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ACETARIA
A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS
* * * * *
By JOHN EVELYN, Esq.
Author of the _Kalendarium_
* * * * *
_BROOKLYN_,
Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_,
BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN
1937
_Printed in the United States of America_
_Publisher's Note_
This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of
1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and
those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt
has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit
has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have
been carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained.
Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly;
and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a
man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous,
they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of
a more recent generation.
_Foreword to Acetaria_
John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of
Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor
offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and
redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record
of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and
architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life.
Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the
combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the
supreme achievement of English culture.
Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must
observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a
course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence."
Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons
was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of
Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the
University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and
civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and
buildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch
War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he
remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in
organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary.
In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing
his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books,
one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener;
instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn
undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices de
la Campagne_." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons,
consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this
book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such
as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat
Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as
a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried
on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded
in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees.
The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject
matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek,
political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the
inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he
suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air
of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of
Chalcography and Engraving in Copper."
Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn
grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first
advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing
foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby,
he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic
comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the
little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth
edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac.
The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with the
idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture.
The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for that
ambitious work.
The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical
for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are
cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes,
"salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins
and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly
good.
The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It
also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign
of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of
scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas.
Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to
prepare new dishes.
Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it
is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with
a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse
trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we
read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the
family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or
again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy
rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn.
_Helen M. Fox_
* * * * *
[Illustration: _Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition_]
* * * * *
_To the Right Honourable_
_JOHN_
Lord Somers
_of Evesham_
Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England,
and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_.
* * * * *
_My Lord_,
The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'd
and delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Office
your Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, but
your Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) by
the Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_:
As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon Your
Lordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor,
yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generously
honoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made.
A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honoured
the _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resigns
it to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardships
the _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and
Protection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation from
the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_,
and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitious
Influence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeed
has hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears of
a ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining and
Discouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which,
that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least.
This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permit
me to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Person
living: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and
(next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as Humane
Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire
beyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult
Qualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperous
and Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from
adventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazy
Acquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations,
which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid and
useful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies,
Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improve
them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind.
_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entire
Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable to
subsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its
_Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_,
and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the
_Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But
_Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that as
Great a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_
(one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_;
there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, or
beyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry.
Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_
of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and set
apart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions and
Impostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True,
and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_,
wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made so
many _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her
_Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would lead
Men to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_.
And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, to
usher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in a
fine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of
_Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicable
as it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the Greatest
Princes have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their
_Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in the
midst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of
_Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_.
To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _Rural
Employments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular
Business, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age has
produc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; That
after they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, they
sometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_
for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were
_Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidst
the most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all
their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor that
of the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the
_Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_,
and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of
_Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their
_Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd,
as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor.
But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship:
Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside their
Grandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitely
prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm)
But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_
were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, and
never thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity and
Veneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held.
Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger
_Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallel
with the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under the
Worthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vast
Abilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded his
time, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, and
by his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. The
Ancient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day for
the _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the
_Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_;
but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And
'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among
the Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _Pomponius
Atticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out his
Money more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweet
Retirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of the
Greatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, and
water them with his own Hands.
But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_
ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, is
indeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them that
which was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knows
who it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation of
this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for this
Presumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_
in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never write
so much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides the
gratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art.
Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _Supplicia
Luxuriae_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; that
were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to
their Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_
than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who are
eager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_
Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after all
their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either:
For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self,
(when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a very
moderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, and
that truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion)
_Lasciva pagina, vita proba._ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd
in Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice I
censure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arte
consenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annext
to these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, would
acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. What
I humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_,
the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the most
illustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as it
concerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to
have taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the
_Royal Society_.
But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me that
Honor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its most
Precious Moments.
I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeed
needed I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which is
already shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_)
after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, when
it was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honor
to be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their
Addresses, who am,
_My Lord,
Your Lordship's Most Humble
and Most Obedient Servant,
JOHN EVELYN_.
* * * * *
THE PREFACE
The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found,
encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I
_could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the best
Improvement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regards
a Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love a
Diversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who have
arrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'd
Gardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothing
wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the
Field; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertile
Store: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have after
all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and as
yet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require the
Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man to
Emerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boast
themselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far
extended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is the
Variety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of all
the Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch,
_and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended
(_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished from
that Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens,
_highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, and
Deepest_ Philosopher.
_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could
I find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle,
Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, had
ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ Vulgar
Weed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd for
another State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Time
shall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd.
_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_
Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder,
that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty,
_in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, to
so enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet be
comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the
Square of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficient
to furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with
a most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justly
wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Man
began to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate of
that Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines
(without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinary
Expence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as it
ought to be_.
_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Glorious
and Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that
should, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thing
else to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building
too late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon the
Foundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There ought
therefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_
(_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole
(according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means and
Courage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part
_at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat,
and Consummate Work indeed_.
_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_
SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are both
capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_
(_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cuncta
me dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiae contineret, sed plurima; nam
illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ulla
Disciplina aut Ars, quae singulari consummata sit ingenio.
_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have done
my Endeavour_.
... Jurtilis olim
Ne Videar vixisse.
_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean,
concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd,
as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick
I mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and a
Simple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only
(and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothing
seems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst the
Product of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, than
heretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit)
_I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S.
* * * * *
_THE_
PLAN
_OF A_
_ROYAL GARDEN:_
Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of
_Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_.
* * * * *
In Three Books
* * * * *
_BOOK I_.
_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general.
_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water;
Earth_.
_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the
_Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_.
_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_.
_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden.
_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_
and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden.
_BOOK II_.
_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_,
and _Sorts_.
_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and
_rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and
_Assistants_.
_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various
_Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers.
_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners.
_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of the
Ground; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c._
_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees,
Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c._
_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and
_Embossments_.
_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles,
Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other
_Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_.
_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas,
Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_.
_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptae, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts,
Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments.
_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials,
Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments.
_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's,
Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_.
_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c._
_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_.
_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, and
Conservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them.
_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, how
they are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner
_is_ to keep his _Register_.
_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden.
_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_.
_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees,
Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden of
Pleasure.
_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_.
_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of
_Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_.
_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing,
Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c._
_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens are
obnoxious, together with _Remedies_.
_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_,
directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ are
in prime.
_BOOK III_.
_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying,
Transmuting_, and Altering the
_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants,
Fruits_ and _Flowers_.
_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and
_extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_,
Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Account
of their _Virtues_.
_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of
_Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preserving
them in their _Beauty_.
_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk,
Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers,
Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and other
Artificial Representations of them.
_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa,
Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_.
_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_.
_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and
_Books_ assistant to it.
_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and
_Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shew
the _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use of
Gardens.
_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_.
_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World,
_Ancient_ and _Modern_.
_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_.
_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_.
----_Laudato ingentia rura_,
_Exiguum colito_.----
* * * * *
[Illustration]
ACETARIA:
A Discourse of Sallets
* * * * *
Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs,
improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as others
say, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of several
kinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and
_per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The
Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated
by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine
Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of
_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore,
Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish
the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which
were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from
_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending
the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan]
_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was
sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others
again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual
_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his
Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all
the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says
[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be
taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_,
as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the
[7]Creation.
A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the
_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns
the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular
Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are,
or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to
give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek:
psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the
Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_
affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require
to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as
[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and
some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so
[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_,
or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and
other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always
in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_,
to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_
and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords
a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of
_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish
and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the
_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_
themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of
this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and
_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the
Ingredients, which we will call
Furniture _and_ Materials
The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_,
consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_
(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than
would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_
only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief
enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller
_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we
have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial
Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter
given.
1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the
nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty,
Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh
Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the
Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper,
Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent
_Vernal_ Pottage.
2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being
slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_,
and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says,
at the end of Meals.
They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_
crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent
Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The
_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich
Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly
Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care
extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that
hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_.
The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd.
The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the
_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every
_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh
melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in
a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_.
They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper
being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one
another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_.
'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_,
Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that
they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly
spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena
Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_.
_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with
sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and
tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.)
as the _French_ term is.
3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too
strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops
to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_.
4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating,
sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing
away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other
Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks,
during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble
Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers.
5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The
_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_)
being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially
of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a
grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl,
Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally
somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd
_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned
[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others
since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_
(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and
_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so
vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no
despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is
the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin
Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into
curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_.
_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives
call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as
_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much
us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive
Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough.
7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist,
purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour:
The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition;
but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known
Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See
_Bugloss_.
8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent
in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_.
9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something
more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly
restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by
_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd
_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But
indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but
rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_.
Burnet, See _Pimpinella_.
10. Buds, _Gemmae, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most
_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as
_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_,
esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and
_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or
eaten by themselves.
11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish,
so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_
the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd
by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice;
yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_,
according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting
by the _Dutch_. The _Cymae_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very
delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In
raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes
from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently
unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large
Coste_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the
_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them
again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_
from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenaeus_
rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient
_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the
_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most
_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought
to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them
noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But
whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the
contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for
the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_
('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach,
and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we
read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing,
_per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had
_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_
in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in
_England_.
12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_.
13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry,
Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in
Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.
14. Chervile, _Chaerophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish
Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimae_, and Tops, with
other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they
may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The
_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons:
This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for
divers Sauces.
Cibbols. \
Cives. / Vide Onions, _Schoenopraesson_.
15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_,
made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_,
Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_.
16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_,
are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages.
17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops
and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other
Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call
them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_.
18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_.
19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But
above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the
torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against
the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_,
and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_
being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the
_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_,
proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees,
and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little.
20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved
_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen
the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that
is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice,
in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_,
too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from
a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in
thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity,
macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others
prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them
with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of
_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and
indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining
their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing
remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the
_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and
_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is
greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the
least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since
_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being
accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in
the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a
raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in
White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated
with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter.
21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_
are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring
till _June_.
22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters,
to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and
little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People
eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife
_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_.
23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho'
otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_,
are excellent for the _Scorbute_.
Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near
_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by
Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots,
or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing.
24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both
to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho'
the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in
_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most
sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently
wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_.
25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and
tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold,
profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions
of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in
Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being
boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and
the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_.
Eschalot. See _Onions_.
26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick,
hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain;
especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be
peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and
Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_,
and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into
Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call
_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which
sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out,
as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_.
27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and
Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their
_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone
in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_,
sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd
in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange,
Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of
them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome
_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c.
28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_
and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with
almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help
Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by
which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet
think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in
_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we
absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its
intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the
eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had
committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats,
nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the
Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler
_Roccombo_.
_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its
fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_.
Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_.
29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in
_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast,
and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_.
30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for
_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten
raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They
are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions.
31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran,
Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in
_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent
against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names
of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than
the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are
by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients;
communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.
32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal
Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country
People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.
33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since
_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat
them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to
the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender
and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See
_Onion_.
34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_,
(to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of
its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal
Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and
Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem
with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and
enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_.
It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet
less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in
Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites
Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates
Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals,
_Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was)
from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the
most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients
called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great
[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness
to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to
this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor
[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other
Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to
say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_.
How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells
himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and
concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In
a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_
store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome
to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual
_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not
so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_,
or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported
to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture
of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our
Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly
Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_;
for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of
_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade,
Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all
the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or
_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf,
Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of
the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that
besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest,
there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up
to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and
indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant
_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd
from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and
taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally
to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of.
35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_,
&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or
bitter. See _Orange_.
36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the
_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd,
be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by
the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvae folium
Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_
and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table:
The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvae salubres corpori_,
approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_,
by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than
_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_,
that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but
by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_,
tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with
_Butter_.
Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See
_Blitum_.
37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho'
an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy
and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and
well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the
noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think
our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet
under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they
were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for
_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.
There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly
Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they
drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all
dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been
accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten
in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as
harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with
_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with
a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to
commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely
cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo.
Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary
_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe
Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are
very delicate.
38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and
warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach,
and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the
_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone
(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little
_Sugar_.
39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terrae_, by _Porphyry
Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_
Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French,
Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as
some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten
crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to
order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the
very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable
only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen,
they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally
reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without
cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest
Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole
Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Caesarian
Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Broma theon], a Dainty fit for
the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they
have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_
deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annaeus Serenus_, and
several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the
same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of
this suspicious Dainty) _Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who
indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats
_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his
Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution,
[Greek: Bare pnigoenta muketon], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenaeus_
reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three
Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient
warning.
Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about
_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we
send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_,
and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl,
and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_
purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell,
and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord
_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and
doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these
rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves
insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or
_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down.
But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage
none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all
concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and
referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other
_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr.
_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and
corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in
deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less
pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich,
airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of
about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round
and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated
in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or
Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce,
they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their
Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed
_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells
us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and
compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle
it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in
_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is
in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings
and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three
Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other
Experiments.
40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the
Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of
_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to
quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling
heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable
_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids
Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the
most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw
_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In
_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with
the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.
_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_.
41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the
Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some
eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other
Herbs.
42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of
_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd
eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd.
Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own
them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd,
they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut
Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to
offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration.
In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable
only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some
commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in
Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold
_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and
_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of
_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or
two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing
the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they
frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only
season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man,
with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented
Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in
[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the
_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_
among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as
whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were
ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them.
Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as
a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which
some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so
highly magnify them.
43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set
over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than
their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender
Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in
Pottage. See _Blitum_.
44. Orange, _Arantiae_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling,
and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists
Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_
being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute,
cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best
_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and
_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the
Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which
impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon.
45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it
self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having
something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the
_Turnep_.
46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning
to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_,
enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_.
47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd
Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic
Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for
being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such
as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our
_Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it)
to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently
adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of
promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the
Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only.
_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the
_Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual
Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much
more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and
Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable
in our _Sallet_.
Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become
sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar
to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented
with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut
long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time,
till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it
through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar
_Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very
clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing
in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_,
dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do
_Myrtle-berries_.
48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry,
opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_
in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than
_Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted
on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be
admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at
all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there
being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_,
we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful
to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_.
49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is
our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so
generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis
pass'd into a Proverb:
_L'Insalata non e buon, ne bella_
_Ove non e la Pimpinella_.
But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine
Element.
50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next
the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and
cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable
for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally
entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis
likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with
moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach,
which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after
it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for
Nourishment.
The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping
Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during
winter, if it prove not too severe.
_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much
eaten.
51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably
accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots)
are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the
[39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very
grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients:
The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent,
eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are
eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and
were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots
whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex
auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that
he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am
sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe,
innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus
Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed
(besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the
Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to
the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho'
otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when
the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_
differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter
for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them
more _Nourishing_.
There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_,
of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable
_Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account
an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also
the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have
done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take
_Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to
steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has
no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of
Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_
has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the
_Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides.
52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots
eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing.
53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with
_Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_.
Roccombo. See _Onions_.
54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_,
_Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with
our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always
welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of
_Wine_. See _Flowers_.
55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd
and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost
imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble
Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_,
_Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis
a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the
assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot
therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but
principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to
domineer.
Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_.
56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about
_Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and
tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_,
almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other
excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the
Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our
hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd,
it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in
_France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have
prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own
Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender
Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_,
it has nothing like it.
57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepae_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_,
which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes
Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold
with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.
58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that
of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_,
prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted
in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_.
59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family)
was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is
an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_.
The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as
likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short,
first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_,
_Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd
in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and
_Praetors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be
given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the
green in _Fennil_.
Shallots. See _Onion_.
60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the
Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the
_Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor
_Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute.
This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd,
roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is
very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore
something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!
61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French
Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_
of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best
is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning
Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is
an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful
a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_,
and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide
_Wood-Sorrel_.
62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd
to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._
Ambassador and his Retinue.
63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist;
_Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing
more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They
are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but
with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily
boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is
done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem
the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of
the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size.
64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner
kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a
_Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most
excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost
all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis
_Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and
(tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and
in all places.
Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_.
65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow
dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only;
and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and
_Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the
Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_.
66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its
domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much
fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with
the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_,
_Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried
brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one
of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes.
67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The
Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our
Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly
cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness
of the Ventricle, _&c._
68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariae_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle,
disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_,
being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or
raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_;
some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the
_Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both
Nourishing and Restorative.
69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist,
grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender,
dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_.
70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_
is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_
speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which
were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is
preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being
sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do
excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common
_Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud.
And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable
sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten
at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best
of _Wheat_.
Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and
tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and
when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal,
season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the
Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and
bake it like common Bread.
Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with
_Sugar_ and _Butter_.
71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like
those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_,
which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_.
72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho'
Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_,
_Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet
and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then
peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with
_Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or
whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root
there is hardly growing.
73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of
other _Sorrels_.
To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_,
since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest
_Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to
eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an
hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste.
The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days,
that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however
it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root.
The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the
_Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and
_Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_;
which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths
as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of
_Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant
_Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonaeus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers
of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in
Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the
_Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever
it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these
add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_,
by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our
_Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen
to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten
in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust
and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the
Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the
Learned in _Botany_.
There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here
with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large
_Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its
golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a
dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the
ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that
it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their
young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender,
begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten
by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_
alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach,
but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which
_Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and
_Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great
vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such
effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time,
us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_
frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_
(common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_,
and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd,
and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in
_Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but
these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so
others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater
Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_
it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than
_Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted.
To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_,
formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What
if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and
challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd,
and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was
dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read
of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary
Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before
amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius
Caesar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In
a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the
_Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on
the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for
its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb:
_Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it
only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_,
whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it
yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and
genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and
a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine
Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary;
since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of
the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._
and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat.
But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is,
by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer
_Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar
_Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly
believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently
describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of
Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and
_Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as
nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others,
assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their
Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their
_Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of
our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with
the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the
richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted
instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature.
And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_
as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold
_Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees,
and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of
_Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood
according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it
has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of
the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort,
and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.
What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of
_Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means,
approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_
is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because,
say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green,
young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience
shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the
deadly _Cicutae_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and
_Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_,
(_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_;
_Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and
horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral
Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden
Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them
unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should
not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them
annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_,
offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and
discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And
therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and
_Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is,
that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other
Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are
wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer;
to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had
sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot
therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_
[48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that
all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and
Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_
(a little chang'd)
_Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_,
_Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_.
The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what
[50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the
Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account,
as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_
or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it
might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_:
Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_
feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should
therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the
Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as
not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing
for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill
effects.
_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as
_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how
much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again,
as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst
Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek.
And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga],
and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their
Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides
the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_,
and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter.
We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by
[51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's
need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the
Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule
Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_
Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other
quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill
and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients,
so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed)
_Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these
Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be
suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust,
Savour, or Vertue. To this end,
The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish
Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._
The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be
qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the
_Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as
repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;)
with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the
more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_
and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and
Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are
Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast
and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more
or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd
in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general,
that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the
most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_
and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this
Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the
_Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and
powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were
enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and
proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are
contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly
marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_)
_If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_
_Of Temperance and Innocence,_
_And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_
_Diseases passage find;_
_They must not think here to assail_
_A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_
_They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_
_Before they can prevail;_
_Scarce any Plant is used here,_
_Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_.
We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_,
every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd
by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_
and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_
in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And
tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest)
striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile
all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the
Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pos
esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very
same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have
one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care
requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and
repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should
be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting,
as _Athenaeus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn.
lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:
_What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_
_What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_
_Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_
_Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_.
As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for
her _Angelical_ Guest.
Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_,
_Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the
_Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_
Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the
_Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no
Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_;
too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which
it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent
_Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd
_Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should
be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes,
according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned
[56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious.
'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their
Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of
different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they
different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and
activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of
some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _e contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_,
_Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without
_Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again
_Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek:
skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken
by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and
that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_)
of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls
them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_,
and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes
find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_,
_Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_,
pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.
I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients
be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd,
dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather
discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially
_Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this,
I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently
protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them
remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture:
And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and
so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_
following.
II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary,
as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_)
be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of
a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_,
or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth,
light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_,
and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_,
and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes.
Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its
stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means
to be allow'd.
III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly
clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar,
whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with
the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_,
_Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.
A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name,
or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put
into a small Vessel to ferment.
IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_,
as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great
a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes
merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately
dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as
of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without
heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty;
provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of
_Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful
_Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be
most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been
so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they
affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevee_ in lieu of
our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and
_Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_
and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_,
_Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant,
we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and
all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no
more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed
there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however
different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question,
whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_,
unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_,
gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be
prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd)
whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_
of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis
thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than
our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best
ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.
Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in
_Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet
light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing,
delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_,
That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the
Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one
for cold, the other for hot stomachs.
V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best
_Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire
Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little
(not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of
a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been
steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen
_Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_
over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve
the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to
temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some
esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian
Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little
_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other
_Mustard_ should be.
_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a
polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most
preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.
VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to
too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here
let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet
Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other
_Peppers_, and more wholsom.
Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted
to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention
_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_,
_Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.
Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the
_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it
with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and
sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_
and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its
golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt
to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little
incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.
VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_,
boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_,
_Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the
Herbs.
VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_,
with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_,
&c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are
apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.
IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes)
be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep
nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients;
_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and
_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there
ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid
_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they
are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually
stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are
husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt
to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled
and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis
incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the
gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly
of _Sallet-Herbs_.
The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and
neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions.
Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_,
_Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several
Seasons you have in the following Table.
It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_
were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them?
we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal
Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty
Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving
out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under
these three or four Heads.
But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and
therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each
containing and lasting Three Months.
_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no
more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next
Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.
* * * * *
[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their
original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section
headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these
new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually
indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]
=========================================================================
Species. Ordering and Culture.
=========================================================================
/ 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch.
| 2. _Cichory_, \
| 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up
IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, |
Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, /
|
| 6. _Roman_ \ \ Tied-up to Blanch.
| 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce,_ |
| 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up.
\ 9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves.
/ 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, \
| 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size.
| 12. _Purslane_, /
|
XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, \ Seed-Leaves,
| 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them.
|
Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, \ The fine young Leaves only,
Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots.
|
| 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves.
| 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those
| only next them.
| 19. _Turnip_, \
| 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only.
| 21. _Scurvy-grass_, /
|
| 22. _Chervil_, \ The young Leaves
| 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after
| 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings.
| 25. _Persly_, /
|
| 26. _Tarragon_, \ The tender Shoots
| 27. _Mints_, / and Tops.
|
| 28. _Sampier_, \
| 29. _Balm_, | The young tender
| 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots.
|
| 31. _Shalots_, \
| 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves.
|
| 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers.
|
| 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade \ The Seed-Leaves
\ 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops.
=========================================================================
=========================================================================
Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Rampions_, / 10 \
Blanch'd | _Endive_, | 2 |
as before | _Succory_, | 5 | Roots in Number.
| _Fennel_, Sweet. | 10 |
\ _Sellery_, \ 4 /
/ _Lamb-Lettuce_, \
| _Lob-Lettuce_, / A pugil of each.
|
| _Radish_, \
| _Cresses_, / Three parts each.
|
| _Turneps_, \
| _Mustard_, Seedlings, / Of each One part.
| _Scurvy-grass_,
| _Spinach_, Two parts.
| _Sorrel_, Greenland, \
Green and | _Sorrel_, French |
Unblanch'd | _Chervil_, sweet, | One part of each.
| _Burnet_, |
| _Rocket_, /
| Twenty large Leaves.
| _Tarragon_,
| _Balm_, \
| _Mint_, / One small part of each.
| _Sampier_,
| _Shalots_, \
| _Cives_, / Very few
|
| _Cabbage_, Winter. Two pugils or
\ small handfuls.
=========================================================================
Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
|
