|
THE JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE HEBRIDES
WITH SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D.
by
James Boswell
DEDICATION TO EDMOND MALONE, ESQ.
My Dear Sir,
In every narrative, whether historical or biographical, authenticity
is of the utmost consequence. Of this I have ever been so firmly
persuaded, that I inscribed a former work to that person who was the
best judge of its truth. I need not tell you I mean General Paoli;
who, after his great, though unsuccessful, efforts to preserve the
liberties of his country, has found an honourable asylum in Britain,
where he has now lived many years the object of Royal regard and
private respect; and whom I cannot name without expressing my very
grateful sense of the uniform kindness which he has been pleased to
shew me.
The friends of Doctor Johnson can best judge, from internal evidence,
whether the numerous conversations which form the most valuable part
of the ensuing pages, are correctly related. To them, therefore I wish
to appeal, for the accuracy of the portrait here exhibited to the
world.
As one of those who were intimately acquainted with him, you have a
tide to this address. You have obligingly taken the trouble to peruse
the original manuscript of this tour, and can vouch for the strict
fidelity of the present publication. Your literary alliance with our
much lamented friend, in consequence of having undertaken to render
one of his labours more complete, by your edition of Shakespeare, a
work which I am confident will not disappoint the expectations of the
publick, gives you another claim. But I have a still more powerful
inducement to prefix your name to this volume, as it gives me an
opportunity of letting the world know that I enjoy the honour and
happiness of your friendship; and of thus publickly testifying the
sincere regard with which I am.
My dear Sir,
Your very faithful and obedient servant,
James Boswell.
London, 20 September 1785.
"He was of an admirable pregnancy of wit, and that pregnancy much
improved by continual study from his childhood; by which he had gotten
such a promptness in expressing his mind, that his extemporal speeches
were little inferior to his premeditated writings. Many, no doubt, had
read as much and perhaps more than he; but scarce ever any concocted
his reading into judgement as he did."--Baker's Chronicle
Dr Johnson had for many years given me hopes that we should go
together, and visit the Hebrides. Martin's Account of those islands
had impressed us with a notion that we might there contemplate a
system of life almost totally different from what we had been
accustomed to see; and, to find simplicity and wildness, and all the
circumstances of remote time or place, so near to our native great
island, was an object within the reach of reasonable curiosity. Dr
Johnson has said in his Journey, 'that he scarcely remembered how the
wish to visit the Hebrides was excited'; but he told me, in summer,
1763, that his father put Martin's Account into his hands when he was
very young, and that he was much pleased with it. We reckoned there
would be some inconveniencies and hardships, and perhaps a little
danger; but these we were persuaded were magnified in the imagination
of every body. When I was at Ferney, in 1764, I mentioned our design
to Voltaire. He looked at me, as if I had talked of going to the North
Pole, and said, 'You do not insist on my accompanying you?' 'No, sir.'
'Then I am very willing you should go.' I was not afraid that our
curious expedition would be prevented by such apprehensions; but I
doubted that it would not be possible to prevail on Dr Johnson to
relinquish, for some time, the felicity of a London life, which, to a
man who can enjoy it with full intellectual relish, is apt to make
existence in any narrower sphere seem insipid or irksome. I doubted
that he would not be willing to come down from his elevated state of
philosophical dignity; from a superiority of wisdom among the wise,
and of learning among the learned; and from flashing his wit upon
minds bright enough to reflect it.
He had disappointed my expectations so long, that I began to despair;
but in spring, 1773, he talked of coming to Scotland that year with so
much firmness, that I hoped he was at last in earnest. I knew that, if
he were once launched from the metropolis, he would go forward very
well; and I got our common friends there to assist in setting him
afloat. To Mrs Thrale in particular, whose enchantment over him seldom
failed, I was much obliged. It was, 'I'll give thee a wind.' 'Thou art
kind.' To attract him, we had invitations from the chiefs Macdonald
and Macleod; and, for additional aid, I wrote to Lord Elibank, Dr
William Robertson, and Dr Beattie.
To Dr Robertson, so far as my letter concerned the present subject, I
wrote as follows:
Our friend, Mr Samuel Johnson, is in great health and spirits; and, I
do think, has a serious resolution to visit Scotland this year. The
more attraction, however, the better; and therefore, though I know he
will be happy to meet you there, it will forward the scheme, if, in
your answer to this, you express yourself concerning it with that
power of which you are so happily possessed, and which may be so
directed as to operate strongly upon him.
His answer to that part of my letter was quite as I could have wished.
It was written with the address and persuasion of the historian of
America.
When I saw you last, you gave us some hopes that you might prevail
with Mr Johnson to make that excursion to Scotland, with the
expectation of which we have long flattered ourselves. If he could
order matters so, as to pass some time in Edinburgh, about the close
of the summer session, and then visit some of the Highland scenes, I
am confident he would be pleased with the grand features of nature in
many parts of this country: he will meet with many persons here who
respect him, and some whom I am persuaded he will think not unworthy
of his esteem. I wish he would make the experiment. He sometimes
cracks his jokes upon us; but he will find that we can distinguish
between the stabs of malevolence, and 'the rebukes of the righteous,
which are like excellent oil [footnote: Our friend Edmund Burke, who
by this time had received some pretty severe strokes from Dr Johnson,
on account of the unhappy difference in their politicks, upon my
repeating this passage to him, exclaimed, 'Oil of vitriol!'], and
break not the head'. Offer my best compliments to him, and assure him
that I shall be happy to have the satisfaction of seeing him under my
roof.
To Dr Beattie I wrote,
The chief intention of this letter is to inform you, that I now
seriously believe Mr Samuel Johnson will visit Scotland this year: but
I wish that every power of attraction may be employed to secure our
having so valuable an acquisition, and therefore I hope you will
without delay write to me what I know you think, that I may read it to
the mighty sage, with proper emphasis, before I leave London, which I
must soon. He talks of you with the same warmth that he did last year.
We are to see as much of Scotland as we can, in the months of August
and September. We shall not be long of being at Marischal College
[footnote: This, I find, is a Scotticism. I should have said, 'It will
not be long before we shall be at Marischal College.']. He is
particularly desirous of seeing some of the Western Islands.
Dr Beattie did better: ipse venit. He was, however, so polite as to
wave his privilege of nil mihi rescribus, and wrote from Edinburgh, as
follows:
Your very kind and agreeable favour of the 20th of April overtook me
here yesterday, after having gone to Aberdeen, which place I left
about a week ago. I am to set out this day for London, and hope to
have the honour of paying my respects to Mr Johnson and you, about a
week or ten days hence. I shall then do what I can, to enforce the
topick you mentioned; but at present I cannot enter upon it, as I am
in a very great hurry; for I intend to begin my journey within an hour
or two.
He was as good as his word, and threw some pleasing motives into the
northern scale. But, indeed, Mr Johnson loved all that he heard from
one whom he tells us, in his Lives of the Poets, Gray found 'a poet, a
philosopher, and a good man'.
My Lord Elibank did not answer my letter to his lordship for some
time. The reason will appear, when we come to the Isle of Sky. I shall
then insert my letter, with letters from his lordship, both to myself
and Mr Johnson. I beg it may be understood, that I insert my own
letters, as I relate my own sayings, rather as keys to what is
valuable belonging to others, than for their own sake.
Luckily Mr Justice (now Sir Robert) Chambers, who was about to sail
for the East Indies, was going to take leave of his relations at
Newcastle, and he conducted Dr Johnson to that town. Mr Scott, of
University College, Oxford, (now Dr Scott, of the Commons) accompanied
him from thence to Edinburgh. With such propitious convoys did he
proceed to my native city. But, lest metaphor should make it be
supposed he actually went by sea, I choose to mention that he
travelled in post-chaises, of which the rapid motion was one of his
most favourite amusements.
Dr Samuel Johnson's character, religious, moral, political, and
literary, nay his figure and manner, are, I believe, more generally
known than those of almost any man; yet it may not be superfluous here
to attempt a sketch of him. Let my readers then remember that he was a
sincere and zealous Christian, of high Church of England and
monarchical principles, which he would not tamely suffer to be
questioned; steady and inflexible in maintaining the obligations of
piety and virtue, both from a regard to the order of society, and from
a veneration for the Great Source of all order; correct, nay stern in
his taste; hard to please, and easily offended, impetuous and
irritable in his temper, but of a most humane and benevolent heart;
having a mind stored with a vast and various collection of learning
and knowledge, which he communicated with peculiar perspicuity and
force, in rich and choice expression. He united a most logical head
with a most fertile imagination, which gave him an extraordinary
advantage in arguing; for he could reason close or wide, as he saw
best for the moment. He could, when he chose it, be the greatest
sophist that ever wielded a weapon in the schools of declamation; but
he indulged this only in conversation; for he owned he sometimes
talked for victory; he was too conscientious to make errour permanent
and pernicious, by deliberately writing it. He was conscious of his
superiority. He loved praise when it was brought to him; but was too
proud to seek for it. He was somewhat susceptible of flattery. His
mind was so full of imagery, that he might have been perpetually a
poet. It has been often remarked, that in his poetical pieces, which
it is to be regretted are so few, because so excellent, his style is
easier than in his prose. There is deception in this: it is not
easier, but better suited to the dignity of verse; as one may dance
with grace, whose motions, in ordinary walking--in the common
step--are awkward. He had a constitutional melancholy, the clouds of
which darkened the brightness of his fancy, and gave a gloomy cast to
his whole course of thinking: yet, though grave and awful in his
deportment, when he thought it necessary or proper, he frequently
indulged himself in pleasantry and sportive sallies. He was prone to
superstition, but not to credulity. Though his imagination might
incline him to a belief of the marvellous, and the mysterious, his
vigorous reason examined the evidence with jealousy. He had a loud
voice, and a slow deliberate utterance, which no doubt gave some
additional weight to the sterling metal of his conversation. Lord
Pembroke said once to me at Wilton, with a happy pleasantry, and some
truth, that 'Dr Johnson's sayings would not appear so extraordinary,
were it not for his bow-wow way': but I admit the truth of this only
on some occasions. The Messiah, played upon the Canterbury organ, is
more sublime than when played upon an inferior instrument: but very
slight musick will seem grand, when conveyed to the ear through that
majestick medium. WHILE THEREFORE DOCTOR JOHNSON'S SAYINGS ARE READ,
LET HIS MANNER BE TAKEN ALONG WITH THEM. Let it however be observed,
that the sayings themselves are generally great; that, though he might
be an ordinary composer at times, he was for the most part a Handel.
His person was large, robust, I may say approaching to the gigantick,
and grown unwieldy from corpulency. His countenance was naturally of
the craft of an ancient statue, but somewhat disfigured by the scars
of that evil, which, it was formerly imagined, the royal touch could
cure. He was now in his sixty-fourth year, and was become a little
dull of hearing. His sight had always been somewhat weak; yet, so much
does mind govern, and even supply the deficiency of organs, that his
perceptions were uncommonly quick and accurate. His head, and
sometimes also his body, shook with a kind of motion like the effect
of a palsy: he appeared to be frequently disturbed by cramps, or
convulsive contractions, [Footnote: Such they appeared to me: but
since the first edition, Sir Joshua Reynolds has observed to me, 'that
Dr Johnson's extraordinary gestures were only habits, in which he
indulged himself at certain times. When in company, where he was not
free, or when engaged earnestly in conversation, he never gave way to
such habits, which proves that they were not involuntary', I still
however think, that these gestures were involuntary; for surely had
not that been the case, he would have restrained them in the publick
streets.] of the nature of that distemper called St Vitus's dance. He
wore a full suit of plain brown clothes, with twisted-hair buttons of
the same colour, a large bushy greyish wig, a plain shirt, black
worsted stockings, and silver buckles. Upon this tour, when
journeying, he wore boots, and a very wide brown cloth great coat,
with pockets which might have almost held the two volumes of his folio
dictionary; and he carried in his hand a large English oak stick. Let
me not be censured for mentioning such minute particulars. Every thing
relative to so great a man is worth observing. I remember Dr Adam
Smith, in his rhetorical lectures at Glasgow, told us he was glad to
know that Milton wore latchets in his shoes, instead of buckles. When
I mention the oak stick, it is but letting Hercules have his club;
and, by-and-by, my readers will find this stick will bud, and produce
a good joke.
This imperfect sketch of 'the combination and the form' of that
Wonderful Man, whom I venerated and loved while in this world, and
after whom I gaze with humble hope, now that it has pleased Almighty
God to call him to a better world, will serve to introduce to the
fancy of my readers the capital object of the following journal, in
the course of which I trust they will attain to a considerable degree
of acquaintance with him.
His prejudice against Scotland was announced almost as soon as he
began to appear in the world of letters. In his London, a poem, are
the following nervous lines:
For who would leave, unbrib'd, Hibernia's land
Or change the rocks of Scotland for the Strand
There none are swept by sudden fate away;
But all, whom hunger spares, with age decay.
The truth is, like the ancient Greeks and Romans, he allowed himself
to look upon all nations but his own as barbarians: not only Hibernia,
and Scotland, but Spain, Italy, and France, are attacked in the same
poem. If he was particularly prejudiced against the Scots, it was
because they were more in his way; because he thought their success in
England rather exceeded the due proportion of their real merit; and
because he could not but seenin them that nationality which I believe
no liberal-minded Scotsman will deny. He was indeed, if I may be
allowed the phrase, at bottom much of a John Bull; much of a blunt
'true born Englishman'. There was a stratum of common clay under the
rock of marble. He was voraciously fond of good eating; and he had a
great deal of that quality called humour, which gives an oiliness and
a gloss to every other quality.
I am, I flatter myself, completely a citizen of the world. In my
travels through Holland, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Corsica, France,
I never felt myself from home; and I sincerely love 'every kindred and
tongue and people and nation'. I subscribe to what my late truly
learned and philosophical friend Mr Crosbie said, that the English are
better animals than the Scots; they are nearer the sun; their blood is
richer, and more mellow: but when I humour any of them in an
outrageous contempt of Scotland, I fairly own I treat them as
children. And thus I have, at some moments, found myself obliged to
treat even Dr Johnson.
To Scotland however he ventured; and he returned from it in great
humour, with his prejudices much lessened, and with very grateful
feelings of the hospitality with which he was treated; as is evident
from that admirable work, his Journey to the Western Islands of
Scotland, which, to my utter astonishment, has been misapprehended,
even to rancour, by many of my countrymen.
To have the company of Chambers and Scott, he delayed his journey so
long, that the court of session, which rises on the eleventh of
August, was broke up before he got to Edinburgh.
On Saturday the fourteenth of August, 1773, late in the evening, I
received a note from him, that he was arrived at Boyd's inn, at the
head of the Canongate. I went to him directly. He embraced me
cordially; and I exulted in the thought, that I now had him actually
in Caledonia. Mr Scott's amiable manners, and attachment to our
Socrates, at once united me to him. He told me that, before I came in,
the Doctor had unluckily had a bad specimen of Scottish cleanliness.
He then drank no fermented liquor. He asked to have his lemonade made
sweeter; upon which the waiter, with his greasy fingers, lifted a lump
of sugar, and put it into it. The Doctor, in indignation, threw it out
of the window. Scott said, he was afraid he would have knocked the
waiter down. Mr Johnson told me, that such another trick was played
him at the house of a lady in Paris. He was to do me the honour to
lodge under my roof. I regretted sincerely that I had not also a room
for Mr Scott. Mr Johnson and I walked arm-in-arm up the High Street,
to my house in James's court: it was a dusky night: I could not
prevent his being assailed by the evening effluvia of Edinburgh. I
heard a late baronet, of some distinction in the political world in
the beginning of the present reign, observe, that 'walking the streets
of Edinburgh at night was pretty perilous, and a good deal
odoriferous'. The peril is much abated, by the care which the
magistrates have taken to enforce the city laws against throwing foul
water from the windows; but, from the structure of the houses in the
old town, which consist of many stories, in each of which a different
family lives, and there being no covered sewers, the odour still
continues. A zealous Scotsman would have wished Mr Johnson to be
without one of his five senses upon this occasion. As we marched
slowly along, he grumbled in my ear, 'I smell you in the dark!' But he
acknowledged that the breadth of the street, and the loftiness of the
buildings on each side, made a noble appearance.
My wife had tea ready for him, which it is well known he delighted to
drink at all hours, particularly when sitting up late, and of which
his able defence against Mr Jonas Hanway should have obtained him a
magnificent reward from the East India Company. He shewed much
complacency upon finding that the mistress of the house was so
attentive to his singular habit; and as no man could be more polite
when he chose to be so, his address to her was most courteous and
engaging; and his conversation soon charmed her into a forgetfulness
of his external appearance.
I did not begin to keep a regular full journal till some days after we
had set out from Edinburgh; but I have luckily preserved a good many
fragments of his Memorabilia from his very first evening in Scotland.
We had, a little before this, had a trial for murder, in which the
judges had allowed the lapse of twenty years since its commission as a
plea in bar, in conformity with the doctrine of prescription in the
civil law, which Scotland and several other countries in Europe have
adopted. He at first disapproved of this; but then he thought there
was something in it, if there had been for twenty years a neglect to
prosecute a crime which was KNOWN. He would not allow that a murder,
by not being DISCOVERED for twenty years, should escape punishment. We
talked of the ancient trial by duel. He did not think it so absurd as
is generally supposed; 'For,' said he, 'it was only allowed when the
question was in equilibria, as when one affirmed and another denied;
and they had a notion that Providence would interfere in favour of him
who was in the right. But as it was found that in a duel, he who was
in the right had not a better chance than he who was in the wrong,
therefore society instituted the present mode of trial, and gave the
advantage to him who is in the right.'
We sat till near two in the morning, having chatted a good while after
my wife left us. She had insisted, that to shew all respect to the
Sage, she would give up her own bed-chamber to him, and take a worse.
This I cannot but gratefully mention, as one of a thousand obligations
which I owe her, since the great obligation of her being pleased to
accept of me as her husband.
Sunday, 15th August
Mr Scott came to breakfast, at which I introduced to Dr Johnson, and
him, my friend Sir William Forbes, now of Pitsligo; a man of whom too
much good cannot be said; who, with distinguished abilities and
application in his profession of a banker, is at once a good
companion, and a good Christian; which I think is saying enough. Yet
it is but justice to record, that once, when he was in a dangerous
illness, he was watched with the anxious apprehension of a general
calamity; day and night his house was beset with affectionate
inquiries; and, upon his recovery, Te deum was the universal chorus
from the hearts of his countrymen.
Mr Johnson was pleased with my daughter Veronica,[Footnote: "The
saint's name of Veronica was introduced into our family through my
great grandmother Veronica, Countess of Kincardine, a Dutch lady of
the noble house of Sommelsdyck, of which there is a full account in
Bayle's Dictionary. The family had once a princely right in Surinam.
The governour of that settlement was appointed by the States General,
the town of Amsterdam, and Sommelsdyck. The States General have
acquired Sommelsdyck's right; but the family has still great dignity
and opulence, and by intermarriages is connected with many other noble
families. When I was at the Hague, I was received with all the
affection of kindred. The present Sommelsdyck has an important charge
in the Republick, and is as worthy a man as lives. He has honoured me
with his correspondence for these twenty years. My great grandfather,
the husband of Countess Veronica, was Alexander, Earl of Kincardine,
that eminent Royalist whose character is given by Burnet in his
History of his own Times. From him the blood of Bruce flows in my
veins. Of such ancestry who would not be proud? And, as Nihil est,
nisi hoc sciat alter, is peculiarly true of genealogy, who would not
be glad to seize a fair opportunity to let it be known "] then a child
of about four months old. She had the appearance of listening to him.
His motions seemed to her to be intended for her amusement; and when
he stopped, she fluttered, and made a little infantine noise, and a
kind of signal for him to begin again. She would be held close to him;
which was a proof, from simple nature, that his figure was not horrid.
Her fondness for him endeared her still more to me, and I declared she
should have five hundred pounds of additional fortune.
We talked of the practice of the law. William Forbes said, he thought
an honest lawyer should never undertake a cause which he was satisfied
was not a just one. 'Sir,' said Mr Johnson, 'a lawyer has no business
with the justice or injustice of the cause which he undertakes, unless
his client asks his opinion, and then he is bound to give it honestly.
The justice or injustice of the cause is to be decided by the judge.
Consider, sir; what is the purpose of courts of justice? It is, that
every man may have his cause fairly tried, by men appointed to try
causes. A lawyer is not to tell what he knows to be a lie: he is not
to produce what he knows to be a false deed; but he is not to usurp
the province of the jury and of the judge, and determine what shall be
the effect of evidence--what shall be the result of legal argument. As
it rarely happens that a man is fit to plead his own cause, lawyers
are a class of the community, who, by study and experience, have
acquired the art and power of arranging evidence, and of applying to
the points of issue what the law has settled. A lawyer is to do for
his client all that his client might fairly do for himself, if he
could. If, by a superiority of attention, of knowledge, of skill, and
a better method of communication, he has the advantage of his
adversary, it is an advantage to which he is entitled. There must
always be some advantage, on one side or other; and it is better that
advantage should be had by talents, than by chance. If lawyers were to
undertake no causes till they were sure they were just, a man might be
precluded altogether from a trial of his claim, though, were it
judicially examined, it might be found a very just claim.' This was
sound practical doctrine, and rationally repressed a too refined
scrupulosity of conscience.
Emigration was at this time a common topick of discourse. Dr Johnson
regretted it as hurtful to human happiness: 'For,' said he, 'it
spreads mankind which weakens the defence of a nation, and lessens the
comfort of living. Men, thinly scattered, make a shift, but a bad
shift, without many things. A smith is ten miles off: they'll do
without a nail or a staple. A taylor is far from them: they'll botch
their own clothes. It is being concentrated which produces high
convenience.'
Sir William Forbes, Mr Scott, and I, accompanied Mr Johnson to the
chapel, founded by Lord Chief Baron Smith, for the Service of the
Church of England. The Reverend Mr Carre, the senior clergyman,
preached from these words, 'Because the Lord reigneth, let the earth
be glad.' I was sorry to think Mr Johnson did not attend to the
sermon, Mr Carre's low voice not being strong enough to reach his
hearing. A selection of Mr Carre's sermons has, since his death, been
published by Sir William Forbes, and the world has acknowledged their
uncommon merit. I am well assured Lord Mansfield has pronounced them
to be excellent.
Here I obtained a promise from Lord Chief Baron Orde, that he would
dine at my house next day. I presented Mr Johnson to his Lordship, who
politely said to him, 'I have not the honour of knowing you; but I
hope for it, and to see you at my house. I am to wait on you
tomorrow.' This respectable English judge will be long remembered in
Scotland, where he built an elegant house, and lived in it
magnificently. His own ample fortune, with the addition of his salary,
enabled him to be splendidly hospitable. It may be fortunate for an
individual amongst ourselves to be Lord Chief Baron; and a most worthy
man now has the office; but, in my opinion, it is better for Scotland
in general, that some of our publick employments should be filled by
gentlemen of distinction from the south side of the Tweed, as we have
the benefit of promotion in England. Such an interchange would make a
beneficial mixture of manners, and render our union more complete.
Lord Chief Baron Orde was on good terms with us all, in a narrow
country filled with jarring interests and keen parties; and, though I
well knew his opinion to be the same with my own, he kept himself
aloof at a very critical period indeed, when the Douglas cause shook
the sacred security of birthright in Scotland to its foundation; a
cause, which had it happened before the Union, when there was no
appeal to a British House of Lords, would have left the great fortress
of honours and of property in ruins.
When we got home, Dr Johnson desired to see my books. He took down
Ogden's Sermons on Prayer, on which I set a very high value, having
been much edified by them, and he retired with them to his room. He
did not stay long, but soon joined us in the drawing room. I presented
to him Mr Robert Arbuthnot, a relation of the celebrated Dr Arbuthnot,
and a man of literature and taste. To him we were obliged for a
previous recommendation, which secured us a very agreeable reception
at St Andrews, and which Dr Johnson, in his Journey, ascribes to 'some
invisible friend'.
Of Dr Beattie, Mr Johnson said, 'Sir, he has written like a man
conscious of the truth, and feeling his own strength. Treating your
adversary with respect, is giving him an advantage to which he is not
entitled. The greatest part of men cannot judge of reasoning, and are
impressed by character; so that, if you allow your adversary a
respectable character, they will think, that though you differ from
him, you may be in the wrong. Sir, treating your adversary with
respect, is striking soft in a battle. And as to Hume--a man who has
so much conceit as to tell all mankind that they have been bubbled for
ages, and he is the wise man who sees better than they--a man who has
so little scrupulosity as to venture to oppose those principles which
have been thought necessary to human happiness--is he to be surprised
if another man comes and laughs at him? If he is the great man he
thinks himself, all this cannot hurt him: it is like throwing peas
against a rock.' He added 'something much too rough', both as to Mr
Hume's head and heart, which I suppress. Violence is, in my opinion,
not suitable to the Christian cause. Besides, I always lived on good
terms with Mr Hume, though I have frankly told him, I was not clear
that it was right in me to keep company with him, 'But', said I, 'how
much better are you than your books!' He was cheerful, obliging, and
instructive; he was charitable to the poor; and many an agreeable hour
have I passed with him: I have preserved some entertaining and
interesting memoirs of him, particularly when he knew himself to be
dying, which I may some time or other communicate to the world. I
shall not, however, extol him so very highly as Dr Adam Smith does,
who says, in a letter to Mr Strahan the printer (not a confidential
letter to his friend, but a letter which is published [Footnote: This
letter, though shattered by the sharp shot of Dr Horne of Oxford's
wit, in the character of 'One of the People called Christians', is
still prefixed to Mr Home's excellent History of England, like a poor
invalid on the piquet guard, or like a list of quack medicines sold by
the same bookseller, by whom a work of whatever nature is published;
for it has no connection with his History, let it have what it may
with what are called his Philosophical Works. A worthy friend of mine
in London was lately consulted by a lady of quality, of most
distinguished merit, what was the best History of England for her son
to read. My friend recommended Hume's. But, upon recollecting that its
usher was a superlative panegyrick on one, who endeavoured to sap the
credit of our holy religion, he revoked his recommendation. I am
really sorry for this ostentatious alliance; because I admire The
Theory of Moral Sentiments, and value the greatest part of An Inquiry
into the Nature and Causes of the Wealth of Nations. Why should such a
writer be so forgetful of human comfort, as to give any countenance to
that dreary infidelity which would' make us poor indeed!'] with all
formality): 'Upon the whole, I have always considered him, both in his
life time and since his death, as approaching as nearly to the idea of
a perfectly wise and virtuous man as perhaps the nature of human
frailty will permit.' Let Dr Smith consider: Was not Mr Hume blest
with good health, good spirits, good friends, a competent and
increasing fortune? And had he not also a perpetual feast of fame?
But, as a learned friend has observed to me, 'What trials did he
undergo, to prove the perfection of his virtue? Did he ever experience
any great instance of adversity?' When I read this sentence, delivered
by my old Professor of Moral Philosophy, I could not help exclaiming
with the Psalmist, 'Surely I have now more understanding than my
teachers!'
While we were talking, there came a note to me from Dr William
Robertson.
Dear Sir,
I have been expecting every day to hear from you, of Dr Johnson's
arrival. Pray, what do you know about his motions? I long to take him
by the hand. I write this from the college, where I have only this
scrap of paper. Ever yours,
W.R.
Sunday.
It pleased me to find Dr Robertson thus eager to meet Dr Johnson. I
was glad I could answer, that he was come: and I begged Dr Robertson
might be with us as soon as he could. Sir William Forbes, Mr Scott, Mr
Arbuthnot, and another gentleman dined with us. 'Come, Dr Johnson,'
said I, 'it is commonly thought that our veal in Scotland is not good.
But here is some which I believe you will like.' There was no catching
him: JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, what is commonly thought, I should take to be
true. YOUR veal may be good; but that will only be an exception to the
general opinion; not a proof against it.'
Dr Robertson, according to the custom of Edinburgh at that time, dined
in the interval between the forenoon and afternoon service, which was
then later than now; so we had not the pleasure of his company till
dinner was over, when he came and drank wine with us. And then began
some animated dialogue, of which here follows a pretty full note.
We talked of Mr Burke. Dr Johnson said, he had great variety of
knowledge, store of imagery, copiousness of language. ROBERTSON. 'He
has wit too.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir; he never succeeds there. 'Tis low;
'tis conceit. I used to say. Burke never once made a good joke.
[Footnote: This was one of the points upon which Dr Johnson was
strangely heterodox. For, surely, Mr Burke, with his other remarkable
qualities, is also distinguished for his wit, and for wit of all kinds
too; not merely that power of language which Pope chooses to
denominate wit.
True wit is Nature to advantage drest;
What oft was thought, but ne'er so well exprest.
but surprising allusions, brilliant sallies of vivacity, and pleasant
conceits. His speeches in Parliament are strewed with them. Take, for
instance, the variety which he has given in his wide range, yet exact
detail, when exhibiting his Reform Bill. And his conversation abounds
in wit. Let me put down a specimen. I told him, I had seen, at a blue
stocking assembly, a number of ladies sitting round a worthy and tall
friend of ours, listening to his literature. 'Ay,' said he, 'like
maids round a May-pole.' I told him, I had found a perfect definition
of human nature, as distinguished from the animal. An ancient
philosopher said, man was a 'two-legged animal without feathers', upon
which his rival sage had a cock plucked bare, and set him down in the
school before all the disciples, as a 'Philosophick Man'. Dr Franklin
said, man was 'a tool-making animal', which is very well; for no
animal but man makes a thing, by means of which he can make another
thing. But this applies to very few of the species. My definition of
man is, 'a Cooking Animal'. The beasts have memory, judgment and all
the faculties and passions of our mind, in a certain degree; but no
beast is a cook. The trick of the monkey using the cat's paw to roast
a chestnut is only a piece of shrewd malice in that turpissima bestia,
which humbles us so sadly by its similarity to us. Man alone can dress
a good dish; and every man whatever is more or less a cook, in
seasoning what he himself eats. 'Your definition is good,' said Mr
Burke, 'and I now see the full force of the common proverb. "There is
REASON in roasting of eggs".' When Mr Wilkes, in his days of
tumultuous opposition, was borne upon the shoulders of the mob. Mr
Burke (as Mr Wilkes told me himself, with classical admiration,)
applied to him what Horace says of Pindar,
... numerisque fertur
LEGE solutis.
Sir Joshua Reynolds, who agrees with me entirely as to Mr Burke's
fertility of wit said, that this was 'dignifying a pun'. He also
observed, that he has often heard Burke say, in the course of an
evening, ten good things, each of which would have served a noted wit
(whom he named) to live upon for a twelvemonth.
I find, since the former edition, that some persons have objected to
the instances which I have given of Mr Burke's wit, as not doing
justice to my very ingenious friend; the specimens produced having, it
is alleged, more of conceit than real wit and being merely sportive
sallies of the moment, not justifying the encomium which they think
with me, he undoubtedly merits. I was well aware, how hazardous it was
to exhibit particular instances of wit, which is of so airy and
spiritual a nature as often to elude the hand that attempts to grasp
it. The excellence and efficacy of a bon mot depend frequently so much
on the occasion on which it is spoken, on the particular manner of the
speaker, on the person of whom it is applied, the previous
introduction, and a thousand minute particulars which cannot be easily
enumerated, that it is always dangerous to detach a witty saying from
the group to which it belongs, and to see it before the eye of the
spectator, divested of those concomitant circumstances, which gave it
animation, mellowness, and relief. I ventured, however, at all hazards
to put down the first instances that occurred to me, as proofs of Mr
Burke's lively and brilliant fancy; but am very sensible that his
numerous friends could have suggested many of a superior quality.
Indeed, the being in company with him, for a single day, is sufficient
to shew that what I have asserted is well founded; and it was only
necessary to have appealed to all who know him intimately, for a
complete refutation of the heterodox opinion entertained by Dr Johnson
on this subject. HE allowed Mr Burke, as the reader will find
hereafter, to be a man of consummate and unrivalled abilities in every
light except that now under consideration; and the variety of his
allusions, and splendour of his imagery, have made such an impression
on ALL THE REST of the world, that superficial observers are apt to
overlook his other merits, and to suppose that wit is his chief and
most prominent excellence; when in fact it is only one of the many
talents that he possesses, which are so various and extraordinary,
that it is very difficult to ascertain precisely the rank and value of
each.] What I most envy Burke for, is, his being constantly the same.
He is never what we call humdrum; never unwilling to begin to talk,
nor in haste to leave off.' BOSWELL. 'Yet he can listen.' JOHNSON.
'No; I cannot say he is good at that. So desirous is he to talk, that,
if one is speaking at this end of the table, he'll speak to somebody
at the other end. Burke, sir, is such a man, that if you met him for
the first time in the street where you were stopped by a drove of
oxen, and you and he stepped aside to take shelter but for five
minutes, he'd talk to you in such a manner, that, when you parted, you
would say, this is an extraordinary man. Now, you may be long enough
with me, without finding any thing extraordinary.' He said, he
believed Burke was intended for the law; but either had not money
enough to follow it, or had not diligence enough. He said, he could
not understand how a man could apply to one thing, and not to another.
Robertson said, one man had more judgment, another more imagination.
JOHNSON. 'No, sir; it is only, one man has more mind than another. He
may direct it differently; he may, by accident, see the success of one
kind of study, and take a desire to excel in it. I am persuaded that,
had Sir Isaac Newton applied to poetry, he would have made a very fine
epick poem. I could as easily apply to law as to tragick poetry.'
BOSWELL. 'Yet, sir, you did apply to tragick poetry, not to law.'
JOHNSON. 'Because, sir, I had not money to study law. Sir, the man who
has vigour, may walk to the east, just as well as to the west, if he
happens to tune his head that way.' BOSWELL. 'But, sir, 'tis like
walking up and down a hill; one man will naturally do the one better
than the other. A hare will run up a hill best, from her fore-legs
being short; a dog down.' JOHNSON. 'Nay, sir; that is from mechanical
powers. If you make mind mechanical, you may argue in that manner. One
mind is a vice, and holds fast; there's a good memory. Another is a
file; and he is a disputant, a controversialist. Another is a razor;
and he is sarcastical.' We talked of Whitefield. He said, he was at
the same college with him, and knew him 'before he began to be better
than other people' (smiling); that he believed he sincerely meant
well, but had a mixture of politicks and ostentation: whereas Wesley
thought of religion only. [Footnote: That cannot be said now, after
the flagrant part which Mr John Wesley took against our American
brethren, when, in his own name, he threw amongst his enthusiastic
flock, the very individual combustibles of Dr Johnson's Taxation no
Tyranny: and after the intolerant spirit which he manifested against
our fellow Christians of the Roman Catholick Communion, for which that
able champion, Father O'Leary, has given him so hearty a drubbing. But
I should think myself very unworthy, if I did not at the same time
acknowledge Mr John Wesley's merit, as a veteran 'Soldier of Jesus
Christ', who has, I do believe, 'turned many from darkness into light,
and from the power of Satan to the living God'.] Robertson said,
Whitefield had strong natural eloquence, which, if cultivated, would
have done great things. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, I take it, he was at the
height of what his abilities could do, and was sensible of it. He had
the ordinary advantages of education; but he chose to pursue that
oratory which is for the mob.' BOSWELL. 'He had great effect on the
passions.' JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, I don't think so. He could not
represent a succession of pathetick images. He vociferated, and made
an impression. THERE, again, was a mind like a hammer.' Dr Johnson now
said, a certain eminent political friend of ours was wrong, in his
maxim of sticking to a certain set of MEN on all occasions. 'I can see
that a man may do right to stick to a PARTY,' said he;' that is to
say, he is a WHIG, or he is a TORY, and he thinks one of those parties
upon the whole the best, and that to make it prevail, it must be
generally supported, though, in particulars, it may be wrong. He takes
its faggot of principles, in which there are fewer rotten sticks than
in the other, though some rotten sticks to be sure; and they cannot
well be separated. But, to bind one's self to one man, or one set of
men (who may be right to-day and wrong to-morrow), without any general
preference of system, I must disapprove.' [Footnote: If due attention
were paid to this observation, there would be more virtue, even in
politicks. What Dr Johnson justly condemned, has, I am sorry to say,
greatly increased in the present reign. At the distance of four years
from this conversation, 21st February 1777, My Lord Archbishop of
York, in his 'Sermon before the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel in Foreign Parts', thus indignantly describes the then state of
parties: 'Parties once had a PRINCIPLE belonging to them, absurd
perhaps, and indefensible, but still carrying a notion of DUTY, by
which honest minds might easily be caught.
'But they are now COMBINATIONS OF INDIVIDUALS, who, instead of being
the sons and servants of the community, make a league for advancing
their PRIVATE INTERESTS. It is their business to hold high the notion
of POLITICAL HONOUR. I believe and trust, it is not injurious to say,
that such a bond is no better than that by which the lowest and
wickedest combinations are held together; and that it denotes the last
stage of political depravity.'
To find a thought, which just shewed itself to us from the mind of
JOHNSON, thus appearing again at such a distance of time, and without
any communication between them, enlarged to full growth in the mind of
MARKHAM, is a curious object of philosophical contemplation. That two
such great and luminous minds should have been so dark in one
corner--that THEY should have held it to be 'wicked rebellion in the
British subjects established in America, to resist the abject
condition of holding all their property at the mercy of British
subjects remaining at home, while their allegiance to our common Lord
the King was to be preserved inviolate'--is a striking proof to me,
either that 'He who fitteth in Heaven', scorns the loftiness of human
pride, or that the evil spirit, whose personal existence I strongly
believe, and even in this age am confirmed in that belief by a Fell,
nay, by a Hurd, has more power than some choose to allow.]
He told us of Cooke, who translated Hesiod, and lived twenty years on
a translation of Plautus, for which he was always taking
subscriptions; and that he presented Foote to a club, in the following
singular manner: 'This is the nephew of the gentleman who was lately
hung in chains for murdering his brother.'
In the evening I introduced to Mr Johnson [Footnote: It may be
observed, that I sometimes call my great friend, MR Johnson, sometimes
DR Johnson, though he had at this time a doctor's degree from Trinity
College, Dublin. The University of Oxford afterwards conferred it upon
him by a diploma, in very honourable terms. It was some time before I
could bring myself to call him Doctor; but as he has been long known
by that title, I shall give it to him in the rest of this Journal.]
two good friends of mine, Mr William Nairne, advocate, and Mr Hamilton
of Sundrum, my neighbour in the country, both of whom supped with us.
I have preserved nothing of what passed, except that Dr Johnson
displayed another of his heterodox opinions--a contempt of tragick
acting. He said, 'the action of all players in tragedy is bad. It
should be a man's study to repress those signs of emotion and passion,
as they are called.' He was of a directly contrary opinion to that of
Fielding, in his Tom Jones; who makes Partridge say, of Garrick, 'why,
I could act as well as he myself. I am sure, if I had seen a ghost, I
should have looked in the very same manner, and done just as he did.'
For, when I asked him, 'Would not you, sir, start as Mr Garrick does,
if you saw a ghost?' He answered, 'I hope not. If I did, I should
frighten the ghost.'
Monday, 16th August
Dr William Robertson came to breakfast. We talked of Ogden on Prayer.
Dr Johnson said, 'The same arguments which are used against God's
hearing prayer, will serve against his rewarding good, and punishing
evil. He has resolved, he has declared, in the former case as in the
latter.' He had last night looked into Lord Hailes's Remarks on the
History of Scotland. Dr Robertson and I said, it was a pity Lord
Hailes did not write greater things. His lordship had not then
published his Annals of Scotland. JOHNSON. 'I remember I was once on a
visit at the house of a lady for whom I had a high respect. There was
a good deal of company in the room. When they were gone, I said to
this lady, "What foolish talking have we had!" "Yes," said she, "but
while they talked, you said nothing." I was struck with reproof. How
much better is the man who does nothing. Besides, I love anecdotes. I
fancy mankind may come, in time, to write all aphoristically, except
in narrative; grow weary of preparation, and connection, and
illustration, and all those arts by which a big book is made. If a man
is to wait till he weaves anecdotes into a system, we may be long in
getting them, and get but a few, in comparison of what we might get.'
Dr Robertson said, the notions of Eupham Macallan. a fanatick woman,
of whom Lord Hailes gives a sketch, were still prevalent among some of
the Presbyterians; and therefore it was right in Lord Hailes, a man of
known piety, to undeceive them.
We walked out, that Dr Johnson might see some of the things which we
have to shew at Edinburgh. We went to the Parliament House, where the
Parliament of Scotland sat, and where the Ordinary Lords of Session
hold their courts; and to the New Session House adjoining to it, where
our Court of Fifteen (the fourteen Ordinaries, with the Lord President
at their head) sit as a court of Review. We went to the Advocates'
Library, of which Dr Johnson took a cursory view, and then to what is
called the Laigh (or Under) Parliament House, where the records of
Scotland, which has an universal security by register, are deposited,
till the great Register Office be finished. I was pleased to behold Dr
Samuel Johnson rolling about in this old magazine of antiquities.
There was, by this time, a pretty numerous circle of us attending upon
him. Somebody talked of happy moments for composition; and how a man
can write at one time, and not at another. 'Nay,' said Dr Johnson, 'a
man may write at any time, if he will set himself DOGGEDLY [Footnote:
This word is commonly used to signify sullenly, gloomily: and in that
sense alone it appears in Dr Johnson's Dictionary. I suppose he meant
by it 'with an OBSTINATE RESOLUTION, similar to that of a sullen
man'.] to it.'
I here began to indulge old Scottish sentiments, and to express a warm
regret, that, by our union with England, we were no more--our
independent kingdom was lost. JOHNSON. 'Sir, never talk of your
independency, who could let your Queen remain twenty years in
captivity, and then be put to death, without even a pretence of
justice, without your ever attempting to rescue her; and such a Queen
too! as every man of any gallantry of spirit would have sacrificed his
life for.' Worthy MR JAMES KERR, Keeper of the Records. 'Half our
nation was bribed by English money.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, that is no
defence: that makes you worse.' Good MR BROWN, Keeper of the Advocates
Library. 'We had better say nothing about it.' BOSWELL. 'You would
have been glad, however, to have had us last war, sir, to fight your
battles!' JOHNSON. 'We should have had you for the same price, though
there had been no Union, as we might have had Swiss, or other troops.
No, no, I shall agree to a separation. You have only to GO HOME.' Just
as he had said this, I to divert the subject, shewed him the signed
assurances of the three successive Kings of the Hanover family, to
maintain the Presbyterian establishment in Scotland. 'We'll give you
that,' said he, 'into the bargain.'
We next went to the great church of St Giles, which has lost its
original magnificence in the inside, by being divided into four places
of Presbyterian worship. 'Come,' said Dr Johnson jocularly to
Principal Robertson, [Footnote: I have hitherto called him Dr William
Robertson, to distinguish him from Dr James Robertson, who is soon to
make his appearance. But 'Principal', from his being the head of our
college, is his usual designation, and is shorter; so I shall use it
hereafter.] 'let me see what was once a church!' We entered that
division which was formerly called the New Church, and of late the
High Church, so well known by the eloquence of Dr Hugh Blair. It is
now very elegantly fitted up; but it was then shamefully dirty. Dr
Johnson said nothing at the time; but when we came to the great door
of the Royal Infirmary, where, upon a board, was this inscription,
CLEAN YOUR FEET! he turned about slyly, and said, 'There is no
occasion for putting this at the doors of your churches!'
We then conducted him down the Post-house stairs, Parliament Close,
and made him look up from the Cow-gate to the highest building in
Edinburgh (from which he had just descended), being thirteen floors or
stories from the ground upon the back elevation; the front wall being
built upon the edge of the hill, and the back wall rising from the
bottom of the hill several stories before it comes to a level with the
front wall. We proceeded to the College, with the Principal at our
head. Dr Adam Fergusson, whose Essay on the History of Civil Society
gives him a respectable place in the ranks of literature, was with us.
As the College buildings are indeed very mean, the Principal said to
Dr Johnson, that he must give them the same epithet that a Jesuit did
when shewing a poor college abroad: Hae miseriae nostrae. Dr Johnson
was, however, much pleased with the library, and with the conversation
of Dr James Robertson, Professor of Oriental Languages, the Librarian.
We talked of Kennicot's edition of the Hebrew Bible, and hoped it
would be quite faithful. JOHNSON. 'Sir, I know not any crime so great
that a man could contrive to commit, as poisoning the sources of
eternal truth.'
I pointed out to him where there formerly stood an old wall enclosing
part of the college, which I remember bulged out in a threatening
manner, and of which there was a common tradition similar to that
concerning Bacon's study at Oxford, that it would fall upon some very
learned man. It had some time before this been taken down, that the
street might be widened, and a more convenient wall built. Dr Johnson,
glad of an opportunity to have a pleasant hit at Scottish learning,
said, 'they have been afraid it never would fall'.
We shewed him the Royal Infirmary, for which, and for every other
exertion of generous publick spirit in his power, that noble-minded
citizen of Edinburgh, George Drummond, will be ever held in honourable
remembrance. And we were too proud not to carry him to the Abbey of
Holyrood House, that beautiful piece of architecture, but, alas! that
deserted mansion of royalty, which Hamilton of Bangour, in one of his
elegant poems, calls
A virtuous palace, where no monarch dwells.
I was much entertained while Principal Robertson fluently harangued to
Dr Johnson, upon the spot, concerning scenes of his celebrated History
of Scotland. We surveyed that part of the palace appropriated to the
Duke of Hamilton, as Keeper, in which our beautiful Queen Mary lived,
and in which David Rizzio was murdered; and also the State Rooms. Dr
Johnson was a great reciter of all sorts of things serious or comical.
I over-heard him repeating here, in a kind of muttering tone, a line
of the old ballad, 'Johnny Armstrong's Last Good-Night':
'And ran him through the fair body!'
[Footnote: The stanza from which he took this line is:
But then rose up all Edinburgh,
They rose up by thousands three;
A cowardly Scot came John behind,
And ran him through the fair body!]
We returned to my house, where there met him, at dinner, the Duchess
of Douglas, Sir Adolphus Oughton, Lord Chief Baron, Sir William
Forbes, Principal Robertson, Mr Cullen, advocate. Before dinner, he
told us of a curious conversation between the famous George Faulkner
and him. George said that England had drained Ireland of fifty
thousand pounds in specie, annually, for fifty years. 'How so, sir!'
said Dr Johnson, 'you must have a very great trade?' 'No trade.' 'Very
rich mines?' 'No mines.' 'From whence, then, does all this money
come?' 'Come! why out of the blood and bowels of the poor people of
Ireland!'
He seemed to me to have an unaccountable prejudice against Swift; for
I once took a liberty to ask him, if Swift had personally offended
him, and he told me, he had not. He said to-day, 'Swift is clear, but
he is shallow. In coarse humour, he is inferior to Arbuthnot; in
delicate humour, he is inferior to Addison: so he is inferior to his
contemporaries; without putting him against the whole world. I doubt
if the Tale of a Tub was his: it has so much more thinking, more
knowledge, more power, more colour, than any of the works which are
indisputably his. If it was his, I shall only say, he was impar sibi.'
We gave him as good a dinner as we could. Our Scotch muir-fowl, or
growse, were then abundant, and quite in season; and, so far as wisdom
and wit can be aided by administering agreeable sensations to the
palate, my wife took care that our great guest should not be
deficient.
Sir Adolphus Oughton, then our Deputy Commander in Chief, who was not
only an excellent officer, but one of the most universal scholars I
ever knew, had learned the Erse language, and expressed his belief in
the authenticity of Ossian's poetry. Dr Johnson took the opposite side
of that perplexed question; and I was afraid the dispute would have
run high between them. But Sir Adolphus, who had a very sweet temper,
changed the discourse, grew playful, laughed at Lord Monboddo's notion
of men having tails, and called him a Judge, a posteriori, which
amused Dr Johnson; and thus hostilities were prevented.
At supper we had Dr Cullen, his son the advocate, Dr Adam Fergusson,
and Mr Crosbie, advocate. Witchcraft was introduced. Mr Crosbie said,
he thought it the greatest blasphemy to suppose evil spirits
counteracting the Deity, and raising storms, for instance, to destroy
his creatures. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, if moral evil be consistent with
the government of the Deity, why may not physical evil be also
consistent with it? It is not more strange that there should be evil
spirits, than evil embodied spirits. And as to storms, we know there
are such things; and it is no worse that evil spirits raise them, than
that they rise.' CROSBIE. 'But it is not credible, that witches should
have effected what they are said in stories to have done.' JOHNSON.
'Sir, I am not defending their credibility. I am only saying, that
your arguments are not good, and will not overturn the belief of
witchcraft.' (Dr Fergusson said to me, aside, 'He is right.') 'And
then, sir, you have all mankind, rude and civilized, agreeing in the
belief of the agency of preternatural powers. You must take evidence:
you must consider, that wise and great men have condemned witches to
die.' CROSBIE. 'But an Act of Parliament put an end to witchcraft.'
JOHNSON. 'No, sir; witchcraft had ceased; and therefore an Act of
Parliament was passed to prevent persecution for what was not
witchcraft. Why it ceased, we cannot tell, as we cannot tell the
reason of many other things.' Dr Cullen, to keep up the gratification
of mysterious disquisition, with the grave address for which he is
remarkable in his companionable as in his professional hours, talked,
in a very entertaining manner, of people walking and conversing in
their sleep. I am very sorry I have no note of this. We talked of the
Ouran-Outang, and of Lord Monboddo's thinking that he might be taught
to speak. Dr Johnson treated this with ridicule. Mr Crosbie said, that
Lord Monboddo believed the existence of every thing possible; in
short, that all which is in posse might be found in esse. JOHNSON.
'But, sir, it is as possible that the Ouran-Outang does not speak, as
that he speaks. However, I shall not contest the point. I should have
thought it not possible to find a Monboddo; yet HE exists.' I again
mentioned the stage. JOHNSON. 'The appearance of a player, with whom I
have drunk tea, counteracts the imagination that he is the character
he represents. Nay, you know, nobody imagines that he is the character
he represents. They say, "See Garrick! how he looks to-night! See how
he'll clutch the dagger!" That is the buz of the theatre.'
Tuesday, 17th August
Sir William Forbes came to breakfast, and brought with him Dr
Blacklock, whom he introduced to Dr Johnson, who received him with a
most humane complacency. 'Dear Blacklock, I am glad to see you!'
Blacklock seemed to be much surprised, when Dr Johnson said, 'it was
easier to him to write poetry than to compose his Dictionary. His mind
was less on the stretch in doing the one than the other. Besides;
composing a dictionary requires books and a desk: you can make a poem
walking in the fields, or lying in bed.' Dr Blacklock spoke of
scepticism in morals and religion, with apparant uneasiness, as if he
wished for more certainty. Dr Johnson, who had thought it all over,
and whose vigorous understanding was fortified by much experience,
thus encouraged the blind bard to apply to higher speculations what we
willingly submit to in common life: in short, he gave him more
familiarly the able and fair reasoning of Butler's Analogy: 'Why, sir,
the greatest concern we have in this world, the choice of our
profession, must be determined without demonstrative reasoning. Human
life is not yet so well known, as that we can have it. And take the
case of a man who is ill. I call two physicians: they differ in
opinion. I am not to lie down, and die between them: I must do
something.' The conversation then turned on atheism; on that horrible
book, Systeme de la Nature; and on the supposition of an eternal
necessity, without design, without a governing mind. JOHNSON. 'If it
were so, why has it ceased? Why don't we see men thus produced around
us now? Why, at least, does it not keep pace, in some measure, with
the progress of time? If it stops because there is now no need of it,
then it is plain there is, and ever has been, an all-powerful
intelligence. But stay!' said he, with one of his satyrick laughs.
'Hal ha! ha! I shall suppose Scotchmen made necessarily, and
Englishmen by choice.'
At dinner this day, we had Sir Alexander Dick, whose amiable
character, and ingenious and cultivated mind, are so generally known
(he was then on the verge of seventy, and is now (1785) eighty-one,
with his faculties entire, his heart warm, and his temper gay); Sir
David Dalrymple; Lord Hailes; Mr Maclaurin, advocate; Dr Gregory, who
now worthily fills his father's medical chair; and my uncle, Dr
Boswell. This was one of Dr Johnson's best days. He was quite in his
element. All was literature and taste, without any interruption. Lord
Hailes, who is one of the best philologists in Great Britain, who has
written papers in the World, and a variety of other works in prose and
in verse, both Latin and English, pleased him highly. He told him, he
had discovered the Life of Cheynel, in the Student, to be his.
JOHNSON. 'No one else knows it.' Dr Johnson had, before this, dictated
to me a law-paper, upon a question purely in the law of Scotland,
concerning 'vicious intromission', that is to say, intermeddling with
the effects of a deceased person, without a regular title; which
formerly was understood to subject the intermeddler to payment of all
the defunct's debts. The principle has of late been relaxed. Dr
Johnson's argument was, for a renewal of its strictness. The paper was
printed, with additions by me, and given into the Court of Session.
Lord Hailes knew Dr Johnson's part not to be mine, and pointed out
exactly where it began, and where it ended. Dr Johnson said, 'It is
much, now, that his lordship can distinguish so.'
In Dr Johnson's Vanity of Human Wishes, there is the following
passage:
The teeming mother, anxious for her race,
Begs, for each birth, the fortune of a face:
Yet VANE could tell, what ills from beauty spring;
And SEDLEY curs'd the charms which pleas'd a king.
Lord Hailes told him, he was mistaken in the instances he had given of
unfortunate fair ones; for neither Vane nor Sedley had a title to that
description. His Lordship has since been so obliging as to send me a
note of this, for the communication of which I am sure my readers will
thank me.
The lines in the tenth Satire of Juvenal, according to my alteration,
should have run thus:
Yet SHORE [Footnote: Mistress of Edward IV.] could tell--;
And VALIERE [Footnote: Mistress of Louis XIV.] curs'd--.
The first was a penitent by compulsion, the second by sentiment;
though the truth is, Mademoiselle de la Valiere threw herself (but
still from sentiment) in the King's way.
'Our friend chose Vane, who was far from being well-looked; and
Sedley, who was so ugly, that Charles II said, his brother had her by
way of penance.'
Mr Maclaurin's learning and talents enabled him to do his part very
well in Dr Johnson's company. He produced two epitaphs upon his
father, the celebrated mathematician. One was in English, of which Dr
Johnson did not change one word. In the other, which was in Latin, he
made several alterations. In place of the very words of Virgil, Ubi
luctus et pavor et plurima mortis imago, he wrote Ubi luctus regnant
et pavor. He introduced the word prorsus into the line Mortalibus
prorsus non absit solatium and after Hujus enim scripta evolve, he
added, Mentemque tantarum rerum capacem corpori caduco superstitem
crede; which is quite applicable to Dr Johnson himself. [Footnote: Mr
Maclaurin's epitaph, as engraved on a marble tombstone, in the
Gray-Friars church-yard, Edinburgh:
Infra situs est
COLIN MACLAURIN
Mathes. olim in Acad. Edin. Prof.
Electus ipso Newtono suadente.
H. L. P. F.
Non ut nomini paterno consulat,
Nam tali auxilio nil eget;
Sed ut in hoc infelici campo,
Ubi luctus regnant et pavor,
Mortalibus prorsus non absit solatium:
Hujus enim scripta evolve,
Mentemque tantarum rerum capacem
Corpori caduco superstitem crede.]
Mr Murray, advocate, who married a niece of Lord Mansfield's and is
now one of the Judges of Scotland, by the title of Lord Henderland,
sat with us a part of the evening; but did not venture to say any
thing, that I remember, though he is certainly possessed of talents
which would have enabled him to have shewn himself to advantage, if
too great anxiety had not prevented him.
At supper we had Dr Alexander Webster, who, though not learned, had
such a knowledge of mankind, such a fund of information and
entertainment, so clear a head and such accommodating manners, that Dr
Johnson found him a very agreeable companion.
When Dr Johnson and I were left by ourselves, I read to him my notes
of the opinions of our Judges upon the questions of Literary Property.
He did not like them; and said, 'they make me think of your Judges not
with that respect which I should wish to do'. To the argument of one
of them, that there can be no property in blasphemy or nonsense, he
answered, 'then your rotten sheep are mine! By that rule, when a man's
house falls into decay, he must lose it.' I mentioned an argument of
mine, that literary performances are not taxed. As Churchill says,
No statesman yet has thought it worth his pains
To tax our labours, or excite our brains;
and therefore they are not property. 'Yet,' said he, 'we hang a man
for stealing a horse, and horses are not taxed.' Mr Pitt has since put
an end to that argument.
Wednesday, 18th August
On this day we set out from Edinburgh. We should gladly have had Mr
Scott to go with us; but he was obliged to return to England. I have
given a sketch of Dr Johnson: my readers may wish to know a little of
his fellow traveller. Think then, of a gentleman of ancient blood, the
pride of which was his predominant passion. He was then in his
thirty-third year, and had been about four years happily married. His
inclination was to be a soldier; but his father, a respectable judge,
had pressed him into the profession of the law. He had travelled a
good deal, and seen many varieties of human life. He had thought more
than any body supposed, and had a pretty good stock of general
learning and knowledge. He had all Dr Johnson's principles, with some
degree of relaxation. He had rather too little, than too much
prudence, and, his imagination being lively, he often said things of
which the effect was very different from the intention. He resembled
sometimes
The best good man, with the worst natur'd muse.
He cannot deny himself the vanity of finishing with the encomium of Dr
Johnson, whose friendly partiality to the companion of his Tour
represents him as one, 'whose acuteness would help my inquiry, and
whose gaiety of conversation, and civility of manners, are sufficient
to counteract the inconveniences of travel, in countries less
hospitable than we have passed.'
Dr Johnson thought it unnecessary to put himself to the additional
expense of bringing with him Francis Barber, his faithful black
servant; so we were attended only by my man, Joseph Ritter, a
Bohemian; a fine stately fellow above six feet high, who had been over
a great part of Europe, and spoke many languages. He was the best
servant I ever saw. Let not my readers disdain his introduction! For
Dr Johnson gave him this character: 'Sir, he is a civil man, and a
wise man.'
From an erroneous apprehension of violence, Dr Johnson had provided a
pair of pistols, some gun-powder, and a quantity of bullets: but upon
being assured we should run no risk of meeting any robbers, he left
his arms and ammunition in an open drawer, of which he gave my wife
the charge. He also left in that drawer one volume of a pretty full
and curious Diary of his Life, of which I have a few fragments; but
the book has been destroyed. I wish female curiosity had been strong
enough to have had it all transcribed, which might easily have been
done; and I should think the theft, being pro bono publico, might have
been forgiven. But I may be wrong. My wife told me she never once
looked into it. She did not seem quite easy when we left her: but away
we went!
Mr Nairne, advocate, was to go with us as far as St Andrews. It gives
me pleasure that, by mentioning his name, I connect his title to the
just and handsome compliment paid him by Dr Johnson, in his book: 'A
gentleman who could stay with us only long enough to make us know how
much we lost by his leaving us.' When we came to Leith, I talked with
perhaps too boasting an air, how pretty the Frith of Forth looked; as
indeed, after the prospect from Constantinople, of which I have been
told, and that from Naples, which I have seen, I believe the view of
that Frith and its environs, from the Castle Hill of Edinburgh, is the
finest prospect in Europe. 'Ay,' said Dr Johnson, 'that is the state
of the world. Water is the same every where.
Una est injusti caerula forma maris. [Footnote: Non illic urbes, non
tu mirabere silvas: Una est injusti caerula forma maris.
Ovid. Amor. II. xi.
Nor groves nor towns the ruthless ocean shows;
Unvaried still its azure surface flows.]
I told him the port here was the mouth of the river or water of Leith.
'Not LETHE,' said Mr Nairne. 'Why, sir,' said Dr Johnson, 'when a
Scotchman sets out from this port for England, he forgets his native
country.' NAIRNE. 'I hope, sir, you will forget England here.'
JOHNSON. 'Then 'twill be still more Lethe.' He observed of the pier or
quay, 'you have no occasion for so large a one: your trade does not
require it: but you are like a shopkeeper who takes a shop, not only
for what he has to put into it, but that it may be believed he has a
great deal to put into it'. It is very true, that there is now,
comparatively, little trade upon the eastern coast of Scotland. The
riches of Glasgow shew how much there is in the west; and perhaps we
shall find trade travel westward on a great scale, as well as a small.
We talked of a man's drowning himself. JOHNSON. 'I should never think
it time to make away with myself.' I put the case of Eustace Budgell,
who was accused of forging a will, and sunk himself in the Thames,
before the trial of its authenticity came on. 'Suppose, sir,' said I,
'that a man is absolutely sure, that, if he lives a few days longer,
he shall be detected in a fraud, the consequence of which will be
utter disgrace and expulsion from society.' JOHNSON. 'Then, sir, let
him go abroad to a distant country; let him go to some place where he
is NOT known. Don't let him go to the devil where he IS known!'
He then said, 'I see a number of people bare-footed here: I suppose
you all went so before the Union. Boswell, your ancestors went so,
when they had as much land as your family has now. Yet Auchinleck is
the Field of Stones: there would be bad going bare-footed here. The
lairds, however, did it.' I bought some speldings, fish (generally
whitings) salted and dried in a particular manner, being dipped in the
sea and dried in the sun, and eaten by the Scots by way of a relish.
He had never seen them, though they are sold in London. I insisted on
scottifying [Footnote: My friend, General Campbell, Governour of
Madras, tells me, that they make speldings in the East Indies,
particularly at Bombay, where they call them Bambaloes.] his palate;
but he was very reluctant. With difficulty I prevailed with him to let
a bit of one of them lie in his mouth. He did not like it.
In crossing the Frith, Dr Johnson determined that we should land upon
Inch Keith. On approaching it, we first observed a high rocky shore.
We coasted about, and put into a little bay on the north-west. We
clambered up a very steep ascent, on which was very good grass, but
rather a profusion of thistles. There were sixteen head of black
cattle grazing upon the island. Lord Hailes observed to me, that
Brantome calls it L'isle des Chevaux, and that it was probably 'a
SAFER stable' than many others in his time. The fort, with an
inscription on it, MARIA RE 1564, is strongly built. Dr Johnson
examined it with much attention. He stalked like a giant among the
luxuriant thistles and nettles. There are three wells in the island;
but we could not find one in the fort. There must probably have been
one, though now filled up, as a garrison could not subsist without it.
But I have dwelt too long on this little spot. Dr Johnson afterwards
bade me try to write a description of our discovering Inch Keith, in
the usual style of travellers, describing fully every particular;
stating the grounds on which we concluded that it must have once been
inhabited, and introducing many sage reflections; and we should see
how a thing might be covered in words, so as to induce people to come
and survey it. All that was told might be true, and yet in reality
there might be nothing to see. He said, 'I'd have this island. I'd
build a house, make a good landing-place, have a garden, and vines,
and all sorts of trees. A rich man, of a hospitable turn, here, would
have many visitors from Edinburgh.' When we had got into our boat
again, he called to me, 'Come, now, pay a classical compliment to the
island on quitting it.' I happened luckily, in allusion to the
beautiful Queen Mary, whose name is upon the fort, to think of what
Virgil makes Aeneas say, on having left the country of his charming
Dido:
Invitus, regina, tuo de littare cessi. [Footnote: Unhappy queen!
Unwilling I forsook your friendly state. DRYDEN]
'Very well hit off!' said he.
We dined at Kinghorn, and then got into a post-chaise. Mr Nairne and
his servant, and Joseph, rode by us. We stopped at Cupar, and drank
tea. We talked of Parliament; and I said, I supposed very few of the
members knew much of what was going on, as indeed very few gentlemen
know much of their own private affairs. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, if a man
is not of a sluggish mind, he may be his own steward. If he will look
into his affairs, he will soon learn. So it is as to publick affairs.
There must always be a certain number of men of business in
Parliament.' BOSWELL. 'But consider, sir; what is the House of
Commons? Is not a great part of it chosen by peers? Do you think, sir,
they ought to have such an influence?' JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir. Influence
must ever be in proportion to property; and it is right it should.'
BOSWELL. 'But is there not reason to fear that the common people may
be oppressed?' JOHNSON. 'No, sir. Our great fear is from want of power
in government. Such a storm of vulgar force has broke in.' BOSWELL.
'It has only roared.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, it has roared, till the Judges in
Westminster Hall have been afraid to pronounce sentence in opposition
to the popular cry. You are frightened by what is no longer dangerous,
like Presbyterians by popery.' He then repeated a passage, I think, in
Butler's Remains, which ends, 'and would cry, Fire! Fire! in Noah's
flood'. [Footnote: The passage quoted by Dr Johnson is in the
Character of the Assembly-man. Butler's Remains, p. 232, edit. 1754.
'He preaches, indeed, both in season and out of season; for he rails
at Popery, when the land is almost lost in Presbytery; and would cry
Fire! Fire! in Noah's flood.'
There is no reason to believe that this piece was not written by
Butler, but by Sir John Birkenhead; for Wood, in his Athenae
Oxonienses. Vol. II. p. 460. enumerates it among that gentleman's
works, and gives the following account of it:
The Assembly-man (or The Character of an Assembly-man) written 1647,
LOND. 1662-3, in three sheets in qu. The copy of it was taken from the
author by those who said they could not rob, because all was theirs;
so excised what they liked not; and so mangled and reformed it that it
was no character of an Assembly, but of themselves. At length, after
it had slept several years, the author published it, to avoid false
copies. It is also reprinted in a book entit. Wit and Loyalty Revived,
in a collection of some smart satyrs in verse and prose on the late
times. LOND. 1682, qu. said to be written by Abr. Cowley, Sir John
Birkenhead, and Hudibras, alias Sam. Butler.' For this information I
am indebted to Mr Reed, of Staple Inn.]
We had a dreary drive, in a dusky night, to St Andrews, where we
arrived late. We found a good supper at Glass's inn, and Dr Johnson
revived agreeably. He said, 'the collection called The Muses' Welcome
to King James (first of England, and sixth of Scotland), on his return
to his native kingdom, shewed that there was then abundance of
learning in Scotland; and that the conceits in that collection, with
which people find fault, were mere mode'. He added, 'we could not now
entertain a sovereign so; that Buchanan had spread the spirit of
learning amongst us, but we had lost it during the civil wars'. He did
not allow the Latin poetry of Pitcairne so much merit as has been
usually attributed to it; though he owned that one of his pieces,
which he mentioned, but which I am sorry is not specified in my notes,
was 'very well'. It is not improbable that it was the poem which Prior
has so elegantly translated.
After supper, we made a procession to Saint Leonard's College, the
landlord walking before us with a candle, and the waiter with a
lantern. That college had some time before been dissolved; and Dr
Watson, a professor here (the historian of Phillip II), had purchased
the ground, and what buildings remained. When we entered his court, it
seemed quite academical; and we found in his house very comfortable
and genteel accommodation. [Footnote: My Journal, from this day
inclusive, was read by Dr Johnson.]
Thursday, 19th August
We rose much refreshed. I had with me a map of Scotland, a Bible,
which was given me by Lord Mountstuart when we were together in Italy,
and Ogden's Sermons on Prayer. Mr Nairne introduced us to Dr Watson,
whom we found a well-informed man, of very amiable manners. Dr
Johnson, after they were acquainted, said, 'I take great delight in
him.' His daughter, a very pleasing young lady, made breakfast. Dr
Watson observed, that Glasgow University had fewer home-students,
since trade increased, as learning was rather incompatible with it.
JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, as trade is now carried on by subordinate hands,
men in trade have as much leisure as others; and now learning itself
is a trade. A man goes to a bookseller, and gets what he can. We have
done with patronage. In the infancy of learning, we find some great
man praised for it. This diffused it among others. When it becomes
general, an author leaves the great, and applies to the multitude.'
BOSWELL. 'It is a shame that authors are not now better patronized.'
JOHNSON. 'No, sir. If learning cannot support a man, if he must sit
with his hands across till somebody feeds him, it is as to him a bad
thing, and it is better as it is. With patronage, what flattery! What
falsehood! While a man is in equilibria, he throws truth among the
multitude, and lets them take it as they please: in patronage, he must
say what pleases his patron, and it is an equal chance whether that be
truth or falsehood.' WATSON. 'But is not the case now, that, instead
of flattering one person, we flatter the age?' JOHNSON. 'No, sir. The
world always lets a man tell what he thinks, his own way. I wonder
however, that so many people have written, who might have let it
alone. That people should endeavour to excel in conversation, I do not
wonder; because in conversation praise is instantly reverberated.'
We talked of change of manners. Dr Johnson observed, that our drinking
less than our ancestors was owing to the change from ale to wine. 'I
remember,' said he, 'when all the DECENT people in Lichfield got drunk
every night, and were not the worse thought of. Ale was cheap, so you
pressed strongly. When a man must bring a bottle of wine, he is not in
such haste. Smoking has gone out. To be sure, it is a shocking thing,
blowing smoke out of our mouths into other people's mouths, eyes, and
noses, and having the same thing done to us. Yet I cannot account, why
a thing which requires so little exertion, and yet preserves the mind
from total vacuity, should have gone out. Every man has something by
which he calms himself: beating with his feet, or so. [Footnote: Dr
Johnson used to practice this himself very much.] I remember when
people in England changed a shirt only once a week: a Pandour, when he
gets a shirt, greases it to make it last. Formerly, good tradesmen had
no fire but in the kitchen; never in the parlour, except on Sunday. My
father, who was a magistrate of Lichfield, lived thus. They never
began to have a fire in the parlour, but on leaving off business, or
some great revolution of their life.' Dr Watson said, the hall was as
a kitchen, in old squires' houses. JOHNSON. 'No, sir. The hall was for
great occasions, and never was used for domestick reflection.' We
talked of the Union, and what money it had brought into Scotland. Dr
Watson observed, that a little money formerly went as far as a great
deal now. JOHNSON. 'In speculation, it seems that a smaller quantity
of money, equal in value to a larger quantity, if equally divided,
should produce the same effect. But it is not so in reality. Many more
conveniences and elegancies are enjoyed where money is plentiful, than
where it is scarce. Perhaps a great familiarity with it, which arises
from plenty, makes us more easily part with it.'
After what Dr Johnson had said of St Andrews, which he had long wished
to see, as our oldest university, and the seat of our Primate in the
days of episcopacy, I can say little. Since the publication of Dr
Johnson's book, I find that he has been censured for not seeing here
the ancient chapel of St Rule, a curious piece of sacred architecture.
But this was neither his fault nor mine. We were both of us abundantly
desirous of surveying such sort of antiquities: but neither of us knew
of this. I am afraid the censure must fall on those who did not tell
us of it. In every place, where there is any thing worthy of
observation, there should be a short printed directory for strangers,
such as we find in all the towns of Italy, and in some of the towns in
England. I was told that there is a manuscript account of St Andrews,
by Martin, secretary to Archbishop Sharp; and that one Douglas has
published a small account of it. I inquired at a bookseller's, but
could not get it. Dr Johnson's veneration for the Hierarchy is well
known. There is no wonder then, that he was affected with a strong
indignation, while he beheld the ruins of religious magnificence. I
happened to ask where John Knox was buried. Dr Johnson burst out, 'I
hope in the high-way. I have been looking at his reformations.'
It was a very fine day. Dr Johnson seemed quite wrapt up in the
contemplation of the scenes which were now presented to him. He kept
his hat off while he was upon any part of the ground where the
cathedral had stood. He said well, that 'Knox had set on a mob,
without knowing where it would end; and that differing from a man in
doctrine was no reason why you should pull his house about his ears'.
As we walked in the cloisters, there was a solemn echo, while he
talked loudly of a proper retirement from the world. Mr Nairne said,
he had an inclination to retire. I called Dr Johnson's attention to
this, that I might hear his opinion if it was right. JOHNSON. 'Yes,
when he has done his duty to society. In general, as every man is
obliged not only to "love God, but his neighbour as himself", he must
bear his part in active life; yet there are exceptions. Those who are
exceedingly scrupulous (which I do not approve, for I am no friend to
scruples), and find their scrupulosity invincible, so that they are
quite in the dark, and know not what they shall do, or those who can
not resist temptations, and find they make themselves worse by being
in the world, without making it better, may retire. I never read of a
hermit, but in imagination I kiss his feet; never of a monastery, but
I could fall on my knees, and kiss the pavement. But I think putting
young people there, who know nothing of life, nothing of retirement,
is dangerous and wicked. It is a saying as old as Hesiod,
[words in Greek] [Footnote: Let youth in deeds, in counsel man engage;
Prayer is the proper duty of old age. ]
That is a very noble line: not that young men should not pray, or old
men not give counsel, but that every season of life has its proper
duties. I have thought of retiring, and have talked of it to a friend;
but I find my vocation is rather to active life.' I said, SOME young
monks might be allowed, to shew that it is not age alone that can
retire to pious solitude; but he thought this would only shew that
they could not resist temptation.
He wanted to mount the steeples, but it could not be done. There are
no good inscriptions here. Bad Roman characters he naturally mistook
for half Gothick, half Roman. One of the steeples, which he was told
was in danger, he wished not to be taken down; 'for,' said he, 'it may
fall on some of the posterity of John Knox; and no great matter!'
Dinner was mentioned. JOHNSON. 'Ay, ay; amidst all these sorrowful
scenes, I have no objection to dinner.'
We went and looked at the castle, where Cardinal Beaton was murdered,
and then visited Principal Murison at his college, where is a good
library-room; but the principal was abundantly vain of it, for he
seriously said to Dr Johnson, 'you have not such a one in England'.
The professors entertained us with a very good dinner. Present:
Murison, Shaw, Cooke, Hill, Haddo, Watson, Flint, Brown. I observed,
that I wondered to see him eat so well, after viewing so many
sorrowful scenes of ruined religious magnificence. 'Why,' said he, 'I
am not sorry, after seeing these gentlemen; for they are not sorry.'
Murison said, all sorrow was bad, as it was murmuring against the
dispensations of Providence. JOHNSON. 'Sir, sorrow is inherent in
humanity. As you cannot judge two and two to be either five, or three,
but certainly four, so, when comparing a worse present state with a
better which is past, you cannot but feel sorrow. It is not cured by
reason, but by the incursion of present objects, which wear out the
past. You need not murmur, though you are sorry.' MURISON. 'But St
Paul says, "I have learnt, in whatever state I am, therewith to be
content." 'JOHNSON. 'Sir, that relates to riches and poverty; for we
see St Paul, when he had a thorn in the flesh, prayed earnestly to
have it removed; and then he could not be content.' Murison, thus
refuted, tried to be smart, and drank to Dr Johnson, 'Long may you
lecture!' Dr Johnson afterwards, speaking of his not drinking wine,
said, 'The Doctor spoke of lecturing' (looking to him). 'I give all
these lectures on water.'
He defended requiring subscription in those admitted to universities,
thus: 'As all who come into the country must obey the King, so all who
come into an university must be of the Church.'
And here I must do Dr Johnson the justice to contradict a very absurd
and ill-natured story, as to what passed at St Andrews. It has been
circulated, that, after grace was said in English, in the usual
manner, he with the greatest marks of contempt, as if he had held it
to be no grace in an university, would not sit down till he had said
grace aloud in Latin. This would have been an insult indeed to the
gentlemen who were entertaining us. But the truth was precisely thus.
In the course of conversation at dinner, Dr Johnson, in very good
humour, said, 'I should have expected to have heard a Latin grace,
among so many learned men: we had always a Latin grace at Oxford. I
believe I can repeat it.' Which he did, as giving the learned men in
one place a specimen of what was done by the learned men in another
place.
We went and saw the church, in which is Archbishop Sharp's monument. I
was struck with the same kind of feelings with which the churches of
Italy impressed me. I was much pleased, to see Dr Johnson actually in
St Andrews, of which we had talked so long. Professor Haddo was with
us this afternoon, along with Dr Watson. We looked at St Salvador's
College. The rooms for students seemed very commodious, and Dr Johnson
said, the chapel was the neatest place of worship he had seen. The key
of the library could not be found; for it seems Professor Hill, who
was out of town, had taken it with him. Dr Johnson told a joke he had
heard of a monastery abroad, where the key of the library could never
be found.
It was somewhat dispiriting, to see this ancient archiepiscopal city
now sadly deserted. We saw in one of its streets a remarkable proof of
liberal toleration; a nonjuring clergyman, strutting about in his
canonicals, with a jolly countenance and a round belly, like a
well-fed monk.
We observed two occupations united in the same person, who had hung
out two sign-posts. Upon one was, JAMES HOOD, WHITE IRON SMITH (i.e.
tin-plate worker). Upon another, THE ART OF FENCING TAUGHT, BY JAMES
HOOD. Upon this last were painted some trees, and two men fencing, one
of whom had hit the other in the eye, to shew his great dexterity; so
that the art was well taught. JOHNSON. 'Were I studying here, I should
go and take a lesson. I remember Hope, in his book on this art, says,
"the Scotch are very good fencers".'
We returned to the inn, where we had been entertained at dinner, and
drank tea in company with some of the professors, of whose civilities
I beg leave to add my humble and very grateful acknowledgement to the
honourable testimony of Dr Johnson, in his Journey.
We talked of composition, which was a favourite topick of Dr Watson's,
who first distinguished himself by lectures on rhetorick. JOHNSON. 'I
advised Chambers, and would advise every young man beginning to
compose, to do it as fast as he can, to get a habit of having his mind
to start promptly; it is so much more difficult to improve in speed
than in accuracy.' WATSON. 'I own I am for much attention to accuracy
in composing, lest one should get bad habits of doing it in a slovenly
manner.' JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, you are confounding DOING inaccurately
with the NECESSITY of doing inaccurately. A man knows when his
composition is inaccurate, and when he thinks fit he'll correct it.
But, if a man is accustomed to compose slowly, and with difficulty,
upon all occasions, there is danger that he may not compose at all, as
we do not like to do that which is not done easily; and, at any rate,
more time is consumed in a small matter than ought to be.' WATSON. 'Dr
Hugh Blair has taken a week to compose a sermon.' JOHNSON. 'Then, sir,
that is for want of the habit of composing quickly, which I am
insisting one should acquire.' WATSON. 'Blair was not composing all
the week, but only such hours as he found himself disposed for
composition.' JOHNSON. 'Nay, sir, unless you tell me the time he took,
you tell me nothing. If I say I took a week to walk a mile, and have
had the gout five days, and been ill otherwise another day, I have
taken but one day. I myself have composed about forty sermons. I have
begun a sermon after dinner, and sent it off by the post that night. I
wrote forty-eight of the printed octavo pages of the life of Savage at
a sitting; but then I sat up all night. I have also written six sheets
in a day of translation from the French.' BOSWELL. 'We have all
observed how one man dresses himself slowly, and another fast.'
JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; it is wonderful how much time some people will
consume in dressing; taking up a thing and looking at it, and laying
it down, and taking it up again. Every one should get the habit of
doing it quickly. I would say to a young divine, "Here is your text;
let me see how soon you can make a sermon." Then I'd say, "Let me see
how much better you can make it." Thus I should see both his powers
and his judgement.'
We all went to Dr Watson's to supper. Miss Sharp, great grandchild of
Archbishop Sharp, was there; as was Mr Craig, the ingenious architect
of the new town of Edinburgh, and nephew of Thomson, to whom Dr
Johnson has since done so much justice, in his Lives of the Poets.
We talked of memory, and its various modes. JOHNSON. 'Memory will play
strange tricks. One sometimes loses a single word. I once lost fugaces
in the Ode Posthume, Posthume. I mentioned to him, that a worthy
gentleman of my acquaintance actually forgot his own name. JOHNSON.
'Sir. that was a morbid oblivion.'
Friday, 2Oth August
Dr Shaw, the professor of divinity, breakfasted with us. I took out my
Ogden On Prayer, and read some of it to the company. Dr Johnson
praised him. 'Abernethy,' said he, 'allows only of a physical effect
of prayer upon the mind, which may be produced many ways, as well as
by prayer; for instance, by meditation. Ogden goes farther. In truth,
we have the consent of all nations for the efficacy of prayer, whether
offered up by individuals, or by assemblies; and Revelation has told
us, it will be effectual.' I said, 'Leechman seemed to incline to
Abernethy's doctrine.' Dr Watson observed, that Leechman meant to
shew, that, even admitting no effect to be produced by prayer,
respecting the Deity, it was useful to our own minds. He had given
only a part of his system: Dr Johnson thought he should have given the
whole.
Dr Johnson enforced the strict observance of Sunday. 'It should be
different,' he observed, 'from another day. People may walk, but not
throw stones at birds. There may be relaxation, but there should be no
levity.'
We went and saw Colonel Nairne's garden and grotto. Here was a fine
old plane tree. Unluckily the colonel said, there was but this and
another large tree in the county. This assertion was an excellent cue
for Dr Johnson, who laughed enormously, calling to me to hear it. He
had expatiated to me on the nakedness of that part of Scotland which
he had seen. His Journey has been violently abused, for what he has
said upon this subject. But let it be considered, that, when Dr
Johnson talks of trees, he means trees of good size, such as he was
accustomed to see in England; and of these there are certainly very
few upon the EASTERN COAST of Scotland. Besides, he said, that he
meant to give only a map of the road; and let any traveller observe
how many trees, which deserve the name, he can see from the road from
Berwick to Aberdeen. Had Dr Johnson said, 'there are NO trees' upon
this line, he would have said what is colloquially true; because, by
no trees, in common speech, we mean few. When he is particular in
counting, he may be attacked. I know not how Colonel Nairne came to
say there were but TWO large trees in the county of Fife. I did not
perceive that he smiled. There are certainly not a great many; but I
could have shewn him more than two at Balmuto, from whence my
ancestors came, and which now belongs to a branch of my family.
The grotto was ingeniously constructed. In the front of it were
petrified stocks of fir, plane, and some other tree. Dr Johnson said,
'Scotland has no right to boast of this grotto: it is owing to
personal merit. I never denied personal merit to many of you.'
Professor Shaw said to me, as we walked, 'This is a wonderful man: he
is master of every subject he handles.' Dr Watson allowed him a very
strong understanding, but wondered at his total inattention to
established manners, as he came from London.
I have not preserved, in my Journal, any of the conversation which
passed between Dr Johnson and Professor Shaw; but I recollect Dr
Johnson said to me afterwards, 'I took much to Shaw.'
We left St Andrews about noon, and some miles from it observing, at
Leuchars, a church with an old tower, we stopped to look at it. The
manse, as the parsonage-house is called in Scotland, was close by. I
waited on the minister, mentioned our names, and begged he would tell
us what he knew about it. He was a very civil old man; but could only
inform us, that it was supposed to have stood eight hundred years. He
told us, there was a colony of Danes in his parish; that they had
landed at a remote period of time, and still remained a distinct
people. Dr Johnson shrewdly inquired whether they had brought women
with them. We were not satisfied as to this colony.
We saw, this day, Dundee and Aberbrothick, the last of which Dr
Johnson has celebrated in his Journey. Upon the road we talked of the
Roman Catholick faith. He mentioned (I think) Tillotson's argument
against transubstantiation; 'That we are as sure we see bread and wine
only, as that we read in the Bible the text on which that false
doctrine is founded. We have only the evidence of our senses for both.
If,' he added, 'God had never spoken figuratively, we might hold that
he speaks literally, when he says, "This is my body".' BOSWELL. 'But
what do you say, sir, to the ancient and continued tradition of the
Church upon this point?' JOHNSON. 'Tradition, sir, has no place, where
the Scriptures are plain; and tradition cannot persuade a man into a
belief of transubstantiation. Able men, indeed, have said they
believed it.'
This is an awful subject. I did not then press Dr Johnson upon it; nor
shall I now enter upon a disquisition concerning the import of those
words uttered by our Saviour,[Footnote: "Then Jesus said unto them,
verily, verily. I say unto you, except ye eat the flesh of the son of
man, and drink his blood, ye have no life in you." See St John's
Gospel, chap. vi. 5 3, and following verses.] which had such an effect
upon many disciples, that they 'went back, and walked no more with
him'. The Catechism and solemn office for Communion, in the Church of
England, maintain a mysterious belief in more than a mere
commemoration of the death of Christ, by partaking of the elements of
bread and wine.
Dr Johnson put me in mind, that, at St Andrews, I had defended my
profession very well, when the question had again been started,
whether a lawyer might honestly engage with the first side that offers
him a fee. 'Sir,' said I, 'it was with your arguments against Sir
William Forbes: but it was much that I could wield the arms of
Goliah.'
He said, our judges had not gone deep in the question concerning
literary property. I mentioned Lord Monboddo's opinion, that if a man
could get a work by heart, he might print it, as by such an act the
mind is exercised. JOHNSON. 'No, sir; a man's repeating it no more
makes it his property, than a man may sell a cow which he drives
home.' I said, printing an abridgement of a work was allowed, which
was only cutting the horns and tail off the cow. JOHNSON. 'No, sir;
'tis making the cow have a calf.'
About eleven at night we arrived at Montrose. We found but a sorry
inn, where I myself saw another waiter put a lump of sugar with his
fingers into Dr Johnson's lemonade, for which he called him 'Rascal!'
It put me in great glee that our landlord was an Englishman. I rallied
the Doctor upon this, and he grew quiet. Both Sir John Hawkins's and
Dr Burney's History of Musick had then been advertised. I asked if
this was not unlucky: would not they hurt one another? JOHNSON. 'No,
sir. They will do good to one another. Some will buy the one, some the
other, and compare them; and so a talk is made about a thing, and the
books are sold.'
He was angry at me for proposing to carry lemons with us to Sky, that
he might be sure to have his lemonade. 'Sir,' said he, 'I do not wish
to be thought that feeble man who cannot do without any thing. Sir, it
is very bad manners to carry provisions to any man's house, as if he
could not entertain you. To an inferior, it is oppressive; to a
superior, it is insolent.'
Having taken the liberty, this evening, to remark to Dr Johnson, that
he very often sat quite silent for a long time, even when in company
with only a single friend, which I myself had sometimes sadly
experienced, he smiled and said, 'It is true, sir. Tom Tyers' (for so
he familiarly called our ingenious friend, who, since his death, has
paid a biographical tribute to his memory) 'Tom Tyers described me the
best. He once said to me, "Sir, you are like a ghost: you never speak
till you are spoken to" [Footnote: This description of Dr Johnson,
appears to have been borrowed from Tom Jones, Book XI. chap, ii. "The
other, who like a ghost, only wanted to be spoke to, readily
answered.' &c.
Saturday, 21st August
Neither the Rev. Mr Nisbet, the established minister, nor the Rev. Mr
Spooner, the episcopal minister, were in town. Before breakfast, we
went and saw the town-hall, where is a good dancing-room, and other
rooms for tea-drinking. The appearance of the town from it is very
well; but many of the houses are built with their ends to the street,
which looks awkward. When we came down from it, I met Mr Gleg, a
merchant here. He went with us to see the English chapel. It is
situated on a pretty dry spot, and there is a fine walk to it. It is
really an elegant building, both within and without. The organ is
adorned with green and gold. Dr Johnson gave a shilling extraordinary
to the clerk, saying, 'He belongs to an honest church.' I put him in
mind, that episcopals were but DISSENTERS here; they were only
TOLERATED. 'Sir,' said he, 'we are here, as Christians in Turkey.' He
afterwards went into an apothecary's shop, and ordered some medicine
for himself, and wrote the prescription in technical characters. The
boy took him for a physician.
I doubted much which road to take, whether to go by the coast, or by
Lawrence Kirk and Monboddo. I knew Lord Monboddo and Dr Johnson did
not love each other: yet I was unwilling not to visit his lordship;
and was also curious to see them together. [Footnote: There were
several points of similarity between them: learning, clearness of
head, precision of speech, and a love of research on many subjects
which people in general do not investigate. Foote paid Lord Monboddo
the compliment of saying, that he was 'an Elzevir edition of Johnson'.
It has been shrewdly observed that Foote must have meant a diminutive,
or POCKET edition.] I mentioned my doubts to Dr Johnson, who said, he
would go two miles out of his way to see Lord Monboddo. I therefore
sent Joseph forward, with the following note.
Montrose, 21 August.
My dear Lord,
Thus far I am come with Mr Samuel Johnson. We must be at Aberdeen
to-night. I know you do not admire him so much as I do; but I cannot
be in this country without making you a bow at your old place, as I do
not know if I may again have an opportunity of seeing Monboddo.
Besides, Mr Johnson says, he would go two miles out of his way to see
Lord Monboddo. I have sent forward my servant, that we may know if
your lordship be at home. I am ever, my dear lord,
Most sincerely yours,
James Boswell.
As we travelled onwards from Montrose, we had the Grampion hills in
our view, and some good land around us, but void of trees and hedges.
Dr Johnson has said ludicrously, in his Journey, that the HEDGES were
of STONE; for, instead of the verdant THORN to refresh the eye, we
found the bare WALL or DIKE intersecting the prospect. He observed,
that it was wonderful to see a country so divested, so denuded of
trees.
We stopped at Lawrence Kirk, where our great grammarian, Ruddiman, was
once schoolmaster. We respectfully remembered that excellent man and
eminent scholar, by whose labours a knowledge of the Latin language
will be preserved in Scotland, if it shall be preserved at all. Lord
Gardenston, one of our judges, collected money to raise a monument to
him at this place, which I hope will be well executed. I know my
father gave five guineas towards it. Lord Gardenston is the proprietor
of Lawrence Kirk, and has encouraged the building of a manufacturing
village, of which he is exceedingly fond, and has written a pamphlet
upon it, as if he had founded Thebes, in which, however there are many
useful precepts strongly expressed. The village seemed to be
irregularly built, some of the houses being of clay, some of brick,
and some of brick and stone. Dr Johnson observed, they thatched well
here.
I was a little acquainted with Mr Forbes, the minister of the parish.
I sent to inform him that a gentleman desired to see him. He returned
for answer, 'that he would not come to a stranger'. I then gave my
name, and he came. I remonstrated to him for not coming to a stranger;
and, by presenting him to Dr Johnson, proved to him what a stranger
might sometimes be. His Bible inculcates 'be not forgetful to
entertain strangers', and mentions the same motive. He defended
himself by saying, he had once come to a stranger who sent for him;
and he found him 'a little worth person!'
Dr Johnson insisted on stopping at the inn, as I told him that Lord
Gardenston had furnished it with a collection of books, that
travellers might have entertainment for the mind, as well as the body.
He praised the design, but wished there had been more books, and those
better chosen.
About a mile from Monboddo, where you turn off the road, Joseph was
waiting to tell us my lord expected us to dinner. We drove over a wild
moor. It rained, and the scene was somewhat dreary. Dr Johnson
repeated, with solemn emphasis, Macbeth's speech on meeting the
witches. As we travelled on, he told me, 'Sir, you got into our club
by doing what a man can do. [Footnote: This, I find, is considered as
obscure. I suppose Dr Johnson meant, that I assiduously and earnestly
recommended myself to some of the members, as in a canvass for an
election into Parliament.] Several of the members wished to keep you
out. Burke told me, he doubted if you were fit for it: but, now you
are in, none of them are sorry. Burke says, that you have so much good
humour naturally, it is scarce a virtue.' BOSWELL. 'They were afraid
of you, sir, as it was you who proposed me.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, they knew,
that if they refused you, they'd probably never have got in another.
I'd have kept them all out. Beauclerk was very earnest for you.'
BOSWELL. 'Beauclerk has a keenness of mind which is very uncommon.'
JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; and every thing comes from him so easily. It
appears to me that I labour, when I say a good thing.' BOSWELL. 'You
are loud, sir; but it is not an effort of mind.'
Monboddo is a wretched place, wild and naked, with a poor old house;
though, if I recollect right, there are two turrets which mark an old
baron's residence. Lord Monboddo received us at his gate most
courteously; pointed to the Douglas arms upon his house, and told us
that his great-grandmother was of that family, 'In such houses,' said
he, 'our ancestors lived, who were better men than we.' 'No, no, my
lord,' said Dr Johnson. 'We are as strong as they, and a great deal
wiser.' This was an assault upon one of Lord Monboddo's capital
dogmas, and I was afraid there would have been a violent altercation
in the very close, before we got into the house. But his lordship is
distinguished not only for 'ancient metaphysicks', but for ancient
politesse, la vieille cour, and he made no reply.
His lordship was drest in a rustick suit, and wore a little round hat;
he told us, we now saw him as Farmer Burnett, and we should have his
family dinner, a farmer's dinner. He said, 'I should not have forgiven
Mr Boswell, had he not brought you here, Dr Johnson.' He produced a
very long stalk of corn, as a specimen of his crop, and said, 'You see
here the loetas segetes.' He added, that Virgil seemed to be as
enthusiastick a farmer as he, and was certainly a practical one.
JOHNSON. 'It does not always follow, my lord, that a man who has
written a good poem on an art, has practised it. Philip Miller told
me, that in Philips's "Cyder", a poem, all the precepts were just, and
indeed better than in books written for the purpose of instructing;
yet Philips had never made cyder.'
I started the subject of emigration. JOHNSON. 'To a man of mere animal
life, you can urge no argument against going to America, but that it
will be some time before he will get the earth to produce. But a man
of any intellectual enjoyment will not easily go and immerse himself
and his posterity for ages in barbarism.'
He and my lord spoke highly of Homer. JOHNSON. 'He had all the
learning of his age. The shield of Achilles shews a nation in war, a
nation in peace; harvest sport, nay stealing.' [Footnote: My note of
this is much too short. Brevis esse laboro, obscurus fio. Yet as I
have resolved that THE VERY Journal WHICH DR JOHNSON READ, shall be
presented to the publick, I will not expand the text in any
considerable degree, though I may occasionally supply a word to
complete the sense, as I fill up the blanks of abbreviation in the
writing; neither of which can be said to change the genuine Journal.
One of the best criticks of our age conjectures that the imperfect
passage above has probably been as follows: 'In his book we have an
accurate display of a nation in war, and a nation in peace; the
peasant is delineated as truly as the general; nay, even
harvest-sport, and the modes of ancient theft are described.']
MONBODDO. 'Ay, and what we' (looking to me)?'would call a
parliament-house scene; a cause pleaded.' JOHNSON. 'That is part of
the life of a nation in peace. And there are in Homer such characters
of heroes, and combinations of qualities of heroes, that the united
powers of mankind ever since have not produced any but what are to be
found there.' MONBODDO. 'Yet no character is described.' JOHNSON. 'No;
they all develope themselves. Agamemnon is always a gentleman-like
character; he has always <Greek>. That the ancients held so, is plain
from this; that Euripides, in his Hecuba, makes him the person to
interpose.' [Footnote: Dr Johnson modestly said, he had not read Homer
so much as he wished he had done. But this conversation shews how well
he was acquainted with the Moeonian bard; and he has shewn it still
more in his criticism upon Pope's Homer, in his Life of that poet. My
excellent friend, Mr Langton, told me, he was once present at a
dispute between Dr Johnson and Mr Burke, on the comparative merits of
Homer and Virgil, which was carried on with extraordinary abilities on
both sides. Dr Johnson maintained the superiority of Homer.] MONBODDO.
'The history of manners is the most valuable. I never set a high value
on any other history.' JOHNSON. 'Nor I; and therefore I esteem
biography, as giving us what comes near to ourselves, what we can turn
to use.' BOSWELL. 'But in the course of general history, we find
manners. In wars, we see the dispositions of people, their degrees of
humanity, and other particulars.' JOHNSON. 'Yes; but then you must
take all the facts to get this; and it is but a little you get.'
MONBODDO. 'And it is that little which makes history valuable.' Bravo!
thought I; they agree like two brothers. MONBODDO. 'I am sorry, Dr
Johnson, you were not longer at Edinburgh, to receive the homage of
our men of learning.' JOHNSON. 'My lord, I received great respect and
great kindness.' BOSWELL. 'He goes back to Edinburgh after our tour.'
We talked of the decrease of learning in Scotland, and the Muses'
Welcome. JOHNSON. 'Learning is much decreased in England, in my
remembrance.' MONBODDO. 'You, sir, have lived to see its decrease in
England, I its extinction in Scotland.' However, I brought him to
confess that the High School of Edinburgh did well. JOHNSON. 'Learning
has decreased in England, because learning will not do so much for a
man as formerly. There are other ways of getting preferment. Few
bishops are now made for their learning. To be a bishop, a man must be
learned in a learned age, factious in a factious age; but always of
eminence. Warburton is an exception; though his learning alone did not
raise him. He was first an antagonist to Pope, and helped Theobald to
publish his Shakspeare; but, seeing Pope the rising man, when Crousaz
attacked his Essay on Man, for some faults which it has, and some
which it has not, Warburton defended it in the Review of that time.
This brought him acquainted with Pope, and he gained his friendship.
Pope introduced him to Allen, Allen married him to his niece: so, by
Allen's interest and his own, he was made a bishop. But then his
learning was the sine qua non: he knew how to make the most of it; but
I do not find by any dishonest means.' MONBODDO. 'He is a great man.'
JOHNSON. 'Yes; he has great knowledge, great power of mind. Hardly any
man brings greater variety of learning to bear upon his point.'
MONBODDO. 'He is one of the greatest lights of your church.' JOHNSON.
'Why, we are not so sure of his being very friendly to us. He blazes,
if you will, but that is not always the steadiest light. Lowth is
another bishop who has risen by his learning.'
Dr Johnson examined young Arthur, Lord Monboddo's son, in Latin. He
answered very well; upon which he said, with complacency, 'Get you
gone! When King James comes back, [Footnote: I find, some doubt has
been entertained concerning Dr Johnson's meaning here. It is to be
supposed that he meant, 'when a king shall again be entertained in
Scotland'.] you shall be in the "Muses' Welcome"!' My lord and Dr
Johnson disputed a little, whether the savage or the London shopkeeper
had the best existence; his lordship, as usual, preferring the savage.
My lord was extremely hospitable, and I saw both Dr Johnson and him
liking each other better every hour.
Dr Johnson having retired for a short time, his lordship spoke of his
conversation as I could have wished. Dr Johnson had said, 'I have done
greater feats with my knife than this;' though he had eaten a very
hearty dinner. My lord, who affects or believes he follows an
abstemious system, seemed struck with Dr Johnson's manner of living. I
had a particular satisfaction in being under the roof of Monboddo, my
lord being my father's old friend, and having been always very good to
me. We were cordial together. He asked Dr Johnson and me to stay all
night. When I said we must be at Aberdeen, he replied, 'Well, I am
like the Romans: I shall say to you, "Happy to come--happy to
depart!"' He thanked Dr Johnson for his visit. JOHNSON. 'I little
thought, when I had the honour to meet your lordship in London, that I
should see you at Monboddo.' After dinner, as the ladies were going
away, Dr Johnson would stand up. He insisted that politeness was of
great consequence in society. 'It is,' said he, 'fictitious
benevolence. It supplies the place of it amongst those who see each
other only in publick, or but little. Depend upon it, the want of it
never fails to produce something disagreeable to one or other. I have
always applied to good breeding, what Addison in his Cato says of
honour:
Honour's a sacred tie; the law of Kings;
The noble mind's distinguishing perfection,
That aids and strengthens Virtue where it meets her.
And imitates her actions where she is not.
When he took up his large oak stick, he said, 'My lord, that's
Homerick;' thus pleasantly alluding to his lordship's favourite
writer.
Gory, my lord's black servant, was sent as our guide, to conduct us to
the high road. The circumstance of each of them having a black servant
was another point of similarity between Johnson and Monboddo. I
observed how curious it was to see an African in the north of
Scotland, with little or no difference of manners from those of the
natives. Dr Johnson laughed to see Gory and Joseph riding together
most cordially. 'Those two fellows,' said he, 'one from Africa, the
other from Bohemia, seem quite at home.' He was much pleased with Lord
Monboddo to-day. He said, he would have pardoned him for a few
paradoxes, when he found he had so much that was good: but that, from
his appearance in London, he thought him all paradox; which would not
do. He observed, that his lordship had talked no paradoxes to-day.
'And as to the savage and the London shopkeeper," said he, 'I don't
know but I might have taken the side of the savage equally, had any
body else taken the side of the shopkeeper.' He had said to my lord,
in opposition to the value of the savage's courage, that it was owing
to his limited power of thinking, and repeated Pope's verses, in which
'Macedonia's madman' is introduced, and the conclusion is,
Yet ne'er looks forward farther than his nose.
I objected to the last phrase, as being low. JOHNSON. 'Sir, it is
intended to be low: it is satire. The expression is debased, to debase
the character.'
When Gory was about to part from us, Dr Johnson called to him, 'Mr
Gory, give me leave to ask you a question! Are you baptized?' Gory
told him he was, and confirmed by the Bishop of Durham. He then gave
him a shilling.
We had tedious driving this afternoon, and were somewhat drowsy. Last
night I was afraid Dr Johnson was beginning to faint in his
resolution; for he said, 'If we must ride much, we shall not go; and
there's an end on't.' To-day, when he talked of Sky with spirit, I
said, 'Why, sir, you seemed to me to despond yesterday. You are a
delicate Londoner; you are a maccaroni; you can't ride.' JOHNSON.
'Sir, I shall ride better than you. I was only afraid I should not
find a horse able to carry me.' I hoped then there would be no fear of
getting through our wild tour.
We came to Aberdeen at half an hour past eleven. The New Inn, we were
told, was full. This was comfortless. The waiter, however, asked if
one of our names was Boswell, and brought me a letter left at the inn:
it was from Mr Thrale, enclosing one to Dr Johnson. Finding who I was,
we were told they would contrive to lodge us by putting us for a night
into a room with two beds. The waiter said to me in the broad strong
Aberdeenshire dialect, 'I thought I knew you, by your likeness to your
father.' My father puts up at the New Inn, when on his circuit. Little
was said to-night. I was to sleep in a little press-bed in Dr
Johnson's room. I had it wheeled out into the dining-room, and there
I lay very well.
Sunday, 22d August
I sent a message to Professor Thomas Gordon, who came and breakfasted
with us. He had secured seats for us at the English chapel. We found a
respectable congregation, and an admirable organ, well played by Mr
Tait.
We walked down to the shore. Dr Johnson laughed to hear that
Cromwell's soldiers taught the Aberdeen people to make shoes and
stockings, and to plant cabbages. He asked, if weaving the plaids was
ever a domestick art in the Highlands, like spinning or knitting. They
could not inform him here. But he conjectured probably, that where
people lived so remote from each other, it was likely to be a
domestick art; as we see it was among the ancients, from Penelope. I
was sensible to-day, to an extraordinary degree, of Dr Johnson's
excellent English pronunciation. I cannot account for its striking me
more now than any other day: but it was as if new to me; and I
listened to every sentence which he spoke, as to a musical
composition. Professor Gordon gave him an account of the plan of
education in his college. Dr Johnson said, it was similar to that at
Oxford. Waller the poet's great grandson was studying here. Dr Johnson
wondered that a man should send his son so far off, when there were so
many good schools in England. He said, 'At a great school there is all
the splendour and illumination of many minds; the radiance of all is
concentrated in each, or at least reflected upon each. But we must own
that neither a dull boy, nor an idle boy, will do so well at a great
school as at a private one. For at a great school there are always
boys enough to do well easily, who are sufficient to keep up the
credit of the school; and after whipping being tried to no purpose,
the dull or idle boys are left at the end of a class, having the
appearance of going through the course, but learning nothing at all.
Such boys may do good at a private school, where constant attention is
paid to them, and they are watched. So that the question of publick or
private education is not properly a general one; but whether one or
the other is best for MY SON.'
We were told the present Mr Waller was a plain country gentleman; and
his son would be such another. I observed, a family could not expect a
poet but in a hundred generations. 'Nay,' said Dr Johnson, 'not one
family in a hundred can expect a poet in a hundred generations.' He
then repeated Dryden's celebrated lines,
Three poets in three distant ages born, &c.
and a part of a Latin translation of it done at Oxford: he did not
then say by whom.[Footnote: London, 2d May, 1778. Dr Johnson
acknowledged that he was himself the authour of the translation above
alluded to, and dictated it to me as follows:
Quos laudet vales Graius Romanus et Anglus
Tres tria temporibus secla dedere suis.
Sublime ingenium Graius; Romanus habebat
Carmen grande sonans; Anglus utrumque tulit.
Nil majus Natura capit: clarare priores
Quae potuere duos tertius unus habet.]
He received a card, from Sir Alexander Gordon, who had been his
acquaintance twenty years ago in London, and who, 'if forgiven for not
answering a line from him', would come in the afternoon. Dr Johnson
rejoiced to hear of him, and begged he would come and dine with us. I
was much pleased to see the kindness with which Dr Johnson received
his old friend Sir Alexander; a gentleman of good family, Lismore, but
who had not the estate. The King's College here made him Professor of
Medicine, which affords him a decent subsistence. He told us that the
value of the stockings exported from Aberdeen was, in peace, a hundred
thousand pounds; and amounted, in time of war, to one hundred and
seventy thousand pounds. Dr Johnson asked, what made the difference?
Here we had a proof of the comparative sagacity of the two professors.
Sir Alexander answered, 'Because there is more occasion for them in
war.' Professor Thomas Gordon answered, 'Because the Germans, who are
our great rivals in the manufacture of stockings, are otherwise
employed in time of war.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, you have given a very good
solution.'
At dinner, Dr Johnson ate several plate-fulls of Scotch broth, with
barley and peas in it, and seemed very fond of the dish. I said, 'You
never ate it before.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir; but I don't care how soon I
eat it again.' My cousin, Miss Dallas, formerly of Inverness, was
married to Mr Riddoch, one of the ministers of the English chapel
here. He was ill, and confined to his room; but she sent us a kind
invitation to tea, which we all accepted. She was the same lively,
sensible, cheerful woman, as ever. Dr Johnson here threw out some
jokes against Scotland. He said, 'You go first to Aberdeen; then to
Enbru (the Scottish pronunciation of Edinburgh); then to Newcastle, to
be polished by the colliers; then to York; then to London.' And he
laid hold of a little girl, Stuart Dallas, niece to Mrs Riddoch, and,
representing himself as a giant, said, he would take her with him!
telling her, in a hollow voice, that he lived in a cave, and had a bed
in the rock, and she should have a bed cut opposite to it!
He thus treated the point, as to prescription of murder in Scotland.
'A jury in England would make allowance for deficiencies of evidence,
on account of lapse of time: but a general rule that a crime should
not be punished, or tried for the purpose of punishment, after twenty
years, is bad. It is cant to talk of the King's advocate delaying a
prosecution from malice. How unlikely is it the King's advocate should
have malice against persons who commit murder, or should even know
them at all. If the son of the murdered man should kill the murderer
who got off merely by prescription, I would help him to make his
escape; though, were I upon his jury, I would not acquit him. I would
not advise him to commit such an act. On the contrary, I would bid him
submit to the determination of society, because a man is bound to
submit to the inconveniences of it, as he enjoys the good: but the
young man, though politically wrong, would not be morally wrong. He
would have to say, "Here I am amongst barbarians, who not only refuse
to do justice, but encourage the greatest of all crimes. I am
therefore in a state of nature: for, so far as there is now law, it is
a state of nature: and consequently, upon the eternal and immutable
law of justice, which requires that he who sheds man's blood should
have his blood shed, I will stab the murderer of my father."' We went
to our inn, and sat quietly. Dr Johnson borrowed, at Mr Riddoch's, a
volume of Massilon's Discourses on the Psalms: but I found he read
little in it. Ogden too he sometimes took up, and glanced at; but
threw it down again. I then entered upon religious conversation. Never
did I see him in a better frame: calm, gentle, wise, holy. I said,
'Would not the same objection hold against the Trinity as against
transubstantiation?' 'Yes,' said he, 'if you take three and one in the
same sense. If you do, to be sure you cannot believe it: but the three
persons in the Godhead are Three in one sense, and One in another. We
cannot tell how; and that is the mystery!'
I spoke of the satisfaction of Christ. He said his notion was, that it
did not atone for the sins of the world; but, by satisfying divine
justice, by shewing that no less than the Son of God suffered for sin,
it shewed to men and innumerable created beings, the heinousness of
it, and therefore rendered it unnecessary for divine vengeance to be
exercised against sinners, as it otherwise must have been; that in
this way it might operate even in favour of those who had never heard
of it: as to those who did hear of it, the effect it should produce
would be repentance and piety, by impressing upon the mind a just
notion of sin: that original sin was the propensity to evil, which no
doubt was occasioned by the fall. He presented this solemn subject in
a new light to me, [Footnote: My worthy, intelligent, and candid
friend, Dr Kippis, informs me, that several divines have thus
explained the mediation of our Saviour. What Dr Johnson now delivered,
was but a temporary opinion; for he afterwards was fully convinced of
the propitiatory sacrifice, as I shall shew at large in my future
work, The life of Samuel Johnson, LL.D.] and rendered much more
rational and clear the doctrine of what our Saviour has done for us,
as it removed the notion of imputed righteousness in co-operating;
whereas by this view, Christ has done all already that he had to do,
or is ever to do, for mankind, by making his great satisfaction; the
consequences of which will affect each individual according to the
particular conduct of each. I would illustrate this by saying, that
Christ's satisfaction resembles a sun placed to shew light to men, so
that it depends upon themselves whether they will walk the right way
or not, which they could not have done without that sun, 'the sun of
righteousness'. There is, however, more in it than merely giving
light--'a light to lighten the Gentiles': for we are told, there is
'healing under his wings'. Dr Johnson said to me, 'Richard Baxter
commends a treatise by Grotius, De Satisfactione Christi. I have never
read it: but I intend to read it; and you may read it.' I remarked,
upon the principle now laid down, we might explain the difficult and
seemingly hard text, 'They that believe shall be saved; and they that
believe not shall be damned.' They that believe shall have such an
impression made upon their minds, as will make them act so that they
may be accepted by God.
We talked of one of our friends taking ill, for a length of time, a
hasty expression of Dr Johnson's to him, on his attempting to
prosecute a subject that had a reference to religion, beyond the
bounds within which the Doctor thought such topicks should be confined
in a mixed company. JOHNSON. 'What is to become of society, if a
friendship of twenty years is to be broken off for such a cause?' As
Bacon says,
Who then to frail mortality shall trust,
But limns the water, or but writes in dust.
I said, he should write expressly in support of Christianity; for
that, although a reverence for it shines through his works in several
places, that is not enough. 'You know,' said I, 'what Grotius has
done, and what Addison has done. You should do also.' He replied, 'I
hope I shall.'
Monday, 23d August
Principal Campbell, Sir Alexander Gordon, Professor Gordon, and
Professor Ross, visited us in the morning, as did Dr Gerard, who had
come six miles from the country on purpose. We went and saw the
Marischal College, [Footnote: Dr Beattie was so kindly entertained in
England, that he had not yet returned home.] and at one o'clock we
waited on the magistrates in the town hall, as they had invited us in
order to present Dr Johnson with the freedom of the town, which
Provost Jopp did with a very good grace. Dr Johnson was much pleased
with this mark of attention, and received it very politely. There was
a pretty numerous company assembled. It was striking to hear all of
them drinking?'Dr Johnson! Dr Johnson!' in the town-hall of Aberdeen,
and then to see him with his burgess-ticket, or diploma, [Footnote: Dr
Johnson's burgess-ticket was in these words:
Aberdoniae, vigesimo tertio die mensis Augusti, anno Domini millesimo
septingentesimo septuagesimo tertio, in presentia honorabilium
virorum, Jacobi Jopp, armigeri, praepositi, Adami Duff, Gulielmi
Young, Georgii Marr, et Gulielmi Forbes, Balivorum, Gulielmi Rainie
Decani guildae, et Joannis Nicoll Thesaurarii dicti burgi.
Quo die vir generosus et doctrina clarus, Samuel Johnson, LL. D.
receptus et admissus fuit in municipes et fratres guildae praefati
burgi de Aberdeen. In deditissimi amoris et affectus ac eximiae
observantiae tesseram, quibus dicti Magistratus eum amplectuntur.
Extractum per me, ALEX. CARNEGIE.] in his hat, which he wore as he
walked along the street, according to the usual custom. It gave me
great satisfaction to observe the regard, and indeed fondness too,
which every body here had for my father.
While Sir Alexander Gordon conducted Dr Johnson to old Aberdeen,
Professor Gordon and I called on Mr Riddoch, whom I found to be a
grave worthy clergyman. He observed, that, whatever might be said of
Dr Johnson while he was alive, he would, after he was dead, be looked
upon by the world with regard and astonishment, on account of his
Dictionary.
Professor Gordon and I walked over to the Old College, which Dr
Johnson had seen by this time. I stepped into the chapel, and looked
at the tomb of the founder, Archbishop Elphinston, of whom I shall
have occasion to write in my History of James IV of Scotland, the
patron of my family.
We dined at Sir Alexander Gordon's. The Provost, Professor Ross,
Professor Dunbar, Professor Thomas Gordon, were there. After dinner
came in Dr Gerard, Professor Leslie, Professor Macleod. We had little
or no conversation in the morning; now we were but barren. The
professors seemed afraid to speak.
Dr Gerard told us that an eminent printer was very intimate with
Warburton. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, he has printed some of his works, and
perhaps bought the property of some of them. The intimacy is such as
one of the professors here may have with one of the carpenters who is
repairing the college.' 'But,' said Gerard, 'I saw a letter from him
to this printer, in which he says, that the one half of the clergy of
the Church of Scotland are fanaticks, and the other half infidels.'
JOHNSON. 'Warburton has accustomed himself to write letters just as he
speaks, without thinking any more of what he throws out. When I read
Warburton first, and observed his force, and his contempt of mankind,
I thought he had driven the world before him; but I soon found that
was not the case; for Warburton, by extending his abuse, rendered it
ineffectual.'
He told me, when we were by ourselves, that he thought it very wrong
in the printer, to shew Warburton's letter, as it was raising a body
of enemies against him. He thought it foolish in Warburton to write so
to the printer; and added, 'Sir, the worst way of being intimate, is
by scribbling.' He called Warburton's Doctrine of Grace a poor
performance, and so he said was Wesley's Answer. 'Warburton,' he
observed, 'had laid himself very open. In particular, he was weak
enough to say, that, in some disorders of the imagination, people had
spoken with tongues, had spoken languages which they never knew
before; a thing as absurd as to say, that, in some disorders of the
imagination, people had been known to fly.'
I talked of the difference of genius, to try if I could engage Gerard
in a disquisition with Dr Johnson; but I did not succeed. I mentioned,
as a curious fact, that Locke had written verses. JOHNSON. 'I know of
none, sir, but a kind of exercise prefixed to Dr Sydenham's Works, in
which he has some conceits about the dropsy, in which water and
burning are united; and how Dr Sydenham removed fire by drawing off
water, contrary to the usual practice, which is to extinguish fire by
bringing water upon it. I am not sure that there is a word of all
this; but it is such kind of talk.' [Footnote: All this, as Dr Johnson
suspected at the time, was the immediate invention of his own lively
imagination; for there is not one word of it in Mr Locke's
complimentary performance. My readers will, I have no doubt, like to
be satisfied, by comparing them: and, at any rate, it may entertain
them to read verses composed by our great metaphysician, when a
Bachelor in Physick.
AUCTORI, IN TRACTATUM EJUS DE FEBRIBUS.
Febriles aestus, victumque ardoribus orbem
Flevit, non tantis par Medicina malis.
Et post mille artes, medicae tentamina curae,
Ardet adhuc Febris; nec velit arte regi.
Praeda sumus flammis; solum hoc speramus ab igne,
Ut restet paucus, quem capit urna, cinis.
Dum quaerit medicus febris caussamque, modumque,
Flammarum et tenebras, et sine luce faces;
Quas tractat patitur flammas, et febre calescens,
Corruit ipse suis victima rapta focis.
Qui tardos potuit morbos, artusque trementes,
Sistere, febrili se videt igne rapi.
Sic faber exesos fulsit tibicine muros;
Dum trahit antiquas lenta ruina domos.
Sed si flamma vorax miseras incenderit aedes,
Unica flagrantes tunc sepelire salus.
Fit fuga, tectonicas nemo tunc invocat artes;
Cum perit artificis non minus usta domus.
Se tandem Sydenham febrisque Scholaeque furori]
We spoke of Fingal. Dr Johnson said calmly, 'If the poems were really
translated, they were certainly first written down. Let Mr Macpherson
deposite the manuscript in one of the colleges at Aberdeen, where
there are people who can judge; and, if the professors certify the
authenticity, then there will be an end of the controversy. If he does
not take this obvious and easy method, he gives the best reason to
doubt; considering too, how much is against it a priori.'
We sauntered after dinner in Sir Alexander's garden, and saw his
little grotto, which is hung with pieces of poetry written in a fair
hand. It was
[Footnote: Opponens, morbi quaerit, et artis opem.
Non temere incusat tectae putedinis ignes;
Nec fictus, febres qui fovet, humor erit,
Non bilem ille movet, nulla hic pituita; Salutis
Quae spes, si fallax ardeat intus aqua
Nec doctas magno rixas ostentat hiatu,
Quis ipsis major febribus ardor inest.
Innocuas placide corpus jubet urere flammas,
Et justo rapidos temperat igne focos.
Quid febrim exstinguat; varius quid postulat usus,
Solari aegrotos, qua potes arte, docet.
Hactenus ipsa suum timuit Natura calorem,
Dum saepe incerto, quo calet, igne perit:
Dum reparat tacitos male provida sanguinis ignes,
Praelusit busto, fit calor iste rogus.
Jam secura suas foveant praecordia flammas,
Quem Natura negat, dat Medicina modum.
Nec solum faciles compescit sanguinis aestus,
Dum dubia est inter spemque metumque salus;
Sed fatale malum domuit, quodque astra malignum
Credimus, iratam vel genuisse Stygem.
Extorsit Lachesi cultros, Pestique venenum
Abstulit, et tantos non sinit esse metus.
Quis tandem arte nova domitam mitescere Pestem
Credat, et antiquas ponere posse minas
Post tot mille neces, cumulataque funera busto,
Victa jacet, parvo vulnere, dira Lues.
Aetheriae quanquam spargunt contagia flammae,
Quicquid inest istis ignibus, ignis erit.
Delapsae coelo flammae licet acrius urant,
Has gelida exstingui non nisi morte putas
Tu meliora paras victrix Medicina; tuusque,
Pestis qua superat cuncta, triumphus eris.
Vive liber, victis febrilibus ignibus; unus
Te simul et mundum qui manet, ignis erit.
J. LOCK, A. M. Ex. Aede Christi, Oxon.]
agreeable to observe the contentment and kindness of this quiet,
benevolent man. Professor Macleod was brother to Macleod of Talisker,
and brother-in-law to the Laird of Col. He gave me a letter to young
Col. I was weary of this day, and began to think wishfully of being
again in motion. I was uneasy to think myself too fastidious, whilst I
fancied Dr Johnson quite satisfied. But he owned to me that he was
fatigued and teased by Sir Alexander's doing too much to entertain
him. I said, it was all kindness. JOHNSON. 'True, sir: but sensation
is sensation.' BOSWELL. 'It is so: we feel pain equally from the
surgeon's probe, as from the sword of the foe.'
We visited two booksellers' shops, and could not find Arthur
Johnston's Poems. We went and sat near an hour at Mr Riddoch's. He
could not tell distinctly how much education at the college here
costs, which disgusted Dr Johnson. I had pledged myself that we should
go to the inn, and not stay supper. They pressed us, but he was
resolute. I saw Mr Riddoch did not please him. He said to me,
afterwards, 'Sir, he has no vigour in his talk.' But my friend should
have considered that he himself was not in good humour; so that it was
not easy to talk to his satisfaction. We sat contentedly at our inn.
He then became merry, and observed how little we had either heard or
said at Aberdeen: that the Aberdonians had not started a single mawkin
(the Scottish word for hare) for us to pursue.
Tuesday, 24th August
We set out about eight in the morning, and breakfasted at Ellon. The
landlady said to me, 'Is not this the great Doctor that is going about
through the country?' I said, 'Yes.' 'Ay,' said she, 'we heard of him,
I made an errand into the room on purpose to see him. There's
something great in his appearance: it is a pleasure to have such a man
in one's house; a man who does so much good. If I had thought of it, I
would have shewn him a child of mine, who has had a lump on his throat
for some time.' 'But,' said I, 'he is not a doctor of physick.' 'Is he
an oculist?' said the landlord. 'No,' said I, 'he is only a very
learned man.' LANDLORD. 'They say he is the greatest man in England,
except Lord Mansfield.' Dr Johnson was highly entertained with this,
and I do think he was pleased too. He said, 'I like the exception: to
have called me the greatest man in England, would have been an
unmeaning compliment: but the exception marked that the praise was in
earnest; and, in SCOTLAND, the exception must be LORD MANSFIELD,
or--SIR JOHN PRINGLE.'
He told me a good story of Dr Goldsmith. Graham, who wrote Telemachus,
a Masque, was sitting one night with him and Dr Johnson, and was half
drunk. He rattled away to Dr Johnson: 'You are a clever fellow, to be
sure; but you cannot write an essay like Addison, or verses like the
Rape of the Lock.' At last he said, [Footnote: I am sure I have
related this story exactly as Dr Johnson told it to me: but a friend
who has often heard him tell it, informs me that he usually introduced
a circumstance which ought not to be omitted. 'At last, sir, Graham,
having now got to about the pitch of looking at one man, and talking
to another, said DOCTOR &c. 'What effect.' Dr Johnson used to add,
'this had on Goldsmith, who was as irascible as a hornet, may be
easily conceived.'] 'DOCTOR, I should be happy to see you at Eaton.'
'I shall be glad to wait on you,' answered Goldsmith. 'No,' said
Graham, ''tis not you I mean, Dr MINOR; 'tis Dr MAJOR, there.'
Goldsmith was excessively hurt by this. He afterwards spoke of it
himself. 'Graham,' said he, 'is a fellow to make one commit suicide.'
We had received a polite invitation to Slains castle. We arrived there
just at three o'clock, as the bell for dinner was ringing. Though,
from its being just on the north-east Ocean, no trees will grow here,
Lord Errol has done all that can be done. He has cultivated his fields
so as to bear rich crops of every kind, and he has made an excellent
kitchen-garden, with a hot-house. I had never seen any of the family:
but there had been a card of invitation written by the honourable
Charles Boyd, the earl's brother. We were conducted into the house,
and at the dining-room door were met by that gentleman, whom both of
us at first took to be Lord Errol; but he soon corrected our mistake.
My lord was gone to dine in the neighbourhood, at an entertainment
given by Mr Irvine of Drum. Lady Errol received us politely, and was
very attentive to us during the time of dinner. There was nobody at
table but her ladyship, Mr Boyd, and some of the children, their
governour and governess. Mr Boyd put Dr Johnson in mind of having
dined with him at Cumming the Quaker's, along with Mr Hall and Miss
Williams: this was a bond of connection between them. For me, Mr
Boyd's acquaintance with my father was enough. After dinner, Lady
Errol favoured us with a sight of her young family, whom she made
stand up in a row. There were six daughters and two sons. It was a
very pleasing sight.
Dr Johnson proposed our setting out. Mr Boyd said, he hoped we would
stay all night; his brother would be at home in the evening, and would
be very sorry if he missed us. Mr Boyd was called out of the room. I
was very desirous to stay in so comfortable a house, and I wished to
see Lord Errol. Dr Johnson, however, was right in resolving to go, if
we were not asked again, as it is best to err on the safe side in such
cases, and to be sure that one is quite welcome. To my great joy, when
Mr Boyd returned, he told Dr Johnson that it was Lady Errol who had
called him out, and said that she would never let Dr Johnson into the
house again, if he went away that night; and that she had ordered the
coach, to carry us to view a great curiosity on the coast, after which
we should see the house. We cheerfully agreed.
Mr Boyd was engaged, in 1745-6, on the same side with many unfortunate
mistaken noblemen and gentlemen. He escaped, and lay concealed for a
year in the island of Arran, the ancient territory of the Boyds. He
then went to France, and was about twenty years on the continent. He
married a French lady, and now lived very comfortably at Aberdeen, and
was much at Slains castle. He entertained us with great civility. He
had a pompousness or formal plenitude in his conversation which I did
not dislike. Dr Johnson said, there was too much elaboration in his
talk. It gave me pleasure to see him, a steady branch of the family,
setting forth all its advantages with much zeal. He told us that Lady
Errol was one of the most pious and sensible women in the island; had
a good head, and as good a heart. He said, she did not use force or
fear in educating her children. JOHNSON. 'Sir, she is wrong; I would
rather have the rod to be the general terror to all, to make them
learn, than tell a child, if you do thus or thus, you will be more
esteemed than your brothers or sisters. The rod produces an effect
which terminates itself. A child is afraid of being whipped, and gets
his task, and there's an end on't; whereas, by exciting emulation, and
comparisons of superiority, you lay the foundation of lasting
mischief; you make brothers and sisters hate each other.'
During Mr Boyd's stay in Arran, he had found a chest of medical books,
left by a surgeon there, and had read them till he acquired some skill
in physick, in consequence of which he is often consulted by the poor.
There were several here waiting for him as patients. We walked round
the house till stopped by a cut made by the influx of the sea. The
house is built quite upon the shore; the windows look upon the main
ocean, and the King of Denmark is Lord Errol's nearest neighbour on
the north-east.
We got immediately into the coach, and drove to Dunbui, a rock near
the shore, quite covered with sea-fowls; then to a circular bason of
large extent, surrounded with tremendous rocks. On the quarter next
the sea, there is a high arch in the rock, which the force of the
tempest has driven out. This place is called Buchan's Buller, or the
Buller of Buchan, and the country people call it the Pot. Mr Boyd said
it was so called from the French Bouloir. It may be more simply traced
from Boiler in our own language. We walked round this monstrous
cauldron. In some places, the rock is very narrow; and on each side
there is a sea deep enough for a man of war to ride in; so that it is
somewhat horrid to move along. However, there is earth and grass upon
the rock, and a kind of road marked out by the print of feet; so that
one makes it out pretty safely: yet it alarmed me to see Dr Johnson
striding irregularly along. He insisted on taking a boat, and sailing
into the Pot. We did so. He was stout, and wonderfully alert. The
Buchan-men all shewing their teeth, and speaking with that strange
sharp accent which distinguishes them, was to me a matter of
curiosity. He was not sensible of the difference of pronunciation in
the south and north of Scotland, which I wondered at.
As the entry into the Buller is so narrow that oars cannot be used as
you go in, the method taken is to row very hard when you come near it,
and give the boat such a rapidity of motion that it glides in. Dr
Johnson observed what an effect this scene would have had, were we
entering into an unknown place. There are caves of considerable depth;
I think, one on each side. The boatmen had never entered either of
them far enough to know the size. Mr Boyd told us that it is customary
for the company at Peterhead well, to make parties, and come and dine
in one of the caves here.
He told us, that, as Slains is at a considerable distance from
Aberdeen, Lord Errol, who has a very large family, resolved to have a
surgeon of his own. With this view he educated one of his tenant's
sons, who is now settled in a very neat house and farm just by, which
we saw from the road. By the salary which the earl allows him, and the
practice which he has had, he is in very easy circumstances. He had
kept an exact account of all that had been laid out on his education,
and he came to his lordship one day, and told him that he had arrived
at a much higher situation than ever he expected; that he was now able
to repay what his lordship had advanced, and begged he would accept of
it. The earl was pleased with the generous gratitude and genteel offer
of the man; but refused it. Mr Boyd also told us, Cumming the Quaker
first began to distinguish himself, by writing against Dr Leechman on
prayer, to prove it unnecessary, as God knows best what should be, and
will order it without our asking--the old hackneyed objection.
When we returned to the house we found coffee and tea in the
drawing-room. Lady Errol was not there, being, as I supposed, engaged
with her young family. There is a bow-window fronting the sea. Dr
Johnson repeated the ode, Jam satis terris, while Mr Boyd was with his
patients. He spoke well in favour of entails, to preserve lines of men
whom mankind are accustomed to reverence. His opinion was that so much
land should be entailed as that families should never fall into
contempt, and as much left free as to give them all the advantages of
property in case of any emergency. 'If,' said he, 'the nobility are
suffered to sink into indigence, they of course become corrupt; they
are ready to do whatever the king chooses; therefore it is fit they
should be kept from becoming poor, unless it is fixed that when they
fall below a certain standard of wealth they shall lose their
peerages. We know the House of Peers have made noble stands, when the
House of Commons durst not. The two last years of Parliament they dare
not contradict the populace.'
This room is ornamented with a number of fine prints, and with a whole
length picture of Lord Errol, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. This led Dr
Johnson and me to talk of our amiable and elegant friend, whose
panegyrick he concluded by saying, 'Sir Joshua Reynolds, sir, is the
most invulnerable man I know; the man with whom if you should quarrel,
you would find the most difficulty how to abuse.'
Dr Johnson observed, the situation here was the noblest he had ever
seen, better than Mount Edgecumbe, reckoned the first in England;
because, at
Mount Edgecumbe, the sea is bounded by land on the other side, and,
though there is there the grandeur of a fleet, there is also the
impression of there being a dock-yard, the circumstances of which are
not agreeable. At Slains is an excellent old house. The noble owner
has built of brick, along the square in the inside, a gallery, both on
the first and second story, the house being no higher; so that he has
always a dry walk, and the rooms, to which formerly there was no
approach but through each other, have now all separate entries from
the gallery, which is hung with Hogarth's works, and other prints. We
went and sat a while in the library. There is a valuable numerous
collection. It was chiefly made by Mr Falconer, husband to the late
Countess of Errol in her own right. This earl has added a good many
modern books.
About nine the earl came home. Captain Gordon of Park was with him.
His lordship put Dr Johnson in mind of their having dined together in
London, along with Mr Beauclerk. I was exceedingly pleased with Lord
Errol. His dignified person and agreeable countenance, with the most
unaffected affability, gave me high satisfaction. From perhaps a
weakness, or, as I rather hope, more fancy and warmth of feeling than
is quite reasonable, my mind is ever impressed with admiration for
persons of high birth, and I could, with the most perfect honesty,
expatiate on Lord Errol's good qualities; but he stands in no need of
my praise. His agreeable manners and softness of address prevented
that constraint which the idea of his being Lord High Constable of
Scotland might otherwise have occasioned. He talked very easily and
sensibly with his learned guest. I observed that Dr Johnson, though he
shewed that respect to his lordship, which, from principle, he always
does to high rank, yet, when they came to argument, maintained that
manliness which becomes the force and vigour of his understanding. To
shew external deference to our superiors, is proper: to seem to yield
to them in opinion, is meanness. [Footnote: Lord Chesterfield, in his
letters to his son, complains of one who argued in an indiscriminate
manner with men of all ranks. Probably the noble lord had felt with
some uneasiness what it was to encounter stronger abilities than his
own. If a peer will engage at foils with his inferior in station, he
must expect that his inferior in station will avail himself of every
advantage; otherwise it is not a fair trial of strength and skill. The
same will hold in a contest of reason, or of wit. A certain king
entered the lists of genius with Voltaire. The consequence was, that,
though the king had great and brilliant talents, Voltaire had such a
superiority that his majesty could not bear it; and the poet was
dismissed, or escaped, from that court. In the reign of James I of
England. Crichton, Lord Sanquhar, a peer of Scotland, from a vain
ambition to excel a fencing-master in his own art, played at rapier
and dagger with him. The fencing-master, whose fame and bread were at
stake, put out one of his lordship's eyes. Exasperated at this. Lord
Sanquhar hired ruffians, and had the fencing-master assassinated; for
which his lordship was capitally tried, condemned, and hanged. Not
being a peer of England, he was tried by the name of Robert Crichton,
Esq.; but he was admitted to be a baron of three hundred years
standing. See the State Trials; and the History of England by Hume,
who applauds the impartial justice executed upon a man of high rank.]
The earl said grace, both before and after supper, with much decency.
He told us a story of a man who was executed at Perth, some years ago,
for murdering a woman who was with child by him, and a former child he
had by her. His hand was cut off: he was then pulled up; but the rope
broke, and he was forced to lie an hour on the ground, till another
rope was brought from Perth, the execution being in a wood at some
distance, at the place where the murders were committed. 'There,' said
my lord, 'I see the hand of Providence.' I was really happy here. I
saw in this nobleman the best dispositions and best principles; and I
saw him, in my mind's eye, to be the representative of the ancient
Boyds of Kilmarnock. I was afraid he might have urged drinking, as, I
believe, he used formerly to do, but he drank port and water out of a
large glass himself, and let us do as we pleased. He went with us to
our rooms at night; said, he took the visit very kindly; and told me,
my father and he were very old acquaintances; that I now knew the way
to Slains, and he hoped to see me there again.
I had a most elegant room; but there was a fire in it which blazed;
and the sea, to which my windows looked, roared; and the pillows were
made of the feathers of some sea-fowl, which had to me a disgreeable
smell: so that, by all these causes, I was kept awake a good while. I
saw, in imagination, Lord Errol's father, Lord Kilmarnock (who was
beheaded on Tower Hill in 1746), and I was somewhat dreary. But the
thought did not last long, and I fell asleep.
Wednesday, 25th August
We got up between seven and eight, and found Mr Boyd in the
dining-room, with tea and coffee before him, to give us breakfast. We
were in an admirable humour. Lady Errol had given each of us a copy of
an ode by Beattie, on the birth of her son, Lord Hay. Mr Boyd asked Dr
Johnson, how he liked it. Dr Johnson, who did not admire it, got off
very well, by taking it out, and reading the second and third stanzes
of it with much melody. This, without his saying a word, pleased Mr
Boyd. He observed, however, to Dr Johnson, that the expression as to
the family of Errol,
A thousand years have seen it shine compared with what went before,
was an anticlimax, and that it would have been better
Ages have seen, etc.
Dr Johnson said, 'So great a number as a thousand is better. Dolus
latet in universalibus. Ages might be only two ages.' He talked of the
advantage of keeping up the connections of relationship, which produce
much kindness. 'Every man,' said he, 'who comes into the world, has
need of friends. If he has to get them for himself, half his life is
spent, before his merit is known. Relations are a man's ready friends
who support him. When a man is in real distress, he flies into the
arms of his relations. An old lawyer, who had much experience in
making wills, told me, that after people had deliberated long, and
thought of many for their executors, they settled at last by fixing on
their relations. This shews the universality of the principle.'
I regretted the decay of respect for men of family, and that a Nabob
now would carry an election from them. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, the Nabob
will carry it by means of his wealth, in a country where money is
highly valued, as it must be where nothing can be had without money;
but, if it comes to personal preference, the man of family will always
carry it. There is generally a scoundrelism about a low man.' Mr Boyd
said, that was a good ism.
I said, I believed mankind were happier in the ancient feudal state of
subordination, than they are in the modern state of independency.
JOHNSON. To be sure, the CHIEF was: but we must think of the number of
individuals. That THEY were less happy, seems plain; for that state
from which all escape as soon as they can, and to which none return
after they have left it, must be less happy; and this is the case with
the state of dependance on a chief or great man.'
I mentioned the happiness of the French in their subordination, by the
reciprocal benevolence and attachment between the great and those in
lower rank. Mr Boyd gave us an instance of their gentlemanly spirit.
An old Chevalier de Malthe, of ancient noblesse, but in low
circumstances, was in a coffee-house at Paris, where was Julien, the
great manufacturer at the Gobelins, of the fine tapestry, so much
distinguished both for the figures and the colours. The chevalier's
carriage was very old. Says Julien, with a plebeian insolence, 'I
think, sir, you had better have your carriage new painted.' The
chevalier looked at him with indignant contempt, and answered, 'Well,
sir. you may take it home and DYE it!' All the coffee-house rejoiced
at Julien's confusion.
We set out about nine. Dr Johnson was curious to see one of those
structures which northern antiquarians call a Druid's temple. I had a
recollection of one at Strichen; which I had seen fifteen years ago:
so we went four miles out of our road, after passing Old Deer, and
went thither. Mr Fraser, the proprietor, was at home, and shewed it to
us. But I had augmented it in my mind; for all that remains is two
stones set up on end, with a long one laid upon them, as was usual and
one stone at a little distance from them. That stone was the capital
one of the circle which surrounded what now remains. Mr Fraser was
very hospitable. [Footnote: He is the worthy son of a worthy father,
the late Lord Strichen, one of our judges, to whose kind notice I was
much obliged. Lord Strichen was a man not only honest, but highly
generous: for after his succession to the family estate, he paid a
large sum of debts contracted by his predecessor, which he was not
under any obligation to pay. Let me here, for the credit of Ayrshire,
my own county, record a noble instance of liberal honesty in William
Hutchison, drover, in Lanehead, Kyle, who formerly obtained a full
discharge from his creditors upon a composition of his debts: but upon
being restored to good circumstances, invited his creditors last
winter to a dinner, without telling the reason, and paid them their
full sums, principal and interest. They presented him with a piece of
plate, with an inscription to commemorate this extraordinary instance
of true worth; which should make some people in Scotland blush, while,
though mean themselves, they strut about under the protection of great
alliance conscious of the wretchedness of numbers who have lost by
them, to whom they never think of making reparation, but indulge
themselves and their families in most unsuitable expence.] There was a
fair at Strichen; and he had several of his neighbours from it at
dinner. One of them, Dr Fraser, who had been in the army, remembered
to have seen Dr Johnson at a lecture on experimental philosophy, at
Lichfield. The doctor recollected being at the lecture; and he was
surprised to find here somebody who knew him.
Mr Fraser sent a servant to conduct us by a short passage into the
high-road. I observed to Dr Johnson, that I had a most disagreeable
notion of the life of country gentlemen; that I left Mr Fraser just
now, as one leaves a prisoner in a jail. Dr Johnson said, that I was
right in thinking them unhappy; for that they had not enough to keep
their minds in motion.
I started a thought this afternoon which amused us a great part of the
way. 'If,' said I, 'our club should come and set up in St Andrews, as a
college, to teach all that each of us can, in the several departments
of learning and taste, we should rebuild the city: we should draw a
wonderful concourse of students.' Dr Johnson entered fully into the
spirit of this project. We immediately fell to distributing the
offices. I was to teach civil and Scotch law; Burke, politicks and
eloquence; Garrick, the art of publick speaking; Langton was to be our
Grecian, Colman our Latin professor; Nugent to teach physick; Lord
Charlemont, modern history; Beauclerk, natural philosophy; Vesey,
Irish antiquities, or Celtick learning;[Footnote: Since the first
edition, it has been suggested by one of the clubs, who knew Mr Vesey
better than Dr Johnson and I, that we did not assign him a proper
place; for he was quite unskilled in Irish antiquities and Celtick
learning, but might with propriety have been made professor of
architecture, which he understood well, and has left a very good
specimen of his knowledge and taste in that art, by an elegant house
built on a plan of his own formation, at Lucan, a few miles from
Dublin.] Jones, Oriental learning; Goldsmith, poetry and ancient
history; Chamier, commercial politicks; Reynolds, painting, and the
arts which have beauty for their object; Chambers, the law of England.
Dr Johnson at first said. 'I'll trust theology to nobody but myself.'
But, upon due consideration, that Percy is a clergyman, it was agreed
that Percy should teach practical divinity and British antiquities; Dr
Johnson himself, logick, metaphysicks and scholastick divinity. In
this manner did we amuse ourselves, each suggesting, and each varying
or adding, till the whole was adjusted. Dr Johnson said, we only
wanted a mathematician since Dyer died, who was a very good one; but
as to every thing else, we should have a very capital university,
[Footnote: Our club, originally at the Turk's Head, Gerrard Street,
then at Prince's, Sackville Street, now at Baxter's Dover Street,
which at Mr Garrick's funeral acquired a name for the first time, and
was called The Literary Club, was instituted in 1764, and now consists
of thirty-five members. It has, since 1773, been greatly augmented;
and though Dr Johnson with justice observed, that, by losing
Goldsmith, Garrick, Nugent, Chamier, Beauclerk, we had lost what would
make an eminent club, yet when I mention, as an accession, Mr Fox, Dr
George Fordyce, Sir Charles Bunbury, Lord Offory, Mr Gibbon, Dr Adam
Smith, Mr R. B. Sheridan, the Bishops of Kilaloe and St Asaph, Dean
Marlay, Mr Steevens, Mr Dunning, Sir Joseph Banks, Dr Scott of the
Commons, Earl Spencer, Mr Windham of Norfolk, Lord Elliot, Mr Malone,
Dr Joseph Warton, the Rev. Thomas Warton, Lord Lucan, Mr Burke junior,
Lord Palmerston, Dr Burney, Sir William Hamilton, and Dr Warren, it
will be acknowledged that we might establish a second university of
high reputation.]
We got at night to Banff. I sent Joseph on to Duff house: but Earl
Fife was not at home, which I regretted much, as we should have had a
very elegant reception from his lordship. We found here but an
indifferent inn. [Footnote: Here, unluckily the windows had no
pullies; and Dr Johnson, who was constantly eager for fresh air, had
much struggling to get one of them kept open. Thus he had a notion
impressed upon him, that this wretched defect was general in Scotland;
in consequence of which he has erroneously enlarged upon it in his
Journey. I regretted that he did not allow me to read over his book
before it was printed. I should have changed very little; but I should
have suggested an alteration in a few places where he has laid himself
open to be attacked. I hope I should have prevailed with him to omit
or soften his assertion, that 'a Scotsman must be a sturdy moralist,
who does not prefer Scotland to truth', for I really think it is not
founded; and it is harshly said.] Dr Johnson wrote a long letter to
Mrs Thrale. I wondered to see him write so much so easily. He verified
his own doctrine that 'a man may always write when he will set himself
DOGGEDLY to it'.
Thursday, 26th August
We got a fresh chaise here, a very good one, and very good horses. We
breakfasted at Cullen. They set down dried haddocks broiled, along
with our tea. I ate one; but Dr Johnson was disgusted by the sight of
them, so they were removed. Cullen has a comfortable appearance,
though but a very small town, and the houses mostly poor buildings.
I called on Mr Robertson, who has the charge of Lord Findlater's
affairs, and was formerly Lord Monboddo's clerk, was three times in
France with him, and translated Condamine's Account of the Savage
Girl, to which his lordship wrote a preface, containing several
remarks of his own. Robertson said, he did not believe so much as his
lordship did; that it was plain to him, the girl confounded what she
imagined with what she remembered: that, besides, she perceived
Condamine and Lord Monboddo forming theories, and she adapted her
story to them.
Dr Johnson said, 'It is a pity to see Lord Monboddo publish such
notions as he has done; a man of sense, and of so much elegant
learning. There would be little in a fool doing it; we should only
laugh; but when a wise man does it, we are sorry. Other people have
strange notions; but they conceal them. If they have tails, they hide
them; but Monboddo is as jealous of his tail as a squirrel.' I shall
here put down some more remarks of Dr Johnson's on Lord Monboddo,
which were not made exactly at this time, but come in well from
connection. He said, he did not approve of a judge's calling himself
FARMER Burnett, [Footnote: It is the custom in Scotland for the judges
of the Court of Session to have the title of LORDS, from their
estates: thus Mr Burnett is Lord MONBODDO, as Mr Home was Lord KAMES.
There is something a little aukward in this; for they are denominated
in deeds by their NAMES, with the addition of one of the Senators of
the College of Justice'; and subscribe their Christian and surname, as
JAMES BURNETT, HENRY HOME, even in judicial acts.] and going about
with a little round hat. He laughed heartily at his lordship's saying
he was an ENTHUSIASTICAL farmer; 'for,' said he, 'what can he do in
farming by his ENTHUSIASM?' Here, however, I think Dr Johnson
mistaken. He who wishes to be successful, or happy, ought to be
enthusiastical, that is to say, very keen in all the occupations or
diversions of life. An ordinary gentleman-farmer will be satisfied
with looking at his fields once or twice a day: an enthusiastical
farmer will be constantly employed on them; will have his mind
earnestly engaged; will talk perpetually of them. But Dr Johnson has
much of the nil admirari in smaller concerns. That survey of life
which gave birth to his Vanity of Human Wishes early sobered his mind.
Besides, so great a mind as his cannot be moved by inferior objects:
an elephant does not run and skip like lesser animals.
Mr Robertson sent a servant with us, to shew us through Lord
Findlater's wood, by which our way was shortened, and we saw some part
of his domain, which is indeed admirably laid out. Dr Johnson did not
choose to walk through it. He always said, that he was not come to
Scotland to see fine places, of which there were enough in England;
but wild objects--mountains, waterfalls, peculiar manners; in short,
things which he had not seen before. I have a notion that he at no
time has had much taste for rural beauties. I have myself very little.
Dr Johnson said, there was nothing more contemptible than a country
gentleman living beyond his income, and every year growing poorer and
poorer. He spoke strongly of the influence which a man has by being
rich. 'A man,' said he, 'who keeps his money, has in reality more use
from it, than he can have by spending it.' I observed that this looked
very like a paradox; but he explained it thus: 'If it were certain
that a man would keep his money locked up for ever, to be sure he
would have no influence; but, as so many want money, and he has the
power of giving it, and they know not but by gaining his favour they
may obtain it, the rich man will always have the greatest influence.
He again who lavishes his money, is laughed at as foolish, and in a
great degree with justice, considering how much is spent from vanity.
Even those who partake of a man's hospitality, have but a transient
kindness for him. If he has not the command of money, people know he
cannot help them, if he would; whereas the rich man always can, if he
will, and for the chance of that, will have much weight.' BOSWELL.
'But philosophers and satirists have all treated a miser as
contemptible.' JOHNSON. 'He is so philosophically; but not in the
practice of life.' BOSWELL. 'Let me see now--I do not know the
instances of misers in England, so as to examine into their
influence.' JOHNSON. 'We have had few misers in England.' BOSWELL.
'There was Lowther." JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, Lowther, by keeping his
money, had the command of the county, which the family has now lost,
by spending it. [Footnote: I do not know what was at this time the
state of the parliamentary interest of the ancient family of Lowther;
a family before the Conquest: but all the nation knows it to be very
extensive at present. A due mixture of severity and kindness, oeconomy
and munificence, characterizes its present Representative.] I take it,
he lent a great deal; and that is the way to have influence, and yet
preserve one's wealth. A man may lend his money upon very good
security, and yet have his debtor much under his power.' BOSWELL. 'No
doubt, sir. He can always distress him for the money; as no man
borrows, who is able to pay on demand quite conveniently.'
We dined at Elgin, and saw the noble ruins of the cathedral. Though it
rained much, Dr Johnson examined them with a most patient attention.
He could not here feel any abhorrence at the Scottish reformers, for
he had been told by Lord Hailes, that it was destroyed before the
Reformation, by the Lord of Badenoch, [Footnote: NOTE, by Lord Hailes:
'The cathedral of Elgin was burnt by the Lord of Badenoch, because the
Bishop of Moray had pronounced an award not to his liking. The
indemnification that the see obtained, was that the Lord of Badenoch
stood for three days bare footed at the great gate of the cathedral.
The story is in the Chartulary of Elgin.'] who had a quarrel with the
bishop. The bishop's house, and those of the other clergy, which are
still pretty entire, do not seem to have been proportioned to the
magnificence of the cathedral, which has been of great extent, and had
very fine carved work. The ground within the walls of the cathedral is
employed as a burying-place. The family of Gordon have their vault
here; but it has nothing grand.
We passed Gordon Castle [Footnote: I am not sure whether the duke was
at home. But, not having the honour of being much known to his grace,
I could not have presumed to enter his castle, though to introduce
even so celebrated a stranger. We were at any rate in a hurry to get
forward to the wildness which we came to see. Perhaps, if this noble
family had still preserved that sequestered magnificence which they
maintained when Catholicks, corresponding with the Grand Duke of
Tuscany, we might have been induced to have procured proper letters of
introduction, and devoted some time to the contemplation of venerable
superstitious state.] this forenoon, which has a princely appearance.
Fochabers, the neighbouring village, is a poor place, many of the
houses being ruinous; but it is remarkable, they have in general
orchards well stored with apple-trees. Elgin has what in England are
called piazzas, that run in many places on each side of the street. It
must have been a much better place formerly. Probably it had piazzas
all along the town, as I have seen at Bologna. I approved much of such
structures in a town, on account of their conveniency in wet weather.
Dr Johnson disapproved of them, 'because,' said he, 'it makes the
under story of a house very dark, which greatly over-balances the
conveniency, when it is considered how small a part of the year it
rains; how few are usually in the street at such times; that many who
are might as well be at home; and the little that people suffer,
supposing them to be as much wet as they commonly are in walking a
street'.
We fared but ill at our inn here; and Dr Johnson said, this was the
first time he had seen a dinner in Scotland that he could not eat.
In the afternoon, we drove over the very heath where Macbeth met the
witches, according to tradition. Dr Johnson again solemnly repeated
'"How far is't called to Fores? What are these,
So wither'd, and so wild in their attire
That look not like the inhabitants o' the earth.
And yet are on't "'
He repeated a good deal more of Macbeth. His recitation was grand and
affecting, and, as Sir Joshua Reynolds has observed to me, had no more
tone than it should have: it was the better for it. He then parodied
the 'All-hail' of the witches to Macbeth, addressing himself to me. I
had purchased some land called Dalblair; and, as in Scotland it is
customary to distinguish landed men by the name of their estates, I
had thus two titles, Dalblair and Young Auchinleck. So my friend, in
imitation of
All hail Macbeth! hail to thee, Thane of Cawdor!
condescended to amuse himself with uttering
All hail Dalblair! hail to thee, Laird of Auchinleck!
We got to Fores at night, and found an admirable inn, in which Dr
Johnson was pleased to meet with a landlord who styled himself
'Wine-Cooper, from London'.
Friday, 27th August
It was dark when we came to Fores last night; so we did not see what
is called King Duncan's monument. I shall now mark some gleanings of
Dr Johnson's conversation. I spoke of Leonidas, and said there were
some good passages in it. JOHNSON. 'Why, you must SEEK for them.' He
said, Paul Whitehead's Manners was a poor performance. Speaking of
Derrick, he told me he had a kindness for him, and had often said,
that if his letters had been written by one of a more established
name, they would have been thought very pretty letters.
This morning I introduced the subject of the origin of evil. JOHNSON.
'Moral evil is occasioned by free will, which implies choice between
good and evil. With all the evil that there is, there is no man but
would rather be a free agent, than a mere machine without the evil;
and what is best for each individual, must be best for the whole. If a
man would rather be the machine, I cannot argue with him. He is a
different being from me.' BOSWELL. 'A man, as a machine, may have
agreeable sensations; for instance, he may have pleasure in musick.'
JOHNSON, 'No, sir, he can not have pleasure in musick; at least no
power of producing musick; for he who can produce musick may let it
alone: he who can play upon a fiddle may break it: such a man is not a
machine.' This reasoning satisfied me. It is certain, there cannot be
a free agent, unless there is the power of being evil as well as good.
We must take the inherent possibilities of things into consideration,
in our reasonings or conjectures concerning the works of God.
We came to Nairn to breakfast. Though a county town and royal burgh,
it is a miserable place. Over the room where we sat, a girl was
spinning wool with a great wheel, and singing, an Erse song: 'I'll
warrant you,' said Dr Johnson, 'one of the songs of Ossian.' He then
repeated these lines:
'"Verse sweetens toil, however rude the sound.
All at her work the village maiden sings;
Nor, while she turns the giddy wheel around
Revolves the sad vicissitude of things."'
I thought I had heard these lines before. JOHNSON. 'I fancy not, sir;
for they are in a detached poem, the name of which I do not remember,
written by one Giffard, a parson.'
I expected Mr Kenneth M'Aulay, the minister of Calder, who published
the history of St Kilda, a book which Dr Johnson liked, would have met
us here, as I had written to him from Aberdeen. But I received a
letter from him, telling me that he could not leave home, as he was to
administer the sacrament the following Sunday, and earnestly
requesting to see us at his manse. 'We'll go,' said Dr Johnson; which
we accordingly did. Mrs M'Aulay received us, and told us her husband
was in the church distributing tokens. [Footnote: In Scotland, there
is a great deal of preparation before administering the sacrament. The
minister of the parish examines the people as to their fitness, and to
those of whom he approves gives little pieces of tin, stamped with the
name of the parish, as TOKENS, which they must produce before
receiving it. This is a species of priestly power, and sometimes may
be abused. I remember a lawsuit brought by a person against his parish
minister, for refusing him admission to that sacred ordinance.] We
arrived between twelve and one o'clock, and it was near three before
he came to us.
Dr Johnson thanked him for his book, and said 'it was a very pretty
piece of topography'. M'Aulay did not seem much to mind the
compliment. From his conversation, Dr Johnson was persuaded that he
had not written the book which goes under his name. I myself always
suspected so; and I have been told it was written by the learned Dr
John M'Pherson of Sky, from the materials collected by M'Aulay. Dr
Johnson said privately to me, 'There is a combination in it of which
M'Aulay is not capable.' However, he was exceedingly hospitable; and,
as he obligingly promised us a route for our tour through the Western
Isles, we agreed to stay with him all night.
After dinner, we walked to the old castle of Calder (pronounced
Cawder), the Thane of Cawdor's seat. I was sorry that my friend, this
'prosperous gentleman', was not there. The old tower must be of great
antiquity. There is a draw-bridge,--what has been a moat--and an
ancient court. There is a hawthorn-tree, which rises like a wooden
pillar through the rooms of the castle; for, by a strange conceit, the
walls have been built round it. The thickness of the walls, the small
slaunting windows, and a great iron door at the entrance on the second
story as you ascend the stairs, all indicate the rude times in which
this castle was erected. There were here some large venerable trees.
I was afraid of a quarrel between Dr Johnson and Mr M'Aulay, who
talked slightingly of the lower English clergy. The Doctor gave him a
frowning look, and said, 'This is a day of novelties: I have seen old
trees in Scotland, and I have heard the English clergy treated with
disrespect.'
I dreaded that a whole evening at Caldermanse would be heavy; however,
Mr Grant, an intelligent and well-bred minister in the neighbourhood,
was there, and assisted us by his conversation. Dr Johnson, talking of
hereditary occupations in the Highlands, said, 'There is no harm in
such a custom as this; but it is wrong to enforce it, and oblige a man
to be a taylor or a smith, because his father has been one.' This
custom, however, is not peculiar to our Highlands; it is well known
that in India a similar practice prevails.
Mr M'Aulay began a rhapsody against creeds and confessions. Dr Johnson
shewed, that 'what he called "imposition", was only a voluntary
declaration of agreement in certain articles of faith, which a church
has a right to require, just as any other society can insist on
certain rules being observed by its members. Nobody is compelled to be
of the church, as nobody is compelled to enter into a society.' This
was a very clear and just view of the subject: but, M'Aulay could not
be driven out of his track. Dr Johnson said, 'Sir, you are a BIGOT TO
LAXNESS.'
Mr M'Aulay and I laid the map of Scotland before us; and he pointed
out a rout for us from Inverness, by Fort Augustus, to Glenelg, Sky,
Mull, Icolmkill, Lorn, and Inveraray, which I wrote down. As my father
was to begin the northern circuit about the 18th of September, it was
necessary for us to make our tour with great expedition, so as to get
to Auchinleck before he set out, or to protract it, so as not to be
there till his return, which would be about the 10th of October. By
M'Aulay's calculation, we were not to land in Lorn till the 20th of
September. I thought that the interruptions by bad days, or by
occasional excursions, might make it ten days later; and I thought
too, that we might perhaps go to Benbecula, and visit Clanranald,
which would take a week of itself.
Dr Johnson went up with Mr Grant to the library, which consisted of a
tolerable collection; but the Doctor thought it rather a lady's
library, with some Latin books in it by chance, than the library of a
clergyman. It had only two of the Latin fathers, and one of the Greek
fathers in Latin. I doubted whether Dr Johnson would be present at a
Presbyterian prayer. I told Mr M'Aulay so, and said that the Doctor
might sit in the library while we were at family worship. Mr M'Aulay
said, he would omit it, rather than give Dr Johnson offence: but I
would by no means agree that an excess of politeness, even to so great
a man, should prevent what I esteem as one of the best pious
regulations. I know nothing more beneficial, more comfortable, more
agreeable, than that the little societies of each family should
regularly assemble, and unite in praise and prayer to our heavenly
Father, from whom we daily receive so much good, and may hope for more
in a higher state of existence. I mentioned to Dr Johnson the
over-delicate scrupulosity of our host. He said, he had no objection
to hear the prayer. This was a pleasing surprise to me; for he refused
to go and hear Principal Robertson preach. 'I will hear him,' said he,
'if he will get up into a tree and preach; but I will not give a
sanction, by my presence, to a Presbyterian assembly.'
Mr Grant having prayed, Dr Johnson said, his prayer was a very good
one; but objected to his not having introduced the Lord's Prayer. He
told us, that an Italian of some note in London said once to him, 'We
have in our service a prayer called the Pater Noster, which is a very
fine composition. I wonder who is the author of it.' A singular
instance of ignorance in a man of some literature and general inquiry!
Saturday, 28th August
Dr Johnson had brought a Sallust with him in his pocket from
Edinburgh. He gave it last night to Mr M'Aulay's son, a smart young
lad about eleven years old. Dr Johnson had given an account of the
education at Oxford, in all its gradations. The advantage of being
servitor to a youth of little fortune struck Mrs M'Aulay much. I
observed it aloud. Dr Johnson very handsomely and kindly said, that,
if they would send their boy to him, when he was ready for the
university, he would get him made a servitor, and perhaps would do
more for him. He could not promise to do more; but would undertake for
the servitorship. [Footnote: Dr Johnson did not neglect what he had
undertaken. By his interest with the Rev. Dr Adams, master of Pembroke
College, Oxford, where he was educated for some time, he obtained a
servitorship for young M'Aulay. But it seems he had other views; and I
believe went abroad.]
I should have mentioned that Mr White, a Welchman, who has been many
years factor (i.e. steward) on the estate of Calder, drank tea with us
last night, and upon getting a note from Mr M'Aulay, asked us to his
house. We had not time to accept of his invitation. He gave us a
letter of introduction to Mr Ferne, master of stores at Fort George.
He shewed it to me. It recommended 'two celebrated gentlemen; no less
than Dr Johnson, AUTHOR OF HIS DICTIONARY, and Mr Boswell, known at
Edinburgh by the name of Paoli'. He said, he hoped I had no objection
to what he had written; if I had, he would alter it. I thought it was
a pity to check his effusions, and acquiesced; taking care, however,
to seal the letter, that it might not appear that I had read it.
A conversation took place, about saying grace at breakfast (as we do
in Scotland) as well as at dinner and supper; in which Dr Johnson
said, 'It is enough if we have stated seasons of prayer; no matter
when. A man may as well pray when he mounts his horse, or a woman when
she milks her cow, (which Mr Grant told us is done in the Highlands),
as at meals; and custom is to be followed.' [Footnote: He could not
bear to have it thought that, in any instance whatever, the Scots are
more pious than the English. I think grace as proper at breakfast as
at any other meal. It is the pleasantest meal we have. Dr Johnson has
allowed the peculiar merit of breakfast in Scotland.]
We proceeded to Fort George. When we came into the square, I sent a
soldier with the letter to Mr Ferne. He came to us immediately, and
along with him came Major Brewse of the Engineers, pronounced BRUCE.
He said he believed it was originally the same Norman name with Bruce.
That he had dined at a house in London, where were three Bruces, one
of the Irish line, one of the Scottish line, and himself of the
English line. He said he was shewn it in the Herald's office spelt
fourteen different ways. I told him the different spellings of my
name. Dr Johnson observed, that there had been great disputes about
the spelling of Shakspear's name; at last it was thought it would be
settled by looking at the original copy of his will; but, upon
examining it, he was found to have written it himself no less than
three different ways.
Mr Ferne and Major Brewse first carried us to wait on Sir Eyre Coote,
whose regiment, the 37th, was lying here, and who then commanded the
fort. He asked us to dine with him, which we agreed to do.
Before dinner we examined the fort. The Major explained the
fortification to us, and Mr Ferne gave us an account of the stores. Dr
Johnson talked of the proportions of charcoal and salt-petre in making
gunpowder, of granulating it, and of giving it a gloss. He made a very
good figure upon these topicks. He said to me afterwards, that he had
talked OSTENTATIOUSLY. We reposed ourselves a little in Mr Ferne's
house. He had every thing in neat order as in England; and a tolerable
collection of books. I looked into Pennant's Tour in Scotland. He says
little of this fort; but that 'the barracks, &c. form several
streets'. This is aggrandizing. Mr Ferne observed, if he had said they
form a square, with a row of buildings before it, he would have given
a juster description. Dr Johnson remarked, 'how seldom descriptions
correspond with realities; and the reason is, that people do not write
them till some time after, and then their imagination has added
circumstances'.
We talked of Sir Adolphus Oughton. The Major said, he knew a great
deal for a military man. JOHNSON. 'Sir, you will find few men, of any
profession, who know more. Sir Adolphus is a very extraordinary man; a
man of boundless curiosity and unwearied diligence.'
I know not how the Major contrived to introduce the contest between
Warburton and Lowth. JOHNSON. 'Warburton kept his temper all along,
while Lowth was in a passion. Lowth published some of Warburton's
letters. Warburton drew HIM on to write some very abusive letters, and
then asked his leave to publish them; which he knew Lowth could not
refuse, after what he had done. So that Warburton contrived that he
should publish, apparently with Lowth's consent, what could not but
shew Lowth in a disadvantageous light.' [Footnote: Here Dr Johnson
gave us part of a conversation held between a Great Personage and him,
in the library at the Queen's Palace, to the course of which this
contest was considered. I have been at great pains to get that
conversation as perfectly preserved as possible. It may perhaps at
some future time be given to the publick.]
At three the drum beat for dinner. I, for a little while, fancied
myself a military man, and it pleased me. We went to Sir Eyre Coote's,
at the governour's house, and found him a most gentleman-like man. His
lady is a very agreeable woman, with an uncommonly mild and sweet tone
of voice. There was a pretty large company: Mr Ferne, Major Brewse,
and several officers. Sir Eyre had come from the East Indies by land,
through the Desarts of Arabia. He told us, the Arabs could live five
days without victuals, and subsist for three weeks on nothing else but
the blood of their camels, who could lose so much of it as would
suffice for that time, without being exhausted. He highly praised the
virtue of the Arabs; their fidelity, if they undertook to conduct any
person; and said, they would sacrifice their lives rather than let him
be robbed. Dr Johnson, who is always for maintaining the superiority
of civilized over uncivilized men, said, 'Why, sir, I can see no
superiour virtue in this. A serjeant and twelve men, who are my guard,
will die, rather than that I shall be robbed.' Colonel Pennington, of
the 37th regiment, took up the argument with a good deal of spirit and
ingenuity. PENNINGTON. 'But the soldiers are compelled to this, by
fear of punishment.' JOHNSON. 'Well, sir, the Arabs are compelled by
the fear of infamy.' PENNINGTON. 'The soldiers have the same fear of
infamy, and the fear of punishment besides; so have less virtue;
because they act less voluntarily.' Lady Coote observed very well,
that it ought to be known if there was not, among the Arabs, some
punishment for not being faithful on such occasions.
We talked of the stage. I observed, that we had not now such a company
of actors as in the last age; Wilks, Booth, &c. &c. JOHNSON. 'You
think so, because there is one who excels all the rest so much: you
compare them with Garrick, and see the deficiency. Garrick's great
distinction is his universality. He can represent all modes of life,
but that of an easy fine-bred gentleman.' PENNINGTON. 'He should give
over playing young parts.' JOHNSON. 'He does not take them now; but he
does not leave off those which he has been used to play, because he
does them better than any one else can do them. If you had generations
of actors, if they swarmed like bees, the young ones might drive off
the old. Mrs Gibber, I think, got more reputation than she deserved,
as she had a great sameness; though her expression was undoubtedly
very fine. Mrs Clive was the best player I ever saw. Mrs Pritchard was
a very good one; but she had something affected in her manner: I
imagine she had some player of the former age in her eye, which
occasioned it.'
Colonel Pennington said, Garrick sometimes failed in emphasis; as for
instance, in Hamlet,
I will speak DAGGERS to her; but use NONE,
instead of
I will SPEAK daggers to her; but USE none.
We had a dinner of two complete courses, variety of wines, and the
regimental band of musick playing in the square, before the window,
after it. I enjoyed this day much. We were quite easy and cheerful, Dr
Johnson said, 'I shall always remember this fort with gratitude.' I
could not help being struck with some admiration, at finding upon this
barren sandy point, such buildings, such a dinner, such company: it
was like enchantment. Dr Johnson, on the other hand, said to me more
rationally, that it did not strike HIM as any thing extraordinary;
because he knew, here was a large sum of money expended in building a
fort; here was a regiment. If there had been less than what we found,
it would have surprized him. HE looked coolly and deliberately through
all the gradations: my warm imagination jumped from the barren sands
to the splendid dinner and brilliant company, to borrow the expression
of an absurd poet,
Without ands or ifs,
I leapt from off the sands upon the cliffs.
The whole scene gave me a strong impression of the power and
excellence of human art.
We left the fort between six and seven o'clock: Sir Eyre Coote,
Colonel Pennington, and several more, accompanied us down stairs, and
saw us into our chaise. There could not be greater attention paid to
any visitors. Sir Eyre spoke of the hardships which Dr Johnson had
before him. BOSWELL. 'Considering what he has said of us, we must make
him feel something rough in Scotland.' Sir Eyre said to him, 'You must
change your name, sir.' BOSWELL. 'Ay, to Dr M'Gregor.'
We got safely to Inverness, and put up at Mackenzie's inn. Mr Keith,
the collector of Excise here, my old acquaintance at Ayr, who had seen
us at the fort, visited us in the evening, and engaged us to dine with
him next day, promising to breakfast with us, and take us to the
English chapel; so that we were at once commodiously arranged.
Not finding a letter here that I expected, I felt a momentary
impatience to be at home. Transient clouds darkened my imagination,
and in those clouds I saw events from which I shrunk; but a sentence
or two of the Rambler's conversation gave me firmness, and I
considered that I was upon an expedition for which I had wished for
years, and the recollection of which would be a treasure to me for
life.
Sunday, 29th August
Mr Keith breakfasted with us. Dr Johnson expatiated rather too
strongly upon the benefits derived to Scotland from the Union, and the
bad state of our people before it. I am entertained with his copious
exaggeration upon that subject; but I am uneasy when people are by,
who do not know him as well as I do, and may be apt to think him
narrow-minded. [Footnote: It is remarkable that Dr Johnson read this
gentle remonstrance, and took no notice of it to me.] I therefore
diverted the subject.
The English chapel, to which we went this morning, was but mean. The
altar was a bare fir table, with a coarse stool for kneeling on,
covered with a piece of thick sail-cloth doubled, by way of cushion.
The congregation was small. Mr Tait, the clergyman, read prayers very
well, though with much of the Scotch accent. He preached on 'Love your
Enemies'. It was remarkable that, when talking of the connections
amongst men, he said, that some connected themselves with men of
distinguished talents, and since they could not equal them, tried to
deck themselves with their merit, by being their companions. The
sentence was to this purpose. It had an odd coincidence with what
might be said of my connecting myself with Dr Johnson.
After church, we walked down to the Quay. We then went to Macbeth's
castle. I had a romantick satisfaction in seeing Dr Johnson actually
in it. It perfectly corresponds with Shakspeare's description, which
Sir Joshua Reynolds has so happily illustrated, in one of his notes on
our immortal poet:
This castle hath a pleasant seat: the air
Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself
Unto our gentle sense, &c.
Just as we came out of it, a raven perched on one of the chimney-tops,
and croaked. Then I repeated
'... The raven himself is hoarse.
That croaks the fatal enterance of Duncan
Under my battlements.'
We dined at Mr Keith's. Mrs Keith was rather too attentive to Dr
Johnson, asking him many questions about his drinking only water. He
repressed that observation, by saying to me, 'You may remember that
Lady Errol took no notice of this.'
Dr Johnson has the happy art (for which I have heard my father praise
the old Earl of Aberdeen) of instructing himself, by making every man
he meets tell him something of what he knows best. He led Keith to
talk to him of the Excise in Scotland, and, in the course of
conversation, mentioned that his friend Mr Thrale, the great brewer,
paid twenty thousand pounds a year to the revenue; and that he had
four casks, each of which holds sixteen hundred barrels--above a
thousand hogsheads.
After this there was little conversation that deserves to be
remembered. I shall therefore here again glean what I have omitted on
former days. Dr Gerard, at Aberdeen, told us, that when he was in
Wales, he was shewn a valley inhabited by Danes, who still retain
their own language, and are quite a distinct people. Dr Johnson
thought it could not be true, or all the kingdom must have heard of
it. He said to me, as we travelled, 'these people, sir, that Gerard
talks of, may have somewhat of a PEREGRINITY in their dialect, which
relation has augmented to a different language'. I asked him if
peregrinity was an English word: he laughed, and said, 'No.' I told
him this was the second time that I had heard him coin a word. When
Foote broke his leg, I observed that it would make him fitter for
taking off George Faulkner as Peter Paragragh, poor George having a
wooden leg. Dr Johnson at that time said, 'George will rejoice at the
DEPEDITATION of Foote'; and when I challenged that word, laughed, and
owned he had made it, and added that he had not made above three or
four in his dictionary. [Footnote: When upon the subject of this
PEREGRINITY, he told me some particulars concerning the compilation of
his Dictionary, and concerning his throwing off Lord Chesterfield's
patronage, of which very erroneous accounts have been circulated.
These particulars, with others which he afterwards gave me--as also
his celebrated letter to lord Chesterfield, which he dictated to me--I
reserve for his Life.]
Having conducted Dr Johnson to our inn, I begged permission to leave
him for a little, that I might run about and pay some short visits to
several good people of Inverness. He said to me, 'You have all the
old-fashioned principles, good and bad.' I acknowledge I have. That of
attention to relations in the remotest degree, or to worthy persons,
in every state whom I have once known, I inherit from my father. It
gave me much satisfaction to hear every body at Inverness speak of him
with uncommon regard. Mr Keith and Mr Grant, whom we had seen at Mr
M'Aulay's, supped with us at the inn. We had roasted kid, which Dr
Johnson had never tasted before. He relished it much.
Monday, 30th August
This day we were to begin our EQUITATION, as I said; for _I_ would
needs make a word too. It is remarkable, that my noble, and to me most
constant friend, the Earl of Pembroke (who, if there is too much ease
on my part, will please to pardon what his benevolent, gay, social
intercourse, and lively correspondence, have insensibly produced) has
since hit upon the very same word. The title of the first edition of
his lordship's very useful book was, in simple terms, A Method of
Breaking Horses and Teaching Soldiers to Ride. The title of the second
edition is, Military Equitation.
We might have taken a chaise to Fort Augustus, but, had we not hired
horses at Inverness, we should not have found them afterwards: so we
resolved to begin here to ride. We had three horses, for Dr Johnson,
myself, and Joseph, and one which carried our portmanteaus, and two
Highlanders who walked along with us, John Hay and Lauchland Vass,
whom Dr Johnson has remembered with credit in his Journey, though he
has omitted their names. Dr Johnson rode very well.
About three miles beyond Inverness, we saw, just by the road, a very
complete specimen of what is called a Druid's temple. There was a
double circle, one of very large, the other of smaller stones. Dr
Johnson justly observed, that, 'to go and see one druidical temple is
only to see that it is nothing, for there is neither art nor power in
it; and seeing one is quite enough'.
It was a delightful day. Lochness, and the road upon the side of it,
shaded with birch trees, and the hills above it, pleased us much. The
scene was as sequestered and agreeably wild as could be desired, and
for a time engrossed all our attention.
To see Dr Johnson in any new situation is always an interesting object
to me; and, as I saw him now for the first time on horseback, jaunting
about at his ease in quest of pleasure and novelty, the very different
occupations of his former laborious life, his admirable productions,
his London, his Rambler, &c. &c. immediately presented themselves to
my mind, and the contrast made a strong impression on my imagination.
When we had advanced a good way by the side of Lochness, I perceived a
little hut, with an old looking woman at the door of it. I thought
here might be a scene that would amuse Dr Johnson: so I mentioned it
to him. 'Let's go in,' said he. We dismounted, and we and our guides
entered the hut. It was a wretched little hovel of earth only, I
think, and for a window had only a small hole, which was stopped with
a piece of turf, that was taken out occasionally to let in light. In
the middle of the room or space which we entered, was a fire of peat,
the smoke going out at a hole in the roof. She had a pot upon it, with
goat's flesh, boiling. There was at one end under the same roof, but
divided by a kind of partition made of wattles, a pen or fold in which
we saw a good many kids.
Dr Johnson was curious to know where she slept. I asked one of the
guides, who questioned her in Erse. She answered with a tone of
emotion, saying (as he told us) she was afraid we wanted to go to bed
to her. This coquetry, or whatever it may be called, of so wretched a
being, was truly ludicrous. Dr Johnson and I afterwards were merry
upon it. I said, it was he who alarmed the poor woman's virtue. 'No,
sir,' said he, 'she'll say, '"There came a wicked young fellow, a wild
dog, who I believe would have ravished me, had there not been with him
a grave old gentleman, who repressed him: but when he gets out of the
sight of his tutor, I'll warrant you he'll spare no woman he meets,
young or old."' 'No, sir,' I replied, 'she'll say, "There was a
terrible ruffian who would have forced me, had it not been for a civil
decent young man who, I take it, was an angel sent from heaven to
protect me."'
Dr Johnson would not hurt her delicacy, by insisting on 'seeing her
bedchamber', like Archer in The Beaux' Stratagem. But my curiosity was
more ardent; I lighted a piece of paper, and went into the place where
the bed was. There was a little partition of wicker, rather more
neatly done than that for the fold, and close by the wall was a kind
of bedstead of wood with heath upon it by way of bed; at the foot of
which I saw some sort of blankets or covering rolled up in a heap. The
woman's name was Fraser; so was her husband's. He was a man of eighty.
Mr Fraser of Balnain allows him to live in this hut, and keep sixty
goats, for taking care of his woods, where he then was. They had five
children, the eldest only thirteen. Two were gone to Inverness to buy
meal; the rest were looking after the goats. This contented family had
four stacks of barley, twenty-four sheaves in each. They had a few
fowls. We were informed that they lived all the spring without meal,
upon milk and curds and whey alone. What they get for their goats,
kids, and fowls, maintains them during the rest of the year.
She asked us to sit down and take a dram. I saw one chair. She said
she was as happy as any woman in Scotland. She could hardly speak any
English except a few detached words. Dr Johnson was pleased at seeing,
for the first time, such a state of human life. She asked for snuff.
It is her luxury, and she uses a great deal. We had none; but gave her
six pence a piece. She then brought out her whisky bottle. I tasted
it; as did Joseph and our guides: so I gave her sixpence more. She
sent us away with many prayers in Erse.
We dined at a publick house called the General's Hut, from General
Wade, who was lodged there when he commanded in the North. Near it is
the meanest parish kirk I ever saw. It is a shame it should be on a
high road. After dinner, we passed through a good deal of mountainous
country. I had known Mr Trapaud, the deputy governour of Fort
Augustus, twelve years ago, at a circuit at Inverness, where my father
was judge. I sent forward one of our guides, and Joseph, with a card
to him, that he might know Dr Johnson and I were coming up, leaving it
to him to invite us or not. It was dark when we arrived. The inn was
wretched. Government ought to build one, or give the resident
governour an additional salary; as in the present state of things, he
must necessarily be put to a great expence in entertaining travellers.
Joseph announced to us, when we alighted, that the governour waited
for us at the gate of the fort. We walked to it. He met us, and with
much civility conducted us to his house. It was comfortable to find
ourselves in a well built little square, and a neatly furnished house,
in good company, and with a good supper before us; in short, with all
the conveniencies of civilized life in the midst of rude mountains.
Mrs Trapaud, and the governour's daughter, and her husband. Captain
Newmarsh, were all most obliging and polite. The governour had
excellent animal spirits, the conversation of a soldier, and somewhat
of a Frenchman, to which his extraction entitles him. He is brother to
General Cyrus Trapaud. We passed a very agreeable evening.
Tuesday, 31st August
The governour has a very good garden. We looked at it, and at the rest
of the fort, which is but small, and may be commanded from a variety
of hills around. We also looked at the galley or sloop belonging to
the fort, which sails upon the Loch, and brings what is wanted for the
garrison. Captains Urie and Darippe, of the 15th regiment of foot,
breakfasted with us. They had served in America, and entertained Dr
Johnson much with an account of the Indians. He said, he could make a
very pretty book out of them, were he to stay there. Governour Trapaud
was much struck with Dr Johnson. 'I like to hear him,' said he; 'it is
so majestick. I should be glad to hear him speak in your court.' He
pressed us to stay dinner; but I considered that we had a rude road
before us, which we could more easily encounter in the morning, and
that it was hard to say when we might get up, were we to sit down to
good entertainment, in good company: I therefore begged the governour
would excuse us. Here too, I had another very pleasing proof how much
my father is regarded. The governour expressed the highest respect for
him, and bade me tell him, that, if he would come that way on the
northern circuit, he would do him all the honours of the garrison.
Between twelve and one we set out, and travelled eleven miles, through
a wild country, till we came to a house in Glenmorison, called Anoch,
kept by a M'Queen. [Footnote: A M'Queen is a Highland mode of
expression. An Englishman would say ONE M'Queen. But where there are
clans or tribes of men, distinguished by patronymick surnames, the
individuals of each are considered as if they were of different
species, at least as much as nations are distinguished; so that a
M'QUEEN, a M'DONALD, a M'LEAN, is said, as we say a Frenchman, an
Italian, a Spaniard.] Our landlord was a sensible fellow: he had
learnt his grammar, and Dr Johnson justly observed, that 'a man is the
better for that as long as he lives.' There were some books here: a
Treatise against Drunkenness, translated from the French; a volume of
the Spectator; a volume of Prideaux's Connection, and Cyrus's Travels.
M'Queen said he had more volumes; and his pride seemed to be much
piqued that we were surprised at his having books.
Near to this place we had passed a party of soldiers, under a
serjeant's command, at work upon the road. We gave them two shillings
to drink. They came to our inn, and made merry in the barn. We went
and paid them a visit, Dr Johnson saying, 'Come, let's go and give 'em
another shilling a-piece.' We did so; and he was saluted 'My Lord' by
all of them. He is really generous, loves influence, and has the way
of gaining it. He said, 'I am quite feudal, sir.' Here I agree with
him. I said, I regretted I was not the head of a clan; however, though
not possessed of such an hereditary advantage, I would always
endeavour to make my tenants follow me. I could not be a PATRIARCHAL
chief, but I would be a FEUDAL chief.
The poor soldiers got too much liquor. Some of them fought, and left
blood upon the spot, and cursed whisky next morning. The house here
was built of thick turfs, and thatched with thinner turfs and heath.
It had three rooms in length, and a little room which projected. Where
we sat, the side-walls were WAINSCOTTED, as Dr Johnson said, with
wicker, very neatly plaited. Our landlord had made the whole with his
own hands.
After dinner, M'Queen sat by us a while, and talked with us. He said,
all the Laird of Glenmorison's people would bleed for him, if they
were well used; but that seventy men had gone out of the Glen to
America. That he himself intended to go next year; for that the rent
of his farm, which twenty years ago was only five pounds, was now
raised to twenty pounds. That he could pay ten pounds, and live; but
no more. Dr Johnson said, he wished M'Queen Laird of Glenmorison, and
the laird to go to America. M'Queen very generously answered, he
should be sorry for it; for the laird could not shift for himself in
America as he could do.
I talked of the officers whom we had left to day; how much service
they had seen, and how little they got for it, even of fame. JOHNSON.
'Sir, a soldier gets as little as any man can get.' BOSWELL.
'Goldsmith has acquired more fame than all the officers last war, who
were not Generals.' JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, you will find ten thousand fit
to do what they did, before you find one who does what Goldsmith has
done. You must consider, that a thing is valued according to its
rarity. A pebble that paves the street is in itself more useful than
the diamond upon a lady's finger.' I wish our friend Goldsmith had
heard this.
I yesterday expressed my wonder that John Hay, one of our guides, who
had been pressed aboard a man of war, did not choose to continue in it
longer than nine months, after which time he got off. JOHNSON. 'Why,
sir, no man will be a sailor, who has contrivance enough to get
himself into a jail; for, being in a ship is being in a jail, with the
chance of being drowned.'
We had tea in the afternoon, and our landlord's daughter, a modest
civil girl, very neatly drest, made it for us. She told us, she had
been a year at Inverness, and learnt reading and writing, sewing,
knotting, working lace, and pastry. Dr Johnson made her a present of a
book which he had bought at Inverness. [Footnote: This book has given
rise to much inquiry, which has ended in ludicrous surprise. Several
ladies, wishing to learn the kind of reading which the great and good
Dr Johnson esteemed most fit for a young woman, desired to know what
book he had selected for this Highland nymph. They never adverted,'
said he, 'that I had no CHOICE in the matter. I have said that I
presented her with a book which I HAPPENED to have about me.' And what
was this book? My readers, prepare your features for merriment. It was
Cocker's Arithmetick! Wherever this was mentioned, there was a loud
laugh, at which Dr Johnson, when present used sometimes to be a little
angry. One day, when we were dining at General Oglethorpe's, where we
had many a valuable day, I ventured to interrogate him, 'But, sir, is
it not somewhat singular that you should HAPPEN to have Cocker's
Arithmetick about you on your journey? What made you buy such a book
at Inverness?' He gave me a very sufficient answer. 'Why, sir, if you
are to have but one book with you upon a Journey, let it be a book of
science. When you have read through a book of entertainment, you know
it, and it can do no more for you; but a book of science is
inexhaustible.']
The room had some deals laid across the joists, as a kind of ceiling.
There were two beds in the room, and a woman's gown was hung on a rope
to make a curtain of separation between them. Joseph had sheets, which
my wife had sent with us, laid on them. We had much hesitation,
whether to undress, or lie down with our clothes on. I said at last.
'I'll plunge in! There will be less harbour for vermin about me, when
I am stripped!' Dr Johnson said, he was like one hesitating whether to
go into the cold bath. At last he resolved too. I observed, he might
serve a campaign. JOHNSON. 'I could do all that can be done by
patience: whether I should have strength enough, I know not.' He was
in excellent humour. To see the Rambler as I saw him tonight, was really
an amusement. I yesterday told him, I was thinking of writing a poetical
letter to him. On his Return from Scotland, in the stile of Swift's
humorous epistle in the character of Mary Gulliver to her husband,
Captain Lemuel Gulliver, on his return to England from the country of
the Houyhnhums:
At early morn I to the market haste,
Studious in ev'ry thing to please thy taste.
A curious FOWL and SPARAGRASS I chose;
(For I remember you were fond of those:)
Three shillings cost the first, the last sev'n groats;
Sullen you turn from both, and call for OATS.
He laughed, and asked in whose name I would write it. I said, in Mrs
Thrale's. He was angry. 'Sir, if you have any sense of decency or
delicacy, you won't do that!' BOSWELL. 'Then let it be in Cole's, the
landlord of the Mitre tavern; where we have so often sat together.'
JOHNSON. 'Ay, that may do.'
After we had offered up our private devotions, and had chatted a
little from our beds, Dr Johnson said, 'God bless us both, for Jesus
Christ's sake! Good night!' I pronounced 'Amen.' He fell asleep
immediately. I was not so fortunate for a long time. I fancied myself
bit by innumerable vermin under the clothes; and that a spider was
travelling from the wainscot towards my mouth. At last I fell into
insensibility.
Wednesday, 1st September
I awaked very early. I began to imagine that the landlord, being about
to emigrate, might murder us to get our money, and lay it upon the
soldiers in the barn. Such groundless fears will arise in the mind,
before it has resumed its vigour after sleep! Dr Johnson had had the
same kind of ideas; for he told me afterwards, that he considered so
many soldiers, having seen us, would be witnesses, should any harm be
done, and that circumstance, I suppose, 'he considered as a security.
When I got up, I found him sound asleep in his miserable stye, as I
may call it, with a coloured handkerchief tied round his head. With
difficulty could I awaken him. It reminded me of Henry the Fourth's
fine soliloquy on sleep; for there was here as 'uneasy a pallet' as
the poet's imagination could possibly conceive.
A red coat of the 15th regiment, whether officer, or only serjeant, I
could not be sure, came to the house, in his way to the mountains to
shoot deer, which it seems the Laird of Glenmorison does not hinder
any body to do. Few, indeed, can do them harm. We had him to breakfast
with us. We got away about eight. M'Queen walked some miles to give us
a convoy. He had, in 1745, joined the Highland army at Fort Augustus,
and continued in it till after the battle of Culloden. As he narrated
the particulars of that ill-advised, but brave attempt, I could not
refrain from tears. There is a certain association of ideas in my mind
upon that subject, by which I am strongly affected. The very Highland
names, or the sound of a bagpipe; will stir my blood, and fill me with
a mixture of melancholy and respect for courage; with pity for an
unfortunate and superstitious regard for antiquity, and thoughtless
inclination for war; in short, with a crowd of sensations with which
sober rationality has nothing to do.
We passed through Glensheal, with prodigious mountains on each side.
We saw where the battle was fought in the year 1719; Dr Johnson owned
he was now in a scene of as wild nature as he could see; but he
corrected me sometimes in my inaccurate observations. 'There,' said I,
'is a mountain like a cone.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir. It would be called so
in a book; and when a man comes to look at it, he sees it is not so.
It is indeed pointed at the top; but one side of it is larger than the
other.' Another mountain I called immense. JOHNSON. 'No; it is no more
than a considerable protuberance.'
We came to a rich green valley, comparatively speaking, and stopped a
while to let our horses rest and eat grass. [Footnote: Dr Johnson, in
his Journey, thus beautifully describes his situation here: 'I sat
down on a bank, such as a writer of romance might have delighted to
feign. I had, indeed, no trees to whisper over my head; but a clear
rivulet streamed at my feet. The day was calm, the air soft, and all
was rudeness, silence, and solitude. Before me, and on either side,
were high hills, which, by hindering the eye from ranging, forced the
mind to find entertainment for itself. Whether I spent the hour well,
I know not: for here I first conceived the thought of this narration.'
The Critical Reviewers, with a spirit and expression worthy of the
subject, say, 'We congratulate the publick on the event with which
this quotation concludes, and are fully persuaded that the hour in
which the entertaining traveller conceived this narrative will be
considered, by every reader of taste, as a fortunate event in the
annals of literature. Were it suitable to the talk in which we are at
present engaged, to indulge ourselves in a poetical flight, we would
invoke the winds of the Caledonian mountains to blow for ever, with
their softest breezes, on the bank where our author reclined, and
request of Flora, that it might be perpetually adorned with the gayest
and most fragrant productions of the year.'] We soon afterwards came
to Auchnasheal, a kind of rural village, a number of cottages being
built together, as we saw all along in the Highlands. We passed many
miles this day without seeing a house, but only little summer-huts,
called shielings. Evan Campbell, servant to Mr Murchison, factor to
the Laird of Macleod in Glenelg, ran along with us to-day. He was a
very obliging fellow. At Auchnasheal, we sat down on a green turf-seat
at the end of a house; they brought us out two wooden dishes of milk,
which we tasted. One of them was frothed like a syllabub. I saw a
woman preparing it with such a stick as is used for chocolate, and in
the same manner. We had a considerable circle about us, men, women and
children, all M'Craas, Lord Seaforth's people. Not one of them could
speak English. I observed to Dr Johnson, it was much the same as being
with a tribe of Indians. JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; but not so terrifying.' I
gave all who chose it, snuff and tobacco. Governour Trapaud had made
us buy a quantity at Fort Augustus, and put them up in small parcels.
I also gave each person a bit of wheat bread, which they had never
tasted before. I then gave a penny apiece to each child. I told Dr
Johnson of this; upon which he called to Joseph and our guides, for
change for a shilling, and declared that he would distribute among the
children. Upon this being announced in Erse, there was a great stir;
not only did some children come running down from neighbouring huts,
but I observed one black-haired man, who had been with us all along,
had gone off, and returned, bringing a very young child. My fellow
traveller then ordered the children to be drawn up in a row; and he
dealt about his copper, and made them and their parents all happy. The
poor M'Craas, whatever may be their present state, were of
considerable estimation in the year 1715, when there was a line in a
song.
And aw the brave M'Craas are coming.
[Footnote: The M'Craas, or Macraes, were since that time brought into
the king's army, by the late Lord Seaforth. When they lay in Edinburgh
castle in 1778, and were ordered to embark for Jersey, they with a
number of other men in the regiment, for different reasons, but
especially an apprehension that they were to be sold to the East-India
Company, though enlisted not to be sent out of Great-Britain without
their own consent, made a determined mutiny and encamped upon the
lofty mountain, Arthur's Seat, where they remained three days and
three nights; bidding defiance to all the force in Scotland. At last
they came down, and embarked peaceably, having obtained formal
articles of capitulation, signed by Sir Adolphus Oughton, commander in
chief, General Skene, deputy commander, the Duke of Buccleugh, and the
Earl of Dunmore, which quieted them. Since the secession of the
Commons of Rome to the Mons Sacer, a more spirited exertion has not
been made. I gave great attention to it from first to last, and have
drawn up a particular account of it. Those brave fellows have since
served their country effectually at Jersey, and also in the East
Indies, to which, alter being better informed, they voluntarily agreed
to go.]
There was great diversity in the faces of the circle around us: Some
were as black and wild in their appearance as any American savages
whatever. One woman was as comely almost as the figure of Sappho, as
we see it painted. We asked the old woman, the mistress of the house
where we had the milk, (which by the bye, Dr Johnson told me, for I
did not observe it myself, was built not of turf, but of stone,) what
we should pay. She said, what we pleased. One of our guides asked her,
in Erse, if a shilling was enough. She said, 'Yes.' But some of the
men bade her ask more. This vexed me; because it shewed a desire to
impose upon strangers, as they knew that even a shilling was high
payment. The woman, however, honestly persisted in her price; so I
gave her half a crown. Thus we had one good scene of life uncommon to
us. The people were very much pleased, gave us many blessings, and
said they had not had such a day since the old Laird of Macleod's
time.
Dr Johnson was much refreshed by this repast. He was pleased when I
told him he would make a good chief. He said, 'Were I a chief, I would
dress my servants better than myself, and knock a fellow down if he
looked saucy to a Macdonald in rags: but I would not treat men as
brutes. I would let them know why all of my clan were to have
attention paid to them. I would tell my upper servants why, and make
them tell the others.'
We rode on well, till we came to the high mountain called the
Rattakin, by which time both Dr Johnson and the horses were a good
deal fatigued. It is a terrible steep climb, notwithstanding the road
is formed slanting along it; however, we made it out. On the top of it
we met Captain M'Leod of Balmenoch (a Dutch officer who had come from
Sky) riding with his sword slung across him. He asked, 'Is this Mr
Boswell?' which was a proof that we were expected. Going down the hill
on the other side was no easy task. As Dr Johnson was a great weight,
the two guides agreed that he should ride the horses alternately.
Hay's were the two best, and the Doctor would not ride but upon one or
other of them, a black or a brown. But, as Hay complained much after
ascending the Rattakin, the Doctor was prevailed with to mount one of
Vass's greys. As he rode upon it down hill, it did not go well; and he
grumbled. I walked on a little before, but was excessively entertained
with the method taken to keep him in good humour. Hay led the horse's
head, talking to Dr Johnson as much as he could; and (having heard
him, in the forenoon, express a pastoral pleasure on seeing the goats
browzing) just when the Doctor was uttering his displeasure, the
fellow cried, with a very Highland accent, 'See such pretty goats!'
Then he whistled, WHU! and made them jump. Little did he conceive what
Doctor Johnson was. Here now was a common ignorant Highland clown
imagining that he could divert, as one does a child, DR SAMUEL
JOHNSON! The ludicrousness, absurdity, and extraordinary contrast
between what the fellow fancied, and the reality, was truly comick. It
grew dusky; and we had a very tedious ride for what was called five
miles; but I am sure would measure ten. We had no conversation. I was
riding forward to the inn at Glenelg, on the shore opposite to Sky,
that I might take proper measures, before Dr Johnson, who was now
advancing in dreary silence, Hay leading his horse, should arrive.
Vass also walked by the side of his horse, and Joseph followed behind:
as therefore he was thus attended, and seemed to be in deep
meditation, I thought there could be no harm in leaving him for a
little while. He called me back with a tremendous shout, and was
really in a passion with me for leaving him. I told him my intentions,
but he was not satisfied, and said, 'Do you know, I should as soon
have thought of picking a pocket, as doing so.' BOSWELL. 'I am
diverted with you, sir.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, I could never be diverted with
incivility. Doing such a thing, makes one lose confidence in him who
has done it, as one cannot tell what he may do next.' His
extraordinary warmth confounded me so much, that I justified myself
but lamely to him; yet my intentions were not improper. I wished to
get on, to see how we were to be lodged, and how we were to get a
boat; all which I thought I could best settle myself, without his
having any trouble. To apply his great mind to minute particulars, is
wrong: it is like taking an immense balance, such as is kept on quays
for weighing cargoes of ships, to weigh a guinea. I knew I had neat
little scales, which would do better; and that his attention to every
thing which falls in his way, and his uncommon desire to be always in
the right, would make him weigh, if he knew of the particulars: it was
right therefore for me to weigh them, and let him have them only in
effect. I however continued to ride by him, finding he wished I should
do so.
As we passed the barracks at Bernea, I looked at them wishfully, as
soldiers have always every thing in the best order: but there was only
a serjeant and a few men there. We came on to the inn at Glenelg.
There was no provender for our horses: so they were sent to grass,
with a man to watch them. A maid shewed us up stairs into a room damp
and dirty, with bare walls, a variety of bad smells, a coarse black
greasy fir table, and forms of the same kind; and out of a wretched
bed started a fellow from his sleep, like Edgar in King Lear, 'Poor
Tom's a-cold'. [Footnote: It is amusing to observe the different
images which this being presented to Dr Johnson and me. The Doctor, in
his Journey, compares him to a Cyclops.]
This inn was furnished with not a single article that we could either
eat or drink; but Mr Murchison, factor to the Laird of Macleod in
Glenelg, sent us a bottle of rum and some sugar, with a polite
message, to acquaint us, that he was very sorry that he did not hear
of us till we had passed his house, otherwise he should have insisted
on our sleeping there that night; and that, if he were not obliged to
set out for Inverness early next morning, he would have waited upon
us. Such extraordinary attention from this gentleman, to entire
strangers, deserves the most honourable commemoration.
Our bad accommodation here made me uneasy, and almost fretful. Dr
Johnson was calm. I said, he was so from vanity. JOHNSON. 'No, sir, it
is from philosophy.' It pleased me to see that the Rambler could
practise so well his own lessons.
I resumed the subject of my leaving him on the road, and endeavoured
to defend it better. He was still violent upon that head, and said,
'Sir, had you gone on, I was thinking that I should have returned with
you to Edinburgh, and then have parted from you, and never spoken to
you more.'
I sent for fresh hay, with which we made beds for ourselves, each in a
room, equally miserable. Like Wolfe, we had a 'choice of
difficulties'. Dr Johnson made things easier by comparison. At
M'Queen's, last night, he observed, that few were so well lodged in a
ship. To-night he said, we were better than if we had been upon the
hill. He lay down buttoned up in his great coat. I had my sheets
spread on the hay, and my clothes and great coat laid over me, by way
of blankets.
Thursday, 2d September
I had slept ill. Dr Johnson's anger had affected me much. I considered
that, without any bad intention, I might suddenly forfeit his
friendship; and was impatient to see him this morning. I told him how
uneasy he had made me, by what he had said, and reminded him of his
own remark at Aberdeen, upon old friendships being hastily broken off.
He owned, he had spoken to me in passion; that he would not have done
what he threatened; and that, if he had, he should have been ten times
worse than I; that forming intimacies, would indeed be 'limning the
water', were they liable to such sudden dissolution; and he added,
'Let's think no more on't.' BOSWELL. 'Well then, sir, I shall be easy.
Remember, I am to have fair warning in case of any quarrel. You are
never to spring a mine upon me. It was absurd in me to believe you.'
JOHNSON. 'You deserved about as much, as to believe me from night to
morning.' After breakfast, we got into a boat for Sky. It rained much
when we set off, but cleared up as we advanced. One of the boatmen,
who spoke English, said, that a mile at land was two miles at sea. I
then observed, that from Glenelg to Armidale in Sky, which was our
present course, and is called twelve, was only six miles: but this he
could not understand. 'Well,' said Dr Johnson, 'never talk to me of
the native good sense of the Highlanders. Here is a fellow who calls
one mile two, and yet cannot comprehend that twelve such imaginary
miles make in truth but six.'
We reached the shore of Armidale before one o'clock. Sir Alexander
M'Donald came down to receive us. He and his lady (formerly Miss
Bosville of Yorkshire) were then in a house built by a tenant at this
place, which is in the district of Slate, the family mansion here
having been burned in Sir Donald Macdonald's time.
The most ancient seat of the chief of the Macdonalds in the Isle of
Sky was at Duntulm, where there are the remains of a stately castle.
The principal residence of the family is now at Mugstot, at which
there is a considerable building. Sir Alexander and Lady Macdonald had
come to Armidale in their way to Edinburgh, where it was necessary for
them to be soon after this time.
Armidale is situated on a pretty bay of the narrow sea, which flows
between the main land of Scotland and the Isle of Sky. In front there
is a grand prospect of the rude mountains of Moidart and Knoidart.
Behind are hills gently rising and covered with a finer verdure than I
expected to see in this climate, and the scene is enlivened by a
number of little clear brooks.
Sir Alexander Macdonald having been an Eton scholar, and being a
gentleman of talents, Dr Johnson had been very well pleased with him
in London. But my fellow traveller and I were now full of the old
Highland spirit, and were dissatisfied at hearing of racked rents and
emigration; and finding a chief not surrounded by his clan. Dr Johnson
said, 'Sir, the Highland chiefs should not be allowed to go farther
south than Aberdeen. A strong-minded man, like Sir James Macdonald,
may be improved by an English education; but in general, they will be
tamed into insignificance.'
We found here Mr Janes of Aberdeenshire, a naturalist. Janes said he
had been at Dr Johnson's in London, with Ferguson the astronomer.
JOHNSON. 'It is strange that, in such distant places, I should meet
with any one who knows me. I should have thought I might hide myself
in Sky.'
Friday, 3d September
This day proving wet, we should have passed our time very
uncomfortably, had we not found in the house two chests of books,
which we eagerly ransacked. After dinner, when I alone was left at
table with the few Highland gentlemen who were of the company, having
talked with very high respect of Sir James Macdonald, they were all so
much affected as to shed tears. One of them was Mr Donald Macdonald,
who had been lieutenant of grenadiers in the Highland regiment, raised
by Colonel Montgomery, now Earl of Eglintoune, in the war before last;
one of those regiments which the late Lord Chatham prided himself in
having brought from 'the mountains of the north': by doing which he
contributed to extinguish in the Highlands the remains of disaffection
to the present Royal Family. From this gentleman's conversation, I
first learnt how very popular his Colonel was among the Highlanders;
of which I had such continued proofs, during the whole course of my
tour, that on my return I could not help telling the noble Earl
himself, that I did not before know how great a man he was.
We were advised by some persons here to visit Rasay, in our way to
Dunvegan, the seat of the Laird of Macleod. Being informed that the
Rev. Mr Donald M'Queen was the most intelligent man in Sky, and having
been favoured with a letter of introduction to him, by the learned Sir
James Foulis, I sent it to him by an express, and requested he would
meet us at Rasay; and at the same time enclosed a letter to the Laird
of Macleod, informing him that we intended in a few days to have the
honour of waiting on him at Dunvegan.
Dr Johnson this day endeavoured to obtain some knowledge of the state
of the country; but complained that he could get no distinct
information about any thing, from those with whom he conversed.
Saturday, 4th September
My endeavours to rouse the English-bred chieftain, in whose house we
were, to the feudal and patriarchal feelings, proving ineffectual, Dr
Johnson this morning tried to bring him to our way of thinking.
JOHNSON. 'Were I in your place, sir, in seven years I would make this
an independant island. I would roast oxen whole, and hang out a flag
as a signal to the Macdonalds to come and get beef and whisky.' Sir
Alexander was still starting difficulties. JOHNSON. 'Nay, sir; if you
are born to object, I have done with you. Sir, I would have a magazine
of arms.' SIR ALEXANDER. 'They would rust.' JOHNSON. 'Let there be men
to keep them clean. Your ancestors did not use to let their arms
rust.'
We attempted in vain to communicate to him a portion of our
enthusiasm. He bore with so polite a good-nature our warm, and what
some might call Gothick, expostulations, on this subject, that I
should not forgive myself, were I to record all that Dr Johnson's
ardour led him to say. This day was little better than a blank.
Sunday, 5th September
I walked to the parish church of Slate, which is a very poor one.
There are no church bells in the island. I was told there were once
some; what has become of them, I could not learn. The minister not
being at home, there was no service. I went into the church and saw
the monument of Sir James Macdonald, which was elegantly executed at
Rome, and has the following inscription, written by his friend, George
Lord Lyttelton:
To the memory
Of SIR JAMES MACDONALD, BART.
Who in the flower of youth,
Had attained to so eminent a degree of knowledge
in Mathematics, Philosophy, Languages,
And in every other branch of useful and polite learning.
As few have acquired in a long life
Wholly devoted to study:
Yet to this erudition he joined
What can rarely be found with it.
Great talents for business,
Great propriety of behaviour,
Great politeness of manners!
His eloquence was sweet, correct, and flowing;
His memory vast and exact;
His judgement strong and acute;
All which endowments, united
With the most amiable temper
And every private virtue,
Procured him, not only in his own country,
But also from foreign nations,
The highest marks of esteem.
In the year of our Lord
1766,
The 25th of his life,
After a long and extremely painful illness,
Which he supported with admirable patience and fortitude,
He died at Rome,
Where, notwithstanding the difference of religion.
Such extraordinary honours were paid to his memory,
As had never graced that of any other British subject,
Since the death of Sir Philip Sydney.
The fame he left behind him is the best consolation
To his afflicted family,
And to his countrymen in this isle.
For whose benefit he had planned
Many useful improvements,
Which his fruitful genius suggested.
And his active spirit promoted.
Under the sober direction
Of a clear and enlightened understanding.
Reader, bewail our loss,
And that of all Britain.
In testimony of her love,
And as the best return she can make
To her departed son.
For the constant tenderness and affection
Which, even to his last moments,
He shewed for her.
His much afflicted mother.
The LADY MARGARET MACDONALD,
Daughter to the EARL of EGLINTOUNE,
Erected this Monument,
A.D. 1768.
[Footnote: This extraordinary young man, whom I had the pleasure of
knowing intimately, having been deeply regretted by his country, the
most minute particulars concerning him must be interesting to many. I
shall therefore insert his two last letters to his mother. Lady
Margaret Macdonald, which her ladyship has been pleased to communicate
to me.
Rome, July 9th, 1766.
My Dear Mother,
Yesterday's post brought me your answer to the first letter in which I
acquainted you of my illness. Your tenderness and concern upon that
account are the same I have always experienced, and to which I have
often owed my life. Indeed it never was in so great danger as it has
been lately; and though it would have been a very great comfort to me
to have had you near me, yet perhaps I ought to rejoice, on your
account, that you had not the pain of such a spectacle. I have been
now a week in Rome, and wish I could continue to give you the same
good accounts of my recovery as I did in my last: but I must own that
for three days past. I have been in a very weak and miserable state,
which however seems to give no uneasiness to my physician. My stomach
has been greatly out of order, without any visible cause; and the
palpitation does not decrease. I am told that my stomach will soon
recover its tone, and that the palpitation must cease in time. So I am
willing to believe; and with this hope support the little remains of
spirits which I can be supposed to have, on the forty-seventh day of
such an illness. Do not imagine I have relapsed--I only recover slower
than I expected. If my letter is shorter than usual, the cause of it
is a dose of physick, which has weakened me so much to-day, that I am
not able to write a long letter. I will make up for it next post, and
remain always
Your most sincerely affectionate son,
J. Macdonald.
He grew gradually worse; and on the night before his death he wrote as
follows from Frescati:
My Dear Mother,
Though I did not mean to deceive you in my last letter from Rome, yet
certainly you would have very little reason to conclude of the very
great and constant danger I have gone through ever since that time. My
life, which is still almost entirely desperate, did not at that time
appear to me so, otherwise I should have represented, in its true
colours, a fact which acquires very little horror by that means, and
comes with redoubled force by deception. There is no circumstance of
danger and pain of which I have not had the experience, for a
continued series of above a fortnight; during which time I have
settled my affairs, after my death, with as much distinctness as the
hurry and the nature of the thing could admit of. In case of the
worst, the Abbe Grant will be my executor in this part of the world,
and Mr Mackenzie in Scotland, where my object has been to make you and
my younger brother as independent of the eldest as possible.]
Dr Johnson said, the inscription should have been in Latin, as every
thing intended to be universal and permanent, should be.
This being a beautiful day, my spirits were cheered by the mere effect
of climate. I had felt a return of spleen during my stay at Armidale,
and had it not been that I had Dr Johnson to contemplate, I should
have sunk into dejection; but his firmness supported me. I looked at
him, as a man whose head is turning giddy at sea looks at a rock, or
any fixed object. I wondered at his tranquillity. He said, 'Sir, when
a man retires into an island, he is to turn his thoughts intirely to
another world. He has done with this.' BOSWELL. 'It appears to me,
sir, to be very difficult to unite a due attention to this world, and
that which is to come; for, if we engage eagerly in the affairs of
life, we are apt to be totally forgetful of a future state; and, on
the other hand, a steady contemplation of the awful concerns of
eternity renders all objects here so insignificant, as to make us
indifferent and negligent about them.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, Dr Cheyne has
laid down a rule to himself on this subject, which should be imprinted
on every mind: "To neglect nothing to secure my eternal peace, more
than if I had been certified I should die within the day: nor to mind
any thing that my secular obligations and duties demanded of me, less
than if I had been ensured to live fifty years more."
I must here observe, that though Dr Johnson appeared now to be
philosophically calm, yet his genius did not shine forth as in
companies, where I have listened to him with admiration. The vigour of
his mind was, however, sufficiently manifested, by his discovering no
symptoms of feeble relaxation in the dull, 'weary, flat and
unprofitable' state in which we now were placed.
I am inclined to think that it was on this day he composed the
following Ode upon the Isle of Sky, which a few days afterwards he
shewed me at Raysay:
ODA
Ponti profundis clausa recessibus,
Strepens procellis, rupibus obsita,
Quam grata defesso virentem
Skia sinum nebulosa pandis.
His cura, credo, sedibus exulat;
His blanda certe pax habitat locis:
Non ira, non moeror quietis
Insidias meditatur horis.
At non cavata rupe latescere,
Menti nec aegrae montibus aviis
Prodest vagari, nec frementes
E scopulo numerare fluctus
Humana virtus non sibi sufficit,
Datur nee aequum cuique animum sibi
Parare posse, ut Stoicorum
Secta crepet nimis alta fallax.
Exaestuantis pectoris impetum.
Rex summe, solus tu regis arbiter,
Mentisque, te tollente, surgunt,
Te recidunt moderante fluctus.
[Footnote: VARIOUS READINGS. Line 2. In the manuscript. Dr Johnson,
instead of rupibus obsita, had written imbribus uvida. and uvida
nubibus, but struck them both out. Lines 15 & 16. Instead of these two
lines, he had written, but afterwards struck out, the following:
Parare posse, utcunque jactet
Grandiloquus nimis alta Zeno.]
After supper, Dr Johnson told us, that Isaac Hawkins Browne drank
freely for thirty years, and that he wrote his poem, De Animi
Immortalitate, in some of the last of these years. I listened to this
with the eagerness of one, who, conscious of being himself fond of
wine, is glad to hear that a man of so much genius and good thinking
as Browne had the same propensity.
Monday, 6th September
We set out, accompanied by Mr Donald M'Leod (late of Canna) as our
guide. We rode for some time along the district of Slate, near the
shore. The houses in general are made of turf, covered with grass. The
country seemed well peopled. We came into the district of Strath, and
passed along a wild moorish tract of land till we arrived at the
shore. There we found good verdure, and some curious whin-rocks, or
collections of stones like the ruins of the foundations of old
buildings. We saw also three cairns of considerable size.
About a mile beyond Broadfoot, is Corrichatachin, a farm of Sir
Alexander Macdonald's, possessed by Mr M'Kinnon, [Footnote: That my
readers may have my narrative in the style of the country through
which I am travelling, it is proper to inform them, that the chief of
a clan is denominated by his SURNAME alone, as M'Leod, M'Kinnon.
M'Intosh. To prefix MR to it would be a degradation from THE M'Leod,
&c. My old friend, the Laird of M'Farlane, the great antiquary, took
it highly amiss, when General Wade called him Mr M'Farlane. Dr Johnson
said, he could not bring himself to use this mode of address: it
seemed to him to be too familiar, as it is the way in which, in all
other places, intimates or inferiors are addressed. When the chiefs
have TITLES, they are denominated by them, as SIR JAMES GRANT. SIR
ALLAN M'LEAN. The other Highland gentlemen, of landed property, are
denominated by their ESTATES, as RASAY, BOISDALE; and the wives of all
of them have the title of ladies. The TACKSMEN, or principal tenants,
are named by their farms, as KINGSBURGH, CORRICHATACHIN; and their
wives are called the MISTRESS of Kingsburgh, the MISTRESS of
Corrichatachin. Having given this explanation, I am at liberty to use
that mode of speech which generally prevails in the Highlands and the
Hebrides.] who received us with a hearty welcome, as did his wife, who
was what we call in Scotland a LADY-LIKE woman. Mr Pennant, in the
course of his tour to the Hebrides, passed two nights at this
gentleman's house. On its being mentioned, that a present had here
been made to him of a curious specimen of Highland antiquity, Dr
Johnson said, 'Sir, it was more than he deserved: the dog is a Whig.'
We here enjoyed the comfort of a table plentifully furnished, the
satisfaction of which was heightened by a numerous and cheerful
company; and we for the first time had a specimen of the joyous social
manners of the inhabitants of the Highlands. They talked in their own
ancient language, with fluent vivacity, and sung many Erse songs with
such spirit, that, though Dr Johnson was treated with the greatest
respect and attention, there were moments in which he seemed to be
forgotten. For myself, though but a lowlander, having picked up a few
words of the language, I presumed to mingle in their mirth, and joined
in the choruses with as much glee as any of the company. Dr Johnson
being fatigued with his journey, retired early to his chamber, where
he composed the following Ode, addressed to Mrs Thrale:
Oda
Permeo terras, ubi nuda rupes
Saxeas miscet nebulis ruinas,
Torva ubi rident steriles coloni
Rura labores.
Pervagor gentes, hominum ferorum
Vita ubi nullo decorata cultu
Squallet informis, tugurique fumis
Foeda latescit.
Inter erroris salebrosa longi,
Inter ignotae strepitus loquelae,
Quot modis mecum, quid agat, requiro,
Thralia dulcis
Seu viri curas pia nupta mulcet,
Seu fovet mater sobolem benigna.
Sive cum libris novitate pascet
Sedula mentem;
Sit memor nostri, fideique merces,
Stet fides constans, meritoque blandum
Thraliae discant resonare nomen
Littora Skiae.
Scriptum in Skia, Sept. 6, 1773.
Tuesday, 7th September
Dr Johnson was much pleased with his entertainment here. There were
many good books in the house: Hector Boethius in Latin; Cave's Lives
of the Fathers; Baker's Chronicle; Jeremy Collier's Church History; Dr
Johnson's small Dictionary; Craufurd's Officers of State, and several
more: a mezzotinto of Mrs Brooks the actress (by some strange chance
in Sky); and also a print of Macdonald of Clanranald, with a Latin
inscription about the cruelties after the battle of Culloden, which
will never be forgotten.
It was a very wet stormy day; we were therefore obliged to remain
here, it being impossible to cross the sea to Rasay.
I employed a part of the forenoon in writing this Journal. The rest of
it was somewhat dreary, from the gloominess of the weather, and the
uncertain state which we were in, as we could not tell but it might
clear up every hour. Nothing is more painful to the mind than a state
of suspence, especially when it depends upon the weather, concerning
which there can be so little calculation. As Dr Johnson said of our
weariness on the Monday at Aberdeen, 'Sensation is sensation.'
Corrichatachin, which was last night a hospitable house, was, in my
mind, changed to-day into a prison. After dinner I read some of Dr
Macpherson's Dissertations on the Ancient Caledonians. I was disgusted
by the unsatisfactory conjectures as to antiquity, before the days of
record. I was happy when tea came. Such, I take it, is the state of
those who live in the country. Meals are wished for from the cravings
of vacuity of mind, as well as from the desire of eating. I was hurt
to find even such a temporary feebleness, and that I was so far from
being that robust wise man who is sufficient for his own happiness. I
felt a kind of lethargy of indolence. I did not exert myself to get Dr
Johnson to talk, that I might not have the labour of writing down his
conversation. He inquired here, if there were any remains of the
second sight. Mr M'Pherson, Minister of Slate, said, he was RESOLVED
not to believe it, because it was founded on no principle. JOHNSON.
'There are many things then, which we are sure are true, that you will
not believe. What principle is there, why a loadstone attracts iron?
Why an egg produces a chicken by heat? Why a tree grows upwards, when
the natural tendency of all things is downwards? Sir, it depends upon
the degree of evidence that you have.' Young Mr M'Kinnon mentioned one
M'Kenzie, who is still alive, who had often fainted in his presence,
and when he recovered, mentioned visions which had been presented to
him. He told Mr M'Kinnon, that at such a place he should meet a
funeral, and that such and such people would be the bearers, naming
four; and three weeks afterwards he saw what M'Kenzie had predicted.
The naming the very spot in a country where a funeral comes a long
way, and the very people as bearers, when there are so many out of
whom a choice may be made, seems extraordinary. We should have sent
for M'Kenzie, had we not been informed that he could speak no English.
Besides, the facts were not related with sufficient accuracy.
Mrs M'Kinnon, who is a daughter of old Kingsburgh, told us that her
father was one day riding in Sky, and some women, who were at work in
a field on the side of the road, said to him, they had heard two
taiscks (that is, two voices of persons about to die), and what was
remarkable, one of them was an ENGLISH taisck, which they never heard
before. When he returned, he at that very place met two funerals, and
one of them was that of a woman who had come from the main land, and
could speak only English. This, she remarked, made a great impression
upon her father.
How all the people here were lodged, I know not. It was partly done by
separating man and wife, and putting a number of men in one room, and
of women in another.
Wednesday, 8th September
When I waked, the rain was much heavier than yesterday; but the wind
had abated. By breakfast, the day was better, and in a little while it
was calm and clear. I felt my spirits much elated. The propriety of
the expression, 'the sunshine of the breast', now struck me with
peculiar force; for the brilliant rays penetrated into my very soul.
We were all in better humour than before. Mrs M'Kinnon, with
unaffected hospitality and politeness, expressed her happiness in
having such company in her house, and appeared to understand and
relish Dr Johnson's conversation, as indeed all the company seemed to
do. When I knew she was old Kingsburgh's daughter, I did not wonder at
the good appearance which she made.
She talked as if her husband and family would emigrate, rather than be
oppressed by their landlord; and said, 'how agreeable would it be, if
these gentlemen should come in upon us when we are in America'.
Somebody observed that Sir Alexander Macdonald was always frightened
at sea. JOHNSON. 'HE is frightened at sea; and his tenants are
frightened when he comes to land.'
We resolved to set out directly after breakfast. We had about two
miles to ride to the sea-side, and there we expected to get one of the
boats belonging to the fleet of bounty herring-busses then on the
coast, or at least a good country fishing-boat. But while we were
preparing to set out, there arrived a man with the following card from
the Reverend Mr Donald M'Queen:
Mr M'Queen's compliments to Mr Boswell, and begs leave to acquaint him
that, fearing the want of a proper boat, as much as the rain of
yesterday, might have caused a stop, he is now at Skianwden with
Macgillichallum's [Footnote: The Highland expression for Laird of
Rasay.] carriage, to convey him and Dr Johnson to Rasay, where they
will meet with a most hearty welcome, and where Macleod, being on a
visit, now attends their motions.--Wednesday afternoon.
This card was most agreeable; it was a prologue to that hospitable and
truly polite reception which we found at Rasay. In a little while
arrived Mr Donald M'Queen himself; a decent minister, an elderly man
with his own black hair, courteous, and rather slow of speech, but
candid, sensible and well informed, nay learned. Along with him came,
as our pilot, a gentleman whom I had a great desire to see, Mr Malcolm
Macleod, one of the Rasay family, celebrated in the year 1745-6. He
was now sixty-two years of age, hale, and well proportioned, with a
manly countenance, tanned by the weather, yet having a ruddiness in
his cheeks, over a great part of which his rough beard extended. His
eye was quick and lively, yet his look was not fierce, but he appeared
at once firm and good-humoured. He wore a pair of brogues, tartan hose
which came up only near to his knees, and left them bare, a purple
camblet kilt, a black waistcoat, a short green cloth coat bound with
gold cord, a yellowish bushy wig, a large blue bonnet with a gold
thread button. I never saw a figure that gave a more perfect
representation of a Highland Gentleman. I wished much to have a
picture of him just as he was. I found him frank and POLITE, in the
true sense of the word.
The good family at Corrichatachin said, they hoped to see us on our
return. We rode down to the shore; but Malcolm walked with graceful
agility.
We got into Rasay's CARRIAGE, which was a good strong open boat made
in Norway. The wind had now risen pretty high, and was against us; but
we had four stout rowers, particularly a Macleod, a robust,
black-haired fellow, half naked, and bear-headed, something between a
wild Indian and an English tar. Dr Johnson sat high on the stern, like
a magnificent Triton. Malcolm sung an Erse song, the chorus of which
was 'Hatyin foam foam eri', with words of his own. The tune resembled
'Owr the muir amang the heather', the boatmen and Mr M'Queen chorused,
and all went well. At length Malcolm himself took an oar, and rowed
vigorously. We sailed along the coast of Scalpa, a rugged island,
about four miles in length. Dr Johnson proposed that he and I should
buy it, and found a good school, and an episcopal church (Malcolm
said, he would come to it), and have a printing-press, where he would
print all the Erse that could be found. Here I was strongly struck
with our long projected scheme of visiting the Hebrides being
realized. I called to him, 'We are contending with seas;' which I
think were the words of one of his letters to me. 'Not much,' said he;
and though the wind made the sea lash considerably upon us, he was not
discomposed. After we were out of the shelter of Scalpa, and in the
sound between it and Rasay, which extended about a league, the wind
made the sea very rough. I did not like it. JOHNSON. 'This now is the
Atlantick. If I should tell at a tea table in London, that I have
crossed the Atlantick in an open boat, how they'd shudder, and what a
fool they'd think me to expose myself to such danger.' He then
repeated Horace's ode,
Otium Divos rogat in patenti
Prensus Aegaeo...
In the confusion and hurry of this boisterous sail, Dr Johnson's
spurs, of which Joseph had charge, were carried over-board into the
sea, and lost. This was the first misfortune that had befallen us. Dr
Johnson was a little angry at first, observing that 'there was
something wild in letting a pair of spurs be carried into the sea out
of a boat'; but then he remarked, that, as Janes the naturalist had
said upon losing his pocket book, it was rather an inconvenience than
a loss. He told us, he now recollected that he dreamt the night
before, that he put his staff into a river, and chanced to let it go,
and it was carried down the stream and lost. 'So now you see,' said
he, 'that I have lost my spurs; and this story is better than many of
those which we have concerning second sight and dreams.' Mr M'Queen
said he did not believe in second sight; that he never met with any
well attested instances; and if he should, he should impute them to
chance; because all who pretend to that quality often fail in their
predictions, though they take a great scope, and sometimes interpret
literally, sometimes figuratively, so as to suit the events. He told
us, that, since he came to be minister of the parish where he now is,
the belief of witchcraft, or charms, was very common, insomuch that he
had many prosecutions before his session (the parochial ecclesiastical
court) against women, for having by these means carried off the milk
from people's cows. He disregarded them; and there is not now the
least vestige of that superstition. He preached against it; and in
order to give a strong proof to the people that there was nothing in
it, he said from the pulpit, that every woman in the parish was
welcome to take the milk from his cows, provided she did not touch
them.
Dr Johnson asked him as to Fingal. He said he could repeat some
passages in the original, that he heard his grandfather had a copy of
it; but that he could not affirm that Ossian composed all that poem as
it is now published. This came pretty much to what Dr Johnson had
maintained; though he goes farther, and contends that it is no better
than such an epick poem as he could make from the song of Robin Hood;
that is to say, that, except a few passages, there is nothing truly
ancient but the names and some vague traditions. Mr M'Queen alledged
that Homer was made up of detached fragments. Dr Johnson denied this;
observing, that it had been one work originally, and that you could
not put a book of the Iliad out of its place; and he believed the same
might be said of the Odyssey.
The approach to Rasay was very pleasing. We saw before us a beautiful
bay, well defended by a rocky coast; a good family mansion; a fine
verdure about it, with a considerable number of trees; and beyond it
hills and mountains in gradation of wildness. Our boatmen sung with
great spirit. Dr Johnson observed, that naval musick was very ancient.
As we came near the shore, the singing of our rowers was succeeded by
that of reapers, who were busy at work, and who seemed to shout as
much as to sing, while they worked with a bounding activity. Just as
we landed, I observed a cross, or rather the ruins of one, upon a
rock, which had to me a pleasing vestige of religion. I perceived a
large company coming out from the house. We met them as we walked up.
There were Rasay himself; his brother Dr Macleod; his nephew the Laird
of M'Kinnon; the Laird of Macleod; Colonel Macleod of Talisker, an
officer in the Dutch service, a very genteel man, and a faithful
branch of the family; Mr Macleod of Muiravenside, best known by the
name of Sandie Macleod, who was long in exile on account of the part
which he took in 1745; and several other persons. We were welcomed
upon the green, and conducted into the house, where we were introduced
to Lady Rasay, who was surrounded by a numerous family, consisting of
three sons and ten daughters. The Laird of Rasay is a sensible,
polite, and most hospitable gentleman. I was told that his island of
Rasay, and that of Rona (from which the eldest son of the family has
his title), and a considerable extent of land which he has in Sky, do
not altogether yield him a very large revenue: and yet he lives in
great splendour; and so far is he from distressing his people, that,
in the present rage for emigration, not a man has left his estate.
It was past six o'clock when we arrived. Some excellent brandy was
served round immediately, according to the custom of the Highlands,
where a dram is generally taken every day. They call it a scatch. On a
side-board was placed for us, who had come off the sea, a substantial
dinner, and a variety of wines. Then we had coffee and tea. I observed
in the room several elegantly bound books and other marks of improved
life. Soon afterwards a fiddler appeared, and a little ball began.
Rasay himself danced with as much spirit as any man, and Malcolm
bounded like a roe. Sandie Macleod, who has at times an excessive flow
of spirits, and had it now, was, in his days of absconding, known by
the name of M'Cruslick, which it seems was the designation of a kind
of wild man in the Highlands, something between Proteus and Don
Quixotte; and so he was called here. He made much jovial noise. Dr
Johnson was so delighted with this scene, that he said, 'I know not
how we shall get away.' It entertained me to observe him sitting by,
while we danced, sometimes in deep meditation, sometimes smiling
complacently, sometimes looking upon Hooke's Roman History, and
sometimes talking a little amidst the noise of the ball, to Mr Donald
M'Queen, who anxiously gathered knowledge from him. He was pleased
with M'Queen and said to me, 'This is a critical man, sir. There must
be great vigour of mind to make him cultivate learning so much in the
isle of Sky, where he might do without it. It is wonderful how many of
the new publications he has. There must be a snatch of every
opportunity.' Mr M'Queen told me that his brother (who is the fourth
generation of the family following each other as ministers of the
parish of Snizort) and he joined together, and bought from time to
time such books as had reputation. Soon after we came in, a black cock
and grey hen, which had been shot, were shewn, with their feathers on,
to Dr Johnson, who had never seen that species of bird before. We had
a company of thirty at supper; and all was good humour and gaiety,
without intemperance.
Thursday, 9th September
At breakfast this morning, among a profusion of other things, there
were oat-cakes, made of what is called graddaned meal, that is, meal
made of grain separated from the husks, and toasted by fire, instead
of being threshed and kiln dried. This seems to be bad management, as
so much fodder is consumed by it. Mr M'Queen however defended it, by
saying, that it is doing the thing much quicker, as one operation
effects what is otherwise done by two. His chief reason however was,
that the servants of Sky are, according to him, a faithless pack, and
steal what they can; so that much is saved by the corn passing but
once through their hands, as at each time they pilfer some. It appears
to me, that the graddaning is a strong proof of the laziness of the
highlanders, who will rather make fire act for them, at the expence of
fodder, than labour themselves. There was also, what I cannot help
disliking at breakfast, cheese: it is the custom over all the
Highlands to have it; and it often smells very strong, and poisons to
a certain degree the elegance of an Indian repast. The day was
showery; however, Rasay and I took a walk, and had some cordial
conversation. I conceived a more than ordinary regard for this worthy
gentleman. His family has possessed this island above four hundred
years. It is the remains of the estate of Macleod of Lewis, whom he
represents. When we returned, Dr Johnson walked with us to see the old
chapel. He was in fine spirits. He said, 'This is truely the
patriarchal life: this is what we came to find.'
After dinner, M'Cruslick, Malcolm, and I, went out with guns, to try
if we could find any black-cock; but we had no sport, owing to a heavy
rain. I saw here what is called a Danish fort. Our evening was passed
as last night was. One of our company, I was told, had hurt himself by
too much study, particularly of infidel metaphysicians, of which he
gave a proof, on second sight being mentioned. He immediately retailed
some of the fallacious arguments of Voltaire and Hume against miracles
in general. Infidelity in a Highland gentleman appeared to me
peculiarly offensive. I was sorry for him, as he had otherwise a good
character. I told Dr Johnson that he had studied himself into
infidelity. JOHNSON. 'Then he must study himself out of it again. That
is the way. Drinking largely will sober him again.'
Friday, 10th September
Having resolved to explore the island of Rasay, which could be done
only on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller's permission
to leave him for a day, he being unable to take so hardy a walk. Old
Mr Malcolm M'Cleod, who had obligingly promised to accompany me, was
at my bedside between five and six. I sprang up immediately, and he
and I, attended by two other gentlemen, traversed the country during
the whole of this day. Though we had passed over not less than
four-and-twenty miles of very rugged ground, and had a Highland dance
on the top of Dun Can, the highest mountain in the island, we returned
in the evening not at all fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not being
outdone at the nightly ball by our less active friends, who had
remained at home.
My survey of Rasay did not furnish much which can interest my readers;
I shall therefore put into as short a compass as I can, the
observations upon it, which I find registered in my journal. It is
about fifteen English miles long, and four broad. On the south side is
the laird's family seat, situated on a pleasing low spot. The old
tower of three stories, mentioned by Martin, was taken down soon after
1746, and a modern house supplies its place. There are very good
grass-fields and corn-lands about it, well dressed. I observed,
however, hardly any inclosures, except a good garden plentifully
stocked with vegetables, and strawberries, raspberries, currants, &c.
On one of the rocks just where we landed, which are not high, there is
rudely carved a square, with a crucifix in the middle. Here, it is
said, the lairds of Rasay, in old times, used to offer up their
devotions. I could not approach the spot, without a grateful
recollection of the event commemorated by this symbol.
A little from the shore, westward, is a kind of subterraneous house.
There has been a natural fissure, or separation of the rock, running
towards the sea, which has been roofed over with long stones, and
above them turf has been laid. In that place the inhabitants used to
keep their oars. There are a number of trees near the house, which
grow well; some of them of a pretty good size. They are mostly plane
and ash. A little to the west of the house is an old ruinous chapel,
unroofed, which never has been very curious. We here saw some human
bones of an uncommon size. There was a heel-bone, in particular,
which Dr Macleod said was such, that if the foot was in proportion, it
must have been twenty-seven inches long. Dr Johnson would not look at
the bones. He started back from them with a striking appearance of
horrour. Mr M'Queen told us, it was formerly much the custom, in these
isles, to have human bones lying above ground, especially in the
windows of churches. On the south of the chapel is the family burying
place. Above the door, on the east end of it, is a small bust or image
of the Virgin Mary, carved upon a stone which makes part of the wall.
There is no church upon the island. It is annexed to one of the
parishes of Sky; and the minister comes and preaches either in Rasay's
house, or some other house, on certain Sundays. I could not but value
the family seat more, for having even the ruins of a chapel close to
it. There was something comfortable in the thought of being so near a
piece of consecrated ground. Dr Johnson said, 'I look with reverence
upon every place that has been set apart for religion'; and he kept
off his hat while he was within the walls of the chapel.
The eight crosses, which Martin mentions as pyramids for deceased
ladies, stood in a semicircular line, which contained within it the
chapel. They marked out the boundaries of the sacred territory within
which an asylum was to be had. One of them, which we observed upon our
landing, made the first point of the semicircle. There are few of them
now remaining. A good way farther north, there is a row of buildings
about four feet high: they run from the shore on the east along the
top of a pretty high eminence, and so down to the shore on the west,
in much the same direction with the crosses. Rasay took them to be the
marks for the asylum; but Malcolm thought them to be false sentinels,
a common deception, of which instances occur in Martin, to make
invaders imagine an island better guarded. Mr Donald M'Queen, justly
in my opinion, supposed the crosses which form the inner circle to be
the church's land-marks.
The south end of the island is much covered with large stones or rocky
strata. The laird has enclosed and planted part of it with firs, and
he shewed me a considerable space marked out for additional
plantations.
Dun Can is a mountain three computed miles from the laird's house. The
ascent to it is by consecutive risings, if that expression may be used
when vallies intervene, so that there is but a short rise at once; but
it is certainly very high above the sea. The palm of altitude is
disputed for by the people of Rasay and those of Sky; the former
contending for Dun Can, the latter for the mountains in Sky, over
against it. We went up the east side of Dun Can pretty easily. It is
mostly rocks all around, the points of which hem the summit of it.
Sailors, to whom it is a good object as they pass along, call it
Rasay's cap. Before we reached this mountain, we passed by two lakes.
Of the first, Malcolm told me a strange fabulous tradition. He said,
there was a wild beast in it, a sea-horse, which came and devoured a
man's daughter; upon which the man lighted a great fire, and had a sow
roasted at it, the smell of which attracted the monster. In the fire
was put a spit. The man lay concealed behind a low wall of loose
stones, and he had an avenue formed for the monster, with two rows of
large flat stones, which extended from the fire over the summit of the
hill, till it reached the side of the loch. The monster came, and the
man with the red-hot spit destroyed it. Malcolm shewed me the little
hiding-place, and the rows of stones. He did not laugh when he told
this story. I recollect having seen in the Scots Magazine, several
years ago, a poem upon a similar tale, perhaps the same, translated
from the Erse, or Irish, called Albin and the Daughter of Mey.
There is a large tract of land, possessed as a common, in Rasay. They
have no regulations as to the number of cattle. Every man puts upon it
as many as he chooses. From Dun Can northward, till you reach the
other end of the island, there is much good natural pasture
unincumbered by stones. We passed over a spot, which is appropriated
for the exercising ground. In 1745, a hundred fighting men were
reviewed here, as Malcolm told me, who was one of the officers that
led them to the field. They returned home all but about fourteen. What
a princely thing is it to be able to furnish such a band! Rasay has
the true spirit of a chief. He is, without exaggeration, a father to
his people.
There is plenty of lime-stone in the island, a great quarry of
free-stone, and some natural woods, but none of any age, as they cut
the trees for common country uses. The lakes, of which there are many,
are well stocked with trout. Malcolm catched one of four-and-twenty
pounds weight in the loch next to Dun Can, which, by the way, is
certainly a Danish name, as most names of places in these islands are.
The old castle, in which the family of Rasay formerly resided, is
situated upon a rock very near the sea: the rock is not one mass of
stone, but a concretion of pebbles and earth, so firm that it does not
appear to have mouldered. In this remnant of antiquity I found nothing
worthy of being noticed, except a certain accommodation rarely to be
found at the modern houses of Scotland, and which Dr Johnson and I
fought for in vain at the Laird of Rasay's new-built mansion, where
nothing else was wanting. I took the liberty to tell the laird it was
a shame there should be such a deficiency in civilized times. He
acknowledged the justice of the remark. But perhaps some generations
may pass before the want is supplied. Dr Johnson observed to me, how
quietly people will endure an evil, which they might at any time very
easily remedy; and mentioned as an instance, that the present family
of Rasay had possessed the island for more than four-hundred years,
and never made a commodious landing place, though a few men with
pickaxes might have cut an ascent of stairs out of any part of the
rock in a week's time.
The north end of Rasay is as rocky as the south end. From it I saw the
little Isle of Fladda, belonging to Rasay, all fine green ground; and
Rona, which is of so rocky a soil that it appears to be a pavement. I
was told however that it has a great deal of grass, in the
interstices. The laird has it all in his own hands. At this end of the
island of Rasay is a cave in a striking situation. It is in a recess
of a great cleft, a good way up from the sea. Before it the ocean
roars, being dashed against monstrous broken rocks; grand and aweful
propugnacula. On the right hand of it is a longitudinal cave, very low
at the entrance, but higher as you advance. The sea having scooped it
out, it seems strange and unaccountable that the interior part, where
the water must have operated with less force, should be loftier than
that which is more immediately exposed to its violence. The roof of it
is all covered with a kind of petrifications formed by drops, which
perpetually distil from it. The first cave has been a place of much
safety. I find a great difficulty in describing visible objects. I
must own too that the old castle and cave, like many other things, of
which one hears much, did not answer my expectations. People are every
where apt to magnify the curiosities of their country.
This island has abundance of black cattle, sheep, and goats; a good
many horses, which are used for ploughing, carrying out dung, and
other works of husbandry. I believe the people never ride. There are
indeed no roads through the island, unless a few detached beaten
tracks deserve that name. Most of the houses are upon the shore; so
that all the people have little boats, and catch fish. There is great
plenty of potatoes here. There are black-cock in extraordinary
abundance, moor-fowl, plover and wild pigeons, which seemed to me to
be the same as we have in pigeon-houses, in their state of nature.
Rasay has no pigeon-house. There are no hares nor rabbits in the
island, nor was there ever known to be a fox, till last year, when one
was landed on it by some malicious person, without whose aid he could
not have got thither, as that animal is known to be a very bad
swimmer. He has done much mischief. There is a great deal of fish
caught in the sea round Rasay; it is a place where one may live in
plenty, and even in luxury. There are no deer; but Rasay told us he
would get some.
They reckon it rains nine months in the year in this island, owing to
its being directly opposite to the western coast of Sky, where the
watery clouds are broken by high mountains. The hills here, and indeed
all the healthy grounds in general, abound with the sweet-smelling
plant which the highlanders call gaul, and (I think) with dwarf
juniper in many places. There is enough of turf, which is their fuel,
and it is thought there is a mine of coal. Such are the observations
which I made upon the island of Rasay, upon comparing it with the
description given by Martin, whose book we had with us.
There has been an ancient league between the families of Macdonald and
Rasay. Whenever the head of either family dies, his sword is given to
the head of the other. The present Rasay has the late Sir James
Macdonald's sword. Old Rasay joined the Highland army in 1745, but
prudently guarded against a forfeiture, by previously conveying his
estate to the present gentleman, his eldest son. On that occasion, Sir
Alexander, father of the late Sir James Macdonald, was very friendly
to his neighbour. 'Don't be afraid, Rasay,' said he; 'I'll use all my
interest to keep you safe; and if your estate should be taken, I'll
buy it for the family.' And he would have done it.
Let me now gather some gold dust--some more fragments of Dr Johnson's
conversation, without regard to order of time. He said, he thought
very highly of Bentley; that no man now went so far in the kinds of
learning that he cultivated; that the many attacks on him were owing
to envy, and to a desire of being known, by being in competition with
such a man; that it was safe to attack him, because he never answered
his opponents, but let them die away. It was attacking a man who would
not beat them, because his beating them would make them live the
longer. And he was right not to answer; for, in his hazardous method
of writing, he could not but be often enough wrong; so it was better
to leave things to their general appearance, than own himself to have
erred in particulars. He said, Mallet was the prettiest drest puppet
about town, and always kept good company. That, from his way of
talking, he saw, and always said, that he had not written any part of
the Life of the Duke of Marlborough, though perhaps he intended to do
it at some time, in which case he was not culpable in taking the
pension. That he imagined the duchess furnished the materials for her
Apology, which Hooke wrote, and Hooke furnished the words and the
order, and all that in which the art of writing consists. That the
duchess had not superior parts, but was a bold frontless woman, who
knew how to make the most of her opportunities in life. That Hooke got
a LARGE sum of money for writing her Apology. That he wondered Hooke
should have been weak enough to insert so profligate a maxim, as that
to tell another's secret to one's friend, is no breach of confidence;
though perhaps Hooke, who was a virtuous man, as his History shews,
and did not wish her well, though he wrote her Apology, might see its
ill tendency, and yet insert it at her desire. He was acting only
ministerially. I apprehend, however, that Hooke was bound to give his
best advice. I speak as a lawyer. Though I have had clients whose
causes I could not, as a private man, approve; yet, if I undertook
them, I would not do any thing that might be prejudicial to them, even
at their desire, without warning them of their danger.
Saturday, 11th September
It was a storm of wind and rain; so we could not set out. I wrote some
of this Journal, and talked awhile with Dr Johnson in his room, and
passed the day, I cannot well say how, but very pleasantly. I was here
amused to find Mr Cumberland's comedy of the Fashionable Lover, in
which he has very well drawn a Highland character, Colin M'Cleod, of
the same name with the family under whose roof we now were. Dr Johnson
was much pleased with the Laird of Macleod, who is indeed a most
promising youth, and with a noble spirit struggles with difficulties,
and endeavours to preserve his people. He has been left with an
incumbrance of forty thousand pounds debt, and annuities to the amount
of thirteen hundred pounds a year. Dr Johnson said, 'If he gets the
better of all this, he'll be a hero; and I hope he will. I have not
met with a young man who had more desire to learn, or who has learnt
more. I have seen nobody that I wish more to do a kindness to than
Macleod.' Such was the honourable elogium, on this young chieftain,
pronounced by an accurate observer, whose praise was never lightly
bestowed.
There is neither justice of peace, nor constable in Rasay. Sky has Mr
M'Cleod of Ulinish, who is the sheriff substitute, and no other
justice of peace. The want of the execution of justice is much felt
among the islanders. Macleod very sensibly observed, that taking away
the heritable jurisdictions had not been of such service in the
islands, as was imagined. They had not authority enough in lieu of
them. What could formerly have been settled at once, must now either
take much time and trouble, or be neglected. Dr Johnson said, 'A
country is in a bad state, which is governed only by laws; because a
thousand things occur for which laws cannot provide, and where
authority ought to interpose. Now destroying the authority of the
chiefs set the people loose. It did not pretend to bring any positive
good, but only to cure some evil; and I am not well enough acquainted
with the country to know what degree of evil the heritable
jurisdictions occasioned.' I maintained hardly any; because the chiefs
generally acted right, for their own sakes.
Dr Johnson was now wishing to move. There was not enough of
intellectual entertainment for him, after he had satisfyed his
curiosity, which he did, by asking questions, till he had exhausted
the island; and where there was so numerous a company, mostly young
people, there was such a flow of familiar talk, so much noise, and so
much singing and dancing, that little opportunity was left for his
energetick conversation. He seemed sensible of this; for when I told
him how happy they were at having him there, he said, 'Yet we have not
been able to entertain them much.' I was fretted, from irritability of
nerves, by M'Cruslick's too obstreperous mirth. I complained of it to
my friend, observing we should be better if he was gone. 'No, sir,'
said he. 'He puts something into our society, and takes nothing out of
it.' Dr Johnson, however, had several opportunities of instructing the
company; but I am sorry to say, that I did not pay sufficient
attention to what passed, as his discourse now turned chiefly on
mechanicks, agriculture and such subjects, rather than on science and
wit. Last night Lady Rasay shewed him the operation of wawking cloth,
that is, thickening it in the same manner as is done by a mill. Here
it is performed by women, who kneel upon the ground, and rub it with
both their hands, singing an Erse song all the time. He was asking
questions while they were performing this operation, and, amidst their
loud and wild howl, his voice was heard even in the room above.
They dance here every night. The queen of our ball was the eldest Miss
Macleod, of Rasay, an elegant well-bred woman, and celebrated for her
beauty over all those regions, by the name of Miss Flora Rasay.
[Footnote: She had been some time at Edinburgh, to which she again
went, and was married to my worthy neighbour, Colonel Mure Campbell,
now Earl of Loudoun; but she died soon afterwards, leaving one
daughter.] There seemed to be no jealousy, no discontent among them;
and the gaiety of the scene was such, that I for a moment doubted
whether unhappiness had any place in Rasay. But my delusion was soon
dispelled, by recollecting the following lines of my fellow-traveller:
Yet hope not life from grief or danger free,
Nor think the doom of man revers'd for thee!
Sunday, 12th September
It was a beautiful day, and although we did not approve of travelling
on Sunday, we resolved to set out, as we were in an island from whence
one must take occasion as it serves. Macleod and Talisker sailed in a
boat of Rasay's for Sconser, to take the shortest way to Dunvegan.
M'Cruslick went with them to Sconser, from whence he was to go to
Slate, and so to the main land. We were resolved to pay a visit at
Kingsburgh, and see the celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald, who is
married to the present Mr Macdonald of Kingsburgh; so took that road,
though not so near. All the family, but Lady Rasay, walked down to the
shore to see us depart. Rasay himself went with us in a large boat,
with eight oars, built in his island; as did Mr Malcolm M'Cleod, Mr
Donald M'Queen, Dr Macleod, and some others. We had a most pleasant
sail between Rasay and Sky; and passed by a cave, where Martin says
fowls were caught by lighting fire in the mouth of it. Malcolm
remembers this. But it is not now practised, as few fowls come into
it.
We spoke of death. Dr Johnson on this subject observed, that the
boastings of some men, as to dying easily, were idle talk, proceeding
from partial views. I mentioned Hawthornden's Cypress Grove, where it
is said that the world is a mere show; and that it is unreasonable for
a man to wish to continue in the show-room, after he has seen it. Let
him go cheerfully out, and give place to other spectators. JOHNSON.
'Yes, sir, if he is sure he is to be well, after he goes out of it.
But if he is to grow blind after he goes out of the show-room, and
never to see any thing again; or if he does not know whither he is to
go next, a man will not go cheerfully out of a show-room. No wise man
will be contented to die, if he thinks he is to go into a state of
punishment. Nay, no wise man will be contented to die, if he thinks he
is to fall into annihilation: for however unhappy any man's existence
may be, he yet would rather have it, than not exist at all. No; there
is no rational principle by which a man can die contented, but a trust
in the mercy of God, through the merits of Jesus Christ.' This short
sermon, delivered with an earnest tone, in a boat upon the sea, which
was perfectly calm, on a day appropriated to religious worship, while
every one listened with an air of satisfaction, had a most pleasing
effect upon my mind.
Pursuing the same train of serious reflection, he added, that it
seemed certain that happiness could not be found in this life, because
so many had tried to find it, in such a variety of ways, and had not
found it.
We reached the harbour of Portree, in Sky, which is a large and good
one. There was lying in it a vessel to carry off the emigrants, called
the Nestor. It made a short settlement of the differences between a
chief and his clan:
... Nestor componere lites
Inter Peleiden festinat & inter Atriden.
We approached her, and she hoisted her colours. Dr Johnson and Mr
M'Queen remained in the boat: Rasay and I, and the rest went on board
of her. She was a very pretty vessel, and, as we were told, the
largest in Clyde. Mr Harrison, the captain shewed her to us. The cabin
was commodious, and even elegant. There was a little library, finely
bound. Portree has its name from King James the Fifth having landed
there in his tour through the Western Isles, Ree in Erse being King,
as Re is in Italian; so it is Port-Royal. There was here a tolerable
inn. On our landing, I had the pleasure of finding a letter from home;
and there were also letters to Dr Johnson and me, from Lord Elibank,
which had been sent after us from Edinburgh. His lordship's letter to
me was as follows:
Dear Boswell,
I flew to Edinburgh the moment I heard of Mr Johnson's arrival; but so
defective was my intelligence, that I came too late. It is but justice
to believe, that I could never forgive myself, nor deserve to be
forgiven by others, if I was to foil in any mark of respect to that
very great genius.--I hold him in the highest veneration: for that
very reason I was resolved to take no share in the merit, perhaps
guilt, of inticing him to honour this country with a visit.--I could
not persuade myself there was any thing in Scotland worthy to have a
Summer of Samuel Johnson bestowed on it; but since he has done us that
compliment, for heaven's sake inform me of your motions. I will attend
them most religiously; and though I should regret to let Mr Johnson go
a mile out of his way on my account, old as I am, I shall be glad to
go five hundred miles to enjoy a day of his company. Have the charity
to send a council-post [Footnote: A term in Scotland for a special
messenger, such as was formerly sent with dispatches by the lords of
the council.] with intelligence; the post does not suit us in the
country. At any rate write to me. I will attend you in the north, when
I shall know where to find you.
I am,
My dear Boswell,
Your sincerely
Obedient humble servant,
ELIBANK.
August 21st, 1773.
The letter to Dr Johnson was in these words:
Dear Sir,
I was to have kissed your hands at Edinburgh, the moment I heard of
you; but you were gone.
I hope my friend Boswell will inform me of your motions. It will be
cruel to deprive me an instant of the honour of attending you. As I
value you more than any King in Christendom, I will perform that duty
with infinitely greater alacrity than any courtier. I can contribute
but little to your entertainment; but, my sincere esteem for you gives
me some tide to the opportunity of expressing it.
I dare say you are by this time sensible that things are pretty much
the same, as when Buchanan complained of being born solo et seculo
inerudito. Let me hear of you, and be persuaded that none of your
admirers is more sincerely devoted to you, than,
Dear Sir,
Your most obedient,
And most humble servant,
ELIBANK.
Dr Johnson, on the following Tuesday, answered for both of us, thus:
My Lord,
On the rugged shore of Skie, I had the honour of your lordship's
letter, and can with great truth declare, that no place is so gloomy
but that it would be cheered by such a testimony of regard, from a
mind so well qualified to estimate characters, and to deal out
approbation in its due proportions. If I have more than my share, it
is your lordship's fault; for I have always reverenced your judgment
too much, to exalt myself in your presence by any false pretensions.
Mr Boswell and I are at present at the disposal of the winds, and
therefore cannot fix the time at which we shall have the honour of
seeing your lordship. But we should either of us think ourselves
injured by the supposition that we would miss your lordship's
conversation, when we could enjoy it; for I have often declared that I
never met you without going away a wiser man.
I am, my Lord,
Your lordship's most obedient
And most humble servant,
SAM. JOHNSON.
At Portree, Mr Donald M'Queen went to church and officiated in Erse,
and then came to dinner. Dr Johnson and I resolved that we should
treat the company, so I played the landlord, or master of the feast,
having previously ordered Joseph to pay the bill.
Sir James Macdonald intended to have built a village here, which would
have done great good. A village is like a heart to a country. It
produces a perpetual circulation, and gives the people an opportunity
to make profit of many little articles, which would otherwise be in a
good measure lost. We had here a dinner, et praeterea nihil. Dr
Johnson did not talk. When we were about to depart, we found that
Rasay had been before-hand with us, and that all was paid: I would
fain have contested this matter with him, but seeing him resolved, I
declined it. We parted with cordial embraces from him and worthy
Malcolm. In the evening Dr Johnson and I remounted our horses,
accompanied by Mr M'Queen and Dr Macleod. It rained very hard. We rode
what they call six miles, upon Rasay's lands in Sky, to Dr Macleod's
house. On the road Dr Johnson appeared to be somewhat out of spirits.
When I talked of our meeting Lord Elibank, he said, 'I cannot be with
him much. I long to be again in civilized life; but can stay but for a
short while' (he meant at Edinburgh). He said, 'Let us go to Dunvegan
to-morrow.' 'Yes,' said I, 'if it is not a deluge.' 'At any rate,' he
replied. This shewed a kind of fretful impatience; nor was it to be
wondered at, considering our disagreeable ride. I feared he would give
up Mull and Icolmkill, for he said something of his apprehensions of
being detained by bad weather in going to Mull and Iona. However I
hoped well. We had a dish of tea at Dr Macleod's, who had a pretty
good house, where was his brother, a half-pay officer. His lady was a
polite, agreeable woman. Dr Johnson said, he was glad to see that he
was so well married, for he had an esteem for physicians. The doctor
accompanied us to Kingsburgh, which is called a mile farther; but the
computation of Sky has no connection whatever with real distance.
I was highly pleased to see Dr Johnson safely arrived at Kingsburgh,
and received by the hospitable Mr Macdonald, who, with a most
respectful attention, supported him into the house. Kingsburgh was
completely the figure of a gallant highlander, exhibiting 'the
graceful mien and manly looks', which our popular Scotch song has
justly attributed to that character. He had his tartan plaid thrown
about him, a large blue bonnet with a knot of black ribband like a
cockade, a brown short coat of a kind of duffil, a tartan waistoat
with gold buttons and gold button-holes, a bluish philibeg, and tartan
hose. He had jet black hair tied behind, and was a large stately man,
with a steady sensible countenance.
There was a comfortable parlour with a good fire, and a dram went
round. By and by supper was served, at which there appeared the lady
of the house, the celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald. She is a little
woman, of a genteel appearance, and uncommonly mild and well bred. To
see Dr Samuel Johnson, the great champion of the English Tories,
salute Miss Flora Macdonald in the isle of Sky, was a striking sight;
for though somewhat congenial in their notions, it was very improbable
they should meet here.
Miss Flora Macdonald (for so I shall call her) told me, she heard upon
the main land, as she was returning home about a fortnight before,
that Mr Boswell was coming to Sky, and one Mr Johnson, a young English
buck, with him. He was highly entertained with this fancy. Giving an
account of the afternoon which we passed at Anock, he said, 'I, being
a BUCK, had miss in to make tea.' He was rather quiescent tonight, and
went early to bed. I was in a cordial humour, and promoted a cheerful
glass. The punch was excellent. Honest Mr M'Queen observed that I was
in high glee, 'my governour being gone to bed'. Yet in reality my
heart was grieved, when I recollected that Kingsburgh was embarrassed
in his affairs, and intended to go to America. However, nothing but
what was good was present, and I pleased myself in thinking that so
spirited a man should be well every where. I slept in the same room
with Dr Johnson. Each had a neat bed, with tartan curtains, in an
upper chamber.
Monday, 13th September
The room where we lay was a celebrated one. Dr Johnson's bed was the
very bed in which the grandson of the unfortunate King James the
Second [Footnote: I do not call him the Prince of Wales, or the
Prince, because I am quite satisfied that the right which the House of
Stuart had to the throne is extinguished. I do not call him the
Pretender, because it appears to me as an insult to one who is still
alive, and, I suppose, thinks very differently. It may be a
parliamentary expression; but it is not a gentlemanly expression. I
KNOW, and I exult in having it in my power to tell, that the ONLY
PERSON in the world who is intitled to be offended at this delicacy,
thinks and feels as I do; and has liberality of mind and generosity of
sentiment enough to approve of my tenderness for what even HAS BEEN
Blood Royal. That he is A PRINCE by COURTESY, cannot be denied;
because his mother was the daughter of Sobiesky, king of Poland. I
shall, therefore, ON THAT ACCOUNT ALONE, distinguish him by the name
of PRINCE CHARLES EDWARD.] lay, on one of the nights after the failure
of his rash attempt in 1745-6, while he was eluding the pursuit of the
emissaries of government, which had offered thirty thousand pounds as
a reward for apprehending him. To see Dr Samuel Johnson lying in that
bed, in the isle of Sky, in the house of Miss Flora Macdonald, struck
me with such a group of ideas as it is not easy for words to describe,
as they passed through the mind. He smiled and said, 'I have had no
ambitious thoughts in it.' [Footnote: This perhaps, was said in
allusion to some lines ascribed to Pope, on his lying, at John Duke of
Argyle's, at Adderbury, in the same bed in which Wilmot, Earl of
Rochester, had slept.
With no poetick ardour fir'd,
I press the bed where Wilmot lay.
That here he liv'd; or here expir'd.
Begets no numbers, grave or gay.]
The room was decorated with a great variety of maps and prints. Among
others, was Hogarth's print of Wilkes grinning, with the cap of
liberty on a pole by him. That too was a curious circumstance in the
scene this morning; such a contrast was Wilkes to the above group. It
reminded me of Sir William Chambers's Account of Oriental Gardening,
in which we are told all odd, strange, ugly, and even terrible
objects, are introduced, for the sake of variety; a wild extravagance
of taste which is so well ridiculed in the celebrated Epistle to him.
The following lines of that poem immediately occurred to me;
Here too, O king of vengeance! in thy fane,
Tremendous Wilkes shall rattle his gold chain.
Upon the table in our room I found in the morning a slip of paper, on
which Dr Johnson had written with his pencil these words:
Quantum cedat virtutibus aurum.
[Footnote: With virtue weigh'd, what worthless trash is gold!]
What he meant by writing them I could not tell. [Footnote: Since the
first edition of this book, an ingenious friend has observed to me,
that Dr Johnson had probably been thinking on the reward which was
offered by government for the apprehension of the grandson of King
James II and that he meant by these words to express his admiration of
the Highlanders, whose fidelity and attachment had resisted the golden
temptation that had been held out to them.] He had caught cold a day
or two ago, and the rain yesterday having made it worse, he was become
very deaf. At breakfast he said, he would have given a good deal
rather than not have lain in that bed. I owned he was the lucky man;
and observed, that without doubt it had been contrived between Mrs
Macdonald and him. She seemed to acquiesce; adding, 'You know young
BUCKS are always favourites of the ladies.' He spoke of Prince Charles
being here, and asked Mrs Macdonald, 'WHO was with him? We were told,
madam, in England, there was one Miss Flora Macdonald with him.' She
said, 'they were very right'; and perceiving Dr Johnson's curiosity,
though he had delicacy enough not to question her, very obligingly
entertained him with a recital of the particulars which she herself
knew of that escape, which does so much honour to the humanity,
fidelity, and generosity, of the Highlanders. Dr Johnson listened to
her with placid attention, and said, 'All this should be written
down.'
From what she told us, and from what I was told by others personally
concerned, and from a paper of information which Rasay was so good as
to send me, at my desire, I have compiled the following abstract,
which, as it contains some curious anecdotes, will, I imagine not be
uninteresting to my readers, and even, perhaps, be of some use to
future historians.
Prince Charles Edward, after the battle of Culloden, was conveyed to
what is called the Long Island, where he lay for some time concealed.
But intelligence having been obtained where he was, and a number of
troops having come in quest of him, it became absolutely necessary for
him to quit that country without delay. Miss Flora Macdonald, then a
young lady, animated by what she thought the sacred principle of
loyalty, offered, with the magnanimity of a heroine, to accompany him
in an open boat to Sky, though the coast they were to quit was guarded
by ships. He dressed himself in women's clothes, and passed as her
supposed maid, by the name of Betty Bourke, an Irish girl. They got
off undiscovered, though several shots were fired to bring them to,
and landed at Mugstot, the seat of Sir Alexander Macdonald. Sir
Alexander was then at Fort Augustus, with the Duke of Cumberland; but
his lady was at home. Prince Charles took his post upon a hill near
the house. Flora Macdonald waited on Lady Margaret, and acquainted her
of the enterprise in which she was engaged. Her ladyship, whose active
benevolence was ever seconded by superior talents, shewed a perfect
presence of mind, and readiness of invention, and at once settled that
Prince Charles should be conducted to old Rasay, who was himself
concealed with some select friends. The plan was instantly
communicated to Kingsburgh, who was dispatched to the hill to inform
the Wanderer, and carry him refreshments. When Kingsburgh approached,
he started up, and advanced, holding a large knotted stick, and in
appearance ready to knock him down, till he said, 'I am Macdonald of
Kingsburgh, come to serve your highness.' The Wanderer answered, 'It
is well,' and was satisfied with the plan.
Flora Macdonald dined with Lady Margaret, at whose table there sat an
officer of the army, stationed here with a party of soldiers, to watch
for Prince Charles in case of his flying to the isle of Sky. She
afterwards often laughed in good humour with this gentleman, on her
having so well deceived him.
After dinner, Flora Macdonald on horseback, and her supposed maid, and
Kingsburgh, with a servant carrying some linen, all on foot, proceeded
towards that gentleman's house. Upon the road was a small rivulet
which they were obliged to cross. The Wanderer, forgetting his assumed
sex, that his clothes might not be wet, held them up a great deal too
high. Kingsburgh mentioned this to him, observing, it might make a
discovery. He said he would be more careful for the future. He was as
good as his word; for the next brook they crossed, he did not hold up
his clothes at all, but let them float upon the water. He was very
awkward in his female dress. His size was so large, and his strides so
great, that some women whom they met reported that they had seen a
very big woman, who looked like a man in woman's clothes, and that
perhaps it was (as they expressed themselves) the PRINCE, after whom
so much search was making.
At Kingsburgh he met with a most cordial reception; seemed gay at
supper, and after it indulged himself in a cheerful glass with his
worthy host. As he had not had his clothes off for a long time, the
comfort of a good bed was highly relished by him, and he slept soundly
till next day at one o'clock.
The mistress of Corrichatachin told me, that in the forenoon she went
into her father's room, who was also in bed, and suggested to him her
apprehensions that a party of the military might come up, and that his
guest had better not remain here too long. Her father said, 'Let the
poor man repose himself after his fatigues; and as for me, I care not,
though they take off this old grey head ten or eleven years sooner
than I should die in the course of nature.' He then wrapped himself in
the bed-clothes, and again fell fast asleep.
On the afternoon of that day, the Wanderer, still in the same dress,
set out for Portree, with Flora Macdonald and a man servant. His shoes
being very bad, Kingsburgh provided him with a new pair, and taking up
the old ones, said, 'I will faithfully keep them till you are safely
settled at St James's. I will then introduce myself by shaking them at
you, to put you in mind of your night's entertainment and protection
under my roof.' He smiled, and said, 'Be as good as your word!'
Kingsburgh kept the shoes as long as he lived. After his death, a
zealous Jacobite gentleman gave twenty guineas for them. Old Mrs
Macdonald, after her guest had left the house, took the sheets in
which he had lain, folded them carefully, and charged her daughter
that they should be kept unwashed, and that, when she died, her body
should be wrapped in them as a winding sheet. Her will was religiously
observed.
Upon the road to Portree, Prince Charles changed his dress, and put on
man's clothes again; a tartan short coat and a waistcoat, with
philibeg and short hose, a plaid, and a wig and bonnet.
Mr Donald M'Donald, called Donald Roy, had been sent express to the
present Rasay, then the young laird, who was at that time at his
sister's house, about three miles from Portree, attending his brother,
Dr Macleod, who was recovering of a wound he had received at the
battle of Culloden. Mr M'Donald communicated to young Rasay the plan
of conveying the Wanderer to where old Rasay was; but was told that
old Rasay had fled to Knoidart, a part of Glengary's estate. There was
then a dilemma what should be done. Donald Roy proposed that he should
conduct the Wanderer to the main land; but young Rasay thought it too
dangerous at that time, and said it would be better to conceal him in
the island of Rasay, till old Rasay could be informed where he was,
and give his advice what was best. But the difficulty was, how to get
him to Rasay. They could not trust a Portree crew, and all the Rasay
boats had been destroyed, or carried off by the military except two
belonging to Malcolm M'Leod, which he had concealed somewhere.
Dr Macleod being informed of this difficulty, said he would risk his
life once more for Prince Charles; and it having occurred, that there
was a little boat upon a fresh water lake in the neighbourhood, young
Rasay and Dr Macleod, with the help of some women, brought it to the
sea, by extraordinary exertion, across a Highland mile of land, one
half of which was bog, and the other a steep precipice.
These gallant brothers, with the assistance of one little boy, rowed
the small boat to Rasay, where they were to endeavour to find Captain
M'Leod, as Malcolm was then called, and get one of his good boats,
with which they might return to Portree, and receive the Wanderer; or,
in case of not finding him, they were to make the small boat serve,
though the danger was considerable.
Fortunately, on their first landing, they found their cousin Malcolm,
who, with the utmost alacrity, got ready one of his boats, with two
strong men. John M'Kenzie, and Donald M'Friar. Malcolm, being the
oldest man, and most cautious, said, that as young Rasay had not
hitherto appeared in the unfortunate business, he ought not to run any
risk; but that Dr Macleod and himself, who were already publickly
engaged, should go on this expedition. Young Rasay answered, with an
oath, that he would go, at the risk of his life and fortune. 'In God's
name then,' said Malcolm, 'let us proceed.' The two boatmen, however,
now stopped short, till they should be informed of their destination;
and M'Kenzie declared he would not move an oar till he knew where they
were going. Upon which they were both sworn to secrecy; and the
business being imparted to them, they were eager to put off to sea
without loss of time. The boat soon landed about half a mile from the
inn at Portree.
All this was negotiated before the Wanderer got forward to Portree.
Malcolm M'Leod, and M'Friar, were dispatched to look for him. In a
short time he appeared, and went into the publick house. Here Donald
Roy, whom he had seen at Mugstot, received him, and informed him of
what had been concerted. He wanted silver for a guinea, but the
landlord had only thirteen shillings. He was going to accept of this
for his guinea; but Donald Roy very judiciously observed, that it
would discover him to be some great man; so he desisted. He slipped
out of the house, leaving his fair protectress, whom he never again
saw; and Malcolm Macleod was presented to him by Donald Roy, as a
captain in his army. Young Rasay and Dr Macleod had waited, in
impatient anxiety, in the boat. When he came, their names were
announced to him. He would not permit the usual ceremonies of respect,
but saluted them as his equals.
Donald Roy staid in Sky, to be in readiness to get intelligence, and
give an alarm in case the troops should discover the retreat to Rasay;
and Prince Charles was then conveyed in a boat to that island in the
night. He slept a little upon the passage, and they landed about
day-break. There was some difficulty in accommodating him with a
lodging, as almost all the houses in the island had been burnt by
soldiery. They repaired to a little hut, which some shepherds had
lately built, and having prepared it as well as they could, and made a
bed of heath for the stranger, they kindled a fire, and partook of
some provisions which had been sent with him from Kingsburgh. It was
observed, that he would not taste wheat-bread, or brandy, while
oat-bread and whisky lasted; 'for these,' said he, 'are my own
country's bread and drink'. This was very engaging to the Highlanders.
Young Rasay being the only person of the company that durst appear
with safety, he went in quest of something fresh for them to eat; but
though he was amidst his own cows, sheep, and goats, he could not
venture to take any of them for fear of a discovery, but was obliged
to supply himself by stealth. He therefore caught a kid, and brought
it to the hut in his plaid, and it was killed and drest, and furnished
them a meal which they relished much. The distressed Wanderer, whose
health was now a good deal impaired by hunger, fatigue, and watching,
slept a long time, but seemed to be frequently disturbed. Malcolm told
me he would start from broken slumbers, and speak to himself in
different languages, French, Italian, and English. I must however
acknowledge, that it is highly probable that my worthy friend Malcolm
did not know precisely the difference between French and Italian. One
of his expressions in English was, 'O God! Poor Scotland!'
While they were in the hut, M'Kenzie and M'Friar, the two boatmen,
were placed as sentinels upon different eminences; and one day an
incident happened, which must not be omitted. There was a man
wandering about the island, selling tobacco. Nobody knew him, and he
was suspected to be a spy. M'Kenzie came running to the hut, and told
that this suspected person was approaching. Upon which the three
gentlemen, young Rasay, Dr Macleod, and Malcom, held a council of war
upon him, and were unanimously of opinion that he should instantly be
put to death. Prince Charles, at once assuming a grave and even severe
countenance, said, 'God forbid that we should take away a man's life,
who may be innocent, while we can preserve our own.' The gentlemen
however persisted in their resolution, while he as strenuously
continued to take the merciful side. John M'Kenzie, who sat watching
at the door of the hut, and overheard the debate, said in Erse, 'Well,
well; he must be shot. You are the king, but we are the parliament,
and will do what we choose.' Prince Charles, seeing the gentlemen
smile, asked what the man had said, and being told it in English, he
observed that he was a clever fellow, and, notwithstanding the
perilous situation in which he was, laughed loud and heartily. Luckily
the unknown person did not perceive that there were people in the hut,
at least did not come to it, but walked on past it, unknowing of his
risk. It was afterwards found out that he was one of the Highland
army, who was himself in danger. Had he come to them, they were
resolved to dispatch him; for, as Malcolm said to me, 'We could not
keep him with us, and we durst not let him go. In such a situation, I
would have shot my brother, if I had not been sure of him.' John
M'Kenzie was at Rasay's house, when we were there.[Footnote: This old
Scottish Member of Parliament, I am Informed, is still living (1785).]
About eighteen years before, he hurt one of his legs when dancing, and
being obliged to have it cut off, he now was going about with a wooden
leg. The story of his being a Member of Parliament is not yet
forgotten. I took him out a little way from the house, gave him a
shilling to drink Rasay's health, and led him into a detail of the
particulars which I have just related. With less foundation, some
writers have traced the idea of a parliament, and of the British
constitution, in rude and early times. I was curious to know if he had
really heard, or understood, any thing of that subject, which, had he
been a greater man, would probably have been eagerly maintained. 'Why,
John,' said I, 'did you think the king should be controuled by a
parliament?' He answered, 'I thought, sir, there were many voices
against one.'
The conversation then turning on the times, the Wanderer said, that to
be sure, the life he had led of late was a very hard one; but he would
rather live in the way he now did, for ten years, than fall into the
hands of his enemies. The gentlemen asked him, what he thought his
enemies would do with him, should he have the misfortune to fall into
their hands. He said, he did not believe they would dare to take his
life publickly, but he dreaded being privately destroyed by poison or
assassination. He was very particular in his inquiries about the wound
which Dr Macleod had received at the battle of Culloden, from a ball
which entered at one shoulder, and went cross to the other. The doctor
happened still to have on the coat which he wore on that occasion. He
mentioned, that he himself had his horse shot under him at Culloden;
that the ball hit the horse about two inches from his knee, and made
him so unruly that he was obliged to change him for another. He threw
out some reflections on the conduct of the disastrous affair at
Culloden, saying, however, that perhaps it was rash in him to do so. I
am now convinced that his suspicions were groundless; for I have had a
good deal of conversation upon the subject with my very worthy and
ingenious friend, Mr Andrew Lumisden, who was under secretary to
Prince Charles, and afterwards principal secretary to his father at
Rome, who, he assured me, was perfectly satisfied both of the
abilities and honour of the generals who commanded the highland army
on that occasion. Mr Lumisden has written an account of the three
battles in 1745-6, at once accurate and classical. Talking of the
different Highland corps, the gentlemen who were present wished to
have his opinion which were the best soldiers. He said, he did not
like comparisons among those corps: they were all best.
He told his conductors, he did not think it advisable to remain long
in any one place; and that he expected a French ship to come for him
to Lochbroom, among the Mackenzies. It then was proposed to carry him
in one of Malcolm's boats to Lochbroom, though the distance was
fifteen leagues coastwise. But he thought this would be too dangerous,
and desired that at any rate, they might first endeavour to obtain
intelligence. Upon which young Rasay wrote to his friend, Mr M'Kenzie
of Applecross, but received an answer, that there was no appearance of
any French ship.
It was therefore resolved that they should return to Sky, which they
did, and landed in Strath, where they reposed in a cow-house belonging
to Mr Niccolson of Scorbreck. The sea was very rough, and the boat
took in a good deal of water. The Wanderer asked if there was danger,
as he was not used to such a vessel. Upon being told there was not, he
sung an Erse song with much vivacity. He had by this time acquired a
good deal of the Erse language.
Young Rasay was now dispatched to where Donald Roy was, that they
might get all the intelligence they could; and the Wanderer, with much
earnestness, charged Dr Macleod to have a boat ready, at a certain
place about seven miles off, as he said he intended it should carry
him upon a matter of great consequence; and gave the doctor a case,
containing a silver spoon, knife, and fork, saying, 'keep you that
till I see you', which the doctor understood to be two days from that
time. But all these orders were only blinds; for he had another plan
in his head, but wisely thought it safest to trust his secrets to no
more persons than was absolutely necessary. Having then desired
Malcolm to walk with him a little way from the house, he soon opened
his mind, saying, 'I deliver myself to you. Conduct me to the Laird of
M'Kinnon's country.' Malcolm objected that it was very dangerous, as
so many parties of soldiers were in motion. He answered. 'There is
nothing now to be done without danger.' He then said, that Malcolm
must be the master, and he the servant; so he took the bag, in which
his linen was put up, and carried it on his shoulder; and observing
that his waistcoat, which was of scarlet tartan, with a gold twist
button, was finer than Malcolm's, which was of a plain ordinary
tartan, he put on Malcolm's waistcoat, and gave him his; remarking at
the same time, that it did not look well that the servant should be
better dressed than the master.
Malcolm, though an excellent walker, found himself excelled by Prince
Charles, who told him, he should not much mind the parties that were
looking for him, were he once but a musquet shot from them; but that
he was somewhat afraid of the highlanders who were against him. He was
well used to walking in Italy, in pursuit of game; and he was even now
so keen a sportsman, that, having observed some partridges, he was
going to take a shot; but Malcolm cautioned him against it, observing
that the firing might be heard by the tenders who were hovering upon
the coast.
As they proceeded through the mountains, taking many a circuit to
avoid any houses, Malcolm, to try his resolution, asked him what they
should do, should they fall in with a party of soldiers: he answered.
'Fight to be sure!' Having asked Malcolm if he should be known in his
present dress, and Malcolm having replied he would, he said, 'Then
I'll blacken my face with powder.' 'That,' said Malcolm, 'would
discover you at once.'
'Then,' said he, 'I must be put in the greatest dishabille possible.'
So he pulled off his wig, tied a handkerchief round his head, and put
his night-cap over it, tore the ruffles from his shirt, took the
buckles out of his shoes, and made Malcolm fasten them with strings;
but still Malcolm thought he would be known. 'I have so odd a face,'
said he, 'that no man ever saw me but he would know me again.'
He seemed unwilling to give credit to the horrid narrative of men
being massacred in cold blood, after victory had declared for the army
commanded by the Duke of Cumberland. He could not allow himself to
think that a general could be so barbarous.
When they came within two miles of M'Kinnon's house, Malcolm asked if
he chose to see the laird. 'No,' said he, 'by no means. I know
M'Kinnon to be as good and as honest a man as any in the world, but he
is not fit for my purpose at present. You must conduct me to some
other house; but let it be a gentleman's house.' Malcolm then
determined that they should go to the house of his brother-in-law, Mr
John M'Kinnon, and from thence be conveyed to the main land of
Scotland, and claim the assistance of Macdonald of Scothouse. The
Wanderer at first objected to this, because Scothouse was cousin to a
person of whom he had suspicions. But he acquiesced in Malcolm's
opinion.
When they were near Mr John M'Kinnon's house, they met a man of the
name of Ross, who had been a private soldier in the Highland army. He
fixed his eyes steadily on the Wanderer in his disguise, and having at
once recognized him, he clapped his hands, and exclaimed, 'Alas! is
this the case?' Finding that there was now a discovery, Malcolm asked,
'What's to be done?' 'Swear him to secrecy,' answered Prince Charles.
Upon which Malcolm drew his dirk, and on the naked blade, made him
take a solemn oath, that he would say nothing of his having seen the
Wanderer, till his escape should be made publick.
Malcolm's sister, whose house they reached pretty early in the
morning, asked him who the person was that was along with him. He said
it was one Lewis Caw, from Crieff, who being a fugitive like himself,
for the same reason, he had engaged him as his servant, but that he
had fallen sick. 'Poor man!' said she, 'I pity him. At the same time
my heart warms to a man of his appearance.' Her husband was gone a
little way from home; but was expected every minute to return. She set
down to her brother a plentiful Highland breakfast. Prince Charles
acted the servant very well, sitting at a respectful distance, with
his bonnet off. Malcolm then said to him, 'Mr Caw, you have as much
need of this as I have; there is enough for us both: you had better
draw nearer and share with me.' Upon which he rose, made a profound
bow, sat down at table with his supposed master, and eat very
heartily. After this there came in an old woman, who, after the mode
of ancient hospitality, brought warm water, and washed Malcolm's feet.
He desired her to wash the feet of the poor man who attended him. She
at first seemed averse to this, from pride, as thinking him beneath
her, and in the periphrastick language of the highlanders and the
Irish, said warmly, 'Though I wash your father's son's feet, why
should I wash his father's son's feet?' She was however persuaded to
do it.
They then went to bed, and slept for some time; and when Malcolm
awaked, he was told that Mr John M'Kinnon, his brother-in-law, was in
sight. He sprang out to talk to him before he shoulld see Prince
Charles. After saluting him, Malcolm, pointing to the sea, said,
'What, John, if the prince should be prisoner on board one of those
tenders?' 'God forbid!' replied John. 'What if we had him here?' said
Malcolm. 'I wish we had,' answered John; 'we should take care of him.'
'Well, John,' said Malcolm, 'he is in your house.' John, in a
transport of joy, wanted to run directly in, and pay his obeisance;
but Malcolm stopped him, saying, 'Now is your time to behave well, and
do nothing that can discover him.' John composed himself, and having
sent away all his servants upon different errands, he was introduced
into the presence of his guest, and was then desired to go and get
ready a boat lying near his house, which, though but a small leaky
one, they resolved to take, rather than go to the Laird of M'Kinnon.
John M'Kinnon, however, thought otherwise; and upon his return told
them, that his chief and Lady M'Kinnon were coming in the laird's
boat. Prince Charles said to his trusty Malcolm. 'I am sorry for this,
but must make the best of it.' M'Kinnon then walked up from the shore,
and did homage to the Wanderer. His lady waited in a cave, to which
they all repaired, and were entertained with cold meat and wine. Mr
Malcolm M'Leod being now superseded by the Laird of M'Kinnon, desired
leave to return, which was granted him, and Prince Charles wrote a
short note, which he subscribed 'James Thompson', informing his
friends that he had got away from Sky, and thanking them for their
kindness; and he desired this might be speedily conveyed to young
Rasay and Dr Macleod, that they might not wait longer in expectation
of seeing him again. He bade a cordial adieu to Malcolm, and insisted
on his accepting of a silver stock-buckle, and ten guineas from his
purse, though, as Malcolm told me, it did not appear to contain above
forty. Malcolm at first begged to be excused, saying, that he had a
few guineas at his service; but Prince Charles answered, 'You will
have need of money. I shall get enough when I come upon the main
land.'
The Laird of M'Kinnon then conveyed him to the opposite coast of
Knoidart. Old Rasay, to whom intelligence had been sent, was crossing
at the same time to Sky; but as they did not know of each other, and
each had apprehensions, the two boats kept aloof.
These are the particulars which I have collected concerning the
extraordinary concealment and escapes of Prince Charles, in the
Hebrides. He was often in imminent danger. The troops traced him from
the Long Island, across Sky, to Portree, but there lost him.
Here I stop, having received no farther authentic information of his
fatigues and perils before he escaped to France. Kings and subjects
may both take a lesson of moderation from the melancholy fate of the
House of Stuart; that kings may not suffer degradation and exile, and
subjects may not be harrassed by the evils of a disputed succession.
Let me close the scene on that unfortunate House with the elegant and
pathetick reflections of Voltaire, in his Histoire Generale. 'Que les
hommes prives,' says that brilliant writer, speaking of Prince
Charles, 'qui se croyent malheureux, jettent les yeux sur ce prince et
ses ancetres.'
In another place he thus sums up the sad story of the family in
general:
II n'y a aucun exemple dans l'histoire d'une maison si longtems
infortunee. Le premier des Rois d'Ecosse, qui eut le nom de Jacques,
apres avoir ete dix-huit ans prisonnier en Angleterre, mourut
assassine, avec sa femme, par la main de ses sujets. Jacques II, son
fils, fut tue a vingt-neuf ans en combattant centre les Anglois.
Jacques III, mis en prison par son peuple, fut tue ensuite par les
revoltes, dans une battaille. Jacques IV perit dans un combat qu'il
perdit. Marie Stuart, sa petite fille, chassee, de son trone, fugitive
en Angleterre, ayant langui dix-huit ans en prison, se vit condamnee a
mort par des juges Anglais, et eut la tete tranchee. Charles I, petit
fils de Marie, Roi d'Ecosse et d'Angleterre, vendu par les Ecossois,
et juge a mort par les Anglais, mourut sur un echauffaut dans la place
publique. Jacques, son fils, septieme du nom, et deuxieme en
Angleterre, fut chasse de ses trois royaumes; et pour comble de
malheur on contesta a son fils sa naissance; le fils ne tenta de
remonter sur le trone de ces peres, que pour faire perir ses amis par
des bourreaux; et nous avons vu le Prince Charles Edouard, reunuissant
en vain les vertus de ses peres, et le courage du Roy Jean Sobieski,
son ayeul maternel, executer les exploits et essuyer les malheurs les
plus incroyables. Si quelque chose justifie ceux qui croyent une
fatalite a laquelle rien ne peut se soustraire, c'est cette suite
continuelle de malheurs qui a persecute la maison de Stuart, pendant
plus de trois-cent annees.
The gallant Malcolm was apprehended in about ten days after they
separated, put aboard a ship and carried prisoner to London. He said,
the prisoners in general were very ill treated in their passage; but
there were soldiers on board who lived well, and sometimes invited him
to share with them: that he had the good fortune not to be thrown into
jail, but was confined in the house of a messenger, of the name of
Dick. To his astonishment, only one witness could be found against
him, though he had been so openly engaged; and therefore, for want of
sufficient evidence, he was set at liberty. He added, that he thought
himself in such danger, that he would gladly have compounded for
banishment. Yet, he said, he should never be so ready for death as he
then was. There is philosophical truth in this. A man will meet death
much more firmly at one time than another. The enthusiasm even of a
mistaken principle warms the mind, and sets it above the fear of
death; which in our cooler moments, if we really think of it, cannot
but be terrible, or at least very awful.
Miss Flora Macdonald being then also in London, under the protection
of Lady Primrose, that lady provided a post-chaise to convey her to
Scotland, and desired she might choose any friend she pleased to
accompany her. She chose Malcolm. 'So,' said he, with a triumphant
air, 'I went to London to be hanged, and returned in a post-chaise
with Miss Flora Macdonald.'
Mr Macleod of Muiravenside, whom we saw at Rasay, assured us that
Prince Charles was in London in 1759, and that there was then a plan
in agitation for restoring his family. Dr Johnson could scarcely
credit this story, and said, there could be no probable plan at that
time. Such an attempt could not have succeeded, unless the King of
Prussia had stopped the army in Germany; for both the army and the
fleet would, even without orders, have fought for the King, to whom
they had engaged themselves.
Having related so many particulars concerning the grandson of the
unfortunate King James the Second; having given due praise to fidelity
and generous attachment, which, however erroneous the judgement may
be, are honourable for the heart; I must do the highlanders the
justice to attest, that I found every where amongst them a high
opinion of the virtues of the King now upon the throne, and an honest
disposition to be faithful subjects to his majesty, whose family had
possessed the sovereignty of this country so long, that a change, even
for the abdicated family, would now hurt the best feelings of all his
subjects.
The abstract point of right would involve us in a discussion of remote
and perplexed questions; and after all, we should have no clear
principle of decision. That establishment, which, from political
necessity, took place in 1688, by a breach in the succession of our
kings, and which, whatever benefits may have accrued from it,
certainly gave a shock to our monarchy, the able and constitutional
Blackstone, wisely rests on the solid footing of authority: 'Our
ancestors having most indisputably a competent jurisdiction to decide
this great and important question, and having, in fact decided it, it
is now become our duty, at this distance of time, to acquiesce in
their determination.' [Footnote: Commentaries on the Laws of England,
Book I. chap. 3.]
Mr Paley, the present Archdeacon of Carlisle, in his Principles of
Moral and Political Philosophy, having, with much clearness of
argument, shewn the duty of submission to civil government to be
founded neither on an indefeasible jus divinum, nor on COMPACT, but on
EXPEDIANCY, lays down this rational position:
Irregularity in the first foundation of a state, or subsequent
violence, fraud, or injustice, in getting possession of the supreme
power, are not sufficient reasons for resistance, after the government
is once peaceably settled. No subject of the British Empire conceives
himself engaged to vindicate the justice of the Norman claim or
conquest, or apprehends that his duty in any manner depends upon that
controversy. So likewise, if the house of Lancaster, or even the
posterity of Cromwell, had been at this day seated upon the throne of
England, we should have been as little concerned to enquire how the
founder of the family came there. [Footnote: Book VI. chap. 3. Since I
have quoted Mr Archdeacon Paley upon one subject, I cannot but
transcribe, from his excellent work, a distinguished passage in
support of the Christian Revelation. After shewing, in decent but
strong terms, the unfairness of the INDIRECT attempts of modern
infidels to unsettle and perplex religious principles, and
particularly the irony, banter, and sneer, of one whom he politely
calls 'an eloquent historian', the archdeacon thus expresses himself:
'Seriousness is not constraint of thought; nor levity, freedom. Every
mind which wishes the advancement of truth and knowledge, in the most
important of all human researches, must abhor this licentiousness, as
violating no less the laws of reasoning than the rights of decency.
There is but one description of men to whose principles it ought to be
tolerable. I mean that class of reasoners who can see LITTLE in
Christianity even supposing it to be true. To such adversaries we
address this reflection. Had Jesus Christ delivered no other
declaration than the following, "The hour is coming in the which all
that are in the graves shall hear his voice, and shall come forth,
--they that have done well unto the resurrection of life, and they
that have done evil unto the resurrection of damnation," he had
pronounced a message of inestimable importance, and well worthy of
that splendid apparatus of prophecy and miracles with which his
mission was introduced and attested--a message in which the wisest of
mankind would rejoice to find an answer to their doubts, and rest to
their inquiries. It is idle to say that a future state had been
discovered already. It had been discovered as the Copernican System
was; it was one guess amongst many. He alone discovers who PROVES; and
no man can prove this point but the teacher who testifies by miracles
that his doctrine comes from God' (Book V. chap. 9).
If infidelity be disingenuously dispersed in every shape that is
likely to allure, surprise, or beguile the imagination--in a fable, a
tale, a novel, a poem, in books of travels, of philosophy, of natural
history, as Mr Paley has well observed--I hope it is fair in me thus
to meet such poison with an unexpected antidote, which I cannot doubt
will be found powerful.]
In conformity with this doctrine, I myself, though fully persuaded
that the House of Stuart had originally no right to the crown of
Scotland; for that Baliol, and not Bruce, was the lawful heir; should
yet have thought it very culpable to have rebelled, on that account,
against Charles the First, or even a prince of that house much nearer
the time, in order to assert the claim of the posterity of Baliol.
However convinced I am of the justice of that principle, which holds
allegiance and protection to be reciprocal, I do however acknowledge,
that I am not satisfied with the cold sentiment which would confine
the exertions of the subject within the strict line of duty. I would
have every breast animated with the FERVOUR of loyalty; with that
generous attachment which delights in doing somewhat more than is
required, and makes 'service perfect freedom'. And, therefore, as our
most gracious Sovereign, on his accession to the throne, gloried in
being born a Briton; so, in my more private sphere, Ego me nunc
denique natum gratulor. I am happy that a disputed succession no
longer distracts our minds; and that a monarchy, established by law,
is now so sanctioned by time, that we can fully indulge those feelings
of loyalty which I am ambitious to excite. They are feelings which
have ever actuated the inhabitants of the Highlands and the Hebrides.
The plant of loyalty is there in full vigour, and the Brunswick graft
now flourishes like a native shoot. To that spirited race of people I
may with propriety apply the elegant lines of a modern poet, on the
'facile temper of the beauteous sex':
Like birds new-caught, who flutter for a time.
And struggle with captivity in vain;
But by-and-by they rest, they smooth their plumes.
And to NEW MASTERS sing their former notes. [Footnote: Agis, a
tragedy, by John Home.]
Surely such notes are much better than the querulous growlings of
suspicious Whigs and discontented Republicans.
Kingsburgh conducted us in his boat, across one of the lochs, as they
call them, or arms of the sea, which flow in upon all the coasts of
Sky, to a mile beyond a place called Grishinish. Our horses had been
sent round by land to meet us. By this sail we saved eight miles of
bad riding. Dr Johnson said, 'When we take into the computation what
we have saved, and what we have gained, by this agreeable sail, it is
a great deal.' He observed, 'it is very disagreeable riding in Sky.
The way is so narrow, one only at a time can travel, so it is quite
unsocial; and you cannot indulge in meditation by yourself, because
you must be always attending to the steps which your horse takes.'
This was a just and clear description of its inconveniencies.
The topick of emigration being again introduced, Dr Johnson said, that
'a rapacious chief would make a wilderness of his estate'. Mr Donald
M'Queen told us, that the oppression, which then made so much noise,
was owing to landlords listening to bad advice in the letting of their
lands; that interested and designed people flattered them with golden
dreams of much higher rents than could reasonably be paid; and that
some of the gentlemen tacksmen, or upper tenants, were themselves in
part the occasion of the mischief, by over-rating the farms of others.
That many of the tacksmen, rather than comply with exorbitant demands,
had gone off to America, and impoverished the country, by draining it
of its wealth; and that their places were filled by a number of poor
people, who had lived under them, properly speaking, as servants, paid
by a certain proportion of the produce of the lands, though called
sub-tenants. I observed, that if the men of substance were once
banished from a Highland estate, it might probably be greatly reduced
in its value; for one bad year might ruin a set of poor tenants, and
men of any property would not settle in such a country, unless from
the temptation of getting land extremely cheap; for an inhabitant of
any good county in Britain, had better go to America than to the
Highlands or the Hebrides. Here, therefore was a consideration that
ought to induce a chief to act a more liberal part, from a mere motive
of interest, independent of the lofty and honourable principle of
keeping a clan together, to be in readiness to serve his king. I
added, that I could not help thinking a little arbitrary power in the
sovereign, to control the bad policy and greediness of the chiefs,
might sometimes be of service. In France a chief would not be
permitted to force a number of the king's subjects out of the country.
Dr Johnson concurred with me, observing, that 'were an oppressive
chieftain a subject of the French king, he would probably be
admonished by a LETTER'.
During our sail, Dr Johnson asked about the use of the dirk, with
which he imagined the highlanders cut their meat. He was told, they
had a knife and fork besides, to eat with. He asked, how did the women
do? and was answered, some of them had a knife and fork too; but in
general the men, when they had cut their meat, handed their knives and
forks to the women, and they themselves eat with their fingers. The
old tutor of Macdonald always eat fish with his fingers, alledging
that a knife and fork gave it a bad taste. I took the liberty to
observe to Dr Johnson, that he did so. 'Yes,' said he; 'but it is
because I am short-sighted, and afraid of bones, for which reason I am
not fond of eating many kinds of fish, because I must use my fingers.'
Dr M'Pherson's Dissertations on Scottish Antiquities, which he had
looked at when at Corrichatachin, being mentioned, he remarked, that
'you might read half an hour, and ask yourself what you had been
reading: there were so many words to so little matter, that there was
no getting through the book'. As soon as we reached the shore, we took
leave of Kingsburgh, and mounted our horses. We passed through a wild
moor, in many places so soft that we were obliged to walk, which was
very fatiguing to Dr Johnson. Once he had advanced on horseback to a
very bad step. There was a steep declivity on his left, to which he
was so near, that there was not room for him to dismount in the usual
way. He tried to alight on the other side, as if he had been a 'young
buck' indeed, but in the attempt he fell at his length upon the
ground; from which, however, he got up immediately without being hurt.
During this dreary ride, we were sometimes relieved by a view of
branches of the sea, that universal medium of connection amongst
mankind. A guide, who had been sent with us from Kingsburgh, explored
the way (much in the same manner as, I suppose, is pursued in the
wilds of America) by observing certain marks known only to the
inhabitants. We arrived at Dunvegan late in the afternoon. The great
size of the castle, which is partly old and partly new, and is built
upon a rock close to the sea, while the land around it presents
nothing but wild, moorish, hilly, and craggy appearances, gave a rude
magnificence to the scene. Having dismounted, we ascended a flight of
steps, which was made by the late Macleod, for the accomodation of
persons coming to him by land, there formerly being, for security, no
other access to the castle but from the sea; so that visitors who came
by the land were under the necessity of getting into a boat, and
sailed round to the only place where it could be approached. We were
introduced into a stately dining-room, and received by Lady Macleod,
mother of the laird, who, with his friend Talisker, having been
detained on the road, did not arrive till some time after us.
We found the lady of the house a very polite and sensible woman, who
had lived for some time in London, and had there been in Dr Johnson's
company. After we had dined, we repaired to the drawing-room, where
some of the young ladies of the family, with their mother, were at
tea. This room had formerly been the bed-chamber of Sir Roderick
Macleod, one of the old lairds; and he chose it, because, behind it,
there was a considerable cascade, the sound of which disposed him to
sleep. Above his bed was this inscription: SIR RORIE M'LEOD OF
DUNVEGAN, KNIGHT. GOD SEND GOOD REST! Rorie is the contraction of
Roderick. He was called Rorie More, that is, great Rorie, not from his
size, but from his spirit. Our entertainment here was in so elegant a
style, and reminded my fellow-traveller so much of England, that he
became quite joyous. He laughed, and said, 'Boswell, we came in at the
wrong end of this island.' 'Sir,' said I, 'it was best to keep this
for the last.' He answered, 'I would have it both first and last.'
Tuesday, 14th September
Dr Johnson said in the morning, 'Is not this a fine lady?' There was
not a word now of his 'impatience to be in civilized life'; though
indeed I should beg pardon--he found it here. We had slept well, and
lain long. After breakfast we surveyed the castle, and the garden. Mr
Bethune, the parish minister, Magnus M'Leod, of Claggan, brother to
Talisker, and M'Leod, of Bay, two substantial gentlemen of the clan,
dined with us. We had admirable venison, generous wine; in a word, all
that a good table has. This was really the hall of a chief. Lady
M'Leod had been much obliged to my father, who had settled by
arbitration, a variety of perplexed claims between her and her
relation, the Laird of Brodie, which she now repaid by particular
attention to me. M'Leod started the subject of making women do penance
in the church for fornication. JOHNSON. 'It is right, sir. Infamy is
attached to the crime, by universal opinion, as soon as it is known. I
would not be the man who would discover it, if I alone knew it, for a
woman may reform; nor would I commend a parson who divulges a woman's
first offence; but being once divulged, it ought to be infamous.
Consider, of what importance to society the chastity of women is. Upon
that all the property in the world depends. We hang a thief for
stealing a sheep; but the unchastity of a woman transfers sheep, and
farm and all, from the right owner. I have much more reverence for a
common prostitute than for a woman who conceals her guilt. The
prostitute is known. She cannot deceive: she cannot bring a strumpet
into the arms of an honest man, without his knowledge.' BOSWELL.
'There is, however, a great difference between the licentiousness of a
single woman, and that of a married woman.' JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; there
is a great difference between stealing a shilling, and stealing a
thousand pounds; between simply taking a man's purse, and murdering
him first, and then taking it. But when one begins to be vicious, it
is easy to go on. Where single women are licentious, you rarely find
faithful married women.' BOSWELL. 'And yet we are told that in some
nations in India, the distinction is strictly observed.' JOHNSON.
'Nay, don't give us India. That puts me in mind of Montesquieu, who is
really a fellow of genius too in many respects; whenever he wants to
support a strange opinion, he quotes you the practice of Japan or of
some other distant country, of which he knows nothing. To support
polygamy, he tells you of the island of Formosa, where there are ten
women born for one man. He had but to suppose another island, where
there are ten men born for one woman, and so make a marriage between
them.' [Footnote: What my friend treated as so wild a supposition, has
actually happened in the western islands of Scotland, if we may
believe Martin, who tells it of the islands of Col and Tyr-yi, and
says that it is proved by the parish registers.]
At supper, Lady Macleod mentioned Dr Cadogan's book on the gout.
JOHNSON. 'It is a good book in general, but a foolish one in
particulars. It is good in general, as recommending temperance and
exercise, and cheerfulness. In that respect it is only Dr Cheyne's
book told in a new way; and there should come out such a book every
thirty years, dressed in the mode of the times. It is foolish, in
maintaining that the gout is not hereditary, and that one fit of it,
when gone, is like a fever when gone.' Lady Macleod objected that the
author does not practice what he teaches. [Footnote: This was a
general reflection against Dr Cadogan, when his very popular book was
first published. It was said, that whatever precepts he might give to
others, he himself indulged freely in the bottle. But I have since had
the pleasure of becoming acquainted with him, and, if his own
testimony may be believed (and I have never heard it impeached), his
course of life, has been conformable to his doctrine.] JOHNSON. 'I
cannot help that, madam. That does not make his book the worse. People
are influenced more by what a man says, if his practice is suitable to
it, because they are blockheads. The more intellectual people are, the
readier will they attend to what a man tells them. If it is just, they
will follow it, be his practice what it will. No man practises so well
as he writes. I have, all my life long, been lying till noon; yet I
tell all young men, and tell them with great sincerity, that nobody
who does not rise early will ever do any good. Only consider! You read
a book; you are convinced by it; you do not know the authour. Suppose
you afterwards know him, and find that he does not practice what he
teaches; are you to give up your former conviction At this rate you
would be kept in a state of equilibrium, when reading every book, till
you knew how the authour practised.' 'But,' said Lady M'Leod, 'you
would think better of Dr Cadogan, if he acted according to his
principles.' JOHNSON. 'Why, madam, to be sure, a man who acts in the
face of light, is worse than a man who does not know so much; yet I
think no man should be the worse thought of for publishing good
principles. There is something noble in publishing truth, though it
condemns one's self.' I expressed some surprize at Cadogan's
recommending good humour, as if it were quite in our power to attain
it. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, a man grows better humoured as he grows older.
He improves by experience. When young, he thinks himself of great
consequence, and every thing of importance. As he advances in life, he
learns to think himself of no consequence, and little things of little
importance; and so he becomes more patient, and better pleased. All
good humour and complaisance are acquired. Naturally a child seizes
directly what it sees, and thinks of pleasing itself only. By degrees,
it is taught to please others, and to prefer others; and that this
will ultimately produce the greatest happiness. If a man is not
convinced of that, he never will practice it. Common language speaks
the truth as to this: we say, a person is well BRED.
As it is said, that all material motion is primarily in a right line,
and is never per circuitum, never in another form, unless by some
particular cause; so it may be said intellectual motion is.' Lady
M'Leod asked, if no man was naturally good. JOHNSON. 'No, madam, no
more than a wolf.' BOSWELL. 'Nor no woman, sir?' JOHNSON. 'No, sir.'
Lady M'Leod started at this, saying, in a low voice, 'This is worse
than Swift.'
M'Leod of Ulinish had come in the afternoon. We were a jovial company
at supper. The laird, surrounded by so many of his clan, was to me a
pleasing sight. They listened with wonder and pleasure, while Dr
Johnson harangued. I am vexed that I cannot take down his full train
of eloquence.
Wednesday, 15th September
The gentlemen of the clan went away early in the morning to the
harbour of Lochbradale, to take leave of some of their friends who
were going to America. It was a very wet day. We looked at Rorie
More's horn, which is a large cow's horn, with the mouth of it
ornamented with silver curiously carved. It holds rather more than a
bottle and a half. Every laird of M'Leod, it is said, must, as a proof
of his manhood, drink it off full of claret, without laying it down.
From Rorie More many of the branches of the family are descended; in
particular, the Talisker branch; so that his name is much talked of.
We also saw his bow, which hardly any man now can bend, and his
glaymore, which was wielded with both hands, and is of a prodigious
size. We saw here some old pieces of iron armour, immensely heavy. The
broadsword now used, though called the glaymore (i.e. the great
sword), is much smaller than that used in Rorie More's time. There is
hardly a target now to be found in the Highlands. After the disarming
act, they made them serve as covers to their butter-milk barrels; a
kind of change, like beating spears into pruning-hooks. Sir George
Mackenzie's Works (the folio edition) happened to lie in a window in
the dining room. I asked Dr Johnson to look at the Characteres
Advocatorum. He allowed him power of mind, and that he understood very
well what he tells; but said, that there was too much declamation, and
that the Latin was not correct. He found fault with approprinquabant,
in the character of Gilmour. I tried him with the opposition between
gloria and palma, in the comparison between Gilmour and Nisbet, which
Lord Hailes, in his Catalogue of the Lords of Session, thinks
difficult to be understood. The words are, penes ittum gloria, penes
hunc palma. In a short Account of the Kirk of Scotland, which I
published some years ago, I applied these words to the two contending
parties, and explained them thus: 'The popular party has most
eloquence; Dr Robertson's party most influence.' I was very desirous
to hear Dr Johnson's explication. JOHNSON. 'I see no difficulty.
Gilmour was admired for his parts; Nisbet carried his cause by the
skill in law. Palma is victory.' I observed, that the character of
Nicholson, in this book resembled that of Burke: for it is said, in
one place, in omnes lusos & jocos se saepe resolvebat; [Footnote: He
often indulged himself in every species of pleasantry and wit.] and,
in another, sed accipitris more e conspectu aliquando astantium
sublimi se protrahens volatu, in praedam miro impetu descendebat.
[Footnote: But like the hawk, having soared with a lofty flight to a
height which the eye could not reach, he was want to swoop upon his
quarry with wonderful rapidity.] JOHNSON. 'No, sir; I never heard
Burke make a good joke in my life.' BOSWELL. 'But, sir, you will allow
he is a hawk.' Dr Johnson, thinking that I meant this of his joking,
said, 'No, sir, he is not the hawk there. He is the beetle in the
mire.' I still adhered to my metaphor. 'But he SOARS as the hawk.'
JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; but he catches nothing.' M'Leod asked, what is the
particular excellence of Burke's eloquence? JOHNSON. 'Copiousness and
fertility of allusion; a power of diversifying his matter, by placing
it in various relations. Burke has great information, and great
command of language; though, in my opinion, it has not in every
respect the highest elegance.' BOSWELL. 'Do you think, sir, that Burke
has read Cicero much?' JOHNSON. 'I don't believe it, sir. Burke has
great knowledge, great fluency of words, and great promptness of
ideas, so that he can speak with great illustration on any subject
that comes before him. He is neither like Cicero, nor like
Demosthenes, nor like any one else, but speaks as well as he can.'
In the 65th page of the first volume of Sir George Mackenzie, Dr
Johnson pointed out a paragraph beginning with 'Aristotle', and told
me there was an error in the text, which he bade me try to discover. I
was lucky enough to hit it at once. As the passage is printed, it is
said that the devil answers EVEN in ENGINES. I corrected it to--EVER
in AENIGMAS. 'Sir,' said he, 'you are a good critick. This would have
been a great thing to do in the text of an ancient authour.'
Thursday, 16th September
Last night much care was taken of Dr Johnson, who was still distressed
by his cold. He had hitherto most strangely slept without a night-cap.
Miss M'Leod made him a large flannel one, and he was prevailed with to
drink a little brandy when he was going to bed. He has great virtue,
in not drinking wine or any fermented liquor, because, as he
acknowledged to us, he could not do it in moderation. Lady M'Leod
would hardly believe him, and said, 'I am sure, sir, you would not
carry it too far.' JOHNSON. 'Nay, madam, it carried me. I took the
opportunity of a long illness to leave it off. It was then prescribed
to me not to drink wine; and having broken off the habit, I have never
returned to it.'
In the argument on Tuesday night, about natural goodness, Dr Johnson
denied that any child was better than another, but by difference of
instruction; though, in consequence of greater attention being paid to
instruction by one child than another, and of a variety of
imperceptible causes, such as instruction being counteracted by
servants, a notion was conceived, that of two children, equally well
educated, one was naturally much worse than another. He owned, this
morning, that one might have a greater aptitude to learn than another,
and that we inherit dispositions from our parents. 'I inherited,' said
he, 'a vile melancholy from my father, which has made me mad all my
life, at least not sober.' Lady M'Leod wondered he should tell this.
'Madam,' said I, 'he knows that with that madness he is superior to
other men.'
I have often been astonished with what exactness and perspicuity he
will explain the process of any art. He this morning explained to us
all the operation of coining, and, at night, all the operation of
brewing, so very clearly, that Mr M'Queen said, when he heard the
first, he thought he had been bred in the Mint; when he heard the
second, that he had been bred a brewer.
I was elated by the thought of having been able to entice such a man
to this remote part of the world. A ludicrous, yet just image
presented itself to my mind, which I expressed to the company. I
compared myself to a dog who has got hold of a large piece of meat,
and runs away with it to a corner, where he may devour it in peace,
without any fear of others taking it from him. 'In London, Reynolds,
Beauclerk, and all of them, are contending who shall enjoy Dr
Johnson's conversation. We are feasting upon it, undisturbed, at
Dunvegan.'
It was still a storm of wind and rain. Dr Johnson however walked out
with M'Leod, and saw Rorie More's cascade in full perfection. Colonel
M'Leod, instead of being all life and gaiety, as I have seen him, was
at present grave, and somewhat depressed by his anxious concern about
M'Leod's affairs, and by finding some gentlemen of the clan by no
means disposed to act a generous or affectionate part to their chief
in his distress, but bargaining with him as with a stranger. However,
he was agreeable and polite, and Dr Johnson said, he was a very
pleasing man. My fellow-traveller and I talked of going to Sweden;
and, while we were settling our plan, I expressed a pleasure in the
prospect of seeing the king. JOHNSON. 'I doubt, sir, if he would speak
to us.' Colonel M'Leod said, 'I am sure Mr Boswell would speak to
HIM.' But, seeing me a little disconcerted by his remark, he politely
added, 'and with great propriety'. Here let me offer a short defence
of that propensity in my disposition, to which this gentleman alluded.
It has procured me much happiness. I hope it does not deserve so hard
a name as either forwardness or impudence. If I know myself, it is
nothing more than an eagerness to share the society of men
distinguished either by their rank or their talents, and a diligence
to attain what I desire. If a man is praised for seeking knowledge,
though mountains and seas are in his way, may he not be pardoned,
whose ardour, in the pursuit of the same object, leads him to
encounter difficulties as great, though of a different kind?
After the ladies were gone from table, we talked of the highlanders
not having sheets; and this led us to consider the advantage of
wearing linen. JOHNSON. 'All animal substances are less cleanly than
vegetables. Wool, of which flannel is made, is an animal substance;
flannel therefore is not so cleanly as linen. I remember I used to
think tar dirty; but when I knew it to be only a preparation of the
juice of the pine, I thought so no longer. It is not disagreeable to
have the gum that oozes from a plumb-tree upon your fingers, because
it is vegetable, but if you have any candle-grease, any tallow upon
your fingers, you are uneasy till you rub it off. I have often
thought, that, if I kept a seraglio, the ladies should all wear linen
gowns, or cotton--I mean stuffs made of vegetable substances. I would
have no silk; you cannot tell when it is clean: it will be very nasty
before it is perceived to be so. Linen detects its own dirtiness.'
To hear the grave Dr Samuel Johnson, 'that majestick teacher of moral
and religious wisdom', while sitting solemn in an arm-chair in the
Isle of Sky, talk, ex cathedra, of his keeping a seraglio, and
acknowledge that the supposition had OFTEN been in his thoughts,
struck me so forcibly with ludicrous contrast, that I could not but
laugh immoderately. He was too proud to submit, even for a moment, to
be the object of ridicule, and instantly retaliated with such keen
sarcastick wit, and such a variety of degrading images, of every one
of which I was the object, that, though I can bear such attacks as
well as most men, I yet found myself so much the sport of all the
company, that I would gladly expunge from my mind every trace of this
severe retort.
Talking of our friend Langton's house in Lincolnshire, he said, 'the
old house of the family was burnt. A temporary building was erected in
its room; and to this day they have been always adding as the family
increased. It is like a shirt made for a man when he was a child, and
enlarged always as he grows older.'
We talked to-night of Luther's allowing the Landgrave of Hesse two
wives, and that it was with the consent of the wife to whom he was
first married. JOHNSON. 'There was no harm in this, so far as she was
only concerned, because volenti non fit injuria. But it was an offence
against the general order of society, and against the law of the
Gospel, by which one man and one woman are to be united. No man can
have two wives, but by preventing somebody else from having one.'
Friday, 17th September
After dinner yesterday, we had a conversation upon cunning. M'Leod
said that he was not afraid of cunning people; but would let them play
their tricks about him like monkeys. 'But,' said I, 'they scratch';
and Mr M'Queen added, 'they'll invent new tricks, as soon as you find
out what they do.' JOHNSON. 'Cunning has effect from the credulity of
others, rather than from the abilities of those who are cunning. It
requires no extraordinary talents to lie and deceive.' This led us to
consider whether it did not require great abilities to be very wicked.
JOHNSON. 'It requires great abilities to have the POWER of being very
wicked; but not to BE very wicked. A man who has the power, which
great abilities procure him, may use it well or ill; and it requires
more abilities to use it well, than to use it ill. Wickedness is
always easier than virtue; for it takes the short cut to every thing.
It is much easier to steal a hundred pounds, than to get it by labour,
or any other way. Consider only what act of wickedness requires great
abilities to commit it, when once the person who is to do it has the
power; for THERE is the distinction. It requires great abilities to
conquer an army, but none to massacre it after it is conquered.'
The weather this day was rather better than any that we had since we
came to Dunvegan. Mr M'Queen had often mentioned a curious piece of
antiquity near this which he called a temple of the goddess Anaitis.
Having often talked of going to see it, he and I set out after
breakfast, attended by his servant, a fellow quite like a savage. I
must observe here, that in Sky there seems to be much idleness; for
men and boys follow you, as colts follow passengers upon a road. The
usual figure of a Sky boy, is a lown with bare legs and feet, a dirty
kilt, ragged coat and waistcoat, a bare head, and a stick in his hand,
which, I suppose, is partly to help the lazy rogue to walk, partly to
serve as a kind of a defensive weapon. We walked what is called two
miles, but is probably four, from the castle, till we came to the
sacred place. The country around is a black dreary moor on all sides,
except to the sea-coast, towards which there is a view through a
valley, and the farm of Bay shews some good land. The place itself is
green ground, being well drained, by means of a deep glen on each
side, in both of which there runs a rivulet with a good quantity of
water, forming several cascades, which make a considerable appearance
and sound. The first thing we came to was an earthen mound, or dyke,
extending from the one precipice to the other. A little farther on,
was a strong stone-wall, not high, but very thick, extending in the
same manner. On the outside of it were the ruins of two houses, one on
each side of the entry or gate to it. The wall is built all along of
uncemented stones, but of so large a size as to make a very firm and
durable rampart. It has been built all about the consecrated ground,
except where the precipice is deep enough to form an enclosure of
itself. The sacred spot contains more than two acres. There are within
it the ruins of many houses, none of them large, a cairn, and many
graves marked by clusters of stones. Mr M'Queen insisted that the ruin
of a small building, standing east and west, was actually the temple
of the goddess Anaitis, where her statue was kept, and from whence
processions were made to wash it in one of the brooks. There is, it
must be owned, a hollow road visible for a good way from the entrance;
but Mr M'Queen, with the keen eye of an antiquary, traced it much
farther than I could perceive it. There is not above a foot and a half
in height of the walls now remaining; and the whole extent of the
building was never, I imagine, greater than an ordinary Highland
house. Mr M'Queen has collected a great deal of learning on the
subject of the temple of Anaitis; and I had endeavoured, in my
journal, to state such particulars as might give some idea of it, and
of the surrounding scenery; but from the great difficulty of
describing visible objects, I found my account so unsatisfactory, that
my readers would probably have exclaimed
And write about it, Goddess, and about it; and therefore I have
omitted it. When we got home, and were again at table with Dr Johnson,
we first talked of portraits. He agreed in thinking them valuable in
families. I wished to know which he preferred, fine portraits, or
those of which the merit was resemblance. JOHNSON. 'Sir, their chief
excellence is being like.' BOSWELL. 'Are you of that opinion as to the
portraits of ancestors, whom one has never seen?' JOHNSON. 'It then
becomes of more consequence that they should be like; and I would have
them in the dress of the times, which makes a piece of history. One
should like to see how Rorie More looked. Truth, sir, is of the
greatest value in these things.' Mr M'Queen observed, that if you
think it of no consequence whether portraits are like, if they are but
well painted, you may be indifferent whether a piece of history is
true or not, if well told.
Dr Johnson said at breakfast to day, 'that it was but of late that
historians bestowed pains and attention in consulting records, to
attain to accuracy. Bacon, in writing his History of Henry VII, does
not seem to have consulted any, but to have just taken what he found
in other histories, and blended it with what he learnt by tradition.'
He agreed with me that there should be a chronicle kept in every
considerable family, to preserve the characters and transactions of
successive generations.
After dinner I started the subject of the temple of Anaitis. Mr
M'Queen had laid stress on the name given to the place by the country
people, Ainnit; and added, 'I knew not what to make of this piece of
antiquity, till I met with the Anaitidis delubrum in Lydia, mentioned
by Pausanias and the elder Pliny.' Dr Johnson, with his usual
acuteness, examined Mr M'Queen as to the meaning of the word Ainnit,
in Erse; and it proved to be a WATER-PLACE, or a place near water,
'which,' said Mr M'Queen, 'agrees with all the descriptions of the
temples of that goddess, which were situated near rivers, that there
might be water to wash the statue'. JOHNSON. 'Nay, sir, the argument
from the name is gone. The name is exhausted by what we see. We have
no occasion to go to a distance for what we can pick up under our
feet. Had it been an accidental name, the similarity between it and
Anaitis might have had something in it; but it turns out to be a mere
physiological name.' Macleod said, Mr M'Queen's knowledge of etymology
had destroyed his conjecture. JOHNSON. 'You have one possibility for
you, and all possibilities against you. It is possible it may be the
temple of Anaitis. But it is also possible that it may be a
fortification; or it may be a place of Christian worship, as the first
Christians often chose remote and wild places, to make an impression
on the mind; or, if it was a heathen temple, it may have been built
near a river, for the purpose of lustration; and there is such a
multitude of divinities, to whom it may have been dedicated, that the
chance of its being a temple of Anaitis is hardly any thing. It is
like throwing a grain of sand upon the sea-shore today, and thinking
you may find it tomorrow. No, sir, this temple, like many an ill-built
edifice, tumbles down before it is roofed in.' In his triumph over the
reverend antiquarian, he indulged himself in a conceit; for, some
vestige of the ALTAR of the goddess being much insisted on in support
of the hypothesis, he said, 'Mr M'Queen is fighting pro aris et
focis.'
It was wonderful how well time passed in a remote castle, and in
dreary weather. After supper, we talked of Pennant. It was objected
that he was superficial. Dr Johnson defended him warmly. He said,
'Pennant has greater variety of inquiry than almost any man, and has
told us more than perhaps one in ten thousand could have done, in the
time that he took. He has not said what he was to tell; so you cannot
find fault with him, for what he has not told. If a man comes to look
for fishes, you cannot blame him if he does not attend to fowls.'
'But,' said Colonel M'Leod, 'he mentions the unreasonable rise of
rents in the Highlands, and says, "the gentlemen are for emptying the
bag, without filling it"; for that is the phrase he uses. Why does he
not tell how to fill it?' JOHNSON. 'Sir, there is no end of negative
criticism. He tells what he observes, and as much as he chooses. If he
tells what is not true, you may find fault with him; but, though he
tells that the land is not well cultivated, he is not obliged to tell
how it may be well cultivated. If I tell that many of the highlanders
go bare-footed, I am not obliged to tell how they may get shoes.
Pennant tells a fact. He need go no farther, except he pleases. He
exhausts nothing; and no subject whatever has yet been exhausted. But
Pennant has surely told a great deal. Here is a man six feet high, and
you are angry because he is not seven.' Notwithstanding this eloquent
Oratio pro Pennantio, which they who have read this gentleman's TOURS,
and recollect the Savage and the Shopkeeper at Monboddo will probably
impute to the spirit of contradiction. I still think that he had
better have given more attention to fewer things, than have thrown
together such a number of imperfect accounts.
Saturday, 18th September
Before breakfast, Dr Johnson came up to my room, to forbid me to
mention that this was his birthday; but I told him I had done it
already; at which he was displeased; I suppose from wishing to have
nothing particular done on his account. Lady M'Leod and I got into a
warm dispute. She wanted to build a house upon a farm which she has
taken, about five miles from the castle, and to make gardens and other
ornaments there; all of which I approved of; but insisted that the
seat of the family should always be upon the rock of Dunvegan.
JOHNSON. 'Ay, in time we'll build all round this rock. You may make a
very good house at the farm; but it must not be such as to tempt the
Laird of M'Leod to go thither to reside. Most of the great families of
England have a secondary residence, which is called a jointure-house:
let the new house be of that kind.' The lady insisted that the rock
was very inconvenient; that there was no place near it where a good
garden could be made; that it must always be the rude place; that it
was a Herculean labour to make a dinner here. I was vexed to find the
alloy of modern refinement in a lady who had so much old family
spirit. 'Madam,' said I, 'if once you quit this rock, there is no
knowing where you may settle. You move five miles first, then to St
Andrews, as the late laird did; then to Edinburgh; and so on till you
end at Hampstead, or in France. No, no; keep to the rock: it is the
very jewel of the estate. It looks as if it had been let down from
heaven by the four corners, to be the residence of a chief. Have all
the comforts and conveniencies of life upon it, but never leave Rorie
More's cascade.' 'But,' said she, 'is it not enough if we keep it?
Must we never have more convenience than Rorie More had? He had his
beef brought to dinner in one basket, and his bread in another. Why
not as well be Rorie More all over, as live upon his rock? And should
not we tire, in looking perpetually on this rock? It is very well for
you, who have a fine place, and every thing easy, to talk thus, and
think of chaining honest folks to a rock. You would not live upon it
yourself.' 'Yes, madam,' said I, 'I would live upon it, were I Laird
of M'Leod, and should be unhappy if I were not upon it.' JOHNSON (with
a strong voice, and most determined manner). 'Madam, rather than quit
the old rock, Boswell would live in the pit; he would make his bed in
the dungeon.' I felt a degree of elation, at finding my resolute
feudal enthusiasm thus confirmed by such a sanction. The lady was
puzzled a little. She still returned to her pretty farm--rich ground,
fine garden. 'Madam,' said Dr Johnson, 'were they in Asia, I would not
leave the rock.' My opinion on this subject is still the same. An
ancient family residence ought to be a primary object; and though the
situation of Dunvegan be such that little can be done here in
gardening, or pleasure-ground, yet, in addition to the veneration
acquired by the lapse of time, it has many circumstances of natural
grandeur, suited to the seat of a Highland chief: it has the sea,
islands, rocks, hills, a noble cascade; and when the family is again
in opulence, something may be done by art.
Mr Donald M'Queen went away today, in order to preach at Bracadale
next day. We were so comfortably situated at Dunvegan, that Dr Johnson
could hardly be moved from it. I proposed to him that we should leave
it on Monday. 'No, sir,' said he, 'I will not go before Wednesday. I
will have some more of this good.' However, as the weather was at this
season so bad, and so very uncertain, and we had a great deal to do
yet, Mr M'Queen and I prevailed with him to agree to set out on
Monday, if the day should be good. Mr M'Queen though it was
inconvenient for him to be absent from his harvest, engaged to wait on
Monday at Ulinish for us. When he was going away, Dr Johnson said, 'I
shall ever retain a great regard for you'; then asked him if he had
the Rambler. Mr M'Queen said, 'No; but my brother has it' JOHNSON.
'Have you the Idler?' M'QUEEN. 'No, sir.' JOHNSON. 'Then I will order
one for you at Edinburgh, which you will keep in remembrance of me.'
Mr M'Queen was much pleased with this. He expressed to me, in the
strongest terms, his admiration of Dr Johnson's wonderful knowledge,
and every other quality for which he is distinguished. I asked Mr
M'Queen, if he was satisfied with being a minister in Sky. He said he
was; but he owned that his forefathers having been so long there, and
his having been born there, made a chief ingredient in forming his
contentment. I should have mentioned, that on our left hand, between
Portree and Dr Macleod's house, Mr M'Queen told me there had been a
college of the Knights Templars; that tradition said so; and that
there was a ruin remaining of their church, which had been burnt: but
I confess Dr Johnson has weakened my belief in remote tradition. In
the dispute about Anaitis, Mr M'Queen said, Asia Minor was peopled by
Scythians, and, as they were the ancestors of the Celts, the same
religion might be in Asia Minor and Sky. JOHNSON. 'Alas! sir, what can
a nation that has not letters tell of its original? I have always
difficulty to be patient when I hear authors gravely quoted, as giving
accounts of savage nations, which accounts they had from the savages
themselves. What can the M'Craas tell about themselves a thousand
years ago? There is no tracing the connection of ancient nations, but
by language; and therefore I am always sorry when any language is
lost, because languages are the pedigree of nations. If you find the
same language in distant countries, you may be sure that the
inhabitants of each have been the same people; that is to say, if you
find the languages a good deal the same; for a word here and there
being the same, will not do. Thus Butler, in his Hudibras, remembering
that Penguin, in the Straits of Magellan, signifies a bird with a
white head, and that the same word has, in Wales, the signification of
a white-headed wench (PEN head, and GUIN white), by way of ridicule,
concludes that the people of those Straits are Welch.'
A young gentleman of the name of M'Lean, nephew to the Laird of the
Isle of Muck, came this morning; and, just as we sat down to dinner,
came the Laird of the Isle of Muck himself, his lady, sister to
Talisker, two other ladies their relations, and a daughter of the late
M'Leod of Hamer, who wrote a treatise on the second sight, under the
designation of Theophilus Insulanus. It was somewhat droll to hear
this laird called by his title. Muck would have founded ill; so he was
called Isle of Muck, which went off with great readiness. The name, as
now written, is unseemly, but is not so bad in the original Erse,
which is MOUACH, signifying the Sows' Island. Buchanan calls it Insula
Porcorum. It is so called from its form. Some call it Isle of MONK.
The laird insists that this is the proper name. It was formerly
church-land belonging to Icolmkill, and a hermit lived in it. It is
two miles long, and about three quarters of a mile broad. The laird
said, he had seven score of souls upon it. Last year he had eighty
persons inoculated, mostly children, but some of them eighteen years
of age. He agreed with the surgeon to come and do it, at half a crown
a head. It is very fertile in corn, of which they export some; and its
coasts abound in fish. A taylor comes there six times in a year. They
get a good blacksmith from the Isle of Egg.
Sunday, 19th September
It was rather worse weather than any that we had yet. At breakfast Dr
Johnson said, 'Some cunning men choose fools for their wives, thinking
to manage them, but they always fail. There is a spaniel fool and a
mule fool. The spaniel fool may be made to do by beating. The mule
fool will neither do by words or blows; and the spaniel fool often
turns mule at last: and suppose a fool to be made do pretty well, you
must have the continual trouble of making her do. Depend upon it, no
woman is the worse for sense and knowledge.' Whether afterwards he
meant merely to say a polite thing, or to give his opinion, I could
not be sure; but he added, 'Men know that women are an over-match for
them, and therefore they choose the weakest or most ignorant. If they
did not think so, they never could be afraid of women knowing as much
as themselves.' In justice to the sex, I think it but candid to
acknowledge, that, in a subsequent conversation, he told me that he
was serious in what he had said.
He came to my room this morning before breakfast, to read my Journal,
which he has done all along. He often before said, 'I take great
delight in reading it.' Today he said, 'You improve: it grows better
and better.' I observed, there was a danger of my getting a habit of
writing in a slovenly manner. 'Sir,' said he, 'it is not written in a
slovenly manner. It might be printed, were the subject fit for
printing.' [Footnote: As I have faithfully recorded so many minute
particulars, I hope I shall be pardoned for inserting so flattering an
encomium on what is now offered to the publick.] While Mr Beaton
preached to us in the dining-room, Dr Johnson sat in his own room,
where I saw lying before him a volume of Lord Bacon's works, the Decay
of Christian Piety, Monboddo's Origin of Language, and Sterne's
Sermons. He asked me today, how it happened that we were so little
together: I told him, my Journal took up much time. Yet, on
reflection, it appeared strange to me, that although I will run from
one end of London to another, to pass an hour with him, I should omit
to seize any spare time to be in his company, when I am settled in the
same house with him. But my Journal is really a task of much time and
labour, and he forbids me to contract it.
I omitted to mention, in its place, that Dr Johnson told Mr M'Queen
that he had found the belief of the second sight universal in Sky,
except among the clergy, who seemed determined against it. I took the
liberty to observe to Mr M'Queen, that the clergy were actuated by a
kind of vanity. 'The world,' say they,'takes us to be credulous men in
a remote corner. We'll shew them that we are more enlightened than
they think.' The worthy man said, that his disbelief of it was from
his not finding sufficient evidence; but I could perceive that he was
prejudiced against it.
After dinner to-day, we talked of the extraordinary fact of Lady
Grange's being sent to St Kilda, and confined there for several years,
without any means of relief. [Footnote: The true story of this lady,
which happened In this century, is as frightfully romantick as if it
had been the fiction of a gloomy fancy. She was the wife of one of the
Lords of Session in Scotland, a man of the very first blood of his
country. For some mysterious reasons, which have never been
discovered, she was seized and carried off in the dark, she knew not
by whom, and by nightly journies was conveyed to the Highland shores,
from whence she was transported by sea to the remote rock of St Kilda,
where she remained, amongst its few wild inhabitants, a forlorn
prisoner, but had a constant supply of provisions, and a woman to wait
on her. No inquiry was made after her, till she at last found means to
convey a letter to a confidential friend, by the daughter of a
Catechist who concealed it in a clue of yarn. Information being thus
obtained at Edinburgh, a ship was sent to bring her off; but
intelligence of this being received, she was conveyed to M'Leod's
island of Herries, where she died.
In Carstares's State Papers, we find an authentick narrative of
Connor, a Catholick priest, who turned Protestant, being seized by
some of Lord Seaforth's people, and detained prisoner in the island of
Herries several years: he was fed with bread and water, and lodged in
a house where he was exposed to the rains and cold. Sir James Ogilvy
writes (June 18, 1667) that the Lord Chancellor, the Lord Advocate,
and himself, were to meet next day, to take effectual methods to have
this redressed. Connor was then still detained (p. 310). This shews
what private oppression might in the last century be practised in the
Hebrides.
In the same collection, the Earl of Argyle gives a picturesque account
of an embassy from 'the great M'Neil of Barra', as that insular chief
used to be denominated. 'I received a letter yesterday from M'Neil of
Barra, who lives very far off, sent by a gentleman in all formality,
offering his service, which had made you laugh to see his entry. His
style of his letter runs as if he were of another kingdom' (p. 643).]
Dr Johnson said, if M'Leod would let it be known that he had such a
place for naughty ladies, he might make it a very profitable island.
We had, in the course of our tour, heard of St Kilda poetry. Dr
Johnson observed, 'it must be very poor, because they have very few
images.' BOSWELL. 'There may be a poetical genius shewn in combining
these, and in making poetry of them.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, a man cannot make
fire but in proportion as he has fuel. He cannot coin guineas but in
proportion as he has gold.' At tea he talked of his intending to go to
Italy in 1775. M'Leod said, he would like Paris better. JOHNSON. 'No,
sir; there are none of the French literati now alive, to visit whom I
would cross a sea. I can find in Buffon's book all that he can
say.'[Footnote: I doubt the justice of my fellow-traveller's remark
concerning the French literati, many of whom, I am told, have
considerable merit in conversation, as well as in their writings. That
of Monsieur de Buffon, in particular, I am well assured is highly
instructive and entertaining.]
After supper he said, 'I am sorry that prize-fighting is gone out;
every art should be preserved, and the art of defence is surely
important. It is absurd that our soldiers should have swords, and not
be taught the use of them. Prize-fighting made people accustomed not
to be alarmed at seeing their own blood, or feeling a little pain from
a wound. I think the heavy glaymore was an ill-contrived weapon. A man
could only strike once with it. It employed both his hands, and he
must of course be soon fatigued with wielding it; so that if his
antagonist could only keep playing a while, he was sure of him. I
would fight with a dirk against Rorie More's sword. I could ward off a
blow with a dirk, and then run in upon my enemy. When within that
heavy sword, I have him; he is quite helpless, and I could stab him at
my leisure, like a calf. It is thought by sensible military men, that
the English do not enough avail themselves of their superior strength
of body against the French; for that must always have a great
advantage in pushing with bayonets. I have heard an officer say, that
if women could be made to stand, they would do as well as men in a
mere interchange of bullets from a distance: but, if a body of men
should come close up to them, then to be sure they must be overcome;
now (said he), in the same manner the weaker-bodied French must be
overcome by our strong soldiers.'
The subject of duelling was introduced. JOHNSON. 'There is no case in
England where one or other of the combatants MUST die: if you have
overcome your adversary by disarming him, that is sufficient, though
you should not kill him; your honour, or the honour of your family, is
restored, as much as it can be by a duel. It is cowardly to force your
antagonist to renew the combat, when you know that you have the
advantage of him by superior skill. You might just as well go and cut
his throat while he is asleep in his bed. When a duel begins, it is
supposed there may be an equality; because it is not always skill that
prevails. It depends much on presence of mind; nay on accidents. The
wind may be in a man's face. He may fall. Many such things may decide
the superiority. A man is sufficiently punished, by being called out,
and subjected to the risk that is in a duel.' But on my suggesting
that the injured person is equally subjected to risk, he fairly owned
he could not explain the rationality of duelling.
Monday, 20th September
When I awaked, the storm was higher still. It abated about nine, and
the sun shone; but it rained again very soon, and it was not a day for
travelling. At breakfast, Dr Johnson told us, 'there was once a pretty
good tavern in Catharine Street in the Strand, where very good company
met in an evening, and each man called for his own half pint of wine,
or gill, if he pleased: they were frugal men, and nobody paid but for
what he himself drank. The house furnished no supper; but a woman
attended with mutton-pies, which any body might purchase. I was
introduced to this company by Cumming the Quaker, and used to go there
sometimes when I drank wine. In the last age, when my mother lived in
London, there were two sets of people, those who gave the wall, and
those who took it; the peaceable and the quarrelsome. When I returned
to Lichfield, after having been in London, my mother asked me, whether
I was one of those who gave the wall, or those who took it. Now, it is
fixed that every man keeps to the right; or, if one is taking the
wall, another yields it, and it is never a dispute.' He was very
severe on a lady, whose name was mentioned. He said, he would have
sent her to St Kilda. That she was as bad as negative badness could
be, and stood in the way of what was good: that insipid beauty would
not go a great way; and that such a woman might be cut out of a
cabbage, if there was a skilful artificer.
M'Leod was too late in coming to breakfast. Dr Johnson said, laziness
was worse than the toothache. BOSWELL. 'I cannot agree with you, sir;
a bason of cold water, or a horse whip, will cure laziness.' JOHNSON.
'No, sir; it will only put off the fit; it will not cure the disease.
I have been trying to cure my laziness all my life, and could not do
it.' BOSWELL. 'But if a man does in a shorter time what might be the
labour of a life, there is nothing to be said against him.' JOHNSON
(perceiving at once that I alluded to him and his Dictionary).
'Suppose that flattery to be true, the consequence would be, that the
world would have no right to censure a man; but that will not justify
him to himself.'
After breakfast, he said to me, 'A Highland chief should now endeavour
to do every thing to raise his rents, by means of the industry of his
people. Formerly, it was right for him to have his house full of idle
fellows; they were his defenders, his servants, his dependants, his
friends. Now they may be better employed. The system of things is now
so much altered, that the family cannot have influence but by riches,
because it has no longer the power of ancient feudal times. An
individual of a family may have it; but it cannot now belong to a
family, unless you could have a perpetuity of men with the same views.
M'Leod has four times the land that the Duke of Bedford has. I think,
with his spirit, he may in time make himself the greatest man in the
king's dominions; for land may always be improved to a certain degree.
I would never have any man sell land, to throw money into the funds,
as is often done, or to try any other species of trade. Depend upon
it, this rage of trade will destroy itself. You and I shall not see
it; but the time will come when there will be an end of it. Trade is
like gaming. If a whole company are gamesters, play must cease; for
there is nothing to be won. When all nations are traders, there is
nothing to be gained by trade, and it will stop first where it is
brought to the greatest perfection. Then the proprietors of land only
will be the great men.' I observed, it was hard that M'Leod should
find ingratitude in so many of his people. JOHNSON. 'Sir, gratitude is
a fruit of great cultivation; you do not find it among gross people.'
I doubt of this. Nature seems to have implanted gratitude in all
living creatures. The lion, mentioned by Aulus Gellius, had it.
[Footnote: Aul. Gellius, Lib. v. c. xiv.] It appears to me that
culture, which brings luxury and selfishness with it, has a tendency
rather to weaken than promote this affection.
Dr Johnson said this morning, when talking of our setting out, that he
was in the state in which Lord Bacon represents kings. He desired the
end, but did not like the means. He wished much to get home, but was
unwilling to travel in Sky. 'You are like kings too in this, sir,'
said I, 'that you must act under the direction of others.'
Tuesday, 21st September
The uncertainty of our present situation having prevented me from
receiving any letters from home for some time, I could not help being
uneasy. Dr Johnson had an advantage over me, in this respect, he
having no wife or child to occasion anxious apprehensions in his mind.
It was a good morning; so we resolved to set out. But, before quitting
this castle, where we have been so well entertained, let me give a
short description of it.
Along the edge of the rock, there are the remains of a wall, which is
now covered with ivy. A square court is formed by buildings of
different ages, particularly some towers, said to be of great
antiquity; and at one place there is a row of false cannon of stone.
There is a very large unfinished pile, four stories high, which we
were told was here when Leod, the first of this family, came from the
Isle of Man, married the heiress of the M'Crails, the ancient
possessors of Dunvegan, and afterwards acquired by conquest as much
land as he had got by marriage. He surpassed the house of Austria; for
he was felix both bella genere et nubere. John Breck M'Leod, the
grandfather of the late laird, began to repair the castle, or rather
to complete it: but he did not live to finish his undertaking. Not
doubting, however, that he should do it, he, like those who have had
their epitaphs written before they died, ordered the following
inscription, composed by the minister of the parish, to be cut upon a
broad stone above one of the lower windows, where it still remains to
celebrate what was not done, and to serve as a memento of the
uncertainty of life, and the presumption of man:
Joannes Macleod Beganoduni Dominus gentis suae Philarchus, Durinesiae
Haraiae Vaternesiae, &c: Baro D. Florae Macdonald matrimoniali vinculo
conjugatus turrem hanc Beganodunensem proavorum habitaculum longe
vetustissimum diu penitus labefectatam Anno aerae vulgaris MDCLXXXVI
instauravit.
Quern stabilire juvat proavorum tecta vetusta,
Omne scelus fugiat, justitiamque colat.
Vertit in aerias turres magalia virtus,
Inque casas humiles tecta superba nefas.
M'Leod and Talisker accompanied us. We passed by the parish church of
Durinish. The church-yard is not enclosed, but a pretty murmuring
brook runs along one side of it. In it is a pyramid erected to the
memory of Thomas Lord Lovat, by his son Lord Simon, who suffered on
Towerhill. It is of free-stone, and, I suppose, about thirty feet
high. There is an inscription on a piece of white marble inserted in
it, which I suspect to have been the composition of Lord Lovat
himself, being much in his pompous style:
This pyramid was erected by SIMON LORD FRASER of LOVAT, in honour of
Lord THOMAS his Father, a Peer of Scotland, and Chief of the great and
ancient clan of the FRASERS. Being attacked for his birthright by the
family of ATHOLL, then in power and favour with KING WILLIAM, yet, by
the valour and fidelity of his clan, and the assistance of the
CAMPBELLS, the old friends and allies of his family, he defended his
birthright with such greatness and fermety of soul, and such valour
and activity, that he was an honour to his name, and a good pattern to
all brave Chiefs of clans. He died in the month of May, 1699, in the
63d year of his age, in Dunvegan, the house of the LAIRD of MAC LEOD,
whose sister he had married: by whom he had the above SIMON LORD
FRASER, and several other children. And, for the great love he bore to
the family of MAC LEOD, he desired to be buried near his wife's
relations, in the place where two of her uncles lay. And his son LORD
SIMON, to shew to posterity his great affection for his mother's
kindred, the brave MAC LEODS, chooses rather to leave his father's
bones with them, than carry them to his own burial-place, near Lovat.
I have preserved this inscription, though of no great value, thinking
it characteristical of a man who has made some noise in the world. Dr
Johnson said, it was poor stuff, such as Lord Lovat's butler might
have written.
I observed, in this church-yard, a parcel of people assembled at a
funeral, before the grave was dug. The coffin, with the corpse in it,
was placed on the ground, while the people alternately assisted in
making a grave. One man, at a little distance, was busy cutting a long
turf for it, with the crooked spade which is used in Sky; a very
aukward instrument. The iron part of it is like a plough-coulter. It
has a rude tree for a handle, in which a wooden pin is placed for the
foot to press upon. A traveller might, without further inquiry, have
set this down as the mode of burying in Sky. I was told, however, that
the usual way is to have a grave previously dug.
I observed to-day, that the common way of carrying home their grain
here is in loads on horse-back. They have also a few sleds, or cars,
as we call them in Ayrshire, clumsily made, and rarely used.
We got to Ulinish about six o'clock, and found a very good farm-house,
of two stories. Mr M'Leod of Ulinish, the sheriff-substitute of the
island, was a plain honest gentleman, a good deal like an English
justice of peace; not much given to talk, but sufficiently sagacious,
and somewhat droll. His daughter, though she was never out of Sky, was
a very well-bred woman. Our reverend friend, Mr Donald M'Queen, kept
his appointment, and met us here.
Talking of Phipps's voyage to the North Pole, Dr Johnson observed,
that it 'was conjectured that our former navigators have kept too near
land, and so have found the sea frozen far north, because the land
hinders the free motion of the tide; but, in the wide ocean, where the
waves tumble at their full convenience, it is imagined that the frost
does not take effect'.
Wednesday, 22d September
In the morning I walked out, and saw a ship, the Margaret of Clyde,
pass by with a number of emigrants on board. It was a melancholy
sight. After breakfast, we went to see what was called a subterraneous
house, about a mile off. It was upon the side of a rising-ground. It
was discovered by a fox's having taken up his abode in it, and in
chasing him, they dug into it. It was very narrow and low, and seemed
about forty feet in length. Near it, we found the foundations of
several small huts, built of stone. Mr M'Queen, who is always for
making every thing as ancient as possible, boasted that it was the
dwelling of some of the first inhabitants of the island, and observed,
what a curiosity it was to find here a specimen of the houses of the
Aborigines, which he believed could be found no where else; and it was
plain that they lived without fire. Dr Johnson remarked, that they who
made this were not in the rudest state; for that it was more difficult
to make it than to build a house; therefore certainly those who made
it were in possession of houses, and had this only as a hiding-place.
It appeared to me, that the vestiges of houses, just by it, confirmed
Dr Johnson's opinion.
From an old tower, near this place, is an extensive view of Loch
Braccadil, and, at a distance, of the isles of Barra and South Uist;
and on the landside, the Cuillin, a prodigious range of mountains,
capped with rocky pinnacles in a strange variety of shapes. They
resemble the mountains near Corte in Corsica, of which there is a very
good print. They make part of a great range for deer, which, though
entirely devoid of trees, is in these countries called a forest.
In the afternoon, Ulinish carried us in his boat to an island
possessed by him, where we saw an immense cave, much more deserving
the title of antrum immane than that of the Sybil described by Virgil,
which I likewise have visited. It is one hundred and eighty feet long,
about thirty feet broad, and at least thirty feet high. This cave, we
were told, had a remarkable echo; but we found none. They said it was
owing to the great rains having made it damp. Such are the excuses by
which the exaggeration of Highland narratives is palliated. There is a
plentiful garden at Ulinish (a great rarity in Sky), and several
trees; and near the house is a hill, which has an Erse name,
signifying 'the hill of strife', where, Mr M'Queen informed us,
justice was of old administered. It is like the mons placiti of Scone,
or those hills which are called laws, such as Kelly law, North Berwick
law, and several others. It is singular that this spot should happen
now to be the sheriff's residence.
We had a very cheerful evening, and Dr Johnson talked a good deal on
the subject of literature. Speaking of the noble family of Boyle, he
said, that all the Lord Orrerys, till the present, had been writers.
The first wrote several plays; the second was Bentley's antagonist;
the third wrote the Life of Swift, and several other things; his son
Hamilton wrote some papers in the Adventurer and World. He told us, he
was well acquainted with Swift's Lord Orrery. He said, he was a
feeble-minded man; that, on the publication of Dr Delany's Remarks on
his book, he was so much alarmed that he was afraid to read them. Dr
Johnson comforted him, by telling him they were both in the right;
that Delany had seen most of the good side of Swift, Lord Orrery most
of the bad. M'Leod asked, if it was not wrong in Orrery to expose the
defects of a man with whom he lived in intimacy. JOHNSON. 'Why no,
sir, after the man is dead; for then it is done historically.' He
added, 'If Lord Orrery had been rich, he would have been a very
liberal patron. His conversation was like his writings, neat and
elegant, but without strength. He grasped at more than his abilities
could reach; tried to pass for a better talker, a better writer, and a
better thinker than he was. There was a quarrel between him and his
father, in which his father was to blame; because it arose from the
son's not allowing his wife to keep company with his father's
mistress. The old lord shewed his resentment in his will--leaving his
library from his son, and assigning, as his reason, that he could not
make use of it.'
I mentioned the affectation of Orrery, in ending all his letters on
the Life of Swift in studied varieties of phrase, and never in the
common mode of 'I am', &c. an observation which I remember to have
been made several years ago by old Mr Sheridan. This species of
affectation in writing, as a foreign lady of distinguished talents
once remarked to me, is almost peculiar to the English. I took up a
volume of Dryden, containing the Conquest of Granada, and several
other plays, of which all the dedications had such studied
conclusions. Dr Johnson said, such conclusions were more elegant, and,
in addressing persons of high rank (as when Dryden dedicated to the
Duke of York), they were likewise more respectful. I agreed that THERE
it was much better: it was making his escape from the royal presence
with a genteel sudden timidity, in place of having the resolution to
stand still, and make a formal bow.
Lord Orrery's unkind treatment of his son in his will, led us to talk
of the dispositions a man should have when dying. I said, I did not
see why a man should act differently with respect to those of whom he
thought ill when in health, merely because he was dying. JOHNSON. 'I
should not scruple to speak against a party, when dying; but should
not do it against an individual. It is told of Sixtus Quintus, that on
his death-bed, in the intervals of his last pangs, he signed
death-warrants.' Mr M'Queen said, he should not do so; he would have
more tenderness of heart. JOHNSON. 'I believe I should not either; but
Mr M'Queen and I are cowards. It would not be from tenderness of
heart; for the heart is as tender when a man is in health as when he
is sick, though his resolution may be stronger. Sixtus Quintus was a
sovereign as well as a priest; and, if the criminals deserved death,
he was doing his duty to the last. You would not think a judge died
ill, who should be carried off by an apoplectick fit while pronouncing
sentence of death. Consider a class of men whose business it is to
distribute death: soldiers, who die scattering bullets. Nobody thinks
they die ill on that account.'
Talking of biography, he said, he did not think that the life of any
literary man in England had been well written. Beside the common
incidents of life, it should tell us his studies, his mode of living,
the means by which he attained to excellence, and his opinion of his
own works. He told us, he had sent Derrick to Dryden's relations, to
gather materials for his Life; and he believed Derrick had got all
that he himself should have got; but it was nothing. He added, he had
a kindness for Derrick, and was sorry he was dead.
His notion as to the poems published by Mr M'Pherson, as the works of
Ossian, was not shaken here. Mr M'Queen always evaded the point of
authenticity, saying only that Mr M'Pherson's pieces fell far short of
those he knew in Erse, which were said to be Ossian's. JOHNSON. 'I
hope they do. I am not disputing that you may have poetry of great
merit; but that M'Pherson's is not a translation from ancient poetry.
You do not believe it. I say before you, you do not believe it, though
you are very willing that the world should believe it.' Mr M'Queen
made no answer to this. Dr Johnson proceeded, 'I look upon M'Pherson's
Fingal to be as gross an imposition as ever the world was troubled
with. Had it been really an ancient work, a true specimen how men
thought at that time, it would have been a curiosity of the first
rate. As a modern production, it is nothing.' He said, he could never
get the meaning of an Erse song explained to him. They told him, the
chorus was generally unmeaning. 'I take it,' said he, 'Erse songs are
like a song which I remember: it was composed in Queen Elizabeth's
time, on the Earl of Essex; and the burthen was
"Radaratoo, radarate, radara tadara tandore."'
'But surely,' said Mr M'Queen, 'there were words to it, which had
meaning.' JOHNSON. 'Why, yes, sir, I recollect a stanza, and you shall
have it:
"O! then bespoke the prentices all,
Living in London, both proper and tall,
For Essex's sake they would fight all.
Radaratoo, radarate, radara, tadara, tandore."'
[Footnote: This droll quotation, I have since found, was from a song
in honour of the Earl of Essex, called 'Queen Elizabeth's Champion',
which is preserved in a collection of Old Ballads, in three volumes,
published in London in different years, between 1720 and 1730. The
full verse is as follows:
Oh! then bespoke the prentices all,
Living in London, both proper and tall,
In a kind letter sent straight to the Queen,
For Essex's sake they would fight all.
Raderer too, tandaro te,
Raderer, tenderer, tan do re.]
When Mr M'Queen began again to expatiate on the beauty of Ossian's
poetry, Dr Johnson entered into no further controversy, but, with a
pleasant smile, only cried, 'Ay, ay; Radaratoo, radarate.'
Thursday, 23d September
I took Fingal down to the parlour in the morning, and tried a test
proposed by Mr Roderick M'Leod, son to Ulinish. Mr M'Queen had said he
had some of the poem in the original. I desired him to mention any
passage in the printed book, of which he could repeat the original. He
pointed out one in page 50 of the quarto edition, and read the Erse,
while Mr Roderick M'Leod and I looked on the English; and Mr M'Leod
said, that it was pretty like what Mr M'Queen had recited. But when Mr
M'Queen read a description of Cuchullin's sword in Erse, together with
a translation of it in English verse, by Sir James Foulis, Mr M'Leod
said, that was much more like than Mr M'Pherson's translation of the
former passage. Mr M'Queen then repeated in Erse a description of one
of the horses in Cuchillin's car. Mr M'Leod said, Mr M'Pherson's
English was nothing like it.
When Dr Johnson came down, I told him that I had now obtained some
evidence concerning Fingal; for that Mr M'Queen had repeated a passage
in the original Erse, which Mr M'Pherson's translation was pretty
like; and reminded him that he himself had once said, he did not
require Mr M'Pherson's Ossian to be more like the original than Pope's
Homer. JOHNSON. 'Well, sir, this is just what I always maintained. He
has found names, and stories, and phrases, nay passages in old songs,
and with them has blended his own compositions, and so made what he
gives to the world as the translation of an ancient poem.' If this was
the case, I observed, it was wrong to publish it as a poem in six
books. JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; and to ascribe it to a time too when the
Highlanders knew nothing of BOOKS, and nothing of SIX; or perhaps were
got the length of counting six. We have been told, by Condamine, of a
nation that could count no more than four. This should be told to
Monboddo; it would help him. There is as much charity in helping a man
down-hill, as in helping him up-hill.' BOSWELL. 'I don't think there
is as much charity.' JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir, if his TENDENCY be downwards.
Till he is at the bottom, he flounders; get him once there, and he is
quiet. Swift tells, that Stella had a trick, which she learned from
Addison, of encouraging a man in absurdity, instead of endeavouring to
extricate him.'
Mr M'Queen's answers to the inquiries concerning Ossian were so
unsatisfactory, that I could not help observing, that, were he
examined in a court of justice, he would find himself under a
necessity of being more explicit. JOHNSON. 'Sir, he has told Blair a
little too much, which is published; and he sticks to it. He is so
much at the head of things here, that he has never been accustomed to
be closely examined; and so he goes on quite smoothly.' BOSWELL. 'He
has never had any body to work him.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir; and a man is
seldom disposed to work himself; though he ought to work himself, to
be sure.' Mr M'Queen made no reply. [Footnote: I think it but justice
to say, that I believe Dr Johnson meant to ascribe Mr M'Queen's
conduct to inaccuracy and enthusiasm, and did not mean any severe
imputation against him.]
Having talked of the strictness with which witnesses are examined in
courts of justice, Dr Johnson told us, that Garrick, though accustomed
to face multitudes, when produced as a witness in Westminster Hall,
was so disconcerted by a new mode of publick appearance, that he could
not understand what was asked. It was a cause where an actor claimed a
free benefit; that is to say, a benefit without paying the expence of
the house; but the meaning of the term was disputed. Garrick was
asked, 'Sir, have you a free benefit?' 'Yes.' 'Upon what terms have
you it?' 'Upon...the terms...of ...a FREE BENEFIT.' He was dismissed
as one from whom no information could be obtained. Dr Johnson is often
too hard on our friend Mr Garrick. When I asked him, why he did not
mention him in the Preface to his Shakspeare, he said, 'Garrick has
been liberally paid for any thing he has done for Shakspeare. If I
should praise him, I should much more praise the nation who paid him.
He has not made Shakspeare better known; [Footnote: It has been
triumphantly asked, 'Had not the plays of Shakspeare lain dormant for
many years before the appearance of Mr Garrick? Did he not exhibit the
most excellent of them frequently for thirty years together, and
render them extremely popular by his own inimitable performance?' He
undoubtedly did. But Dr Johnson's assertion has been misunderstood.
Knowing as well as the objectors what has been just stated, he must
necessarily have meant, that 'Mr Garrick did not as A CRITICK make
Shakspeare better known; he did not ILLUSTRATE any one PASSAGE in any
of his plays by acuteness of disquisition, sagacity of conjecture:'
and what had been done with any degree of excellence in THAT way was
the proper and immediate subject of his preface. I may add in support
of this explanation the following anecdote, related to me by one of
the ablest commentators on Shakspeare, who knew much of Dr Johnson:
'Now I have quitted the theatre,' cries Garrick, 'I will sit down and
read Shakspeare.' ''Tis time you should,' exclaimed Johnson, 'for I
much doubt if you ever examined one of his plays from the first scene
to the last.'] he cannot illustrate Shakspeare: So I have reasons
enough against mentioning him, were reasons necessary. There should be
reasons FOR it.' I spoke of Mrs Montague's very high praises of
Garrick. JOHNSON. 'Sir, it is fit she should say so much, and I should
say nothing. Reynolds is fond of her book, and I wonder at it; for
neither I, nor Beauclerk, nor Mrs Thrale, could get through it.'
[Footnote: No man has less inclination to controversy than I have,
particularly with a lady. But as I have claimed, and am conscious of
being entitled to, credit, for the strictest fidelity, my respect for
the publick obliges me to take notice of an insinuation which tends to
impeach it.
Mrs Piozzi (late Mrs Thrale), to her Anecdotes of Dr Johnson, added
the following postscript:
Naples, Feb. 10, 1786.
Since the foregoing went to the press, having seen a passage from Mr
Boswell's Tour to the Hebrides, in which it is said, that I could not
get through Mrs Montague's Essay on Shakspeare, I do not delay a
moment to declare, that, on the contrary, I have always commended it
myself, and heard it commended by every one else; and few things would
give me more concern than to be thought incapable of tasting, or
unwilling to testify my opinion of its excellence.
It is remarkable that this postscript is so expressed, as not to point
out the person who said that Mrs Thrale could not get through Mrs
Montague's book; and therefore I think it necessary to remind Mrs
Piozzi, that the assertion concerning her was Dr Johnson's, and not
mine. The second observation that I shall make on this postscript is,
that it does not deny the fact asserted, though I must acknowledge
from the praise it bestows on Mrs Montague's book, it may have been
designed to convey that meaning.
What Mrs Thrale's opinion is or was, or what she may or may not have
said to Dr Johnson concerning Mrs Montague's book, it is not necessary
for me to inquire. It is only incumbent on me to ascertain what Dr
Johnson said to me. I shall therefore confine myself to a very short
state of the fact.
The unfavourable opinion of Mrs Montague's book, which Dr Johnson is
here reported to have given, is known to have been that which is
uniformly expressed, as many of his friends well remember. So much for
the authenticity of the paragraph, as far as it relates to his own
sentiments. The words containing the assertion, to which Mrs Piozzi
objects, are printed from my manuscript Journal, and were taken down
at the time. The Journal was read by Dr Johnson, who pointed out some
inaccuracies, which I corrected, but did not mention any inaccuracy in
the paragraph in question: and what is still more material, and very
flattering to me, a considerable part of my Journal, containing this
paragraph, WAS READ SEVERAL YEARS AGO BY MRS THRALE HERSELF, who had
it for some time in her possession, and returned it to me, without
intimating that Dr Johnson had mistaken her sentiments.
When the first edition of my Journal was passing through the press, it
occurred to me, that a peculiar delicacy was necessary to be observed
in reporting the opinion of one literary lady concerning the
performance of another; and I had such scruples on that head, that in
the proof sheet I struck out the name of Mrs Thrale from the above
paragraph, and two or three hundred copies of my book were actually
printed and published without it; of these Sir Joshua Reynolds's copy
happened to be one. But while the sheet was working off, a friend, for
whose opinion I have great respect, suggested that I had no right to
deprive Mrs Thrale of the high honour which Dr Johnson had done her,
by stating her opinion along with that of Mr Beauclerk, as coinciding
with, and, as it were, sanctioning his own. The observation appeared
to me so weighty and conclusive, that I hastened to the printing
house, and, as a piece of justice, restored Mrs Thrale to that place
from which a too scrupulous delicacy had excluded her.
On this simple state of facts I shall make no observation whatever.]
Last night Dr Johnson gave us an account of the whole process of
tanning, and of the nature of milk, and the various operations upon
it, as making whey, &c. His variety of information is surprizing; and
it gives one much satisfaction to find such a man bestowing his
attention on the useful arts of life. Ulinish was much struck with his
knowledge; and said, 'He is a great orator, sir; it is musick to hear
this man speak.' A strange thought struck me, to try if he knew any
thing of an art, or whatever it should be called, which is no doubt
very useful in life, but which lies far out of the way of a
philosopher and poet; I mean the trade of a butcher. I enticed him
into the subject, by connecting it with the various researches into
the manners and customs of uncivilized nations, that have been made by
our late navigators into the South Seas. I began with observing, that
Mr (now Sir Joseph) Banks tells us, that the art of slaughtering
animals was not known in Otaheite, for, instead of bleeding to death
their dogs (a common food with them), they strangle them. This he told
me himself; and I supposed that their hogs were killed in the same
way. Dr Johnson said, 'This must be owing to their not having knives,
though they have sharp stones with which they can cut a carcase in
pieces tolerably.' By degrees, he shewed that he knew something even
of butchery. 'Different animals,' said he, 'are killed differently. An
ox is knocked down, and a calf stunned; but a sheep has its throat
cut, without any thing being done to stupify it. The butchers have no
view to the ease of the animals, but only to make them quiet, for
their own safety and convenience. A sheep can give them little
trouble. Hales is of opinion, that every animal should be blooded,
without having any blow given to it, because it bleeds better.'
BOSWELL. 'That would be cruel.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir; there is not much
pain, if the jugular vein be properly cut.' Pursuing the subject, he
said, the kennels of Southwark ran with blood two or three days in the
week; that he was afraid there were slaughter-houses in more streets
in London than one supposes (speaking with a kind of horrour of
butchering), and yet, he added, 'any of us would kill a cow, rather
than not have beef.' I said we COULD not. 'Yes,' said he, 'any one
may. The business of a butcher is a trade indeed, that is to say,
there is an apprenticeship served to it; but it may be learnt in a
month.'
I mentioned a club in London, at the Boar's Head in Eastcheap, the
very tavern where Falstaff and his joyous companions met; the members
of which all assume Shakspeare's characters. One is Falstaff, another
Prince Henry, another Bardolph, and so on. JOHNSON. 'Don't be of it,
sir. Now that you have a name, you must be careful to avoid many
things, not bad in themselves, but which will lessen your character.
[Footnote: I do not see why I might not have been of this club without
lessening my character. But Dr Johnson's caution against supposing
one's self concealed in London, may be very useful to prevent some
people from doing many things, not only foolish, but criminal.] This
every man who has a name must observe. A man who is not publickly
known may live in London as he pleases, without any notice being taken
of him; but it is wonderful how a person of any consequence is
watched. There was a Member of Parliament, who wanted to prepare
himself to speak on a question that was to come in the House; and he
and I were to talk it over together. He did not wish it should be
known that he talked with me; so he would not let me come to his
house, but came to mine. Some time after he had made his speech in the
house, Mrs Cholmondeley, a very airy lady, told me, "Well, you could
make nothing of him!" naming the gentleman, which was a proof that he
was watched. I had once some business to do for government, and I went
to Lord North's. Precaution was taken that it should not be known. It
was dark before I went; yet a few days after I was told, "Well, you
have been with Lord North." That the door of the Prime Minister should
be watched, is not strange; but that a Member of Parliament should be
watched, or that my door should be watched, is wonderful.'
We set out this morning on our way to Talisker, in Ulinish's boat,
having taken leave of him and his family. Mr Donald M'Queen still
favoured us with his company, for which we were much obliged to him.
As we sailed along Dr Johnson got into one of his fits of railing at
the Scots. He owned that they had been a very learned nation for a
hundred years, from about 1550 to about 1650; but that they afforded
the only instance of a people among whom the arts of civil life did
not advance in proportion with learning; that they had hardly any
trade, any money, or any elegance, before the Union; that it was
strange that, with all the advantages possessed by other nations, they
had not any of those conveniences and embellishments which are the
fruit of industry, till they came in contact with a civilized people.
'We have taught you,' said he, 'and we'll do the same in time to all
barbarous nations, to the Cherokees, and at last to the Ouran-
Outangs'; laughing with as much glee as if Monboddo had been present.
BOSWELL. 'We had wine before the Union.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir; you had
some weak stuff, the refuse of France, which would not make you
drunk.' BOSWELL. 'I assure you, sir, there was a great deal of
drunkenness.' JOHNSON. 'No, sir; there were people who died of
dropsies, which they contracted in trying to get drunk.'
I must here gleen some of his conversation at Ulinish, which I have
omitted. He repeated his remark, that a man in a ship was worse than a
man in a jail. 'The man in a jail,' said he, 'has more room, better
food, and commonly better company, and is in safety.' 'Ay; but,' said
Mr M'Queen, 'the man in the ship has the pleasing hope of getting to
shore.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, I am not talking of a man's getting to shore;
but a man while he is in a ship: and then, I say, he is worse than a
man while he is in a jail. A man in a jail MAY have the "pleasing
hope" of getting out. A man confined for only a limited time, actually
HAS it.' M'Leod mentioned his schemes for carrying on fisheries with
spirit, and that he would wish to understand the construction of
boats. I suggested that he might go to a dock-yard and work, as Peter
the Great did. JOHNSON. 'Nay, sir, he need not work. Peter the Great
had not the sense to see that the mere mechanical work may be done by
any body, and that there is the same art in constructing a vessel,
whether the boards are well or ill wrought. Sir Christopher Wren might
as well have served his time to a bricklayer, and first, indeed, to a
brick-maker.'
There is a beautiful little island in the Loch of Dunvegan, called
Isa. M'Leod said, he would give it to Dr Johnson, on condition of his
residing on it three months in the year; nay one month. Dr Johnson was
highly amused with the fancy. I have seen him please himself with
little things, even with mere ideas like the present. He talked a
great deal of this island--how he would build a house there, how he
would fortify it, how he would have cannon, how he would plant, how he
would sally out and TAKE the isle of Muck; and then he laughed with
uncommon glee, and could hardly leave off. I have seen him do so at a
small matter that struck him, and was a sport to no one else. Mr
Langton told me, that one night he did so while the company were all
grave about him: only Garrick, in his significant smart manner,
darting his eyes around, exclaimed, 'VERY jocose, to be sure!' M'Leod
encouraged the fancy of Dr Johnson's becoming owner of an island; told
him, that it was the practice in this country to name every man by his
lands; and begged leave to drink to him in that mode: 'Island Isa,
your health!' Ulinish, Talisker, Mr M'Queen, and I, all joined in our
different manners, while Dr Johnson bowed to each, with much good
humour.
We had good weather, and a fine sail this day. The shore was varied
with hills, and rocks, and corn-fields, and bushes, which are here
dignified with the name of natural wood. We landed near the house of
Ferneley, a farm possessed by another gentleman of the name of M'Leod,
who, expecting our arrival, was waiting on the shore, with a horse for
Dr Johnson. The rest of us walked. At dinner, I expressed to M'Leod
the joy which I had in seeing him on such cordial terms with his clan.
'Government,' said he, 'has deprived us of our ancient power; but it
cannot deprive us of our domestick satisfactions. I would rather drink
punch in one of their houses' (meaning the houses of his people) 'than
be enabled by their hardships, to have claret in my own.' This should
be the sentiment of every chieftain. All that he can get by raising
his rents, is more luxury in his own house. Is it not better to share
the profits of his estate, to a certain degree, with his kinsmen, and
thus have both social intercourse and patriarchal influence?
We had a very good ride, for about three miles, to Talisker, where
Colonel M'Leod introduced us to his lady. We found here Mr Donald
M'Lean, the young Laird of Col (nephew to Talisker), to whom I
delivered the letter with which I had been favoured by his uncle,
Professor M'Leod, at Aberdeen. He was a little lively young man. We
found he had been a good deal in England, studying farming, and was
resolved to improve the value of his father's lands, without
oppressing his tenants, or losing the ancient Highland fashions.
Talisker is a better place than one commonly finds in Sky. It is
situated in a rich bottom. Before it is a wide expanse of sea, on each
hand of which are immense rocks; and, at some distance in the sea,
there are three columnal rocks rising to sharp points. The billows
break with prodigious force and noise on the coast of Talisker. There
are here a good many well-grown trees. Talisker is an extensive farm.
The possessor of it has, for several generations, been the next heir
to M'Leod, as there has been but one son always in that family. The
court before the house is most injudiciously paved with the round
blueish-grey pebbles which are found upon the sea-shore; so that you
walk as if upon cannon-balls driven into the ground.
After supper, I talked of the assiduity of the Scottish clergy, in
visiting and privately instructing their parishioners, and observed
how much in this they excelled the English clergy. Dr Johnson would
not let this pass. He tried to turn it off, by saying, 'There are
different ways of instructing. Our clergy pray and preach.' M'Leod and
I pressed the subject, upon which he grew warm, and broke forth: 'I do
not believe your people are better instructed. If they are, it is the
blind leading the blind; for your clergy are not instructed
themselves.' Thinking he had gone a little too far, he checked
himself, and added, 'When I talk of the ignorance of your clergy, I
talk of them as a body: I do not mean that there are not individuals
who are learned' (looking at Mr M'Queen). 'I suppose there are such
among the clergy in Muscovy. The clergy of England have produced the
most valuable books in support of religion, both in theory and
practice. What have your clergy done, since you sunk into
presbyterianism? Can you name one book of any value, on a religious
subject, written by them?' We were silent. 'I'll help you. Forbes
wrote very well; but I believe he wrote before episcopacy was quite
extinguished.' And then pausing a little, he said, 'Yes, you have
Wishart against Repentance.' [Footnote: This was a dexterous mode of
description, for the purpose of his argument; for what he alluded to
was, a sermon published by the learned Dr William Wishart, formerly
principal of the college at Edinburgh, to warn men AGAINST confiding
in a death-bed REPENTANCE, of the inefficacy of which he entertained
notions very different from those of Dr Johnson.] BOSWELL. 'But, sir,
we are not contending for the superior learning of our clergy, but for
their superior assiduity.' He bore us down again, with thundering
against their ignorance, and said to me, 'I see you have not been well
taught; for you have not charity.' He had been in some measure forced
into this warmth, by the exulting air which I assumed; for, when he
began, he said, 'Since you will drive the nail!' He again thought of
good Mr M'Queen, and, taking him by the hand, said, 'Sir, I did not
mean any disrespect to you.'
Here I must observe, that he conquered by deserting his ground, and
not meeting the argument as I had put it. The assiduity of the
Scottish clergy is certainly greater than that of the English. His
taking up the topick of their not having so much learning, was, though
ingenious, yet a fallacy in logick. It was as if there should be a
dispute whether a man's hair is well dressed, and Dr Johnson should
say, 'Sir, his hair cannot be well dressed; for he has a dirty shirt.
No man who has not clean linen has his hair well dressed.' When some
days afterwards he read this passage, he said, 'No, sir; I did not say
that a man's hair could not be well dressed because he has not clean
linen, but because he is bald.'
He used one argument against the Scottish clergy being learned, which
I doubt was not good. 'As we believe a man dead till we know that he
is alive; so we believe men ignorant till we know that they are
learned.' Now our maxim in law is, to presume a man alive, till we
know he is dead. However, indeed, it may be answered, that we must
first know he has lived; and that we have never known the learning of
the Scottish clergy. Mr M'Queen, though he was of opinion that Dr
Johnson had deserted the point really in dispute, was much pleased
with what he said, and owned to me, he thought it very just; and Mrs
M'Leod was so much captivated by his eloquence, that she told me 'I
was a good advocate for a bad cause.'
Friday, 24th September
This was a good day. Dr Johnson told us, at breakfast, that he rode
harder at a fox chase than any body. 'The English,' said he, 'are the
only nation who ride hard a-hunting. A Frenchman goes out upon a
managed horse, and capers in the field, and no more thinks of leaping
a hedge than of mounting a breach. Lord Powerscourt laid a wager, in
France, that he would ride a great many miles in a certain short time.
The French academicians set to work, and calculated that, from the
resistance of the air, it was impossible. His lordship however
performed it.'
Our money being nearly exhausted, we sent a bill for thirty pounds,
drawn on Sir William Forbes and Co. to Lochbraccadale, but our
messenger found it very difficult to procure cash for it; at length,
however, he got us value from the master of a vessel which was to
carry away some emigrants. There is a great scarcity of specie in Sky.
Mr M'Queen said he had the utmost difficulty to pay his servants'
wages, or to pay for any little thing which he has to buy. The rents
are paid in bills, which the drovers give. The people consume a vast
deal of snuff and tobacco, for which they must pay ready money; and
pedlers, who come about selling goods, as there is not a shop in the
island, carry away the cash. If there were encouragement given to
fisheries and manufacturers, there might be a circulation of money
introduced. I got one-and-twenty shillings in silver at Portree, which
was thought a wonderful store.
Talisker, Mr M'Queen, and I, walked out, and looked at no less than
fifteen different waterfalls near the house, in the space of about a
quarter of a mile. We also saw Cuchullin's well, said to have been the
favourite spring of that ancient hero. I drank of it. The water is
admirable. On the shore are many stones full of crystallizations in
the heart.
Though our obliging friend, Mr M'Lean, was but the young laird, he had
the title of Col constantly given him. After dinner he and I walked to
the top of Prieshwell, a very high rocky hill, from whence there is a
view of Barra, the Long Island, Bernera, the Loch of Dunvegan, part of
Rum, part of Rasay, and a vast deal of the isle of Sky. Col, though he
had come into Sky with an intention to be at Dunvegan, and pass a
considerable time in the island, most politely resolved first to
conduct us to Mull, and then to return to Sky. This was a very
fortunate circumstance; for he planned an expedition for us of more
variety than merely going to Mull. He proposed we should flee the
islands of Egg, Muck, Col, and Tyr-yi. In all these islands he could
shew us every thing worth seeing; and in Mull he said he should be as
if at home, his father having lands there, and he a farm.
Dr Johnson did not talk much to-day, but seemed intent in listening to
the schemes of future excursion, planned by Col. Dr Birch, however,
being mentioned, he said, he had more anecdotes than any man. I said,
Percy had a great many; that he flowed with them like one of the
brooks here. JOHNSON. 'If Percy is like one of the brooks here. Birch
was like the river Thames. Birch excelled Percy in that, as much as
Percy excels Goldsmith.' I mentioned Lord Hailes as a man of anecdote.
He was not pleased with him, for publishing only such memorials and
letters as were unfavourable for the Stuart family. 'If,' said he, 'a
man fairly warns you, "I am to give all the ill; do you find the
good", he may: but if the object which he professes be to give a view
of a reign, let him tell all the truth. I would tell truth of the two
Georges, or of that scoundrel, King William. Granger's Biographical
History is full of curious anecdote, but might have been better done.
The dog is a Whig. I do not like much to see a Whig in any dress; but
I hate to see a Whig in a parson's gown.'
Saturday, 25th September
It was resolved that we should set out, in order to return to Slate,
to be in readiness to take boat whenever there should be a fair wind.
Dr Johnson remained in his chamber writing a letter, and it was long
before we could get him into motion. He did not come to breakfast, but
had it sent to him. When he had finished his letter, it was twelve
o'clock, and we should have set out at ten. When I went up to him, he
said to me, 'Do you remember a song which begins,
"Every island is a prison
Strongly guarded by the sea;
Kings and princes, for that reason,
Prisoners are, as well as we."'
I suppose he had been thinking of our confined situation. He would
fain have gone in a boat from hence, instead of riding back to Slate.
A scheme for it was proposed. He said, 'We'll not be driven tamely
from it': but it proved impracticable.
We took leave of M'Leod and Talisker, from whom we parted with regret.
Talisker, having been bred to physick, had a tincture of scholarship
in his conversation, which pleased Dr Johnson, and he had some very
good books; and being a colonel in the Dutch service, he and his lady,
in consequence of having lived abroad, had introduced the ease and
politeness of the continent into this rude region.
Young Col was now our leader. Mr M'Queen was to accompany us half a
day more. We stopped at a little hut, where we saw an old woman
grinding with the quern, the ancient Highland instrument, which it is
said was used by the Romans, but which, being very slow in its
operation, is almost entirely gone into disuse.
The walls of the cottages in Sky, instead of being one compacted mass
of stones, are often formed by two exterior surfaces of stone, filled
up with earth in the middle, which makes them very warm. The roof is
generally bad. They are thatched, sometimes with straw, sometimes with
heath, sometimes with fern. The thatch is secured by ropes of straw,
or of heath; and, to fix the ropes, there is a stone tied to the end
of each. These stones hang round the bottom of the roof, and make it
look like a lady's hair in papers; but I should think that, when there
is wind, they would come down, and knock people on the head.
We dined at the inn at Sconser, where I had the pleasure to find a
letter from my wife. Here we parted from our learned companion, Mr
Donald M'Queen. Dr Johnson took leave of him very affectionately,
saying, 'Dear sir, do not forget me!' We settled, that he should write
an account of the Isle of Sky, which Dr Johnson promised to revise. He
said, Mr M'Queen should tell all that he could; distinguishing what he
himself knew, what was traditional, and what conjectural.
We sent our horses round a point of land, that we might shun some very
bad road; and resolved to go forward by sea. It was seven o'clock when
we got into our boat. We had many showers, and it soon grew pretty
dark. Dr Johnson sat silent and patient. Once he said, as he looked on
the black coast of Sky--black, as being composed of rocks seen in the
dusk--'This is very solemn.' Our boatmen were rude singers, and seemed
so like wild Indians, that a very little imagination was necessary to
give one an impression of being upon an American river. We landed at
Strolimus, from whence we got a guide to walk before us, for two
miles, to Corrichatachin. Not being able to procure a horse for our
baggage, I took one portmanteau before me, and Joseph another. We had
but a single star to light us on our way. It was about eleven when we
arrived. We were most hospitably received by the master and mistress,
who were just going to bed, but, with unaffected ready kindness, made
a good fire, and at twelve o'clock at night had supper on the table.
James Macdonald, of Knockow, Kingsburgh's brother, whom we had seen at
Kingsburgh, was there. He shewed me a bond granted by the late Sir
James Macdonald, to old Kingsburgh, the preamble of which does so much
honour to the feelings of that much-lamented gentleman, that I thought
it worth transcribing. It was as follows:--
I, Sir James Macdonald, of Macdonald, Baronet, now, after arriving at
my perfect age, from the friendship I bear to Alexander Macdonald of
Kingsburgh, and in return for the long and faithful services done and
performed by him to my deceased father, and to myself during my
minority, when he was one of my Tutors and Curators; being resolved,
now that the said Alexander Macdonald is advanced in years, to
contribute my endeavours for making his old age placid and
comfortable, therefore he grants him an annuity of fifty pounds
sterling.
Dr Johnson went to bed soon. When one bowl of punch was finished, I
rose, and was near the door, in my way up stairs to bed; but
Corrichatachin said, it was the first time Col had been in his house,
and he should have his bowl; and would not I join in drinking it? The
heartiness of my honest landlord, and the desire of doing social
honour to our very obliging conductor, induced me to sit down again.
Col's bowl was finished; and by that time we were well warmed. A third
bowl was soon made, and that too was finished. We were cordial, and
merry to a high degree; but of what passed I have no recollection,
with any accuracy. I remember calling Corrichatachin by the familiar
appellation of Corri, which his friends do. A fourth bowl was made, by
which time Col, and young M'Kinnon, Corrichatachin's son, slipped away
to bed. I continued a little with Corri and Knockow; but at last I
left them. It was near five in the morning when I got to bed.
Sunday, 26th September
I awaked at noon, with a severe head-ach. I was much vexed that I
should have been guilty of such a riot, and afraid of a reproof from
Dr Johnson. I thought it very inconsistent with that conduct which I
ought to maintain, while the companion of the Rambler. About one he
came into my room, and accosted me, 'What, drunk yet?' His tone of
voice was not that of severe upbraiding; so I was relieved a little.
'Sir,' said I, 'they kept me up.' He answered, 'No, you kept them up,
you drunken dog.' This he said with good-humoured English pleasantry.
Soon afterwards, Corrichatachin, Col, and other friends assembled
round my bed. Corri had a brandy-bottle and glass with him, and
insisted I should take a dram. 'Ay,' said Dr Johnson, 'fill him drunk
again. Do it in the morning, that we may laugh at him all day. It is a
poor thing for a fellow to get drunk at night, and sculk to bed, and
let his friends have no sport.' Finding him thus jocular, I became
quite easy; and when I offered to get up, he very good-naturedly said,
'You need be in no such hurry now.' [Footnote: My ingenuously relating
this occasional instance of intemperance has I find been made the
subject both of serious criticism and ludicrous banter. With the
banterers I shall not trouble myself, but I wonder that those who
pretend to the appellation of serious criticks should not have had
sagacity enough to perceive that here, as in every other part of the
present work, my principal object was to delineate Dr Johnson's
manners and character. In justice to him I would not omit an anecdote,
which, though in some degree to my own disadvantage, exhibits in so
strong a light the indulgence and good humour with which he could
treat those excesses in his friends, of which he highly disapproved.
In some other instances, the criticks have been equally wrong as to
the true motive of my recording particulars, the objections to which I
saw as clearly as they. But it would be an endless talk for an authour
to point out upon every occasion the precise object he has in view.
Contenting himself with the approbation of readers of discernment and
taste, he ought not to complain that some are found who cannot or will
not understand him.] I took my host's advice, and drank some brandy,
which I found an effectual cure for my head-ach. When I rose, I went
into Dr Johnson's room, and taking up Mrs M'Kinnon's prayer-book, I
opened it at the twentieth Sunday after Trinity, in the epistle for
which I read, 'And be not drunk with wine, wherein there is excess.'
Some would have taken this as a divine interposition.
Mrs M'Kinnon told us at dinner, that old Kingsburgh, her father, was
examined at Mugstot, by General Campbell, as to the particulars of the
dress of the person who had come to his house in woman's clothes,
along with Miss Flora M'Donald; as the General had received
intelligence of that disguise. The particulars were taken down in
writing, that it might be seen how far they agreed with the dress of
the 'Irish girl' who went with Miss Flora from the Long Island.
Kingsburgh, she said, had but one song, which he always sung when he
was merry over a glass. She dictated the words to me, which are
foolish enough:
Green sleeves and pudding pies,
Tell me where my mistress lies,
And I'll be with her before the rise,
Fiddle and aw' together.
May our affairs abroad succeed,
And may our king come home with speed,
And all pretenders shake for dread,
And let HIS health go round.
To all our injured friends in need,
This side and beyond the Tweed!
Let all pretenders shake for dread,
And let HIS health go round.
Green sleeves, &c.
While the examination was going on, the present Talisker, who was
there as one of M'Leod's militia, could not resist the pleasantry of
asking Kingsburgh, in allusion to his only song, 'Had she GREEN
SLEEVES?' Kingsburgh gave him no answer. Lady Margaret M'Donald was
very angry at Talisker for joking on such a serious occasion, as
Kingsburgh was really in danger of his life. Mrs M'Kinnon added that
Lady Margaret was quite adored in Sky. That when she travelled through
the island, the people ran in crowds before her, and took the stones
off the road, lest her horse should stumble and she be hurt. Her
husband, Sir Alexander, is also remembered with great regard. We were
told that every week a hogshead of claret was drunk at his table.
This was another day of wind and rain; but good cheer and good society
helped to beguile the time. I felt myself comfortable enough in the
afternoon. I then thought that my last night's riot was no more than
such a social excess as may happen without much moral blame; and
recollected that some physicians maintained, that a fever produced by
it was, upon the whole, good for health: so different are our
reflections on the same subject, at different periods; and such the
excuses with which we palliate what we know to be wrong.
Monday, 27th September
Mr Donald M'Leod, our original guide, who had parted from us at
Dunvegan, joined us again to-day. The weather was still so bad that we
could not travel. I found a closet here, with a good many books,
beside those that were lying about. Dr Johnson told me, he found a
library in his room at Talisker; and observed, that it was one of the
remarkable things of Sky, that there were so many books in it.
Though we had here great abundance of provisions, it is remarkable
that Corrichatachin has literally no garden: not even a turnip, a
carrot or a cabbage. After dinner, we talked of the crooked spade used
in Sky, already described, and they maintained that it was better than
the usual garden-spade, and that there was an art in tossing it, by
which those who were accustomed to it could work very easily with it.
'Nay,' said Dr Johnson, 'it may be useful in land where there are many
stones to raise; but it certainly is not a good instrument for digging
good land. A man may toss it, to be sure; but he will toss a light
spade much better: its weight makes it an incumbrance. A man MAY dig
any land with it; but he has no occasion for such a weight in digging
good land. You may take a field-piece to shoot sparrows; but all the
sparrows you can bring home will not be worth the charge.' He was
quite social and easy amongst them; and, though he drank no fermented
liquor, toasted Highland beauties with great readiness. His
conviviality engaged them so much, that they seemed eager to shew
their attention to him, and vied with each other in crying out, with a
strong Celtick pronunciation, 'Toctor Shonson, Toctor Shonson, your
health!'
This evening one of our married ladies, a lively pretty little woman,
good-humouredly sat down upon Dr Johnson's knee, and, being encouraged
by some of the company, put her hands round his neck, and kissed him.
'Do it again,' said he, 'and let us see who will tire first.' He kept
her on his knee some time, while he and she drank tea. He was now like
a BUCK indeed. All the company were much entertained to find him so
easy and pleasant. To me it was highly comick, to see the grave
philosopher--the Rambler--toying with a Highland beauty! But what
could he do? He must have been surly, and weak too, had he not behaved
as he did. He would have been laughed at, and not more respected,
though less loved.
He read to-night, to himself, as he sat in company, a great deal of my
Journal, and said to me, 'The more I read of this, I think the more
highly of you.' The gentlemen sat a long time at their punch, after he
and I had retired to our chambers. The manner in which they were
attended struck me as singular: the bell being broken, a smart lad lay
on a table in the corner of the room, ready to spring up and bring the
kettle, whenever it was wanted. They continued drinking, and singing
Erse songs, till near five in the morning, when they all came into my
room, where some of them had beds. Unluckily for me, they found a
bottle of punch in a corner, which they drank; and Corrichatachin went
for another, which they also drank. They made many apologies for
disturbing me. I told them, that, having been kept awake by their
mirth, I had once thoughts of getting up, and joining them again.
Honest Corrichatachin said, 'To have had you done so, I would have
given a cow.'
Tuesday, 28th September
The weather was worse than yesterday. I felt as if imprisoned. Dr
Johnson said, it was irksome to be detained thus: yet he seemed to
have less uneasiness, or more patience, than I had. What made our
situation worse here was, that we had no rooms that we could command;
for the good people had no notion that a man could have any occasion
but for a mere sleeping-place; so, during the day, the bed-chambers
were common to all the house. Servants eat in Dr Johnson's; and mine
was a kind of general rendezvous of all under the roof, children and
dogs not excepted. As the gentlemen occupied the parlour, the ladies
had no place to sit in, during the day, but Dr Johnson's room. I had
always some quiet time for writing in it, before he was up; and, by
degrees, I accustomed the ladies to let me sit in it after breakfast,
at my Journal, without minding me.
Dr Johnson was this morning for going to see as many islands as we
could; not recollecting the uncertainty of the season, which might
detain us in one place for many weeks. He said to me, 'I have more the
spirit of adventure than you.' For my part, I was anxious to get to
Mull, from whence we might almost any day reach the main land.
Dr Johnson mentioned, that the few ancient Irish gentlemen yet
remaining have the highest pride of family; that Mr Sandford, a friend
of his, whose mother was Irish, told him, that O'Hara (who was true
Irish, both by father and mother) and he, and Mr Ponsonby, son to the
Earl of Besborough, the greatest man of the three, but of an English
family, went to see one of those ancient Irish, and that he
distinguished them thus: 'O'Hara, you are welcome! Mr Sandford, your
mother's son, is welcome! Mr Ponsonby, you may sit down.'
He talked both of threshing and thatching. He said, it was very
difficult to determine how to agree with a thresher. 'If you pay him
by the day's wages, he will thresh no more than he pleases; though, to
be sure, the negligence of a thresher is more easily detected than
that of most labourers, because he must always make a sound while he
works. If you pay him by the piece, by the quantity of grain which he
produces, he will thresh only while the grain comes freely, and,
though he leaves a good deal in the ear, it is not worth while to
thresh the straw over again; nor can you fix him to do it
sufficiently, because it is so difficult to prove how much less a man
threshes than he ought to do. Here then is a dilemma: but, for my
part, I would engage him by the day; I would rather trust his idleness
than his fraud.' He said, a roof thatched with Lincolnshire reeds
would last seventy years, as he was informed when in that county; and
that he told this in London to a great thatcher, who said, he believed
it might be true. Such are the pains that Dr Johnson takes to get the
best information on every subject.
He proceeded: 'It is difficult for a farmer in England to find day-
labourers, because the lowest manufacturers can always get more than a
day-labourer. It is of no consequence how high the wages of
manufacturers are; but it would be of very bad consequence to raise
the wages of those who procure the immediate necessaries of life, for
that would raise the price of provisions. Here then is a problem for
politicians. It is not reasonable that the most useful body of men
should be the worst paid; yet it does not appear how it can be ordered
otherwise. It were to be wished, that a mode for its being otherwise
were found out. In the mean time, it is better to give temporary
assistance by charitable contributions to poor labourers, at times
when provisions are high, than to raise their wages; because, if wages
are once raised, they will never get down again.'
Happily the weather cleared up between one and two o'clock, and we got
ready to depart; but our kind host and hostess would not let us go
without taking a 'snatch', as they called it; which was in truth a very
good dinner. While the punch went round, Dr Johnson kept a close
whispering conference with Mrs M'Kinnon, which, however, was loud enough
to let us hear that the subject of it was the particulars of Prince
Charles's escape. The company were entertained and pleased to observe
it. Upon that subject, there was something congenial between the soul of
Dr Samuel Johnson, and that of an isle of Sky farmer's wife. It is
curious to see people, how far soever removed from each other in the
general system of their lives, come close together on a particular point
which is common to each. We were merry with Corrichatachin, on Dr
Johnson's whispering with his wife. She, perceiving this, humorously
cried, 'I am in love with him. What is it to live and not to love?' Upon
her saying something, which I did not hear, or cannot recollect, he
seized her hand eagerly, and kissed it.
As we were going, the Scottish phrase of 'honest man!' which is an
expression of kindness and regard, was again and again applied by the
company to Dr Johnson. I was also treated with much civility; and I
must take some merit from my assiduous attention to him, and from my
contriving that he shall be easy wherever he goes, that he shall not
be asked twice to eat or drink any thing (which always disgusts him),
that he shall be provided with water at his meals, and many such
little things, which, if not attended to would fret him. I also may be
allowed to claim some merit in leading the conversation: I do not mean
leading, as in an orchestra, by playing the first fiddle; but leading
as one does in examining a witness--starting topics, and making him
pursue them. He appears to me like a great mill, into which a subject
is thrown to be ground. It requires, indeed, fertile minds to furnish
materials for this mill. I regret whenever I see it unemployed; but
sometimes I feel myself quite barren, and having nothing to throw in.
I know not if this mill be a good figure; though Pope makes his mind a
mill for turning verses.
We set out about four. Young Corrichatachin went with us. We had a
fine evening, and arrived in good time at Ostig, the residence of Mr
Martin M'Pherson, minister of Slate. It is a pretty good house, built
by his father, upon a farm near the church. We were received here with
much kindness by Mr and Mrs M'Pherson, and his sister, Miss M'Pherson,
who pleased Dr Johnson much, by singing Erse songs, and playing on the
guittar. He afterwards sent her a present of his Rasselas. In his
bed-chamber was a press stored with books, Greek, Latin, French, and
English, most of which had belonged to the father of our host, the
learned Dr M'Pherson; who, though his Dissertations have been
mentioned in a former page as unsatisfactory, was a man of
distinguished talents. Dr Johnson looked at a Latin paraphrase of the
song of Moses, written by him, and published in the Scots Magazine for
1747, and said, 'It does him honour; he has a great deal of Latin, and
good Latin.' Dr M'Pherson published also in the same magazine, June
1739, an original Latin ode, which he wrote from the Isle of Barra,
where he was minister for some years. It is very poetical, and
exhibits a striking proof how much all things depend upon comparison:
for Barra, it seems, appeared to him so much worse than Sky, his
natale solum, that he languished for its 'blessed mountains', and
thought himself buried alive amongst barbarians where he was. My
readers will probably not be displeased to have a specimen of this
ode:
Hei mihi! quantos patior dolores,
Dum procul specto juga ter beata;
Dum ferae Barrae steriles arenas
Solus oberro.
Ingemo, indignor, crucior, quod inter
Barbaros Thulen lateam colentes;
Torpeo languens, morior sepultus,
Carcere coeco.
After wishing for wings to fly over to his dear country, which was in
his view, from what he calls 'Thule', as being the most western isle
of Scotland, except St Kilda; after describing the pleasures of
society, and the miseries of solitude, he at last, with becoming
propriety, has recourse to the only sure relief of thinking
men--Sursum corda, the hope of a better world--and disposes his mind
to resignation:
Interim fiat, tua, rex, voluntas:
Erigor sursum quoties subit spes
Certa migrandi Solymam supernam,
Numinis aulam.
He concludes in a noble strain of orthodox piety:
Vita tum demum vocitanda vita est.
Tum licet gratos socios habere,
Seraphim et sanctos Triadem verendam
Concelebrantes.
Wednesday, 29th September
After a very good sleep, I rose more refreshed than I had been for
some nights. We were now at but a little distance from the shore, and
saw the sea from our windows, which made our voyage seem nearer. Mr
M'Pherson's manners and address pleased us much. He appeared to be a
man of such intelligence and taste as to be sensible of the
extraordinary powers of his illustrious guest. He said to me, 'Dr
Johnson is an honour to mankind; and, if the expression may be used,
is an honour to religion.'
Col, who had gone yesterday to pay a visit at Camuscross, joined us
this morning at breakfast. Some other gentlemen also came to enjoy the
entertainment of Dr Johnson's conversation. The day was windy and
rainy, so that we had just seized a happy interval for our journey
last night. We had good entertainment here, better accommodation than
at Corrichatachin, and time enough to ourselves. The hours slipped
along imperceptibly. We talked of Shenstone. Dr Johnson said, he was a
good layer-out of land, but would not allow him to approach excellence
as a poet. He said, he believed he had tried to read all his Love
Pastorals, but did not get through them. I repeated the stanza,
'"She gazed as I slowly withdrew;
My path I could hardly discern;
So sweetly she bade me adieu,
I thought that she bade me return."'
He said, 'That seems to be pretty.' I observed that Shenstone, from
his short maxims in prose, appeared to have some power of thinking;
but Dr Johnson would not allow him that merit. He agreed, however,
with Shenstone, that it was wrong in the brother of one of his
correspondents to burn his letters; 'for,' said he, 'Shenstone was a
man whose correspondence was an honour.' He was this afternoon full of
critical severity, and dealt about his censures on all sides. He said,
Hammond's Love Elegies were poor things. He spoke contemptuously of
our lively and elegant, though too licentious, lyrick bard, Hanbury
Williams, and said, 'he had no fame, but from boys who drank with
him'.
While he was in this mood, I was unfortunate enough, simply perhaps,
but, I could not help thinking, undeservedly, to come within 'the
whiff and wind of his fell sword'. I asked him, if he had ever been
accustomed to wear a night-cap. He said 'No.' I asked, if it was best
not to wear one. JOHNSON. 'Sir, I had this custom by chance, and
perhaps no man shall ever know whether it is best to sleep with or
without a night-cap.' Soon afterwards he was laughing at some
deficiency in the Highlands, and said, 'One might as well go without
shoes and stockings.' Thinking to have a little hit at his own
deficiency, I ventured to add, 'or without a night-cap, sir'. But I
had better have been silent; for he retorted directly, 'I do not see
the connection there' (laughing). 'Nobody before was ever foolish
enough to ask whether it was best to wear a night-cap or not. This
comes of being a little wrong-headed.' He carried the company along
with him: and yet the truth is, that if he had always worn a
night-cap, as is the common practice, and found the Highlanders did
not wear one, he would have wondered at their barbarity; so that my
hit was fair enough.
Thursday, 30th September
There was as great a storm of wind and rain as I have almost ever
seen, which necessarily confined us to the house; but we were fully
compensated by Dr Johnson's conversation. He said, he did not grudge
Burke's being the first man in the House of Commons, for he was the
first man every where; but he grudged that a fellow who makes no
figure in company, and has a mind as narrow as the neck of a vinegar
cruet, should make a figure in the House of Commons, merely by having
the knowledge of a few forms, and being furnished with a little
occasional information. [Footnote: He did not mention the name of any
particular person; but those who are conversant with the political
world will probably recollect more persons than one to whom this
observation may be applied.] He told us, the first time he saw Dr
Young was at the house of Mr Richardson, the author of Clarissa. He
was sent for, that the doctor might read to him his Conjectures on
Original Composition, which he did, and Dr Johnson made his remarks;
and he was surprised to find Young receive as novelties, what he
thought very common maxims. He said, he believed Young was not a great
scholar, nor had studied regularly the art of writing; that there were
very fine things in his Night Thoughts, though you could not find
twenty lines together without some extravagance. He repeated two
passages from his Love of Fame--the characters of Brunetta and Stella,
which he praised highly. He said Young pressed him much to come to
Wellwyn. He always intended it, but never went. He was sorry when
Young died. The cause of quarrel between Young and his son, he told
us, was, that his son insisted Young should turn away a clergyman's
widow, who lived with him, and who, having acquired great influence
over the father, was saucy to the son. Dr Johnson said, she could not
conceal her resentment at him, for saying to Young, that 'an old man
should not resign himself to the management of any body.' I asked him,
if there was any improper connection between them. 'No, sir, no more
than between two statues. He was past fourscore, and she a very coarse
woman. She read to him, and, I suppose, made his coffee, and frothed
his chocolate, and did such things as an old man wishes to have done
for him.'
Dr Dodridge being mentioned, he observed that 'he was author of one of
the finest epigrams in the English language. It is in Orton's Life of
him. The subject is his family-motto, Dum vivimus, vivamus; which, in
its primary signification, is, to be sure, not very suitable to a
Christian divine; but he paraphrased it thus:
"Live, while you live, the EPICURE would say,
And seize the pleasures of the present day.
Live, while you live, the sacred PREACHER cries,
And give to God each moment as it flies.
Lord, in my views let both united be;
I live in PLEASURE, when I live to THEE."'
I asked if it was not strange that government should permit so many
infidel writings to pass without censure. JOHNSON. 'Sir, it is mighty
foolish. It is for want of knowing their own power. The present family
on the throne came to the crown against the will of nine tenths of the
people. Whether those nine tenths were right or wrong, it is not our
business now to inquire. But such being the situation of the royal
family, they were glad to encourage all who would be their friends.
Now you know every bad man is a Whig; every man who has loose notions.
The Church was all against this family. They were, as I say, glad to
encourage any friends; and therefore, since their accession, there is
no instance of any man being kept back on account of his bad
principles; and hence this inundation of impiety.' I observed that Mr
Hume, some of whose writings were very unfavourable to religion, was,
however, a Tory. JOHNSON. 'Sir, Hume is a Tory by chance, as being a
Scotchman; but not upon a principle of duty; for he has no principle.
If he is any thing, he is a Hobbist.'
There was something not quite serene in his humour to night, after
supper; for he spoke of hastening away to London, without stopping
much at Edinburgh. I reminded him, that he had General Oughton and
many others to see. JOHNSON. 'Nay, I shall neither go in jest, nor
stay in jest. I shall do what is fit.' BOSWELL. 'Ay, sir, but all I
desire is, that you will let me tell you when it is fit.' JOHNSON.
'Sir, I shall not consult you.' BOSWELL. 'If you are to run away from
us, as soon as you get loose, we will keep you confined in an island.'
He was, however, on the whole, very good company. Mr Donald M'Leod
expressed very well the gradual impression made by Dr Johnson on those
who are so fortunate as to obtain his acquaintance. 'When you see him
first, you are struck with awful reverence; then you admire him; and
then you love him cordially.'
I read this evening some part of Voltaire's History of the War in
1741, and of Lord Kames against Hereditary Indefeasible Right. This is
a very slight circumstance, with which I should not trouble my reader,
but for the sake of observing, that every man should keep minutes of
whatever he reads. Every circumstance of his studies should be
recorded; what books he has consulted; how much of them he has read;
at what times; how often the same authors; and what opinions he formed
of them, at different periods of his life. Such an account would much
illustrate the history of his mind.
Friday, 1st October
I shewed to Dr Johnson verses in a magazine, on his Dictionary,
composed of uncommon words taken from it:
Little of Anthropopathy has he, &c."
He read a few of them, and said, 'I am not answerable for all the
words in my Dictionary.' I told him, that Garrick kept a book of all
who had either praised or abused him. On the subject of his own
reputation, he said, 'Now that I see it has been so current a topick,
I wish I had done so too; but it could not well be done now, as so
many things are scattered in newspapers.' He said he was angry at a
boy of Oxford, who wrote in his defence against Kenrick; because it
was doing him hurt to answer Kenrick. He was told afterwards, the boy
was to come to him to ask a favour. He first thought to treat him
rudely, on account of his meddling in that business; but then he
considered, he had meant to do him all the service in his power, and
he took another resolution; he told him he would do what he could for
him, and did so, and the boy was satisfied. He said, he did not know
how his pamphlet was done, as he had read very little of it. The boy
made a good figure at Oxford, but died. He remarked, that attacks on
authors did them much service. 'A man who tells me my play is very
bad, is less my enemy than he who lets it die in silence. A man, whose
business it is to be talked of, is much helped at being attacked.'
Garrick, I observed, had been often so helped. JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir;
though Garrick had more opportunities than almost any man, to keep the
publick in mind of him, by exhibiting himself to such numbers, he
would not have had so much reputation, had he not been so much
attacked. Every attack produces a defence; and so attention is
engaged. There is no sport in mere praise, when people are all of a
mind.' BOSWELL. 'Then Hume is not the worse for Seattle's attack?'
JOHNSON. 'He is, because Beattie has confuted him. I do not say, but
that there may be some attacks which will hurt an author. Though Hume
suffered from Beattie, he was the better for other attacks.' (He
certainly could not include in that number those of Dr Adams, and Mr
Tytler.) BOSWELL. 'Goldsmith is the better for attacks.' JOHNSON.
'Yes, sir; but he does not think so yet. When Goldsmith and I
published, each of us something, at the same time, we were given to
understand that we might review each other. Goldsmith was for
accepting the offer. I said, No; set reviewers at defiance. It was
said to old Bentley, upon the attacks against him, "Why, they'll write
you down." "No, sir," he replied; "depend upon it, no man was ever
written down but by himself."' He observed to me afterwards, that the
advantages authours derived from attacks, were chiefly in subjects of
taste, where you cannot confute, as so much may be said on either
side. He told me he did not know who was the authour of the Adventures
of a Guinea, but that the bookseller had sent the first volume to him
in manuscript, to have his opinion if it should be printed; and he
thought it should.
The weather bei |
