ivory venders--having
desired the postilion, (as he afterwards informed me) as soon as he was
mounted, to make some bold flourishes with his whip, to stick his spurs
into the sides of his horses, and disentangle himself from the surrounding
female throng as speedily as he could. The postilion did as he was
commanded: and we darted off at almost a full gallop. A steep hill was
before us, but the horses continued to keep their first pace, till a touch
of humanity made our charioteer relax from his efforts. We had now left the
town of Geislingen behind us, but yet saw the ivory venders pointing
towards the route we had taken. "This has been a strange piece of business
indeed, Sir," (observed the valet). "These women are a set of mad-caps; but
they are nevertheless women of character. They always act thus: especially
when they see that the visitors are English--for they are vastly fond of
your countrymen!"
We were now within about twenty English miles of ULM. Nothing particular
occurred, either by way of anecdote or of scenery, till within almost the
immediate approach, or descent to that city--the last in the Suabian
territories, and which is separated from Bavaria by the river Danube. I
caught the first glance of that celebrated river (here of comparatively
trifling width) with no ordinary emotions of delight. It recalled to my
memory the battle of _Blenheim_, or of _Hochstedt_; for you know that it
was across this very river, and scarcely a score of miles from Ulm, that
the victorious MARLBOROUGH chased the flying French and Bavarians--at the
battle just mentioned. At the same moment, almost, I could not fail to
contrast this glorious issue with the miserable surrender of the town
before me--then filled by a large and well-disciplined army, and commanded
by that non-pareil of generals, J.G. MACK!--into the power of Bonaparte...
almost without pulling a trigger on either side--the place itself being
considered, at the time, one of the strongest towns in Europe. These
things, I say, rushed upon my memory, when, on the immediate descent into
Ulm, I caught the first view of the tower of the MINSTER ... which quickly
put Marlborough, and Mack, and Bonaparte out of my recollection.
I had never, since quitting the beach at Brighton, beheld such an
_English-like_ looking cathedral--as a whole; and particularly the tower.
It is broad, bold, and lofty; but, like all edifices, seen from a
neighbouring and perhaps loftier height, it loses, at first view, very much
of the loftiness of its character. However, I looked with admiration, and
longed to approach it. This object was accomplished in twenty minutes. We
entered Ulm about two o'clock: drove to an excellent inn (the _White
Stag_--which I strongly recommend to all fellow-travellers) and ordered our
dinner to be got ready by five; which, as the house was within a stone's
cast of the cathedral, gave us every opportunity of visiting it before
hand. The day continued most beautiful: and we sallied forth in high
spirits, to gaze at and to admire every object of antiquity which should
present itself.
You may remember my mentioning, towards the close of my last despatch, that
a letter was lying upon the table, directed to one of the Professors of the
University, or _gymnase_, of this place. The name of that Professor was
VEESENMEYER; a very respectable, learned, and kind-hearted gentleman. I
sought his house (close to the cathedral) the very first thing on quitting
the hotel. The Professor was at home. On receiving my letter, by the hands
of a pretty little girl, one of his daughters, M. Veesenmeyer made his
appearance at the top of a short stair case, arrayed in a sort of woollen,
quilted jacket, with a green cloth cap on, and a pipe in his mouth--which
latter seemed to be full as tall as himself. I should think that the
Professor could not be taller than his pipe, which might be somewhere about
five feet in length. His figure had an exceedingly droll appearance. His
mode of pronouncing French was somewhat germanized; but I strained every
nerve to understand him, as my valet was not with me, and as there would
have been no alternative but to have talked Latin. I was desirous of seeing
the library, attached to the cathedral. "Could the Professor facilitate
that object?" "Most willingly--" was his reply--"I will write a note to * *
the librarian: carry it to him, and he will shew you the library directly,
if he be at home." I did as he desired me; but found the number of the
house very difficult to discover--as the houses are numbered,
consecutively, throughout the town--down one street and up another: so
that, without knowing the order of the _streets_ through which the numbers
run, it is hardly possible for a stranger to proceed.
Having sauntered round and round, and returned almost to the very spot
whence I had set out, I at last found the residence of the librarian.--On
being admitted, I was introduced to a tall, sharp-visaged, and
melancholy-complexioned gentleman, who seemed to rise six feet from the
ground on receiving me. He read the Professor's note: but alas! could not
speak one word of French. "Placetne tibi, Domine, sermone latino uti?" I
answered in the affirmative; but confessed that I was totally out of the
habit of speaking it in England: and besides, that our _mode of
pronunciation_ was very different from that of other countries. The man of
dark vestments and sombre countenance relaxed into a gentle smile, as I
added the latter part of this remark: and I accompanied him quickly, but
silently, to the library in question. Its situation is surely among the
most whimsical in existence. It is placed up one pair of stairs, to the
left of the choir; and you ascend up to it through a gloomy and narrow
stone staircase. If I remember rightly, the outward door, connecting with
the stairs, is in the cathedral yard. The library itself is very small; and
a print, being a portrait of its Donor, hangs up against the
shelves--facing as you enter. I had never seen this print before. It was an
interesting portrait; and had, I think, a date of somewhere about 1584. The
collection was chiefly theological; yet there were a few old classics, but
of very secondary value. The only book that I absolutely coveted, was a
folio, somewhat charged with writing in the margins, of which the title and
colophon are as follow:--for I obtained permission to make a memorandum of
them. "Gutheri Ligurini Poetae clarissimi diui Frid. pri Dece libri
foeliciter editi: _impssi per industriu & ingeniosu Magistru
Erhardu Oeglin ciuem augustesem Ano Sesquimillesimo & septimo
mese Apprilio_" This edition contains M vj, in sixes. The preceding
article is followed by six leaves, containing supplemental matter.
I asked my sable attendant, if this book could be parted with--either for
money, or in exchange for other books? he replied, "that that point must be
submitted to the consideration of a chapter: that the library was rarely or
never visited; but that he considered it would not be proper to disturb its
order, or to destroy its identity, since it was a _sacred legacy_." I told
him that he reasoned well; but that, should the chapter change such a
resolution, my address would be found at Vienna, poste restante, till the
20th of the following month. We parted in terms of formal politeness; being
now and then a little checked in my discourse, by the reply, on his part,
of "Non prorsus intelligo." I am glad, however, to have seen this secluded
cabinet of books; which would have been the very place for the study of
Anthony Wood or Thomas Hearne. It had quite an air of monastic seclusion,
and it seemed as if scarcely six persons had trod the floor, or six volumes
had been taken down from the shelves, since the day when the key was first
turned upon the door which encloses the collection. After a few "_salves_,"
and one "_vale_," I returned to the White Stag.
The CATHEDRAL of ULM is doubtless among the most respectable of those upon
the continent. It is large and wide, and of a massive and imposing style of
architecture. The buttresses are bold, and very much after the English
fashion. The tower is the chief exterior beauty. Before we mounted it, we
begged the guide, who attended us, to conduct us all over the interior.
This interior is very noble: and even superior, as a piece of architecture,
to that of Strasbourg. I should think it even longer and wider--for the
truth is, that the tower of _Strasbourg_ Cathedral is as much too _tall_,
as that of _Ulm_ cathedral is too _short_, for its nave and choir. Not very
long ago, they had covered the interior by a white wash; and thus the
mellow tint of probably about five centuries--in a spot where there are few
immediately surrounding houses--and in a town of which the manufactories
and population are comparatively small--the _latter_ about 14,000--thus, I
say, the mellow tint of these five centuries (for I suppose the cathedral
to have been finished about the year 1320) has been cruelly changed for the
staring and chilling effects of whiting.
The choir is interesting in a high degree. At the extremity of it, is an
altar--indicative of the Lutheran form of worship[24] being carried on
within the church--upon which are oil paintings upon wood, emblazoned with
gilt backgrounds--of the time of _Hans Burgmair_, and of others at the
revival of the art of painting in Germany. These pictures turn upon hinges,
so as to shut up, or be thrown open; and are in the highest state of
preservation. Their subjects are entirely scriptural; and perhaps old _John
Holbein_, the father of the famous Hans Holbein, might have had a share in
some of them. Perhaps they may come down to the time of _Lucas Cranach_.
Whenever, or by whomsoever executed, this series of paintings, upon the
high altar of the cathedral of Ulm, cannot be viewed without considerable
satisfaction. They were the first choice specimens of early art which I had
seen on this side of the Rhine; and I of course contemplated them with the
hungry eye of an antiquary.
After a careful survey of the interior, the whole of which had quite the
air of English cleanliness and order, we prepared to mount the famous
tower. Our valet, Rohfritsch, led the way; counting the steps as he
mounted, and finding them to be about three hundred and seventy-eight in
number. He was succeeded by the guide. Mr. Lewis and myself followed in a
more leisurely manner; peeping through the interstices which presented
themselves in the open fretwork of the ornaments, and finding, as we
continued to ascend, that the inhabitants and dwelling houses of Ulm
diminished gradually in size. At length we gained the summit, which is
surrounded by a parapet wall of some three or four feet in height. We
paused a minute, to recover our breath, and to look at the prospect which
surrounded us. The town, at our feet, looked like the metropolis of Laputa.
Yet the high ground, by which we had descended into the town--and upon
which Bonaparte's army was formerly encamped--seemed to be more lofty than
the spot whereon we stood. On the opposite side flowed the _Danube_: not
broad, nor, as I learnt very deep; but rapid, and in a serpentine
direction. The river here begins to be navigable for larger boats; but
there is little appearance of bustle or business upon the quays. Few or no
white sails, floating down the stream, catch the morning or the evening
sun-beam: no grove of masts: no shouts of mariners: no commercial rivalry.
But what then? Close to the very spot where we stood, our attention was
directed to a circumstance infinitely more interesting, to the whimsical
fancy of an Antiquary, than a whole forest of masts. What might this be?
Listen.
"Do you observe, here, gentlemen?" said the guide--pointing to the coping
of the parapet wall, where the stone is a little rubbed, "I do"--(replied
I) "What may this mean?" "Look below, Sir, (resumed he) how fearfully deep
it is. You would not like to tumble down from hence?" This remark could
admit but of one answer--in the _negative_; yet the man seemed to be
preparing himself to announce some marvellous fact, and I continued mute.
"Mark well, gentlemen; (continued he) it was here, on this identical spot,
that our famous EMPEROR MAXIMILIAN stood upon one leg, and turned himself
quite round, to the astonishment and trepidation of his attendants! He was
a man of great bravery, and this was one of his pranks to shew his courage.
This story, gentlemen, has descended to us for three centuries; and not
long ago the example of the Emperor was attempted to be imitated by two
officers,--one of whom failed, and the other succeeded. The first lost his
balance, and was precipitated to the earth--dying the very instant he
touched the ground; the second succeeded, and declared himself, in
consequence, MAXIMILIAN the SECOND!" I should tell you, however, that these
attempts were not made on the same day. The officers were Austrian.
The room in the middle of the platform, and surmounted by a small spire
does not appear to be used for any particular purpose. Having satisfied our
curiosity, and in particular stretched our eyes "as far (to borrow Caxton's
language) as we well might"--in the direction of _Hochstedt_--we descended,
extremely gratified; and sought the hotel and our dinner. Upon the whole,
the cathedral of Ulm is a noble ecclesiastical edifice: uniting simplicity
and purity with massiveness of composition. Few cathedrals are more uniform
in the style of their architecture. It seems to be, to borrow technical
language, all of a piece. Near it, forming the foreground of the Munich
print, are a chapel and a house surrounded by trees. The chapel is very
small, and, as I learnt, not used for religious purposes. The house (so
Professor Veesenmeyer informed me) is supposed to have been the residence
and offices of business of JOHN ZEINER, the well known _printer_, who
commenced his typographical labours about the year 1470,[25] and who
uniformly printed at Ulm; while his brother GUNTHER as uniformly exercised
his art in the city whence I am now addressing you. They were both natives
of _Reutlingen_; a town of some note between Tubingen and Ulm.
Let no man, from henceforth, assert that all culinary refinement ceases
when you cross the Rhine; at least, let him not do so till he has tasted
the raspberry-flavoured soufflet of the _White Stag of Ulm_. It came on the
table like unto a mountain of cream and eggs, spreading its extremities to
the very confines of the dish; but, when touched by the magic-working
spoon, it collapsed, and concentrated into a dish of moderate and seemly
dimensions. In other words, this very soufflet--considered by some as the
_crux_ of refined cookery--was an exemplification of all the essential
requisites of the culinary art: but without the _cotelette_, it would not
have satisfied appetites which had been sharpened by the air of the summit
of the tower of the cathedral. The inn itself is both comfortable and
spacious. We dined at one corner of a ball-room, upon the first floor,
looking upon a very pleasant garden. After dinner, I hastened to pay my
respects to Professor Veesenmeyer, according to appointment. I found him,
where all Professors rejoice to be found, in the centre of his library. He
had doffed the first dress in which I had seen him; and the long pipe was
reposing horizontally upon a table covered with green baize. We began a
bibliographical conversation immediately; and he shewed me, with the
exultation of a man who is conscious of possessing treasures for which few,
comparatively, have any relish--his _early printed_ volumes, upon the lower
shelf of his collection.
Evening was coming on, and the daylight began to be treacherous for a
critical examination into the condition of old volumes. The Professor told
me he would send me a note, the next morning, of what further he possessed
in the department of early printing,[26] and begged, in the mean time, that
he might take a walk with me in the town. I accepted his friendly offer
willingly, and we strolled about together. There is nothing very
interesting, on the score of antiquities, except it be the _Rath Haus_, or
Town Hall; of which the greater part may be, within a century, as old as
the Cathedral.[27]
On the following morning I left Ulm, well pleased to have visited the city;
and, had the time allowed, much disposed to spend another twenty-four hours
within its walls. But I had not quitted my bed (and it was between six and
seven o'clock in the morning) before my good friend the Professor was
announced: and in half a second was standing at the foot of it. He pulled
off his green cloth cap, in which I had first seen him--and I pulled off my
night cap, to return his salutation--raising myself in bed. He apologised
for such an early intrusion, but said "the duties of his situation led him
to be an early riser; and that, at seven, his business of instructing youth
was to begin." I thanked him heartily for his polite attentions--little
expecting the honour of so early a visit. He then assumed a graver
expression of countenance, and a deeper tone of voice; and added, in the
Latin language--"May it please Providence, worthy Sir, to restore you
safely, (after you shall have examined the treasures in the imperial
library of Vienna) to your wife and family. It will always gratify me to
hear of your welfare." The Professor then bowed: shut the door quickly, and
I saw him no more. I mention this little anecdote, merely to give you an
idea of the extreme simplicity, and friendliness of disposition, (which I
have already observed in more than this one instance) of the German
character.
The day of my departure was market-day at Ulm. Having ordered the horses at
ten o'clock, I took a stroll in the market-place, and saw the several
sights which are exhibited on such occasions. Poultry, meat, vegetables,
butter, eggs, and--about three stalls of modern books. These books were,
necessarily, almost wholly, published in the German language; but as I am
fond of reading the popular manuals of instruction of every
country--whether these instructions be moral, historical, or facetious--I
purchased a couple of copies of the _Almanac Historique nomme Le_ _Messager
Boiteux_, &c: a quarto publication, printed in the sorriest chap-book
manner, at Colmar, and of which the fictitious name of _Antoine Souci,
Astronome et Hist._ stands in the title-page as the author. A wood-cut of
an old fellow with a wooden leg, and a letter in his right hand, is
intended to grace this title-page. "Do you believe (said I to the young
woman, who sold me the book, and who could luckily stammer forth a few
words of French) what the author of this work says?" "Yes, Sir, I believe
even _more_ than what he says--" was the instant reply of the credulous
vender of the tome. Every body around seemed to be in good health and good
spirits; and a more cheerful opening of a market-day could not have been
witnessed. Perhaps, to a stranger, there is no sight which makes him more
solicitous to become acquainted with new faces, in a new country, than such
a scene as this. All was hilarity and good humour: while, above, was a sky
as bright and blue as ever was introduced into an illuminated copy of the
devotional volumes printed by the father of the ULM PRESS; to wit, _John
Zeiner of Reutlingen_.
We crossed the Danube a little after ten o'clock, and entered the
territories of the King of BAVARIA. Fresh liveries to the postilion--light
blue, with white facings--a horn slung across the shoulders, to which the
postilion applied his lips to blow a merry blast[28]all animated us: as,
upon paying the tax at the barriers, we sprung forward at a sharp trot
towards _Augsbourg_. The morning continued fine, but the country was rather
flat; which enabled us, however, as we turned a frequent look behind, to
keep the tower of the cathedral of Ulm in view even for some half dozen
miles. The distance before us now became a little more hilly: and we began
to have the first glimpse of those _forests of firs_ which abound
throughout Bavaria. They seem at times interminable. Meanwhile, the
churches, thinly scattered here and there; had a sort of mosque or globular
shaped summit, crowned by a short and slender spire; while the villages
appeared very humble, but with few or no beggars assailing you upon
changing horses. We had scarcely reached _Guenzbourg_, the first stage, and
about fourteen miles from Ulm, when we obtained a glimpse of what appeared
to be some lofty mountains at the distance of forty or fifty miles. Upon
enquiry, I found that they were a part of a chain of mountains connected
with those in the Tyrol.
It was about five o'clock when we reached AUGSBOURG; and, on entering it,
we could not but be struck with the _painted exteriors_, and elaborate
style of architecture, of the houses. We noticed, with surprise not wholly
divested of admiration, shepherds and shepherdesses, heroes and heroines,
piazzas, palaces, cascades, and fountains--in colours rather gay than
appropriate--depicted upon the exterior walls:--and it seemed as if the
accidents of weather and of time had rarely visited these decorations. All
was fresh, and gay, and imposing. But a word about our Inn, (_The Three
Moors_) before I take you out of doors. It is very large; and, what is
better, the owner of it is very civil. Your carriage drives into a covered
gate way or vestibule, from whence the different stair-cases, or principal
doors, lead to the several divisions of the house. The front of the house
is rich and elegant. On admiring it, the waiter observed--"Yes, Sir, this
front is worthy of the reputation which the _Hotel of the Three Moors_
possesses throughout Europe." I admitted it was most respectable. Our bed
rooms are superb--though, by preference, I always chose the upper suit of
apartments. The _caffe_ for dining, below, is large and commodious; and I
had hardly bespoke my first dinner, when the head-waiter put the
_travelling book_ into my hands: that is, a book, or _album_, in which the
names and qualities of all the guests at that inn, from all parts of
Europe, are duly registered. I saw the names of several of my countrymen
whom I well knew; and inscribed my own name, and that of my companion, with
the simplest adjuncts that could be devised. In doing so, I acted only
according to precedent. But the boast and glory of this Inn is its GALLERY
OF PICTURES: for sale. The great ball-room, together with sundry corridores
and cabinets adjoining, are full of these pictures; and, what renders the
view of them more delectable, is, the _Catalogue_:--printed in the _English
language_, and of which a German is the reputed author.
My attention, upon first running over these pictures was, unluckily, much
divided between them and the vehicle of their description. If I turned to
the number, and to the description in the printed catalogue, the language
of the latter was frequently so whimsical that I could not refrain from
downright laughter.[29] However, the substance must not be neglected for
the shadow; and it is right that you should know, in case you put your
travelling scheme of visiting this country, next year, into execution, that
the following observations may not be wholly without their use in directing
your choice--as well as attention--should you be disposed to purchase. Here
is _said_ to be a portrait of _Arcolano Armafrodita_, a famous physician at
Rome in the XVth century, by _Leonardo da Vinci_. Believe neither the one
nor the other. There are some _Albert Durers_; one of the _Trinity,_ of the
date of 1523, and another of the _Doctors of the Church_ dated 1494: the
latter good, and a choice picture of the early time of the master. A
portrait of an old man, kit-cat, _supposed_ by _Murillo_. Two ancient
pictures by _Holbein_ (that is, the _Father_ of Hans Holbein) of the
_Fugger family_--containing nine figures, portraits, of the size of life:
dated 1517 and deserving of notice. An old woman veiled, half-length, by
_J. Levens_: very good. Here are two _Lucas Cranachs_, which I should like
to purchase; but am fearful of dipping too deeply into Madame Francs's
supplemental supply. One is a supposed portrait (it is a mere supposition)
of _Erasmus_ and his mistress; the other is an old man conversing with a
girl. As specimens of colouring, they are fine--for the master; but I
suspect they have had a few retouches. Here is what the catalogue calls "A
_fuddling-bout. beautyful small piece, by Rembrand_:" nº. 188: but it is
any thing but a beautiful piece, and any thing but a Rembrandt.
There is a small picture, said to be by _Marchessini_, of "Christ dragged
to the place of execution." It is full of spirit, and I think quite
original. At first I mistook it for a _Rubens_; and if Marchessini, and not
Otho Venius, had been his master, this mistake would have been natural. I
think I could cull a nosegay of a few vivid and fragrant flowers, from this
graphic garden of plants of all colours and qualities. But I shrewdly
suspect that they are in general the off-scourings of public or private
collections; and that a thick coat of varnish and a broad gilt frame will
often lead the unwary astray.
While I am upon the subject of _paintings_, I must take you with me to the
TOWN HALL ... a noble structure; of which the audience room, up one pair of
stairs--and in which Charles V. received the deputies respecting the famous
_Augsbourg Confession of Faith_, in 1530,--is, to my taste, the most
perfectly handsome room which I have ever seen. The wainscot or sides are
walnut and chestnut wood, relieved by beautiful gilt ornaments. The ceiling
is also of the same materials; but marked and diversified by divisions of
square, or parallelogram, or oval, or circular, forms. This ceiling is very
lofty, for the size of the room: but it is a fault (if it be one) on the
right side. I should say, that this were a chamber worthy of the cause--and
of the actors--in the scene alluded to. It is thoroughly imperial: grave,
grand, and yet not preposterously gorgeous.
Above this magnificent room is the PICTURE GALLERY. It is said to receive
the overflowings of the gallery of Munich--which, in turn, has been
indebted to the well known gallery of Dusseldorf for its principal
treasures. However, as a receiver of cast-off apparel, this collection must
be necessarily inferior to the parent wardrobe, yet I would strongly
recommend every English Antiquary--at all desirous of increasing his
knowledge, and improving his taste, in early German art--to pay due
attention to this singular collection of pictures at Augsbourg. He will see
here, for the first time in Bavaria--in his route from the capital of
France--productions, quite new in character, and not less striking from
boldness of conception and vigor of execution. Augsbourg may now be
considered the soil of the _Elder Holbein_, _Hans Burgmair_, _Amberger_,
and _Lucas Cranach_. Here are things, of which Richardson never dreamt, and
which Walpole would have parted with three fourths of his graphic
embellishments at Strawberry Hill to have possessed. Here are also
portraits of some of the early Reformers, of which an excellent Divine (in
the vicinity of Hackney church) would leap with transport to possess
copies, wherewith to adorn his admirable collection of English
ecclesiastical history. Here, too, are capricious drolleries, full of
character and singularity--throwing light upon past manners and
customs--which the excellent PROSPERO would view with ... an almost
coveting eye!
But to be more particular; and to begin with the notice of a curious
performance of John, or the ELDER HOLBEIN. It is divided, like many of the
pictures of the old German masters, into three compartments. The _Nativity_
occupies one; the _Assumption_ another: and the decapitation of _St.
Dorothy_ the third. In the Assumption, the Trinity, composed of three male
figures, is introduced as sanctifying the Virgin--who is in front. Below
this group is the church of "_Maria Maior_," having two bells in the
steeple; upon one of which, in the act of being tolled, is the date of
1499: upon the other, in a quiescent state, are the words HANS HOLBEIN:
with the initial L.B. to the right. To the left, at bottom, is the
inscription HIE LITBE GRA; to the right, below, on a piece of stone, the
initial H. The third piece in this composition, the death of St. Dorothy,
exhibits a sweetly-drawn and sweetly coloured countenance in that of the
devoted Saint. She is kneeling, about to receive the uplifted sword of the
executioner; evincing a firmness, yet meekness of resignation, not unworthy
the virgin martyrs of the pencils of Raphael and Guido. Her hair is long,
and flows gracefully behind. A little boy, habited in a whimsical jacket,
offers her a vase filled with flowers. The whole picture is rich and mellow
in its colouring, and in a fine state of preservation.
Another piece, by the same uncommon artist, may be also worth particular
notice. It is a miscellaneous performance, divided into three compartments;
having, in the upper part of the first, a representation of the Agony in
the Garden of Gethsemane. Our Saviour is placed in a very singular
situation, within a rock. The comforting angel appears just above him.
Below is the Pope, in full costume, in the character of St. Peter, with a
key in his left hand, and in his right a scroll; upon the latter of which
is this inscription: "_Auctoritate aplica dimitto vob omia
pcta_"[30] The date of 1501 is below. This picture, which is exceedingly
gorgeous, is in the purest state of preservation. Another compartment
represents our Saviour and the Virgin surrounded by male and female
martyrs. One man, with his arms over his head, and a nail driven through
them into his skull, is very striking: the head being well drawn and
coloured. To the left, are the Pope, Bishops, and a Cardinal between St.
Christopher and a man in armour. One Bishop (_St. Erasmus_) carries a spit
in his left hand, designating the instrument whereby he suffered death.
This large picture is also in a very fine state of preservation.
A third display of the graphic talents of the Elder Holbein (as I should
conceive, rather than of the son, when young--as is generally believed)
claims especial notice. This picture is a representation of the leading
events in the _Life of St. Paul_; having, like most other performances of
this period, many episodes or digressions. It is also divided into three
compartments; of which the central one, as usual, is the most elevated. The
first compartment, to the left, represents the conversion of St. Paul
above, with his baptism by Ananias below. In this baptism is represented a
glory round the head of St. Paul--such as we see round that of Christ.
Before them stands a boy, with a lighted torch and a box: an old man is to
the left, and another, with two children, to the right. This second old
man's head is rather fine. To the left of the baptism, a little above, is
St. Paul in prison, giving a letter to a messenger. The whole piece is,
throughout, richly and warmly coloured, and in a fine state of
preservation. The central piece has, above, ["_Basilica Sancti Pauli_."]
Christ crowned with thorns. The man, putting a sceptre in his hand, is most
singularly and not inelegantly clothed; but one or two of the figures of
the men behind, occupied in platting the crown of thorns, have a most
extraordinary and original cast of countenance and of head-dress. They
appear ferocious, but almost ludicrous, from bordering upon caricature;
while the leaves; and bullrush-like ornaments of their head-dress, render
them very singularly striking personages. To the right, Joseph of Arimathea
is bargaining for the body of Jesus; the finger of one hand placed against
the thumb of the other telling the nature of the action admirably.
Below this subject, in the centre, is St. Paul preaching at Athens. One of
the figures, listening to the orator with folded arms, might have given the
hint to Raphael for one of _his_ figures, in a similar attitude, introduced
into the famous cartoon of the same subject. Before St. Paul, below, a
woman is sitting--looking at him, and having her back turned to the
spectator. The head-dress of this figure, which is white, is not
ungraceful. I made a rude copy of it; but if I had even coloured like * * *
I could not have done justice to the neck and back; which exhibited a tone
of colour that seemed to unite all the warmth of Titian with all the
freshness of Rubens. In the foreground of this picture, to the right, St.
Peter and St. Paul are being led to execution. There is great vigour of
conception and of touch (perhaps bordering somewhat upon caricature) in the
countenances of the soldiers. One of them is shewing his teeth, with a
savage grin, whilst he is goading on the Apostles to execution. The
headless trunk of St. Paul, with blood spouting from it, lies to the left;
the executioner, having performed his office, is deliberately sheathing his
sword. The colouring throughout may be considered perfect. We now come to
the remaining, or third compartment. This exhibits the interment of St.
Paul. There is a procession from a church, led on by the Pope, who carries
the head of the Apostle upon a napkin. The same head is also represented as
placed between the feet of the corpse, in the foreground. There is a clever
figure, in profile, of a man kneeling in front: the colouring of the robe
of a Bishop, also kneeling, is rich and harmonious. A man, with a glory
round his head, is let down in a basket, as from prison, to witness the
funeral. But let me not forget to notice the head of an old man, in the
procession, (coming out of the church-door) and turning towards the
left:--it is admirably well touched.
I shall now give you a notion of the talents of HANS BURGMAIR--a painter,
as well as engraver, of first-rate abilities. I will begin with what I
consider to be the most elaborate specimen of his pencil in this most
curious gallery of pictures. The subject is serious, but miscellaneous: and
of the date of 1501. It consists of Patriarchs, Evangelists, Martyrs, male
and female, and Popes, &c. The Virgin and Christ are sitting, at top, in
distinguished majesty. The countenances of the whole group are full of
nature and expression: that of the Virgin is doubtless painted after a
living subject. It exhibits the prevailing or favourite _mouth_ of the
artist; which happens however to be generally somewhat awry. The cherub,
holding up a white crown, and thrusting his arm as it were towards the spot
where it is to be fixed, is prettily conceived. Upon the whole, this
picture contains some very fine heads.
Another picture of Hans Burgmair, worth especial attention, is dated 1504.
It is, as usual, divided, into three compartments; and the subject is that
of _St. Ursula and her Virgins_. Although of less solid merit than the
preceding, it is infinitely more striking; being most singularly conceived
and executed. The gold ornaments, and gold grounds, are throughout managed
with a freedom and minuteness of touch which distinguish many of the most
beautiful early missals. In the first compartment, or division, are a group
of women round "_Sibila Ancyra Phrygiae_." The dresses of these women,
especially about the breast, are very curious. Some of their head dresses
are not less striking, but more simple; having what may be called a cushion
of gold at the back of them. In the second compartment is the
_Crucifixion_--in the warmest and richest (says my memorandum, taken on the
very spot) glow of colour. Beneath, there is a singular composition. Before
a church, is a group of pilgrims with staves and hats on; a man, not in the
attire of a pilgrim, heads them; he is habited in green, and points
backwards towards a woman, who is retreating; a book is in his left hand.
The attitudes of both are very natural. Further to the right, a man is
retreating--going through an archway--with a badge (a pair of cross keys)
upon his shoulder. The retreating woman has also the same badge. To the
left, another pilgrim is sitting, apparently to watch; further up, is a
house, towards which all the pilgrims seem to be directing their steps to
enter. A man and woman come out of this house to receive them with open
arms. The third division continues the History of St. Ursula. Her attire,
sitting in a vessel by the side of her husband Gutherus, is sumptuous in
the extreme. I would have given four ducats for a copy of it, but Mr. Lewis
was otherwise engaged. A Pope and Cardinal are to the right of St. Ursula:
the whole being in a perfect blaze of splendour. Below, they are dragging
the female Saint and her virgin companions on shore, for the purpose of
decapitation. An attitude of horror, in one of the virgins, is very
striking.
There is a small picture by Burgmair of the _Virgin and Christ_, in the
manner of the Italian masters, which is a palpable failure. The infant is
wretchedly drawn, although, in other respects, prettily and tenderly
coloured. Burgmair was out of his element in subjects of dignity, or rather
of _repose_. Where the workings of the mind were not to be depicted by
strong demarcations of countenance, he was generally unsuccessful. Hence it
is, that in a subject of the greatest repose, but at the same time
intensity of feeling--the _Crucifixion_--this master, in a picture here, of
the date of 1519, has really outdone himself: and perhaps is not to be
excelled by _any_ artist of the same period. I could not take my eyes from
this picture--of which the figures are about half the size of life. It is
thus treated. Our Saviour has just breathed his dying exclamation--"it is
finished." His head hangs down--cold, pale death being imprinted upon every
feature of the face. It is perhaps a painfully-deadly countenance: copied,
I make no doubt, from nature. St. Anne, Mary, and St. John, are the only
attendants. The former is quite absorbed in agony--her head is lowly
inclined, and her arms are above it. (The pattern of the drapery is rather
singular). Mary exhibits a more quiet expression: her resignation is calm
and fixed, while her heart seems to be broken. But it is in the figure and
countenance of _St. John_, that the artist has reached all that an artist
_could_ reach in a delineation of the same subject. The beloved disciple
simply looks upwards--upon the breathless corpse of his crucified master.
In that look, the world appears to be for ever forgotten. His arms and
hands are locked together, in the agony of his soul. There is the sublimest
abstraction from every artificial and frivolous accompaniment--in the
treatment of this subject--which you can possibly conceive. The background
of the picture is worthy of its nobler parts. There is a sobriety of
colouring about it which Annibal Caracci would not have disdained to own. I
should add, that there is a folding compartment on each side of the
principal subject, which, moving upon hinges, may be turned inwards, and
shut the whole from view. Each of these compartments contains one of the
two thieves who were crucified with Our Saviour. There is a figure of S.
Lazarus below one of them, which is very fine for colour and drawing.
The last, in the series of old pictures by German masters, which I have
time to notice, is an exceedingly curious and valuable one by CHRISTOPHER
AMBERGER. It represents _the Adoration of the Magi_. There are throughout
very successful attempts at reflected light; but what should set this
picture above all price, in my humble estimation, is a portrait--and the
finest which I remember to have seen--of MELANCTHON:--executed when he was
in the vigour of life, and in the full possession of physiognomical
expression. He is introduced in the stable just over those near the Virgin,
who are coming to pay their homage to the infant Christ: and is habited in
black, with a black cap on. Mr. Lewis made the following rough copy of the
head in pencil. To the best of my recollection, there is _no engraving_ of
it--so that you will preserve the enclosed for me, for the purpose of
having it executed upon copper, when I reach England. It is a countenance
full of intellectual expression.
[Illustration]
Of the supposed _Titians_, _Caraccis_, _Guidos_, _Cignanis_, and _Paolo
Veroneses_, I will not presume to say one word; because I have great doubts
about their genuineness, or, at any rate, integrity of condition. I looked
about for _Albert Durer_, and _Lucas Cranach_, and saw with pleasure the
portraits of my old friends _Maximilian I._ and _Charles V._ by the
former--and a _Samson and Dalila_ by the latter: but neither, I think, in
the very first rate style of the artist.
There was a frightful, but expressive and well coloured, head of a Dwarf,
or Fool, of which Mr. Lewis took a pencil-copy; but it is not of sufficient
importance to enclose in this despatch. It is the EARLY GERMAN SCHOOL of
Art which is here the grand and almost exclusive feature of
attraction--speaking in an antiquarian point of view. ReIchard estimates
the number of these pictures at _twelve hundred_, but I should rather say
_seven hundred_.
I find, however, that it will be impossible to compress all my _Augsbourg_
intelligence in one epistle; and so I reserve the remainder for another
opportunity.
[23] [Several years have elapsed since I have received a letter from Mons.
Le Bret. Is he alive? If he be living, let him be assured of my
unalterable and respectful attachment: and that I have unfeigned
pleasure in annexing a fac-simile of his AUTOGRAPH--from a letter to
me of the date of June 8th 1819: a letter, which I received on the
17th of the same month following--the very day of our _Roxburghe
Anniversary Dinner_. Singularly enough, this letter begins in the
following strain of bibliographical jocoseness: "_Monsieur, et tres
reverend Frere de Boocace l'Immortel!_"]
[Illustration: Signature--f.c. Lebret]
[24] The predominant religion is the Protestant. Indeed I may say that the
number of Catholics is exceedingly limited: perhaps, not an eighth
part of the population of the town.
[25] I presume this to be the earliest date which any of his books exhibit.
His brother GUNTHER, or GINTHER (for the name is spelt both ways in
his colophons) began to print in 1468. Lord Spencer possesses a
beautiful copy (which I obtained from the library of St. Peter's
Monastery, at Salzbourg) of _Bonaventure's Meditations upon the Life
of Christ_, of the date of 1468, printed by G. Zainer, or (Zeiner)
at Augsbourg; and considered to be the first effort of his press.
[26] The note, above mentioned, was written in Latin: the Professor telling
me that he preferred that language to the French, as he thought he
could write it more grammatically. A _Latin note_ must be rather
a curiosity to my readers: which, as it is purely bibliographical, and
in other respects highly characteristic of the _bon-hommie_ of
the writer, shall receive a place here. After mentioning the books
above specified, the Professor goes on thus:
"Haec paucula e pluribus notare libuit, quae reliqua temporis
angustia ostendere non permisit. Habeo enim alias, quas vocant,
editiones principes, e.g. Diogenis Laertii, Bas. 1533-4. Josephi,
Bas. 1544. fol. Jo. Chrysostomi [Greek: _peri pronoias_]
1526-8. Ej. [Greek: peri hierosunes], ib 1525-8. Aliorum Graecorum
et Patrum. Calpurnii et Nemesiani Eclogarum editionem, ab. do.
Alex. Brassicano curatam editionem ad MS. antiquum factam et
Argent. 1519-4. impressam. Praeterea aliquot Aldinas et Juntinas
editiones, aliquot a Mich. Vascosano, Paris. factas, in quibus
Thucydidis Libri III. priores, Paris. 1548. 4. cujus margini
Lectt. Varr. e MSto adscriptae sunt, non memoratae in editione
Bipontina. AEschylus, ex edit. Franc. Robortelli, Venet. 1552. 8.
Idem ex ed. Henr. Stephani, ex offic. Henr. Stephani, 1557. 4.
Dionysii Halic. Opera Rhet. ex. ed. Rob. Stephani, Par. 1547. Fol.
Diodor. Sicul. ex edit. Henr. Stephani, 1559. Fol.
"Pauculos Codd. MSS. e. gr. Ciceronis de Officiis, Aratoris in
Acta App. Fragmenta Liuii et Terentii ostendere tempus non
concessit: praeter eos habeo aliquot Ciceronis Orationes, Excerpta
ex Liuio, duos Historiae Griseldis, et alios minoris pretii.
"Maximam collectionis, Bibliothecam appellare non fas est, meae
partem efficit magnus librorum et libellorum numerus ab Ao. 1500.
usque ad 1550. editorum a Reformatoribus eorumque aduersariis, qui
numerum sex millium superant, in quibus adsunt Serueti de
Trinitatis erroribus, eiusdemque Dialogi, Tomi Pasquillorum, Henr.
Corn. Agrippae aliquot opera, Lemnii Epigrammata, aliquot libelli,
Lutheri et Melancthonis manu ornati; praeterea alia Collectio
Documentorum, quorum antiquissimum est ab. A. 1181 et Epistolarum
[Greek: _autographon_], a viris doctis Saeculorum XV. XVI.
XVII. XVIII. conscriptarum, in quibus Henr. Steinhoevvelii, Raym.
Peraudi, Lutheri, Melancthonis, Zwinglii, Gruteri, Casauboni,
Ludolfi, Camerarii, Patris, Rittershusiorum, Piccarti, aliorumque.
"Sed nolo longiore enarratione molestus esse, ne vanus esse
uidear, a quo vitio nemo me alienior est. Vt divina providentia
iter prosperum esse iubeat, est, quod ex animo TIBI, VIR--precatur
Vlmae,
Aug.
MDCCCXVIII.
[Illustration: Signature]
P.S. Et TIBI praesenti, et superiora heri nocte et somno ingruente
scribens referre omiseram, esse mihi ex XXII. libris _ab
Academia Veneta, della Fama dicta_, editis XV. Omnes adeo sunt
rari, ut vel instructissimae bibliothecae vix aliquot eorum
habeant. Addo _germanicam Sixti Papae Bullae datae 1474
versionem,_ sine dubio Vlmae eodem anno impressam, et quinque
foliis constantem; quam apud me vidisti."
The Professor, with the above note, was also so obliging as to present
me with a copy of his "_Specimen Historico-Litterarium de Academia
Veneta_. Qua Scholarchae et Vniversum Gymnasii quod Ulmae floret
Consilium Maecenates Patronos Fautores ejusdem Gymnasii ad Orationem
aditialem A.D. XXIV. Febr. A. 1794, habendam officiose atque decenter
invitant."--A Latin brochure of twelve pages: "_Ulmae ex Officina
Wagneri, Patris_."
[27] [There is an excellent lithographic print of this Rath Haus, which I
possess.]
[28] The postboys in the Duchy of Baden, and in the territories of
Wuertemberg, have also horns; but I never could get any thing, in the
character of a tune, performed by either of them. The moment you enter
BAVARIA, you observe a greater elasticity of character. [The ARMS of
Bavaria head the first page of this third volume of my Tour.]
[29] The reader may try the effect of perusing the following articles
(taken from this printed catalogue) upon his own muscles. The
performance, as I suspect, is by a native of Augsbourg.
75. _Portrait of Justus Lipsius by Rembrand_. This head of a
singulary verity shews of draughts of a man of science: the
treatement of Clothing is most perfectful, the respiring of life,
the hands all wunder-worthy to be admired. 208. _A
hunting-piece_ of great beauty by Schneyders, the dogs seem to be
alife, the wild-fowls, a hare, toils, just as in nature. 341.
_Queen Marie Christine of Sweden_ represented in a very noble
situation of body and tranquility of mind, of a fine verity and a
high effect of clair-obscure. By Rembrand. 376. _Cromwell
Olivier_, kit-cat the size of life, a Portrait of the finest
carnation, who shews of a perfect likeness and verity, school of
Vandyk, perhaps by himself. 398. Portrait of _Charles the first
king of England_ (so many Portraits of famous persons by Classick
painters will very seldom be found into a privat collection) good
picture by Janson van Miereveld. 399. A large and precious battle
piece representing a scene of the famous _victory by Blindheim
wonen by Marleborough_ over the frensh 1704. We see here the
portrait of this hero very resembling, he in a graceful attitude
on horsebak, is just to order a movement: a many generals and
attendance are arround him. The leaguer, the landscape, the
groups, the fighting all with the greatest thruth, there is
nothing that does not contribute to embellish this very remarcable
picture, painted by a contemporary of the evenement and famous
artist in battle pieces, George Philipp Rugendas.
[30] This was no uncommon representation in the early period of art. "In
the church of St. Peter the Younger, at Strasbourg, about the year
1515, there was a kind of large printed placard, with figures on each
side of it, suspended near a confessional. On one side, was a naked
Christ, removing the fire of purgatory with his cross, and sending all
those, who came out of the fire, to the Pope--who was seated in his
pontifical robes, having letters of indulgence before him. Before him,
also, knelt emperors, kings, cardinals, bishops and others: behind him
was a sack of silver, with many captives delivered from Mahometan
slavery--thanking the supreme Pontiff, and followed by clergymen
paying the ransom money to the Turks. There might also be seen
captives, at the bottom of a deep well, shut down by bars of iron; and
men, women, and children, making all manner of horrible contortions.
"Those, says the chronicler Wencker, "who saw such a piteous sight,
wept, and gave money liberally--for the possession of indulgences;--of
which the money, raised by the sale, was supposed to be applied
towards the ransom of Christian captives." HERMANN; _Notices
Historiques, &c. de Strasbourg_: vol. ii. p. 434.
LETTER IV.
AUGSBOURG. CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. POPULATION. TRADE. THE
PUBLIC LIBRARY.
In ancient times--that is to say, upwards of three centuries ago--the CITY
OF AUGSBOURG was probably the most populous and consequential in the
kingdom of Bavaria. It was the principal residence of the noblesse, and the
great mart of commerce. Dukes, barons, nobles of every rank and degree,
became domiciled here. A thousand blue and white flags streamed from the
tops of castellated mansions, and fluttered along the then almost
impregnable ramparts. It was also not less remarkable for the number and
splendour of its religious establishments. Here was a cathedral, containing
twenty-four chapels; and an abbey or monastery (of _Saints Vlric and Afra_)
which had no rival in Bavaria for the size of its structure and the wealth
of its possessions. This latter contained a LIBRARY, both of MSS. and
printed books, of which the recent work of Braun has luckily preserved a
record;[31] and which, but for such record, would have been unknown to
after ages. The treasures of this Library are now entirely dispersed; and
Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is the grand repository of them. Augsbourg,
in the first instance, was enriched by the dilapidations of numerous
monasteries; especially upon the suppression of the order of the Jesuits.
The paintings, books, and relics, of every description, of such monasteries
as were in the immediate vicinity of this city, were taken away to adorn
the town hall, churches, capitals and libraries. Of this collection, (of
which no inconsiderable portion, both for number and intrinsic value, came
from the neighbouring monastery of Eichstadt,[32]) there has of course been
a pruning; and many flowers have been transplanted to Munich. Yet there are
_graphic_ treasures in Augsbourg well deserving the diligent search and
critical examination of the English Antiquary. The church of the
_Recollets_ has an organ which is considered among the noblest in Europe:
nor must I forget to notice the pulpit, by Eichlen, and some old pictures
in the church of St. Anne.
[Illustration: MONASTERY OF SAINTS ULRIC & AFRA, AUGSBURG.]
The TOWN HALL in this city, which I mentioned in my last letter, is thought
to be the finest in Germany. It was yet exceeded, as I learn, by the old
EPISCOPAL PALACE, now dismembered of its ancient dimensions, and divided
into public offices of government. The principal church, at the end of the
_Maximilian Street_, is that which once formed the chief ornament of the
famous Abbey of Sts. Ulric and Afra.[33] I should think that there is no
portion of the present building older than the fourteenth century; while it
is evident that the upper part of the tower is of the middle of the
sixteenth. It has a nearly globular or mosque-shaped termination--so common
in the greater number of the Bavarian churches. It is frequented by
congregations both of the Catholic and Protestant persuasion; and it was
highly gratifying to see, as I saw, human beings assembled under the same
roof, equally occupied in their different forms of adoration, in doing
homage to their common Creator. It was also pleasing, the other day, to
witness, upon some high religious festival, the crowds of respectable and
well-dressed people (chiefly females) who were issuing from the Church just
above mentioned. It had quite an English Sunday appearance. I have said
that these females were "well dressed"--I should, rather have said superbly
dressed: for their head-ornaments--consisting of a cap, depressed at top,
but terminating behind in a broad bow--are usually silk, of different
colours, entirely covered with gold or silver gauze, and spangles. The hair
appeared to be carefully combed and plaited, either turned up in a broad
mass behind, or terminating in ringlets. I asked the price of one of the
simplest of these caps--worn by the common order of servants--and found it
to be little less than a guinea. But they last long, and the owners attach
some importance to them.
Augsbourg was once distinguished for great learning and piety, as well as
for political consequence; and she boasts of a very splendid
_martyrological roll_.[34] At the present day, all is comparatively dull
and quiet; but you cannot fail to be struck with the magnificence of many
of the houses, and the air of importance hence given to the streets; while
the paintings upon the outer walls add much to the splendid effect of the
whole. The population of Augsbourg is supposed to amount to about thirty
thousand. In the time of Maximilian, and Charles V. it was, I make no
doubt, twice as numerous.
Of the TRADE of Augsbourg, I am not enabled to transmit any very flattering
details. Silks, stuffs, dimity, (made here for the first time) and
jewellery, are the chief commodities; but for the _latter_, connected with
articles of dress, there is rather a brisk demand. The reputation of the
manufactory of _Seethaler_, is deserving of mention. In the repository of
this respectable tradesman you will find varieties of every description:
rings, buckles, clasps, bracelets, and images of Saints, of peculiar and
interesting forms. Yet they complain here of stagnation of commerce in
almost every one of its branches: although they admit that the continuance
of peace will bring things comfortably round again. The late war exhausted
both the population and the treasury of Bavaria. They do a good stroke of
business in the concerns of the bank: and this is considered rather a
famous place for the management of letters and bills of exchange. With
respect to the _latter_, some singular customs and privileges are, I
understand, observed here: among others, if a bill become due on a
_Wednesday_, eight days of grace are invariably allowed.
It was the thoughts of the PUBLIC LIBRARY alone that afforded the chief
comfort to the depressed state of my spirits, from the excessive heat of
the day. What I might _do_, and at last, what I had _done_, within the
precincts of that same library, was sure to be my greatest solace during
the evening rambles near the ramparts. The good fortune which attended me
at Stuttgart, has followed to this place. Within two yards' length of me
repose, at this present instant, the first _Horace_, and the finest copy
imaginable of the _Polish Protestant Bible_ of Prince Radzivil--together
with a _Latin Bible_ of 1475, by _Frisner and Sensenschmidt_, in two
enormous folio volumes, of an execution of almost unparalleled
magnificence. These are no common stimulants to provoke appetite. It
remains to see whether the banquet itself be composed of proportionably
palatable ingredients.
On leaving Stuttgart, M. Le Bret told me that Messrs. BEYSCHLAG and MAY
were the principal librarians or curators of the Public Library of this
place; and that I should find them intelligent and pleasant gentlemen.
Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm confirmed this statement. I had a letter from
the latter, to the Rector Beyschlag, which procured me an immediate
entrance into the library. The Rector's coadjutor, Professor May, was also
most prompt to shew me every rarity. In the countenance of the _latter_, I
saw, what you could not fail to call that of a handsome-looking English
gentleman. I had never before so vehemently desired to speak the German
language, or for my new acquaintance to speak my own. However, the French
tongue was the happy medium of imparting my ideas and propositions to both
the gentlemen in question; and we had hardly exchanged half a dozen
sentences, when I opened what I considered (and what eventually turned out
to be) a well directed fire upon the ancient volumes by which I was at the
time surrounded.
The exterior of this library has a monastic form. The building is low and
unpretending, having an octangular tower, up the staircase of which you
mount to the library. It is situated within a stone's throw of the High
Street. The interior of the library is not less unpretending than its
exterior: but in a closet, at the hither end, (to the left on entering) are
preserved the more ancient, choice, and curious volumes. In one compartment
of this cabinet-like retreat are contained the _books printed at Augsbourg_
in the infancy of the press of this town:[35] a collection, extremely
creditable in itself and in its object; and from which, no consideration,
whether of money, or of exchange for other books, would induce the curators
to withdraw a volume. Of course I speak not of _duplicates_ of the early
Augsbourg press. Two comparatively long rooms, running in parallel lines,
contain the greater part of the volumes of the public library; and amongst
them I witnessed so many genuine, fair, and original conditioned copies of
literary works, of the early period of the Reformation, that I almost
sighed to possess them--except that I knew they could not possibly pay the
expenses of conveyance.
But for the "well directed fire" above alluded to. It produced a
_capitulation_ respecting the following articles--which were selected by
myself from the boudoir just mentioned, and about which neither mystery was
observed nor secrecy enjoined. In fact, the contract, of the venders was to
be submitted to, and sanctioned by, the supreme magistracy of the place.
The Rector Beyschlag hath much of merriment and of wit in his composition.
"Now, Sir,"--observed he--"bring those treasures forward which we can
spare, and let us afterwards settle about their value: ourselves affixing a
price." I desired nothing better. In consequence forth came the _first_
(quarto) _Horace_, without date or place, fair, sound, and perfect: the
_Familiar Epistles of Cicero_ of the date of 1469, by S. and Pannartz, in a
condition perfectly unparalleled in every respect; the _Latin Bible_ of
_Frisner and Sensenschmidt_ of 1475, in an equally desirable and pristine
condition;[36] the _Polish Protestant Bible_ of 1563, with its first
rough-edged margins and in wooden binding; _St. Jerom's Epistles_, printed
_at Parma_, by _A. de Portilia_--most captivating to the eye; with a
curious black-letter broadside, in Latin sapphics, pasted in the interior
of the cover; the _History of Bohemia, by Pope Pius II_, of 1475, as fresh
and crackling as if it had just come from the printer: _Schuzler's edition
of the Hexameron of Ambrosius_, 1472: the _Hungarian Chronicle_ of 1485....
"Ohe jam satis est...." for one bargain, at least,--methinks I hear you
remark.
It may be so; but the measure must be fuller. Accordingly, after having
shot off my great guns, I brought my howitzers into play. Then commenced a
pleasant and not unprofitable parley respecting little grammatical tracts,
devotional manuals, travels, philology, &c. When lo!--up sprung a
delightful crop of _Lilies_, _Donatuses_, _Mandevilles_, _Turrecrematas_,
_Brandts_, _Matthews of Cracow_--in vellum surcoats, white in colour, firm
in substance, and most talkative in turning over their leaves! These were
mere _florin_ acquisitions: the preceding were paid for in heavy metal of a
_golden_ hue. It is not fair to betray all that took place upon this
Cockerian transaction; but there may be no harm in mentioning that my purse
was lightened by upwards of 100 louis d'or. My spirits were lightened in
the same proportion. Neither venders nor vendee grieved at the result.
Professor May was most joyous; and although the Rector Beyschlag was
sonorous in voice, restless in action, and determined in manner--about
fixing an alarmingly high price upon the _first Horace_--yet, by degrees,
he subsided into a softer note, and into a calmer action--and the Horace
became _mine_ by a sort of contre-projet proposition.
Nothing would please Professor May but that I must go home with him, and
try my luck in purchasing a few similar rarities out of his _own_
collection. I did so. Madame Francs' supplemental supply became gradually
diminished, and I began to think that if I went on in this manner I should
not only never reach _Vienna_, but not even _Munich_. This doubt was
frankly stated to my book-guardians; and my _ducats_ were immediately
commuted into _paper_. The result will doubtless prove the honour of the
purchaser; for I have drawn upon a quarter which I had exclusively in view
when I made the bargain, and which was never known to fail me. "Surely,"
thought I to myself as I returned to my hotel, "Messrs. Beyschlag and May
are among the most obliging and the most enlightened of their fraternity."
I returned to the Public Library the next morning, as well to conclude a
bargain for an exchange of books for certain recent bibliographical
publications, as to take a list of a few of the more rare, fine, and
curious volumes, in their own collection, which were destined _always_ to
retain their situations.
They have, very properly, the FIRST BOOK PRINTED AT AUGSBOURG: namely,
_Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ_, of the date of 1468,
printed by _Gunther Zainer_. But one of the most uncommon books examined by
me was "_Augustinus Ypponensis Episcopus De Consensu Evangelistarum: In
ciuitate Langingen. Impressus. anno a partu virginis salutifero.
Millesimoquadringentesimoseptuagesimotercio. Pridie Idus. Aprilis_." The
type is very singular; half gothic and half roman. Of the printer and place
I know nothing; except that I learnt from the librarians that "_Langingen_"
is situated about ten leagues from Augsbourg, upon the Danube. I made every
effort--as well by the _ducat_ as by the _exchange_ method--to prevail upon
them to part with this book; but to no purpose. The blood-freezing reply of
Professor Veesenmeyer was here repeated--"ca reste, a ... Augsbourg." This
book is unbound. Another volume, of the same equivocal but tempting
description, was called "_Alcuinus de Trinitate_:--IMPRESSUM IN
UTTIPURRHA _Monasterio Sacto^{4} marty^{4}, Alexadri et Theodri.
Ordiis Scti Bndicti. Anno Sesquimillesimo KL. septembris_ [Hebrew]."
It is printed in a rude gothic letter; and a kind of fly leaf contains a
wood-cut portrait of Alcuin. The monastery, where this volume was printed,
is now suppressed. A pretty little volume--"as fresh as a daisy" (so says
my ms. note taken upon the spot) of the "_Hortulus Rosarium de valle
lachrymarum_" (to which a Latin ode by S. Brandt is prefixed), printed by
I. de Olpe, in 1499, in the original wooden binding--closed my researches
among the volumes executed in the fifteenth century.
As I descended into the sixteenth century, the choice was less, although
the variety was doubtless greater. A fine genuine copy of _Geyler's
Navicula Fatuorum_, 1511, 4to. in its original binding, was quickly noted
down, and as quickly _secured_. It was a duplicate, and a ducat made it my
own. It is one of the commonest books upon the continent--although there
_was_ a time when certain bibliomaniacal madcaps, with us, pushed the
bidding for this volume up to the monstrously insane sum of L42:[37]--and
all, because it was coated in a Grolier binding! Among the theological
books, of especial curiosity, my guides directed my attention to the
following: "_Altera haec pars Testam^ti. veteris emendata est iuxta censuras
Inquisitionis Hispanicae an^o 79_. Nouu testam. recusandu omnino est;
rejicienduq. propter plurimos errores qui illius scholiis sunt
inserti." This was nothing else than the younger R. Stephen's edition of
the vulgate Bible of 1556, folio, of which the _New Testament_ was
absolutely SEALED UP. It had belonged to the library of the Jesuits. There
was a copy of Erasmus, "_Expurgatus iuxta censuram Academiae Louaniae an^o
79_." The name of the printer--which in the preceding Bible had been tried
to be _cancelled_--was here uniformly _erased_: but it was doubtless the
Basil edition of Erasmus by good old honest Froben and his sons-in-law.[38]
What think you of undoubted proofs of STEREOTYPE PRINTING in the middle of
the sixteenth century? It is even so. What adds to the whimsical puzzle is,
that these pieces of metal, of which the surface is composed of types,
fixed and immoveable, are sometimes inserted in wooden blocks, and
introduced as titles, mottoes, or descriptions of the subjects cut upon the
blocks. Professor May begged my acceptance of a specimen or two of the
types, thus fixed upon plates of the same metal. They rarely exceeded the
height of four or five lines of text, by about four or five inches in
length. I carried away, with his permission, two proofs (not long ago
pulled) of the same block containing this intermixture of stereotype and
block-wood printing.
I believe I have now told you all that appears worthy of being told, (as
far as my own opportunities of observation have led me) of the CITY OF
AUGSBOURG. I shall leave it (to-morrow) with regret; since a longer
residence would, I am persuaded, have introduced me to very pleasant
society, and made me acquainted with antiquities, of all kinds, well
deserving of _some_ record, however trivial. As it is, I must be content
with what the shortness of my time, and the more immediately pressing
nature of my pursuits, have brought me in contact. A sight of the
_Crucifixion by Hans Burgmair_, and the possession of the most genuine copy
of the _editio princeps of Horace_, have richly repaid all the toil and
expense of the journey from Stuttgart. The Horace, and the Protestant
Polish Bible of 1563, will be my travelling companions--at least as far as
_Munich_--from whence my next despatch will be dated.[39] I hope, indeed,
to dine at that renowned city ere "the set of to-morrow's sun." In the mean
while, adieu.
[31] His account of the PRINTED BOOKS in the XVth century, in the monastery
above mentioned, was published in 1786, in 2 vols. 4to. That of the
MANUSCRIPTS, in the same monastic library, was published in 1791, in 2
vols. or rather perhaps, six parts, 4to.
[32] Among the books in this monastery was an uncut copy of the famous
edition of the _Meditationes J. de Turrecremata_, of the date of
1467, which is now in the Library of Earl Spencer. In Hartmann
Schedel's _Chronicon Norimbergense_, 1493, fol. CLXII, are
portraits of the Founders of the Town and Monastery of Eichstadt, or
EISTETT; together with a large wood-cut view of the town. This
monastery appears to have been situated on a commanding eminence.
[33] [This Abbey was questionless one of the most celebrated and wealthy in
Europe. The antiquarian reader will be pleased with the OPPOSITE
PLATE--presenting a bird's eye view of it, in the year 1619--(when it
stood in its pristine splendour) from the _Monasteriologia_,
attached to the _Imagines Sanctorum_.]
[34] In the BAVARIA SANCTA of RADERUS, 1615-27, 3 vols. folio, will be
found a succession of martyrological details--adorned by a series of
beautiful engravings by _Ralph Sadeler_. The text is in Latin,
and the author has apparently availed himself of all the accessible
authorities, in manuscript and print, which were likely to give
interest and weight to his narrative. But it seems to have been
composed rather for the sake of the ENGRAVINGS--which are generally
most admirably executed. Great delicacy and truth of drawing, as well
as elegance of grouping, are frequently discernible in them; and
throughout the whole of the compositions there is much of the air of
_Parmegiano's_ pencil; especially in the females. Sadeler makes
his monks and abbots quite _gentlemen_ in their figures and
deportment; and some of his miracles are described with great
singularity and force of effect.
[35] Such is ZAPF'S work, entitled _Annales Typographiae Augustanae_,
1778; 4to. republished with copious additions in 1786, two volumes,
4to. The text of the latter is (unfortunately, for the unlearned)
printed in the German language.
[36] [This Latin Bible came from the Eichstadt Monastery.]
[37] _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. iii. p. 115.
[38] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii. p. 170. &c.
[39] [The first Horace, the Cicero Epist. ad Familiares, 1469, the Latin
Bible by Frisner and Sensenschmidt, 1475 and the Polish Bible of 1563,
(all so warmly and so justly eulogised in the above pages) have been
reposing these last ten years in the library of Earl Spencer: and
magnificent and matchless as is that library, it contains no FINER
volumes than the four preceding. I conclude this detail by subjoining
the Autographs of the two BIBLIOGRAPHICAL WORTHIES who have cut such a
conspicuous figure in the scene above described. The latter is now NO
MORE.]
[Autographs]
LETTER V.
MUNICH. CHURCHES. ROYAL PALACE. PICTURE GALLERY. PUBLIC LIBRARY.
_Munich; Hotel of the Black Eagle; Aug. 16, 1818._
MY DEAR FRIEND;
Behold me, now, in the capital of Bavaria: in a city remarkable for its
bustle, compared with the other German cities which I have visited, and
distinguished rather for the general creditable appearance of the houses
and public buildings, than for any peculiar and commanding remains of
antiquity. But ere I speak of the city, let me detain you for a few seconds
only with an account of my journey thither; and of some few particulars
which preceded my departure from Augsbourg.
It turned out as I predicted. "Ere the set of sun," ensuing my last
despatch, I drove to the principal front of this large, comfortless, and
dirty inn; and partook of a dinner, in the caffe, interrupted by the
incessant vociferations of merchants and traders who had attended the
market (it being market day when I arrived), and annoyed beyond measure by
the countless swarms of flies, which chose to share my cutlet with me.
On taking a farewell look of Augsbourg, my eyes seemed to leave unwillingly
those objects upon which I gazed. The Paintings, the Town Hall, the old
monastery of Saints Ulric and Afra, all--as I turned round to catch a
parting glance--seemed to have stronger claims than ever upon my attention,
and to reproach me for the shortness of my visit. However, my fate was
fixed--and I now only looked steadily forward to Munich; my imagination
being warmed (you will say "inflamed") with the thoughts of the countless
folios, in manuscript and in print--including _block-books_, unheard and
undreamt of--which had been described to me as reposing upon the shelves of
the Royal or PUBLIC LIBRARY. In consequence, Hans Burgmair, Albert Durer,
and the Elder Holbein were perfectly forgotten--after we had reached the
first stage, and changed horses at _Merching_. From Augsbourg to Munich is
but a pleasant and easy drive of about forty-five English miles. The last
stage, from _Fuerstenfelbruck_ to this place, is chiefly interesting; while
the two tall brick towers of the cathedral church of Notre Dame keep
constantly in view for the last seven or eight miles. A chaussee, bordered
on each side by willows, poplars, and limes, brings you--in a tediously
straight line of four or five miles--up to the very gates of MUNICH.
At first view, Munich looks like a modern city. The streets are tolerably
spacious, the houses are architectural, and the different little squares,
_or places_, are pleasant and commodious. It is a city of business and
bustle. Externally, there is not much grandeur of appearance, even in the
palaces or public buildings, but the interiors of many of these edifices
are rich in the productions of ancient art;--whether of sculpture, of
painting, of sainted relics, or of mechanical wonders. Every body just now
is from home; and I learn that the bronzes of the Prince Royal--which are
considered to be the finest in Europe--are both out of order and out of
view. This gallant Prince loves also pictures and books: and, of the
latter, those more especially which were printed by the _Family of Aldus_.
Upon the whole, there is something very anglicised in the appearance both
of this city and of its inhabitants. Of the latter, I have reason to speak
in a manner the most favourable:--as you shall hear by and by. But let me
now discourse (which I must do very briefly) of inanimate objects--or works
of art--before I come to touch upon human beings ... here in constant
motion: and, as it should seem--alternately animated by hope and influenced
by curiosity. The population of Munich is estimated at about 50,000. Of
course, as before, I paid my first visit to the CATHEDRAL, or mother church
of NOTRE DAME, upon the towers of which I had fixed my eyes for a whole
hour on the approach to the city. Both the nave and towers, which are of
red brick, are frightful in the extreme; without ornament: without general
design: without either meaning or expression of any kind. The towers cannot
be less than 350 feet in height: but the tops are mere pepper-boxes. No
part of this church, or cathedral, either within or without, can be older
than the middle of the fifteenth century.[40]
The interior has really nothing deserving of particular description. But I
check myself in an instant: It _has_ something--eminently worthy of
distinct notice and the most unqualified praise. It has a monument of the
EMPEROR Louis IV. which was erected by his great-grandson Maximilian I.
Duke of Bavaria, in 1603-12. The designer of this superb mausoleum was
_Candit_: the figures are in black marble, the ornaments are in bronze; the
latter executed by the famous _Krummper_, of Weilheim. I am ignorant of the
name of the sculptor. This monument stands in the centre of the choir, of
which it occupies a great portion. It is of a square form, having, at each
corner, a soldier, of the size of life, bending on one knee and weeping:
supporting, at the same time, a small flag between his body and arm. These
soldiers are supposed to guard the ashes of the dead. Between them are
three figures, of which two stand back to back. Between these two, somewhat
more elevated, is raised the figure of the Emperor Louis IV.--dressed in
his full imperial costume. But the two figures, just mentioned, are
absolutely incomparable. One of them is _Albert V._ in armour, in his ducal
attire:[41] the other is _William V._ habited in the order of the golden
fleece. This habit consists of a simple broad heavy garment, up to the
neck. The wearer holds a drawn sword in his right hand, which is turned a
little to the right. This figure may be full six feet and a half high. The
head is uncovered; and the breadth of the drapery, together with the erect
position of the figure, and the extension of the sword, gives it one of the
most commanding, and even appalling, airs imaginable. I stood before it,
till I almost felt inclined to kneel and make obeisance. The entire
monument is a noble and consummate specimen of art: and can hardly have any
superior, of its kind, throughout Europe.
Perhaps I should add that the interior of this Church contains twenty-four
large octagonal pillars, dividing the nave from the side aisles: and that
around these latter and the choir, there are not fewer than twenty-four
chapels, ornamented with the tombs of ancient families of distinction. This
interior is about 350 English feet in length, by about 145 in width.
Of the other Churches, that of St. MICHAEL, attached to the _late College
of the Jesuits_,--now forming the Public Academy or University, and
containing the Public Library--is probably the most beautiful for its
simplicity of ornament and breadth of parts. Indeed at this moment I can
recollect nothing to be put in competition with it, as a comparatively
modern edifice. This interior is, as to _Roman_ architecture, what that of
St. Ouen is as to _Gothic_: although the latter be of considerably greater
extent. It is indeed the very charm of interior architecture: where all the
parts, rendered visible by an equal distribution of light, meet the eye at
the same time, and tell their own tale. The vaulted roof, full 300 English
feet in length, has not a single column to support it. Pilasters of the
Corinthian order run along each side of the interior, beneath slightly
projecting galleries; which latter are again surmounted by rows of
pilasters of the Doric order, terminating beneath the spring of the arched
roof. The windows are below the galleries. Statues of prophets, apostles,
and evangelists, grace the upper part of the choir--executed from the
characteristic designs of Candit. The pulpit and the seats are beautifully
carved. Opposite the former, are oratories sustained by columns of red
marble; and the approach to the royal oratory is rendered more impressive
by a flight of ten marble steps. The founder of this church was William V.,
who lies buried in a square vault below: near which is an altar, where they
shew, on All Saints Day, the brass coffins containing the ashes of the
Princes of Bavaria. The period of the completion of this church is quite at
the end of the sixteenth century.[42] But ere I quit it, I must not fail to
direct your attention to a bronze crucifix in the interior--which is in
truth a masterpiece of art. My eye ran over the whole of this interior with
increased delight at every survey; and while the ceremony of high mass was
performing--and the censers emitted their clouds of frankincense--and the
vocal and instrumental sounds of a large congregation pervaded every
portion of the edifice--it was with reluctance (but from necessity) that I
sought the outward door, to close it upon such a combination of
attractions!
Of the nine or ten remaining churches, it will not be necessary to notice
any other than that of St. CAETAN, built by the Electress Adelaide, and
finished about the year 1670. It was built in the accomplishment of a vow.
The pious and liberal Adelaide endowed it with all the relics of art, and
all the treasures of wealth which she could accumulate. It is doubtless one
of the most beautiful churches in Bavaria:--quite of the Italian school of
art, and seems to be a St. Peter's at Rome in miniature. The architect was
Agostino Barella, of Bologna. This church is in the form of a cross. In the
centre is a cupola, sustained by pillars of the Corinthian order. The light
comes down from the windows of this cupola in a very mellow manner; but
there was, when I saw it, rather a want of light. The nave is vaulted: and
the principal altar is beneath the dome, separating the nave from the
choir. The facade, or west front, is a building of yesterday, as it were:
namely, of 1767; but it is beautiful and striking. This church is
considered to be the richest in Munich for its collection of pictures; but
nothing that I saw there made me forget, for one moment, the Crucifixion by
Hans Burgmair.[43] I should say that the interior of this church is equally
distinguished for the justness of its proportions, the propriety of its
ornaments, and the neatness of its condition. It is an honour to the city
of Munich.
There were, some half century ago, about a dozen more churches;--but they
have been since either destroyed or _desecrated_. From the Churches, I must
conduct you, but in a very rapid manner, to some of the public buildings;
reserving, as usual, my last and more leisurely description for the PUBLIC
LIBRARY. Of these buildings, the _Hotel de Ville_, _Theatres_, and _Royal
Residence_, are necessarily the most imposing in size, and most attractive
from their objects of public utility or amusement. The Royal Palace was
built by Maximilian I.--a name as great in the annals of Bavaria, as the
same name was in those of Austria about a century before. This palace is of
about two centuries standing: and its eastern facade measures 550 English
feet in length. It abounds, within and without, with specimens of bronze
ornaments: and two bronze lions (the work of Krummper, after the designs of
Candit) which support the shields of the Electoral houses of Bavaria and
Lorraine, have been considered superior to the Lion in the Place of. St.
Mark at Venice. This immense pile of building contains three courts. In
that of "the Fountain," to the left, under an arch, is a huge black pebble
stone, weighing nearly 400 Bavarian pounds. An old German inscription, of
the date of 1489, tells you that a certain Bavarian Duke, called
_Christopher the Leaper_, threw this same pebble stone to a considerable
distance. Near it, you observe three large nails driven into the wall. The
highest of them may be about twelve feet from the ground:--the mark which
Christopher the Leaper reached in one of his frolicksome jumps. I find they
are lovers of marvellous attainments, in Bavaria:--witness, the supposed
feat of the great Emperor Maximilian upon the parapet wall at the top of
the cathedral of Ulm.[44]
To describe the fountains and bronze figures, in these three courts, would
be endless; but they strike you with a powerful degree of admiration--and a
survey of every thing about you, is a convincing proof that you have
entered a country where they shrink not from solidity and vastness in their
architectural achievements: while the lighter, or ornamental parts, are not
less distinguished by the grace of their design and the vigour of their
execution. Will you believe it--I have not visited, nor shall I have an
opportunity of visiting, the _Interior_? An interior, in which I am told
that there are such gems, jewels, and varieties--such miracles of nature
and of art, as equally baffle description and set competition at defiance.
As thus:--a chapel, of which the pavement is mosaic work, composed of
amethysts, jaspers, and lapis lazuli: of which the interior of its cupola
is composed of lapis lazuli, adorned with gilt bronze: wherein is to be
seen a statue of the Virgin, in a drapery of solid gold, with a crown upon
her head, composed of diamonds:--a massive golden crucifix, adorned with
precious stones--and upon which there is an inscription cut upon an emerald
an inch square: again, small altars, supported by columns of transparent
amethyst, &c.
I will say nothing of two little caskets, studded with cameos and
turquoises, in this chapel of fairy land--(built by Maximilian I.) of which
one contains two precious pictures by Jean d'Aix la Chapelle--and the other
(of massive gold, weighing twenty-four pounds) a painting of the
resurrection and of paradise, in enamel. Even the very organ is constructed
of gold, silver, ebony, turquois and lapis lazuli ornaments; of pearls and
of coral. As to the huge altar of massive silver--adorned with cariatides,
candelabra, statues, vases, and bouquets of the same metal--and especially
the _pix_, lined with diamonds, rubies, and pearls--what shall I say of
these--ALL the fruit of the munificent spirit of MAXIMILIAN? Truly, I
would pass over the whole with an indifferent eye, to gaze upon a simple
altar of pure gold--the sole ornament of the prison of the unfortunate Mary
Queen of Scots; which Pope Leo XI. gave to William V. Elector of
Bavaria--and which bears the following inscription:
EXILII COMES ET CARCERIS IMAGO
HAEC MARIAE STUARDAE, SCOT. REG.
FUIT, FUISSET ET CAEDIS, SI VIXISSET.
Not less marvellous things are told of the _Jewellery_ in this palace of
wonders:--among which the BLUE DIAMOND ... attached to the order of the
Golden Fleece--which is set open, and which, opposed to the sun, emits rays
of the most dazzling lustre,--is said to be the nonpareil of coloured
precious stones. It weighs 36 carats and 144 grains. Of the _Pearls_, that
called the PALATINAT, half white and half black, is considered the greatest
curiosity; but in a cabinet is preserved the choicest of all choice
specimens of precious art and precious metals. It is a statue of _St.
George and the Dragon_, of the height of about a foot and a half, in pure
and solid gold: the horse is agate: the shield is of enamelled gold: the
dragon is jasper: the whole being thickly studded with diamonds, rubies,
emeralds, and pearls--to the number of at least two thousand! Another
cabinet contains the crowns of emperors, dukes and.... But you are already
dazzled and bewildered; and I must break off the description of this
ENCHANTED PALACE.
What is of easy access is rarely visited. I asked several of my
acquaintance here, whether this spectacle were worth seeing?--and they as
frequently replied in the negative as in the affirmative. But the PICTURE
GALLERY I _have_ seen, and seen with attention;--although I am not likely
to pay it a second visit. I noted down what I saw: and paid particular
attention to the progress of art in the early German school of painting. I
knew that this collection had long enjoyed a great celebrity: that it had
been the unceasing object of several of the old Dukes of Bavaria to enrich
it; and that the famous Theodore, equally the admirer of books and of
pictures, had united to it the gallery of paintings collected by him at
Manheim. It moreover contained the united collections of Deux-Ponts and
Dusseldorf. This magnificent collection is arranged in seven large rooms on
the same floor. Every facility of access is afforded; and you observe,
although not so frequently as at Paris, artists at work in copying the
treasures before them. In the entrance-hall, where there is a good
collection of books upon the fine arts, are specimens by _Masaccio_,
_Garofalo_, _Ghirlandaio_, _Perugino_, _Lucas de Leyden_, _Amberger_,
_Wohlgemuth_, _Baldonetti, Aldegrave_, _Quinten Matsys_--with several
others, by masters of the same period, clearly denoting the order of time
in which they are supposed to have been executed. I was well pleased, in
this division of the old school, to recognise specimens of my old friends
Hans Burgmair and the Elder Holbein; and wished for no individual at my
elbow so much as our excellent friend W.Y. Ottley:--a profound critic in
works of ancient art, but more particularly in the early Italian and German
Schools.
To conduct you through all these apartments, or seven rooms, with the
methodical precision of an experienced guide, is equally beyond my
inclination and ability. Much as I may admire one or two _Titians_, one or
two of the _Caracci_ school, the same number of _Veroneses_ and
_Schidones_, and a partial sprinkling of indifferent _Raffaelles_, I should
say that the boast of this collection are the pictures by _Rubens and
Vandyke_. Of the former there are some excellent portraits; but his two
easel pictures--the one, the _Fall of the Damned_, and the other the
_Beatitude of the Good_--are marvellous specimens of art. The figures,
extending from heaven to earth, in either picture, are linked, or grouped
together, in that peculiarly bold and characteristic manner which
distinguishes the pencil of the master.[45] The colouring throughout is
fresh, but mellow and harmonious. Among the larger pictures by this
renowned artist, are _Susanna and the Elders_, and _the Death of Seneca_;
the latter considered as a distinguished production. But some of the whole
length portraits, by the same hand, pleased me better. The pictures of
Rubens occupy more particularly the fourth room. Vandyke shines in the
second, sixth, and seventh rooms: in which are some charming whole length
portraits--combining, almost, the dignity of Titian with the colouring of
Rembrandt:--and yet, more natural in expression, more elegant in attitude,
and more beautiful in drawing, than you will find in the productions of
either of these latter artists.
If the art, whether of sculpture or of painting, take not deep root, and
send forth lusty branches laden with goodly fruit, at Munich--the fault can
never be in the _soil_, but in the waywardness of the _plant_. There is
encouragement from every quarter; as far as the contemplation of art, in
all its varieties, and all its magnificence, can be said to be a stimulus
to exertion. When the re-action of a few dozen years of peace shall have
nearly obliterated the ravages and the remembrance of war--when commerce
and civil competition shall have entirely succeeded to exaction and tyranny
from a foreign force--(which it now holds forth so auspicious a promise of
accomplishing)--and when literature shall revert within its former fruitful
channels of enlightening the ignorant, gratifying the learned, and
illustrating what is obscure among the treasures of former times--then I
think Munich will be a proud and a flourishing city indeed.[46] But more of
this subject on a future occasion.
Let us take a walk abroad--in the fields, or in the immediate vicinity of
the town--for methinks we have both had sufficient in-door occupation of
late. One of the principal places of resort, in the immediate vicinity of
Munich, is a garden--laid out after the English fashion--and of which the
late Count Rumford had the principal direction. It is really a very
pleasing, and to my taste, successful effort of art--or rather adaptation
of nature. A rapid river, or rivulet (a branch of the _Iser_) of which the
colour is a hazy or misty blue, very peculiar--runs under a small bridge
which you pass. The bed of the river has a considerable descent, and the
water runs so rapidly, as to give you the idea that it would empty itself
in a few hours. Yet--"Labitur et labetur in omne volubilis aevum." I
strolled frequently in the shady walks, and across the verdant lawns, of
this pleasant garden; wherein are also arbour-covered benches, and
embowered retreats--haunts of meditation--where
... voices, through the void deep sounding, seize
Th'enthusiastic ear!
But SKELL must not be deprived of his share of praise in the construction
of this interesting pleasure ground. He was the principal active
superintendant; and is considered to have had a thorough knowledge of
_optical effect_ in the construction of his vistas and lawns. A Chinese
pagoda, a temple to Apollo--and a monument to Gessner, the pastoral
poet--the two latter embosomed in a wood--are the chief objects of
attraction on the score of art. But the whole is very beautiful, and much
superior to any thing of the kind which I have seen since leaving England.
I told you, at the beginning of this letter, that it was market-day when we
arrived here. Mr. Lewis, who loses no opportunity of adding to the stores
of his sketch book, soon transferred a group of MARKET PEOPLE to his paper,
of which you are here favoured with a highly finished copy. The
countenances, as well as the dresses, are strongly indicative of the
general character of the German women.
[Illustration]
I was surprised to be told, the other day, that the city of Munich,
although lying upon a flat, apparently of several miles in circumference,
is nevertheless situated upon very lofty ground:--full twelve or thirteen
hundred feet above the level of the sea--and that the snow-charged blasts,
from the Tyrolese mountains, towards the end of autumn, render it at times
exceedingly cold and trying to the constitution. But I must now revert to
the city, and proceed at once to an account of the most interesting of ALL
the public edifices at Munich--in my very humble, and perhaps capricious,
estimation. Of course you will instantly catch at what I mean. "What, BUT
the edifice which contains THE PUBLIC LIBRARY?" 'Tis wisely conjectured;
and to this boundless region of books, of almost every age and description,
let us instantly resort: first paying our respects to the Directors and
Librarians of the establishment.
Of the former, the BARON VON MOLL, and MR. FREDERIC SCHLICHTEGROLL are
among the principal: of the latter, Messrs. SCHERER and BERNHARD have the
chief superintendence: of all these gentlemen, more in my next.[47] At
present, suffice it to say, that I was constantly and kindly attended
during my researches by M. Bernhard--who proved himself in the frequent
discussions, and sometimes little controversies, which we had together, to
be one of the very best bibliographers I had met upon the continent. In the
bibliographical lore of the fifteenth century, he has scarcely a superior:
and I only regretted my utter ignorance of the German language, which
prevented my making myself acquainted with his treatises, upon certain
early Latin and German Bibles, written in that tongue. But it was his
kindness--his diffidence--his affability, and unremitting attention--which
called upon me for every demonstration of a sense of the obligations I was
under. It will not be easy for me to forget, either the kind-hearted
attentions or the bibliographical erudition of M. Bernhard ...
"Quae me cunque vocant terrae."
Be it known to you therefore, my good friend, that the PUBLIC LIBRARY at
MUNICH is attached to what was once the _College of Jesuits_; and to which
the beautiful church, described in a few preceding pages, belonged. On the
suppression of the order of Jesuits, the present building was devoted to it
by Charles Theodore in 1784: a man, who, in more than this one sense, has
deserved well of his country. Would you believe it? They tell me that there
are at least _half a hundred_ rooms filled by books and MSS. of one kind or
other--including duplicates--and that they suppose the library contains
nearer _four_, than _three hundred thousand volumes_! I scarcely know how
to credit this; although I can never forget the apparently interminable
succession of apartments--in straight lines, and in rectangular lines:
floor upon floor: even to the very summit of the building, beneath the
slanting roofs--such as I had seen at Stuttgart. But _here_ it should seem
as if every monastery throughout Bavaria had emptied itself of its
book-treasures ... to be poured into this enormous reservoir.
But I will now begin my labours in good earnest. An oblong, narrow,
boudoir-sort of apartment, contains the more precious MSS., the block
books, and works printed upon vellum. This room is connected with another,
at right angles, (if I remember well) which receives the more valuable
works of the fifteenth century--the number of which latter, alone, are said
to amount to nearly _twenty thousand_. In such a farrago, there must
necessarily be an abundance of trash. These, however, are how under a
strict assortment, or classification; and I think that I saw not fewer than
half a dozen assistants, under the direction of M. Bernhard, hard at work
in the execution of this desirable task.
LATIN MS. OF THE GOSPELS; _in small folio_. I have no hesitation in
ascribing this MS. to the ninth century. It is replete with evidences of
this, or even of an earlier, period. It is executed in capital letters of
silver and gold, about a quarter of an inch in height, upon a purple
ground. Of course the MS. is upon vellum. The beginning of the text is
entirely obliterated; but on the recto of the XVth leaf we read "_Explt
Breuiarium_."
LATIN MS. of the GOSPELS; in _large folio_. This is a more superb, but more
recent, MS. than the preceding. Yet I suspect it to be not much later than
the very early part of the eleventh century. It is executed in a large,
lower-case, roman letter: somewhat bordering upon the Gothic. But the
binding, at the very outset, is too singular and too resplendent to be
overlooked. The first side of it has the crucifixion, in a sort of
parallelogram frame work--in the centre: surrounded by a double arabesque,
or Greek border, of a most beautiful form. The whole is in ivory, of a
minute and surprisingly curious workmanship. The draperies partake of the
character of late Roman art. Round this central ivory piece of carving, is
a square, brass border, with the following inscription; which, from the
character of the capital letters, (for it is wholly composed of such) is
comparatively quite modern:
GRAMMATA QVI QVERIT COGNOSCERE VERE
HOC MATHESIS PLENE QVADRATVM PLAVDAT HABERE
EN QUI VERACES SOPHIE FULSERE SEQUACES
ORNAT PERFECTAM REX HEINRICH STEMMATE SECTAM.
In the outer border are precious stones, and portraits, with inscriptions
in Greek capital letters. These portraits and inscriptions seem to me to be
perfect, but barbarous, specimens of Byzantine art. Around the whole are
the titles of the Four Gospels in coeval capital letters. The general
effect of this first side of the book-cover, or binding, is perfect--for
antiquarian genuineness and costliness. The other side of the binding
contains representations of the cardinal virtues, in brass, with the lamb
in the centre: but they are comparatively modern. The interior of this book
does not quite accord with its exterior. It is in pure condition, in every
respect; but the art is rather feeble and barbarous. The titles to the
Gospels are executed upon a purple ground. The larger subjects, throughout
the illuminations, are executed with freedom, but the touch is heavy and
the effect weak. The gold back grounds are rather sound than resplendent.
Yet is this MS., upon the whole, a most costly and precious volume.
LATIN PSALTER. Probably of the latter part of the twelfth century. The text
is executed in a lower-case gothic. In the Calendar of Saints are found the
names of Edward the Martyr, Cuthbert, Guthlac, Etheldrith, and Thomas a
Becket. I think I am fully justified in calling this one of the richest,
freshest, and most highly ornamented PSALTERS in existence. The
illuminations are endless, and seem to comprise the whole history of the
Bible. In the representations of armour, we observe the semicircular and
slightly depressed helmet, and no nasels. I must now lay before you a MS.
of a very different description--called
The ROMANCE OF SIR TRISTRANT;[48] in verse. This ms. is wholly in the
German language; written in the XIIIth century, and containing fifteen
illuminations. M. Scherer, the Head Librarian, was so obliging as to
furnish me with an account of it; having himself translated, as literally
as possible, the original text into our own language.
I shall now put together a few miscellaneous notices, taken, like all the
preceding, from the articles themselves--and which you will find to relate
chiefly to books of Missals and Offices, &c. I shall begin, however, with a
highly illuminated MS. called
The TWELVE SIBYLS. This beautiful book is doubtless of the XVth century. It
begins with a representation of the "_Sibila Persica_." The principal merit
of these illuminations may, by some, be thought to consist in their
_freshness_; but others will not fail to remark, that the accompaniments of
these figures, such as the chairs on which they sit, and the pillars which
form the frame work of the pieces, are designed and executed in a style of
art worthy of the Florentine School of this period. Every Sibyl is
succeeded by a scriptural subject. If the faces of these figures were a
little more animated and intelligent, this book would be a charming
specimen of art of the XVth century. The _Erythraean Sibyl_ holds a white
rose very prettily in her left hand. The _Agrippinian Sibyl_ holds a whip
in her left hand, and is said "to have prophesied XXX years concerning the
flagellation of Christ." This volume is a thin quarto, in delightful
condition; bound in yellow morocco, but a _sufferer_ by the binding.
A CALENDAR. This is a pretty little duodecimo volume, containing also short
prayers to Christ; and embellished by a representation of the several
months in the calendar. Each illumination has a border, and its apposite
characteristic subject attached to the month. Among the latter, those of
October and November are vigorously touched and warmly finished. A picture
of the Deluge follows December. The scription is in a neat roman character.
This book is bound in lilac velvet, with silver clasps, and preserved in a
yellow morocco case.
OFFICE OF THE VIRGIN. An exquisite little octavo or rather duodecimo; bound
in silver, with coloured ornaments inlaid. The writing, in small roman,
shews an Italian calligraphist. The vellum is white, and of the most
beautiful quality. The text is surrounded by flowers, fruits, insects,
animals, &c. The initial letters are sparkling, and ornamented in the
arabesque manner. But the compositions, or scriptural subjects, are the
most striking. Among the more beautiful specimens of high finishing, is the
figure of Joseph--with the Virgin and Child--after the subject of the
Circumcision. Upon the whole, the colours are probably too vivid. The
subjects seem to be copies of larger paintings; and there is a good deal of
French feeling and French taste in their composition. The rogue of a binder
has shewn his love of cropping in this exquisite little volume. The date of
1574 is upon the binding.
MISSAL: beginning with the _Oratio devota ad faciem dni nostri ihu
xpi_--A most exquisite volume in 8vo.: bound in black fish skin, with
silver clasps of an exceedingly graceful form, washed with gold, and
studded with rubies, emeralds, and other coloured stones. The head of
Christ, with a globe in his hand, faces the beginning of the text. This
figure has a short chin, like many similar heads which I have seen: but the
colours are radiant, and the border, in which our Saviour is bearing his
cross, below, is admirably executed. The beginning of St. John's Gospel
follows. The principal subjects have borders, upon a gray or gold ground,
on which flowers are most beautifully painted: and some of the subjects
themselves, although evidently of Flemish composition, are most brilliantly
executed. There is great nature, and vigour of touch, in the priests
chanting, while others are performing the offices of religion. The
_Annunciation_ is full of tenderness and richness; and, in the _Christ in
the manger_--from whose countenance, while lying upon the straw, the light
emanates and shines with such beauty upon the face of the Virgin--we see
the origin perhaps of that effect which has conferred such celebrity upon
the NOTTE of CORREGIO. What gives such a thorough charm to this book, is,
the grace, airiness, and truth of the flowers--scattered, as it were, upon
the margins by the hand of a faery. They have perhaps suffered somewhat by
time: but they are truth and tenderness itself. The writing is a large
handsome square gothic.
OFFICE OF THE VIRGIN: bound in massive silver--highly ornamented, in the
arabesque manner, and washed with gold. The back is most ingeniously
contrived. But if the exterior be so attractive, the interior is not less
so--for such a sweetly, and minutely ornamented, book, is hardly to be
seen. The margins are very large and the text is very small: only about
fifteen lines, by about one inch and three quarters wide. Upon seeing the
margins, M. Scherer, the head-librarian, exclaimed, "I hope that satisfies
you!" But they are by no means disproportionate--and the extraordinary
colour and quality of the vellum render them enchanting. We come now to the
ornaments. These are clusters of small flowers, strung in a pearl-like
manner, and formed or grouped into the most pleasing and tasteful shapes.
The figures are small, with a well indicated outline. How pretty are the
little subjects at the foot of each month of the Calendar! And how totally
different from the common-place stiffness, and notorious dullness, of the
generality of Flemish pieces of this character! This book has no superior
of its kind in Europe; and is worthy, on a small scale, of what we see in
the superb folios of Matthias Corvinus.[49]
A BOOK OF PRAYERS--almost entirely spoilt by damp and rottenness within. I
should think, from the writing and illuminations, it was executed between
the years 1450 and 1480. The outside is here the principal attraction. It
is a very ancient massive binding, in silver. On each side is a sacred
subject; but on that, where the Crucifixion is represented, the figure to
the right has considerable expression. At the bottom of each compartment
are the arms of Bavaria and of the Dukes of Milan. This is a precious
treasure in its way.
The present is probably the proper place to notice the _principal gem_--in
the department of illuminated books of devotion--preserved in the Royal
Library at Munich:--I mean, what is called, ALBERT DURER'S PRAYER BOOK.
This consists merely of a set of marginal embellishments in a small folio
volume, of which the text, written in a very large lower-case gothic
letter, forms the central part. These embellishments are said to be by the
hand of ALBERT DURER: although, if I mistake not, there is a similar
production, or continuation, by LUCAS CRANACH. They are executed in colours
of bistre, green, purple, or pink; with a very small portion of shadow--and
apparently with a reed pen. Nothing can exceed the spirit of their
conception, the vigour of their touch, and the truth both of their drawing
and execution. They consist chiefly of _capriccios_, accompanied by the
figure or figures of four Saints, &c. They afford one addition to the very
many proofs, which I have already seen, of the surprising talents of Albert
Durer: and, if I remember rightly; this very volume has been lithographised
at Munich, and published in our own country.[50]
Descending lower in the chronological order of my researches, I now come to
the notice of four very splendid and remarkable folio volumes, comprising
only the text of the SEVEN PENITENTIAL PSALMS: and which exhibit
extraordinary proofs of the united skill of the _Scribe_, the _Musician_,
the _Painter_, and the _Book Binder_--all engaged in the execution of these
volumes. Of each of these artists, there is a PORTRAIT; but among them,
none please my fancy so much as that of GASPAR RITTER, the book-binder. All
these portraits are executed in body colour, in a slight but bold manner,
and appear to me to be much inferior to the general style of art in the
smaller and historical compositions, illustrative of the text of the book.
But Gaspar Ritter well merits a distinct notice; for these volumes display
the most perfect style of binding, which I have yet seen, of the sixteenth
century. They are in red morocco, variegated with colours, and secured by
clasps. Every thing about them is firm, square, knowing and complete. The
artist, or painter, to whom these volumes are indebted for their chief
attraction, was John MIELICH; a name, of which I suspect very little is
known in England. His portrait bears the date of 1570.
Looking fairly through these volumes--not for the sake of finding fault, or
of detecting little lapses from accuracy of drawing, or harmony of
composition--I do not hesitate one moment to pronounce the series of
embellishments, which they contain, perfectly unrivalled--as the production
of the same pencil. Their great merit consists in a prodigious freedom of
touch and boldness of composition. The colouring seems to be purposely made
subordinate. Figures the most minute, and actions the most difficult to
express, are executed in a ready, off-hand manner, strongly indicative, of
the masterly powers of the artist. The subjects are almost interminable in
number, and endless in variety.
I shall now proceed at once to an account of the xylographical productions,
or of BLOCK BOOKS in the public library of this place; and shall begin with
a work, of which (according to my present recollection) no writer hath yet
taken notice. It is a _Life of Christ_, in small quarto, measuring scarcely
five inches by four. The character of the type is between that of Pfister
and the Mazarine Bible, although rather more resembling the latter. Each
side of the leaf has text, or wood cut embellishments. The first eight
pages contain fifteen lines in a page: the succeeding two pages only
thirteen lines; but the greater number of the pages have fourteen lines.
It is precisely the dotted ground, in the draperies, that impresses me with
a notion of the antiquity of these cuts. Such a style of art is seen in all
the earlier efforts of wood engraving, such as the _St. Bernardinus_
belonging to M. Van-Praet, and the prints pasted within the covers of Mr.
George Nicol's matchless copy of the Mazarine Bible, upon vellum, in its
original binding.[51] M. Bernhard also shewed me, from his extraordinary
collection of early prints, taken from the old MS. volumes in this library,
several of this precise character; and to which we may, perhaps with
safety, assign the date of 1460 at the latest. I have been particular in
the account of this curious little volume, not so much because it is kept
in a case, and considered to be _unique_, as because, to the best of my
recollection, no account of it is to be found in any bibliographical
publication.
EXHORTATION AGAINST THE TURKS, &c.: of the supposed date of 1455. This is
the singular tract, of which Baron Aretin (the late head librarian of this
establishment) published an entire fac-simile; and which, from the date of
M.cccc.lv appearing at the bottom line of the first page, was conceived to
be of that period. M. Bernhard, however,--in an anonymous pamphlet--proved,
from some local and political circumstances introduced, or referred to, in
the month of _December_--in the Calendar attached to this exhortation--that
the _genuine_ date should rather be 1472. This brochure is also considered
to be unique. It is a small quarto, of six leaves only, of which the first
leaf is blank. The type is completely in the form of that of Pfister, and
the paper is unusually thick. At the bottom of the first leaf it is
observed, in ms. "_Liber eximiae raritatis et inter cimelia bibliothecae
asservandus. F. Er_."
ARS MEMORANDI, &c. Here are not fewer than _five copies_ of this well
known--and perhaps first--effort of block-book printing. These are of the
earliest dates, yet with trifling variations. The wood cuts in all the
copies are coloured; some more heavily than others; and in one of them you
observe, in the figure of St. Matthew, that red or crimson glossy wash, or
colour, so common in the earliest prints--and which is here carried over
the whole figure. One of these five copies is unbound.
ARS MORIENDI. Here are two editions, of which one copy is indisputably the
most ancient--like that in Lord Spencer's library,[52]--but of a
considerably larger size, in quarto. There can be no doubt of the whole of
this production being xylographical. Unluckily this fine copy has the first
and last pages of text in ms. The other pages, with blank-reverses, are
faintly impressed in brown ink: especially the first, which seems to be
injured. A double-line border is round each page. This copy, which is bound
in blue morocco, has also received injury from a stain. I consider the
second copy, which is bound in red morocco, to be printed with moveable
_metal_ types. The ink is however of a palish brown. I never saw another
copy of this latter impression.
BIBLIA PAUPERUM. _In Latin_. I doubt whether this be the first edition; but
at any rate it is imperfect. _In German_: with the date of 1470. Here are
two copies; of which I was anxious to obtain the duplicate (the largest and
uncoloured,) for the library in St. James's Place; but the value fixed upon
it was too high; indeed a little extravagant.
The APOSTLES CREED. _In German_. Only seven leaves, but pasted together--so
that, the work is an opistographised production. This is a very rare, and
indeed unique volume; and utterly unknown to bibliographers. Each cut is
about the same size, and there are twelve in the whole. There is no other
text but the barbarous letters introduced at the bottom of the cut.
MIRABILIA URBIS ROMAE. Another generally unknown xylographic performance;
printed in the German language: being a small quarto. I have secured a
duplicate of this singular volume for Lord Spencer's library, intending to
describe it in the _AEdes Althorpianae_.[53]
The LIFE OF ST. MEINRAT; _in German_, in a series of wood-cut
representations. This Saint was murdered by two men, whose Christian names
were Peter and Richard, and who were always afterwards haunted by a couple
of crows. There is a German introduction of two pages, preceding the cuts.
These cuts are forty-eight in number. At the thirtieth cut, the Saint is
murdered; the earlier series representing the leading events of his life.
The thirty-first cut represents the murderers running away; an angel being
above them; In the thirty-second cut, they continue to be pursued. The
thirty-third cut thus describes them; the German and the version being as
follow; "_Hie furt man die mord vo danne un wil schleisse vn
redern die rappen volget alle zit hin nach vn stechet sy_." "Here
they bring the murderers, in order to drag them upon the hurdle to
execution, and to break them upon the wheel. The crows follow and peck
them."
In the thirty-fourth cut Peter and Richard are tied and dragged at the
heels, of a horse. In the thirty-fifth they are broken upon the wheel.
The _Calendar of Regiomontanus_--A decidedly xylographical production; the
first date is 1475, the last 1525. A fine sound copy, but cropt. In a
duplicate copy the name of the mathematician is given at the end.
CANTICA CANTICORUM. First edition. A beautiful copy; cropt, but clean.
Sixteen cuts, uncoloured. The leaves have been evidently pasted together.
Another copy, coloured; but of a later date. In fine preservation. A third
copy; apparently the first edition; washed all over with a slight brown
tint, and again coarsely coloured in parts: This copy singularly enough, is
intermixed with portions of the first edition (as I take it) of the
_Apocalypse_: very clumsily coloured. A fourth copy, also, as I conceive,
of the first edition; rather heavily coloured. The back grounds are
uncoloured. This is larger than the other copies.
DEFENSIO IMMACULATAE CONCEPTIONIS B.M.V. _Without place; of the date of
1470_. This is a Latin treatise; having four cuts in each page, with the
exception of the first two pages, which exhibit only Saints Ambrose,
Austin, Jerom and Gregory. At the bottom of the figure of St. Austin,
second column, first page, it is thus written; "_f.w. 1470_." In the whole
sixteen pages. The style of art is similar to that used in the
Antichrist.[54] Of this tract, evidently xylographical, I never saw or
heard of another copy.
The foregoing list may be said to comprise the _chief rarities_ among the
BLOCK BOOKS in the Public Library at Munich; and if I am not mistaken, they
will afford no very unserviceable supplement to the celebrated work of
Heineken upon the same subject. From this department in the art of
printing, we descend naturally to that which is connected with metal types;
and accordingly I proceed to lay before you another list of
_Book-Rarities_--taken from the earlier _printed volumes_ in this most
extraordinary Library.
We will begin with the best and most ancient of all Books:--the BIBLE. They
have a very singular copy of what is called the _Mazarine edition_: or
rather the parent impression of the sacred text:--inasmuch as it contains
(what, I believe, no other copy in Europe contains, and therefore M.
Bernhard properly considers it as unique) _four printed leaves of a table_,
as directions to the Rubricator. At the end of the Psalter is a ms. note
thus: "_Explicit Psalterium, 61_." This copy is in other respects far from
being desirable, for it is cropt, and in very ordinary calf binding.
_Mentelin's German Bible_. Here are two copies of this first impression of
the Bible in the German language: both of which have distinct claims to
render them very desirable. In the one is an inscription, in the German
language, of which M. Bernhard supplied me with the following literal
version: "_Hector Mulich and Otilia his wife; who bought this Bible in the
year of Our Lord, 1466, on the twenty-seventh day of June, for twelve
florins_." Their arms are below. The whole is decidedly a coeval
inscription. Here, therefore, is another testimony[55] of the printing of
this Bible at least as early as the year 1466. At the end of the book of
Jeremiah, in the same copy, is a ms. entry of 1467; "_sub Papa Paulo
Secundo et sub Imperatore Frederico tertio_." The second copy of this
edition, preserved in the same library, has a German ms. memorandum,
executed in red ink, stating that this edition is "_well translated,
without the addition of a single word, faithful to the Latin: printed at
Strasbourg with great care_." This memorandum is doubtless of the time of
the publication of the edition; and the Curators of the library very
judiciously keep both copies.
A third, or triplicate copy, of Mentelin's edition--much finer than either
of the preceding--and indeed abounding with rough edges--was purchased by
me for the library in St. James's place; but it was not obtained for a sum
beneath its full value.[56]
Here is a copy of _Eggesteyn's Latin Bible_, containing forty-five lines in
a full page, with the important date of "_24th May, 1466_"--in a coeval ms.
memorandum. Thus, you see, here is a date two years earlier[57] than that
in a copy of the same Bible in the Public Library at Strasbourg; and I
think, from hence, we are well warranted in supposing that both Mentelin
and Eggesteyn had their presses in full play at Strasbourg in 1466--if not
earlier. This copy of Eggesteyn's first Bible, which is in its original
binding of wood, is as fine and large as it is precious.
I shall continue, miscellaneously, with the earlier printed books. _T.
Aquinas de Virtutibus et Vitiis_; printed by _Mentelin_ in his smallest
character. At the end, there is the following inscription, in faded green
ink; _Johannes Bamler de Augusta hui^9 libri Illuiator Anno 1468_. Thus
Bamler should seem to be an illuminator as well as printer,[58] and Panzer
is wrong in supposing that Bamler _printed_ this book. Of course Panzer
formed his judgment from a copy which wanted such accidental attestation.
_Ptolemy_, 1462: with all the maps, coloured. _Livy_ (1469): very fine--in
its original binding--full sixteen inches high. _Caesar_, 1469: very fine,
in the original binding. _Lucan_, 1469: equally fine, and coated in the
same manner. _Apuleius_, 1469: imperfect and dirty. The foregoing, you
know, are all EDITIONES PRINCIPES. But judge of my surprise on finding
neither the first edition of _Terence_, nor of _Valerius Maximus_, nor of
_Virgil_[59]--all by Mentelin. I enquired for the first _Roman_ or _Bologna
Ovid_: but in vain. It seemed that I was enquiring for "blue
diamonds;"[60]--so precious and rare are these two latter works.
Here are very fine copies of the _Philosophical works of Cicero, printed by
Ulric Han_--with the exception of the Tusculan Questions and the treatise
upon Oratory, of the dates of 1468, 1469--which are unluckily wanting. M.
Bernhard preserves _four_ copies of the _Euclid_ of 1482, because they have
printed variations in the margins. One of these copies has the prefix, or
preface of one page, printed in letters of gold. I saw another such a copy
at Paris. Here is the _Milan Horace of 1474_--the text only. The
_Catholicon by Gutenberg, of 1460_: UPON VELLUM: quite perfect as to the
text, but much cropt, and many pieces sliced out of the margins--for
purposes, which it were now idle to enquire after; although I have heard of
a Durandus of 1459 in our own country, which, in ancient times, had been so
served for the purpose of writing directions on parcels of game, &c.
_Catholicon of 1469 by G. Zeiner_; also UPON VELLUM, and equally cropt--but
otherwise sound and clean. This copy contains an ancient manuscript note
which must be erroneous; as it professes the first owner to have got
possession of the book before it was _printed_: in other words, an _unit_
was omitted in the date, and we should read 1469 for 1468.[61]
Among the more precious ITALIAN BOOKS, is a remarkably fine copy of the old
edition of the _Decameron of Boccaccio_, called the _Deo Gracias_--which
Lord Spencer purchased at the sale of the Borromeo library in London, last
year. It is quite perfect, and in a fine, large condition. It was taken to
Paris on a certain memorable occasion, and returned hither on an occasion
equally memorable. It contains 253 leaves of text and two of table; and has
red ms. prefixes. It came originally from the library of Petrus Victorius,
from which indeed there are many books in this collection, and was bought
by the King of Bavaria at Rome. What was curious, M. Bernhard shewed me a
minute valuation of this very rare volume, which he had estimated at 1100
florins--somewhere about L20. below the price given by Lord Spencer for his
copy, of which four leaves are supplied by ms. Here is a magnificent copy
of the _Dante of 1481_, with XX CUTS; the twentieth being precisely similar
to that of which a fac-simile appears in the B.S. This copy was _demanded_
by the library at Paris, and xix. cuts only were specified in the demand;
the twentieth cut was therefore secreted, from another copy--which other
copy has a duplicate of the first cut, pasted at the end of the preface.
The impressions of the cuts, in the copy under description, are worthy of
the condition of the text and of the amplitude of the margins. It is a
noble book, in every point of view.
I was shewn a great curiosity by this able bibliographer; nothing less than
a sheet, or _broadside_, containing _specimens of types from Ratdolf's
press_. This sheet is in beautiful preservation, and is executed in double
columns. The first ten specimens are in the _gothic_ letter, with a
gradually diminishing type. The last is thus:
_Hunc adeas mira quicunq: volumina queris
Arte uel ex animo pressa fuisse tuo
Seruiet iste tibi: nobis (sic) iure sorores
Incolumem seruet vsq: rogare licet._
This is succeeded by three gradually diminishing specimens of the printer's
_roman_ letter. Then, four lines of Greek, in the Jensonian or Venetian
character: next, in large black letter, as below.[62]
But a still greater curiosity, in my estimation, was a small leaf; by way
of _advertisement_, containing a list of publications issuing from the
press of a printer whose name has not yet been discovered, and attached
apparently to a copy of the _Fortalitium Fidei_; in which it was found.
Luckily there was a duplicate of this little broadside--or
advertisement--and I prevailed upon the curators, or rather upon M.
Bernhard (whose exclusive property it was) to part with this Sibylline
leaf, containing only nineteen lines, for a copy of the _AEdes Althorpianae--
_as soon as that work should be published.[63] Of course, this is secured
for the library in St. James's Place.
I am now hastening to the close of this catalogue of the Munich
book-treasures. You remember my having mentioned a sort of oblong cabinet,
where they keep the books PRINTED UPON VELLUM--together with block books,
and a few of the more ancient and highly illuminated MSS. I visited this
cabinet the first thing on entering--and the last thing on leaving--the
Public Library. "Where are your _Vellum Alduses_, good Mr. Bernhard?" said
I to my willing and instructive guide. "You shall see only _two_ of
them"--(rejoined he) but from these you must not judge of the remainder. So
saying, he put into my hands the _first editions of Horace and Virgil_,
each of 1501, and bound in one volume, in old red morocco. They were
gems--almost of the very first order, and--almost of their original
magnitude: measuring six inches and three eighths, by three inches and
seven eighths. They are likewise sound and clean: but the Virgil is not
equal to Lord Spencer's similar copy, in whiteness of colour, or beauty of
illumination. Indeed the illuminations in the Munich copy are left in an
unfinished state. In the ardour of the moment I talked of these two
precious volumes being worth "120 louis d'or." M.B. smiled gently, as he
heard me, and deliberately returned the volumes to their
stations--intimating, by his manner, that not thrice that sum should
dispossess the library of such treasures. I have lost my memoranda as to
the number of these vellum Alduses; but the impression upon my mind is,
that they have not more than _six_.
Of course, I asked for a VELLUM _Tewrdanckhs_ of 1517, and my guide
forthwith placed _two_ MEMBRANACEOUS copies of this impression before
me:--adding, that almost every copy contained variations, more or less, in
the text. Indeed I found M.B. "doctissimus" upon this work; and I think he
said that he had published upon it as well as Camus.[64] This is about the
ninety-ninth time that I have most sensibly regretted my utter ignorance,
of the language (German) in which it pleaseth M. Bernhard to put forth his
instructive bibliographical lucubrations. Of these two copies, one has the
cuts coloured, and is very little cropt: the other has the cuts uncoloured,
and is decidedly cropt.
With the Tewrdanckhs, I take my leave both of the public library of Munich
and (for the present) of its obliging and well-informed Second Librarian.
But I must not leave this WORLD OF BOOKS without imparting to you the
satisfaction which I felt on witnessing half a dozen grave-looking scribes
employed, chiefly under the direction of M. Bernhard, in making out a
classed catalogue of _Fifteeners_--preparatory to the sale of their
Duplicates. This catalogue will be important in many respects; and I hope
to see it in my own country within two years from the date of the present
epistle.[65]
And now methinks it is high time to put the concluding paragraph to this
said epistle--so charged with bibliographical intelligence respecting the
capital of Bavaria. You must give it more than _one_ perusal if you wish to
digest it thoroughly. My next, within forty-eight hours hereof, will leave
me on the eve of departure from hence. In the meanwhile, prepare for some
pleasant BOOK TIDINGS in my ensuing despatch.
[40] Both the nave and towers appear in Hartmann Schedel's view of Munich,
in the _Nuremberg Chronicle_ of 1493: see fol. ccxxvi. The
"pepper-box" terminations are, I conceive, of a later date.
[41] I take this to be the famous Albert who died in 1500; and who, in
Schedel's time, kept lions for his disport--at Munich: "qui sua
magnificentia plures nutrit leones" _Chron. Norimb._ 1493.
_Ibid._
[42] The steeple fell down in the year 1599, and has never been rebuilt.
[43] See p. 87 ante.
[44] See p. 66 ante.
[45] [Sir J. Reynolds criticised these pictures when they were in the
_Dusseldorf Gallery_: but I cannot just now lay my hand upon his
remarks.]
[46] [It has made, and is yet making, great strides towards the
accomplishment of the above-mentioned objects--since the above passage
was written.]
[47] [With the exception of the first, (although I do not make this
exception with _confidence_) all the above-named gentlemen have
CEASED TO EXIST. Mr. Bernhard I believe died before the publication of
the preceding edition of this work: and I add, with perfect sincerity,
that _his_ decease, and that of _M. Adam Bartsch_ (vide
post) were, to me, among the bitterest regrets which I ever
experienced in my intercourse with foreign literati.
[48] The able editor of the Romance of Sir TRISTREAM, ascribed to Thomas of
Ercildoune, appears to have been entirely ignorant of the existence of
this highly curious and coeval German version. I regret that I am
unable to give the reader a complete analysis of the whole.
From this account, I select the following very small portion--of
fidelity of version--with a fac-simile of one of the Embellishments.
So all his thoughts were wavering:
_Wilen abe vn wilent an_--
One while above, and one while down,
_Er tet wol an im selben schin_
He truly on himself made shew,
_Daz der minnende mot_
That an amorous mind behaves
_Reht als der vrie fogel tot_
Even as the bird in the open air,
_Der durch die friheit dier hat_
Who, by the liberty he enjoys,
_Vf daz gelimde twi gestat_
Slightly sits on the lime-twig down;
_Als er des limes danne entsebet_
As soon as he the lime descrys,
_Vnd er sieh vf ze fluhte hebet_
And rises up to fly in haste,
_So chlebet er mit den fossen an_.
His feet are clinging to the twig.
This simile of the bird seems expressed in the illumination, of which
the outline has been faithfully copied by Mr. Lewis:
[Illustration]
[49] See page 33 ante.
[50] It appeared in the year 1808, and was sold for 2l. 12s. 6d. But a
blank space was left in the middle--which, in the original, is
occupied by a heavy gothic text. The publication of the continuation
by Lucas Cranach appeared in 1818.
[51] Now in the Collection of Henry Perkins, Esq.
[52] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. xv-xxiii. where fac-similes
of some of the cuts will be found.
[53] Where it is fully described, in vol. ii. p. 188, &c. with fac-similes
of the type and ornaments. An entire page of it is given at p. 189.
[54] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. xxxi.
[55] A copy in the public library at Stuttgart has a ms. memorandum in
which the same dominical date is entered. See note, at page 21 ante.
[56] It must be mentioned, however, that a fine copy of the _German
edition of Breydenbach's Travels, of 1486_, was given into the
bargain.
[57] In the _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. i. p. 38-9--where a fac-simile of
the type of this edition is given--the impression is supposed to have
been executed in "the year 1468 at latest." The inscription of 1468 in
the Strasbourg copy (see vol. ii. p. 404.) should seem at least to
justify the caution of this conclusion. But, from the above, we are as
justified in assigning to it a date of at least two years earlier.
[58] Lord Spencer possesses a copy of _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_,
with the Commentary of Trivetus, printed by Mentelin, which was also
illuminated by Bamler in the same year as above--1468. The memorandum
to this effect, by Bamler, is given in the _AEdes Althorpianae_;
vol. ii. p. 20.
[59] I will not say _positively_ that the VIRGIL is _not_ there;
but I am pretty sure of the absence of the two preceding works. My
authority was, of course, the obliging and well informed M. Bernhard.
[60] See page 115 ante.
[61] The inscription is this: "_Anno dni Millesimo cccc^o lxviij^o.
Conparatus est iste Katholicon tpe Iohis Hachinger h^{9} ccclie p
tunc imeriti pptti. p. xlviij Aureis R flor^{9} taxatus p. H xxi
faciunt in moneta Vsuali xlvj t d_." So that it seems a copy of
this work, upon vellum, was worth at the time of its publication,
_forty-six golden florins_.
[62] _Indicis characterum diversarum manerieru impressioni
parataru: Finis. Erhardi Ratdolt Augustensis viri solertissimi:
preclaro ingenio & mirifica arte: qua olim Venetijs excelluit
celebratissimus. In imperiali nunc vrbe Auguste vindelicorum
laudatissime impressioni dedit. Annoq; salutis_ M.CCCC.LXXXXVI.
_Cale Aprilis Sidere felici compleuit_.
[63] An admirably executed fac-simile of the above curious document appears
in the work here referred to: vol. ii. p. 131--where the subject of
its probable printer is gone into at considerable length.
[64] The reader, if he have leisure and inclination, may consult a long
note in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. 201,
respecting the best authorities to be consulted upon the above very
splendid and distinguished performance. Camus is included in the list
of authorities referred to.
[65] Seven years have elapsed since the above was written, but no CLASSED
CATALOGUE of any portion of the Public Library of Munich has appeared
in this country. Speaking of _duplicates_, not printed in the
fifteenth century, it may be worth observing that they have at Munich
not fewer than six copies (double the number of those at Strasbourg;)
of the ACTA SANCTORUM; good handsome copies in vellum binding.
[Since the first edition of this Tour was published, several copies of
this stupendous, but unfortunately imperfect work, have been imported
into England: among which, however, none, to my recollection, have
found their way from MUNICH. Indeed, the heavy expense of carriage is
almost an interdiction: unless the copies were obtained at very
moderate prices.]
LETTER VI.
FURTHER BOOK-ACQUISITIONS. SOCIETY. THE ARTS.
The bright bibliographical star, which shone upon me at Stuttgart, has
continued to shine with the same benign lustre at this place. "[Greek:
_Heureka Heureka_]"!--the scarcest and brightest of all the ALDINE GEMS has
been found and secured by me: that gem, for which M. Renouard still
continues to sigh and to rave, alternately, in despair of a _perfect_ copy;
and which has, only very recently, been placed among the most brilliant
ornaments of the Royal Library at Paris.[66] What may these strange
exclamations and inuendos imply?--methinks I hear you say. You shall know
in a trice--which just brings me to the very point with which my previous
epistle concluded. Those "pleasant book-tidings," referred to in my last,
and postponed for the present opportunity, are "as hereafter followeth."
In my frequent conversations with the Guardians of the Public Library, I
learnt that one STOEGER, a bookseller chiefly devoted to the purchase and
sale of _Aldine_ volumes, resided in this metropolis; that his abode was
rather private than public; and that his "magasin" was lodged on the second
or third floor, in a row of goodly houses, to the right, on entering the
city. M. Bernhard added, that Mr. Stoeger had even a copy of the first
Aldine edition of the _Greek hours_ (printed in 1497)--which is the very
gem above alluded to; "but (observed my intelligent informant, as he
accompanied me to the door of the bookseller in question) "he will not part
with it: for both the Prince Royal and our Public Library have been
incessant in their importunities to possess it. He sets an extravagant
price upon it." Having been instructed from early youth, "never to take
that for _granted_ which remained to be _proved_," I thanked the worthy M.
Bernhard for his intelligence; and, wishing him a good morning, entered the
chamber of Mr. Stoeger.
I had previously heard (and think that I have before made mention) of the
eagerness with which the Prince Royal of Bavaria purchases _Alduses_; and
own, that, had I chosen to reflect one little minute, I might have been
sufficiently disheartened at any reasonable prospect of success, against
two such formidable opponents as the Prince and the Public Library.
However, in cases of emergency, 'tis better to think courageously and to
act decisively. I entered therefore the chamber of this Aldine bookseller,
resolved upon bearing away the prize--"coute qu'il coute"--provided that
prize were not absolutely destined for another. M. Stoeger saluted me
formally but graciously. He is a short, spare man, with a sharp pair of
dark eyes, and speaks French with tolerable fluency. We immediately
commenced a warm bibliographical discussion; when Mr. Stoeger, all of a
sudden, seemed to raise himself to the height of six feet--gave three
strides across the room--and exclaimed, "Well, Sir; the cabinet of my Lord
Spencer wants something which I possess in yonder drawer." I told him that
I knew what it was he alluded to; and, with the same decision with which I
seemed to bespeak the two Virgils at Stuttgart, I observed, that "_that_
want would soon cease; for that ere I quitted the room, the book in
question would doubtless become the property of the nobleman whom he had
just mentioned." Mr. Stoeger, for three seconds, was lost in astonishment:
but instinctively, as it were; he approached the drawer: opened it: and
shewed me an unbound, sombre-looking, but sound and perfect copy of the
_first edition_ of the GREEK HOURS, _printed by Aldus_.
As I had among my papers a collation of the perfect copy at Paris, I soon
discovered that Mr. Stoeger's copy was also complete; and ... in less than
fifteen minutes I gained a _complete victory_ over the Prince Royal of
Bavaria and the corps bibliographique of Messrs. Von Moll, Schlichtegroll,
Scherer, Bernhard, &c.--the directors and guardians of the Public Library
at Munich. In other words, this tiny book, measuring not quite four inches,
by not quite three, was _secured_--for the cabinet in question--at the
price of * * florins!! The vender, as I shrewdly suspect, had bought it of
a brother bookseller at Augsbourg,[67]of the name of KRANSFELDER (a worthy
man; whom I visited--but with whom I found nothing but untransportable
Latin and German folios) for ... peradventure only the _hundredth part_ of
the sum which he was now to receive. What shall we say? The vender is
designated by Mr. Schlichtegroll, in the preface of the last sale catalogue
of the duplicates of the Public Library (1815, 8vo.) as "bibliopola
honestissimus"--and let us hope that he merits the epithet. Besides, books
of this excessive rarity are objects of mere caprice and fancy. To return
to this "bibliopola honestissimus," I looked out a few more tempting
articles, of the Aldine character,[68] and receiving one or two as a
douceur; in the shape a present, settled my account with Mr. Stoeger ...
and returned to my lodging more and more confirmed in the truth of the
position of "not taking _that_ for granted which remained to be _proved_."
The whole of this transaction was, if I may so speak, in the naughty vanity
of my heart, a sort of _octodecimo_ illustration of the "VENI, VIDI, VICI"
of a certain illustrious character of antiquity.
Of a very different character from this _Aldine bibliopolist_ is a
bookseller of the name of VON FISCHHEIM: the simplest, the merriest, the
most artless of his fraternity. It was my good friend Mr. Hess (of whom I
shall presently speak somewhat more at large) who gave me information of
his residence. "You will find there (added he) all sorts of old books, old
drawings, pictures, and curiosities." What a provocative for an immediate
and incessant attack! I took my valet with me--for I was told that Mr. Von
Fischheim could not speak a word of French--and within twenty minutes of
receiving the information, found myself in the dark and dreary premises of
this same bibliopolist. He lives on the first floor; but the way thither is
almost perilous. Mr. Fischheim's cabinet of curiosities was crammed even to
suffocation; and it seemed as if a century had elapsed since a vent-hole
had been opened for the circulation of fresh air. I requested the favour of
a pinch of snuff from Mr. Fischheim's box, to counteract all unpleasant
sensations arising from effluvia of a variety of description--but I
recommend English visitors in general to _smoke a segar_ while they rummage
among the curiosities of Mr. Fischheim's cabinet! Old Tom Hearne might
here, in a few minutes, have fancied himself ... any thing he pleased!
The owner of these miscellaneous treasures wore one unvarying smile upon
his countenance during the whole time of my remaining with him. He saw me
reject this, and select that; cry "pish" upon one article, and "bravo" upon
another--with the same settled complacency of countenance. His responses
were short and pithy, and I must add, pleasant: for, having entirely given
up all hopes of securing any thing in the shape of a good picture, a good
bust, or a genuine illumination from a rich old MS., I confined myself
strictly to printed books--and obtained some very rare, precious, and
beautifully-conditioned volumes upon most reasonable and acceptable
terms.[69] Having completed my purchase, the books were sent to the hotel
by a shopman, in the sorriest possible garb, but who wore, nevertheless, a
mark of military distinction in his button-hole. From henceforth I can
neither think, nor speak, but with kindness of Paul Ludwig Von Fischheim,
the simplest, the merriest, and most artless of his fraternity.
The day following this adventure, I received a note informing me that a
person, practising physic, but also a collector and seller of old books,
would be glad to see me in an adjoining street. He had, in particular, some
"RARE OLD BIBLES." Another equally stimulant provocative! I went, saw,
and... returned--with scarcely a single trophy. Old Bibles there were--but
all of too recent a date: and all in the _Latin_ language. Yet I know not
how it was, but I suffered myself to be prevailed upon to give some twenty
florins for a doubtfully-printed _Avicenna_, and a _Biblia Historica
Moralisata_. Had I yielded to further importunities, or listened to further
information, I might have filled the large room in which I am now
sitting--and which is by much the handsomest in the hotel[70]--with
oak-bound folios, vellum-clad quartos, and innumerable broadsides. But I
resisted every entreaty: I had done sufficient--at least for the first
visit to the capital of Bavaria.
And doubtless I have good reason to be satisfied with these Bavarian
book-treasures. There they all lie; within as many strides of me as Mr.
Stoeger took across the room; while, more immediately within reach, and
eyed with a more frequent and anxious look, repose the _Greek Hours_, the
_first Horace_, the _Mentelin German Bible_, and the _Polish Protestant
Bible_; all--ALL destined for the cabinet of which Mr. Stoeger made such
enthusiastic mention.
A truce now to books, and a word or two about society. I arrived here at a
season when Munich is considered to be perfectly empty. None of the
noblesse; no public gaieties; no Charge d'Affaires--all were flown, upon
the wings of curiosity or of pleasure towards the confines of Italy. But as
my business was rather with Books and bookmen, I sought chiefly the society
of the latter, nor was I disappointed. I shall introduce them one by one.
First therefore for the BARON VON MOLL; one of the most vivacious and
colloquial of gentlemen; and who perhaps has had more to do with books than
any one of his degree in Bavaria. I know not even if he have not had two or
more monastic libraries to dispose of--which descended to him as ancestral
property. I am sure he talked to me of more than one chateau, or country
villa, completely filled with books; of which he meditated the disposal by
public or private sale. And this, too--after he had treated with the
British Museum through the negotiation of our friend the Rev. Mr. Baber,
for two or three thousand pounds worth of books, comprehending, chiefly, a
very valuable theological collection. The Baron talked of twenty thousand
volumes being here and there, with as much sang-froid and certainty as
Bonaparte used to talk of disposing of the same number of soldiers in
certain directions.
The other Sunday afternoon I accompanied him to one of his villas, in the
direct road from Munich--near which indeed I had passed in my route hither.
Or, rather, speaking more correctly the Baron accompanied me:--as he
bargained for my putting a pair of post-horses to my carriage. He wished me
to see his books, and his rural domain. The carriage and burden were
equally light, and the road was level and hard. We therefore reached the
place of our destination in a short hour. It was a very pleasant mansion,
with a good garden, and several fertile fields of pasture and arable land.
The Baron made it his summer residence. His books filled the largest room
in the house. He invited me to look around, to select any volumes that I
might fancy, provided they were not grammatical or lexicographical--for, in
that department, he never wished his strength to be diminished, or his
numbers to be lessened. I did as he desired me: culled a pretty
book-posey;--not quite so blooming as that selected at Lincoln,[71] some
dozen years ago,--and, as the sun was setting, voted the remainder of the
evening, till supper-time, to a walk with the Baron upon the neighbouring
heights.
The evening was fair and mild, and the Baron was communicative and
instructive. His utterance is rapid and vehement; but with a tone of voice
and mode of action by no means uninteresting. We talked about the
possession of Munich by the French forces, under the command of Moreau, and
he narrated some particulars equally new and striking. Of Moreau, he spoke
very handsomely; declaring him to have been a modest, grave, and sensible
man--putting his great military talents entirely out of the question. The
Baron himself, like every respectable inhabitant of Munich, was put under
military surveillance. Two grenadiers and a petty officer were quartered
upon him. He told me a curious anecdote about Bonaparte and Marshal
Lasnes--if I remember rightly, upon the authority of Moreau. It was during
the crisis of some great battle in Austria, when the fate of the day was
very doubtful, that Bonaparte ordered Lasnes to make a decisive movement
with his cavalry; Lasnes seemed to hesitate. Bonaparte reiterated the
order, and Lasnes appeared to hesitate again--as if doubting the propriety
of the movement. Bonaparte eyed him with a look of ineffable contempt; and
added--almost fixing his teeth together, in a hissing but biting tone of
sarcasm--"_Est-ce que je t'ai fait trop riche?_" Lasnes dashed his spurs
into the sides of his charger, turned away, and prepared to put the command
of his master into execution.
So much for the Baron Von Moll. The name of SCHLICHTEGROLL was frequently
mentioned in my last letter. It is fitting, therefore, that you should know
something of the gentleman to whom this name appertains. Mr. F.
Schlichtegroll is the Director in Chief of the Public Library at Munich. I
was introduced to him in a room contiguous to that where they keep their
models of public buildings--such as bridges, barriers, fortifications, &c.
which are extremely beautiful and interesting. The director received me in
the heartiest manner imaginable; and within five minutes of our first
salutation, I found his arm within my own, as we walked up and down the
room--discoursing about first editions, block-books, and works printed upon
vellum. He was delighted to hear of my intention to make a vigorous attack,
with pen, ink, and paper, upon the oblong cabinet of _Fifteeners_ and
precious MSS. of which my last letter made especial mention; and promised
to afford me every facility which his official situation might command.
Unluckily for a more frequent intercourse between us, which was equally
wished by both parties, the worthy Director was taken ill towards the
latter part of my stay;[72]--not however before I had visited him twice,
and been his guest attended by a numerous party.
Mr. SCHERER is the third figure upon this bibliographical piece of canvass,
of which I deem it essential to give you a particular description. He is
very hearty, very alert in the execution of his office, and is "all over
English" in his general appearance and manner of conduct. He is learned in
oriental literature; is a great reader of English Reviews; and writes our
language with fluency and tolerable correctness. He readily volunteered his
kind offices in translating the German ms. of _Sir Tristrem_, of which my
last letter made mention--and I have been indebted to him upon every
occasion, wherein I have solicited his aid, for much friendly and much
effectual attention. He has, luckily for his own character, vouchsafed to
_dine_ with me; although it was with difficulty I could prevail upon him so
to do, and for him to allow me to dine at the protracted hour of _four_.
After dinner, it was with pleasure,--when surrounded by all the
book-treasures, specified in the early part of this letter, and which were
then lying in detached piles upon the floor[73]--I heard Mr. Scherer
expatiate upon the delight he felt in taking a trip, every summer or
autumn, among the snow-capt mountains of the Tyrol; or of burying his
cares, as well as changing his studies and residence, by an excursion along
the lakes and mountains of Switzerland. "When that season arrives (added
he--stretching forth both arms in a correspondently ardent manner) I fly
away to these grand scenes of silence and solitude, and forget the works of
man in the contemplation of those of nature!" As he spake thus, my heart
went a good way with him: and I could not but express my regret that London
was not situated like the capital of Bavaria.
Of Mr. BERNHARD, the sub-librarian, I have already spoken frequently; and
in a manner, I trust, to shew that I can never be insensible either of his
acquirements or his kindness. He has one of the meekest
spirits--accompanied by the firmest decision--which ever marked the human
character; and his unconsciousness both of the one and of the other renders
his society the more delightful.
A temporary farewell to Bibliography, and to Bibliographers. You may
remember that I introduced the name of Hess, in a former part of this
letter; with an intention of bringing the character, to whom it belonged,
at a future period before your notice. You will be gratified by the mention
of some particulars connected with him. Mr. Hess has passed his grand
climacteric; and is a Professor of Design, but more especially a very
distinguished Engraver. His figure, his manner of conversation, his
connections, and his character, are all such--as to render it pleasing to
find them combined with a man of real talent and worth. I had brought with
me, from England, a drawing or copy of one of the original portraits at
Althorp--supposed to be painted by Anthony More--with a view of getting it
engraved abroad. It is very small, scarcely four inches square. I had shewn
it at Paris to Lignon, who _modestly_ said he would execute it in his very
best manner, for 3000 francs! M. Hess saw it--and was in extacies. "Would I
allow him to engrave it?" "Name your price." "I should think about
thirty-five guineas." "I should think (replied I) that that sum would
entitle me to your best efforts." "Certainly; and you shall have
them"--rejoined he. I then told him of the extravagance of Lignon. He felt
indignant at it. "Not (added he) that I shall execute it in _his_ highly
finished manner." I immediately consigned the precious portrait into his
hands--with a written agreement to receive the engraving of it next year,
at the stipulated sum.[74]
Thus you see I have set Mr. Hess to work in my absence--when I quit
Munich--which will be to-morrow, or the following day at farthest. This
worthy artist won upon me at every interview. His dress and address were
truly gentlemanly; and as he spoke the English language as well as he did
the French, we were of course glad to renew our visits pretty frequently.
His anxiety to promote my views, and to afford my companion every
assistance in his power, connected with the Fine Arts, will be long and
gratefully remembered by us.[75] But Mr. NOCKHER shall not be passed over
"sub silentio." He is a banker; and I found another FRANCS in the
promptitude and liberality of his offers of pecuniary supply. He, together
with Mr. Hess, has tasted the best red wine, at my humble table, that the
_Schwartzen Adler_ can afford; and I have quaffed his souchong, in society
in which I should like to have mingled again and again. The subjects of
pictures and prints occupied every moment of our time, and almost every
word of our discussion; and Mr. Nockher shewed me his fine impression of
the _Dresden Raphael_, in a manner that proved how perfectly well he was
qualified to appreciate the merits of the graphic art. That print, you
know, is considered to be the masterpiece of modern art; and it is also
said that the engraver--having entirely finished every portion of it--did
NOT LIVE TO SEE A FINISHED PROOF. Mr. Nockher bought it for some three or
four napoleons, and has refused twenty for it. I own that, to my eye, this
print has more power, expression, and I may say colouring, than almost any
which I remember to have seen. The original is in the second, or darker
style of colouring, of the master; and this engraving of it is as perfect a
copy of the manner of the original, as that by Raphael Morghen of the last
Supper of Leonardo da Vinci--so celebrated all over Europe.
Mr. Nockher is both a good-natured man, and a man of business; and the
facility and general correctness of his mode of speaking the English
language, renders a communication with him very agreeable. He has
undertaken to forward all my book-purchases to England--with the exception
of a certain _little Greek duodecimo_, which has taken a marvellous fancy
to be the travelling companion of its present master. Mr. Nockher also
promises to forward all future book-purchases which I may make--and which
may be directed for him at Munich--on to England. Thus, therefore--when I
quit this place--I may indulge a pleasing anticipation of the future,
without any anxieties respecting the past.[76]
And now fare you well. Within twenty-four hours I start from hence, upon
rather a _digressive_ excursion; and into which the Baron Von Moll and M.
Schlichtegroll have rather coaxed, than reasoned, me. I am to go from hence
to _Freysing_ and _Landshut_--and then diverge down, to the right, upon
_Salzburg_--situated 'midst snow-clad mountains, and containing a LIBRARY
within the oldest monastery in Austria. I am to be prepared to be equally
struck with astonishment at the crypt of Freysing, and at the tower of
Landshut--and after having "revelled and rioted" in the gloomy cloisters
and sombre apartments of St. Peter's monastery, at Salzburg, I am
instructed to take the _Lake of Gmunden_ in my way to the _Monastery of
Chremsminster_--in the direct route to Lintz and Vienna. A world of variety
and of wonder seems therefore to be before me; and as my health has been
recently improved, from the comparatively cool state of the weather, I feel
neither daunted nor depressed at the thought of any difficulties, should
there be any, which may await me in the accomplishment of this journey. My
next, God willing, will assuredly be from Salzburg--when I shall have
rested awhile after a whirl of some two hundred miles.
[66] [See vol. ii. p. 147. Renouard, _L'Imprim. des Alde_, vol. i.
36-7. There are however, NOW, I believe, in this country, FIVE copies
of this very rare book; of which four are perfect.]
[67] The copy in question had, in 1595, been the property of F. Gregorius,
prior of the monastery of Sts. Ulric and Afra at Augsbourg: as that
possessor's autograph denotes.
[68] The principal of these "tempting articles" were a fine first
_Statius_ of 1502, _Asconius Pedianus_, 1522. _Cicero de
Officiis_, 1517, and _Leonicerus de Morbo Gallico_--with the
leaf of errata: wanting in the copy in St. James's Place. But perhaps
rarer than either, the _Laurentius Maoli_ and _Averrois_,
each of 1497--intended for _presents_. But Mr. Stoeger had
forgotten these intended presents--and _charged_ them at a good
round sum. I considered his word as his bond--and told him that honest
Englishmen were always in the habit of so considering the words of
honest Germans. I threatened him with the return of the whole cargo,
including even the beloved _Greek Hours_. Mr. Stoeger seemed
amazed: hesitated: relented: and adhered to his original position. Had
he done otherwise, I should doubtless have erased the epithet
"honestissimus," in all the copies of the sale catalogue above alluded
to, which might come within my notice, and placed a marginal
emendation of "avidissimus."
[69] It may be a novel, and perhaps gratifying, sight to the reader to
throw his eye over a list (of a few out of the fifty articles) like
the following:
_Flor. Kreutz.
Liber Moralizat. Biblic. Ulm_. 1474. Folio. Fine copy 11
_Biblia Vulg. Hist. Ital. Venet._ Giunta 1492. Fol. 8
_Horatius. Venet._ 1494. 4to. Fig. lig. incis. 11
_Cronica del rey don Iuan_. _Sevilla_. 1563. 4to. 11
_Breviarium. Teutonice_. 4to. In MEMBRANIS. A
most beautiful and spotless book. It contains
only the Pars Hyemalis of the cathedral service. 11
_Dictionarium Pauperum_. _Colon_. 1504. 8vo. 1
_Pars quart. Ind. Orient. Francof_. 1601. 5 30
_Fabulae AEsopicae_. _Cura Brandt_. 1501. Folio.
Perhaps a matchless copy; in original binding
of wood. Full of cuts 55
Thirteen different opuscula, at one florin each;
many very curious and uncommon 13
The Lord's Prayer and Creed--in the German
language--printed by "_Fricz Crewsner_," in
1472: folio: _broadside_. Perhaps UNIQUE 22
The florin, at the time of my residence at Munich, was about 1s. 9d.
[70] [However severely I may have expressed myself in a preceding page
(105) of the general condition of this huge Inn, yet I cannot but gaze
upon the subjoined view of it with no ordinary sensation of delight
when I remember that the three-windowed room, on the first floor, to
the right--close to the corner--was the room destined to be graced by
the BOOK TREASURES above mentioned. This view may also serve as a
general specimen of the frontage of the larger Inns in Bavaria.]
[Illustration]
[71] [All the _book-world_ has heard mention of THE LINCOLNE NOSEGAY,
--a small handful of flowers, of choice hues, and vigorous stems,
culled within the precincts of one of the noblest cathedrals in
Europe. Neither Covent Garden at home, nor the Marche aux Fleurs at
Paris, could boast of such a posey. I learn, however, with something
approaching to horror, that the Nosegay in question has been
counterfeited. A _spurious_ edition (got up by some unprincipled
speculator, and, I must add, bungling hand--for the typographical
discrepancy is obvious) is abroad. Roxburghers, look well to your
book-armouries! The foe may have crept into them, and exchanged your
steel for painted wood.]
[72] There is something so hearty and characteristic in the Director's last
letter to me, that I hope to be pardoned if I here subjoin a brief
extract from it. "M. Scherer vient me quitter, et m'annoncer que votre
depart est fixe pour demain. Jamais maladie--auxquelles, heureusement,
je suis tres rarement expose--m'est survenu aussi mal-a-propos qu'a
cette fois-ci. J'avois compte de jouir encore au moins quelques jours,
apres mon retablissement, de votre entretien, et jetter les fondemens
d'une amitie collegiale pour la future. La nouvelle, que M. Scherer
m'apporte, me desole. J'avois forme le plan de vous accompagner pour
voir quelqu'uns de nos Institutions remarquables, principalement _La
Lithographie_, "Vana Somnia!" Votre resolution de quitter Munich
plutot que je n'avois pense, detruit mes esperances. N'est-ce-pas
possible que vous passiez par Munich a votre retour de Vienne? Utinam!
Combien de choses restent, sur lesquelles j'esperais de causer et de
traiter avec vous! "I bono alite: pede fausto."
[Autograph]
[The author of this Letter is NO MORE!]
[73] See the note, p. 157 ante.
[74] This Engraving appears in the _AEdes Althorpianae_, vol. i. p. 246.
On my return to England, it was necessary to keep up a correspondence
with the amiable and intelligent character in question. I make no
apology, either to the reader, or to the author of the Epistle, for
subjoining a copy of one of these letters--premising, that it relates
to fac-similes of several old copper cuts in the Public Library at
Munich, as well as to his own engraving of the above-mentioned
portrait. There is something throughout the whole of this letter so
hearty, and so thoroughly original, that I am persuaded it will be
perused with extreme gratification:
_Munich, 17 May, 1819._
Dear and Reverend Sir;
I am a good old fellow, and a passable engraver; but a very bad
Correspondent. You are a ... and minister of a religion which forgive
all faults of mankind; and so I hope that you will still pardon me the
retardation of mine answer. I am now 65 years old, and have never had
any sickness in mine life, but I have such an averseness against
writing, that only the _sight_ of an ink-horn, pen and paper,
make me feeling all sort of fevers of the whole medicinal
faculty;--and so I pray that you would forgive me the brevity of mine
letters. Following your order, I send you jointly the first proof
prints of those plates still (already) finished. The plate of that
beautiful head of an English artist, is not yet so far advanced; but
in about six weeks you will have it--and during this time, I expect
your answer and direction to whom I shall deliver the whole. I wish
and hope heartily that the fac-similes and portraits would be
correspondent with your expectation.
I hold it for necessary and interesting, to give you a true copy of
that old print--"_Christ in the lap of God the Father_." You'll
see that this print is cutten round, and carefully pasted upon another
paper on a wooden band of a book: which proves not only a high respect
for a precious antiquity, but likewise that this print is much older
than the date of 1462--which is written in red ink, over the cutten
outlines, of that antique print. You may be entirely assured of the
fidelity of both fac-similes. Now I pray you heartily to remember my
name to our dear Mr. Lewis, with my friendliest compliments, and told
him that the work on _Lithography_ is now finished, and that he
shall have it by the first occasion. In expectation of your honorable
answer, I assure you of the highest consideration and respect of
Your most obedient humble Servant,
[Autograph]
[75] [This GRAPHIC WORTHY now _ceases to exist_. He died in his
seventy-first year--leaving behind, the remembrance of virtues to be
reverenced and of talents to be imitated.]
[76] [Another OBITUARY presses closely upon the preceding--but an Obituary
which rends one's heart to dwell upon:--for a kinder, a more diligent,
and more faithful Correspondent than was Mr. Nockher, it has never
been my good fortune to be engaged with. Almost while writing the
_above_ passage, this unfortunate gentleman ... DESTROYED
himself:--from embarrassment of circumstances!]
LETTER VII.
FREYSING. LANDSHUT. ALTOeTING. SALZBURG. THE MONASTERY OF ST. PETER.
_Salzburg; Golden Ship, Aug. 23, 1818._
MY DEAR FRIEND;
If ever I wished for those who are dear to me in England, to be my
companions during any part of this "_antiquarian_ and _picturesque_ tour,"
(for there are comparatively few, I fear, who would like to have been
sharers of the "_bibliographical_" department of it) it has been on the
route from Munich to this place: first, darting up to the north; and
secondly, descending gradually to the south; and feasting my eyes, during
the descent, upon mountains of all forms and heights, winding through a
country at once cultivated and fertile, and varied and picturesque. Yes, my
friend, I have had a glimpse, and even more than a glimpse, of what may be
called ALPINE SCENERY: and have really forgotten Fust, Schoeffher, and
Mentelin, while contemplating the snow-capt heights of the _Gredig_,
_Walseberg_, and _Untersberg_:--to say nothing of the _Gross Klokner_,
which raises its huge head and shoulders to the enormous height of 12,000
feet above the level of the sea.
These be glorious objects!--but I have only gazed; and, gazed at a distance
of some twenty or thirty miles. Surrounded as I am, at this moment,--in one
of the most marvellous and romantic spots in Europe--in the vicinity of
lakes, mountain-torrents, trout-streams, and salt-mines,--how can you
expect to hear any thing about MSS. and PRINTED BOOKS? They shall not,
however, be _wholly_ forgotten; for as I always endeavour to make my
narrative methodical, I must of necessity make mention of the celebrated
library of INGOLDSTADT, (of which Seemiller has discoursed so learnedly in
a goodly quarto volume,) now, with the University of the same place,
transferred to LANDSHUT--where I slept on the first night of my departure
from Munich.
A secret, but strong magnetic power, is pulling me yet more southerly,
towards _Inspruck_ and _Italy_. No saint in the golden legend was ever more
tortured by temptation, than I have been for the last twenty-four hours ...
with the desire of visiting those celebrated places. Thrice has some
invisible being--some silver-tongued sylph--not mentioned, I apprehend, in
the nomenclature of the Rosicrusian philosophy, whispered the word ...
"ROME ..." in mine ear--and thrice have I replied in the response...
"VIENNA!" I am therefore firmly fixed: immoveably resolved ... and every
southerly attraction shall be deserted for the capital of Austria: having
determined to mingle among the Benedictin and Augustin monks of
_Chremsminster_, _St. Florian_, and _Moelk_--and, in the bookish treasures
of their magnificent establishments, to seek and obtain something which may
repay the toil and expense of my journey.
But why do I talk of monastic delights only in _contemplation_? I have
_realized_ them. I have paced the cloisters of St. Peter's, the
mother-convent of Austria: have read inscriptions, and examined ornaments,
upon tombstones, of which the pavement of these cloisters is chiefly
composed: have talked bad Latin with the principal, and indifferently good
French with the librarian--have been left alone in the library--made
memoranda, or rather selected books for which a _valuable consideration_
has been proposed--and, in short, fancied myself to be thoroughly initiated
in the varieties of the Bavarian and Austrian characters. Indeed, I have
almost the conceit to affirm that this letter will be worth both postage
and preservation.
Let me "begin at the beginning." On leaving Munich, I had resolved upon
dining at Freysingen, or _Freysing_; as well to explore the books of Mr.
Mozler, living there--and one of the most "prying" of the bibliopolistic
fraternity throughout Germany--as to examine, with all imaginable
attention, the celebrated Church to which a monastery had been formerly
attached--and its yet more celebrated _Crypt_. All my Munich friends
exhorted me to descend into this crypt; and my curiosity had been not a
little sharpened by the lithographic views of it (somewhat indifferently
executed) which I had seen and purchased at Munich. Some of my Munich
friends considered the crypt of Freysing to be coeval with Charlemagne.
This was, at least, a very romantic conjecture.
The morning was gray and chill, when we left the _Schwartzen Adler_; but as
we approached Garching, the first stage, the clouds broke, the sun shone
forth, and we saw Freysing, (the second stage) situated upon a commanding
eminence, at a considerable distance. In our way to Garching, the river
Iser and the plains of Hohenlinden lay to the right; upon each of which, as
I gazed, I could not but think alternately of MOREAU and CAMPBELL. You will
readily guess wherefore. The former won the memorable battle of
Hohenlinden--fought in the depth of winter--by which the Austrians were
completely defeated, and which led to the treaty of Luneville: and the
latter (that is, our Thomas Campbell) celebrated that battle in an
_Ode_--of which I never know how to speak in sufficient terms of
admiration: an ode, which seems to unite all the fire of Pindar with all
the elegance of Horace; of which, parts equal Gray in sublimity, and
Collins in pathos.
We drove to the best, if not the only, Inn at Freysing; and, ordering a
late dinner, immediately visited the cathedral;--not however without taking
the shop of Mozler, the bookseller, in our way, and finding--to my
misfortune--that the owner was absent on a journey; and his sister, the
resident, perfectly ignorant of French. We then ascended towards the
cathedral, which is a comparatively modern building; at least every thing
_above_ ground is of that description. The CRYPT, however, more than
answered my expectations. I should have no hesitation in calling it
perfectly unique; as I have neither seen, nor heard, nor read of any thing
the least resembling it. The pillars, which support the roof, have monsters
crawling up their shafts--devouring one another, as one sees them in the
margins of the earlier illuminated MSS.
The altar beneath Our Lady's chapel was a confused mass of lumber and
rubbish; but, if I were to select--from all the strange and gloomy
receptacles, attached to places of religious worship, which I have seen
since quitting the shores of my own country--any ONE SPOT, in preference to
another, for the celebration of mysterious rites--it should be the CRYPT of
the CATHEDRAL of FREYSING. And perhaps I should say that portions of it
might be as old as the latter end of the eleventh century. From the
foundation, we ascended to the very summit of the building; and from the
top of the tower, had a most extensive and complete view of the plains of
_Hohenlinden_, the rapid _Iser_, and the gray mist of Munich in the
distance. I was much struck with a large bell, cast about fourscore years
ago; the exterior of which was adorned by several inscriptions, and rather
whimsical ornaments. Having gratified a curiosity of this kind, my
companion and valet left me, for a stroll about the town; when I requested
the guide (who could luckily talk a little bad French) to shew me the
LIBRARY belonging to the monastery formerly attached to the cathedral. He
told me that it was the mere relics of a library:--the very shadow of a
shade.
Indeed it was quickly obvious that there were certain _hiatuses_ upon the
shelves--which told their own tale pretty readily. The books, once
occupying them, had been taken to Munich. The room is light, cheerful, and
even yet well garnished with books: most of them being in white forel or
vellum binding. There were Bibles, out of number, about the beginning of
the sixteenth century; and an abundant sprinkling of glosses, decretals,
canon law, and old fashioned scholastic lore of the same period.
Nevertheless, I was glad to have examined it; and do not know that I have
visited many more desirable book-apartments since I left England. In my way
to the inn, I took a more leisurely survey of the collection of Mr. Mozler:
but his sister had not returned from vespers, and I was left absolutely
alone--with the exception of a female servant; who, pointing to the
book-room above stairs, as the supposed fittest place for my visit, betook
herself to her culinary occupations. Since the sight of the premises of the
younger Manoury at Caen,[77] I had never witnessed such a scene of
darkness, lumber, and confusion:--yet I must do Mr. Mozler the justice to
say, that there was much which might have repaid the toil of a minute
examination. But I was pressed for time: and the appetites of my travelling
companions might be sharpened so as to stand in need of an immediate attack
upon the cotelette and wine.
We dined as expeditiously as ever the Trojans or Grecians did, on expecting
a sally from the foe. The red wine was, I think, the most delicious I had
then drank in Germany. A little before six, we left Freysing for
_Moosburg_: a ten mile stage; but we had not got a quarter of a league upon
our journey, when we discovered, to the right, somewhat in our rear, a more
complete view of the Tyrolese mountains than we had yet seen. They appeared
to be as huge monsters, with overtopping heads, disporting themselves in an
element of their own--many thousand feet in the air! It was dusk when we
changed horses at _Moosburg_: and the moon, then pretty far advanced
towards the full, began to supply the light of which we stood so much in
need. _Landshut_ was our next and final stage; but it was unlucky for the
first view of a church, of which the tower is considered to be the highest
in Bavaria, that we were to see it at such a moment. The air of the evening
was mild, and the sky was almost entirely covered by thin flaky clouds, as
we pushed on for Landshut. On our immediate approach to it, the valet told
us that he well remembered the entrance of the French into Landshut, on
Bonaparte's advance to Munich and Vienna. He was himself in the rear of the
assault--attending upon his master, one of the French generals. He said,
that the French entered the further end of the town from that where we
should make our entrance; and that, having gained a considerable eminence,
by a circuitous route, above the river, unobserved, they rushed
forward--bursting open the barriers--and charging the Austrians at the
point of the bayonet. The contest was neither long nor sanguinary. A
prudent surrender saved the town from pillage, and the inhabitants from
slaughter.
On entering Landshut, without having caught any thing like a determined
view of the principal church, we found the centre of the principal street
entirely occupied by booths and stalls, for an approaching fair--to take
place within a few following days. The line of wooden buildings could
scarcely extend less than half a mile. We drove to the principal inn, which
was spacious and _tolerably_ clean; bespoke good beds, and found every
appearance of comfort. I was resolved to devote the next day entirely to
the PUBLIC LIBRARY--attached to the University, brought hither from
Ingoldstadt. Of course I had been long acquainted with the general
character of the early-printed books, from the valuable work of
Seemiller;[78] and was resolved to make especial enquiry, in the first
place, for the Aldine duodecimo of the _Greek Hours_, of which you have
already heard so much. I carried with me a letter to Professor SIEBENKEES,
the Head Librarian. In short, I anticipated a day of bibliographical
"joyaunce."
I was not disappointed in my expectations. The day was as beautiful
without, as I found it profitable within doors. The Professor was all
kindness, and was pleased to claim a long and intimate acquaintance with
me, through certain works which need not be here mentioned: but it would be
the height of affectation _not_ to avow the satisfaction I felt in
witnessing a thoroughly cut-open, and tolerably well-thumbed copy, of the
_Bibl. Spenceriana_ lying upon his table. I instantly commenced the
examination of the library, while the Professor as readily offered his
services of assistance. "Where are your _Aldine Greek Hours_ of 1497?"
observed I. "Alas, Sir, that book exists no longer here!"--replied the
Professor, in a melancholy tone of voice, and with an expression of
countenance which indicated more than was meant by his _words_.
"Nevertheless, (rejoined I) Seemiller describes it as having been at
Ingoldstadt." "He does so--but in the conveyance of the books from thence
hither, it has _somehow_ disappeared."[79] Again the Professor _looked_
more significantly than he _spake_. "What is invisible cannot be
seen"--observed I--"and therefore allow me to take notes of what is before
my eyes." "Most willingly and cheerfully. Here is every thing you wish. The
more you write, the greater will be my satisfaction; although, after Paris
and Munich, there is scarcely any thing worthy of particular description.
But ere you begin your labours, allow me to introduce you to the several
rooms in which the books are contained."
I expressed great pleasure in complying with the Professor's request, and
followed him into every apartment. This library, my dear friend, is placed
in one of the prettiest situations imaginable. Some meandering branches of
the Iser intersect and fertilize considerable tracts of meadow land;
equally rich in colour and (as I learnt) in produce: and terminated by some
gently swelling hills, quite in the vicinity of the town. The whole had a
perfectly English aspect. The rooms were numerous, and commanded a variety
of views. They were well lighted by side windows, and the shelves and
wainscots were coloured chiefly in white. One small hexagonal closet, or
cabinet, on the first floor--(as is indeed the whole suite of apartments)
caught my fancy exceedingly, and won my very heart. The view before it, or
rather from three of its six sides, was exhilirating in the extreme. "Here
Mr. Professor, quoth I, (gently laying hold of his left arm) here will I
come, and, if in any spot, put together my materials for a _third_ edition
of the BIBLIOMANIA." The worthy Professor, for a little moment, thought me
serious--and quickly replied "By all means do so: and you shall be
accommodated with every thing necessary for carrying so laudable a design
into execution." It was a mere bibliomaniacal vision:[80] dissipated the
very moment I had quitted the apartment for another.
I shall now give you the result of my examination of a few of the rarer and
early-printed books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY of Landshut. And first of
MANUSCRIPTS. An _Evangelistarium_, probably of the tenth century, is worth
particular notice; if it be only on the score of its scription--which is
perfectly beautiful: the most so of any, of such a remote period, which I
have ever seen. It is a folio volume, bound in wood, with a stamped
parchment cover of about the end of the fifteenth century. They possess a
copy of the _oldest written Laws of Bavaria_; possibly of the twelfth--but
certainly of the thirteenth century. It is a duodecimo MS. inlaid in a
quarto form. No other MS. particularly struck my fancy, in the absence of
all that was Greek or Roman: but a very splendid _Polish Missal_, in 8vo.
which belonged to Sigismund, King of Poland, in the sixteenth century,
seemed worthy of especial notice. The letters are graceful and elegant; but
the style of art is heavy, although not devoid of effect. The binding is
crimson velvet, with brass knobs, and a central metallic
ornament--apparently more ancient than the book itself. This latter may
have been possibly taken from another volume.
Of the _Printed Books_--after the treasures of this kind seen (as the
Professor intimated) at Paris and Munich--there was comparatively very
little which claimed attention. They have a cropt and stained copy of
Mentelin's _German Bible_, but quite perfect: two copies of the _supposed_
first _German Bible_, for one of which I proposed an exchange in a copy of
the B.S. and of the _AEdes Althorpianae_ as soon as this latter work should
be published. The proposition was acceded to on the part of the Head
Librarian, and it will be forwarded to the honest and respectable firm of
John and Arthur Arch, booksellers; who, previously to my leaving England,
had requested me to make something like a similar purchase for them--should
a fine copy of this German Bible present itself for sale.[81]
Here I saw Mentelin's edition of the _De Civitate Dei_ of _St. Austin_: and
a good sound copy of the very rare edition of _Mammotrectus_, printed by
_Helias de Helie_, in 1470: a beautiful copy of _Martin Brand's Psalter_ of
1486, printed at Leipsic, in 4to. in a large square gothic type; and a
duplicate copy of the Leipsic Psalter of the preceding year, printed by
_Conrad Kachelovez_, in 4to. which latter I obtained for the library in St.
James's Place. There were at least ten copies of the early Block Books; of
which the _Ars Memorandi_ and the _Anti-Christ_ (with extracts inserted in
the latter from the B.S.) appeared to be the more ancient and interesting.
But I must not forget to mention a very indifferent and imperfect copy of
the _Latin Bible of Fust_, of 1462, UPON VELLUM. A few leaves in each
volume are wanting. Here too I saw the _Pfarzival_ of 1477 (as at
Strasbourg) printed in a metrical form.
As I got among the books of the _sixteenth_ century, I was much more
gratified with the result of my researches. I will begin with a very choice
article: which is nothing less than a copy of the _Complutensian
Polyglott_, purchased by Eckius, in 1521, of the celebrated Demetrius
Chalcondylas--as the following coeval ms. memorandum attests: "Rome empta
biblia ista P Eckium P xiiij ducatis largis a Demetrio Calcondyla anno
1521; mortuo iam Leone Papa in Decembri." The death of Leo is here
particularly mentioned, because, during his life, it is said that that
Pontiff prohibited the sale of the work in question. The copy is fair and
sound; but both this, and a duplicate copy, wants the sixth volume, being
the Dictionary or Vocabulary. The mention of Eckius leads me to notice a
little anecdote connected with him. He was, as you may have read, one of
the most learned, most eloquent, and most successful of Luther's
antagonists. He was also the principal theological Professor in the
University of Ingoldstadt. They preserve at Landshut, brought from the
former place, the chair and the doctor's cap of their famous Anti-Lutheran
champion. You see both of these in one of the principal apartments of the
Public Library. I was requested to sit in the chair of the renowned Eckius,
and to put his doctorial bonnet upon my head. I did both:--but, if I had
sat for a century to come, I should never have fancied myself Eckius ...
for more reasons than _one_.
The Sub Librarian, who is a Catholic, (Professor Siebenkees being a
Protestant) has shewn great good sense in preserving all the tracts, which
have fallen in his way, both _for_ and _against_ the Lutheran controversy.
You go between two small book-cases, or sets of shelves, and find _Luther_
in front, and _Eckius_ and his followers in the rear of you; or vice versa.
A considerable number of rare and curious little pieces of _Erasmus_ and
_Melancthon_, are mixed in this collection, which is far from being small
either in number or value. In this interesting collection, I saw a good
copy of Ross's work against Luther, of the date of 1523, which appeared to
me to be printed by Pynson.[82] It had the autograph of Sir Thomas
More--("_Thom^{9} mor^{9}"--_) who indeed is said to have been the author
of the work. This very copy belonged to Eckius, and was given to him by the
author, when Eckius came over to England in 1525: the fact being thus
attested in the hand-writing of the latter: "_Codex iste dono datus est
mihi Johanni Eckio ab illius autore in Anglia, dum visendi cupidus in
Insulam traiecissem, 1525, Augusto x_." The worthy Professor next put into
my hands what he considered to be an _absolutely unique_ copy of _Der Veis
Ritter_, in 1514, folio: adding, that no other copy of the adventures of
the _White Knight_, of the _same_ date, was known to bibliographers. I
assented to the observation--equally from courtesy and sheer ignorance. But
surely this is somewhat difficult to believe.
There was nothing further that demanded a distinct registry; and so, making
my bow, and shaking hands with the worthy Librarian very heartily, I
quitted this congenial spot;--not however before I had been introduced to a
Professor of botany (whose name has now escaped me) who was busily engaged
in making extracts in the reading room, with a short pipe by the side of
him, and a small red tasselled cap upon his head. He had an expressive
countenance; understood our language so as to read Shakespeare with
facility, and even with rapture: and to a question of mine, whether he was
not much gratified with Schlegel's critical remarks upon that dramatist, he
replied, that "he did not admire them so much, as, from the Edinburgh
Review, the English appeared to do." To another question--"which of
Shakspeare's plays pleased him most?" he replied, unhesitatingly, "_Romeo
and Juliet_." I own, I should have thought that the mystical, or
philosophy-loving, brain of a German would have preferred _Hamlet_.
On leaving the library, I surveyed the town with tolerably minute
attention. After Munich, it appeared sufficiently small. Its population
indeed scarcely exceeds 8000. The day turned out very beautiful, and my
first and principal attention was directed to _St. Martin's Church_; of
which the tower (as I think I before told you) is considered to be full 420
feet in height, and the loftiest in Bavaria. But its height is its
principal boast. Both in detail, and as a whole, the architecture is
miserably capricious and tasteless. It is built of red brick. Many of the
monuments in the church-yard, but more particularly some mural ones, struck
me as highly characteristic of the country. Among these rude specimens of
sculpture, the representation of _Our Saviour's Agony in the Garden_--the
favourite subject in Bavaria--was singularly curious to a fresh eye. It may
be between two and three hundred years old; but has suffered no injury.
They have, in the principal street, covered walks, for foot-passengers, in
a piazza-fashion, a little resembling those at Chester: but neither so old
nor so picturesque. The intermixture of rural objects, such as trees and
grass plats--in the high street of Landshut--renders a stroll in the town
exceedingly agreeable to the lover of picturesque scenery. The booths and
stalls were all getting ready for the fair--which I learnt was to last
nearly a fortnight: and which I was too thankful to have escaped.
We left Landshut on a fine sun-shining afternoon, purposing to sleep at the
second stage--_Neuemarkt_--(Angl. "Newmarket") in the route to Salzburg.
_Neuemarkt_ is little better than a small village, but we fared well in
every respect at the principal, if not the only, inn in the place. Our beds
were even luxurious. Neuemarkt will be quickly forgotten: but the following
stage--or _Altoeting_--will not be so easily banished from our recollection.
We reached it to a late breakfast--after passing through the most fertile
and beautifully varied country which I had yet seen--and keeping almost
constantly in view the magnificent chain of the Tyrolese mountains, into
the very heart of which we seemed to be directing our course. ALTOeTING is
situated upon an eminence. We drove into the Place, or Square, and alighted
at what seemed to be a large and respectable inn. Two ladies and two
gentlemen had just arrived before us, from Munich, by a different route:
and while I was surveying them, almost mistaking them for English, and had
just exchanged salutations, my valet came and whispered in my ear that
"these good folks were come on a pilgrimage to the shrine of the _Black
Virgin_." While I was wondering at this intelligence, the valet continued:
"you see that small church in the centre of the square--it is _there_ where
the richest shrine in Bavaria is deposited; and to-day is a 'high day' with
the devotees who come to worship." On receiving this information, we all
three prepared to visit this mean-looking little church. I can hardly
describe to you with sufficient accuracy, the very singular, and to me
altogether new, scene which presented itself on reaching the church. There
is a small covered way--in imitation of cloisters--which goes entirely
round it. The whole of the interior of these cloisters is covered with
little pictures, images, supposed relics--and, in short votive offerings of
every description, to the Holy Virgin, to whom the church is dedicated. The
worshippers believe that the mother of Christ was an _African_ by birth,
and therefore you see little black images of the virgin stuck up in every
direction. At first, I mistook the whole for a parcel of pawnbrokers shops
near each other: and eyed the several articles with a disposition, more or
less, to become a purchaser of a few.
But the sound of the chant, and the smell of the frankincense, broke in
upon my speculations, and called my attention to the interior. I entered
with a sort of rush of the congregation. This interior struck me as being
scarcely thirty feet by twenty; but the eye is a deceitful rule in these
cases. However, I continued to advance towards the altar; the heat, at the
same time, being almost suffocating. An iron grating separated the little
chapel and shrine of our _Black Lady_ from the other portion of the
building; and so numerous, so constant, and apparently so close, had been
the pressure and friction of each succeeding congregation, for probably
more than two centuries, that some of these rails, or bars, originally at
least one inch square, had been worn to _half_ the size of their pristine
dimensions. It was with difficulty, on passing them, that I could obtain a
peep at the altar; which, however, I saw sufficiently distinctly to
perceive that it was entirely covered with silver vases, cups, dishes, and
other _solid_ proofs of devotional ardour--which in short seemed to reach
to the very roof. Having thus far gratified my curiosity, I retreated as
quickly as possible; for not a window was open, and the little light which
these windows emitted, together with the heat of the place, produced so
disagreeable an effect as to make me apprehensive of sudden illness. On
reaching the outward door, and enjoying the freedom of respiration, I made
a sort of secret, but natural vow, that I would never again visit the
shrine of _Our Black Lady_ on a festival day.
An excellent breakfast--together with the neatness and civility of the
female attendants--soon counter-acted the bad effects of the hydrogen
contained within the walls of the place of worship we had just quitted.
Every thing around us wore a cheerful and pleasing aspect; inasmuch as
every thing reminded us of our own country. The servants were numerous, and
all females; with their hair braided in a style of elegance which would not
have disgraced the first drawing-room in London. We quaffed coffee out of
cups which were perfectly of the Brobdignagian calibre; and the bread had
the lightness and sweetness of cake. Between eleven and twelve, Charles
Rohfritsch (alias our valet) announced that the carriage and horses were at
the door; and on springing into it, we bade adieu to the worthy landlady
and her surrounding attendants, in a manner quite natural to travellers who
have seen something very unusual and interesting, and who have in other
respects been well satisfied with good fare, and civil treatment. Not one
of the circle could speak a word of French; so I told Charles to announce
to them that we would not fail to spread the fame of their coffee, eggs,
and bread, all over England! They laughed heartily--and then gave us a
farewell salutation ... by dropping very-formal curtesies--their
countenances instantly relapsing into a corresponding gravity of
expression.
In three minutes the inn, the square, and the church of the _Black Virgin_,
were out of sight. The postilion put his bugle to his mouth, and played a
lively air--in which the valet immediately joined. The musical infatuation,
for an instant, extended to ourselves; for it was a tune which we had often
heard in England, and which reminded me, in particular, of days of past
happiness--never to return! But the sky was bright, the breeze soft, the
road excellent, and the view perfectly magnificent. It was evident that we
were now nearing the Tyrolese mountains. "At the foot of yonder second,
sharp-pointed hill, lies SALZBURG"--said the valet: on receiving his
intelligence from the post-boy. We seemed to be yet some twenty miles
distant. To the right of the hill pointed out, the mountains rose with a
loftier swell, and, covered by snow, the edges or terminations of their
summits seemed to melt into the sky.
Our road now became more hilly, and the time flew away quickly, without our
making an apparently proportionate progress towards Salzburg. At length we
reached _Burckhausen_; which is flanked by the river _Salz_ on one side,
and defended by a lofty citadel on the other. It struck us, upon the whole,
as rather a romantic spot: but the road, on entering the town, is in some
places fearfully precipitous. The stratum was little better than rock. We
were not long in changing horses, and made off instantly for _Tittmaning_;
the last stage but one on that side of Salzburg. The country wore a more
pleasing aspect. Stately trees spread their dark foliage on each side of
the road; between the stems, and through the branches of which, we caught
many a "spirit-stirring" view of the mountains in the neighbourhood of
Salzburg--which, on our nearer approach, seemed to have attained double
their first grandeur. After having changed horses at _Tittmaning_, and
enjoyed a delightfully picturesque ride from Burckhausen thither, we dined
at the following stage, _Lauffen_; a poor, yet picturesque and
wildly-situated, large village. While the dinner was preparing, I walked to
the extremity of the street where the inn is situated, and examined a small
church, built there upon high ground. The cloisters were very striking;
narrow and low, but filled with mural monuments, of a singular variety of
character. It was quite evident, from numberless exhibitions of
art--connected with religious worship--along the road-side, or attached to
churches--that we had now entered a territory quite different from that of
Baden, Wirtemberg, and even the northern part of Bavaria. Small crucifixes,
and a representation of the _Agony in the Garden_, &c, presented themselves
frequently to our view; and it seemed as if Austria were a land of even
greater superstition than Bavaria.
On concluding our dinner, and quitting Lauffen, it grew dusk, and the rain
began to fall in a continued drizzling shower. "It always rains at
Salzburg, sir," said the valet--repeating the information of the post boy.
This news made us less cheerful on leaving Lauffen than we were on quitting
_Altoeting_: but "hope travelled through"--even till we reached the banks of
the river Salz, within a mile or two of Salzburg--where the Austrian
dominions begin, and those of Bavaria terminate. Our carriage was here
stopped, and the trunks were examined, very slightly, on each side of the
river. The long, wooden, black and yellow-striped bar of Austria--reaching
quite across the road--forbade further progress, till such examination, and
a payment of four or five florins, as the barrier-tax,--had been complied
with. I had imagined that, if our trunks had been examined on _one_ side of
the water, there needed no examination of them on the _other_; unless we
had had intercourse with some water fiend in the interval. It seemed,
however, that I reasoned illogically. We were detained full twenty minutes,
by a great deal of pompous palaver--signifying nothing--on the part of the
Austrian commissioner; so that it was quite dark when we entered the
barriers of the town of Salzburg:--mountains, trees, meadows, and rivulets
having been long previously obliterated from our view.
The abrupt ascents and descents of the streets--and the quivering
reflection of the lights from the houses, upon the surface of the river
_Salz_--soon convinced us that we were entering a very extraordinary town.
But all was silent: neither the rattling of carriages, nor the tread of
foot-passengers, nor the voice of the labourer, saluted our ear on entering
Salzburg--when we drove briskly to the _Goelden-Schiff_, in the _Place de la
Cathedrale_, whence I am now addressing you. This inn is justly considered
to be the best in the town; but what a melancholy reception--on our
arrival! No rush of feet, no display of candles, nor elevation of voices,
nor ringing of the bell--- as at the inns on our great roads in
England--but ... every body and every, thing was invisible. Darkness and
dulness seemed equally to prevail. One feeble candle at length glimmered at
the extremity of a long covered arch-way, while afterwards, to the right,
came forward two men--with what seemed to be a farthing candle between
them, and desired to know the object of our halting? "Beds, and a two-day's
residence in your best suite of apartments," replied I quickly--for they
both spoke the French language. We were made welcome by one of them, who
proved to be the master, and who helped us to alight. A long, and latterly
a wet journey, had completely fatigued us--and after mounting up one high
stair-case, and rambling along several loosely-floored corridors--we
reached our apartments, which contained each a very excellent bed. Wax
candles were placed upon the tables: a fire was lighted: coffee brought up;
and a talkative, and civil landlord soon convinced us that we had no reason
to grumble at our quarters.[83]
On rising the next morning, we gazed upon almost every building with
surprise and delight; and on catching a view of the CITADEL--in the back
ground, above the Place de la Cathedrale--it seemed as if it were situated
upon an eminence as lofty as Quito. I quickly sought the _Monastery of St.
Peter_;--the oldest in the Austrian dominions. I had heard, and even read
about its library; and imagined that I was about to view books, of which no
bibliographer had ever yet--even in a vision--received intelligence. But
you must wait a little ere I take you with me to that monastic library.
There is a pleasing chime of bells, which are placed outside of a small
cupola in the _Place_, in which stands the cathedral. I had heard this
chime during the night--when I would rather have heard ... any thing else.
What struck me the first thing, on looking out of window, was, the quantity
of grass--such as Ossian describes within the walls of
_Belcluthah_--growing between the pavement in the square. "Wherefore was
this?" "Sir, (replied the master of the Goelden Schiff) this town is
undergoing a gradual and melancholy depopulation. Before the late war,
there were 27,000 inhabitants in Salzburg: at present, there are scarcely
15,000. This _Place_ was the constant resort of foreigners as well as
townsmen. They filled every portion of it. Now, you observe there is only a
narrow, worn walk, which gives indication of the route of a few straggling
pedestrians. Even the very chimes of yonder bells (which must have
_delighted_ you so much at every third hour of the night!) have lost their
pleasing tone;--and sound as if they foreboded still further desolation to
Salzburg." The man seemed to feel as he spoke; and I own that I was touched
by so animated and unexpected a reply.
I examined two or three old churches, of the Gothic order, of which I have
already forgotten the names--unless they be those of _Ste. Trinite_ and
_St. Sebastien_. In one of them--it being a festival--there was a very
crowded congregation; while the priest was addressing his flock from the
steps of the altar, in a strain of easy and impassioned eloquence. Wherever
I went--and upon almost whatever object I gazed--there appeared to be
traces of curious, if not of remote, antiquity. Indeed the whole town
abounds with such--among which are some Roman relics, which have been
recently (1816) described by Goldenstein, in a quarto volume published
here, and written in the German language.[84]
But you are impatient for the MONASTERY OF ST. PETER.[85] Your curiosity
shall be no longer thwarted; and herewith I proceed to give you an account
of my visit to that venerable and secluded spot--the abode of silence and
of sanctity. It was my first appearance in a fraternity of MONKS; and those
of the order of ST. BENEDICT. I had no letter of recommendation; but,
taking my valet with me, I knocked at the outer gate--and received
immediate admission within some ancient and low cloisters: of which the
pavement consisted entirely of monumental slabs. The valet sought the
librarian, to make known my wishes of examining the library; and I was left
alone to contemplate the novel and strange scene which presented itself on
all sides. There were two quadrangles, each of sufficiently limited
dimensions. In the first, there were several young Monks playing at
skittles in the centre of the lawn. Both the bowl and pins were of
unusually large dimensions, and the direction of the former was confined
within boards, fixed in the earth. These athletic young Benedictins (they
might be between twenty and thirty years of age) took little or no notice
of me; and while my eye was caught by a monumental tablet, which presented
precisely the same coat-armour as the device used by Fust and
Schoeffher,--and which belonged to a family that had been buried about two
hundred and fifty years--the valet returned, and announced that the
Principal of the College desired to see me immediately.
I obeyed the summons in an instant, and followed Rohfritsch up stairs.
There, on the first floor, a middle-aged monk received me, and accompanied
me to the chamber of the President. On rapping at the door with his
knuckles, a hollow but deep-toned voice commanded the visitor to enter. I
was introduced with some little ceremony, but was compelled, most
reluctantly, to have recourse to Latin, in conversing with the Principal.
He rose to receive me very graciously; and I think I never before witnessed
a countenance which seemed to _tell_ of so much hard fagging and
meditation. He must have read every _Father_, in the _editio princeps_ of
his works. His figure and physiognomical expression bespoke a rapid
approach to the grand climacteric of human life. The deeply-sunk, but large
and black, beaming eye--the wan and shrivelled cheek--the nose, somewhat
aquiline, with nostrils having all the severity of sculpture--sharp, thin
lips--an indented chin--and a highly raised forehead, surmounted by a
little black silk cap--(which was taken off on the first salutation) all,
added to the gloom of the place, and the novelty of the costume, impressed
me in a manner not easily to be forgotten. My visit was very short, as I
wished it to be; and it was concluded with an assurance, on the part of the
Principal, that the librarian would be at home on the following day, and
ready to attend me to the library:--but, added the Principal, on parting,
"we have nothing worthy of the inspection of a traveller who has visited
the libraries of Paris and Munich. At Moelk, you will see fine books, and a
fine apartment for their reception."
For the sake of _keeping_, in the order of my narrative, I proceed to give
you an account of the visit to the library, which took place on the morrow,
immediately after breakfast. It had rained the whole of the preceding
night, and every hill and mountain about Salzburg was obscured by a
continuation of the rain on the following day. I began to think the
postilion spoke but too true, when he said "it always rains at Salzburg."
Yet the air was oppressive; and huge volumes of steam, as from a cauldron,
rose up from the earth, and mingled with the descending rain. In five
minutes, I was within the cloisters of the monastery, and recognised some
of the _skittling_ young monks--whom I had seen the day before. One of them
addressed me very civilly, in the French language, and on telling him the
object of my visit, he said he would instantly conduct me to Mr. GAERTNER,
the librarian. On reaching the landing place, I observed a long
corridore--where a somewhat venerable Benedictin was walking, apparently to
and fro, with a bunch of keys in one hand, and a thick embossed-quarto
under his other arm. The very sight of him reminded me of good _Michael
Neander_, the abbot of the monastery of St. Ildefonso--the friend of
Budaeus[86]--of whom (as you may remember) there is a print in the _Rerum
Germanicarum Scriptores_, published in 1707, folio.
"That, Sir, is the librarian:"--observed my guide: "he waits to receive
you." I walked quickly forward and made obeisance. Anon, one of the larger
keys in this said bunch was applied to a huge lock, and the folding and
iron-cramped doors of the library were thrown open. I descended by a few
steps into the ante-room, and from thence had a completely fore-shortened
view of the library. It is small, but well filled, and undoubtedly contains
some ancient and curious volumes: but several _hiatuses_ gave indication
that there had been a few transportations to Vienna or Munich. The small
gothic windows were open, and the rain now absolutely descended in
torrents. Nevertheless, I went quickly and earnestly to work. A few slight
ladders were placed against the shelves, in several parts of the library,
by means of which I left no division unexplored. The librarian, after
exchanging a few words very pleasantly, in the French language, left me
alone, unreservedly to prosecute my researches. I endeavoured to benefit
amply by this privilege; but do not know, when, in the course of three or
four hours, I have turned over the leaves of so many volumes ... some of
which seemed to have been hardly opened since they were first deposited
there ... to such little purpose.
However, he is a bad sportsman who does not hit _something_ in a
well-stocked cover; and on the return of the librarian, he found me busily
engaged in laying aside certain volumes--with a written list
annexed--"which might _possibly_, be disposed of ... for a valuable
consideration?" "Your proposal shall be attended to, but this cannot be
done immediately. You must leave the _consideration_ to the Principal and
the elder brethren of the monastery." I was quite charmed by this response;
gave my address, and taking a copy of the list, withdrew. I enclose you the
list or catalogue in question.[87] Certainly I augur well of the result:
but no early _Virgil_, nor _Horace_, nor _Ovid_, nor _Lucretius_, nor even
an early _Greek Bible_ or _Testament_! What struck me, on the score of
rarity, as most deserving of being secured, were some little scarce
grammatical and philological pieces, by the French scholars of the early
part of the sixteenth century; and some controversial tracts about Erasmus,
Luther, and Eckius.
So much for the monastic visit to St. Peter's at Salzburg; and yet you are
not to quit it, without learning from me that this town was once famous for
other similar establishments[88]--which were said anciently to vie with the
greater part of those in Austria, for respectability of character, and
amplitude of possessions. At present, things of this sort seem to be
hastening towards a close, and I doubt whether the present principal will
have half a dozen successors. It remains only to offer a brief sketch of
some few other little matters which took place at Salzburg; and then to
wish you good bye--as our departure is fixed for this very afternoon. We
are to travel from hence through a country of mountains and lakes, to the
_Monastery of Chremsminster_, in the route to Lintz--on the high road to
Vienna. I have obtained a letter to the Vice-President of _Moelk monastery_,
from a gentleman here, who has a son under his care; so that, ere I reach
the capital of Austria, I shall have seen a pretty good sprinkling of
_Benedictins_--as each of these monasteries is of the order of St.
Benedict.
The evening of the second day of our visit here, enabled me to ascertain
something of the general character of the scenery contiguous to the town.
This scenery is indeed grand and interesting. The summit of the lowest hill
in the neighbourhood is said to be 4000 feet above the level of the sea. I
own I have strong doubts about this. It is with the heights of mountains,
as with the numbers of books in a great library,--we are apt to over-rate
each. However, those mountains, which seem to be covered with perennial
snow, must be doubtless 8000 feet above the same level.[89] To obtain a
complete view of them, you must ascend some of the nether hills. This we
intended to do--but the rain of yesterday has disappointed all our hopes.
The river _Salz_ rolls rapidly along; being fed by mountain torrents. There
are some pretty little villas in the neighbourhood, which are frequently
tenanted by the English; and one of them, recently inhabited by Lord
Stanhope, (as the owner informed me,) has a delightful view of the citadel,
and the chain of snow-capt mountains to the left. The numerous rapid
rivulets, flowing into the Salz, afford excellent trout-fishing; and I
understood that Sir Humphry Davy, either this summer, or the last,
exercised his well-known skill in this diversion here. The hills abound
with divers sorts of four-footed and winged game; and, in short, (provided
I could be furnished with a key of free admission into the library of St.
Peter's Monastery) I hardly know where I could pass the summer and autumn
months more completely to my satisfaction than at SALZBURG. What might not
the pencils of Turner and Calcott here accomplish, during the mellow lights
and golden tints of autumn?
Of course, in a town so full of curiosities of every description, I am not
able, during so short a stay in it, to transmit you any intelligence about
those sights which are vulgarly called the _Lions_. But I must not close
this rambling, desultory letter, without apprising you that I have walked
from one end of the _Moenschberg_ to the other. This is an excavation
through a hard and high rocky hill, forming the new gate, or entrance into
the town. The success of this bold undertaking was as complete, as its
utility is generally acknowledged: nor shall it tarnish the lustre of the
_mitre_ to say, that it was a BISHOP of Salzburg who conceived, and
superintended the execution of, the plan. A very emphatic inscription
eternises his memory: "TE SAXA LOQUUNTUR." The view, from the further end
of it, is considered to be one of the finest in Europe: but, when I
attempted to enjoy it, every feature of the landscape was obscured by
drizzling rain. "It always rains at Salzburg!"--said, as you may remember,
the postilion from Lauffen. It may do so: but a gleam of _sunshine_ always
enlivens that moment, when I subscribe myself, as I do now, your
affectionate and faithful friend.
[77] See vol. i. p. 199.
[78] It is thus entitled: _Bibliothecae Ingolstadiensis Incunabula
Typographica_, 1787, 4to.: containing four parts. A carefully
executed, and indispensably necessary, volume in every bibliographical
collection.
[79] [I rejoice to add, in this edition of my Tour, that the LOST SHEEP has
been FOUND. It had not straggled from the fold when I was at Landshut;
but had got _penned_ so snugly in some unfrequented corner, as
not to be perceived.]
[80] [A vision, however, which AGAIN haunts me!]
[81] This copy has since reached England, and has been arrayed in a goodly
coat of blue morocco binding. Whether it remain in Cornhill at this
precise moment, I cannot take upon me to state; but I can confidently
state that there is _not a finer copy_ of the edition in question
in his Britannic Majesty's united dominions. [This copy
now--1829--ceases to exist... in Cornhill.]
[82] On consulting the _Typog. Antiquities_, vol. ii. p. 510, I found
my conjectures confirmed. The reader will there see the full title of
the work--beginning thus: "_Eruditissimi Viri Guilelmi Rossei opus
elegans, doctum, festiuum, pium, quo pulcherrime retegit, ac refellit,
insanas Lutheri calumnias," &c._ It is a volume of considerable
rarity.
[83] The charges were moderate. A bottle of the best red ordinary wine
(usually--the best in every respect) was somewhere about 1s. 6d. Our
lodgings, two good rooms, including the charge of three wax candles,
were about four shillings per day. The bread was excellent, and the
_cuisine_ far from despicable.
[84] We learn from Pez (_Austriacar. Rer._ vol. ii. col. 185, taken
from the Chronicle of the famous _Admont Monastery_,) that, in
the year 1128, the cathedral and the whole city of Salzburg were
destroyed by fire. So, that the antiquity of this, and of other
relics, must not be pushed to too remote a period.
[85] Before the reader commences the above account of a visit to this
monastery, he may as well be informed that the SUBJOINED bird's-eye
view of it, together with an abridged history (compiled from
Trithemius, and previous chroniclers) appears in the
_Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, published in 1619, folio.
[Illustration]
The monastery is there described as--"et vetustate et dignitate nulli
e Germaniae monasteriis secundum." Rudbertus is supposed to have been
its founder:--"repertis edificiis basilicam in honore SANCTI PETRI
construxit:" _Chronicon Norimberg._ fol. cliii.; edit. 1493. But
this took place towards the end of the sixth century. From Godfred's
_Chronicon Gotvvicense_, 1732, folio, pt. i. pp. 37, 39, 52--the
library of this Monastery, there called "antiquissima," seems to have
had some very ancient and valuable MSS. In Stengelius's time, (1620)
the monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing condition.
[86] As it is just possible the reader may not have a very distinct
recollection of this worthy old gentleman, and ambulatory abbot--it
may be acceptable to him to know, that, in the _Thanatologia of
Budaeus_ (incorporated in the _Tres Selecti Scriptores Rerum
Germanicarum_, 1707, folio, p. 27, &c.) the said Neander is
described as a native of Sorau, in Bohemia, and as dying in his 70th
year, A.D. 1595, having been forty-five years Principal of the
monastery of St. Ildefonso. A list of his works, and a laudatory Greek
epigram, by Budaeus, "UPON HIS EFFIGY," follow.
[87] For the sake of juxta-position I here lay before the reader a short
history of the issue, or progress of the books in question to their
present receptacle, in St. James's Place. A few days after reaching
_Vienna_, I received the following "pithy and pleasant" epistle
from the worthy librarian, "Mon tres-reverend Pasteur. En esperant que
vous etes arrive a Vienne, a bon port, j'ai l'honneur de declarer a
vous, que le prix fixe des livres, que vous avez choisi, et dont la
table est ajoutee, est 40 louis d'or, ou 440 florins. Agreez
l'assurance, &c."
[Autographs]
I wrote to my worthy friend Mr. Nockher at Munich to settle this
subject immediately; who informed me, in reply, that the good monks
would not part with a single volume till they had received "the money
upon the nail,"--"l'argent comptant." That dexterous negotiator
quickly supplied them with the same; received the case of books; and
sent them down the Rhine to Holland, from thence to England: where
they arrived in safe and perfect condition. They are all described in
the second volume of the _AEdes Athorpianae_; together with a
beautiful fac-simile of an illuminated head, or portrait, of
_Gaietanus de Tienis_, who published a most elegantly printed
work upon Aristotle's four books of Meteors, _printed by Maufer_,
in 1476, folio; and of which the copy in the Salzburg library was
adorned by the head (just mentioned) of the Editor. _AEd.
Althorp._ vol. ii. p. 134. Among the books purchased, were two
exquisite copies, filled with wood cuts, relating to the AEsopian
Fables: a copy of one of which, entitled _AEsopus Moralisatus_,
was, I think, sold at the sale of the Duke of Marlborough's books, in
1819, for somewhere about 13l.
[88] In Hartmann Schedel's time, Salzburg--which was then considered as the
CAPITAL OF BAVARIA--"was surrounded by great walls, and was adorned by
many beautiful buildings of temples and monasteries." A view of
Salzburg, which was formerly called JUVAVIA, is subjoined in the
_Nuremberg Chronicle_, fol. CLIII. _edit._ 1493. Consult
also the _Chronicon Gotvvicense_, 1732, folio, pt. ii. p.
760--for some particulars respecting the town taking its name from the
river _Juvavia_ or _Igonta_. Salzburg was an Archbishopric founded by
Charlemagne: see the _Script. Rer. German._ edited by _Nidanus et
Struvius_, 1726 folio, vol. i. p. 525.
[89] On the morning following my arrival at Salzburg, I purchased a card,
and small chart of the adjacent country and mountains. Of the latter,
the _Gross Klokner_, _Klein Klokner_, are each about 12000
feet above the level of the sea; The _Weisbachhorn_ is about
11000 feet of similar altitude; _Der Hohe Narr_ about the same
height; and the _Hohe Warte_ about 10,000; while the
_Ankogl_ and _Herzog Ernst_, are 9000 each. The lowest is
the _Gaisberg_ of 4000 feet; but there is a regular gradation in
height, from the latter, to the Gross Klokner, including about 25
mountains.
[Illustration]
LETTER VIII.
SALZBURG. TO CHREMSMINSTER. THE LAKE GMUNDEN. THE MONASTERY OF
CHREMSMINSTER. LINTZ.
_Lintz; on the road to Vienna, Aug. 26, 1818._
In order that I may not be too much in arrear in my correspondence, I
snatch an hour or two at this place, to tell you what have been my sights
and occupations since I quitted the extraordinary spot whence I last
addressed you. Learn therefore, at the outset, that I have been, if
possible, more gratified than heretofore. I have shaped my course along
devious roads, by the side of huge impending mountains; have skirted more
than one lake of wide extent and enchanting transparency; have navigated
the celebrated _Lake of Gmunden_ from one end to the other--the greater
part of which is surrounded by rocky yet fertilized mountains of a
prodigious height;--have entered one of the noblest and richest monasteries
of Austria--and darted afterwards through a country, on every side pleasing
by nature, and interesting from history. My only regret is, that all this
has been accomplished with too much precipitancy; and that I have been
compelled to make sketches in my mind, as it were, when the beauty of the
objects demanded a finished picture.
I left Salzburg on the afternoon after writing my last epistle; and left it
with regret at not having been able to pay a visit to the salt mines of
_Berchtesgaden_ and _Hallein_: but "non omnia possumus omnes." The first
stage, to _Koppf_, was absolutely up hill, the whole way, a short German
league and a half: probably about seven English miles. We were compelled to
put a leader to our two horses, and even then we did little more than
creep. But the views of the country we had left behind us, as we continued
ascending, were glorious in the extreme. Each snow-capt mountain appeared
to rise in altitude--as we continued to mount. Our views however were mere
snatches. The sun was about to set in a bed of rain. Large black clouds
arose; which, although they added to the grandeur of picturesque
composition, prevented us from distinctly surveying the adjacent country.
Masses of deep purple floated along the fir-clad hills: now partially
illumined by the sun's expiring rays, and now left in deep shadow--to be
succeeded by the darkness of night.
The sun was quite set as we stopped to change horses at _Koppf_: and a sort
of premature darkness came on:--which, however, was relieved for a short
time by a sky of partial but unusual clearness of tint. The whole had a
strange and magical effect. As the horses were being put to, I stepped
across the road to examine the interior of a small church--where I
observed, in the side aisle, a group of figures of the size of life--which,
at that sombre hour, had a very extraordinary effect. I approached nearer,
and quickly perceived that this group was intended to represent the _Agony
in the Garden of Gethsemane_. Our Saviour, at a little distance, was upon
his knees, praying; and the piety of some _religieuse_ (as I afterwards
learnt) had caused a white handkerchief to be fixed between his hands. The
disciples were represented asleep, upon the ground. On coming close to the
figures (which were raised upon a platform, of half the height of a man)
and removing the moss upon which they were recumbent, I found that they
were mere _trunks_, without legs or feet: the moss having been artfully
placed, so as to conceal these defects when the objects were seen at a
distance. Of course it was impossible to refrain from a smile, on
witnessing such a sight.
The horses were harnessed in ten minutes; and, having no longer any
occasion for a leader, we pursued our route with the usual number of two.
The evening was really enchanting; and upon the summit of one of the
loftiest of the hills--which rose perpendicularly as a bare sharp piece of
rock--we discerned a pole, which we conjectured was fixed there for some
particular purpose. The postilion told us that it was the stem of the
largest fir-tree in the country, and that there were annual games
celebrated around it--in the month of May, when its summit was crowned with
a chaplet. Our route was now skirted on each side, alternately, by water
and by mountain. The _Mande See_, _Aber See_, and _Aller See_, (three
beautiful lakes) lay to the left; of which we caught, occasionally, from
several commanding heights, most magnificent views--as the last light of
day seemed to linger upon their surfaces. They are embosomed in scenery of
the most beautiful description. When we reached _St. Gilgen_, or _Gilling_,
we resolved upon passing the night there.
It was quite dark, and rather late, when we entered this miserable village;
but within half a league of it, we ran a very narrow chance of being
overturned, and precipitated into a roaring, rapid stream, just below the
road--along the banks of which we had been sometime directing our course. A
fir-pole lay across the road, which was undiscernible from the darkness of
the night; and the carriage, receiving a violent concussion, and losing its
balance for a moment--leaning over the river--it was doubtful what would be
the issue. Upon entering the archway of the inn, or rather public
house--from the scarcity of candles, and the ignorance of rustic ostlers,
the door of the carriage (it being accidentally open) was completely
wrenched from the body.
Never, since our night's lodging at _Saudrupt_,[90] had we taken up our
quarters at so miserable an auberge. The old woman, our landlady, seemed
almost to cast a suspicious eye upon us; but the valet in a moment disarmed
her suspicions. It was raw, cold, and late; but the kitchen fire was yet in
full force, and a few earthen-ware utensils seemed to contain something in
the shape of eatables. You should know, that the kitchen fire-places, in
Germany, are singularly situated; at least all those at the public inns
where we have stopped. A platform, made of brick, of the height of about
three feet, is raised in the centre of the floor. The fire is in the centre
of the platform. You look up, and see directly the open sky through the
chimney, which is of a yawning breadth below, but which narrows gradually
towards the top. It was so cold, that I requested a chair to be placed upon
the platform, and I sat upon it--close to the kitchen fire--receiving very
essential benefit from the position. All the kitchen establishment was
quickly put in requisition: and, surrounded by cook and scullion--pots,
pans, and culinary vessels of every description--I sat like a monarch upon
his throne: while Mr. Lewis was so amused at the novelty of the scene, that
he transferred it to his sketch-book.
It was midnight when we attacked our _potage_--in the only visitor's
bed-room in the house. Two beds, close to each other, each on a sloping
angle of nearly forty-five degrees, were to receive our wearied bodies. The
_materiel_ of the beds was _straw_; but the sheets were white and well
aired, and edged (I think) with a narrow lace; while an eider down
quilt--like a super-incumbent bed--was placed upon the first quilt. It was
scarcely day-light, when Mr. Lewis found himself upon the floor, awoke from
sleep, having gradually slid down. By five o'clock, the smith's hammer was
heard at work below--upon the door of the dismembered carriage--and by the
time we had risen at eight o'clock, the valet reported to us that the job
was just _then_ ... in the very state in which it was at its
_commencement_! So much for the reputation of the company of white-smiths
at _St. Gilgen_. We were glad to be off by times; but I must not quit this
obscure and humble residence without doing the landlady the justice to say,
that her larder and kitchen enabled us to make a very hearty breakfast.
This, for the benefit of future travellers--benighted like ourselves.
The morning lowered, and some soft rain fell as we started: but, by
degrees, the clouds broke away, and we obtained a complete view of the
enchanting country through which we passed--as we drove along by the banks
of the _Aber_ lake, to _Ischel_. One tall, sharp, and spirally-terminating
rock, in particular, kept constantly in view before us, on the right; of
which the base and centre were wholly feathered with fir. It rose with an
extraordinary degree of abruptness, and seemed to be twice as high as the
spire of Strasbourg cathedral. To the left, ran sparkling rivulets, as
branches of the three lakes just mentioned. An endless variety of
picturesque beauty--of trees, rocks, greenswards, wooded heights, and
glen-like passes--canopied by a sky of the deepest and most brilliant
blue--were the objects upon which we feasted till we reached _Ischel_:
where we changed horses. Here we observed several boats, of a peculiarly
long and narrow form, laden with salt, making their way for the _Steyer_
and _Ens_ rivers, and from thence to the Danube. To describe what we saw,
all the way till we reached the _Traun See_, or the LAKE OF GMUNDEN, would
be only a repetition of the previous description.
At _Inderlambach_, close to the lake in question, we stopped to dine. This
is a considerable village, or even country town. On the heights are
well-trimmed gravel walks, from which you catch a commanding view of the
hither end of the lake; and of which the sight cheered us amazingly. We
longed to be afloat. There is a great manufactory of salt carried on upon
these heights--at the foot of which was said to be the best inn in the
town. Thither we drove: and if high charges form the test of the excellence
of an inn, there is good reason to designate this, at _Inderlambach_, as
such. We snatched a hasty meal, (for which we had nearly fifteen florins to
pay) being anxious to get the carriage and luggage aboard one of the larger
boats, used in transporting travellers, before the sun was getting too
low ... that we might see the wonders of the scenery of which we had heard
so much. It was a bright, lovely afternoon; and about half-past six we were
all, with bag and baggage, on board. Six men, with oars resembling spades
in shape, were to row us; and a seventh took the helm. The water was as
smooth as glass, and of a sea-green tint, which might have been occasioned
by the reflection of the dark and lofty wood and mountainous scenery, by
which the lake is surrounded.
The rowers used their oars so gently, as hardly to make us sensible of
their sounds. The boat glided softly along; and it was evident, from the
varying forms of the scenery, that we were making considerable way. We had
a voyage of at least nine English miles to accomplish, ere we reached the
opposite extremity--called _Gmunden_; and where we were told that the inn
would afford us every accommodation which we might wish. On reaching the
first winding or turning of the lake, to the left, a most magnificent and
even sublime object--like a mountain of rock--presented itself to the
right. It rose perpendicularly--vast, craggy, and of a height, I should
suppose, little short of 2000 feet. Its gray and battered sides--now
lighted up by the varied tints of a setting sun--seemed to have been
ploughed by many a rushing torrent, and covered by many a winter's snow.
Meanwhile the lake was receiving, in the part nearest to us, a breadth of
deep green shadow, as the sun became lower and lower. The last faint scream
of the wild fowl gave indication that night was coming on; and the few
small fishermen's huts, with which the banks were slightly studded, began
to fade from the view. Yet the summit of the mountain of rock, which I have
just mentioned, was glowing with an almost golden hue. I cannot attempt a
more minute description of this enchanting scene.
One thing struck me very forcibly. This enormous rocky elevation seemed to
baffle all our attempts to _near_ it--and yet it appeared as if we were
scarcely a quarter of a mile from it. This will give you some notion of its
size and height. At length, the scenery of the lake began to change--into a
more quiet and sober character.... We had now passed the rocky mountain,
and on looking upon its summit, we observed that the golden glow of
sunshine had subsided into a colour of pale pink, terminating in alternate
tints of purple and slate. Almost the whole landscape had faded from the
eye, when we reached the end of our voyage; having been more than two hours
upon the lake. On disembarking, we made directly for the inn--where we
found every thing even exceeding what we had been led to expect--and
affording a very striking and comfortable contrast to the quarters of the
preceding evening at St. Gilgen. Sofas, carpets, lustres, and two good
bed-rooms--a set of china which might have pleased a German baron--all
glittered before our eyes, and shewed us that, if we were not well
satisfied, the fault would be our own. The front windows of the hotel
commanded a direct and nearly uninterrupted length-view of the lake; and if
the full moon had risen ... but one cannot have every thing one wants--even
at the hotel of Gmunden.
We ordered a good fire, and wax candles to be lighted; a chafing dish,
filled with live charcoal caused a little cloud of steam to be emitted from
a copper kettle--of which the exterior might have been _cleaned_ ... during
the _last_ century. But we travelled with our own tea; and enjoyed a
succession of cups which seemed to make us "young and lusty as eagles:" and
which verified all the pleasing things said in behalf of this philosophical
beverage by the incomparable Cowper. Mr. Lewis spent two hours in _penning
in_ his drawings; and I brushed up my journal---opened my map--and
catechised the landlord about the MONASTERY of CHREMSMINSTER, which it was
resolved to visit on the following (Sunday) morning. Excellent beds (not
"sloping in an angle of 45 degrees"--) procured us a comfortable night's
rest. In the morning, we surveyed the lake, the village, and its immediate
vicinity. We inspected two churches, and saw a group of women devoutly
occupied in prayer by the side of a large tombstone--in a cemetery at a
distance from any church. The tombstones in Germany are whimsical enough.
Some look like iron cross-bows, others like crosses; some nearly resemble a
gibbet; and others a star. They are usually very slender in their
structure, and of a height scarcely exceeding four or five feet.
By eleven in the morning, the postboy's bugle sounded for our departure.
The carriage and horses were at the door: the postboy, arrayed in an
entirely new scarlet jacket, with a black velvet collar edged with silver
lace, the livery of Austria, was mounted upon a strong and lofty steed; and
the travellers being comfortably seated, the whip sounded, and off we went,
up hill, at a good round cantering pace. A large congregation, which was
quitting a church in the vicinity of the inn, gazed at us, as we passed,
with looks and gestures as if they had never seen two English travellers
before.
The stage from Gmunden to Chremsminster is very long and tedious; but by no
means devoid of interest. We halted an hour to rest the horses, about
half-way on the route; which I should think was full eight English miles
from the place of starting. On leaving Gmunden, and gaining the height of
the neighbouring hills, we looked behind, or rather to the right, upon the
_back_ part of that chain of hills and rocks which encircle the lake over
which we had passed the preceding evening. The sky was charged with large
and heavy clouds; and a broad, deep, and as it were stormy, tint of dark
purple ... mantled every mountain which we saw--with the exception of our
old gigantic friend, of which the summit was buried in the clouds. At a
given distance, you form a tolerably good notion of the altitude of
mountains; and from this latter view of those in question, I should think
that the highest may be about 3000 feet above the level of the lake. It was
somewhere upon two o'clock when we caught the first glimpse of the spire
and lofty walls of the MONASTERY OF CHREMSMINSTER. This monastery is hid by
high ground,--till you get within a mile of the town of _Chrems_; so
called, from a river, of the same name, which washes almost the walls of
the monastery.
I cannot dissemble the joy I felt on the first view of this striking and
venerable edifice. It is situated on a considerable eminence--and seems to
be built upon a foundation of rock. Its mosque-fashioned towers, the long
range of its windows, and height of its walls, cannot fail to arrest the
attention very forcibly. Just on the spot where we caught the first view of
it, the road was not only very precipitous, but was under repair; which
made it absolutely perilous. The skill of our postilion, however extricated
us from all danger; and on making the descent, I opened my portmanteau in
front of me--which was strapped to the back-seat of the carriage--pulled
out the green silk purse which I had purchased at Dieppe, within a few
hours of my landing in France--and introducing my hand into it, took from
thence some dozen or twenty napoleons--observing at the same time, to Mr.
Lewis, and pointing to the monastery--that "these pieces would probably be
devoted to the purchasing of a few book-treasures from the library of the
edifice in view." In five minutes we drove up to the principal, or rather
only inn, which the town seemed to afford. The first thing I did, was, to
bespeak an immediate dinner, and to send a messenger, with a note (written
in Latin) to the Vice Principal or Librarian of the monastery--"requesting
permission to inspect the library, being English travellers bound for
Vienna." No answer was returned ... even on the conclusion of our dinner;
when,--on calling a council, it was resolved that we should take the valet
and a guide with us, and immediately assail the gates of the Monastery.
I marched up the steep path which leads to these gates, with the most
perfect confidence in the success of my visit. Vespers were just concluded;
and three or four hundred at least of the population of Chrems were pouring
forth from the church doors, down the path towards the town. On entering
the quadrangle in which the church is situated, we were surprised at its
extent, and the respectability of its architecture. We then made for the
church--along the cloisters--and found it nearly deserted. A few straggling
supplicants were however left behind--ardent in prayer, upon their knees:
but the florid style of the architecture of the interior of this church
immediately caught my attention and admiration. The sides are covered with
large oil paintings, which look like copies of better performances; while,
at each lower corner of these pictures, stands a large figure of a saint,
boldly sculptured, as if to support the painting. Throwing your eye along
this series of paintings and sculpture, on each side of the church, the
whole has a grand and imposing effect--while the _subjects_ of some of the
paintings, describing the tortures of the damned, or the occupations of the
good, cannot fail, in the mind of an enthusiastic devotee, to produce a
very powerful sensation. The altars here, as usual in Germany, and even at
Lauffen and Koppf--are profusely ornamented.
We had hardly retreated from the church--lost in the variety of reflections
excited by the novelty of every surrounding object--when I perceived a
Benedictin, with his black cap upon his head, walking with a hurried step
towards us ... along the cloisters. As he approached, he pulled off his
cap, and saluted us very graciously: pouring forth a number of sentences,
in the Latin language, (for he could not speak a word of French) with a
fluency and rapidity of utterance, of which, I could have no conception;
and of which, necessarily, I could not comprehend one half. Assuming a more
leisurely method of address, he asked me, what kind of books I was more
particularly anxious to see: and on replying "those more especially which
were printed in the fifteenth century--the "_Incunabula_"--he answered,
"come with me; and, although the librarian be absent, I will do my utmost
to assist you." So saying, we followed him into his cell, a mere cabin of a
room: where I observed some respectably-looking vellum-clad folios, and
where his bed occupied the farther part. He then retired for the key:
returned in five seconds, and requested that we would follow him up stairs.
We mounted two flights of a noble staircase; the landing-place of the
_first_ of which communicated with a lofty and magnificent, arched
corridor:--running along the whole side of the quadrangle. The library is
situated at the very top of the building, and occupies (as I should
apprehend) one half of the side of the quadrangle. It is a remarkably
handsome and cheerful room, divided into three slightly indicated
compartments; and the colour, both of the wainscot and of the backs of the
books, is chiefly white.
The first thing that struck me was, the almost unbounded and diversified
view from thence. I ran to the windows--but the afternoon had become black
and dismal, and the rain was descending fast on all sides; yet, in the haze
of distance, I thought I could discern the chain of huge mountains near the
lake of Gmunden. Their purple sides and craggy summits yet seemed to rise
above the clouds, which were resting upon the intermediate country, and
deluging it with rain. The Benedictin confirmed my suspicions as to the
identity of the country before us, and then bade me follow, him quickly. I
followed M. HARTENSCHNEIDER (for so the worthy Benedictin wrote his name)
to the further division, or compartment of the library; and turning to the
left, began an attack upon the _Fifteeners_--which were placed there, on
the two lowest shelves. My guide would not allow of my taking down the
books ... from sheer politeness. "They might prove burdensome"--as if _any
thing_, in the shape of a book, could be considered a BURDEN!
The first volume I opened, was one of the most beautiful copies
imaginable--utterly beyond all competition, for purity and primitiveness of
condition--of Schoiffher's edition of _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, with
the Commentary of Trivetus, of the date of 1473. That work is
everywhere--in all forms, types, and conditions--upon the continent. The
worthy M. Hartenschneider seemed to be marvellously pleased with the
delight I expressed on the view of this magnificent volume. He then placed
before me the _Catholicon_ of 1469, by G. Zainer: a cropt, but clean and
desirable copy. Upon my telling him that I had not long ago seen a copy of
it UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich, he seemed to be mute and
pensive... and to sigh somewhat inwardly. Pausing awhile, he resumed, by
telling me that the ONLY treasure they had possessed, in the shape of a
VELLUM BOOK, was a copy of the same work of St. Austin, printed chiefly by
_John de Spira_ (but finished by his brother _Vindelin_) of the date of
1470; but with which, and many other book-curiosities, the French general
_Lecourbe_ chose to march away; in the year 1800. That cruel act of
spoliation was commemorated, or revenged, by an angry Latin distich.
I was also much gratified by a beautifully clean copy of the _Durandi
Rationale_ by I. Zeiner, of the date of 1474: as well as with the same
printer's _Aurea Biblia_, of the same date, which is indeed almost every
where upon the Continent. But nothing came perfectly up to the copy of
Schoiffher's edition of the _De Civ. Dei._ M. Hartenschneider added, that
the Imperial Library at Vienna had possessed itself of their chief rarities
in early typography: but he seemed to exult exceedingly on mentioning the
beautiful and perfect state of their DELPHIN CLASSICS.
"Do you by chance possess the _Statius_?--" observed I. "Come and see--"
replied my guide: and forthwith he took me into a recess, or closet, where
my eye was greeted with one of the most goodly book-sights imaginable.
There they all stood--those Delphin Classics--in fair array and comeliest
condition. I took down the Statius, and on returning it, exclaimed
"Exemplar pulcherrimum et optime conservatum." "Pretiosissimumque,"
rejoined my cicerone. "And the _Prudentius_--good M. Hartenschneider--do
you possess it?" "Etiam"--replied he. "And the _Catullus_, _Tibullus_, and
_Propertius_?" They were there also: but one of the volumes, containing the
Tibullus, was with a brother monk. That monk (thought I to myself) must
have something of a tender heart. "But tell me, worthy and learned Sir,
(continued I) why so particular about the _Statius_? Here are twenty golden
pieces:" (they were the napoleons, taken from the forementioned silken
purse[91])--"will these procure the copy in question?" "It is in vain you
offer any thing: (replied M. Hartenschneider) we have refused this very
copy even to Princes and Dukes." "Listen then to me:" resumed I: "It seems
you want that great work, such an ornament to our own country, and so
useful to every other--the _Monasticon Anglicanum of Sir William Dugdale_.
Will you allow me to propose a fair good copy of that admirable
performance, in exchange for your Statius?" "I can promise nothing--replied
M. Hartenschneider--as that matter rests entirely with the superiors of the
monastery; but what you say appears to be very reasonable; and, for myself,
I should not hesitate one moment, in agreeing to the proposed exchange." My
guide then gave me to understand that he was _Professor of History_; and
that there were not fewer than one hundred monks upon the establishment.
I was next intreated, together with my travelling friend and our valet, to
stop and pass the night there. We were told that it was getting late and
dark; and that there was only a cross road between Chrems and _Ens_, in the
route to _Lintz_--to which latter place we were going. "You cannot reach
Lintz (said our hospitable attendant) before midnight; but rain and
darkness are not for men with nice sensibilities to encounter. You and your
friend, and eke your servant, shall not lack a hospitable entertainment.
Command therefore your travelling equipage to be brought hither. You see
(added he smiling) we have room enough for all your train. I beseech you to
tarry with us." This is almost a literal version of what M. Hartenschneider
said--and he said it fluently, and even in an impassioned manner. I thanked
him again and again; but declared it to be impossible to comply with his
kind wishes. "The hospitality of your order (observed I to the Professor)
is equal to its learning." M. Hartenschneider bowed: and then taking me by
the arm, exclaimed, "well, since you cannot be prevailed upon to stay, you
must make the most of your time. Come and see one or two of our more
ancient MSS."
He then placed before me an _Evangelistarium_ of the eighth century, which
he said had belonged to Charlemagne, the founder of the monastery.[92] It
was one of the most perfect pieces of calligraphy which I had ever seen;
perhaps superior to that in the Public Library at Landshut. But this MS. is
yet more precious, as containing, what is considered to be, a compact
between Charlemagne and the first Abbot of the Monastery, executed by both
parties. I looked at it with a curious and sceptical eye, and had scarcely
the courage to _doubt_ its authenticity. The art which it exhibits, in the
illuminations of the figures of the Evangelists, is sufficiently
wretched--compared with the specimens of the same period in the celebrated
MS. (also once belonging to Charlemagne) in the private library of the King
at Paris.[93] I next saw a MS. of the _Sonnets of Petrarch_, in a small
folio, or super royal octavo size, supposed to have been executed in the
fifteenth century, about seventy years after the death of the poet. It is
beautifully written in a neat roman letter, and evidently the performance
of an Italian scribe; but it may as likely be a copy, made in the early
part of the fifteenth century, of a MS. of the previous century. However,
it is doubtless a precious MS. The ornaments are sparingly introduced, and
feebly executed.
On quitting these highly interesting treasures, M. H. and myself walked up
and down the library for a few minutes, (the rain descending in torrents
the whole time) and discoursed upon the great men of my own country. He
mentioned his acquaintance with the works of Bacon, Locke, Swift, and
Newton--and pronounced the name of the last ... with an effervescence of
feeling and solemnity of utterance amounting to a sort of adoration. "Next
to Newton," said he, "is your Bacon: nor is the interval between them
_very_ great: but, in my estimation, Newton is more an angel than a mortal.
He seemed to have been always communing with the Deity." "All this is
excellent, Sir,--replied I: but you say not one word about our divine
_Shakspeare_." "Follow me--rejoined he--and you shall see that I am not
ignorant of that wonderful genius--and that I do not talk without book."
Whereupon M.H. walked, or rather ran, rapidly to the other end of the
library, and put into my hands _Baskerville's Edition_ of that poet,[94] of
the date of 1768--which I frankly told him I had never before seen. This
amused him a good deal; but he added, that the greater part of Shakspeare
was incomprehensible to him, although he thoroughly understood _Swift_, and
read him frequently.
It was now high time to break off the conversation, interesting as it might
be, and to think of our departure: for the afternoon was fast wearing away,
and a starless, if not a tempestuous, night threatened to succeed. Charles
Rohfritsch was despatched to the inn below--to order the horses, settle the
reckoning, and to bring the carriage as near to the monastery as possible.
Meanwhile Mr. L. and myself descended with M. Hartenschneider to his own
room--where I saw, for the first time, the long-sought after work of the
_Annales Hirsaugienses_ of _Trithemius_, _printed in the Monastery of St.
Gall_ in 1690, 2 vols., folio, lying upon the Professor's table. M.H. told
me that the copy belonged to the library we had just quitted. I had indeed
written to Kransfelder, a bookseller at Augsbourg, just before leaving
Munich, for _two_ copies of that rare and estimable work--which were
inserted in his sale catalogue; and I hope to be lucky enough to secure
both--for scarcely ten shillings of our money.[95] It now only remained to
bid farewell to the most kind, active, and well-informed M.
Hartenschneider--and to quit (probably for ever) the MONASTERY OF
CHREMSMINSTER. Like the worthy Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm, he "committed
me to God's especial good providence--" and insisted upon accompanying me,
uncovered, to the very outer gates of the monastery: promising, all the
way, that, on receiving my proposals in writing, respecting the Statius, he
would promote that object with all the influence he might possess.[96] Just
as he had reached the further limits of the quadrangle, he met the
librarian himself--and introduced me to him: but there was now only time to
say "Vale!" We shook hands--for the first ... and in all probability ...
the last time.
Every thing was in readiness--on reaching the bottom of the hill. A pair of
small, and apparently young and mettlesome horses, were put to the
carriage: the postilion was mounted; and nothing remained but to take our
seats, and bid adieu to _Chrems_ and its Monastery. The horses evinced the
fleetness of rein deer at starting; and on enquiring about their age and
habits, I learnt that they were scarcely _three_ years old--had been just
taken from the field--and had been but _once_ before in harness. This
intelligence rather alarmed us. However, we continued to push vigorously
forward, along a very hilly road, in which no difference whatever was made
between ascents and descents. It was a good long sixteen mile stage; and
darkness and a drizzling rain overtook us ere we had got over half of it.
There were no lights to the carriage, and the road was the most devious I
had ever travelled. The horses continued to fly like the wind, and the
charioteer began to express his fatigue in holding them in. At length we
saw the light of _Ens_, to the right--the first post town on the high road
from Lintz to Vienna. This led us to expect to reach the main road quickly.
We passed over a long wooden bridge--under which the river Ens, here broad
and rapid, runs to empty itself into the Danube: and... nearer the hour of
eleven than ten, we drove to the principal inn in the Place.
It was fair time: and the town of LINTZ was glittering with lights, and
animated by an unusual stir of population. The centre of the _Place_ or
Square, where the inn is situated, was entirely filled by booths; and it
was with difficulty we could gain admission within the inn, or secure rooms
when admitted. However, we had no reason to complain, for the chambermaid
(an exceedingly mirthful and active old woman) assured us that Lord and
Lady Castlereagh on their route to Vienna in 1815, had occupied the very
beds which she had destined for us. These beds were upon the second floor,
in a good large room, warmed by a central stove of earthenware tiles--the
usual fireplace in Germany. The first floor of the inn was wholly occupied
by travellers, merchants, dealers, and adventurers of every
description--the noise of whose vociferations, and the tramp of whose
movements, were audible even till long after midnight.
I am tarrying in a very large, very populous, and excellently well built
town. LINTZ, or LINZ, has a population of at least 20,000 souls: and
boasts, with justice, not only of its beautiful public buildings, but of
its manufactories of stuffs, silks, and printed calicoes. The _Place_,
before this inn, affords evidence of the splendour of these wares; and the
interiors of several booths are in a perfect blaze--from the highly
ornamented gold gauze caps worn by the upper classes of the middling
people, even more brilliant than what was observed at Augsbourg. I was
asked equal to four guineas of our money for one of these caps, in my
reconnoissance before breakfast this morning--nor, as I afterwards learnt,
was the demand exorbitant.
I must bid you farewell in haste. I start for Vienna within twenty minutes
from this time, and it is now nearly-mid-day. But ere I reach the capital
of Austria, I hope to pay a string of MONASTIC VISITS:--beginning with that
of _St. Florian_, about a dozen miles from this place, just before you
reach Ens, the next post town; so that, ere I again address you (which
cannot be until I reach Vienna,) I shall have made rather a rambling and
romantic tour. "Omne ignotum pro magnifico"--yet, if I mistake not; (from
all that I can collect here) _experience_ will confirm what hope and
ignorance suggest.
[90] Vol. ii. p. 352-3.
[91] See p. 217 ante.
[92] It should seem, from the pages of PEZ and NIDANUS, that Charlemagne
was either the founder, or the patron, or endower, of almost every
monastery in Germany. Stengelius, however, gives a a very romantic
origin to the foundation of Chremsminster. "The eldest son of Tassilo,
a Duke or Elector of Bavaria, went out a hunting in the winter; when,
having been separated from his companions, in a large wood, he met a
wild boar of an enormous size, near a fountain and pool of water.
Notwithstanding the fearful odds between them, Tassilo gallantly
received the animal upon the point of his hunting spear, and
dispatched him with a tremendous wound: not however without a fatal
result to himself. Rage, agony, and over exertion... proved fatal to
the conqueror: and when, excited by the barking of the dogs, his
father and the troop of huntsmen came up to see what it might be, they
witnessed the spectacle of the boar and the young Tassilo lying DEAD
by the side of each other. The father built the MONASTERY of
CHREMSMINSTER upon the fatal spot--to the memory of his beloved but
unfortunate son. He endowed it with large possessions, and his
endowments were confirmed by Pope Adrian and the Emperor
Charlemagne--in the year 777. The history of the monastery is lost in
darkness, till the year 1046, when Engelbert, Bishop of Passau,
consecrated it anew; and in 1165, Diepold, another Bishop of Passau,
added greatly to its possessions; but he was, in other respects, as
well as Manegold in 1206, a very violent and mischievous character.
Bishop Ulric, in 1216, was a great benefactor to it; but I do not
perceive when the present building was erected: although it is
possible there may be portions of it as old as the thirteenth century.
See _Pez: Script. Rer. Austriac._, vol. i. col. 1305, &c.: _vol. ii._
col. 67, &c. At the time of publishing the _Monasteriologia of
Stengelius_, 1638, (where there is a bird's-eye view of the monastery,
as it now generally appears) Wolffradt (or Wolfardt) was the
Abbot--who, in the author's opinion, "had no superior among his
predecessors." I go a great way in thinking with Stengelius; for this
worthy Abbot built the Monks a "good supper-room, two dormitories, a
sort of hospital for the sick, and a LIBRARY, with an abundant stock
of new books. Also a sacristy, furnished with most costly robes, &c.
_Monasteriologia_; sign. A. It was doubtless the BIBLIOTHECA
WOLFRADTIANA in which I tarried--as above described--with equal
pleasure and profit.
[93] See vol. ii. p. 199.
[94] This I presume to be the "spurious" Birmingham edition, which is
noticed by Steevens in the _Edit. Shakspeare_, 1813. 8vo. vol.
ii. p. 151.
[95] They were both secured. One copy is now in the ALTHORP LIBRARY, and
the other in that of Mr. Heber.
[96] On the very night of my arrival at Lintz, late as it was, I wrote a
letter to the Abbot, or head of the monastery, addressed thus--as the
Professor had written it down: "_Ad Reverendissimum Dominum Anselmum
Mayerhoffer inclyti Monasterii Cremifanensis Abbatem vigilantissimum
Cremifanum_." This was enclosed in a letter to the Professor
himself with the following direction: "_Ad Rev. Dm. Udalricum
Hartenschneider Professum Monasterij Cremifanensis et Historiae ibidem
Professorem publicum. Cremifanum_:" the Professor having put into
my hands the following written memorandum: "Pro commutandis--quos
designasti in Bibliotheca nostra, libris--primo Abbatem adire, aut
litteris saltem interrogare necesse est: quas, si tibi placuerit, ad
me dirigere poteris."
[Autograph]
This he wrote with extreme rapidity. In my letter, I repeated the
offer about the Monasticon; with the addition of about a dozen
napoleons for the early printed books above mentioned; requesting to
have an answer, poste restante, at Vienna. No answer has since reached
me. The Abbot should seem to have preferred Statius to Dugdale. [But
his Statius NOW has declined wofully in pecuniary worth: while the
Dugdale, in its newly edited form, has risen threefold.]
LETTER IX.
THE MONASTERIES OF ST. FLORIAN, MOeLK, AND GOeTTWIC.
_Vienna; Hotel of the Emperor of
Hungary, Aug. 31, 1818._
MY DEAR FRIEND;
Give me your heartiest congratulations; for I have reached, and am well
lodged at, the extreme limit of my "BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, ANTIQUARIAN, AND
PICTURESQUE TOUR." Behold me, therefore, at VIENNA, the capital of Austria:
once the abode of mighty monarchs and renowned chieftains: and the scene
probably of more political vicissitudes than any other capital in Europe.
The ferocious Turk, the subtle Italian, and the impetuous Frenchman, have
each claimed Vienna as their place of residence by right of conquest; and
its ramparts have been probably battered by more bullets and balls than
were ever discharged at any other fortified metropolis.
At present, however, my theme must be entirely monastic. Prepare,
therefore, to receive an account of some MONASTIC VISITS, which have
perfectly won my heart over to the Institutions of ST. BENEDICT and ST.
AUGUSTIN. Indeed I seem to have been mingling with a new set of human
beings, and a new order of things; though there was much that put me in
mind of the general character of my ever-cherished University of Oxford.
Not that there is _any one_ college, whether at Oxford or at Cambridge,
which in point of architectural magnificence, can vie with some of those
which I am about to describe. My last letter, as you may remember, left us
upon the point of starting from Lintz, for the monastery of ST. FLORIAN.
That monastery is situated within about three miles of _Ens_, the next post
town from Lintz. The road thither was lined, on each side, with the plum
and the pear tree--in their alternate tints of saffron and purple--but far
from being ripe. The sight, altogether, was as pleasing as it was novel:
and especially were my spirits gladdened, on thinking of the fortunate
escape from the perils that had seemed to have awaited us in our route from
Chremsminster the preceding evening.
On turning out of the main road, about a dozen miles from Lintz, we began
to be sensible of a gentle ascent,--along a pleasant, undulating road,
skirted by meadows, copses, and corn-fields. In ten minutes, the valet
shouted out--"_Voila le Monastere de St. Florian!_" It was situated upon an
eminence, of scarcely half the height of Chremsminster; but, from the
abruptness of the ascent, as you enter the village, and make towards the
monastery, it appears, on an immediate approach, to be of a very
considerable elevation. It looked nobly, as we neared it. The walls were
massive, and seemed to be embedded in a foundation of granite. Some
pleasing little cultivated spots, like private gardens, were between the
outer walls and the main body of the building. It rained heavily as we
rolled under the archway; when an old man and an old woman demanded, rather
with astonishment than severity, what was the object of our visit? Having
received a satisfactory answer, the gates were opened, and we stopped
between two magnificent flights of steps, leading on each side to the
cloisters. Several young monks, excited by the noise of the carriage, came
trooping towards the top of the stairs, looking down upon us, and
retreating, with the nimbleness and apparent timidity of deer. Their white
streamers, or long lappets, suspended from the back of the black gown, (the
designation of the _Augustine_ order) had a very singular appearance.
Having received a letter of recommendation to the librarian, M. KLEIN, I
delivered it to the porter--and in a few seconds observed two short monks
uncovered, advancing towards me. M. Klein spoke French--after a certain
fashion--which however made us understand one another well enough; and on
walking along the cloisters, he took me by the arm to conduct me to the
Abbot. "But you have doubtless _dined_?" observed he,--turning sharply upon
me. It was only between one and two o'clock; and therefore I thought I
might be pardoned, even by the severest of their own order, for answering
in the _negative_. My guide then whispered to his attendant (who quickly
disappeared) and carried me directly to the Abbot. Such a visit was worth
paying. I entered with great solemnity; squeezing my travelling cap into a
variety of forms, as I made obeisance,--on observing a venerable man,
nearer fourscore than seventy, sitting, with a black cap quite at the back
part of his head, and surrounded by half a dozen young monks, who were
standing and waiting upon him with coffee (after dinner) which was placed
upon the table before him. He was the Principal. The old gentleman's
countenance was wan, and rather severely indented, but lighted up by a dark
and intelligent pair of eyes. His shoulders were shrouded in a large gray
fur tippet; and, on receiving me, he demonstrated every mark of
attention--by giving his unfinished cup of coffee to one of his attendants,
and, pulling off his cap, endeavouring to rise. I advanced and begged there
might be no further movement. As he spoke French, we quickly understood
each other. He bade me see every thing that was worth seeing; and, on his
renewing the _dinner_ question, and receiving an answer in the negative, he
commanded that a meal of some sort should be forthwith got ready. In this,
however, he had been anticipated by the librarian.
I made my retreating bow, and followed my guide who, by this time, had
assumed quite a pleasant air of familiarity with me. I accompanied him to
the Library. It is divided into three rooms; of which the largest, at the
further end, is the most characteristic. The central room is small, and
devoted to MSS. none as I learnt, either very old, very curious, or very
valuable. The view from this suite of apartments must, on a fine day, be
lovely. Bad as was the weather, when I looked from the windows, I observed,
to the left, some gently sloping and sweetly wooded pleasure grounds, with
the town of _Ens_, in the centre, at the distance of about three miles. To
the right, were more undulating hills, with rich meadows in the foreground;
while, immediately below, was the ornamented garden of the monastery.
The prospect _within_ doors was not quite of so gratifying a description.
It seemed to be the mere shadow of a library. Of old books, indeed, I saw
nothing worth noticing--except a white and crackling, but cropt, copy of
_Ratdolt's Appian_ of 1478, (always a beautiful book) and a _Latin Version
of Josephus_, printed at Venice in 1480 by _Maufer_, a citizen of Rouen.
This latter was really a very fine book. There was also _Ratdolt's Euclid_
of 1485--which indeed is every where abroad--but which generally has
variations in the marginal diagrams. Of _Bibles_, either Latin or German, I
saw nothing more ancient than the edition by Sorg, in the _German_ language
of the date of 1477. I paused an instant over the _Tyturell_ of 1477, (the
only really scarce book in the collection) and threw a gilded bait before
the librarian, respecting the acquisition of it;--but M. Klein quite
_screamed_ aloud at the proposition--protesting that "not a single leaf
from a single book should be parted with!" "You are quite right," added I.
"My guide eyed me as if he could have said, "How much at variance are your
thoughts and words!" And yet I spake very sincerely. Mr. Klein then placed
a clean, but cropt, copy of the _first Aldine Pindar_ before me; adding,
that he understood it to be rare. "It is most rare," rejoined I:--but it is
yet "rarer than most rare" when found UPON VELLUM!--as it is to be seen in
Lord Spencer's library." He seemed absolutely astonished at this piece of
intelligence--and talked about its pecuniary value. "No money can purchase
it. It is beyond all price"--rejoined I. Whereupon my guide was struck with
still deeper astonishment.
There were all the _Polyglott Bibles_, with the exception of the
_Complutensian_; which appears to be uncommon in the principal libraries
upon the continent. _Walton's Polyglott_ was the Royal copy; which led to a
slight discussion respecting the Royal and Republican copies. M. Klein
received most implicitly all my bibliographical doctrine upon the subject,
and expressed a great desire to read Dr. Adam Clarke's Essay upon the same.
When I spoke of the small number of copies upon LARGE PAPER, he appeared to
marvel more than ever--and declared "how happy the sight of such a copy
would make him, from his great respect for the Editor!" There was a poor
sprinkle of _English books_; among which however, I noticed Shakspeare,
Milton, Swift, and Thomson; I had declared myself sufficiently satisfied
with the inspection of the library, when dinner was announced; but could
not reconcile it to myself to depart, without asking "whether they had the
_Tewrdanckh_?" "Yes, and UPON VELLUM, too!" was the Librarian's reply. It
was a good sound copy.
The dinner was simple and nourishing. The wine was what they call the white
wine of Austria: rather thin and acid. It still continued to rain. Our
friends told us that, from the windows of the room in which we were eating,
they could, in fair weather; discern the snow-capt mountains of the
Tyrol:--that, from one side of their monastery they could look upon green
fields, pleasure gardens, and hanging woods, and from the other, upon
magnificent ranges of hills terminated by mountains covered with snow. They
seemed to be proud of their situation, as they had good reason to be. I
found them exceedingly chatty, pleasant, and even facetious. I broached the
subject of politics--but in a very guarded and general manner. The lively
Librarian, however, thought proper to observe--"that the English were doing
in _India_ what Bonaparte had been doing in _Europe_." I told him that such
a doctrine was a more frightful heresy than any which had ever crept into
his own church: at which he laughed heartily, and begged we would not spare
either the _bouille_ or the wine.
We were scarcely twenty minutes at our meal, being desirous of seeing the
CHURCH, the PICTURE GALLERY, and the SALOON--belonging to the monastery. It
was not much after three o'clock, and yet it was unusually dark for the
hour of the day. However, we followed our guides along a magnificent
corridor--desirous of seeing the pictures first. If the number of
paintings, and of apartments alone, constitute a good collection of
pictures, this of Saint Florian is doubtless a very fair specimen of a
picture gallery. There are three rooms and a corridor (or entrance passage)
filled with paintings, of which three fourths at least are palpable copies.
The _subjects_ of some of the paintings were not exactly accordant with
monastic gravity; among these I regret that I am compelled to include a
copy of a Magdalen from Rubens--and a Satyr and Sleeping Nymph, apparently
by Lucas Giordano. Nevertheless the collection is worth a second and a
third examination; which, if time and circumstances had allowed, we should
in all probability have given it. A series of subjects, fifteen in number,
illustrative of the LIFE OF ST. FLORIAN,[97] (the great fire-extinguishing
Saint,--to whom the Monastery is dedicated, and who was born at _Ens_, in
the neighbourhood) cuts a most distinguished figure in this collection.
There is a good, and I think genuine, head of an old woman by Rubens, which
I seemed to stumble upon as if by accident, and which was viewed by my
guides with a sort of apathy. Mr. Lewis was half lost in extacies before a
pretty little sketch by Paolo Veronese; when, on my observing to him that
the time was running away fast, M. Klein spoke aloud in the English
language--"_Mister Louise_, (repeating my words) _teime fleis_." He laughed
heartily upon uttering it, and seemed to enjoy the joke full as much as my
companion, to whom the words were addressed. There were several specimens
of the old German masters, but I suspect most of them were copies.
The day seemed to be growing darker and darker, although it was only
somewhere between three and four o'clock. We descended quickly to see the
church, where I found Charles (the valet) and several other spectators. We
passed through a small sacristy or vestry, in the way to it. This room was
fitted up with several small confessionals, of the prettiest forms and
workmanship imaginable: having, in front, two twisted and slender columns,
of an ebony tint: the whole--exceedingly inviting to confession. Here the
Dean met us; a grave, sober, sensible man, with whom I conversed in Latin.
We entered the church, on the tip-toe of expectation: nor were we
disappointed. It is at once spacious and magnificent; but a little too
profuse in architectural ornament. It consists of a nave and transepts,
surmounted by a dome, with a choir of very limited dimensions. The choir is
adorned, on each side, just above the several stalls, by an exceedingly
rich architrave, running the whole length, in a mixed roman and gothic
style. The altar, as usual, is a falling off. The transepts are too short,
and the dome is too small. The nave is a sort of elongated parallelogram.
It is adorned on each side by pillars of the Corinthian order, and
terminated by an _Organ_ ... of the most gorgeous and imposing appearance.
The pipes have completely the appearance of polished silver, and the wood
work is painted white, richly relieved by gold. For size and splendor
united, I had never seen any thing like it. The whole was perfectly
magical.
On entering, the Dean, M. Klein, and three or four more Benedictins, made
slight prostrations on one knee, before the altar; and, just as they rose,
to our astonishment and admiration, the organ burst forth with a power of
intonation (every stop being opened) such as I had never heard exceeded. As
there were only a few present, the sounds were necessarily increased, by
being reverberated from every part of the building: and for a moment it
seemed as if the very dome would have been unroofed, and the sides burst
asunder. We looked up; then at each other: lost in surprise, delight, and
admiration. We could not hear a word that was spoken; when, in some few
succeeding seconds, the diapason stop only was opened ... and how sweet and
touching was the melody which it imparted! "Oh Dieu! (exclaimed our valet)
que cela est ravissant, et meme penetrant." This was true enough. A solemn
stave or two of a hymn (during which a few other pipes were opened) was
then performed by the organist ... and the effect was, as if these notes
had been chanted by an invisible choir of angels. The darkness of the
heavens added much to the solemnity of the whole. Silence ensuing, we were
asked how we liked the church, the organ, and the organist? Of course
there could be but one answer to make. The pulpit--situated at an angle
where the choir and transept meet, and opposite to the place where we
entered--was constructed of the black marble of Austria, ornamented with
gold: the whole in sober good taste, and admirably appropriate.
We left this beautiful interior, to snatch a hasty view of the dormitories
and saloon, and to pay our farewell respects to the Principal. The
architect of this church was a Florentine, and it was built something more
than a century ago. It is doubtless in too florid a style.
Instead of calling the bed-chambers by the homely name of "dormitories,"
they should be designated (some at least), as state bed rooms. At each
corner of several of the beds was a carved figure, in gilt--serving as a
leg. The beds are generally capacious, without canopies; but their
covertures--in crimson, blue, or yellow silk--interspersed with spots of
gold or silver--gave indication, in their faded state, of their original
costliness and splendor. The rooms are generally large: but I hurried
through them, as every thing--from the gloomy state of the afternoon, and
more especially from the absence of almost every piece of furniture--had a
sombre and melancholy air. Nothing is more impressive than the traces of
departed grandeur. They had once (as I learnt) carousals and rejoicings in
this monastery;--and the banquet below made sweet and sound the slumbers
above. But matters have recently taken a different and less auspicious
turn. The building stands, and will long stand--unless assailed by the
musquet and cannon--a proud monument of wealth and of art: while the
revenues for its support ... are wasting every year! But I hope my
intelligence is incorrect.
The highest gratification was yet in store for me: in respect to an
architectural treat. In our way to the Saloon, I noticed, over the door of
a passage, a small whole length of a man, in a formal peruke and dress,
walking with a cane in his hand. A noble building or two appeared in the
background. "Who might this be?" "That, Sir, (replied the Dean) is the
portrait of the architect of THIS MONASTERY and of MOeLK. He was born, and
lived, in an obscure village in the neighbourhood; and rose to unrivalled
eminence from the pure strength of native genius and prudent conduct." I
looked at the portrait with increased admiration. "Might I have a copy of
it--for the purpose of getting it engraved?" "There can surely be no
objection,"--replied the Dean. But alas, my friend, I fear it will never be
my lot to possess this portrait--in _any_ form or condition.
If my admiration of this architect increased as I continued to gaze upon
his portrait, to what a pitch was it raised on entering the _Saloon_! I
believe that I may safely say I never before witnessed such a banquetting
room. It could not be less than sixty feet long, by forty feet wide and
forty high;--and almost entirely composed of Salzburg marble,[98] which is
of a deep red tint, but mellow and beautiful. The columns, in exceedingly
bold alto-relievo, spring from a dado about the height of a man's chest,
and which is surmounted by a bold and beautiful architrave. These columns,
of the Ionic and Corinthian orders, judiciously intermixed, rise to a fine
bold height: the whole being terminated by a vaulted ceiling of a beautiful
and light construction, and elaborately and richly ornamented. I never
witnessed a finer proportioned or a more appropriately ornamented room. It
is, of its kind, as perfect as the Town Hall at Augsbourg;[99] and suitable
for an imperial coronation.
To a question respecting the antiquity of the monastery,[100] J M. Klein
replied, that their _crypt_ was considered to be of the eleventh century. I
had not a moment's leisure to examine it, but have some doubts of the
accuracy of such a date. The Dean, M. Klein, and several monks followed us
down stairs, where the carriage was drawn up to receive us--and helping us
into it, they wished us a hearty farewell. Assuredly I am not likely to
forget THE MONASTERY OF ST. FLORIAN.
We were not long in reaching _Ens_, the first post town on the high road
from Lintz to Vienna. On approaching it, our valet bade us notice the
various signs of _reparation_ of which the outer walls and the fronts of
many houses gave evidence. Nearly half of the town, in short, (as he
informed us) had been destroyed by fire in Bonaparte's advance upon Vienna.
The cannon balls had done much, but the flames had done more. We slept at
the next post town, _Strengberg_, but could not help continuing to express
our surprise and admiration of the fruit trees (the pear and plum) which
lined each side of the road. We had determined upon dining at Moelk the next
day. The early morning was somewhat inauspicious; but as the day advanced,
it grew bright and cheerful. Some delightful glimpses of the Danube, to the
left, from the more elevated parts of the road, accompanied us the whole
way; till we caught the first view, beneath a bright blue sky, of the
towering church and MONASTERY OF MOeLK.[101] Conceive what you please, and
yet you shall not conceive the situation of this monastery. Less elevated
above the road than Chremsminster, but of a more commanding style of
architecture, and of considerably greater extent, it strikes you--as the
Danube winds round and washes its rocky base--as one of the noblest
edifices in the world. The wooded heights of the opposite side of the
Danube crown the view of this magnificent edifice, in a manner hardly to be
surpassed. There is also a beautiful play of architectural lines and
ornament in the front of the building, indicative of a pure Italian taste,
and giving to the edifice, if not the air of towering grandeur, at least of
dignified splendour. I send you a small bird's-eye view of it--necessarily
furnishing a very inadequate representation--for which I am indebted to
Professor Pallas, the Sub-Principal.
[Illustration]
As usual, I ordered a late dinner, intending to pay my respects to the
Principal, and obtain permission to inspect the library. My late monastic
visits had inspired me with confidence; and I marched up the steep sides of
the hill, upon which the monastery is built, quite assured of the success
of the visit I was about to pay. You must now accompany the bibliographer
to the monastery. In five minutes from entering the outer gate of the first
quadrangle--looking towards Vienna, and which is the more ancient part of
the building--I was in conversation with the Vice Principal and Librarian,
each of us speaking Latin. I delivered the letter which I had received at
Salzburg, and proceeded to the library. In proceeding with the Librarian
along the first corridor, I passed a portly figure, with an expressive
countenance, dressed precisely like the Duke of Norfolk,[102] in black
waistcoat, breeches, and stockings, with a gray coat. He might seem to be a
sort of small paper copy of that well-known personage, for he resembled him
in countenance as well as in dress. On meeting, he saluted me graciously:
and he had no sooner passed, than my guide whispered in my ear, "THAT is
the famous bibliographer, the ABBE STRATTMAN, late principal librarian to
the Emperor." I was struck at this intelligence; and wished to run back
after the Abbe,--but, in a minute, found myself within the library. I first
went into a long, narrow, room--devoted, the greater part, to MSS.:--and at
the hither end of which (that is, the end where I entered) were two
figures--as large as, and painted after, the life. They were cut out in
wood, or thick pasteboard; and were stuck in the centre of the space
between the walls. One was an old gentleman, with a pair of bands, and a
lady, his wife, opposite to him. Each was sitting upon a chair. A dog (if I
remember rightly) was between them. The effect was at first rather
_startling_; for these good folks, although they had been sitting for the
best part of a century, looked like life, and as if they were going to rise
up, and interrogate you for impertinently intruding upon their privacy. On
nearing them, I found that the old gentleman had been a great pedagogue,
and a great benefactor to the library: in short, the very MSS. by which we
were surrounded were _solid_ proofs of his liberality. I was urgent and
particular about the _contents_ of these MSS.; but my guide (otherwise a
communicative and well-informed man) answered my questions in a manner so
general, as to lead me to conclude that they had never been sufficiently
examined. There might be at least four thousand volumes in this long and
narrow room.
From thence we proceeded, across a passage, to a small room--filled with
common useful books, for the young men of which the monastic society is now
composed; and who I learnt were about one hundred and twenty in number.
There were, however, at one end of this room, some coins and medals. I was
curious about ascertaining whether they had any _Greek gold coins_, but was
answered that they had none. This room is divided into two, by a partition
something like the modern fashion of dividing our drawing rooms. The whole
is profusely ornamented with paintings executed upon the walls; rather
elegantly than otherwise. The view from this library is really
enchanting--and put every thing seen, from a similar situation at Landshut,
and almost even at Chremsminster, out of my recollection. You look down
upon the Danube, catching a fine sweep of the river, as it widens in its
course towards Vienna. A man might sit, read, and gaze--in such a
situation--till he fancied he had scarcely one earthly want! I now
descended a small stair-case, which brought me directly into the large
library--forming the right wing of the building, looking up the Danube
towards Lintz. I had scarcely uttered three notes of admiration, when the
ABBE STRATTMAN entered; and to my surprise and satisfaction, addressed me
by name. We immediately commenced an ardent unintermitting conversation in
the French language, which the Abbe speaks fluently and correctly. We
darted at once into the lore of bibliography of the fifteenth century; when
the Abbe descanted largely upon the wonders I should see at
Vienna:--especially the Sweynheyms and Pannartz' UPON VELLUM! "Here
(continued he) there is absolutely nothing worthy of your inspection. We
have here no edit. prin. of _Horace_, or _Virgil_, or _Terence_, or
_Lucretius_: a copy of the _Decretals of Pope Boniface_, of the date of
1465, is our earliest and only VELLUM treasure of the XVth century. But you
will doubtless take the _Monastery of Goettwic_ in your way?" I replied that
I was wholly ignorant of the existence of such a monastery. "Then see
it--(said, he) and see it carefully; for the library contains _Incunabula_
of the most curious and scarce kind. Besides, its situation is the noblest
in Austria." You will give me credit for not waiting for a _second_
importunity to see such a place, before I answered--"I will most assuredly
visit the monastery of Goettwic."
I now took a leisurely survey of the library; which is, beyond all doubt,
the finest room of its kind which I have seen upon the Continent:--not for
its size, but for its style of architecture, and the materials of which it
is composed. I was told that it was "the Imperial Library in
miniature:"--but with this difference, let me here add, in favour of
Moelk--that it looks over a magnificently-wooded country, with the Danube
rolling its rapid course at its base. The wainscot and shelves are walnut
tree, of different shades, inlaid, or dovetailed, surmounted by gilt
ornaments. The pilasters have Corinthian capitals of gilt; and the bolder
or projecting parts of a gallery, which surrounds the room, are covered
with the same metal. Every thing is in harmony. This library may be about a
hundred feet in length, by forty in width. It is sufficiently well
furnished with books, of the ordinary useful class, and was once, I
suspect, much richer in the bibliographical lore of the fifteenth century.
The Abbe Strattman bade me examine a _MS. of Horace_, of the twelfth
century, which he said had been inspected by Mitscherlich.[103] It seemed
to be of the period adjudged to it. The Vice-Principal, M. PALLAS, now made
his appearance. He talked French readily, and we all four commenced a very
interesting conversation, "Did any books ever travel out of this
library?"--said I. "Surely there must be many which are rather objects of
curiosity than of utility: rarely consulted, no doubt; but which, by being
exchanged for others of a more modern and useful description, would
contribute more effectually to the purposes of public education, in an
establishment of such magnitude?"
These questions I submitted with great deference, and without the least
hesitation, to the Vice Principal; who replied in such a manner as to
induce me immediately to ascend the staircase, and commence a
reconnaissance among the books placed above the gallery. The result of
twenty minutes examination was, if not absolutely of the _most_ gratifying
kind, at least sufficient to induce me to offer _twenty louis d'or_ for
some thirty volumes, chiefly thin quartos, containing many Greek
grammatical and philosophical tracts, of which I had never before seen
copies. Some scarce and curious theological Latin tracts were also in this
number. I turned the books upon their fore-edges, leaving their ends
outwards, in order to indicate those which had been selected. M. Pallas
told me that he could say nothing definitive in reply,[104] for that the
matter must be submitted to the Prelate, or head of the monastery, who, at
that time, was at Vienna, perhaps at the point of death. From the library
we went to the church. This latter is situated between the two wings: the
wings themselves forming the Saloon and the library. As we were about to
leave the library, the Abbe observed--"Here, we have food for the _mind_:
in the opposite quarter we dine--which is food for the _body_:[105] between
both, is the church, which contains food for the _soul_." On entering the
corridor, I looked up and saw the following inscription (from 1 _Mac._ c.
xii. v. 9.) over the library door: "_Habentes solatio sanctos libros qui
sunt in manibus nostris_." My next gratification was, a view of the
portrait of BERTHOLDUS DIETMAYR--the founder, or rather the restorer, both
of the library and of the monastery--possessing a countenance full of
intelligence and expression. Beneath the portrait, which is scarcely half
the size of life, is the following distich:
_Bertholdi Dietmayr Quidquid Mortale, Tabella,
Ingentemque animum_ BIBLIOTHECA, _refert._
"There," exclaimed the Abbe Strattman--"there you have the portrait of a
_truly_ great man: one of the three select and privy counsellors of the
Emperor Charles VI. Dietmayr was a man of a truly lofty soul, of a refined
taste, and of unbounded wealth and liberality of spirit. Even longer than
this edifice shall last, will the celebrity of its founder endure." My
heart overflowed with admiration as I heard the words of the Abbe, gazing,
at the same time, intently upon the portrait of the Prelate Dietmayr. Such
men keep the balance of this world even.
On reaching the last descending step, just before entering the church, the
Vice Principal bade me look upwards and view the cork-screw stair-case. I
did so: and to view and admire was one and the same operation of the mind.
It was the most perfect and extraordinary thing of the kind which I had
ever seen--the consummation (as I was told) of that particular species of
art. The church is the very perfection of ecclesiastical Roman
architecture: that of Chremsminster, although fine, being much inferior to
it in loftiness and richness of decoration. The windows are fixed so as to
throw their concentrated light beneath a dome, of no ordinary height, and
of no ordinary elegance of decoration; but this dome is suffering from
damp, and the paintings upon the ceiling will, unless repaired, be effaced
in the course of a few years. The church is in the shape of a cross; and at
the end of each of the transepts, is a rich altar, with statuary, in the
style of art usual about a century ago. The pews--made of dark mahogany or
walnut tree, much after the English fashion, but lower and more
tasteful--are placed on each side of the nave, on entering; with ample
space between them. They are exclusively appropriated to the tenants of the
monastery. At the end of the nave, you look to the left, opposite,--and
observe, placed in a recess--a PULPIT ... which, from top to bottom, is
completely covered with gold. And yet, there is nothing gaudy, or
tasteless, or glaringly obtrusive, in this extraordinary clerical rostrum.
The whole is in the most perfect taste; and perhaps more judgment was
required to manage such an ornament, or appendage,--consistently with the
splendid style of decoration exacted by the founder--(for it was expressly
the Prelate Dietmayr's wish that it _should_ be so adorned) than may, on
first consideration, be supposed. In fact, the whole church is in a blaze
of gold; and I was told that the gilding alone cost upwards of ninety
thousand florins. Upon the whole, I understood that the church of this
monastery was considered as the most beautiful in Austria; and I can easily
believe it to be so.
The time flew away so quickly that there was no opportunity of seeing the
Saloon. Indeed, I was informed that it was occupied by the students--an
additional reason why I _ought_ to have seen it. "But have you no old
paintings, Mr. Vice Principal--no Burgmairs, Cranachs, or Albert Durers?"
said I to M. Pallas. "Ha! (observed he in reply,) you like old pictures,
then, as well as old books. Come with me, and you shall be satisfied." So
saying, the Abbe Strattman[106] left us, and I followed the Vice
Principal--into a small, wainscoted room, of which he touched the springs
of some of the compartments, and anon there was exhibited to my view a
series of sacred subjects, relating to the Life of Christ, executed by the
first and last named masters: exceedingly fresh, vigorously painted, and
one or two of them very impressive, but bordering upon the grotesque. I am
not sure that I saw any thing more striking of the kind even in the
extraordinary collection at Augsbourg. From this room I was conducted into
the Prelate's apartment, where I observed a bed--in an arched recess--which
might be called a bed of state. "Our Prelate has left his apartment for the
last time; he will never sleep in this bed again"--observed M. Pallas,
fixing himself at the foot of it, and directing his eyes towards the
pillow. I saw what it was to be beloved and respected; for the Vice
Principal took the end of his gown to wipe away a little _dust_ (as he was
pleased to call it--but I suspect it was a starting tear) which had fallen
into his eye. I was then shewn a set of china, manufactured at Vienna--upon
some of the pieces of which were painted views of the monastery. This had
been presented to the Prelate; and I was then, as a final exhortation,
requested to view the country around me. Need I again remark, that this
country was enchantingly fine?
On returning to the inn, and dining, we lingered longer than we were wont
to do over our dessert and white wine, when the valet came to announce to
us that from thence to _St. Poelten_ was a long stage; and that if we wished
to reach the latter before dark, we had not ten minutes to spare. This hint
was sufficient: and the ten minutes had scarcely elapsed when we were on
the high road to St. Poelten. It was indeed almost with the last glimmer of
daylight that we entered this town, yet I could observe, on descending the
hill by which we entered it, a stone crucifix, with the usual accompanying
group. I resolved to give it a careful examination on the morrow.
The inn at St. Poelten (I think it was the Dolphin) surprised us by its
cheerfulness and neatness. The rooms were papered so as to represent gothic
interiors, or ornamented gardens, or shady bowers. Every thing
was--almost--as an Englishman could wish it to be. Having learnt that the
MONASTERY OF GOeTTWIC was a digression of only some twelve or fourteen
miles, I resolved to set off to visit it immediately after an early
breakfast. We had scarcely left the town, when we observed a group of
rustics, with a crucifix carried in front--indicating that they were about
to visit some consecrated spot, for the purpose of fulfilling a vow or
performing an annual pilgrimage. I stopped the carriage, to take a survey
of so novel a scene; but I confess that there was nothing in it which
induced me to wish to be one of the party. If I mistake not, this was the
first pilgrimage or procession, of the kind, which I had seen in Austria,
or even in Bavaria. It was a sorry cavalcade. Some of the men, and even
women, were without shoes and stockings; and they were scattered about the
road in a very loose, straggling manner. Many of the women wore a piece of
linen, or muslin, half way up their faces, over the mouth; and although the
road was not very smooth, both men and women appeared to be in excellent
spirits, and to move briskly along--occasionally singing, and looking up to
the crucifix--which a stout young man carried at the head of them. They
were moving in the direction of the Monastery of Goettwic.
It was cold and cloudy at starting; but on leaving the main road, and
turning to the left, the horizon cleared up--and it was evident that a fine
day was in store for us. Our expectations were raised in proportion to the
increasing beauty of the day. The road, though a cross one, was good;
winding through a pleasant country, and affording an early glimpse of the
monastery in question--at the distance of at least ten miles--and situated
upon a lofty eminence. The first view of it was grand and imposing, and
stimulated us to urge our horses to a speedier course. The country
continued to improve. Some vineyards were beginning to shew the early blush
of harvest; and woods of fir, and little meandring streams running between
picturesque inequalities of ground, gave an additional interest to every
additional mile of the route. At length we caught a glimpse of a crowd of
people, halting, in all directions. Some appeared to be sitting, others
standing, more lying; and a good number were engaged in devotion before a
statue. As we approached them, we observed the statue to be that of St.
Francis; around which this numerous group of pilgrims appeared to have
marshalled themselves--making a HALT in their pilgrimage (as we afterwards
learnt) to the monastery of Goettwic.
The day continued to become more and more brilliant, and the scenery to
keep pace with the weather. It was evident that we were nearing the
monastery very rapidly. On catching the first distinct view of it, my
companion could not restrain his admiration. At this moment, from the
steepness of the ascent, I thought it prudent to descend, and to walk to
the monastery. The view from thence was at once commanding and enchanting.
The Danube was the grand feature in the landscape; while, near its very
borders, at the distance perhaps of three English miles, stood the post
town of _Chrems_. The opposite heights of the Danube were well covered with
wood. The sun now shone in his meridian splendour, and every feature of the
country seemed to be in a glow with his beams. I next turned my thoughts to
gain entrance within the monastery, and by the aid of my valet it was not
long before that wished for object was accomplished. The interior is large
and handsome, but of less architectural splendor than Moelk or even St.
Florian. The librarian, Odilo Klama, was from home. Not a creature was to
be found; and I was pacing the cloisters with a dejected air, when my
servant announced to me that the Vice Principal would receive me, and
conduct me to the Head or President.
This was comforting intelligence. I revived in an instant; and following,
along one corridor, and up divers stair-cases, I seemed to be gaining the
summit of the building, when a yet more spacious corridor brought me to the
door of the President's apartments: catching views, on my way thither, of
increasing extent and magnificence. But all consideration of exterior
objects was quickly lost on my reception at head quarters. The Principal,
whose name is ALTMANN, was attired in a sort of half-dignity dress; a gold
chain and cross hung upon his breast, and a black silk cap covered his
head. A gown, and what seemed to be a cassock, covered his body. He had the
complete air of a gentleman, and might have turned his fiftieth year. His
countenance bespoke equal intelligence and benevolence:--but alas! not a
word of French could he speak--and Latin was therefore necessarily resorted
to by both parties. I entreated him to forgive all defects of composition
and of pronunciation; at which he smiled graciously. The Vice Principal
then bowed to the Abbot and retreated; but not before I had observed them
to whisper apart--and to make gesticulations which I augured to portend
something in the shape of providing refreshment, if not dinner. My
suspicion was quickly confirmed; for, on the Vice Principal quitting the
apartment, the Abbot observed to me--"you will necessarily partake of our
dinner--which is usually at _one_ o'clock; but which I have postponed till
_three_, in order that I may conduct you over the monastery, and shew you
what is worthy of observation. You have made a long journey hither, and
must not be disappointed."
The manner in which this was spoken was as courteous as the purport of the
speech was hospitable. "Be pleased to be covered (continued the Abbot) and
I will conduct you forthwith to the Library: although I regret to add that
our Librarian Odilo is just now from home--having gone, for the day, upon a
botanical excursion towards Chrems--as it is now holiday time." In our way
to the library, I asked the Principal respecting the revenues of the
establishment and its present condition--whether it were flourishing or
otherwise--adding, that Chremsminster appeared to me to be in a very
flourishing state." "They are much wealthier (observed the Principal) at
Chremsminster than we are here. Establishments like this, situated near a
metropolis, are generally more _severely_ visited than are those in a
retired and remote part of the kingdom. Our very situation is inviting to a
foe, from its commanding the adjacent country. Look at the prospect around
you. It is unbounded. On yon opposite wooded heights, (on the other side of
the Danube) we all saw, from these very windows, the fire and smoke of the
advanced guard of the French army, in contest with the Austrians, upon
Bonaparte's first advance towards Vienna. The French Emperor himself took
possession of this monastery. He slept here, and we entertained him the
next day with the best _dejeune a la fourchette_ which we could afford. He
seemed well satisfied with his reception; but I own that I was glad when he
left us. Strangers to arms in this tranquil retreat, and visited only, as
you may now visit us, for the purpose of peaceful hospitality, it agitated
us extremely to come in contact with warriors and chieftains.
The preceding was not delivered in one uninterrupted flow of language; but
I only string it together as answers to various questions put by myself.
"Observe yonder"--continued the Abbot--"do you notice an old castle in the
distance, to the left, situated almost upon the very banks of the Danube?"
"I observe it well," replied I. "That castle, (answered he) so tradition
reports, once held your Richard the First, when he was detained a prisoner
by Leopold Marquis of Austria, on his return from the Holy-Land." The more
the Abbot spoke, and the more I continued to gaze around, the more I
fancied myself treading upon faery ground, and that the scene in which I
was engaged partook of the illusion of romance. "Our funds (continued my
intelligent guide, as he placed his hand upon my arm, and arrested our
progress towards the library) need be much more abundant than they really
are. We have great burdens to discharge. All our food is brought from a
considerable distance, and we are absolutely dependant upon our neighbours
for water, as there are neither wells nor springs in the soil." "I wonder
(replied I) why such a spot was chosen--except for its insulated and
commanding situation--as water is the first requisite in every monastic
establishment?" "Do you then overlook the _Danube_?"--resumed he--"We get
our fish from thence; and, upon the whole, feel our wants less than it
might be supposed."
In our way to the Library, I observed a series of oil paintings along the
corridor--which represented the history of the founder, and of the
foundation, of the monastery.[107] The artist's name was, if I remember
rightly, Helgendoeffer--or something like it. Many of the subjects were
curious, and none of them absolutely ill executed. I observed the devil, or
some imp, introduced in more than one picture; and remarked upon it to my
guide. He said--"where will you find truth unmixed with fiction?" My
observation was adroitly parried; and we now found ourselves close to the
library door; where three or four Benedictins, (for I should have told you
that this famous monastery is of the order of _St. Benedict_) professors on
the establishment, were apparently waiting to receive us. They first
saluted the Abbot very respectfully, and then myself--with a degree of
cheerfulness amounting almost to familiarity. In a remote and strange
place, of such a character, nothing is more encouraging than such a
reception. Two of our newly joined associates could luckily speak the
French language, which rendered my intercourse with the Principal yet more
pleasing and satisfactory to myself. The library door was now opened, and I
found myself within a long and spacious room--of which the book-shelves
were composed of walnut tree--but of which the architectural ornaments were
scarcely to be endured, after having so recently seen those in the library
of Moelk. However, it may be fairly said that the Library was worthy of the
Monastery: well stored with books and MSS., and probably the richest in
bibliographical lore in Austria, after that at Vienna.
We now entered the saloon, for dinner. It was a larger light, and lofty
room. The ceiling was covered with paintings of allegorical subjects, in
fresco, descriptive of the advantages of piety and learning. Among the
various groups, I thought I could discern--as I could only take a hasty
survey during my meal--the apotheosis of the founder of the monastery.
Perhaps I rather wished to see it there, than that it was absolutely
depicted. However, we sat down, at the high table--precisely as you may
remember it in the halls at Oxford--to a plentiful and elegant repast. The
Principal did me the honour of placing me at his right hand. Grace was no
sooner said, than Mr. Lewis made his appearance, and seemed to view the
scene before him with mingled delight and astonishment. He had, in fact,
just completed his sketch of the monastery, and was well satisfied at
seeing me in such quarters, and so occupied. The brethren were also well
pleased to receive him, but first begged to have a glance at the
drawing--with which they were highly gratified.
My companion having joined the festive board, the conversation, and the
cups of Rhenish wine, seemed equally to circulate without restraint. We
were cheerful, even to loud mirth; and the smallness of the party, compared
with the size of the hall, caused the sounds of our voices to be
reverberated from every quarter. Meantime, the sun threw his radiant beams
through a window of noble dimensions, quite across the saloon--so as to
keep us in shadow, and illuminate the other parts of the room. Thus we were
cool, but the day without had begun to be sultry. Behind me, or rather
between the Abbot and myself, stood a grave, sedate, and inflexible-looking
attendant--of large, square dimensions--habited in a black gown, which
scarcely reached the skirts of his coat. He spake not; he moved not; save
when he saw my glass emptied, which without any previous notice or
permission, he made a scrupulous point of filling ... even to the very
brim!... with the most highly flavoured Rhenish wine which I had yet tasted
in Germany. Our glasses being of the most capacious dimensions, it behoved
me to cast an attentive eye upon this replenishing process; and I told the
worthy master of the table that we should be quickly revelling in our cups.
He assured me that the wine, although good, was weak; but begged that I
would consider myself at liberty to act as I pleased.
In due time, the cloth was cleared; and a dessert, consisting chiefly of
delicious peaches, succeeded. A new order of bottles was introduced; tall,
square, and capacious; which were said to contain wine of the same quality,
but of a more delicate flavour. It proved indeed to be most exquisite. The
past labours of the day, together with the growing heat, had given a relish
to every thing which I tasted; and, in the full flow of my spirits, I
proposed--a sentiment, which I trusted would be considered as perfectly
orthodox--"Long life, and happy times to the present members, and
increasing prosperity to, the monastery of Goettwic." It was received and
drank with enthusiasm. The Abbot then proceeded to give me an account of a
visit paid him by Lord Minto, some years ago, when the latter was
ambassador at Vienna; and he spoke of that nobleman's intelligent
conversation, and amiable manners, in a way which did him great credit.
"Come, Sir;" said he: "you shall not find me ungrateful. I propose drinking
prosperity and long life to every representative of the British nation who
is resident at Vienna. May the union between your country and ours become
indissoluble." I then requested that we might withdraw; as the hours were
flying away, and as we purposed sleeping within one stage of Vienna on that
same evening.
"Your wishes shall be mine," answered the Abbot. Whereupon he rose--with
all the company--and stepping some few paces backwards, placed his hands
across his breast upon the gold cross; half closed his eyes; and said
grace--briefly and softly; in a manner the most impressive which I had ever
witnessed. We then quickly left the noble room in which we had been
banquetting, and prepared to visit the church and what might be called the
state apartments, which we had not before seen. After the rooms at St.
Florian, there was not much particularly to admire in those of Goettwic:
except that they appeared to be better lighted, and most of them commanded
truly enchanting views of the Danube and of the surrounding country. In one
room, of smaller dimensions, ornamented chiefly in white and gold (if I
remember rightly) a _Collection of Prints_ was kept; but those which I saw
were not very remarkable for their antiquity, or for their beauty of
subject or of impression. The sun was now getting low, and we had a stage
of at least fourteen miles to accomplish ere we could think of retiring to
rest.
"Show us now, worthy Sir, your crypt and church; and then, with pain be it
pronounced, we must bid you farewell. Within little more than two hours,
darkness will have covered the earth." Such was my remark to the Abbot; who
replied: "Say not so: we cannot part with you yet. At any rate you must not
go without a testimony of the respect we entertain for the object of your
visit. Those who love books, will not object to increase their own stock by
a copy of our CHRONICON GOTWICENSE--commenced by one of my learned
predecessors, but alas! never completed. Come with me to my room, before we
descend to the church, and receive the work in question." Upon which, the
amiable Head of the monastery set off, at rather a hurried pace, with
myself by the side of him, along several corridors--towards his own
apartment, to present me with this Chronicle. I received it with every
demonstration of respect--and entreated the Abbot to inscribe a "_dono
dedit_" in the fly leaf, which would render it yet more valuable in my
estimation.[108] He cheerfully complied with this request. The courtesy,
the frankness, the downright heartiness of feeling with which all this was
done--together with the value of the present--rendered it one of the most
delightful moments of my existence. I instinctively caught the Abbot's arm,
pressed his hand with a cordial warmth between both of mine--and pausing
one little moment, exclaimed "_Dies hic omnino commemoratione dignus!_"
A sort of sympathetic shouting succeeded; for, by this time, the whole of
our party had reached the Abbot's rooms. I now requested, to be immediately
taken to the church; and within five minutes we were in the crypt. It
scarcely merits one word of description on the score of antiquity; and may
be, at the farthest, somewhere about three centuries old. The church is
small and quite unpretending, as a piece of architecture. On quitting the
church, and passing through the last court, or smaller quadrangle, we came
to the outer walls: and leaving them, we discerned--below--the horses,
carriage, and valet ... waiting to receive us. Our amiable Host and his
Benedictin brethren determined to walk a little way down the hill, to see
us fairly seated and ready to start. I entreated and remonstrated that this
might not be; but in vain. On reaching the carriage, we all shook hands
very cordially together, but certainly I pressed those of the Abbot more
earnestly than the rest. We then saluted by uncovering; and, stepping into
the carriage, I held aloft the first volume of the GOeTTWIC
CHRONICLE--exclaiming ... "_Valete, Domini eruditissimi: dies hic
commemoratione dignus_:" to which the Abbot replied, with peculiarly
emphatic sonorousness of voice, "_Vale: Deus te, omnesque tibi charissimos,
conservet_." They then stopped for a moment ... as the horses began to be
put in motion ... and retracing their steps up the hill, towards the outer
gate of the monastery, disappeared. I thought--but it might not be so--that
I discerned the Abbot, at the distance of some two hundred yards, yet
lingering alone--with his right arm raised, and shaking it as the last and
most affectionate token of farewell.
The evening was serene and mild; and the road, although a cross way, was
perfectly sound--winding through a country of fertility and picturesque
beauty. We saw few vineyards: but those which met our eyes showed the grape
to be in its full purple tint, if not beginning to ripen. I had resolved
upon stopping to sleep at _Sirghartskirchen_ within two stages of
Vienna--thus avoiding the post town of _Perschling_, which is situated in
the direct road to Vienna from _St. Poelten_--which latter place, as you may
remember, we had left in the morning. Before the darker shades of evening
began to prevail, we turned round to catch a farewell glance of the
hospitable monastery which we had left behind--and were lucky in viewing
it, (scarcely less than seven or eight miles in our rear) just as the
outline of its pinnacles could be discerned against a clear, and yet almost
brilliant, sky.
It was quite dark, and nearer upon eleven than ten o'clock, when we entered
the insignificant post town of _Sirghartskirchen_--where we stretched our
limbs rather than reposed; and after a hasty, but not very ill provided
breakfast, the next morning, we pushed on for _Burkersdorf_, the last post
town on that side of Vienna. It may be about nine English miles from
Burkersdorf to the capital; of which the greater part is rather agreeable
than otherwise. It was here, as in approaching Strasbourg, that I turned my
eyes in all directions to catch an early glimpse of the tower of St.
Stephen's Cathedral, but in vain. At length, to the right, we saw the
magnificent chateau of _Schoenbrunn_.
The road now became flat and sandy, and the plains in the vicinity of the
capital destitute of trees. "Voila la Cathedrale!" shouted the valet. It
was to the left, or rather a little in front: of a tapering, spire-like
form: but, seeing only a small portion of it--the lower part being
concealed by the intervening rising ground--I could form no judgment of its
height. We now neared the suburbs, which are very extensive, and swarming
with population. I learnt that they entirely surrounded the capital, in an
equal state of populousness. The barriers were now approached: and all the
fears, which my accidental travelling acquaintance at Augsbourg had put
into my head, began to revive and to take possession of me. But what has an
honest man to fear? "Search closely (observed I to the principal examining
officer) for I suspect that there is something contraband at the bottom of
the trunk. Do you forbid the importation of an old Greek manual of
devotion?"--said I, as I saw him about to lay his hand upon the precious
Aldine volume, of which such frequent mention has been already made. The
officer did not vouchsafe even to open the leaves--treating it,
questionless, with a most sovereign contempt; but crying, "bah!--vous
pouvez bien passer," he replaced the things which he had very slightly
discomposed, and added that he wished all contraband articles to consist of
similar materials. We parted with mutual smiles; but I thought there
lingered something like a feeling of reproach, in the last quiver or turn
of his lip, at my not having slipt two or three florins into his
hand--which was broad and brawny enough to have grasped threescore or a
hundred. "I will remember you on my return,"--exclaimed I, as the carriage
drove off. He gave me a most sceptical shake of the head, as he retreated
into his little tenement, like a mastiff into his kennel.
The whole of VIENNA, as it now seemed--with its cathedral, churches,
palaces, and ramparts--was before us. As we approached the chief entrance,
or gateway, I recognised the _Imperial Library_; although it was only a
back view of it. In truth, it appeared to be just as I remembered it in the
vignette-frontispiece of Denis's folio catalogue of the Latin Theological
MSS. contained in the same library. My memory proved to be faithful; for we
were assured that the building in view _was_ the library in question. It
was our intention to take up our quarters at the principal inn, called the
_Empress of Austria_; and, with this view, we drove up to the door of that
hotel: but a tall, full-dressed man, with a broad sash across his body, and
a silver-tipped staff in his right hand, marched pompously up to the door
of the carriage, took off his hat, and informed us with great solemnity
that "the hotel was entirely filled, and that his master could not have the
honour of entertaining us." On receiving this intelligence, we were
comforted by the assurance, on the part of the post-boy and valet, that the
second hotel, called the _Crown of Hungary_,--and situated in the
_Himelfort Gasse_, or _Heaven-gate Street_--was in every respect as
desirable as that which we were compelled to quit. Accordingly we alighted
at the door of the _Hungarische Krone_--equally marvelling, all the way
thither, at the enormous size of the houses, and at the narrowness of the
streets.
But it is time to terminate this epistle. Yet I must not fail informing
you, that every thing strikes me as approximating very much to my own
native country. The countenances, the dresses, the manners of the
inhabitants, are very nearly English. My apartments are gay as well as
comfortable. A green-morocco sofa, beneath a large and curiously cut
looking-glass--with chairs having velvet seats, and wainscot and ceiling
very elegantly painted and papered--all remind me that I am in a
respectable hotel. A strange sight occupied my attention the very first
morning after my arrival. As the day broke fully into my room--it might be
between five and six o'clock--I heard a great buzzing of voices in the
street. I rose, and looking out of window, saw, from one end of the street
to the other, a countless multitude of women--sitting, in measured ranks,
with pots of cream and butter before them. It was in fact the chief market
day for fruit, cream, and butter; and the _Himelfort Gasse_ is the
principal mart for the sale of these articles. The weather has recently
become milder, and I feel therefore in better trim for the attack upon the
IMPERIAL LIBRARY, where I deliver my credentials, or introductory letters,
to-morrow. God bless you.
[97] St. FLORIAN was a soldier and sufferer in the time of the Emperors
Diocletian and Maximinian. He perished in the tenth and last
persecution of the Christian Church by the Romans. The judge, who
condemned him to death, was Aquilinus. After being importuned to
renounce the Christian religion, and to embrace the Pagan creed, as
the only condition of his being rescued from an immediate and cruel
death, St. Florian firmly resisted all entreaties; and shewed a
calmness, and even joyfulness of spirits, in proportion to the stripes
inflicted upon him previous to execution. He was condemned to be
thrown into the river, from a bridge, with a stone fastened round his
neck. The soldiers at first hesitated about carrying the judgment of
Aquilinus into execution. A pause of an hour ensued: which was
employed by St. Florian in prayer and ejaculation! A furious young man
then rushed forward, and precipitated the martyr into the river:
"Fluvius autem suscipiens martyrem Christi, expavit, et elevatis undis
suis, in quodam eminentiori loco in saxo corpus ejus deposuit. Tunc
annuente favore divino, adveniens aquila, expansis alis suis in modum
crucis, eum protegebat." _Acta Sanctorum; Mens. Maii_, vol. i. p. 463.
St. Florian is a popular saint both in Bavaria and Austria. He is
usually represented in armour, pouring water from a bucket to
extinguish a house, or a city, in flames, which is represented below.
Raderus, in his _Bavaria Sacra_, vol. i. p. 8, is very particular
about this monastery, and gives a list of the pictures above noticed,
on the authority of Sebastianus ab Adelzhausen, the head of the
monastery at that time; namely in 1615. He also adorns his pages with
a copper cut of the martyr about to be precipitated into the river,
from the bank--with his hands tied behind him, without any stone about
his neck. But the painting, as well as the text of the Acta Sanctorum,
describes the precipitation as from a bridge. The form of the
Invocation to the Saint is, "O MARTYR and SAINT, FLORIAN, keep us, we
beseech thee, by night and by day, from all harm by FIRE, or from
other casualties of this life."
[98] "Nostris vero temporibus Reverendissimi Praepositi studio augustum sanc
templum raro marmore affatim emicans, paucisque inuidens assurexit."
This is the language of the _Germania Austriaca, seu Topographia
Omnium Germaniae Provinciarum_, 1701, folio, p. 16: when speaking of
THE MONASTERY of ST. FLORIAN.
[99] See p. 78, ante.
[100] It may be only sufficient to carry it as far back as the twelfth
century. What precedes that period is, as usual, obscure and
unsatisfactory. The monastery was originally of the _Benedictin_
order; but it was changed to the _Augustine_ order by Engelbert.
After this latter, Altman reformed and put it upon a most respectable
footing--in 1080. He was, however, a severe disciplinarian. Perhaps
the crypt mentioned by M. Klein might be of the latter end of the
XIIth century; but no visible portion of the superincumbent building
can be older than the XVIth century.
[101] The history of this monastery is sufficiently fertile in marvellous
events; but my business is to be equally brief and sober in the
account of it. In the _Scriptores Rerum Austriacarum_ of
_Pez_, vol. i. col. 162-309, there is a chronicle of the
monastery, from the year of its foundation to 1564, begun to be
written by an anonymous author in 1132, and continued to the latter
period by other coeval writers--all monks of the monastery. It is
printed by Pez for the first time--and he calls it "an ancient and
genuine chronicle." The word Moelk, or Moelck,--or, as it appears in the
first map in the _Germania Austriaca, seu Topographia Omnium
Germaniae Provinciarum_, 1701, fol. Melck--was formerly written
"Medilicense, Medlicense, Medlicum, Medlich, and Medelick, or
Mellicense." This anonymous chronicle, which concludes at col. 290, is
followed by "a short chtonicle of Conrad de Wizenberg," and "an
anonymous history of the Foundation of the Monastery," compared with
six other MSS. of the same kind in the library at Moelk. The whole is
concluded by "an ancient Necrology of the Monastery," commenced in the
XIIth century, from a vellum MS. of the same date.
In the _Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, we have a list of the
Heads or Primates of Moelk, beginning with Sigiboldus, in 1089, (who
was the first that succeeded Leopold, the founder) down to Valentinus,
in 1638; who was living when the author published his work. There is
also a copper-plate print of a bird's eye view of the monastery, in
its ancient state, previously to the restoration of it, in its
present form, by DIETMAYR.
[102] [The late Duke.]
[103] I do not however find it in the Notitia Literaria prefixed to the
edition of Horace, published by Mitscherlich in 1800: see vol. i. p.
xxvi. where he notices the MSS. of the poet which are deposited in the
libraries of Germany.
[104] It was not till my arrival at Manheim, on my return to Paris, that I
received the "definitive reply" of the worthy Sub-Principal--which was
after the following manner. "Monsieur--La lettre du 21 Septembre, que
vous m'avez faite l'honneur de m'ecrire, je ne l'ai recue que depuis
peu, c'est-a-dire, depuis le retour de mon voyage. Les scrupules que
vous faites touchant l'echange des livres, ont ete leves par vous-meme
dans l'instant que vous en avez faites la proposition. Mais,
malheureusement, la lettre qui devait apporter la confirmation du
Prelat, n'a apportee que la triste nouvelle de sa mort. Vous sentez
bien, que des ce moment il ne sauroit plus etre question de rien. Je
ne doute pas, que quoique aucun livre ancien ne soit jusqu'a ce moment
sorti de la Bibliotheque du Couvent, le Prelat n'eut fait une
exception honorable en egard a l'illustre personnage auquel ces livres
ont ete destines et a la collection unique d'un art, a fait naitre
toutes les bibliotheques, &c. J'ai l'honneur, &c. votre tres humble et
tres obeisant serviteur,"
[Autograph]
[105] In an octavo volume published by a Dr. Cadet, who was a surgeon in
Bonaparte's army in the campaign in Austria, in 1809, and who entitles
his work--_Voyage en Autriche, en Moravie, et en
Baviere_--published at Paris in 1818--we are favoured with a slight
but spirited account of the monastery of Moelk--of the magnificence of
its structure, and of the views seen from thence: but, above all, of
the PRODUCE OF ITS CELLARS. The French Generals were lodged there, in
their route to Vienna; and the Doctor, after telling us of the extent
of the vaults, and that a carriage might be turned with ease in some
of them, adds, "in order to have an idea of the abundance which reigns
there, it may be sufficient only to observe, that, for four successive
days, during the march of our troops through Moelk, towards Vienna,
there were delivered to them not less than from 50 to 60,000 pints of
wine per day--and yet scarcely one half of the stock was exhausted!
The monastery, however, only contains twelve Religieux. The interior
of the church is covered with such a profusion of gilt and rich
ornaments, that when the sun shines full upon it, it is difficult to
view it without being dazzled." Page 79.
The old monastery of Moelk successfully stood a siege of three months,
against the Hungarians, in the year 1619. See _Germ. Austriaca_,
&c. p. 18.
[106] [The Abbe Strattman SURVIVED the above interview only about _five
years_. I hope and trust that the worthy Vice Principal is as well
NOW, as he was about three years ago, when my excellent friend Mr.
Lodge, the Librarian of the University of Cambridge, read to him an
off-hand German version of the whole of this account of my visit to
his Monastery.]
[107] This history has come down to us from well authenticated materials;
however, in the course of its transmission, it may have been partially
coloured with fables and absurdities. The Founder of the Monastery was
ALTMANN, Bishop of Passau; who died in the year 1091, about twenty
years after the foundation of the building. The two ancient
biographies of the Founder, each by a Monk or Principal of the
monastery, are introduced into the collection of Austrian historians
by _Pez_; vol. i. col. 112-162. Stengelius has a bird's eye view
of the monastery as it appeared in 1638, and before the principal
suite of apartments was built. But it is yet in an unfinished state;
as the view of it from the copper-plate engraving, at page 248 ante,
represents it with the _intended_ additions and improvements.
These latter, in all probability, will never be carried into effect.
This monastery enjoyed, of old, great privileges and revenues. It had
twenty-two parish churches--four towns--several villages, &c. subject
to its ecclesiastical jurisdiction; and these parishes, together with
the monastery itself, were not under the visitation of the Diocesan
(of Passau) but of the Pope himself. Stengelius
(_Monasteriologia_, sign. C) speaks of the magnificent views seen
from the summit of the monastery, on a clear day; observing, however,
(even in his time) that it was without springs or wells, and that it
received the rain water in leaden cisterns. "Caeterum (adds he)
am[oen]issimum et plane aspectu jucundissimum habet situm." Towards the
middle of the seventeenth century, this monastery appears to have
taken the noble form under which it is at present beheld. It has not
however escaped from more than _one_ severe visitation by the
Turks.
[108] On my arrival in England, I was of course equally anxious and happy
to place the CHRONICON GOeTWICENSE in the library at Althorp. But I
have not, in the text above, done full justice to the liberality of
the present Abbot of the monastery. He gave me, in addition, a
copy--of perhaps a still scarcer work--entitled "_Notitia Austriae
Antiquae et Mediae seu tam Norici Veteris quam Pagi et Marchae_, &c." by
MAGNUS KLEIN, Abbot of the monastery, and of which the first volume
only was published "typis Monasterii Tegernseensis," in 1781, 4to.
This appears to be a very learned and curious work. And here ... let
me be allowed for the sake of all lovers of autographs of good and
great men--to close this note with a fac-simile of the hand writing
(in the "dono dedit"--as above mentioned) of the amiable and erudite
donor of these acceptable volumes. It is faithfully thus:--the
_original_ scription will only, I trust, perish with the book:
[Autograph]
LETTER X.
IMPERIAL LIBRARY. ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS
AND EARLY PRINTED BOOKS.
VIENNA; _Hotel of the Crown of Hungary, Sept. 9, 1818_.
It gave me the sincerest pleasure, my dear friend, to receive your
letter... only a very few hours after the transmission of my last. At such
a distance from those we love and esteem, you can readily imagine the sort
of _comfort_ which such communications impart. I was indeed rejoiced to
hear of the health and welfare of your family, and of that of our friend *
*, who is indeed not only a thorough-bred _Rorburgher_, but a truly
excellent and amiable man. The account of the last anniversary-meeting of
the Club has, however, been a little painful to me; inasmuch as it proves
that a sort of _heresy_ has crept into the Society--which your
Vice-President, on his return, will labour as effectually as he can to
eradicate.[109]
I had anticipated your wishes. You tell me, "send all you can collect about
the IMPERIAL LIBRARY of Vienna; its MSS. and printed books: its treasures
in the shape of _Fifteeners_ and _Sixteeners_: in short, be copious (say
you) in your description." The present letter will at least convince you
that I have not been sparing in the account solicited; and, in truth, I am
well pleased to postpone a description of the buildings, and usual sights
and diversions of this metropolis, until I shall have passed a few more
days here, and had fuller opportunities of making myself acquainted with
details. Compared with every other architectural interior which I have yet
seen, this LIBRARY is beyond doubt the most magnificent in its structure.
But if my admiration be thus great of the building, and of the _books_, it
is at least equally so of _those_ who have the _management_ of them. You
must know that I arrived here at a very unfortunate moment for
bibliographical research. The holidays of the librarians commence at the
latter end of August, and continue 'till the end of September. I had no
sooner delivered my letter of introduction to the well known Mons. ADAM DE
BARTSCH--an Aulic Counsellor, and chief Director of the Library--than he
stepped backward with a thoughtful and even anxious brow. "What is the
matter, Sir, am I likely to be intrusive?" "My good friend"--replied
he--taking my arm with as pleasant an air of familiarity as if I had been
an old acquaintance--"you have visited us at a most unlucky moment: but let
me turn the matter over in my mind, and you shall have my determination on
the morrow."
That "determination" was as agreeable as it was unexpected; and really on
my part--without the least affectation--unmerited. "I have been talking the
matter over with my brethren and coadjutors in the library-department,
(said M. Bartsch) and we have agreed--considering the great distance and
expense of your journey--to give you an extra week's research among our
books. We will postpone our regular trip to _Baden_,--whither the court,
the noblesse, and our principal citizens at present resort--in order that
you may have an opportunity of perfecting your enquiries. You will of
course make the most of your time." I thanked M. Bartsch heartily and
unfeignedly for his extreme civility and kindness, and told him that he
should not find me either slothful or ungrateful. In person M. Bartsch is
shorter than myself; but very much stouter. He is known in the graphic
world chiefly by his _Le Peintre Graveur_; a very skilful, and indeed an
invaluable production, in sixteen or eighteen octavo volumes--illustrated
with some curious fac-similes. He is himself an artist of no ordinary
ability; and his engravings, especially after some of Rubens's pictures,
are quite admirable. Few men have done so much at his time of life, and
borne the effect of so much strenuous toil, so well as himself. He is yet
gay in spirit, vigorous in intellect, and sound in judgment; and the
simplicity of his character and manners (for in truth we are become quite
intimate) is most winning.[110] Messrs. PAYNE and KOPITAR are the
Librarians who more immediately attend to the examination of the books. The
former is an Abbe--somewhat stricken in years, and of the most pleasing and
simple manners. I saw little of him, as he was anxious for the breezes of
Baden; but I saw enough to regret that he would not meet his brother
librarians at the hotel of the _Crown of Hungary_, where I had prepared the
best fare in my power to entertain them.[111]
M. Kopitar is an invaluable labourer in this bibliographical vineyard. I
had formerly seen him while he was in England; when he came with Mr. Henry
Foss to St. James's Place, to examine the _Aldine volumes_, and especially
those printed upon vellum. He himself reminded me of the chary manner in
which I seemed to allow him to handle those precious tomes. "You would
scarcely permit me (said he smilingly) to hold them half a minute in my
hands: but I will not treat you after the same fashion. You shall handle
_our_ vellum books, whether in ms. or in print, as long and as attentively
as you please." I felt the rebuke as it became a _preu_ chevalier in
bibliography to feel it. "I am indebted to you, M. Kopitar, (said I, in
reply) in more senses than _one_--- on this my visit to your Imperial
Library." "But (observed he quickly) you only did what you _ought_ to have
done." All power of rejoinder was here taken away. M. Kopitar is a
thoroughly good scholar, and is conversant in the Polish, German,
Hungarian, and Italian languages. He is now expressly employed upon the
_Manuscripts_; but he told me (almost with a sigh!) that he had become so
fond of the _Fifteeners_, that he reluctantly complied with the commands of
his superiors in entering on the ms. department.
Before I lay my _Catalogue Raisonne_ of such books as I have examined,
before you, it is right and fitting that I make some mention of the
REPOSITORY in which these books are placed. In regard to the dimensions of
the library, and the general leading facts connected with the erection of
the building, as well as the number of the books, my authority is perhaps
the best that can be adduced: namely, that of Mons. de Bartsch himself.
Know then, my good friend, that the Imperial Library of Vienna is built
over a succession of arched vaults, which are made to contain the carriages
of the Emperor.
You ascend a broad staircase, to the left, which is lined with fragments of
Greek and Roman antiquities. Almost the first room which you enter, is the
Reading Room. This may hold about thirty students comfortably, but I think
I saw more than forty on my first entrance: of whom several, with the
invincible phlegm of their country, were content to stand--leaning against
the wall, with their books in their hands. This room is questionless too
small for the object to which it is applied; and as it is the fashion, in
this part of the world, seldom or never to open the windows, the effect of
such an atmosphere of hydrogen is most revolting to sensitive nerves. When
the door was opened ... which at once gave me the complete length view of
the GRAND LIBRARY ... I was struck with astonishment! Such another sight is
surely no where to be seen.[112] The airiness, the height, the splendour,
the decorative minutiae of the whole--to say nothing of the interminable
rows of volumes of all sizes, and in all colours of morocco binding--put
every thing else out of my recollection. The floor is of red and white
marble, diamond-wise. I walked along it, with M. Bartsch on my right hand
and M. Kopitar on my left, as if fearful to scratch its polished
surface:--first gazing upon the paintings of the vaulted roof, and then
upon the statues and globes, alternately, below--while it seemed as if the
power of expressing the extent of my admiration, had been taken from me. At
length I reached the central compartment of this wonderful room, which is
crowned with a sort of oval and very lofty cupola, covered with a profusion
of fresco paintings. In the centre, below, stands a whole-length statue, in
white marble, of CHARLES VI., under whose truly imperial patronage this
library was built. Around him are sixteen whole length statues of certain
Austrian Marshals, also in white marble; while the books, or rather folios,
(almost wholly bound in red morocco) which line the sides of the whole of
this transept division of the room, were pointed out to me as having
belonged to the celebrated hero, PRINCE EUGENE. Illustrious man!--thought I
to myself--it is a taste like THIS which will perpetuate thy name, and
extol thy virtues, even when the memory of thy prowess in arms shall have
faded away! "See yonder"--observed M. Bartsch--"there are, I know not how
many, atlas folios of that Prince's collection of PRINTS. It is thought to
be unrivalled."
"But where (replied I) is the _statue_ of this heroic collector, to whom
your library is probably indebted for its choicest treasures? Tell me, who
are these marshals that seem to have no business in such a sanctuary of the
Muses--while I look in vain for the illustrious Eugene?" There was more
force in this remark than I could have possibly imagined--for my guide was
silent as to the names of these Austrian marshals, and seemed to admit,
that PRINCE EUGENE... _ought_ to have been there. "But is it _too late_ to
erect his statue? Cannot he displace one of these nameless marshals, who
are in attitude as if practising the third step of the _Minuet de la
Cour_?" "Doucement, doucement, mon ami ... (replied M.B.) il faut
considerer un peu...." "Well, well--be it so: let me now continue my
general observation of the locale of this magical collection." M.B. readily
allowed me; and seemed silently to enjoy the gratification which I felt and
expressed.
I then walked leisurely to the very extremity of the room; continuing to
throw a rapid, but not uninterested glance upon all the accessories of
gilding, carved work, paintings, and statuary, with which the whole seemed
to be in a perfect blaze. I paced the library in various directions; and
found, at every turn or fresh point of view, a new subject of surprise and
admiration. There is a noble gallery, made of walnut tree, ornamented with
gilding and constructed in a manner at once light and substantial, which
runs from one extremity of the interior to the other. It is a master-piece
of art in its way. Upon the whole, there is no furnishing you with any very
correct notion of this really matchless public library. At the further end
of the room, to the left, is a small door; which, upon opening, brings you
into the interior of a moderately sized, plain room, where the
_Fifteeners_ are lodged. The very first view of these ancient tomes
caused a certain palpitation of the heart. But neither this sort of
book-jewel room, nor the large library just described--leading to it--are
visited without the special license of the Curators: a plan, which as it
respects the latter room, is, I submit, exceedingly absurd; for, what makes
a noble book-room look more characteristic and inviting, than its being
_well filled with students_? Besides, on the score of health and
comfort--at least in the summer months--such a plan is almost absolutely
requisite.
The MANUSCRIPTS are contained in a room, to the right, as you enter:
connected with the small room where M. Bartsch, as commander-in-chief,
regularly takes his station--from thence issuing such orders to his
officers as best contribute to the well-being of the establishment. The MS.
room is sufficiently large and commodious, but without any architectural
pretensions. It may be about forty feet long. Here I was first shewn, among
the principal curiosities, a _Senatus consultum de Bacchanalibus
coercendis_: a sort of police ordonnance, on a metal plate--supposed to
have been hung up in some of the public offices at Rome nearly 200 years
before the birth of Christ. It is doubtless a great curiosity, and
invaluable as an historical document--as far as it goes. Here is a _map_,
upon vellum, of the _Itinerary_ of _Theodosius the Great_, of the fourth
century; very curious, as exhibiting a representation of the then known
world, in which the most extraordinary ignorance of the relative position
of countries prevails. I understood that both _Pompeii_ and _Herculaneum_
were marked on this map. One of the most singular curiosities, of the
antiquarian kind, is a long leather roll of _Mexican hieroglyphics_, which
was presented to the Emperor Charles V., by Ferdinand Cortez. There are
copies of these hieroglyphics, taken from a copper plate; but the solution
of them, like most of those from Egypt, will always be perhaps a point of
dispute with the learned.
But the objects more particularly congenial with _my_ pursuits, were, as
you will naturally guess, connected rather with _vellum MSS._ of the
_Scriptures_ and _Classics_: and especially did I make an instant and
earnest enquiry about the famous fragment of the BOOK OF GENESIS, of the
fourth century, of which I had before read so much in Lambecius, and
concerning which my imagination was, strangely enough, wrought up to a most
extraordinary pitch. "Place before me that fragment, good M. Kopitar," said
I eagerly--"and you shall for ever have my best thanks." "_That_, and every
thing else (replied he) is much at your service: fix only your hours of
attendance, and our treasures are ready for your free examination." This
was as it should be. I enter therefore at once, my good friend, upon the
task of giving you a Catalogue Raisonne of those MSS. which it was my good
fortune to examine in the nine or ten days conceded to me for that purpose;
and during which I seemed to receive more than ordinary attention and
kindness from the principal librarians.
FRAGMENT OF THE BOOK OF GENESIS--undoubtedly of the end of the fourth
century, at earliest. This fragment is a collection of twenty-four leaves,
in a folio form, measuring twelve inches by ten, of a small portion of the
Book of Genesis, written in large Greek capital letters of gold and silver,
now much faded, upon a purple ground. Every page of these twenty-four
leaves is embellished with a painting, or illumination, coloured after
nature, purposely executed _below_ the text, so that it is a running
_graphic_ illustration--as we should say--of the subject above.
There is too small a portion of the TEXT to be of much critical importance,
but I believe this Greek text to be the _oldest extant_ of sacred writ: and
therefore I rejoiced on viewing this venerable and precious relic of
scriptural antiquity. Lambecius and Mabillon have given fac-similes of it;
and I think Montfaucon also--in his _Palaeographia Graeca_. At the end of
this fragment, are four pages of the _Gospel of St. Luke_--or, rather,
figures of the four Evangelists; which are also engraved by Lambecius, and,
from him, by Nesselius and Kollarius.[113]
SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA PAPAE GREGORII, an oblong large octavo, or small
folio form. I own I have doubts about calling this volume a contemporaneous
production; that is to say, of the latter end of the sixth century. The
exterior, which, on the score of art, is more precious than the interior,
is doubtless however of a very early period. It consists of an ivory figure
of St. Jerome, guarded by a brass frame. The character of the interior, as
to its scription, does not appear to be older than the tenth century.
GERMAN BIBLE of the EMPEROR WENCESLAUS, in six folio volumes. This too was
another of the particularly curious MSS. which, since the account of it in
my Decameron, I had much desired to see. It is, upon the whole, an imperial
production: but as extraordinary, and even whimsical, as it is magnificent.
Of these six volumes, only three are illuminated; and of the third, only
two third parts are finished. The text is a large lower-case gothic letter,
very nearly a quarter of an inch in height. The ornamental or border
illuminations have more grace and beauty than the subjects represented;
although, to the eye of an antiquarian virtuoso, the representations of the
unfortunate monarch will be the most interesting.
I should notice by the way, on the competent authority of M. Kopitar, that
this German version of the Bible is one of the most ancient extant. These
books have suffered, in the binding, from the trenchant tools of the
artist. The gold in the illuminations is rather bright than refulgent.
I now proceed with an account of some other MSS. appertaining to Scripture;
and hasten to introduce to your notice a magnificent folio volume, entitled
EVANGELISTARIUM, with a lion's head in the centre of the exterior binding,
surrounded by golden rays, and having a lion's head in each corner of the
square. The whole is within an arabesque border. There can be no doubt of
the binding being of the time of Frederick III. of the middle of the
fourteenth century; and it is at once splendid and tasteful. The book
measures nearly fifteen inches by ten. The inside almost surpasses any
thing of the kind I have seen. The vellum is smooth, thin, and white--and
the colours are managed so as to have almost a faery like effect. Each page
is surrounded with a light blue frame, having twisted flowers for corner
ornaments: the whole of a quiet, soft tint, not unlike what appears in the
Bible of Wenceslaus. Every line is written in a tall, broad gothic
letter--and every letter is _gold_. But the illuminations merit every
commendation. They are of various kinds. Some are divided into twelve
compartments: but the initial L, to the first page, _L_[_iber
Generationis_] is the most tasteful, as well as elaborate thing I ever
saw.[114] The figures of angels, on the side, and at bottom, have even the
merit of Greek art. A large illumination of our Saviour, with the Virgin
and Joseph below, closes the volume: which really can hardly be
sufficiently admired. The date of the text is 1368.
I shall now give you an account of a few MISSALS of a higher order on the
score of art. And first, let me begin with a beautiful FLEMISH MISSAL, in
8vo.: in the most perfect state of preservation--and with the costliest
embellishments--as well as with a good number of drollerries _dotted_ about
the margins. The frame work, to the larger subjects, is composed of gothic
architecture. I am not sure that I have seen any thing which equals the
_drolleries_--for their variety, finish, and exquisite condition. The
vellum is not to be surpassed. What gives this book an additional value is,
that it was once the property of Charles V.: for, on the reverse of fol.
157, at bottom, is the following memorandum in his hand writing: _Afin que
Ie Ioye de vous recommande accepte bonne Dame cest mis sy en escript vostre
vray bon mestre._ CHARLES. A lovely bird, in the margin, is the last
illumination. In the whole, there are 179 leaves.
The next article is a LARGE MISSAL, in letters of gold and silver, upon
black paper: a very extraordinary book--and, to me, unique. The first
illumination shews the arms of Milan and Austria, quarterly, surrounded by
an elaborate gold border. The text is in letters of silver--tall stout
gothic letters--with the initial letters of gold. Some of the subjects are
surrounded by gold borders, delightfully and gracefully disposed in circles
and flowers. At the bottom of the page, which faces the descent of the Holy
Ghost, is a fool upon horseback--very singular--and very spiritedly
touched. The binding is of red velvet, with a representation of the cloven
tongues at the day of Pentecost in silver-gilt.
A third MISSAL, of the same beautiful character, is of an octavo form. The
two first illuminations are not to be exceeded, of their kind. The borders,
throughout, are arabesque, relieved by _cameo gris_,--with heads,
historical subjects, and every thing to enchant the eye and warm the heart
of a tasteful antiquary. The writing is a black, large, gothic letter, not
unlike the larger gothic font used by Ratdolt. The vellum is beautiful. The
binding is in the Grolier style.
The last and not the least, in the estimation of a competent judge of
MSS.,--is, a German version of the HORTULUS ANIMAE of S. Brant. The volume
in question is undoubtedly among the loveliest books in the Imperial
Library. The character, or style of art, is not uncommon; but such a series
of sweetly drawn, and highly finished subjects, is hardly any where to be
seen--and certainly no where to be eclipsed. I should say the art was
rather Parisian than Flemish. The first in the series, is the following;
executed for me by M. Fendi. It occurs where the illuminations usually
commence, at the foot of the first page of the first Psalm. Observe, I
beseech you, how tranquilly the boat glides along, and how comfortable the
party appears. It is a hot day, and they have cut down some branches from
the trees to fasten in the sides of the boat--in order to screen them from
the heat of the sun. The flagon of wine is half merged in the cooling
stream--so that, when they drink, their thirst will be more effectually
quenched. There are viands, in the basket, beside the rower; and the
mingled sounds of the flageolets and guitar seem to steal upon your ear as
you gaze at the happy party--and, perhaps, long to be one of them!
[Illustration]
A hundred similar sweet things catch the eye as one turns over the spotless
leaves of this snow-white book. But the very impressive scene of Christ
asleep, watched by angels--(with certain musical instruments in their
hands, of which M. Kopitar could not tell me the names,) together with
another illumination of Mary, and Joseph in the distance, can hardly be
described with justice. The Apostles and Saints are large half lengths. St.
Anthony, with the devil in the shape of a black pig beneath his garment, is
cleverly managed; but the head is too large. Among the female figures, what
think you of MARY MAGDALENE--as here represented? And where will you find
female penance put to a severer trial? I apprehend the box, in front of
her, to be a _pix_, containing the consecrated elements.
[Illustration]
I now proceed to give you some account of MSS. of a different character:
_classical_, _historical_, and appertaining to _Romance_--which seemed to
me to have more particular claims upon the attention of the curious. The
famous Greek DIOSCORIDES shall lead the way. This celebrated MS. is a
large, thick, imperial quarto; measuring nearly fifteen inches by twelve.
The vellum is thin, and of a silky and beautiful texture. The colours in
the earlier illuminations are thickly coated and glazed, but very much
rubbed; and the faces are sometimes hardly distinguishable. The supposed
portrait of Dioscorides (engraved--as well as a dozen other of these
illuminations--in Lambecius, &c.) is the most perfect.
The plants are on one side of the leaf, the text is on the other. The
former are, upon the whole, delicately and naturally coloured. At the end,
there is an ornithological treatise, which is very curious for the
colouring of the birds. This latter treatise is written in a smaller Greek
capital letter than the first; but M. Kopitar supposes it to be as ancient.
We know from an indisputably coeval date, that this precious MS. was
executed by order of the Empress Juliana Anicia in the year of Christ 505.
There is a smaller MS. of Dioscorides, of a more recent date, in which the
plants are coloured, and executed--one, two, or three, in number--upon the
rectos of the leaves, with the text below, in two columns. Both the
illuminations and the text are of inferior execution to those of the
preceding MS. Montfaucon, who never saw the larger, makes much of the
smaller MS.; which scarcely deserves comparison with it.
PHILOSTRATUS; Lat. This is the MS. which belonged to Matthias Corvinus--and
of which the illuminations are so beautiful, that Nesselius has thought it
worth while to give a fac-simile of the first--from whence I gave a portion
to the public in the Bibliog. Decameron.[115] I think that I may safely
affirm, that the two illuminations, which face each other at the beginning,
are the finest, in every respect, which I have seen of that period; but
they have been sadly damaged. The two or three other illuminations, by
different hands, are much inferior. The vellum and writing are equally
charming.
VALERIUS MAXIMUS. This copy has the name of _Sambucus_ at the bottom of the
first illumination, and was doubtless formerly in the collection of
Matthias Corvinus--the principal remains of whose magnificent library
(although fewer than I had anticipated) are preserved in this collection.
The illumination in the MS. just mentioned, is very elegant and pleasing;
but the colours are rather too dark and heavy. The intended portrait of the
Roman historian, with the arms and supporters below, are in excellent good
taste. The initial letters and the vellum are quite delightful. The
scription is very good.
LIVIUS: in six folio volumes. We have here a beautiful and magnificent MS.
in a fine state of preservation. There is only one illumination in each
volume; but that "one" is perhaps the most perfect specimen which can be
seen of that open, undulating, arabesque kind of border, which is rather
common in print as well as in MS., towards the end of the fifteenth
century. These six illuminations, for invention, delicacy, and brilliancy
of finish, are infinitely beyond any thing of the kind which I have seen.
The vellum is perfectly beautiful. To state which of these illuminations is
the most attractive, would be a difficult task; but if you were at my
elbow, I should direct your particular attention to that at the beginning
of the IXth book of the IVth Decad--especially to the opposite ornament;
where two green fishes unite round a circle of gold, with the title, in
golden capitals, in the centre. O Matthias Corvinus, thou wert surely the
EMPEROR of Book Collectors!
BOOK OF BLAZONRY, or of ARMS. This is an enormous folio MS. full of
heraldic embellishments relating to the HOUSE of Austria. Among these
embellishments, the author of the text--who lived in the XVIth century, and
who was a very careful compiler--has preserved a genuine, original portrait
of LEOPOLD de SEMPACH, of the date of 1386. It is very rarely that you
observe portraits of this character, or form, introduced into MSS. of so
early a period. A nobler heraldic volume probably does not exist. It is
bound in wood, covered with red velvet; and the edges are gilt, over
coloured armorial ornaments.
From _such_ a volume, the step is both natural and easy to ROMANCES. Sir
TRISTAN shall lead the way. Here are _three_ MSS. of the feats of that
Knight of the Round Table. The first is of the XIIIth century; written in
three columns, on a small thick gothic letter. It has some small, and
perfect illuminations. This MS. became the property of Prince Eugene. It
was taken to Paris, but restored: and has yet the French imperial eagle
stamped in red ink. It is indeed a "gloriously ponderous folio."
A second MS. of the SAME ROMANCE is written in two columns, in a full short
gothic letter. It is very large, and the vellum is very perfect. The
illuminations, which are larger than those in the preceding MS. are
evidently of the early part of the xvth century. This book also belonged to
Prince Eugene. It is doubtless a precious volume. A third MS. executed in
pale ink, in a kind of secretary gothic letter, is probably of the latter
end of the XIVth century. The illuminations are only slightly tinted.
BRUT D'ANGLETTERRE. I should apprehend this MS. to be of the early part of
the XIVth century. It is executed in a secretary gothic letter, in double
columns, and the ink is much faded in colour. It has but one illumination,
which is at the beginning, and much faded. This was also Prince Eugene's
copy; and was taken to Paris, but restored.
The last, but perhaps the most valuable in general estimation, of the MSS.
examined by me, was the AUTOGRAPH of the GERUSALEMME LIBERATA, or, as
formerly called, CONQUISTATA,[116] of Tasso: upon which no accomplished
Italian can look but with feelings almost approaching to rapture. The MS.
is imperfect; beginning with the xxxth canto of the second book, and ending
with the LXth canto of the twenty-third book.
The preceding will probably give you some little satisfaction respecting
the MSS. in this very precious collection. I proceed therefore immediately
to an account of the PRINTED BOOKS; premising that, after the accounts of
nearly similar volumes, described as being in the libraries previously
visited, you must not expect me to expatiate quite so copiously as upon
former occasions. I have divided the whole into four classes; namely, 1.
THEOLOGY; 2. CLASSICS; 3. MISCELLANEOUS, LATIN; (including Lexicography) 4.
ITALIAN; and 5. FRENCH and GERMAN, exclusively of Theology. I have also
taken the pains of arranging each class in alphabetical order; so that you
will consider what follows to be a very sober, and a sort of
bibliopolistic, catalogue.
THEOLOGY.
AUGUSTINUS (Sts.) DE CIV. DEI. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery, 1467_.
Folio. A fine large copy; but not equal to that in the Royal Library at
Paris or in Lord Spencer's collection. I should think, however, that this
may rank as the third copy for size and condition.
---- _Printed by Jenson._
1475. Folio. A very beautiful book, printed upon white and delicate VELLUM.
Many of the leaves have, however, a bad colour. I suspect this copy has
been a good deal cropt in the binding.
AUGUSTINI S. EPISTOLAE. LIBRI XIII. CONFESSIONUM. 1475. Quarto. This volume
is printed in long lines, in a very slender roman type, which I do not just
now happen to remember to have seen before; and which _almost_ resembles
the delicacy of the types of the first _Horace_, and the _Florus_ and
_Lucan_--so often noticed: except that the letters are a little too round
in form. The present is a clean, sound copy; unbound.
BIBLIA LATINA. This is the _Mazarine_ Edition; supposed to be the first
Bible ever printed. The present is far from being a fine copy; but
valuable, from possessing the four leaves of a Rubric which I was taught to
believe were peculiar to the copy at Munich.[117]
BIBLIA LATINA; _Printed by Pfister_, folio, 3 volumes. I was told that the
copy here was upon vellum; but inaccurately. The present was supplied by
the late Mr. Edwards; but is not free from stain and writing. Yet, although
nothing comparable with the copy in the Royal Library at Paris, or with
that in St. James's Place, it is nevertheless a very desirable
acquisition--and is quite perfect.
---- _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher._ 1462.
Folio. 2 vols. UPON VELLUM. This was Colbert's copy, and is large, sound,
and desirable.
---- _Printed by Mentelin._ Without Date. Perhaps the rarest of all Latin
Bibles; of which, however, there is a copy in the royal library at Paris,
and in the public libraries of Strasbourg and Munich. I should conjecture
its date to be somewhere about 1466.[118] The present is a clean and sound,
but much cropt copy.
---- _Printed by Sweynhyem and Pannartz._ Folio. 1471-2, 2 vols. A
remarkably fine large copy, almost uncut: in modern russia binding. This
must form a portion of the impression by the same printers, with the
Commentary of De Lyra, in five folio volumes.
BIBLIA LATINA; _Printed by Hailbrun_. 1476. Folio. Here are _two_ copies;
of which one is UPON VELLUM, and the other upon paper: both beautiful--but
the vellum copy is, I think, in every respect, as lovely a book as Lord
Spencer's similar copy. It measures eleven inches one sixteenth by seven
one eighth. It has, however, been bound in wretched taste, some fifty years
ago, and is a good deal cropt in the binding. The paper copy, in 2 vols. is
considerably larger.
BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by Jenson_. 1479. Folio. Here, again, are two
copies; one upon paper, the other UPON VELLUM. Of these, the vellum copy is
much damaged in the principal illumination, and is also cropt in the
binding. The paper copy can hardly be surpassed, if equalled.
BIBLIA ITALICA. MALHERBI. _Printed in the month of October,_ 1471. Folio. 2
vols. Perhaps one of the finest and largest copies in existence; measuring,
sixteen inches five eighths by eleven. It is bound (if I remember rightly)
in blue morocco.
BIBLIA HEBRAICA. _Printed at Soncino_. 1488. Folio. FIRST EDITION OF THE
HEBREW BIBLE. Of all earliest impressions of the sacred text, this is
doubtless the MOST RARE. I am not sure that there are _two_ copies of it in
England or in France. In our own country, the Bodleian library alone
possesses it. This is a beautiful, clean copy, but cropt a little too much
in the binding. It has had a journey to _Paris_, and gained a coat of blue
morocco by the trip. The binder was Bozerain. This was the first time that
I had seen a copy of the FIRST HEBREW BIBLE. There was only one _other_
feeling to be gratified:--that _such_ a copy were safely lodged in St.
James's Place.
BIBLIA POLONICA. 1563. Folio. The Abbe Strattman, at Moelk, had apprised me
of the beauty and value of this copy--of one of the scarcest impressions of
the sacred text. This copy was, in fact, a PRESENTATION COPY to the Emperor
Maximilian II., from Prince Radzivil the Editor and Patron of the work. It
is rather beautifully white, for the book--which is usually of a very
sombre complexion. The leaves are rather tender. It is bound in red velvet;
but it is a pity they do not keep it in a case--as the back is wearing away
fast. Notwithstanding the Abbe Strattman concluded his account of this book
with the exclamation of--"Il n'y en a pas comme celui-la," I must be
allowed to say, that Lord Spencer may yet indulge in a strain of triumph...
on the possession of the copy, of this same work, which I secured for him
at Augsbourg;[119] and which is, to the full, as large, as sound, and in
every respect as genuine a book.
JERONIMI STI. EPISTOLAE. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz._ 1468. Folio. 2
vols. A magnificent and unique copy, UPON VELLUM. "There are ONLY SIX
VELLUM Sweynheyms and Pannartz in the world,"--said the Abbe Strattman to
me, in the library of the Monastery of Moelk. "Which be they?" replied I.
"They are these"--answered he ... "the _Caesar_, _Aulus Gellius_, and
_Apuleius_--ach the edit. prin.--of the date of 1469: and the _Epistles of
St Jerom_, of 1468--all which four books you will see at Vienna:--the
_Livy_, which Mr. Edwards bought; and the _Pliny_ of 1470, which is in the
library of Lord Spencer. These are the only known vellum Sweynheyms and
Pannartz." I looked at the volumes under consideration, therefore, with the
greater attention. They are doubtless noble productions; and this copy is,
upon the whole, fine and genuine. It is not, however, so richly ornamented,
nor is the vellum quite so white, as Lord Spencer's Pliny above mentioned.
Yet it is bound in quiet old brown calf, having formerly belonged to
Cardinal Bessarion, whose hand writing is on the fly leaf. It measures
fifteen inches three eighths, by eleven one sixteenth.
LACTANTII OPERA. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery._ 1465. Folio. Here are
two copies of this earliest production of the Italian press. That which is
in blue morocco binding, is infinitely the worse of the two. The other, in
the original binding of wood, is, with the exception of Mr. Grenville's
copy, the finest which I have ever seen. This however is slightly stained,
by water, at top.
---- _Printed at Rostock._ 1476. Folio. A copy UPON VELLUM--which I had
never seen before. The vellum is thin and beautiful, but this is not a
_comfortable_ book in respect to binding. A few leaves at the beginning are
stained. Upon the whole, however, it is a singularly rare and most
desirable volume.[120]
MISSALE MOZARABICUM. 1500. Folio. First Edition. A book of exceedingly
great scarcity, and of which I have before endeavoured to give a pretty
full and correct history.[121] The present is a beautiful clean copy, bound
in blue morocco, apparently by De Seuil--from the red morocco lining
within: but this copy is not so large as the one in St. James's Place. The
MOZARABIC BREVIARY, its companion, which is bound in red morocco, has been
cruelly cropt.
MISSALE HERBIPOLENSE. Folio: with the date of 1479 in the prefatory
admonition. This precious book is UPON VELLUM; and a more beautiful and
desirable volume can hardly be found. There is a copper-plate of
coat-armour, in outline, beneath the prefatory admonition; and M. Bartsch,
who was by the side of me when I was examining the book, referred me to his
_Peintre Graveur_, vol. x. p. 57. where this early copper-plate is noticed.
PSALTERIUM. Latine. _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher._ 1457. Folio. EDITIO
PRINCEPS. If there be ONE book, more than another, which should induce an
ardent bibliographer to make a pilgrimage to Vienna, THIS is assuredly the
volume in question! And yet, although I could not refrain from doing, what
a score of admiring votaries had probably done before me--namely, bestowing
a sort of _oscular_ benediction upon the first leaf of the text--yet, I
say, it may be questionable whether this copy be as large and fair as that
in our Royal Collection!? Doubtless, however, this is a very fine and
almost invaluable copy of the FIRST BOOK printed with metal types, with a
date subjoined. You will give me credit for having asked for a sight of it,
the _very first thing_ on my entrance into the room where it is kept. It
is, however, preserved in rather a loose and shabby binding, and should
certainly be protected by every effort of the bibliopegistic art. The truth
is, as M. Kopitar told me, that every body--old and young, ignorant and
learned--asks for a sight of this marvellous volume; and it is, in
consequence, rarely kept in a state of quiescence one week throughout the
year: excepting during the holidays.
PSALTERIUM. Latine. _Without Printer's name or Date._ _Folio._ This is
doubtless a magnificent book, printed in the gothic letter, in red and
black, with musical lines not filled up by notes. The text has services for
certain Saints days. What rendered this volume particularly interesting to
my eyes, was, that on the reverse of the first leaf, beneath two lines of
printed text, (in the smaller of two sizes of gothic letter) and two lines
of scored music in red, I observed an impression of the very same
copper-plate of coat-armour, which I had noticed in the Wurtzburg Missal of
1482, at Oxford, described in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p.
30. Although M. Bartsch had noticed this copper-plate, in its outline
character, in the above previously described Wurtzburg Missal, he seemed to
be ignorant of its existence in this Psalter. The whole of this book is as
fresh as if it had just come from the press.
TESTAMENTUM NOV. Bohemice. _Without Date._ Folio. This is probably one of
the very rarest impressions of the sacred text, in the XVth century, which
is known to exist. It is printed in the gothic type, in double columns, and
a full page contains thirty-six lines. There are running titles. The text,
at first glance, has much of the appearance of Baemler's printing at
Augsbourg; but it is smaller, and more angular. Why should not the book
have been printed in Bohemia? This is a very clean, desirable copy, in red
morocco binding.
TURRECREMATA I. DE. In LIBRUM PSALMORUM. _Printed at Crause in Suabia._
Folio. This, and the copy described as being in the Public Library at
Munich, are supposed to be the only known copies of this impression. Below
the colophon, in pencil, there is a date of 1475: but quaere upon what
authority? This copy is in most miserable condition; especially at the end.
ANCIENT CLASSICAL AUTHORS.
AESOPUS. Gr. Quarto. EDITIO PRINCEPS. A sound and perfect copy: ruled.
---- _Ital._ 1491. Quarto. In Italian poetry, by Manfred de Monteferrato.
---- 1492. Quarto. In Italian prose, by the same. Of these two versions,
the Italian appears to be the same as that of the Verona impression of
1479: the cuts are precisely similar. The present is a very sound copy, but
evidently cropt.
APULEIUS. 1469. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz._ Folio. Editio
Princeps. This copy is UPON VELLUM. It is tall and large, but not so fine
as is the following article:
---- _Printed by Jenson._ 1472. Folio. A fine sound copy; in red morocco
binding. Formerly belonging to Prince Eugene.
AULUS GELLIUS. 1469. Folio. Edit. Prin. This is without doubt one of the
very finest VELLUM copies of an old and valuable Classic in existence.
There are sometimes (as is always the case in the books from the earlier
Roman press) brown and yellow pages; but, upon the whole, this is a
wonderful and inestimable book. It is certainly unique, as being printed
upon vellum. Note well: the _Jerom, Apuleius_, and _Aulus Gellius_--with
one or two others, presently to be described--were Cardinal Bessarion's OWN
COPIES; and were taken from the library of St. Mark at Venice, by the
Austrians, in their memorable campaign in Italy. I own that there are
hardly any volumes in the Imperial Library at Vienna which interested me so
much as these VELLUM SWEYNHEYMS and PANNARTZ!
AUSONIUS. 1472. Folio. Editio Princeps. The extreme rarity of this book is
well known. The present copy is severely cropt at top and bottom, but has a
good side marginal breadth. It has also been washed; but you are only
conscious of it by the scent of soap.
CAESAR. 1469. _Printed by S. and Pannartz._ Folio. Edit. Princeps. A
beautiful and unique copy--UPON VELLUM. This was formerly Prince Eugene's
copy; and I suspect it to be the same which is described in the _Bibl.
Hulziana_, vol. i. no. 3072--as it should seem to be quite settled that the
printers, Sweynheym and Pannartz, printed only _one_ copy of their
respective first editions upon vellum. It is however but too manifest that
this precious volume has been cropt in binding--which is in red morocco.
---- 1472. _Printed by the same._ Folio. This also was Prince Eugene's
copy; and is much larger and finer than the preceding--on the score of
condition.
CICERO DE OFFICIIS. 1465, Quarto. Here are _two_ copies: each UPON VELLUM.
One, in blue morocco, is short and small; but in very pretty condition. The
other is stained and written upon. It should be cast out.
---- 1466. Quarto. UPON VELLUM. A beautiful copy, which measures very
nearly ten inches in height.[122] In all these copies, the title of the
"Paradoxes" is printed.
CICERONIS. EPIST. FAM. 1467. Folio. Editio Princeps. Cardinal Bessarion's
own copy, and unquestionably THE FINEST THAT EXISTS. The leaves are white
and thick, and crackle aloud as you turn them over. It is upon paper, which
makes me think that there never was a copy upon vellum; for the Cardinal,
who was a great patron of Sweynheym and Pannartz, the printers, would
doubtless have possessed it in that condition. At the beginning, however,
it is slightly stained, and at the end slightly wormed. Yet is this copy,
in its primitive binding, finer than any which can well be imagined. The
curious are aware that this is supposed to have been the _first book
printed at Rome_; and that the blanks, left for the introduction of Greek
characters, prove that the printers were not in possession of the latter
when this book was published. The Cardinal has written two lines, partly in
Greek and partly in Latin, on the fly leaf. This copy measures eleven
inches three eighths by seven inches seven eighths.
CICERO. RHETORICA VETUS. Printed by Jenson. When I had anticipated the
beauty of a VELLUM COPY of this book (in the _Bibl. Spencer._ vol. i. p.
349--here close at hand) I had not of course formed the idea of seeing such
a one HERE. This vellum copy is doubtless a lovely book; but the vellum is
discoloured in many places, and I suspect the copy has been cut down a
little.
---- ORATIONES. _Printed by S. and Pannartz._ 1471. Folio. A beautifully
white and genuine copy; but the first few leaves are rather soiled, and it
is slightly wormed towards the end. A _fairer_ Sweynheym and Pannartz is
rarely seen.
---- OPERA OMNIA. 1498. Folio. 4 vols. A truly beautiful copy, bound in
red morocco; but it is not free from occasional ms. annotations, in red
ink, in the margins. It measures sixteen inches and three quarters in
height, by ten inches and three quarters in width. A fine and perfect copy
of this _First Edition of the Entire Works_ of Cicero, is obtained with
great difficulty. A nobler monument of typographical splendour the early
annals of the press cannot boast of.
HOMERI OPERA OMNIA. Gr. 1488. Folio. Editio Princeps. A sound, clean copy,
formerly Prince Eugene's; but not comparable with many copies which I have
seen.
BATRACHOMYOMACHIA. Gr. Without date or place. Quarto. Edit. Prin: executed
in red and black lines, alternately. This is a sound, clean, and beautiful
copy; perhaps a little cropt. In modern russia binding.
JUVENALIS. Folio. _Printed by Ulric Han_, in his larger type. A cruelly
cropt copy, with a suspiciously ornamented title page. This once belonged
to Count Delci.
JUVENALIS. _Printed by I. de Fivizano _. _Without date_. Folio. This is a
very rare edition, and has been but recently acquired. It contains
twenty-seven lines in a full page. There are neither numerals, signatures,
nor catchwords. On the sixty-ninth and last leaf, is the colophon. A sound
and desirable copy; though not free from soil.
LUCIANI OPUSCULA QUAEDAM. Lat. _Printed by S. Bevilaquensis._ 1494. Quarto.
This is really one of the most covetable little volumes in the world. It is
a copy printed UPON VELLUM; with most beautiful illuminations, in the
purest Italian taste. Look--if ever you visit the Imperial Library--at the
last illumination, at the bottom of _o v_, recto. It is indescribably
elegant. But the binder should have been hung in chains. He has cut the
book to the very quick--so as almost to have entirely sliced away several
of the border decorations.
OVIDII FASTI. _Printed by Azoguidi._ 1471. Folio. This is the whole of what
they possess of this wonderfully rare EDIT. PRIN. of Ovid, printed at
Bologna by the above printer:--and of this small portion the first leaf is
wanting.
----, OPERA OMNIA, _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1471. Folio. 2
vols. This is a clean, large copy; supplied from two old libraries. The
volumes are equally large, but the first is in the finer condition.
----, EPISTOLAE et FASTI. I know nothing of the printer of this edition,
nor can I safely guess where it was printed. The Epistles begin on the
recto of _aa ii_ to _gg v_; the Fasti on A i to VV ix, including some few
other opuscula; of which my memorandum is misplaced. At the end, we read
the word FINIS.
PLINIUS SENIOR. _Printed by I. de Spira_. 1469. Folio. Editio Princeps. We
have here the identical copy--printed UPON VELLUM--of which I remember to
have heard it said, that the Abbe Strattman, when he was at the head of
this library, declared, that whenever the French should approach Vienna, he
would march off with _this_ book under _one_ arm, and with the FIRST
Psalter under the other! This was heroically said; but whether such
declaration was ever _acted_ upon, is a point upon which the
bibliographical annals of that period are profoundly silent. To revert to
this membranaceous treasure. It is in one volume, beautifully white and
clean; but ("horresco referens;") it has been cruelly deprived of its
legitimate dimensions. In other words, it is a palpably cropt copy. The
very first glance of the illumination at the first page confirms this. In
other respects, also, it can bear no comparison with the VELLUM copy in the
Royal Library at Paris.[123] Yet is it a book ... for which I know more
than _one_ Roxburgher who would promptly put pen to paper and draw a check
for 300 guineas--to become its possessor.
PLINIUS SENIOR. _Printed by Jenson._ 1472. Folio. Another early Pliny--UPON
VELLUM: very fine, undoubtedly; but somewhat cropt, as the encroachment
upon the arms, at the bottom of the first illuminated page, evidently
proves. The initial letters are coloured in that sober style of decoration,
which we frequently observe in the illuminated volumes of Sweynheym and
Pannartz; but they generally appear to have received some injury. Upon the
whole, I doubt if this copy be so fine as the similar copies, upon vellum,
in the libraries of the Duke of Devonshire and the late Sir M. M. Sykes.
This book is bound in the highly ornamented style of French binding of the
XVIIth century; and it measures almost sixteen inches one eighth, by ten
inches five eighths.
PLINIUS. Italice. _Printed by Jenson._ 1476. Folio. A fine, large, pure,
crackling copy; in yellow morocco binding. It was Prince Eugene's copy; but
is yet inferior, in magnitude, to the copy at Paris.[124]
SILIUS ITALICUS. _Printed by Laver._ 1471. Folio. The largest, soundest,
and cleanest copy of this very rare impression, which I remember to have
seen:--with the exception, perhaps, of that in the Bodleian Library.
SUETONIUS. _Printed by S. and Pannartz._ 1470. Folio. Second Edition. A
fine, sound copy, yet somewhat cropt. The first page of the text has the
usual border printed ornament of the time of printing the book. This was
Prince Eugene's copy.
SUIDAS, Gr. 1499. Folio. 2 vols. This editio princeps of Suidas is always,
when in tolerable condition, a wonderfully striking book: a masterpiece of
solid, laborious, and beautiful Greek printing. But the copy under
consideration--which is in its pristine boards, covered with black
leather--was LAMBECIUS'S OWN COPY, and has his autograph. It is, moreover,
one of the largest, fairest, and most genuine copies ever opened.
TACITUS. _Printed by I. de Spira._ Folio. Edit. Prin. This is the whitest
and soundest copy, of this not very uncommon book, which I have seen. It
has however lost something of its proper dimensions by the cropping of the
binder.
TERENTIUS. _Printed by Mentelin, without date._ Folio. Editio Princeps. Of
exceedingly great rarity. The present copy, which is in boards--but which
richly deserves a russia or morocco binding--is a very good, sound, and
desirable copy.
VALERIUS MAXIMUS. _Printed by Schoeffher._ 1472. Fol. UPON VELLUM; a
charming, sound copy. This book is not very uncommon upon vellum.
VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Mentelin._ _Without date._ Folio. Perhaps the rarest
of all the early Mentelin classics; and probably the second edition of the
author. The present is a beautiful, white, sound copy, and yet probably
somewhat cropt. It is in red morocco binding. Next to the very
extraordinary copy of this edition, in the possession of Mr. George
Hibbert, I should say that _this_ was the finest I had ever seen.
---- _Printed by V. de Spira._ 1470. Folio. It |
