Free Ebooks - JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE

JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE
NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES
By William Griffith.
Arranged by John M'Clelland.

CONTENTS.

Notice of the author from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society, and
Extracts from Correspondence.

CHAPTER

I Proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the Examination of the
Tea Plant.

II Journal of an Excursion in the Mishmee Mountains.

III Tea localities in the Muttock Districts, Upper Assam.

IV Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookum.

V Journey from Hookum to Ava.

VI Botanical Notes written in pencil, connected with the foregoing
Chapter.

VII General Report on the foregoing.

VIII Notes on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to Rangoon, written in
pencil.

IX Journey towards Assam.

X Continuation of the same, with Notes on the Distribution of
Plants.

XI Journey from Assam into Bootan, with Notes on the Distribution of
Plants.

XII Continuation of the Journey in Bootan.

XIII Return of the Mission from Bootan, with Meteorological
Observations, etc.

XIV Journey with the Army of the Indus, from Loodianah to Candahar.

XV Journey from Candahar to Cabul.

XVI Journey from Cabul to Bamean--the Helmund and Oxus rivers.

XVII Journey from Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur.

XVIII Journey from Peshawur to Pushut.

XIX On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants.

XX Journey from Pushut to Kuttoor and Barowl in Kaffiristan, and
return to Pushut and Cabul.

XXI Journey from Cabul to Kohi-Baba.

XXII Journey from Peshawur to Lahore.

XXIII Journey from Lahore to Simla.

XXIV Barometrical Heights and Latitudes of places visited throughout
Affghanistan.

LIST OF PLATES.

I VIEW FROM NUNKLOW

II THE VILLAGE OF NUNKLOW

III CAPTAIN MATHIE'S CUTCHERRY, THE BOOTAN HILLS, AND HIMALAYA

IV THE HIMALAYA FROM RANGAGURRAH

V BRAMAKHOOND AND FAQUEER'S ROCK

VI THE MORI-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND

VII THE DEO-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND

VIII THE VALLEY OF HOOKUM

IX MEINKHOOM

X VIEW FROM BEESA

XI VIEW ON THE JHEELS

XII THE OK-KLONG ROCK

XIII KULLONG BRIDGE

XIV TASSGOUNG FROM UPPER KULONG

XV CHINDUPJEE

XVI GHUZNEE

XVII BAMEAN IDOLS

XVIII Map of the Khyber Pass

NOTICE OF WILLIAM GRIFFITH, from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society,
with a few extracts from his private correspondence.

"WILLIAM GRIFFITH, Esq., the youngest son of the late Thomas Griffith,
was born on the 4th of March 1810, at his father's residence at Ham
Common, near Kingston-upon-Thames, in the county of Surrey.

"He was educated for the Medical profession, and completed his studies at
the London University, where he became a pupil of Prof. Lindley, under
whose able instructions, assisted by the zealous friendship of Mr. R. H.
Solly, and in conjunction with two fellow pupils of great scientific
promise, Mr. Slack and Mr. Valentine, he made rapid progress in the
acquisition of botanical knowledge. The first public proofs that he gave
of his abilities are contained in a microscopic delineation of the
structure of the wood and an analysis of the flower of _Phytocrene_
_gigantea_, in the third volume of Dr. Wallich's 'Plantae Asiaticae
Rariores'; and in a note on the development and structure of _Targionia_
_hypophylla_, appended to M. de Mirbel's Dissertation on _Marchantia_
_polymorpha_, both published in 1832. So highly were his talents as an
observer appreciated at this early period, that Dr. Wallich speaks of him
as one "whose extraordinary talents and knowledge as a botanist, entitle
him to the respect of all lovers of the science;" and M. de Mirbel
characterizes him as "jeune Anglois, tres instruit, tres zele et fort bon
observateur."

"His note on _Targionia_ is dated Paris, April 2nd, 1832, and in the
month of May of the same year, having finished his studies at the London
University with great distinction, he sailed from England for India,
which was destined to be the scene of his future labours. He arrived at
Madras on the 24th of September, and immediately received his appointment
as Assistant-Surgeon in the service of the East India Company.

"His first appointment in India was to the coast of Tenasserim; but in
the year 1835 he was attached to the Bengal Presidency, and was selected
to form one of a deputation, consisting of Dr. Wallich and himself as
botanists, and Mr. MacClelland as geologist, to visit and inspect the Tea-
forests (as they were called) of Assam, and to make researches in the
natural history of that almost unexplored district.

"This mission was for Mr. Griffith the commencement of a series of
journeys in pursuit of botanical knowledge, embracing nearly the whole
extent of the East India Company's extra-peninsular possessions, and
adding large collections, in every branch of natural history, but
especially botany, to those which, under the auspices of the Indian
Government, had previously been formed. He next, under the directions of
Capt. Jenkins, the Commissioner, pushed his investigations to the utmost
eastern limit of the Company's territory, traversing the hitherto
unexplored tracts in the neighbourhood of the Mishmee mountains which lie
between Suddiya and Ava. Of the splendid collection of insects formed
during this part of his tour some account has been given by Mr. Hope in
the Transactions of the Entomological Society and in the eighteenth
volume of our own Transactions.

"His collection of plants was also largely increased on this remarkable
journey, which was followed by a still more perilous expedition,
commenced in February of the following year, from Assam through the
Burmese dominions to Ava, and down the Irrawadi to Rangoon, in the course
of which he was reported to have been assassinated. The hardships
through which he passed during the journey and his excessive application
produced, soon after his arrival in Calcutta, a severe attack of fever:
on his recovery from which he was appointed Surgeon to the Embassy to
Bootan, then about to depart under the charge of the late Major
Pemberton. He took this opportunity of revisiting the Khasiya Hills,
among which he formed a most extensive collection; and having joined
Major Pemberton at Goalpara, traversed with him above 400 miles of the
Bootan country, from which he returned to Calcutta about the end of June
1839. In November of the same year he joined the army of the Indus in a
scientific capacity, and penetrated, after the subjugation of Cabool,
beyond the Hindoo Khoosh into Khorassan, from whence, as well as from
Affghanistan, he brought collections of great value and extent. During
these arduous journeys his health had several times suffered most
severely, and he was more than once reduced by fever to a state of
extreme exhaustion; but up to this time the strength of his constitution
enabled him to triumph over the attacks of disease, and the energy of his
mind was so great, that the first days of convalescence found him again
as actively employed as ever.

"On his return to Calcutta in August 1841, after visiting Simla and the
Nerbudda, he was appointed to the medical duties at Malacca: but Dr.
Wallich having proceeded to the Cape for the re-establishment of his
health, Mr. Griffith was recalled in August 1842 to take, during his
absence, the superintendence of the Botanic Garden near Calcutta, in
conjunction with which he also discharged the duties of Botanical
Professor in the Medical College to the great advantage of the students.
Towards the end of 1844 Dr. Wallich resumed his functions at the Botanic
Garden. In September Mr. Griffith married Miss Henderson, the sister of
the wife of his brother, Captain Griffith, and on the 11th of December he
quitted Calcutta to return to Malacca, where he arrived on the 9th of
January in the present year. On the 31st of the same month he was
attacked by hepatitis, and notwithstanding every attention on the part of
the medical officer who had officiated during his absence, and who
fortunately still remained, he gradually sunk under the attack, which
terminated fatally on the 9th of February. "His constitution," says his
attached friend, Mr. MacClelland, in a letter to Dr. Horsfield, "seemed
for the last two or three years greatly shattered, his energies alone
remaining unchanged. Exposure during his former journeys and travels
laid the seeds of his fatal malady in his constitution, while his anxiety
about his pursuits and his zeal increased. He became care-worn and
haggard in his looks, often complaining of anomalous symptoms, marked by
an extreme rapidity of pulse, in consequence of which he had left off
wine for some years past, and was obliged to observe great care and
attention in his diet. In Affghanistan he was very nearly carried off by
fever, to which he had been subject in his former travels in Assam. No
government ever had a more devoted or zealous servant, and I impute much
of the evil consequences to his health to his attempting more than the
means at his disposal enabled him to accomplish with justice to himself."

"The most important of Mr. Griffith's published memoirs are contained in
the Transactions of the Linnaean Society. Previous to starting on his
mission to Assam, he communicated to the Society the first two of a
series of valuable papers on the development of the vegetable ovulum in
_Santalum_, _Loranthus_, _Viscum_, and some other plants, the anomalous
structure of which appeared calculated to throw light on this still
obscure and difficult subject. These papers are entitled as follows:--

1. On the Ovulum of _Santalum album_. Linn. Trans. xviii. p. 57.

2. Notes on the Development of the Ovulum of _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_;
and on the mode of Parasitism of these two genera. Linn. Trans. xviii.
p. 71.

3. On the Ovulum of _Santalum_, _Osyris_, _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_.
Linn. Trans. xix. p. 171.

"Another memoir, or rather series of memoirs, "On the Root-Parasites,
referred by authors to _Rhizantheae_, and on various plants related to
them," occupies the first place in the Part of our Transactions which is
now in the press, with the exception of the portion relating to
_Balanophoreae_, unavoidably deferred to the next following Part. In
this memoir, as in those which preceded it, Mr. Griffith deals with some
of the most obscure and difficult questions of vegetable physiology, on
which his minute and elaborate researches into the singularly anomalous
structure of the curious plants referred to will be found to have thrown
much new and valuable light.

"In India, on his return from his Assamese journey, he published in the
'Transactions of the Agricultural Society of Calcutta,' a 'Report on the
Tea-plant of Upper Assam,' which, although for reasons stated avowedly
incomplete, contains a large amount of useful information on a subject
which was then considered of great practical importance. He also
published in the 'Asiatic Researches,' in the 'Journal of the Asiatic
Society of Bengal,' and in the 'Transactions of the Medical and Physical
Society of Calcutta,' numerous valuable botanical papers; but the most
important of his Indian publications are contained in the 'Calcutta
Journal of Natural History,' edited jointly by Mr. MacClelland and
himself. Of these it may be sufficient at present to refer to his memoir
"On _Azolla_ and _Salvinia_," two very remarkable plants which he has
most elaborately illustrated, and in relation to which he has entered
into some very curious speculations; and his still unfinished monograph
of "The Palms of British India," which promises to be a highly important
contribution to our knowledge of a group hitherto almost a sealed book to
European Botanists.

"But the great object of his life, that for which all his other labours
were but a preparation, was the publication of a General Scientific Flora
of India, a task of immense extent, labour and importance. To the
acquisition of materials for this task, in the shape of collections,
dissections, drawings and descriptions, made under the most favourable
circumstances, he had devoted twelve years of unremitted exertion. His
own collections, (not including those formed in Cabool and the
neighbouring countries) he estimated at 2500 species from the Khasiya
Hills, 2000 from the Tenasserim provinces, 1000 from the province of
Assam, 1200 from the Himalaya range in the Mishmee country, 1700 from the
same great range in the country of Bootan, 1000 from the neighbourhood of
Calcutta, and 1200 from the Naga Hills at the extreme east of Upper
Assam, from the valley of Hookhoong, the district of Mogam, and from the
tract of the Irrawadi between Mogam and Ava. Even after making large
deductions from the sum-total of these numbers on account of the forms
common to two or more of the collections, the amount of materials thus
brought together by one man must be regarded as enormous. The time was
approaching when he believed that he could render these vast collections
subservient to the great end which he had in view. He had some time
since issued an invitation to many eminent botanists in Europe to
co-operate with him in the elaboration of particular families; and he
purposed after a few years' additional residence in India to return to
England with all his materials, and to occupy himself in giving to the
world the results of his unwearied labours. But this purpose was not
destined to be fulfilled, his collections have passed by his directions
into the hands of the East India Company, and there can be no doubt, from
the well-known liberality of the Directors, which this Society in
particular has so often experienced, that they will be so disposed of by
that enlightened body as to fulfil at once the demands of science and the
last wishes of the faithful and devoted servant by whom they were formed.
It is hoped too, that the most important of his unpublished materials,
both in drawings and manuscripts, will be given to the world in a manner
worthy of the author and of the rank in science which he
filled."--_Proceedings of the Linnaean Society_, No. xxv, 1845.

To the foregoing brief sketch which was read before the Linnaean Society
at the Anniversary Meeting 24th May 1845, it is scarcely necessary to
make any addition. It is worthy of remark however, as showing how
talents sometimes run in families, that Mr. Griffith was great grandson
of Jeremiah Meyer, Historical Painter to George the Second, and one of
the founders of the Royal Academy. It is also but fair to state on the
present occasion, that he was not himself the only member of the family
who would appear to have inherited something of his grandfather's
peculiar art, as we owe the transfer of the landscapes to stone, which
add so much to the appearance of the following volume, to the talent and
kindness of his sister.

It may perhaps be acceptable in this place to afford a few extracts from
the private letters of Mr. Griffith, especially those in which he adverts
with a liberality of feeling to his contemporaries, no less honourable to
himself than to the persons mentioned.

The following notes addressed to his uncle, at various periods, exhibit
the sentiments with which he regarded the late Mr. Bauer not merely as an
artist, but original observer.

* * * * *

_From letters of Mr. GRIFFITH, to Mr. MEYER_.

_Mergui_: _January 17th_, 1835.

"My last accounts of Mr. Bauer state him to have been in excellent
health: he had just completed some more of his unrivalled drawings."

* * * * *

_Suddya_: _December 30th_, 1836.

"Pray give the compliments of the season to Mr. Bauer, to whom I look up
with the greatest admiration: what a pity it is for science that such a
life as his is not renewable _ad libitum_. Tell him that I have a
beautiful new genus allied to Rafflesia, the flowers of which are about a
span across, it is dioecious and icosandrous, and has an abominable
smell. How I look back occasionally on my frequent and delightful visits
to Kew."

* * * * *

To MRS. H---.

_Serampore_, _Calcutta_: _July 22nd_,
1841.

"I was aware of the departure of Mr. Bauer through the _Athenaeum_, in
which an excellent notice of him appeared. He certainly was a man to
whom I looked up with constant admiration: he was incomparable in several
respects, and I am happy to find, that his death was so characteristic of
his most inoffensive and meritorious life. It is also very pleasing to
me to find that he continued to think well of me. How I should have been
able to delight him had he lived a few years longer."

* * * * *

_Calcutta_: _June_, 1843.

"Poor Mr. Bauer, we never shall see his like again, I have seen but few
notices of his life, which assuredly is worthy of study. There is not a
place I shall visit with better feelings than Kew, it has so many
pleasant associations even from my school-days."

* * * * *

_Calcutta_: _December 31st_, 1843.

"Mr. Bauer is not half appreciated yet; he is considered a very great
artist, but what is that to what he was? But he did not fight for his
own hand, though he worked hard enough in all conscience. Mr. Bauer in
fact preceded all in the train of discovery: he saw in 1797, what others
did not see till 30 years after. For instance, the elongation of the
pollens' inner membrane into a tube, the first step towards the
_complete_ knowledge we now have of vegetable embryogeny. Unfortunately,
Mr. Bauer drew, but did not write, and when I recall to mind a remark of
Mr. Brown, that it was a disadvantage to be able to draw, I always fancy
he had Bauer in his mind's eye; for had he been a writer and not a
drawer, before 1800, in great probability we should have known nearly as
much of embryogeny as we do now. But he shut his portfolio, and folks
went on believing the old fovivillose doctrine and bursting of the
pollen, which, his observations of the pollens' inner membrane, would
have destroyed at once. Then with regard to Orchideae and Asclepiadeae,
he was equally in advance: it would be a rich treat if some one would
come forward and publish a selection from his drawings, without a word of
letterpress."

* * * * *

_Calcutta_: _February 11th_, 1844.

"Mr. Bauer's light is not yet set on the hill. Really when I look back
at his works I am lost in admiration, and always regret that he worked
more for others than for himself, and that he did not use his pen as
freely as he did his brush. When, in the name of all that is generous,
will great men think that true greatness consist in endeavouring to make
others more prominent than themselves?"

For some years before his death, Mr. Griffith would appear to have had a
presentiment that he would not be spared to complete the description of
all his collections. On one occasion, when enumerating those who might
contribute most efficiently to this object, in the event of its not being
permitted to himself, he writes:--

"I cannot however refrain from paying my tribute of respect to Mr. George
Bentham, the most industrious, perspicuous, and philosophical Botanist
who has systematically contributed to lessen the difficulties under which
Indian Botanists have generally suffered.

"There are a few others from whom the sincerity of friendship fully
warrants me in expecting every possible assistance: of these Dr. Wight is
already well known, and others are rising rapidly to fill, I hope, the
highest Botanical stations when these shall have been vacated by the
leviathans who now occupy them. Let not the cynic accuse me of
partiality when I mention the names of William Valentine, of Decaisne,
and C. M. Lemann."

He also delighted to speak and write in terms of the warmest regard of
those to whom he was indebted for facilities in his pursuits. To Lord
Auckland he invariably alluded in terms of the deepest gratitude--"Under
his Lordship's patronage" he remarks on one occasion, "I have received
such advantages as make me ashamed of the little I have done, and which
are constantly holding up before me my deficiencies in many branches of
enquiry connected with the physiology and distribution of plants."

* * * * *

The following letters are quoted chiefly for the additional information
they afford on the subject of his travels and pursuits. His letters to
Botanists would of course be more important and interesting.

* * * * *

_Suddyah_: _16th September_, 1836.

"I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the cold weather, as on the 1st
of November I hope to accompany ----- to Ava, but in the meantime, I
intend proceeding in search of the tea plant to the Mishmee Hills,
especially about Bramakoond, where it is reported to grow. If I find it
there, I will endeavour to trace it up into the mountains, which form due
east of this an amphitheatre of high rugged peaks."

* * * * *

_November 1st_, 1836.

"I here write from the foot of the 'dreaded' Mishmee Hills. I left
Suddyah on the 15th October, and have already been to Bramakoond, where I
spent three days. I miss you much; you would have been delighted with
the place, which is nothing but rocks and hills. I am recruiting my
resources for a movement into the interior of the hills, in which I shall
follow Wilcox's route, taking with me 15 coolies, for whom I am
collecting grain. I have already made considerable collections, chiefly
however in Botany, with a few stones and birds. I hope before my return
to have seen Coptis teeta in flower, and to have proved that the Beese is
different from that of Nepal. I have already seen numbers of the
Mishmees who are civil people. I have however had great difficulties
with the Chief of the Khond, who though apparently friendly, will, I
fear, do all he can to hinder me from getting to Ghaloom, with the Gham
of which place I wish to have a conference."

* * * * *

_Noa Dihing Mookh_: _January 20th_,
1837.

"I have just returned from the trip to the Lohit much sooner than I
expected. I saw nothing of any consequence except rapids which are
horrid things, and make one quite nervous. I made a beautiful collection
on the Mishmee mountains, of which more anon. Many of the plants are
very interesting. I was however worked very hard, all my people being
sick: I had even to wash my own clothes, but I fear you will think I am
grumbling: so good-bye."

* * * * *

_Loodianah_: _11th December_, 1838.

"I arrived here in 14.5 days, notwithstanding some delays on the road,
and have put up with Cornet Robinson, Acting Political Agent. I am not
pleased with the up-country, and would rather live in Bengal, for I
cannot abide sandy plains and a deficiency of vegetation. Loodianah is a
curious place, very striking to a stranger, the town is large, built
under official direction, and consequently well arranged in comparison
with native towns: there is much trade carried on in it, and it has the
usual bustle of a large town.

"Capt. Wade's house is well situated on a rising ground, and the demesne
is a pretty one. Otherwise the country is ugly enough, and very bare,
yet it is here well wooded, in comparison with what I hear of Ferozepore.
Along the face of the hill near the town, a nullah flows, abounding in
fish, of which more anon. The rock pigeons, or grouse, are very
abundant, and there are two species, one remarkable for the elongated
side-feathers of the tail. Both are beautiful birds, but very difficult
of access. Crows, kites, vultures, adjutants, herons, Drongoles,
sparrows, parrots, etc. remain as before, but most of the less common
birds are different from those to the south; the most European are
genuine starlings; and, to my memory of eight years back, identical with
those of Europe. I have already got thirty to forty species of fish.
Cyprinidae, are by far the most common; one loach, and one of
Macrognathus.

"But as they are all from one water, viz. the neighbouring nullah, and
the Sutledge being five miles off, I shall put them all into bottles, and
send them off before I leave this. The most edible fish, and one of the
most common is the Roh, but it is not the Roh of Bengal, and might well
be called Cyprinus ruber. Burnes has given I think a drawing of it,
which is faithful as to colour. All the forms will be familiar to you,
but I hope there will be some new species.

"I have made further arrangements, and such as will give you a good
insight into the fish of the Sutledge, as to the number of duplicates!--it
is the safest plan for an ignoramus not to discriminate too nicely. I am
to-day to get large specimens of the Kalabans, Rohi, etc. what a splendid
fish the Rohi is, both to look at and to eat. There are two or three
species of the transparent _Chandas_, and three or four Perilamps, six or
eight Siluridae, besides the Gwali, which is too large; of Ophiocephalus
two or three, exclusive of the Sowli, but all ought to be examined, as
there is no relying on native discrimination. There is a curious animal
here burrowing like a mole, but more like a rat: of this I have not yet
got a specimen, although they are very common.

"I commence with a list of the fish of this place. I have only to
mention that several species are confounded under the name Bhoor, all the
Chandras under Chunda Begla, Loaches under Pote, all the Perilamps except
the Chulwa, which may be from its flavour a _Clupeia_, etc. The fact is,
that the fishermen are aware of genera, but not of species, excepting
when the distinctive marks are very strong. The fisherman enumerates
forty species, but I have only twenty-six, I have promised him one rupee
when he completes the list:

Native Name. Family. General size.

1. Khaila, ) ( 6.
2. Bhoor, ) ( mature.
3. Rewa, ) Cyprins, ( mature.
4. Bangun, ) ( 18 inches, called also Kala Bhans.

5. Chund Bigla, mature.
6. Ditto ditto, ditto.
7. Ditto ditto, ditto.
8. Pote, Loach, ditto.
9. Mailoa, Perilamps, ditto.
10. Khurda, ditto Trichopterus?
11. Puttra, Salurida, 20 seers.
12. Kuttoa, Ditto, 6 inches.

13. Ghichila,) Macrognathus( 7 ditto.
14. Bham, ) ( 3 feet.

15. Nunghree,) ( 6 inches.
16. Nowhan, ) Cyprins, ( ditto.
17. Pootea, ) ( 12 inches.

18. Seengh, Silurida, 8 inches.
19. Bugarlea, ditto.
20. Mootunna, nearly mature.
21. Bardul, 6 inches.
22. Chilwa, Perilamp,? mature.
23. Nuwha, Esox, ditto.

24. Gwalee, ) Silurus, ( 2 maunds,
25. Ruttgull,) ( nearly mature.

26. Chundee Clupeia, ditto ditto.

* * * * *

_Candahar_: _May the 2nd_, 1839.

"We have seen three changes in the geological structure of the country.

"The Khojah Omrah was chiefly clay slate, and we are now in another
formation, which no one seems to know; but it must be different as the
outlines of the hills are completely changed. We are now 3,500 feet
above the sea. The climate is good, and would be delightful in a good
house, but in tents the thermometer varies from 60 to 98 degrees and even
105 degrees.

"I have got a decent collection of plants, only amounting however to 650
species. The flora continues quite European. I have some of singular
interest. Compositae, Cruciferae, and Gramineae form the bulk of the
vegetation. All fish are very different from those below the Ghats. I
have five or six species of Cyprinidae. One very inimitable fuscous
loach. There are few birds, and fewer quadrupeds; in fact the country is
at a minimum in both these respects."

* * * * *

_Ghuzni_: _July 25th_, 1839.

"We have been gradually ascending since leaving Candahar, and are here at
an elevation of 7,600 feet. The same features continue. I have as yet
not more than 850 species. The mountains on every side, and indeed the
whole face of the country, is still bare. Mookloor, a district through
which we passed, about seventy miles from this, is well cultivated and
inhabited. There are few birds to be seen, and scarcely any insects, but
there are numerous lizards. The thermometer varies in tents from 60 to
90 degrees."

* * * * *

_Cabul_: _August 11th_, 1839.

"I am encamped close to Baber's tomb, lulled by the sound of falling
water, and cooled with the shade of poplar and sycamore trees, with
abundance of delicious fruit, and altogether quite happy for the nonce. I
have not yet seen the town which is a strange place, buried in gardens:
but nothing can exceed the rich cultivation of the valley in which we are
encamped. Beautiful fields on every side, with streamlets, rich verdure,
poplars, willows, and bold mountain scenery, which contrasts most
favourably with the dreary barren tracts to which we have been
accustomed. I go with the Engineers to Bamean in the course of a few
days, when we shall cross ridges of 12,000 to 13,000 feet high.

"I can only find three kinds of fish in this neighbourhood. I have been
making some drawings, and collecting a few plants which continue to be
entirely European."

* * * * *

_Peshawur_: _November 17th_, 1839.

"I hope some day or other to turn out a real traveller. I am now in
hopes of becoming a decent surveyor, and before many years have passed a
decent meteorologist. I leave the Army here, and shall part with it,
particularly Thomson and Durand of the Engineers, with regret. I start
in a short time to travel up the Indus with little before me but
difficulties, however _a la renommee_. If I can do something
unparalleled in the travelling way I shall be content for a year or two
at least.

"I have obtained some few specimens of fossil shells from the shingly
beds of the Khyber Pass. They seem to be a Spirifer with a very square
base, quite different from the common species of the Bolan Pass, which is
like a large cockle, and of which I have one beautiful specimen. How I
regret not seeing Bukkur, for with a few days' leisure, a number of
fossils might be obtained. The older I grow the less content am I
scientifically: would that I had received a mathematical education. I
was much interested with some quotations from Lyell's Elements in a late
_Calcutta Courier_, especially about the Marine Saurian from the
Gallepagos. What further proof can be wanted of the maritime and insular
nature of the world during the reigns of the Saurian reptiles? What more
conclusive can be expected about the appearance of new species? This
point would at once be settled if the formation of these islands can be
proved not to have been contemporaneous with the Continents. Then the
animal nature of chalk!

"I am doing nothing in botany, but learning Persian, and the use of the
theodolite, with nothing but difficulties to look at all around. I begin
to feel of such importance, (do not think me conceited in relation to my
collections and information on geographical botany,) that I am not
overpleased with the idea of facing dangers alone: however I suppose
every thing is as usual exaggerated."

* * * * *

_Bamean_: _August 3rd_, 1840.

"Yesterday I crossed the Hindoo-koosh by my former route, and this
morning while out, i.e. trout fishing, was most agreeably interrupted by
the post. The fishing was ended forthwith. Indeed the sun in this
country even at elevations of 12,000 feet is very hot, and has excoriated
my hands, beautifully white as they were after my sickness, but not
before I had caught 3 barbels, evidently different from those of the
other side of the range. I caught some trout yesterday evening, it is a
most beautiful fish, I was particularly struck with the size of the eye,
its prominence, and expressive pupil, in opposition to the sluggishness
of the eyes of carps.

"It is strange that Botany has always been the most favoured of the
natural sciences, it is strange that in spite of what all do say it is
the least advanced of any. How can I reconcile my own splendid
opportunities with those of more deserving naturalists in other branches?
and I would willingly share them on the principle of common fairness with
others, who I know would turn them to a better account. Oreinus takes
the worm greedily; in the Helmund, 11,000 feet above the sea, it is
abundant. It is the same species I think as that in the Cabul river; but
in the Cabul river, Barbus is the predominant fish: in the Helmund it is
the reverse. How can one account for the small elevation at which fish
are found in the Himalayan? I cannot imagine it is owing as some think
to the relative impetuosity of the rivers, which after all is only an
assumption.

"This Bamean valley is the strangest place imaginable, its barrenness and
the variegated colours of the rocks convey the idea of its volcanic
origin, and give it a look as if it had come out of the furnace. I
cannot make out where the stones so universally found all over the slopes
of the mountains, came from, for very generally they seem water-worn. I
find no great peculiarity in the flora of this side of the range, except
an abundance of odd-looking Chenopodiaceous plants, probably resulting
from the saline saturation of the soil. There is a very singular spring
on the other side of the range, about 11,000 feet above the sea: the
water very clear, with no remarkable taste, but every thing around is
covered with a deposit of a highly ferruginous powder. I shall write
next from the fossil locality, which is said to be about forty miles from
this. I am as stout as ever, but by no means so strong."

* * * * *

_Bamean_: _August 21st_, 1840.

"I am now out of the region of trees, excepting a poplar, of which I will
send you a bit, as the same tree grows in much lower places. The want of
rings in wood is by no means unusual in tropical vegetation. For the
production of rings, some annual check to vegetation is required: their
absence is particularly frequent in climbers. The walnut will not be a
good instance, because even if you can get it from Java, it is a tree
that requires cold, and must consequently be found at considerable
altitudes. Your instances must be taken from subjects that can bear a
great range of climate: you have some in the apricot, vine, etc. I will
not fail in sending you what you want from Cabul, and also from Peshawur,
in which almost the extremes of temperature can be contrasted. I will
also get the woods of apricots, cherries, etc., at the highest elevations
on my road back, as I hope to pass through the grand fruit country of
Affghanistan. No Jungermannias are obtainable in this part, nor anywhere
indeed, except towards the true Himalayas. I do not remember having seen
the pomegranate growing at Cabul: the place is too cold for it. I think
however, I can get some from Khujjah, where snow lies in winter. I leave
for the Provinces early in October, and shall travel 30 miles a day. I
want to get to Seharunpore, 15 or 20 days in advance of my time, as I
must run up to Mussoorie and fish in the Dhoon. I shall be in Calcutta
in all February."

* * * *

_Cabul_: _September 26th_, 1840.

"I despatch to-morrow the first of the bits of wood, the duplicates will
be sent on the 28th or 29th: on this latter day I leave for Peshawur, and
right glad am I that the time has come at last. I will send you the same
woods from Peshawur, but shall scarcely be able to send you pomegranate
from any thing like a cold place.

"On receiving your specimens of vine, the following question occurred to
me. If wood is a deposit from the leaves or fibres sent down from the
leaves, how is the presence of wood to be accounted for in tendrils,
which have no leaves, but yet which are evidently branches? The theory
of the formation of wood, which considers it as above, is deemed
ingenious, but it will not I think be found to be true. The bark
evidently has a great deal to say to the matter.

"I shall be most rejoiced at a remote prospect of again setting to work.
I take no interest now in the vegetation of this country. I hope to be
at Loodianah _early_ in November; my present intention is to run up to
Simla, thence to Mussoorie, and descend on Seharunpore. If I do this, I
shall only leave one point unfinished, and that is the Hindoo-koosh
Proper, where however I shall have the advantage of Major Sanders of the
Engineers, who will pick up a few plants for me. I wish much to take
notes of the vegetation about Simla and Mussoorie, this I can do at a bad
season. I shall afterwards be able to compare the Himalayan chain at
very distant points."

* * * * *

_Serampore_, -- 1841.

"I will send you to-morrow dissections of Santalum if I can get a small
bottle for them: under .5 inch lens you can easily open the pistillum of
Santalum having previously removed the perianth: it is a concial body;
you must take care to get it out entire, especially at the base, then
place it in water, and dissect off the ovula of which there are three or
four, as per sketch. I shall not say what I see, as I want to have your
original opinion unbiassed, etc.; but whenever you see the tubes with
filaments adhering to their apices, pray mark attentively what takes
place, both at the point and at the place where the tube leaves the
ovulum; your matchless 1/1500 would do the thing. Try iodine with all
such, after having examined them in water.

"Should you find any difficulty in dissecting away the ovula, light
pressure under glass will relieve you. I shall be very anxious to know
what your opinion is, particularly with regard to the tubes and all
adhering filaments; the question now occupying botanists, being this, is
the embryo derived directly from the boyau or is it derived from some
parts of the ovulum?

"I hope you can understand these sketches."

* * * * *

_Peshawur_: _13th December_, 1839.

"What a shame it is that botanists should know nothing whatever of the
formation and structure of wood! They look at a section of a piece of
oak, and imagine they have discovered the secret, and write volumes on
this imagination, yet they have been told over and over again, that
nothing is to be learnt on such subjects without beginning at the
commencement, which they are too idle to do. To name an abominable
Aster, is among them of much higher importance than to discover the cause
of the growth of wood. Medullary rays are most difficult, because they
are very often deficient particularly in climbers. I am horridly idle,
and yet what can I do without books; yet with regard to books, the more
originality we possess, the less we require them? There is nothing to be
got here except a few marsh plants coming into flower. One beautiful
Chara, which might disclose the secret, had I good glasses, it is a most
graceful pellucid form, an undescribed duckweed, a floating
Marchantiaceae. Would that I was settled with a Ross on one hand, and a
Strongstein on the other, around my collections with good health and good
spirits. Tell ---- I have in view the division of the vegetable kingdom
analagous to radiata, they include all the Marchantiaceae, and are, to
all intents and purposes, Vegetable Radiata."

* * * * *

_Pushut_, _1st march beyond Kooner_:
_January 29th_, 1840.

"This will be a letter of odds and ends, you know I was to return to
Jallalabad; well I reached that place, but left the encampment and
crossed the river, where an advance road making partly for the Kooner
expedition were employed, and having originally determined on going to
Kooner, I accompanied them two marches, when they were overtaken by the
army, to avoid which, I halted one day, and on the next proceeded onwards
by the north bank of the river, thus saving all the fords of this horrid
river. I should call it beautiful at any other season. The road was
bad, and the last one and a half mile into camp most difficult, the path
winding round and over spurs of sharp limestone rocks which must have had
abundance of silex in them they were so very hard. At the very worst
part, my headman being in front, all of a sudden I heard three shots in
quick succession with the usual hallooing, and then I was called on in
advance, meeting my headman wounded: he has lost the two fore-fingers of
his right hand. All I saw was three men scrambling up the face of the
hill, on whom I opened a fire as soon as my guns came up, and had the
pleasure of hitting one on the shield.

"Such a scene ensued! for when there are three or four on such occasions
we may reasonably expect thirty or forty, and my object was to get out of
the bad road, and so be close to camp. Some of, or rather all, my people
became dismayed, I had therefore to cheer, to point my double barrels,
and in fact to enact a whole legion. One fellow tried to shoot me but
his powder proved faithful, the others were wounded: however they kept in
sight, and to make matters worse, in one place within twenty yards, six
or seven of my loads were thrown; evening drawing on, and prospects
disgusting, when at last having passed over one bad part and got down
into a ravine, a number of people were seen closing down on us, but my
man had run off to camp, and by shouts succeeded in calling five or six
_sepahis_, part of the rear-guard, to our relief, and so we escaped bag
and baggage, the rascals making off when the red coats appeared. I was
sick at heart at the loss of poor Abdool Rozak's fingers: he is an Arab
with an English heart, bearing his loss most manfully, and when his
fingers were removed expressed anxiety alone about me and my _Sundoogs_
(collections). Well then, where should I have been had I been assailed
as Abdool Rozak was, I should have been unprepared, and if riding, my
mare would certainly have jumped into the river beneath. Thomson {0a}
said when he left me, G---, you are rash and Abdool Rozak is rash, take
care or you will get into trouble. My moving about without a guard was
imprudent, and I now return to Jallalabad to get one, or if not
successful to wait there until the spring and its floral excitements call
me out: what I dislike is danger without any recompense, not a flower is
to be had; with excitement it is nothing. I have now had two escapes,
one from the buffalo in Assam, and this, which is a greater one, because
had not the army been delayed by accident at the ford, it would have been
eight or ten miles in advance, and consequently there would have been no
rear-guard at hand.

"The country is disturbed, and one can only stir out in the valley itself
close to camp, which is the more tantalizing as the mountains are
accessible, and covered with forest. Our halt here should put us in
possession of much information respecting these forests. As it is, I
shall leave probably as wise as I came, except in having ascertained that
the change from the well-wooded Himalaya mountains to those of the Hindoo-
koosh, without even a shrub five feet high, takes place to the east of
this. My employment is surveying and collecting data for ascertaining
the heights of the hills around. But wherever I turn, the question
suggests itself, what business have I here collecting plants, with so
many in Calcutta demanding attention? How I am living! alone, without a
table, chair, wine, or spirits, with a miserable beard, and in native
clothes! but one thus saves much time; how unfortunate that mine now is
not worth saving!

"I have been reading Swainson's volumes in Lardner's Cyclopaedia, in
which there is a little to which severe critics may object, but a vast
deal more that is beautifully sound. I am quite certain I never
appreciated them before. How wonderful that no one before Macleay and
Swainson thought that living beings were created on one plan. I have
imbibed all the important parts with the hope of bringing them to bear on
Botany, which is in a shameful state. One talks of the typical nature of
polypetalous or monopetalous plants; another ridicules the idea, because
as he wisely says, some polypetalous plants are monopetalous, and vice
versa!! he objects, in fact to what constitutes the great value of a
character, _its mode of variation_. All Swainson's propositions
appear to me philosophical and highly probable, but none of the present
generation have eyes young enough to bear such a flood of light as he has
thrown upon them. There are faults I acknowledge, but a man who writes
for money does not always write for fame; rapid writing and much more
rapid publishing is a vast evil, but one which is too often unavoidable.
I have four or five drawings of fish, one of the spotted carnivorous
carp, the most carnivorous type of all except Opsarion, and perhaps a new
subgenus; {0b} one of the Sir-i-Chushme and Khyber _Oreinus_, and a
Perilamp with two long cirrhi on the upper lip. I intend in my travels
now I am alone, to stop at every fertile place. I am ascertaining the
limit of the inferior snow in these latitudes, which I fancy will be
3,500 feet. Is it not curious that here 1,000 feet above Jallalabad we
have had no snow, while at Jallalabad there has been abundance. I
attribute it to the narrowness of the valley at this place, and to the
forest. When I glance at the subject of botanical geography, how
astounding appears our ignorance! we have no data, except to determine
the mere temperature and amount of rain yet men will persist in the rage
for imperfect description of undescribed species, and pay no attention to
what is one of the most important agents in preserving things as they are
in our planet,--i.e. vegetation. On this point Swainson is less happy
than on others when he ascribes such importance to temperature, and
points out the fact that countries in the same latitudes, and having the
same temperatures, produce different animals."

* * * * *

_Cabul_, _September 25th_, 1839.

"I am just on the eve of re-entering Cabul from a visit to Bamean, a
singular place on the other side of the Hindoo-koosh, celebrated for its
idols and caves. It has amply repaid a march of 106 miles and back
again. I never saw a more singular place, and never enjoyed myself more:
we crossed several high ridges between 11 and 13,000 feet, but so poor is
the flora that I have only added 200 species to my catalogue, now
amounting to 1200 species instead of 2,400 as I fully expected. But I
must say I was as much pleased at the acquisition of a genuine _Salmo_ in
the Bamean river (which is a tributary of the Oxus,) as at any thing.

"Unfortunately we were so hurried, that I had only one afternoon and that
an unfavourable one, for indulging in my fishing propensities: the chief
fish seems to come very near the English trout, and so far as I can
judge, is not found on this side the Himalaya. The other fish of these
rivers are a fine Schizothorax or Oreinus, allied to the _Adoee_, a flat-
headed Siluroid, a loach, and a small Cyprinus. This is a singular
country, quite unlike any thing I have seen, and as distinct from the
Himalaya in its vegetation, etc. as can well be imagined. Generally it
is very barren, and after travelling over so much of the country I have
yet seen only three parts of it decently cultivated. It is reported to
be rich in minerals.

"But it will never bear comparison with Hindoostan. It is however
capable of much improvement. It consists of a succession of barren
valleys, divided from each other by barren ridges, and is generally
deficient in the great fertilizer of all things--water. There is
scarcely an indigenous tree in the whole country, and generally very few
cultivated ones, except about Cabul, although they have poplars and
willows well suited to the climate. It has been subjected to so much
misrule that the natives have become indifferent to its improvement, (if
they ever felt alive to any such interest.) The Zoology is very poor,
quite at zero. There is a species of Ibex, an _Ovis_, and a _Capra_,
which from the frequency of their heads and horns about sacred places and
gateways of towns, must be common; but I have never seen more than a
portion of one fresh specimen of the sheep. Furs are brought from the
Hindoo-koosh, but are all too mutilated to be of any use, except to a
Zoologist with antiquarian eyes: one Jerboa. Hares are rather common in
some parts, and about here there is a Lagomys. Of birds there are but
few, but as the vegetation is chiefly vernal, these creatures may perhaps
be abundant. The game birds are quail, three species of partridge, a
huge Ptarmigan? Pterocles of Loodianah. The fauna is richest in Saurian
reptiles, and of these one might make a very good collection. I have
only seen two snakes, and both are I believe lost."

* * * * *

_Mirzapore_: _April 26th_, 1841.

"Request --- to refrain from abusing compound microscopes. Why should
not compound and simple microscopes each have their merits? Valentine,
who is a great authority, and an unrivalled dissector, says, the simple
lens must be suspended. I only wish I could dissect with a compound
microscope: what things might not one get access to. The simple lens is
quite useless with opaque objects; it only does for transmitted light.
Now dissections of opaque objects have been too much neglected. How odd
it is that all improvements are ridiculed at first.

"I enclose a bit of Sphagnam, a curious moss, with curious incomplete
spiral cells in the leaves. I dare say it will bear preservation in
Canada balsam. I have received a new microscope, a queer-looking thing,
very portable; one object glass of a quarter inch focus, by Ross; two eye-
pieces magnifying linearly 200 to 300 times. I have put it up, but I am
not well enough to decide on its merits. Now that I have arranged all my
things, I am literally frightened at the work I have to do.

"I am quite annoyed at the idea that German artists make better
microscopes than English. I was aware that the lenses were better, but
otherwise I imagined that any comparison would be vastly in our favour. I
am curious to know the price, and where to apply for one, as your account
makes me quite ashamed of mine. Who knows what a fine penetrating power
of 1100 may not disclose. I am very much pleased with your idea of
anointing cuts with nitrate of silver; this hint I will bear in mind.

"I enclose the first list of fish, No. 2, not that it is of much
use.--What nonsense it is to collect without knowledge.

No. Native Name. Family. REMARKS.

1 Kuggur, Siluridae.
2 Soonnee, Cyprinidae, Back greenish,
otherwise pearly-white.
3 Dhurra, Cyprinidae, Fins reddish, red spot
on opercule, back
greenish-brown.
4 Moogullee, " Perilampoid, Diaphanous, silvery,
head reddish.
5 Peedur, " " Like the preceding.
6 Moorr, " " Ditto ditto.
7 Bhanghun, " " Ditto ditto.
8 Kundura, " Perilampus, Back greenish,
otherwise quite
silvery.
9 Pullee, " " Same as 4,5,6,7.
10 Goolla Ciprinidae.
11 Khunnuree, _Percidae_, Chanda
of Buchanan, Diaphanous.
12 Sur-ri-rha, Cyprinidae Perilamp, Silvery-green on back.
13 Gundhan, " Perilampoid, Same colours.
14 Mhukk, " " Ditto ditto.
15 Ghurr, " " Ditto ditto.
16 Dhoalee, Ophiocephalus, Colour brown, with
usual marks and bars.
17 Ahaiha, Siluridae, Diaphanous, 3-5
irregular longish
stripes.
18 Mhullee, Silurus, Silvery-blueish.
19 Mhoarree, Cyprinidae, Yellowish-green, fins
reddish. 5 seers.
20 Dhumpurra, " Brownish-green, 6
seers.
21 Pho-eikee, " Perilampoid.
22 Putollee, Cyprinidae, Back and sides
light-green.
23 Poapree, " Back greenish-brown,
sides greenish.
24 Shingra, Siluridae, No stripes, lightly
tinged with brown.
25 Dhimmurr, Silurus.
26 Ghoa-gha, " Back greenish,
punctulate, head
reddish.
27 Mokkhurr, Opiocephalus.
28 Dhujjha, "
29 Thailla, Cyprinidae, 5 to 6 seers.
30 Mhorakkee, " Much like 19.
31 Singarhee, " Much like 4, 5, 6, 7.
32 Logurr, Siluridae, 3 to 4 faint punctulate
longish lines.
33 Ghoje, Not noted.
34 Tupree, "
37 Ghunghutt, Perilampus.
38 Soourr, Siluridae, Diaphanous. Faint
punctulate lines.
39 Soonaree, Cyprinidae.
40 Phunnee, " Perilampoid.
41 Kutchoo, " Much like the
preceding.
42 Saisurr, " Ditto ditto.
43 Coommee, " Much like no. 4.
44 Saluree, " Ditto ditto.
45 Shumsheer, " So called because of
its voracity,
(Shumsheer a sabre.)
46 Ghora, " Same as Soonee.
47 Saboan, " Same as the preceding.
48 Bhambhun, Cyprinidae, Same as Dhurra.

All the above from the Indus, at Shikarpore.

No. Family. River. REMARKS.

49 Cyprinidae, Nari, Small size, colour-silvery,
except upper back, which is
bluish-green.
50 Siluridae, Mysore.
51 Ophiocephalus, "
52 " "
53 Cyprinidae, " Same as 49.
54 " Systomus. " A beautiful fish, bright green
back, otherwise bright
orange-red, fins stained with
black colours; fugacious.
55 Cyprinidae, "
56 " Systomus, " Back greenish, opercle orange
spotted, one black spot near
tail.
57 Percida Chamda "
58 Perilampoid, "
Water of both these rivers, quiescent: bunded up.
59 Cyprinoid, Dadur.
60 " " Same as 54.
61 " Systomus, " Same as 56.
63 Cyprinoid, "
64 " "
65 " "
66 " " Same as 59.
67 Cobites, "
68 Cyprinoid, Bolan, Bluish-green, blue bars and
dots. Takes the fly.
69 Barbus? " Intestines very long, much like
Naipoora.
70 Gonorhynchus? "
71 " " Probably a small specimen of
69.
72 Cyprinoid, "
73 " Gonorhyncus, Gurmab, Same as 70?
74 " "
75 Cyprinoid, " Closely allied to the Mahaseer.
76 Ditto Mahaseer, " Beautiful fish with
yellow-brown back, golden
sides. Takes fly greedily.
77 " Gonorhynchoid, "
78 " "
79 Silurida, " In Bolan river, deep still
water.
80 Cyprinoid, " In small streams.
81 Macrognathus, " Tenacious of life, belly puffy,
common throughout; a good deal
like a Gudgeon.
82 Loach, Quettah.
83 Cyprinoides, " A beautiful silvery-leaden
backed fish, with a streak of
bright-red along the side.
Common, very like the
preceding: of these Quettah
fish No. 83 is the most common,
82 the least so.
84 Cyprinus, curious, "
not being a
mountainous form.
86 " "
87 Cyprinoides, Lora, Same mountain form,
Gonorhynchoid.
88 " "
89 Loach, " Ditto ditto ditto.
90 " " Perhaps same as the preceding.
91 Cyprinoides, "
92 " " Like the Adoee.
93 " " Mountain form.
94 " " Large size for the genus.
95 " " _Note_.--Probable number of
species 47, deducting those
supposed not different
96 Cyprinoid, Urghundab.
97 Loach, "
98 Siluridae, "
"I subjoin a list given me by a fisherman at Shikarpore, with his divisions into large and small:--
Large. Small.

Dhumpurra, Ghunghut.
Buree Phookee, Pedir.
Buree Thaillee, Soonnee.
Mhoarrhee, Phokee.
Moukkur, Mogullee.
Gundhan, Dhimmur.
Singaree, Ghoagar.
* Pulla, Khuggur.
Seenra.
Mhorr.
Bhangun.
Ghurr.
Soourr.
Morakee.
Tupree.
Ghogee.
Phopree.
Thaillee.
* Pulla.
Punnotee.
Dhaiee.
Ghogura.

(I send this list as all the specimens are not lost, and some are among
the plants. Most of the species are, I think, distinct, and when they
have appeared to me not to be so, I have generally noted it on the spot.

The mountain forms are very distinct, the mouth being under the snout, or
head, the intestines long, peritoneum covered with a black pigment. These
forms commence at Dadur, 800 feet above the sea: this stream abounds in
rapids.

Gurmab is 1,100 feet. Quettah, 5,600 feet. Lora river, 3,600 feet.
Urghundab, 3,600 feet.

These lists may be of some small use compared with Burnes's collection.
To a certain extent they may be useful as showing the preponderance, etc.
of certain forms. You may rely on my distinctions between Cyprinidae,
Siluridae, and Percidae.)

"To-morrow I will send the other list of specimens No. 3, which will I
hope reach you; of all the fish in these parts, the Sir-i-Chushme and
Cabul river _Oreinus_ travels farthest up. I have caught it at nearly
11,000 feet in the Helmund river. Then come loaches, and the beautiful
trout-like Opsarion; other Cyprinidae ascend 2,000 or 3,000 feet, the
Mahaseer scarcely more. Above that, come the genuine mountain forms.

No. Family. Locality. REMARKS.

1 Cyprinidae, Streams from A brown fish, with irregular
Oreinus? So-faid-koh, black spots.

2 Cyprinidae, "

3 " " A sombre looking Gudgeon-like
fish, back blackish, sides
yellowish, punctulate with
groups of blackish spots.

4 Loach, " Colours and patches obscure.

5 Perilamp, Jallalabad river, Usual silvery-bluish hues.

6 Cyprinidae,moun-
tain form,
Schizothorax.

7 Cyprinidae, _Poo_- " Colours obscure, scales
_teoides_, minute, dorsal spine very
strong.

8 Cyprinidae, " A stout fish, of obscure
colours, each scale with a
transverse more or less
wavy red line (like the
Nepoora of Assam), mouth
nepooroid, intestines very
long, very thin, very
frangible, packed in longish
folds, Peritoneum covered
with a black pigment. Herbiv.

9 Cyprinidae. Peri- " Back metallic bluish-brown,
lampoid, otherwise silvery.

10 Cyprinoid, "

11 " Schizo- "
thorax,

12 " " " Back greenish, fins reddish,
snout elongated.

13 " " " Colours brownish, tinged with
yellow; perhaps it is the
same as the Helmund and Cabul
species: intestines packed in
a few folds, moderately long,
4.5 inches longer than body:
diameter of body 2 inches.
Peritoneum with the black
pigment _Carneo-herbivorous_.

14 Cyprinoid, "

15 Ophiocephalus, Jheels, etc, Bus- Colour rather a rich brown,
soollah, pectoral fins barred with
chesnut.

16 Cyprinoid like a " Back brownish: this colour
Bleak, Schizo- limited to a narrowish line,
thorax, otherwise entirely pearly.
Peritoneum covered with black
pigment. Intestines rather
large, in 3 or 4 folds.

17 Cyprinoid. A nar- " A very pretty species,
row deep fish. brownish back, marked faintly
Perilamp. An both longitudinally and
Opsarion? transversely with iridescent
patches, abdominal fins
reddish.

18 Cyprinoid, Jheels, etc, Bus- A handsome species allied to
soollah, very the Mahaseer; back black,
common, otherwise yellowish, fins
tinged with red, scales as it
were bordered with
dusky-black. Intestines
short.

19 " " An oval, rather thick fish,
of obscure colours.

20 " Schizo- " An elegant species, back
thorax. obscurely brown, otherwise
pearly. Peritoneum black,
covered with pigment.
Intestines very long and
narrow.

21 Racoma nobilis{0c} Lalpoor, Cabul A stout fish, with a large
river, head, not unlike a trout at
first sight Sides bluish
silvery grey, back obscurely
brown, remarkable for
frequent irregular
well-defined black spots,
faintest in small specimens,
fins tinged with reddish.
Head flat at top, with some
spots. Peritoneum with black
pigment. Intestines of large
size, loaded with fat, short,
not twice the length of the
abdomen, cavity loaded with
fat. As usual no caeca. A
remarkable type: aspectu
omnino carnivoris.

22 Loach, Khyber range A very small and slender
stream, from species, light brown,
Sir-i-Chushme speckled and barred with
spring, temper, brown, attracted
75 degrees, from immediately by scraping up
limestone rocks. the bed of the outlet of the
spring.

23 Cyprinid, Orei- Same place, but Back brown, with some
noides, occurs down to iridescent hues, sides
Khyber ghat yellowish brown, dark spots
stream. confined to back and sides,
small but distinct; fins
tinged with reddish.
Peritoneum loaded with
black pigment. Intestines in
short loops across abdomen of
intermediate size, as to
length and diameter. Air
bladder small; very common.
Swarm in deepish pools under
limestone rocks, takes bait,
i.e. offal and worms with
great avidity. Like many
other species, it is asserted
to be the English trout: it
rises to the surface.

24 Loach, Same place com- Shape subcylindrical, pale
mon, greenish-brown, with very
broad bars of brown, fins
spotted with black,
otherwise fuscescent; at root
of tail a deep black bar.
Head depressed, in old
specimens broad, closely
spotted with black, snout
attenuated, apex with cirrhi;
upper jaw in the centre with
a bony process not unlike an
incisor tooth

25 Cyprinid, Opsa- " A beautiful trout-like fish,
rion back bluish-black, triangular
bars of azure blackish,
ending in a point towards
glandular line, fins tinged
with orange, tail tipped with
black. Peritoneum spotted
slightly with black.

26 " Opsarion, " Possibly young specimens of
preceding, colours same but
fainter."

* * * * *

_Memorandum on return from Afghanistan_.

"As I considered on my arrival at Peshawur in December 1839, that a great
deal remained to be done, I obtained permission to remain another season
in Affghanistan. I immediately mentioned my wishes of travelling to
General Avitabili, who strongly advised me not to attempt leaving
Peshawur in any novel direction, as the whole of his district was much
disaffected. Soon afterwards I heard of an expedition being on the point
of leaving Jallalabad for Kooner, and I determined on joining it. I re-
traversed the Khybur Pass alone, and arrived at Jallalabad just in time
to go in the advance. I was present at Pushut, 18th January 1840; and on
the return of the force I remained behind with Captain Macgregor. In
February 1840 I accompanied Captain Macgregor to Chugur-Serai, and thence
to Otipore or Chugur-Serai-Balu on the immediate frontier of Kaffiristan,
and through his influence I was enabled to remain there, and to increase
my materials in an extremely interesting direction. I remained about
Otipore for some weeks, making arrangements for penetrating into
Kaffiristan and little Cashgur, and in daily expectation of being joined
by the late Capt. E. Connolly; all my plans, which first seemed to
promise success, were completely frustrated by the disturbances which
broke out in Bajore, consequent on Meer Alum Khan's absence at
Jallalabad. Capt. Connolly barely escaped with his life from the hands
of the Momauds. Meer Alum Khan found on his return towards his
government that he could not leave Chugur-Serai, and at last,
circumstances threatened so much around Otipore and Chugur-Serai, that
Meer Alum Khan insisted on my leaving Otipore and on returning with him
to Jallalabad. I did not leave a moment too soon, for shortly after,
Syud Hoshin turned Otipore by crossing the hills to the north of Deogul,
and very soon possessed himself of Otipore. Meer Alum and I reached
Jallalabad in safety, having been attacked once on the road.

"I remained at Jallalabad a few days, and was driven thence to Khaggah by
the necessity of obtaining medical aid. I reached Khaggah in a high
fever, and was confined to my bed for six weeks: during my severe
illness, I experienced the greatest kindness and attention from Dr.
Thomson and Dr. Andrew Paton, of the H. C. European Regt.

"Early in July I proceeded to Cabul for change of air, and as soon as I
recovered a little strength, started to join Lieut. Sturly, who was
surveying on the Toorkistan frontier. I met that Officer at Syghan the
day he left to prosecute his surveys, which had been interrupted by the
Kamard disturbances: he was recalled to Syghan, in consequence of heavier
and more serious disturbance.

"I returned to Cabul, as I found it impossible to proceed beyond Syghan,
and then waited with impatience for a season that would enable me to
cross the Punjab without great risk to my still debilitated constitution.

"My establishment of collectors consisted of unintelligent Affghans, who
were particularly prone to abrupt abscondings, and my supplies of
materials and carriage very limited.

"The botanical collection is as extensive as could be expected from the
nature of the country and the climate. It is in excellent order,
consisting of about 1500 species, and a great number of duplicates. This
collection has been formed on the principles which have guided me on
former travels. Those principles I conceive to require the collection of
every form in numbers, and in various localities, so that the
geographical limits of each may be estimated, and the examination be
open. They also require information as to habitat, locality, climate,
whether the plants are gregarious or not, and whether they contribute to
giving peculiar features to the country. I do not hesitate to say that
this collection contains almost all the plants that existed in flower or
fruit along the line of march of the army between Cabul and Syghan, about
Chugur-Serai, Otipore, and Pushut, and in the neighbourhood of Khaggah.

"The extent over which it was formed is about 1,600 miles, and on the
variety of geographical position a considerable part of its value
depends. If the plants between Cabul and Peshawur are less rich, as my
journeys between those cities always occurred at unfavourable seasons,
the deficiency has been lessened by my friend Dr. Ritchie.

"The Ornithological portion of the collection, consists of about 350
specimens, is in good order, and contains many objects of interest,
valuable for throwing some light on the geographical distribution of
birds.

"To the fish of the various tracts I paid considerable attention, but
owing to the difficulties of travelling and of climate, the collection
has suffered severely. At Shikarpore I made an extensive collection of
the fish of the Indus. I had collected most of the fish of the river, of
the Bolan Pass, of the streams of Quettah, and of the Urghundab, near
Candahar, unfortunately I relied too much on the preservative powers of
alcohol. Subsequently I took the additional precaution of preserving
skins separately; and it is to these which amount to about 150 specimens,
that the collections are chiefly limited. The collections contain the
fish of the Cabul river, between its source near Sir-i-Chushme, and
Peshawur, of the Helmund at an altitude of 11,500 feet, of the Bamean
river, and of the Chenab, Ravee, and Sutledge.

"This collection is particularly interesting, as showing that while the
plants, quadrupeds, and birds of the southern and northern declivities of
the Kohi-Baba, the continuation of the Hindoo-koosh, are much alike, yet
that a total difference exists in their fish.

"Lord Keane, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, left me in complete possession of
my own time, a great kindness due no doubt to the considerate
instructions of Lord Auckland, but for which I was not the less grateful.

"I always found Sir Alexander Burnes very considerate and very willing to
forward my views, and put me in possession of information. The late Dr.
Lord also showed himself anxious to assist me in my duties, and very
kindly asked me to join the Mission to Toorkistan, so suddenly put an end
to by a suspected outbreak in Kohistan.

"To Captain Macgregor I was under great obligations during the whole time
I continued in his district. Through his influence I was enabled to
remain at the outer borders of Kaffiristan; and that deservedly warm
respect which he was held in by all the chiefs, would, I am confident,
have gained me access into Kaffiristan, and towards Cashgur, at any less
unsettled period. I have seen Captain Macgregor in the closet and in the
field, and I cannot sufficiently express the respect with which I have
had cause to regard him in both situations.

"Captain Sanders, of the Bengal Engineers, was always eager to swell my
stock of materials, and during periods of occasional indisposition, I
relied almost entirely on him. Captain Sanders had also made for me a
collection of plants between Candahar and Herat, which, I regret to say,
was nearly entirely destroyed in crossing one of the rivers on that
route.

"It is to Dr. Ritchie, of the Bombay Medical Service, the companion of
the justly celebrated Major Pottinger, during his return from Herat via
Jhomunna, that the Botanical collections are mostly indebted. Dr.
Ritchie not only placed unreservedly at my disposal a very interesting
collection made on that journey, but also a larger one made between
Peshbolak and Peshawur. Both these are of considerable value, the one
shows that the Affghan forms prevail as far as Herat on both sides of the
Paropamisus, the other shows that Affghanistan, even in its hottest
parts, has a majority of European forms. To the contents of these
collections, notes of the localities are also added, enhancing their
value very considerably. I may be excused for adding, that Dr. Ritchie
is acquainted with route surveying; in this and his knowledge of Botany,
he possesses two valuable requisitions of a traveller.

"Dr. Grant, of the Bombay Medical Service, formerly in Medical charge of
Dr. Lord's Mission, liberally presented me with an excellent series of
specimens from the valley of Syghan.

"While I am beyond measure indebted for Zoological collections, to
Captain Hay, of the European Regiment."

* * * * *

"The following notes addressed to Emanuel Fernandez, plant collector at
Malacca, may perhaps be useful as containing instructions for the
collection and transmission of plants and seeds. They are perhaps worthy
of insertion on other grounds, as an example of the painstaking, and
patient manner in which Mr. Griffith made his wishes known to the persons
employed by him in his pursuits."

* * * * *

_To Emanuel Fernandez_.

"I have received the open box of seeds, and the large case of plants, per
_'Tenasserim_.' The Ebool seeds were coming up, the dried plants are in
good order, and are of very good kinds.

"Before you put in the palms and fruits with other collections, you
should see that they are quite dry, as otherwise they rot and injure the
dried plants. When you send up more fruits, etc. put them into open
rattan baskets, so that they may be aired.

"I send a list of palms and _rotans_ wanted very much, and two more
glazed cases for seeds: water the earth inside a day before closing the
boxes and sending them off to Singapore. Whenever you get any good
seeds, dry them, and put them in a letter, directed to me. Seeds spoil
by being kept, particularly if kept among wet fruits and dried plants.

"If you can get flower-pots in Malacca buy two or three dozen, and
whenever you get seeds sow them in a pot, and keep them, until you have
enough pots filled to occupy one of the cases, then put mould between the
pots, and sow more seeds in this mould, fasten the lid down and send off
the box to Singapore."

* * * * *

_May 30th_, 1843.

"The cases of plants, etc. have arrived: the fresh plants were nearly all
dead.

"You planted them very well, and cleverly, but some how or other the lids
of the boxes were nailed down, and so the plants died; because plants
will not live without light.

"Some of the Ebool seeds have sprouted, one Lanjoot arrived alive, and
also the Pakoo Galowe.

"I will send soon two glazed cases, in which you may put plants as
before, and seeds of palms, or any good plants: sow them in the same
manner, and three or four days before the cases are despatched water the
earth and plants moderately; then screw down the lid, when the plants, if
they have rooted in the earth, will not die, because the glass admits
light to them. But to be sure of the plants having rooted, you must keep
the cases with you for three weeks, and if any plants are sickly, take
them out and put in others.

"I send a list: when your next despatch arrives, I will increase your
pay. If you send plenty of seeds, etc. often, that is once a month or
six weeks, I will keep you in my service even if I do not come back to
Malacca.

"I also send a box with a large bottle in it of spirits of wine, this is
for monkey cups (Nepenthes). Take the finest ones you can get of all
sorts, and put them in the bottle, leaves and all, do not squeeze them
into the bottle, then send it to me."

* * * * *

"I send two empty glazed cases for plants: when these reach you, fill
them with moist earth and plant in them ripe fresh seeds of the following
palms * * * You need not wait until you have obtained all, but such only
as you can get at once; but remember when you have got ripe seeds of any
kind to sow them in the case. Take care the earth is not too wet. The
seeds you sent, sown in an open box, came up, and we have now six or
seven live Ebools, etc.

"Send me up some ripe fruits and seeds of the Epoo, those you sent were
not ripe. If you can get any ripe ones, also sow some with the palm
seeds."

* * * * *

_Calcutta_: _March 26th_, 1844.

"When you prepare Rotangs do not cut off the stalk of the leaf close to
the stem, but six inches from it, and do not cut off the thorns, but tie
all up in mats or gunny bags: at the same time send the leaves of each
dried in paper like other plants and flowers, all with names written
plainly in English and Malay.

"Send live plants according as you receive boxes for them."

* * * * *

"Whenever you find ripe fruits or seeds, dry them in the sun, and then
send them to the Post Office for despatch in paper bags. Sow palm seeds
in open boxes as you did before, the Ebool having come up."

* * * * *

_January_ 14_th_, 1844.

"The plants dried and living have been received, and do you great credit.
The live plants particularly are in excellent order. I have sent two
more cases, when they reach you, fill them as you have done before, and
despatch them to me. I send some cards on which you can write the names
plainly, and tie them on the specimens. I will also send you a pocket
English Dictionary, and make you a present of the English and Portuguese
one."

PRIVATE JOURNALS OF WM. GRIFFITH, F.L.S.

CHAPTER I.

_When proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the_
_Examination of the Tea Plant_.

_September_, _1835_.--We arrived at Pubna on the 9th of September, and
left it on the following morning, pursuing the course of the Pubna
"Karee," which is exceedingly tortuous and of about an average width of
100 yards. On the evening of the 10th, we halted in the same river near
its termination. This morning we reached the "Beera," into which the
Pubna Karee enters, and which at the mouth presents a vast expanse of
water. Among the jheels which occur on every side, we noticed in
abundance the _Tamarix dioica_. About noon we entered a narrow river,
and in the evening a very narrow creek in which in two places we
experienced a great difficulty in getting the boats along. We noticed
_Alpinia allughas_, _Nymphaea pubescens_, _Oxystelma esculentum_,
_Apluda aristata_, in abundance. Up to this period the two most
conspicuous grasses continue to be _Saccharum spontaneum_, and
_Andropogon muricatus_.

_Sunday_, _13th_.--Arrived at Shiraz-gunge, about half-past 8 A.M., from
which place the people say Jumalpore is a three days' journey. The
country through which we proceeded after leaving Shiraz-gunge is nothing
but a net-work of rivers, several of vast size, and low islands, occupied
almost exclusively by _Saccharum spontaneum_, and in some places
abounding in _Typha elephantina_, in fruit. We halted at a small
village in the evening, where we procured _Centrostachys aquatica_.

_September 14th_.--Came in sight of distant very elevated land, which
we suppose to be the Kassiya Hills. This morning (15th) the Hills are
very plain, and bear nearly due north. The country through which we
passed yesterday presented no change whatever. _Andropogon muricatus_
has now nearly left us; but the _Saccharum_ reaches to a large size, and
is incredibly abundant. The natives use it for thatching their huts. We
were visited by a heavy squall in the evening.

_16th_.--Strong winds from an easterly direction. About noon we
succeeded in reaching a creek, in which we are completely sheltered.
During our route here, we were employed in examining a new species of
_Crotalaria_, and one of _Mitrasacme_! In pools close to us are
_Damasonium indicum_, _Nymphaea caerulea_, _Myriophyllum_
_tetrandrum_, _Polygonum rivulare_, and a species of _Villarsia_, _V_.
_cristata_.

_19th_.--Left the creek, and arrived at Jumalpore about 2 P.M.; the
cantonment of which occupies the right-hand side of the Burrampooter,
along the bank of which the officers' houses are situated; indeed this is
the only dry line about the place, as immediately inland there are
nothing but jheels and rice fields. Jumalpore is about .75 of a mile
from the junction of the Jenai with the Burrampooter or rather from the
point of exit of the former river.

_24th_.--We left the cantonment about 11 A.M., and proceeded down the
Burrampooter, which is a very uninteresting river, and appears more like
a net-work of water and sand banks; opposite Jumalpore, the banks are
about a mile apart, but the distance between the extreme banks, leaving
the island opposite the cantonment out of the question, is much more.
During the dry weather this part of the river is passable, and indeed is
in some places nothing but a dry bed of sand, so that people walk across
it. During our stay at the above place we met with many interesting and
new plants, among which a new species of _Villarsia_ occupied the most
prominent place. _Cyperaceae_, _Gramineae_, and aquatic _Scrophularineae_
abound. _Solanum spirale_ occurs in abundance, and the trees commence
to be clothed with ferns. I observed only one _Epiphytica Orchidea_,
probably an _Aerides_.

The banks consist hitherto of nothing but sand, covered with _Saccharum_
_spontaneum_. _Andropogon muricatus_ is scarcely to be met with.

_26th_.--We left Mymensing this morning, and proceeded down the
Burrampooter, the banks of which still present for the most part nothing
but a succession of sandy banks covered with _Saccharum spontaneum_.
The stream is not very rapid, and the river, owing to the numerous
islands and banks, does not present so imposing an appearance as the
Ganges. For the last week strong easterly winds have prevailed.

_27th_.--We entered the mouth of the Soormah, or, as the natives seem to
call it, the Barak. The water of this river or portion of the Megna? is
remarkably clear, compared with that of the Ganges; as indeed is that of
the Burrampooter.

_30th_.--Some time after we entered the Soormah we apparently left its
channel, and up to this morning we have passed through a tract of jheels
with a few clear and very deep channels. The villages are built on small
eminences, and are entirely surrounded with water; they have the usual
form, and those houses adjoining the water have fences of an _Arundo_,
which they tell us are intended to keep out the grass. We have since
entering these jheels passed through and between immense beds of
vegetation, formed principally of _Oplismenus_ (Panicum) _stagninus_,
_Leersia_? _aristata_, which by-the-bye is a distinct genus. _Villarsia_
_cristata_, _Nymphaealotus_, Potamogeton, _Azolla Salvinii_, etc. etc.
The only novel things we have met with are _Ischaemum cuspidatum_,
Roxb. (sui generis,) and a small grass intermediate between Panicum and
Chamaeraphis. The wild form of _Oryza sativa_, _Panicum interruptum_
and _Leersia_? _ciliaris_, Roxb. also occur; the two former in abundance.
On the more dry tracts, that occasionally though very rarely occur,
_Andropogon muricatus_ appears. No _Saccharum_ presented itself since
the 28th. High ground was visible yesterday evening, apparently at a
great distance.

_October 1st_.--We have continued to pass through immense jheels: about
6 A.M. we arrived at Hubbe-gunge, a large native town, situated on the
Barak, which does not deserve the name of a river. The actual distance
from this place to Chattuc is about 42 miles, and the high land in that
direction was faintly visible for about 2 hours in the morning. The
ground to the Eastward is losing the "Jheel" character, and appears
densely wooded, and to the S.E. rather high hills are visible. Altogether
this land of jheels is very remarkable, particularly on account of the
great depth of the water, which except in one point has hitherto always
exceeded 6 feet, and yet the water has fallen in all probability two or
three more. As the head quarters of tropical aquatic plants, it is well
worthy of attention; the profusion of _Leersia aristata_, Roxb. is
immense, but this is almost exceeded by _Oplismenus stagninus_.

_On the 3rd October_, we left the tract of jheels, and proceeded by
small rivers, overhung with jungle and fine bamboos; on the 5th we re-
entered the Soorma and proceeded down it to Chattuc, which is situated on
the left bank of the river, and which we reached in the afternoon. During
our passage down the river we had beautiful views of the mountains, which
do not however strike one with an idea of great height. We could plainly
distinguish two or three waterfalls shooting over scarped precipices.

_Churra Punjee_, _October 30th_.--After a residence of 20 days here,
I wrote to Mr. Solly, stating nothing particular, except that Bucklandia
has coniferous tissue, and that Podostemon will probably prove
Monocotyledonous and allied to Pistiaceae. Our stay here has proved a
source of great delight, and accumulation of botanical and geological
treasures. The cantonments of Churra are at an elevation of 4200 feet
above the sea, the native village being situated half way up the ascent
which closes in the table-land on which the cantonment is situated
towards the N. and W., and it is hence about 300 feet higher. The
country immediately adjoining the cantonment is flat, with here and there
a rounded hillock, destitute of any covering but grasses and a few low,
half shrubby plants. To the Eastward there is a very deep and beautiful
valley, the west side of which in particular is densely covered with
jungle, but this does not contain any large trees. The opposite side,
fronting our bungalow, runs nearly N. and S., presents a succession of
ravines, and a most picturesque and varied surface. This valley, along
the bottom of which as is usual a torrent runs, opens into the low
country at Terrya Ghat, which is situated at the foot of the ascent to
Churra. Directly to the south, and at a distance of about two miles from
the cantonments, there is another valley likewise occupied below by a
torrent fed by the Moosmai falls. The commencement of all these valleys,
that I have at least seen, is a sheer precipice, which often, and
particularly at Moosmai, assumes the form of a vast amphitheatre, over
the brink of which cascades, especially at Moosmai, fall in tolerable
plenty. It is in these places that the immense depth of the sandstone is
best seen; the depth of the valley of Moosmai is, I am told, 1500 feet,
the country above these precipices is generally level, and is in fact
table-land. The most beautiful valley is at Maamloo, a village to the
Westward of Churra, and about five miles distant. The approach to Churra
is pretty enough, and gives the best view of the cantonment. The coal
mines are to the Westward, and close to Churra. These I have not yet
seen; the coal is of the very best description, it does not splinter,
gives remarkably few ashes, affords an admirable fire and the best coke.
Water-courses are plenty about Churra, but the body of water is at this
season small, although it becomes considerable after a few hours rain; it
is then that the great fall at Moosmai becomes really beautiful, the
water shooting over the precipice and falling into a bason about 150 feet
below. By a succession of these falls, although of more limited height,
it at length reaches the bottom of the valley. It is only on the
precipices about the fall that the Chamaerops appears to grow; at the
foot of a precipice a little to the right (going from Churra,) a tree
fern grows, which I have Wallich's authority for stating to be Polypod
giganteum, a fern which occurred at Mahadeb, and which I have seen in
somewhat similar situations at Mergui. All my excursions have been
confined to this valley and to the water-courses immediately around
Churra; once only have I quitted the table-land and proceeded to Maamloo,
and yet in this very limited space the profusion of objects has been such
as to enable me only to embrace a very limited proportion. The above
excursion proved very rich. About half way to Maamloo I discovered a
solitary tree fern (_Alsophila Brunoniana_,) and to the left, and up
the broken sides of the calcareous cliffs that occur here and between
Maamloo and Moosmai, a group of several magnificent specimens, of which
on the succeeding day we brought home three. We saw none above 30 feet,
although the specimen in the British Museum from these hills measures 45.
Their axis is of small diameter, and is nearly cylindrical, the vascular
fascicles being disposed in covered bundles, often assuming the form of a
UU near the circumference of the very dense cellular tissue of which the
axis is chiefly composed. Towards the base it is enveloped in an oblique
dense mass of intermottled rigid fibres (roots) which, as they are
developed in the greatest extent, the nearer they approach the base, give
the trunk a conical form. Their growth is essentially endogenous, and
will probably be found when examined aborigine to approximate to that of
Cycadeae, although these last are of a more exogenous than endogenous
nature. Nothing however is known of the growth of Palms, Cycadeae, or
tree ferns. I have above alluded to the calcareous rocks or cliffs;
these are of the same formation with those that occur so abundantly on
the Tenasserim coast, although they are much more rich in vegetation.
These I first saw at Terrya Ghat; like those of Burmah they abound in
caves, and assume the most varied and picturesque forms; they appear to
be the head quarters of Cyrthandraceae, of which we found a noble species
with the flower of a Martynia growing among the tree-ferns. They are
very rich in ferns and mosses, of which last near the tree-ferns I
gathered four species of four genera without moving a foot. The cliffs
in which, or at the foot of which the coal is found, bound the Churra
cantonments to the Westward. These are chiefly calcareous. The entrance
to Churra lies between this and the precipice at Moosmai. Very few
animals of any description are to be seen about Churra. I have seen one
small species of deer, about half as large again as the mouse-deer of
Mergui, and one young flying squirrel of a greyish black colour, with a
very bushy tail. Leopards are, they say, not uncommon. Tigers do not
generally come so high. Of birds, I mean about Churra, there are several
species of hawks, and their old companions crows and swallows; but I have
seen no sparrows, which is singular enough. There is one beautiful
species of jay, with crimson-orange beak and legs, and a pretty
king-fisher; but, except perhaps in the valleys, birds, I should say, are
very scarce. With respect to shooting, scarcely any is to be had; wood-
cocks are found in the dells about Churra, but sparingly. I have seen
only one snipe and one quail.

Regarding the natives, I have little to say. They are a stout-built,
squat, big-legged hill tribe: the women in regard to shape being exactly
like their mates; and as these are decidedly ugly--somewhat tartarish-
looking people, very dirty, and chew pawn to profusion--they can scarcely
be said to form a worthy portion of the gentler sex. They appear to be
honest; but that is a quality which, from the example of their European
lords, they are said to be losing fast. They have no written character;
every thing being transmitted by tradition, and performed by the
interchange of tokens. They drink like fish, and manufacture a bad kind
of arrack, the pernicious effects of which were experienced by the
European invalids when the Sanatarium was in existence. They pay respect
to their dead by the erection of a sort of kairns and large erect slabs
of sandstone rounded off at the upper end: of these, I believe, they put
up three or five to each friend, according to their means and, probably,
rank. The Churra people cultivate nothing but a little cotton, and
perhaps a species of Eleasine. They depend upon the plains for their
support and supplies, and this is good management since rice at Terrya
Ghat is sold at 70 or 80 seers a rupee. Their hire is, considering the
cheapness of their food, very expensive; a man being rated at four annas
a day, a woman at three, and a boy at two. I should add, that they have
no caste.

The climate is certainly very cool and cold, the thermometer ranging from
about 56 to 66 degrees in-doors at this time of the year. The rains are
said to be the coldest part of the year; they are excessive, commencing
in April and ceasing in October. It occasionally rains for fifteen or
sixteen days in succession, and without intermission; and nine or ten
inches have been known to fall in twenty-four hours. Since we have been
here, inclusive of this, we have had four days of wet weather, of which
three were continued rain. Both were ushered in by the sudden irruption
of heavy mists from below, which soon spread over the country, obscuring
every thing. These sudden irruptions occur during the partial breaking
up of the rain, during which time the valleys are completely choked up
with dense mists, the summits of the hills on the opposite side to that
on which one stands being alone visible. After the rains were over, in
the first instance, the plains, or rather the mass of haze hanging over
them, presented a most curious spectacle.

The coldest weather we have yet experienced was at Maamloo, on the 27th,
the thermometer at 8 P.M. being at 52 degrees. This is remarkable, as
Maamloo is rather below Churra. There is however a good deal of wood
round the place. {7}

With regard to Botany, the chief vegetation about Churra, as indeed is at
once indicated by the appearance of the country, consists of grasses.
Along the water-courses, which intersect this portion of the country,
_Bucklandia populnea_, a species of Ternstraemia, Pandanus, Eugenia,
Camellia, are found; while Compositae, Eriocaulon, and ferns abound in
the same places. The vegetation of the valleys is very rich and very
varied; and, an affinity is indicated with the botany of China by the
existence of a species of Illicum, I. khascanam, and several
Ternstroemiaceae. The great orders are grasses, ferns, compositae.
During a trip to Maamloo, a beautifully situated village on the brink of
the table-land, we discovered abundance of the tree-fern _Alsophila_
_Brunoniana_, the highest of which measured 25 feet. The appearance of
the tree is that of a palm. The flora surrounding these tree-ferns we
found to be exceedingly rich. Among Nepal ferns, I may mention
_Anisadenia_, _Saxifraga ligulata_.

_Interior of the Khasyah Mountains_.--On the 2nd, we left for
Surureem; at which place we halted a day. Bucklandia here occurs, of a
very large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet. It is a rugged-looking tree,
many of the branches being decayed. There we observed the first
_Rhododendrum arboreum_. Our next stage was to Moflong; during our
march thither, or rather mine, I had a fine view of the Himalayas, but
not upon the regular road to Moflong. The European forms certainly
increased in number between Surureem and the above place. Two great
acquisitions occurred on the road; a new Crawfurdia, and a Podostemon
which W. has named after me. This I found in the clear stream adjoining
the Bogapanee growing upon stones, and adhering to them very firmly. It
is on the hills about the Bogapanee that the firs first make their
appearance, but do not attain to any great size. The valley of the
Bogapanee is exceedingly deep, and both the descent and ascent are very
difficult.

Moflong is a bleak exposed village and the bungalow or residence for
travellers very bad. The number of European forms we found to increase
considerably about this place. The only woods that occur are of fir, but
the trees are of no great size; their frequent occurrence, however,
stamps a peculiar feature on the scenery. We here experienced nearly
three days of continued rain, and, as the place is bleak, we were
miserable enough. We left for Myrung on the 9th, and the greater and all
the first part of the long march was very uninteresting. At Mumbree,
however, there is a decided improvement, and the scenery is very good.
One here notices the occurrence of woods--of oaks, etc., and their form
reminded me somewhat of the woods of Buckinghamshire. No woods of fir
occur; all the trees occurring isolatedly. I should mention that the
country between Molee and Moflong is quite peculiar in geological
structure, abounding in Cyanite, the masses of which are of very
considerable size. I imagine that the vegetation farther on in this
direction would be more rich in European forms than elsewhere, at least
between Churra and Mingklow.

Myrung is certainly far superior in every point to any place that we have
yet seen; and, as the climate is peculiarly fine and the bungalow good,
the degree of enjoyment is as great as can be expected. The features of
the country are similar to those of Mumbree. The groves or woods are
composed chiefly of oaks, intermixed with Magnolias, which attain a very
large size. These forests seem all to have a northern aspect. Orchideae
abound in these woods, and so far as herbaceous forms go, European
vegetation is on the decrease. From the bungalow one has occasionally a
remarkably fine view of the Himalayas, mountains intercepted by large
tracts of very high land, probably Bootan. The coldest weather we have
experienced here was when the thermometer sank to 46 degrees; even in the
middle of the day the sun is not oppressive. It is singular enough, that
the first attempts, so to speak, at a Fauna occur here. The woods abound
with small birds. I shot one squirrel, with a very short tail and
rounded head. Red deer (the Gyee of the Burmese) occur, though rarely.
Two or three solitary snipes may be found during a day's excursion, and
perhaps a brace of quail, which are nearly as large as English
partridges. Pheasants are reported to occur in the woods. I should add,
that both here and at Nunklow snipe of a very large description, and of
the habits of the solitary snipe, are found in small numbers. They are
very brown, as large as a wood-cock, and their cry is that of a common
snipe. Lieutenant Townsend informs me, that these birds are a totally
distinct species. Lieutenant Vetch tells me, that the Khasiyas declare
that they are the females of the wood-cock, in other words, wood-hens,
and that in March wood-cocks abound in the places with these wood-hens.
He likewise informs me, that the only difference he could ascertain to
exist between these birds and wood-cocks, consists in their having very
short and thick legs.

I have seen two of this particular description, but have never shot any.

[View from Nunklow: p8.jpg]

After Myrung one can speak much less in favour of these hills. Nunklow
is a pretty spot, and commands a really magnificent view of the
Himalayas, of the Bootan mountains, and of the plains of Assam.
Altogether this view is the finest which, in my limited experience, I
have ever seen: I did not however like Nunklow, nor do my wishes recur to
it. {9} The route thither is pretty enough, and not fatiguing. I may
mention Nunklow as the station of some fine trees, among which is a
Betula, two AEsculi, oaks, etc. in abundance. The pine is in fine order,
but not large. Much more cultivation is carried on in this portion of
the hills than elsewhere, and paddy is cultivated apparently to some
extent. The temperature is much warmer, and the air by no means so
bracing as that of Myrung. Perhaps at this place the flora resemble that
of lower Himalaya more than other places we have yet seen. The march
from Nunklow to Nowgong is very long, and, as we started late, owing
partly to mismanagement and partly to the want of coolies, we were most
agreeably benighted in the jungle. The descent is very sudden and
commences at Nunklow; the valley, on the brink of which it is situated,
being perhaps 2000 feet deep. It is in this valley or on its walls that
the finest pines we have seen occur, but even here they do not attain a
greater height than 60 feet, and perhaps a diameter of a foot or a foot
and a half. As Mr. Brown of the Sillet Light Infantry informed me most
correctly, many would make fine spars; but Mr. Cracroft's language in one
of the Journals of the Asiatic Society when describing these firs, seems
rather overwrought. During our march I picked up a pretty species of
Sonerila. A small stream runs at the foot of the descent, by what name
it goes I know not. Near the Bustapanee, flowing along a valley about
two hours' walk from the last mentioned water. Wallich discovered
abundance of his favourite and really splendid Polypodium Wallichianum,
which I may accuse with justice of being an additional reason for our
benightment. The stream is really the only respectable river we have
seen, or rather the second one that can be called a torrent, the other
being the Bogapanee. It boils along, and the body of water is great,
even at the season of the year at which we passed it. It has forced
enormous holes, frequently round, in the large masses of rock that form
its bed, and then in and a few yards beyond the bridge of bamboos by
which we crossed, it falls, they say, 70 feet into a fine bason, which
however is only partly visible from above. They who have been on the
edges of this bason say that the fall is really fine; it certainly has
not much of this when viewed from above, neither can it, I think, even in
the rains come up to Mr. Cracroft's description. Moosmai is, _apres_
_tout_ I will venture to say, the king of the falls between Terrya Ghat
and Ranee Godown. On the farther side of this water, small trees of
Cycas first make their appearance, but we had no time now or rather then
to examine any thing. As the shades of evening lengthened we quickened
our paces, and at last when it became dark, came up with the coolies in a
most rugged road, and when it was dark, after stumbling about a good
deal, I made my way to the foot of the descent, and reached a small
stream, where we made preparations for a halt, and where we passed the
night, during which we were treated with a slight shower of rain. As the
season was far advanced we all escaped, scot-free, from fever, and
reached the Bungalow called Nowgong about 10 o'clock next morning, where
we spent the day.

[The village of Nunklow: p11.jpg]

From this time we were, I believe, all anxious to leave the hills, which
had lost all their charms, although the vegetation was still more
gigantic and interesting. But we were now confined to the road, which is
very good, all digressions being prevented by the thickness of the
jungles, and then in some places swarms of wild elephants. These animals
appear most numerous about Onswye, near which there is a marshy place
literally trodden up by them, and their tracks were so fresh that no
traces of Wallich or his coolies could be identified, although they had
preceded us only about half an hour. It was in this particular place
that I gathered a solitary specimen of _Butomus pygmaeus_. Beyond
Nowgong, saul first comes into view, and many trees attain a considerable
size. Some fine ferns and two beautiful Acanthaceae, I may mention, as
collected about that place. We reached Jyrung by an easy march the next
day; every step adding only to a greater renewal of acquaintance with old
faces, or at least old plain plants. Between Jyrung and the foot of the
hills, we fell in with _Henslowia glabra_ in fine flower: Wallich took
many fine specimens, all of which were males. This species is, as well
as the former, liable to deceive one as to the sex of the plant; but all
the seeming ovaries beginning to enlarge are due to insect bites or
punctures. To conclude: at the foot of the hills we were embraced with
_Marlea Begonifolia_, _Bauhinia purpurea_, etc. almost exactly as at
Terrya Ghat. Between the foot of these really delightful hills and Ranee
Godown, I fell in with one plant only, deserving of mention, _Dischedia_
_Rafflesiana_; this is worthy of notice, as our Indian Asclipiferous
species have not hitherto been found, I believe north of Moulmain, nor
otherwhere than that peninsula and the archipelago. From Ranee Godown we
had the pleasure of walking nineteen miles to Gowahatty, which place we
reached on the 23rd November.

All I can say in its favour is, that it is very cold in the mornings,
always at this season cool; that it is very pretty, being situated on the
Burrampooter, and surrounded with hills; that the women are good-looking,
and the whole body of officers among the best. Of its botanical riches I
can only say, that in a short afternoon's excursion we found
_Cardiopterus harnulosa_, or rather saw it, and a species of Apocynea
in fruit, probably the same with one I have from Tenasserim, and which is
remarkable for the very many fleshy alae of its fruit. Gowahatty is
particularly known as the station for _Cycas circinatis_, one fine
specimen of which Captain Jenkins shewed us, and the height of which is
perhaps 20 or 25 feet.

It was dichotomous, but only once. The rings formed by the scars of the
foot stalks, as well as those of the fruit stalks, were most distinct on
the two branches only, and gave them a very rich and less elated
appearance. The examination of this specimen only strengthens me in my
opinion derived chiefly from examination of those in the Botanic Gardens,
that these rings which certainly afford the age of each branch, one being
added of either sort every year, are not to be distinguished in the stem
below its division. So that after all, _Brongniart_ is only half-wrong,
although he is ignorant of the saving clause.

I may add, that we were on the hills about thirty-eight days, of which
seven and a half were rainy, a proportion of 1 in 5.5.

_On the 2nd December_, our party left Gowahatty for Suddiya, on the
morning of the 4th I proceeded in advance in Captain Matthie's express
canoe for Tezpoor, which place I reached on the evening of the 6th, and
at which I met with a most kind reception from Captain Matthie, Principal
Assistant to the Agent to the Governor General, and in Civil charge of
the district of Durrung. Tezpoor possesses many advantages over
Gowahatty, from which place it is about 120 miles distant, that is,
following the river. It is situated on the banks of what was once a
portion of the Burrampooter, but which is now nothing but a nullah,
nearly dry at the present season. It is a completely new place, {12}
Captain Matthie having arrived here about a year since, at which time it
was a complete jungle. Some small hills run along the side of the
nullah, on one of which Captain Matthie's house is situated. The
clearings have already reached to a considerable extent, and there are
two good roads for buggies. The great advantage it has over Gowahatty
consists in its freedom from fogs, which evidently hug the Meekur hills
on the opposite side of the Burrampooter, bearing about E.S.E. from
Tezpoor. It is perhaps owing to the proximity of these hills that
Nowgong until 10 A.M. appears completely enveloped in fog, while all
round Tezpoor it is completely clear.

From this place the view of the Himalayas and of the intervening Bootan
hills is very fine. The chain is of considerable extent, and presents
three grand peaks, of which the most westerly one is the largest. They
do not appear very distant, and are distinctly seen at this season at all
times of the day. They are more soft and picturesque towards evening, at
which time the different shades are better developed. The degrees of
ascent of the Bootan hills are well shewn; the hills forming the lowest
range being of no considerable height. It is at once obvious, that the
ascent into Bootan from this place would occupy several days.

[Captain Mathie's Cutcherry: p12.jpg]

The view to the S. and S.S.W. is barren enough, and is completely flat;
the country presenting nothing whatever but high grass, with an
occasional peep of the river. That to the north is, owing to the
Himalayas, very striking and picturesque.

Cultivation is carried on to a great extent about Tezpoor, and the
district is populous, although few villages are to be seen, as they are
all concealed among trees. Paddy is the principal grain cultivated, and
this is carried on in low places, which appear on a casual examination to
have been originally beds of rivers. Captain Matthie however tells me,
that many of these have abrupt terminations and commencements, such may
have been old jheels. Sursoo, opium, and sugar-cane are likewise
cultivated, especially the former.

The whole land indeed, with the exception of the rice-places and the
evidently old beds of the Burrampooter, are much more elevated than the
land round Gowahatty. Both Tezpoor and Durrung are consequently less
damp, and more healthy than the above-mentioned place. In fact, as a
residence I would infinitely prefer Tezpoor to Gowahatty. With regard to
the shikar, (shooting) both large and small game abound. Tigers are
frequent as well as bears. Buffaloes are to be seen on the _churs_
(islands) in large herds. Pea-fowl and jungle-fowl abound, as well as
water-fowl; floricans and partridges, both black and red, are by no means
unfrequent.

_Upper Assam_, _Jan_. _15th_.--We arrived at Kujoo, a rather large
village of Singfos, and within half a day's journey of which the tea is
found in its native state. This is the first Singfo village I have as
yet seen, and is situated on the skirts of a plain of small extent, and
covered to all appearance by extensive grass jungles, among which trees
are interspersed. The houses are not numerous, but they are of large
size, and are raised in the Burman fashion on piles from the ground.
Within one, many families are accommodated. The people themselves are
fair, much like the Burmese, but still quite distinct. The male dress
resembles the Burmese much; the female is more distinct, consisting
chiefly of a sort of _gown_; and whilst tattooing is confined to the
males in Burma, it here appears to be indulged in chiefly by the ladies;
all the legs I saw during the day, being ornamented with rings of tattoo.
The men are a stout, rather fine race; free, easy, and independent, and
great admirers of _grog_ in every form.

During our journey hither, and indeed en route from Kujoo Ghat, we passed
over a clay soil and through a dense jungle, comparable to which I have
seen but little. Our direction has been nearly south from the above
place. The jungle consisted chiefly of trees, here and there large
patches of bamboo or tobacco occurring: there was but little underwood.
Among the trees the most gigantic was a species of Dipterocarpus,
probably the same with that I have gathered on Pator hill, Mergui. We
picked up likewise very large acorns with a depressed lamellated cap, and
two fruits of Castanea, one probably the same with that from Myrung. But
of all the vegetation, that of ferns is the most luxuriant and most
varied.

_Jan_. _16th_.--This day we gave up to the examination of the tea in its
native place. It occurs in a deep jungle to the south of the village,
and at a distance of about three miles from it. Our route thither lay
through first a rather extensive grass jungle, then through a deep
jungle. We crossed the Deboru once on our route; it is a mean and
insignificant stream.

Nothing particular presents itself in the jungle until you approach the
tea, on which you come very suddenly. This plant is limited to a small
extent, perhaps to 300 yards square, the principal direction being N. and
S. It grows in a part of the jungle where the soil is light and dryish,
and throughout which, _ravinules_ are frequent, due, Mac. tells me, to
the effect of rain dropping from the heavy over-shadowing foliage on a
light soil. In addition to this, small mounds occur about the roots of
the large trees; but chiefly around bamboos, which are by no means
unfrequent. This, however, is of common occurrence in all bamboo
jungles. The underwood consists chiefly of Rubeaceae, a small Leea,
Cyrthandraceae and Filices, _Polypodium arboreum_, _Angiopteris_
_orassipes_, and a large Asplenium are common. Among the arbuscles are a
large leaved Tetranthera, a Myristica, Anonaceae, _Paederioidea_
_faetidissima_, foliis ternatis; stipulis apicee subulata, 3-fidis, etc.
And among the forest trees are a vast Dipterocarpus, the same we met with
en route to Kujoo, _Dillenia speciosa_, etc. Piper and Chloranthus are
likewise not uncommon. There is no peculiar feature connected with the
existence of the tea in such a place, and in such a limited extent. We
were fortunate enough to find it both in flower and fruit, owing to its
site; its growth is tall and slender, and its crown at least that of the
smaller, very small and ill developed. Large trees are rare; in fact,
they have been all cut down by the Singfos, who are like all other
natives excessively improvident. The largest we saw, and which Wallich
felled, was, including the crown, 43 feet in length. Small plants are
very common, although Bruce had already removed 30,000. Mac. thinks they
grow chiefly on the margins of the ravinules or hollows. Their leaves
were all large, of a very dark green, and varying from four to eight
inches in length. The pith of the tree felled was excentric, the greater
development taking place as usual on the southern side; it was two and a
half inches N., three and a half S.; but about 10 feet above the base
this excentricity was nearly doubled. The wood is very compact, and the
tree apparently one of slow growth. The largest that Bruce has seen, and
which he felled last year, was 29 cubits in length. The jungle was so
thick that all general views as to its real extent, and the circumstances
limiting it, must be very superficial. To the East the cessation of the
lightness of the soil and of the hollows is very abrupt, and strongly
influences the tea, only a few small straggles being visible in that
direction. The jungle here was choked with grasses, and the large
viscous Acanthaceae of which we have elsewhere en route seen such
abundance. The tree evidently, even in its large state, owes little
gratitude to the sun, at least for direct rays, none of which I should
think ever reach it. The Singfos however say, that it will only thrive
in the shade. We halted after gathering a crop of leaves under a fine
Dillenia, which was loaded with its fruit. Here the Singfos demonstrated
the mode in which the tea is prepared among them. I must premise,
however, that they use none but young leaves. They roasted or rather
semi-roasted the leaves in a large iron vessel, which must be quite
clean, stirring them up and rolling them in the hands during the
roasting. When duly roasted, they expose them to the sun for three days;
some to the dew alternately with the sun. It is then finally packed into
bamboo chungas, into which it is tightly rammed. The ground on which it
occurs is somewhat raised above the plain adjoining the village, as we
passed over two hillocks on our route to the tea, and the descent did not
evidently counterbalance the ascent.

_Jan_. _17th_.--We arrived at Kujoo-doo this afternoon, having passed
through a great extent of jungle, which I am sorry to say presented the
usual features. We crossed the Deboro once during our march, and several
tributary streams which, as may be supposed, from the size of the
_larger_ recipient river, are excessively insignificant. The soil
throughout, a good part seemed to be of clay. The only plants of
interest we found were two Bambusae in flower, and two species of
Meniscium, and a _Polypodium venulis_ tertiariis simplicibus. A
_Sarcopyramis Sonerilae_ was also found, but rather past flowering, and
an Acrostichum? or Lomaria? We did not observe any ravinules or hollows,
although mounds were by no means uncommon.

_Jan_. _18th_.--We proceeded in a Southerly direction, and after marching
for nearly seven hours arrived at, and encamped on, a largish plain, on
which paddy had been extensively cultivated. The whole route lay through
a vast and deep jungle, the road running partly on the side of an old
bund: part of our road was through very wet ground, part through rather
dry elevated woods, bamboos of two species occurred abundantly. We saw
several vast specimens of Dipterocarpus, one which had been cut down
measured from the base to first branch 110 feet. Ferns still continue in
excess. I gathered another species of _Sarcopyramis_; a _Goodyera_,
_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_ in flower, but rare; and an Apostasia not in
flower.

_Jan 19th_.--We reached Negrigam early in the forenoon although we did
not leave our ground before 10 A.M. The road to the village was pretty
good. Negrigam is a largish village on the north bank of the Booree
Dihing, which is here a considerable though not deep stream. This bank
is at the site of the village very high. The population seemed to be
considerable. To the south, large ranges of hills were visible, the
first of which were close enough to admit of one's distinguishing them to
be wooded to the top. The inner ranges were lofty. We had some
difficulty in ascertaining where the tea was located, the accounts being
rather contradictory. At length we proceeded up the bed of a small
river, Maumoo, which runs into the Booree Dihing close to the village:
after wading along in the waters for two hours we arrived at a khet where
we encamped. The direction being from Negrigam N.W. along the banks of
this stream. The Pavia I first observed at Silam Mookh, was abundant,
and some of the specimens were very fine, the largest was a handsome,
very shady tree, of perhaps thirty feet high. The only plant of interest
was _Gnetum scandens_. On a high land bank I gathered a species of
Polytrichum, and one of Bartramia.

_January 20th_.--This morning we crossed the small streamlet Maumoo,
ascended its rather high bank, and within a few yards from it came upon
the tea: which as we advanced farther into the jungle increased in
abundance; in fact within a very few yards, several plants might be
observed. The plant was both in flower and ripe fruit, in one instance
the seeds had germinated while attached to the parent shrub. No large
trees were found, the generality being six or seven feet high; all above
this height being straggling, slender, unhandsome shrubs: the leaves upon
the whole were, I think, smaller than those of the Kujoo plants. With
respect to the plants with which it is here associated, I may observe
that they were nearly the same with those of the Kujoo jungle, but here
there was nevertheless one striking difference, that the jungle was by no
means so dark in consequence of the smaller size of the jungle trees. The
underwood consisted chiefly of ferns, among which _Polipodium unitum_
was very common, and a Lycopodium. Bamboos occurred here and there,
although by no means so extensively as at Kujoo.

_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_, and a new _Dicksonia_, _D_. _Griffithiana_,
Wall. were the plants of the greatest interest. With regard to the
limits of the tea, it is by all accounts of no very great extent; but
this is a point upon which it is difficult to say any thing decisive, in
consequence of the thickness of the jungle. The space on which we found
it may be said to be an elbow of the land, nearly surrounded by the
Manmoo river, on the opposite side of which, where we were encamped, it
is reported not to grow. Within this space the greater part consists of
a gentle elevation or rather large mound. On this it is very abundant,
as likewise along its sides, where the soil is looser, less sandy, and
yellow (McClell.); along the base of this I think it is less common, and
the soil is here more sandy, and much darker (McClell.) We partly
ascertained that it was limited to the west, in which direction we soon
lost sight of it. To the south and eastward of the elbow of land it is
most common, but here it is, as I have said above, stopped by the river.

The greatest diameter of the stem of any plant that I saw in this place,
might be two or three inches, certainly not more.

_Nadowar_, _Feb_. _17th_.--Our route from this village, at which we were
encamped, to the tea locality in the neighbouring forest, lay for the
first time partly over paddy fields, the remainder over high ground
covered with the usual grasses, with here and there a low strip; all was
excessively wet. We next traversed a considerable tract of tree jungle,
perhaps for nearly a mile; this was a drier and higher soil than the rice
ground. On the northern flank of this, and close to the edge of the
jungle we came to the tea, situated on a low strip of ground.

This plant here occupies an extremely limited space, and its greatest,
and indeed almost only extent, is from south to north. It is in one spot
excessively thick, and many of the plants had attained a considerable
size, but the largest had been cut down, when it was visited by people
from Suddiya in search of tea some short time ago. It had just passed
flowering; all the plants looked well, better I think than those of
Kujoo. The soil was very much like that of the Kujoo and Negrigam
jungles, and was remarkable for its great dryness and looseness, in spite
of the long continued and heavy rains. That near the surface was dark
brown, below yellow brown, and the deeper it was examined the more yellow
it seemed to become. We satisfied ourselves that its depth extended
lower than two feet from the surface. The space the plant occupies in
any numbers certainly does not exceed forty yards in length, by twenty-
five in breadth. About fifty yards to the north several plants occurred,
but the soil here was of a much darker tint, although it appeared to be
nearly as dry as the other. The accompanying diagram may give some idea
of its situation.

_February 17th_.--We arrived at Rangagurrah, the capital of the Muttack
country, and the residence of the Burra-seena Puttee, or Bengmara. Our
route thither occupied us, inclusive of the day spent in examining the
tea at Noadwar, five days. During the three first, we passed through a
low country admirably, and almost exclusively, adapted for rice
cultivation, and consequently abounding in wild wading birds and water-
fowl.

As we approached Rangagurrah the ground became higher, in addition to
which it is better drained. We crossed about two miles from Rangagurrah
a small rivulet, a tributary of the Deboro; no plants but one of much
interest was detected _en route_. That one was a fine forest tree
affecting damp low places, apparently very limited in extent. It is a
new genus, belonging to Hamemelideae, and we have called it _Sedgwickia_
_cerasifolia_. On our arrival at Rangagurrah we were met by the Burra-
seena Puttee, 'Big warrior,' who escorted us to the houses he had caused
to be erected for us, and which were at a little distance from the
village itself. During our association with him or with his country, he
was remarkably attentive and civil, and as he is an independent man he
pleased me much. On the -- Feb. we reached Tingrei, a poor village about
ten miles to the S.E. of Rangagurrah, situated on the west bank of the
rivulet of the same name, another tributary of the Deboroo. On the same
morning as the march was very short, we proceeded to examine the tea, and
the following day was likewise given up to another examination. The tea
here may be characterised as dwarf, no stems that I saw exceeding fifteen
feet in height; it had just passed flowering. It occurs in great
abundance, and to much greater extent than in any of the places at which
we had previously examined it. But here it is neither limited by
peculiarity of soil or such slight elevation as the place affords; it
grows indiscriminately on the higher ground where the soil is of a
brownish yellow, and on which it attains a larger size than elsewhere, or
on clumps occurring in low raviny ground and associated with fine
bamboos. This ground was intersected by a very tortuous dry nullah bed,
on the banks of which tea was very abundant. On either side of the
jungle in which it is found, extensive clearings occur, so that it is
impossible to say what its original extent may have been; I am inclined
to think, however that its limit was with the commencement of a small
clearing running to the N.W. of a village situated on the west bank of
the Tingrei, and that not much has been cut down.

[The Himalaya from Rangagurrah: p19.jpg]

The extent may be roughly estimated as follows, reckoning from the
entrance into the jungle in a south easterly direction: the one in fact
of our route from the village to the tea.

S.E. 180 yards, after which it disappears, but shews itself again
sparingly about 100 yards further on, and in the same direction.

To the S. of this I found none, its direction being totally changed; its
general direction being now,

N.W. or N.N.W. in which, and in about 200 yards from the place at which
it ceased towards the south, it becomes very abundant, and continues so
in a

W.N.W. course for about 220 yards.

Thence it appears to be interrupted for the space of 80 or 100 yards.

It then recommences a course

N. by W. for about 100 yards, when it is terminated by cultivated ground
to the east, and low raviny ground to the west.

200 yards to the north, and close to a small village, it is very
abundant, and at least its stumps with numerous shoots, occupy almost the
whole of a small clearing bounded on the N.E. by the rivulet Tingrei. It
may be supposed to extend for a little distance into the contiguous
jungle to the N.W.

On the whole, it may be said to occupy a narrow strip of jungle,
extending from the village Tingrei in a S.E. direction about a .25 of a
mile. I consider the plants here as finer than in any of the other tea
jungles, the crown being much better developed owing at least in some
parts to the less denseness of the jungle. The fact of the shoots
appearing from the bases of the stems which had been cut down in the
small clearing above mentioned, gave us good opportunities of seeing the
effects of exposure to the sun. This they seemed to bear well, but the
shoots were rather too much elongated, and the leaves had too much of a
yellow tint to indicate that such was their natural situation. No part
of the soil on which tea was found was like the soil of Nadowar or
Manmoo; still, although stiffer than the others, it was characterised by
a certain lightness.

The superstratum was very light, and brownish black, the remainder
yellowish brown, the yellow tints as well as the stiffness increasing
downwards. The soil was here deeper than in any of the other sites.

Many parts of the ground were excessively low, and very probably
inundated during the rains.

From the fact of its occurring in such abundance in the small clearing to
the N.W. of the village, I am induced to suppose that it had at some
period extended down the large clearing which runs 200 yards to the south
of the above village.

The associated vegetation presented no peculiarities; several plants,
with which we had not previously met, occurred. One, a Stauntonia, was
found, which may be supposed from analogy to indicate a certain coldness
of climate. But on the other hand, it was associated with so many
tropical forms that not much reliance can be placed on this isolated
fact.

On the 25th we returned to Rangagurrah, where the elephants and dowaniers
(_drivers_) were dismissed. On the 26th we commenced returning by the
Deboroo, the descent of which occupied two days and a half.

Here let me express my opinion that in cases like ours, where a set of
men are deputed to examine countries, time spent on rivers is absolutely
thrown away. Of course in many instances such must be the case, but
where it is avoidable, marching, and especially returning by a different
route, should be adopted. Rangagurrah, be it known, is only two days'
march from Suddiyah in a direct line, yet we have been a month proceeding
by the circuitous line of rivers between these places.

CHAPTER II.

_Journal of a trip to the Mishmee Mountains_, _from the_
_Debouching of the Lohit to about ten miles East of_
_the Ghalooms_. _Lat_. _27 degrees 50' to 28 degrees 10'_
_N_.; _Long_. _95 degrees 20' to 96 degrees 40' E_.

I left Suddiya on the morning of the 15th October 1836, and halted at Noa
Dihing Mookh, (river mouth) a place abounding in fish, and promising
excellent sport both in fly and live-bait fishing. The temperature of
the Noa Dihing, an indolent stream flowing over a flat, sandy plain, was
79 degrees; that of the B. pooter, which falls in large volume rapidly
from the mountains, was 67 degrees. Fish congregate in vast numbers at
the junction of rivers of different temperatures, and are there more
easily captured than in other situations, a fact that ought to be borne
in mind, whether for the mere object of sport or the more practical
purpose of fisheries in India.

The following day (16th) we passed Choonpoora, where the rapids commence,
and where stones first appear; one rapid, a little above Choonpoora, is
severe. There is a severe one also at Toranee Mookh, on which the Copper
temple is situated; and one at Tingalee Mookh, on which Lattow is
situated. The river now commences to be more subdivided; there is but
little sand deposited alone, but vast beds of sand and stones occur
together. The banks are clothed with jungle, and are occasionally
skirted with tall grasses, but the _churs_ or islands disappear it may be
said with the sands, and are only formed in lower and more distant parts
from the mountains, where the velocity of the current is less.
Temperature at 6 A.M. 66 degrees, 4 P.M. 76 degrees, (water of B. pooter
64.65,) 7 P.M. 72 degrees.

Buffaloes abundant, but I only saw a few.

The most interesting plants were a Cyclocodon, Liriodendron, Sanicula: 32
species were collected.

_Oct_. _17th_.--Reached Karam Mookh, about noon. Rapids much increased,
some very severe, especially that opposite Karam Mookh, which we crossed
without accident, although as we crossed a confluence of two rapids, the
water in the middle being much agitated; it was a wonder that no canoes
were upset. The bed of the river is still more divided, the spots
between the streams being for the most part entirely composed of stones.
The lowest temperature of the B. pooter was 63 degrees. A severe but
short rapid occurs at Karam Mookh itself, the fall being very great, but
the body of water small. The water of this river is beautifully clear.
Its temperature at the Mookh 72 degrees. The jungle extends down to both
edges of the water, and the stream is not divided into branches. My
guide in the evening disgusted me by asking how many days I intended to
stop at the Koond before my return to Suddiya, when I had engaged him
expressly to go into the Mishmee hills, and not merely to Brama Koond, as
the above question implied. But such is the way in which our best
designs depending on native agency are often tampered with. Thermometer
at 8 P.M. 64 degrees. Species of Conaria grow abundantly on the banks!

_Oct_. _18th_.--We are still in the Karam river. Reached about noon the
Kamptee village, Palampan, or rather its Ghat. This Karam river is
tortuous, generally shallow, with a more or less stony bed; it is nothing
more in fact than a succession of rapids, between each of which the slope
is very gentle, so that one makes good progress. Temperature at 6 A.M.
66 degrees in the canoe; but in the hut in which I slept, it is as low as
60 degrees. The dews are very heavy, and the jungle, as before, comes
down to the edges of the water, but scarcely affords any marked feature.
_Kydia calycina_ is common, as is likewise a large Mimoseous tree.
There is apparently very little diminution in the volume of water, though
several minor streams were passed between this and the Mookh.
Liriodendron is becoming more frequent. The views of the mountains are
very varied; and that of the Koond defile or Chasm, very beautiful; water-
falls seem to be distinctly visible down one hill or mountain, in
particular. The finest view however is on the Lohit, opposite Dyaroo
Mookh, at which place the three huge, ever snowy peaks, characteristic of
the Mishmee portion of the mountains, are distinctly seen.

Left the Ghat for the village which is situate on the Dea-soon or
Simaree, which flows into the Tenga-panee, and which is said now to carry
off so much water from the Karam that this river ceases a short distance
above this place to become navigable for boats like mine. The path we
pursued ran in a S.E. or S.S.E. direction for about a mile; it is good,
and leads through a thick jungle: the village contains probably fifteen
houses. The Gohain, or _chief_, is a most respectable-looking man, and
of very fair complexion. His people are for the most part stout. The
women also of very fair complexion, with their hair tied in a large knot
on the top of the head, in a peculiar way, putting one in mind of fat
Norman damsels. Temperature in the boat to-day 76 degrees, the sky
beautifully clear. The B. pooter seems still the only river, the
temperature of which is always below that of the air. One interesting
Elaeocarpus occurred--Petal. viridibus apice dentatis; calice griseo
viridi, _vix valvato_. I may remark, that the aestivation of Kydia is
scarcely valvate. I saw a, to me, new kingfisher and wood-pecker. The
black and white kingfisher, _Dalcedo rudus_, is not found on the B.
pooter beyond the termination of the sand banks.

_Oct_. _18th_--Temperature in my hut at 5.5 A.M. is 56 degrees, outside
it is 52.5 degrees, that of the river water 63 degrees. We left about 8,
and proceeded up the Karam, which presented nothing singular. The volume
of water is now less, and rapids are more frequent: heavy snow is visible
from a little above Palampan Ghat, where the river bends to the
northward; and a little further on a fine view of the Koond occurs. The
Chasm is bounded in the rear by the fine rugged peak so distinctly seen
from Suddiya due east. About 11, we reached the Ghat, beyond which
boats, except of the smallest description, cannot pass; and about 1,
started for the Mishmee village Jing-sha, situated on the Karam. Our
course was along the bed of the river, and nearly due east. Formerly
boats were able to reach the Ghat of the village, but the water has
become shallower, owing, they say, to a larger portion being carried off
by the Dea-soon, which runs into the Tenga-panee. We reached the village
Ghat about four in the afternoon, but our people arrived very little
before six o'clock. The march was tedious and difficult, owing to the
numerous stones which are strewed in the way: and the necessity for
crossing the river was so frequent, that all idea of shoes was quite out
of the question. To increase the difficulty, the stones in the bed of
river are very slippery, and as we crossed rapids, it frequently required
some care to prevent our falling.

We were met by the Gam, or chief, before any signs of the village there
were visible. The population is small; the people fair, but begrimed
with dirt; the dress consists of a loose jacket without sleeves. The
primary article of clothing is indeed so scanty, that the less one says
about it the better. The women are decently clothed, and have generally
enormous calves, certainly bigger than those of the men: their favourite
ornament seems to be a band of silver, broadest across their forehead,
which encircles their head. This village is close to the hills, and
within a day's journey of the Koond, at least for a Mishmee. One
Assamese slave is among the inhabitants, who was sold when a boy. A few
of the men have Singfo dhaos or swords, others miserable knives, and some
the usual spear so general with the tribes on this frontier. But in
general the weapons of these people are most insignificant. The view of
the hills is not fine from this place; it is too close to see any of
great height, and they soon disappear to the westward. In the evening
that of the Koond, which bears E.N.E. by N. is fine, particularly one
mountain, which is known at once by its numerous cascades or appearances
of water-falls, which, although they appear like streaks of white to the
eye, are distinctly visible through a telescope. The bed of the Karam is
almost entirely stony, and the immediate banks are clothed with grass.
The jungle is of the usual thick description. The Gam, whose name is
Jingsha, is a respectable looking man, fair in his dealings, and willing
to oblige. They all have tobacco pipes.

_Oct_. _19th_.--Halted to enable the people to bring up the baggage, and
we shall in all probability have to halt to-morrow. I paid a visit to
the Gam's house, Jingshi; it is to the S.E. of the Ghat, and about a mile
and a half distant from it. The houses are all detached, and almost
buried in jungle. Jingsha's house is a good one, very long, and well
built; he has only about five skulls. {24} _Mont_ was handed round to
the Mishmees in large bamboo cups. From our encampment, abundance of
clearances for cultivation are visible on the hills. Those to N., S.,
S.E. are of some extent, and belong to a Mishmee Gam, Tapa. Some fine
timber trees exist on the road to the village, and a very large Ficus: no
particular plants occur except a Chloranthus, fructibus albis, which is
also common towards Palampan. Thermometer at noon, in imperfect shade,
83 degrees.

_Oct_. _20th_.--The temperature of the air at 5.5 A.M. was 57.5 degrees.
That of water, 60 degrees. I was obliged to halt again to enable the
rice to be brought up. To-day we gathered on the banks of the Karam, a
tree in fruit, Fol. alterna, impari-pinnata, stipulis caducis. Cymi
compositi dichotomi; calyce minuto, 4 dentato, reflexo; corolla coriacea,
viridi, rotata; stamina 4, hypogyna, gynobasi, maxima; carpellis 4,
aggregatis, 1, 3, fecundalis, globosis, atro-cyaneis, baccatis; stylis
lateralibus; semen 1, exalbumosum arbuscula mediocris; one Chrysobalanea?
one Ochnacea?

Yesterday they brought me a beautiful snake, Collo gracillimo, colore
pulchre fusco, maculis aterrimis, capite magno; {25} has all the
appearance of being venomous. To-day we passed another place for
catching fish: the water is prevented from escaping, (except at the place
where the current is naturally most violent,) by a dam composed of
bamboos, supported by triangles, from the centre of which hang heavy
stones: the fish are prevented passing down except at the above spot, and
here they are received on a platform of bamboo: the stream is so strong
through this point, that when once the fish have passed down they are
unable to return. One of these fish-traps on a larger scale exists below
Palampan.

The Karam debuts from the hills a little to the S. of east of Jingsha
Ghat: the chasm is very distinct. Temperature at 2 P.M. 87 degrees, at
sunset 76 degrees, 8 P.M. 68 degrees.

_Oct_. _21st_.--Left the Ghat about 9, and proceeded over the same
difficult ground down the Karam until we arrived at Laee Mookh. This
occupied about an hour; our course thence lay up the Laee, which runs
nearly due east. The bed of the river throughout the lower part of its
course is 60 or 70 yards across: the journey was as difficult as that on
the Karam. Towards 2 P.M. we were close to the hills, and the river
became contracted, not exceeding 30 or 40 yards across. It is here only
that large rock masses are to be found, but the boulders are in no case
immense. We arrived at the place of our encampment about 4 P.M., the
porters coming up much later. The march was in every respect most
fatiguing. Temperature about 6 A.M. 58 degrees, outside 57 degrees.
Water 60 degrees. Temperature of Laee at sunset 66 degrees. Of the air
71 degrees.

_Oct_. _22nd_.--Cloudy: during the night we were much annoyed by heavy
gusts of wind sweeping down the river. Left our encampment at 7.5, and
struck into the jungle, the porters still continuing along the course of
the river; after crossing some rising ground we reached a path, which is
tolerably good. Our course lay about N.E.; we crossed over some low
hills, and after marching for about an hour and a quarter, came upon the
Koond Chasm, or great defile; of which, however, from the thickness of
the jungle, we had no view. We then descended a very steep, but not very
high hill, and came upon the Koond; of which nothing is at first seen but
large masses of rock strewed in every direction. We were accompanied by
a number of Jingsha Gam's people, and in the evening we were visited by
Tapan Gam himself, with a train of followers. This man assumes the
sovereignty of the Koond. We encamped immediately under the Faqueer's
Rock, which is known to the Mishmees by the name "Taihloo Maplampoo." The
south bank is wooded to its brink, but not very densely: it is
excessively steep, and in many places almost perpendicular. The strata
composing it is partly limestone, lying at an angle of 45 degrees, and in
many places at a greater one. The scenery is picturesque and bold: on
either side of the river are hills rising abruptly to the height of a few
hundred feet, but the hills are continued longer on the north side. From
the Rock the river seems to run W.N.W. for a quarter of a mile, and then
bends to the S.W. The breadth of the bed is a good hundred yards, but
the stream at this season is confined to the fifty yards near the south
bank, the remainder being occupied by rocks in situ, or boulders and
sand: the edge of the N. bank is occupied by stunted _Saccharum_. The
appearance of the water is characteristic, of a greyish green tinge,
giving the impression of great depth. It is only here and there that it
is white with foam, its general course being rather gentle. It is in
various places encroached upon more or less by the rocks forming its bed,
some of which are quite perpendicular. A little to the west of the
Faqueer's Rock there is an immense mass of rock in the bed of the river,
between which and the south bank there is now very little water and no
current. The rocks are generally naked; here and there they are
partially clothed with Gramineae, and a Cyperaceous-looking plant,
something like an Eriophorum. The river, a short distance beyond the Deo-
panee, takes a bend to the north; at the point where it bends there is a
considerable rapid.

[Bramakhoond and Faqueer's Rock: p26.jpg]

The Faqueer's Rock itself is a loose mass of rugged outline, about 50
feet high: access to its summit is difficult to anybody but a Mishmee; it
is, however, by no means impracticable. The path by which it may be
gained, leads from the eastward. At the summit is an insulated, rounded,
rugged mass of rock, on which the faqueers sit. It is however the
descent by the path to the east which is difficult, and people generally
choose another path to the west. This rock is clothed with ferns
epiphytical Orchideae, an Arundo, and a few stunted trees are very common
at its summit. Between it and the hill is another much smaller mass, and
the intervening spaces are occupied by angular masses of rock. These
spaces both lead westward to that corner of the river into which the Deo-
panee falls. Eastward they lead to the margin of the bank.

The north face of the Faqueer's Rock is excavated into a hollow of the
Deo Dowar. It has no resemblance to a Gothic ruin, which form is, I
believe, peculiar to calcareous rocks. It is this rock which, by its
eastern extremity projecting into the water, forms the reservoirs into
which the Deo-panee falls, or rather at this season runs; the place
resembles merely a sort of bay. The water-mark of floods visible on some
of the rocks, is probably eight feet above that of this time of the year.
The reservoir is completed by a projection from the rocks forming the
south bank, but it is almost entirely abstracted from the stream. The
south bank immediately beyond this is extremely precipitous, and very
high. The Faqueer's Rock is three-peaked; two peaks can only be seen
from the Deo-panee, the third is the low one to the west, the middle is
the highest, and is perforated: the eastern represents a sugar-loaf
appearance. Two distinct streams run into the reservoirs, the bed of one
forms the second defile before alluded to: this is very insignificant.
The other occupies the corner of the bay, and can only be seen from a low
station on the sand beneath: it is an attempt at a small water-fall.

_Oct_. _23rd_.--To-day I have been employed in collecting plants. Nearly
due east of the Koond, and at a distance of about 40 yards, the face of
the hill is perpendicular, and in some places overhanging; its extremity
juts out into the stream, which here flows with great violence; the banks
are occupied by masses of rock strewed in every direction, resulting from
a landslip of great size: some of these masses are enormous. The greater
portion of the slip is clothed with herbage and trees, so that it is of
some age, or standing; but in one place over the river it is clean, as if
fresh formed, and white-looking much like chalk. This cliff in many
parts is a dripping well, particularly in one extremity where a good deal
of water falls. It is clothed with the Eriophorum, which hangs down in
long tufts; the moist parts with an Adiantum much like A. C. Veneris, a
beautiful Pteris, a Pothos or Arum foliis pulchre nigro tinctis, and some
mosses; B. speciosa out of flower, and some Hepaticae, Ruta albiflora,
etc. Between this and the Deo-panee a small stream enters the Lohit:
following this up to some height, one arrives at a pretty water-fall;
here it is inaccessible in this direction, but by following a branch of
the stream to the west, one may arrive at the summit of the hill, from
which however no view is to be obtained. The summit is ridge-like, and
excessively sharp; the descent on either side almost precipitous. I
found several fine ferns up this hill; at its base an Acer and fine
Equisetum.

[The Mori-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p27.jpg]

The Koond is apparently formed by the Deo-panee and Mori-panee. In the
rains it must be a rather striking object, now however it is at this
season, lost amidst the fine surrounding scenery. How the Faqueer's Rock
and the rock between it and the Mori-panee were detached, is difficult to
say. It is evident, however, that formerly the two rivers were not
united to form the Koond as at present, but that they had each their own
channels when the Faqueer's Rock must have stood between them. In fact
both channels, in which water has flowed, still remain. My broken
Thermometer pointed out the low temperature of the Lohit water, and 208
degrees was the point at which water boiled in two experiments. All
attempts at passing along the river on this side would be vain, owing to
a cliff which is totally impracticable. The Mishmees know of no rivulet
called the Mtee; probably this has been mistaken for the Mishmee name for
water, _Mchee_. The way Wilcox went I am at a loss to ascertain; as he
could not have passed the Koond, he must have gone above it; although the
hills are said to be impracticable for loaded coolies.

_Oct_. _25th_.--The Koond is obviously little frequented. I left
sometime after the coolies, pursuing the path leading to Ghaloom's, which
extends to the eastward. An hour and a quarter brought me again to the
Laee-panee, and three hours and a half to Laee Mookh: from this place to
Jingsha Ghat is scarcely an hour's walk. The day's journey occupied
about five hours inclusive of stoppages: the distance is probably about
twelve miles. I came to the determination of returning, owing to the
known difficulty of the route pursued by Wilcox, and the impossibility of
making a collection of grain. The Tapan Gam, or Lord of the Koond,
particularly insisted on the impossibility of ordinary coolies going this
way, and as he offered men to bring up grain from the plains, I at once
acceded to his proposal of making a granary in his village. This man had
no delicacy in asking for presents: he at once said, "You must give gold,
silver, and every thing in the calendar of presents to the Deo," meaning
himself. As I found it impracticable to satisfy him, I sent him off with
a small present, promising more when he should have amassed the grain.
His brother, a tall, stout, and much more useful man, (as he does not
refuse to carry loads,) on seeing me rub salt on a bird's skin, remarked,
"What poor devils we are! Bird's skins with salt supply the Sahibs with
food, while we can't get a morsel." They promised to take me all over
the country, and to be my slaves, if I would point out to them where salt
is to be found.

[The Deo-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p28.jpg]

I saw nothing particular in the woods. I picked up the fruit of a
Magnolia and Castanea, and observed an arborescent Leea. Some of the
timber is fine. A large Acrotirchea abounds between Laee and the Koond,
as well as Chloranthus. Near the Laee a climber, the base of whose stem
is elephantopoid and enormous considering the slender stem, is abundant.
I could not get any of the leaves. At the Koond, Buddleia Neemda, a
Prunus, etc. occur. Caelogyne polleniis 4 obovatis, faciebus
incumbentibus complanates materie pulverea, mediocri. Dundoons are
rather troublesome; they are flies, and nearly as large as an ordinary
house fly: their proboscis is large, and leaves spots of extravasated
blood where they bite, nearly of the size of an ordinary pin's head.

_Oct_. _27th_.--My people brought me in a beautiful snake, _Coluber_
_porphyraceus_, ventre albo, caeterum pulchre coccineo-badio, capite
lineis nigris tribus quarum centralis brevior, dorso lineis nigris duabus
postea gradatim evanescentibus, lineis circularibus minus conspicuis,
iridibus carneis. {29a}

_Oct_. _28th_.--Yesterday evening two elephants arrived with grain, so
that I have every prospect of being fairly on my way in a day or two.
Nothing worth seeing has occurred, except a man who by some accident had
the lobe of his ear torn, and had the fragments stitched together with
silver wire.

_Oct_. _31st_.--Halted at the Laee-panee, and gathered an Oberonea, and
specimens of fish. {29b}

_Nov_. _1st_.--Dirty weather; rain looking much as if it were going to
continue for several days. There is a small drupaceous fruit found here
and at Beesa, the Singfo name of which is Let-tan-shee; it is the produce
of a large tree probably the fruit of a Chrysobalanus, testibus stylo
_laterali_, stam, perigynis: cotyledonibus crispatis. The flavour is
acid, rather pleasant, and somewhat terebinthinaceous.

_Nov_. _2nd_.--I thought it best to set off, although it was raining
heavily. Our course lay in an E. direction up the Karam for about two
hours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavy
jungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it next
diverged again about 2 P.M., when we ascended a small hill; it continued
thence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in an
oblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found our
halting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, seven
hours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute the
distance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboo
jungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeae making their
appearance; _Camellia axillaris_ and some fine Acanthacea: the best
plant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day was
fine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived.

_Nov_. _3rd_.--Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite our
encampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep.
To the N.W. of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to this
time; on it two or three Phaeniceous palms may be found. Pandanus still
occurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towards
base.

_Nov_. _4th_.--Left Laee-panee at 9.5 A.M., and reached the encampment at
3.5 P.M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the last
encampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. The
first hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day's
journey consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult path
imaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they wind
round these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall.
About 1 P.M. we reached two or three houses constituting a village.

From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. pooter near
its exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered with
jungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies very
annoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichia
continues; _Wulfenia obliqua_, and a Companula were the best. At our
halting place I found the fruits of _Sedgwickia_ in abundance. Passed
two or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or rather
its very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, but
the acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; the
flowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminis
viridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis praesenti transverse,
antheris syngenesis. _Sarcocordalis_, common.

_Nov_. _5th_.--Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive _kheties_
(cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P.M. This place is
called Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: we
passed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave us
a fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, {31} S.E. of Upper Assam, which
reach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. The
exact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicate
Saccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improving
greatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceae occurring. I also
noticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and a
fine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Red
mountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance of
water-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: the
brink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable space
covered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45
degrees. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have the
idea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of a
certain size with large stones, some hills are again free from this
charm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stones
whenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear to
get dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two high
peaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichia
continues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are either
of rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to take
care of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latter
is probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanus
continues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma-
thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling is
the name of the place; a large mountain bearing N.N.E., is
Sun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, as
my site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. is
entirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N.N.E., by Sun-jong-thaya;
no B. pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom's house. The snow collects on
the Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on the
declivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although at
great distances from the village, are called _Yeu_.

_Nov_. _6th_.--We arrived at our halting place after a march of seven
hours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughout
the whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worse
road, if road it may be called--part of it lay over places where a false
step or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly on
the B. pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, we
prepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance we
had to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side was
impracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a most
difficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the river
sixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficult
and dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at the
same time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics of
Mishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble of
cutting down underwood.

We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we have
travelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The stream
of the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. It
has the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in some
places in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm,
very like U. virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I also
gathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of the
Lohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and is
perpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than any
of the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewed
on the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for the
indentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a good
Marchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanus
still continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera.
Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliff
almost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibres
and _reti_ of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which it
likewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is on
a fine bed of sand.

_Nov_. _7th_.--Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold in
the morning; we left at 9 A.M. and arrived at our encampment about 12
P.M. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in fact
consisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficulty
was increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one could
pass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. We
came to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time in
building a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some places
fordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifully
clear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it,
although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half a
minute. _Throughout the whole time_ the Mishmees use their legs
and arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclination
caused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection,
about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river,
and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after some
delay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung down
to its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at its
junction there is a large bay formed, on the N. side of which is a fine
sand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. and S., and is excessively
violent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery is
pretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is the
most romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We forded
the bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are to
follow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered some
fine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. The
Tapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path,
the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side of
the bay. {33} The course of the river, he says, has since changed by the
occurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate.

_Nov_. _8th_.--The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, the
ascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit we
could see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We then
proceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the _O_.
rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerable
height, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom's old dwelling. The
situation was delightful; to the N.E., a high range was visible, which is
covered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standing
out, in fine relief. To the N. was a noble peak bare at its summit, on
which snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked out
with numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. again the Tid-ding might
be seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving in
height and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o'clock, our
march having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a small
stream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom's former house stood,
called the Dhaloom Basee.

I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few low
elevations until we reached Ghaloom's, which we did about 2 P.M. A small
spot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which we
erected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing to
the death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthiness
of the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the place
he has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since his
removal. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khosha
visited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance is
somewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just as
dirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face.
Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khosha
himself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted,
he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present.
Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and that
Wilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botany
consisted of some fine Cyrtandraceae, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. One
of these Cyrtandraceae is very singular: the runners are long, producing
one stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower.
Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one,
bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquae; Pandanus Bambusa
continue. The fine Quercus is common, _Megala_, _Podomolia_, Triumfetta,
Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several other
low tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentia
postice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla?

_Nov_. _9th_.--Halted. Went to the suspension bridge over the Lohit,
which is about 60 yards across, or double the length of the one we
crossed on the 7th. The passage by Mishmees takes two, or two minutes
and a half, requiring continued exertion the whole time, both by hands
and feet, as above described. Both banks are very steep, yet the natives
are so confident of safety, that of this bridge only one cane is
trustworthy. Bathed in the river, which is very cold and deep, but
comparatively quiet.

_Nov_. _10th_.--Went to the Lohit, gathered Cymbidium giganteum, two or
three ferns, and a Rafflesia in its several stages. I have not however
yet seen the perfectly expanded flower, the natives do not know it,
although it must be a sufficiently striking object, the alabastri before
expansion are about the size of an orange. Went to Ghaloom's house,
which is of great length, built of bamboos, raised high from the ground,
divided into about twelve compartments, and containing 100 men, women,
and children.

_Nov_. _11th_.--Left for Khosha Gams; crossed the Lohit on a raft, and
left its banks at noon. Followed the river for some distance, and then
diverged towards the N.W. and reached Khosha at 3 P.M., the march owing
to the heat was very fatiguing. Found very few plants; noticed a flower
of a Ternstroemiacea nearly allied to the genus Camellia, cor. rotat.
lacin. reflexis, albis fauce carnea. stam. 00, epipet. anther. erectis-
apice dehiscent, and of a large Hibiscus; the Caelogyne of the Koond was
also found. Two species of Castaneae occur in these woods, one with very
stout thorns to its cupula, and not eatable fruit; the other has long
slender prickles, and its fruit about the size of an acorn, is eatable,
and not at all disagreeable. On all the hills of any height with grassy
tops Compositae are among the most striking forms. Areca parva
continues, Pentaptera, and Fici continue. Saccharum Megala very abundant
and fine. Cupuliferae are becoming more abundant. The roofs of the
houses which are built of bamboo, are covered with the leaves of the
Marantaceous genus--capitulis densis lateralibus _culmis_ I-foliosis.
Buddleia N'eemda and Callicarpa continue.

Want of means forms the only limit to the number of wives of a Mishmee. A
rich man who has at his disposal numerous cattle, etc, will give 20
_mithuns_; {35} but the wife appears to bring with her slaves, etc. as a
return. A poor man will get a wife for a pig. Whatever the number of
wives may be, each will have a separate khetee, (field) and each khetee
has a separate granary. All the wives live in the same house; in fact,
one house forms the village. Theft is punished by a fine inflicted by a
meeting of all the Gams; if the fine is not paid, or the offender refuses
to pay, he is slain in a general attack. Murder is punished in the same
way, but by a heavier fine: adultery against the consent of the husband,
or at least elopement, is punished by death; if with the consent of the
husband, the delinquent is fined. There appears to be no regular law of
succession: the favourite son succeeding without reference to age.

_Nov_. _12th_.--I went out for plants, and descended to the Paeen
rivulet, which is of small size: followed up its course some way, and
then returned over a low hill to Khosha's. The guide who was some
distance behind, came up with a Rafflesia bud. I returned with him, and
saw it to perfection; he likewise succeeded in tracing the roots to a
gigantic Cissus, the fruit of which I have before observed is eatable,
and not unlike a greengage. I returned home loaded with this undescribed
genus: I found likewise a fine Buddleia, and Menispermum, with some rare
Compositae, among which was an arborescent Eupatorium and a gigantic
thistle, a Prunus in flower and fruit, and a neat Liparis, Calamus, Tree-
fern, Tupistra, Pandanus, were likewise observed, and a beautiful
Viburnum, Corol sterilibus, 4 phyllis, foliis niveis carneo venosis:
petal fertil calyptratis, deciduis, intus caeruleo tinctis: staminibus
cyaneis, ovariis pallide caeruleis, stigmatib. carnosis.

_Nov_. _13th_.--Opposite Khosha's, or rather his granaries to the E. is a
high mountain excessively steep, only partially clothed with trees, and
with stunted ones at its summit, which in December and the colder months
is covered with snow: this they call Thaya-thro.

Khosha positively refuses to take me any farther into the interior, and
Krisong begs that I won't come and see him. It is obvious that they are
under great fear of other tribes. Khosha says, he should be attacked by
all the Mishoos or Mizhoos, were he to conduct me any farther now, and
that very probably the Lamas would attack him likewise. He says the only
chance of success in penetrating to Lama, is to send previously a present
of salt, (about a seer) to all the chiefs, and request their leave,
without which preparatory donation, they would cut up any messengers he
might send. He offers to do this at any time, and to let me know the
result. He declined taking me to the Chibong Gam, a few days' journey up
the Diree, although the man is a relation of his own, and a Deboro
Mishmee. It is obvious that there is no chance of getting further at
present, nor would it be fair even if one could bribe them. He says no
reliance whatever is to be placed on Rooling, the Mizhoo who deceived
Wilcox, and whom he represents to be an underhand person. I tried to
overcome his scruples by assuring him that I only wanted to go as far as
Rooling, but he declines taking me. He says I may go any where to the
west of this, but to the north he dare not conduct me. I shall therefore
go to Premsong to-morrow, and if that is not a favourable place, return
forthwith to Ghaloom's, and thence to Deeling to botanise on Thuma-thaya.

_Nov_. _14th_.--Proceeded to Premsong's, which we reached in less than
two hours. Our march was in a westerly direction across a hill of some
elevation: the remainder of it was over kheties and level ground. The
plants evidently increase in interest as we advance in the interior,
Compositae and Labiatae being most numerous. A large tree occurs not
uncommonly, which is either a Birch or a Prunus, most probably from the
venation of its leaves, the latter; the bark is exactly like that of a
Birch. Close to Premsong's I gathered a Clematis, Valerian and a fine
Botrychium, a Carex and a Cuscuta. The mountain on the base of which
Premsong's house is situated, is a very high one; it is the one that is
so striking from Ghaloom's old site: it is named Laimplan-thaya; its
summit, which is a high peak, is very rugged, partially clothed with
vegetation, in which, as in all the others of the same height autumnal
tints are very distinct. Thai-ka-thaya is a smaller peak to the S.S.W.
of Premsong's house. One of my Mishmee Dowaniers tells me that the
Mishmee (Coptis) teeta Khosha gave me last evening, is cultivated near
his native place; its flower buds are just forming and are enclosed in
ovate concave squamae. The leaves are of a lively green, not unlike
those of some ferns, but at once to be distinguished by the venation; it
is very evident that the Mishmees know nothing about the period of its
flowering, as they told me it flowered in the rains, at the same time as
the _dhak_ flowers in Assam; the radicles are numerous, tawny yellowish,
the rhizomata are rugged tortuous, the bark and pith are of yellow orange
colour, the woody system gamboge: this is the same in the petioles: it
tinges the saliva yellow. It is a pure intense bitter of some
permanence, but without aroma: it is dried over the fire, the drying
being repeated three times. Judging from it in its fresh state, the test
of its being recently and well dried is the permanence of the colors. The
_Bee_ flowers during the rains: its flower, (_on dit_) is white and
small; they pretend that it is very dangerous to touch, causing great
irritation; both Coptis teeta, and Bee, are found on high hills on which
there is now snow; one of them, the Ummpanee or Moochee, is accessible
from hence in three days.

The Mishmee name for the Teeta, is _Yoatzhee_; of Bee, _Th'wee_; _Ghe_-
_on_ is the Mishmee name for the smelling root, which the Assamese call
Gertheon. The smell of this is a compound of Valeriana and Pastinaca; it
is decidedly aromatic, and not at all disagreeable, it is white inside
and abounds in pith, but has scarcely any taste.

Yesterday evening I visited Khosha's house, which is of immense length,
and considerably longer, though not so high from the ground as Ghaloom's:
it is divided into upwards of twenty apartments, on the right hand side
of the passage are ranged the skulls of the cattle Khosha has killed,
including deer and pigs; on the other side are the domestic utensils, the
centre of the floor is occupied by a square earthen space for fire-place:
the bamboos, of which the floor is composed being cut away. From the
centre of each room over the fire-place, hangs a square ratan sort of
tray, from which they hang their meat or any thing requiring smoke; their
cooking utensils are, I believe, confined to one square stone vessel,
which appears to answer its purpose remarkably well. The women appear to
have no shame; they expose their breasts openly, which from their dirty
habits by no means correspond with the exalted character of the sex. On
hills to the N.E. of Khosha's first residence, forests are very visible,
descending far down the sides.

On an open spot a little distance from Premsong's, there is a fine view
of the course of the Lohit, and of the more remote (now) snowy ranges.
The hills beyond this exactly answer to Wilcox's description, being very
high, and all descending as it were unbroken to the Lohit.

Went out for about two hours over a tolerably level portion of the hill,
covered with Artemesia; found abundance of interesting plants, Crawfurdia
campanulacea, a Clematis, Acer, Prunus, Camellia axillaris, Cyathea,
Myrica, Rhus, Sedgwickia, Polygala, Galium: and a beautiful very fragrant
climbing Composita.

Great part of the side of the hill is covered with a small hard bamboo,
which forms excellent walking sticks. An Urticea foliis peltatis, was
among the novelties. The Paeen Panee forms the nearest ravine. The
Polygonum, paniculis densissimis, is a certain indication of some
elevation. I observed Calamus, and Torenia asiatica. There is likewise
a large Mimoseous plant, which we found in fruit.

_Nov_. _15th_.--Spent the greater part of the day attempting to reach the
summit of Laim-planj-thaya, but my guide did not know the way. We
ascended for upwards of four hours, slowly of course, but were still a
long way from its summit. The face of the mountain is entirely occupied
by woods, with but little underwood. Found abundance of plants, chiefly
ferns, only saw 4 Orchideae, of which 2 were in flower. The novelties
were a Polygonatum, Camellia, and Quercus lamellata.

I observed no less than 5 Araliaceae, of which I succeeded in getting 4:
an Acer, probably that from Brahma Koond: and several _incertae_. Near
Premsong's the varnish tree was shewn to me, it is obviously a species of
Rhus. The Assamese name of the varnish plant is _Ahametta Gas_. I
took specimens of it in fruit.

They obtain the juice by ringing, and the only two specimens I observed
were evidently well drained: no preparation is required for the varnish;
and it is applied one day, the next day is hard; it has a fine polish,
and is of an intense black. It is the same probably with two small trees
I had previously seen in Capt. Charlton's garden at Suddyah. Kydia
continues; a fine Palm, caudex 8-10-pedali; it probably belongs to the
genus Wallichia? Camellia is only found towards the top; the Polygonatum
also does not descend far. I saw also species of an undescribed
Bucklandia, likewise one specimen which had been damaged: the capituli
pluriflori. Towards the middle a small bamboo becomes plentiful; the
lower joints, from which no branches proceed, are armed with a
verticillus of spines. I did not observe Pandanus, but it is used for
constructing large mats: Megala continues, but not up the hill.

_Nov_. _16th_.--Attempted to ascend Laim-planj-thaya by the Paeen rivulet
which proceeds from the centre, but after proceeding about half an hour
we found our progress effectually stopped by a water-fall, the sides of
the stream being so precipitous as to render all idea of clambering over,
or proceeding round ridiculous. Gathered two or three rare ferns, and a
pretty Lobelia. On our return through the open grassy parts near
Premsong's, we found a fine Choripetalum and Crawfurdia campanulacea,
beautifully in flower; the flower is rose-coloured. Anthistiria
arundinacea, the same Sambucus found at Suddya, Solanum 10 dentatum, a
Kydia and Torenia continue.

_Nov_. _17th_.--Left and returned to Khosha's, as we were all out of
rice, and it was impossible to get anything in Premsong's absence. The
march on return occupied us about two hours, but the path was so
excessively slippery, owing to the grass not being cut away on either
side and to the dry weather and heat, that our progress was very slow.
Noticed Lactuca exalata and a Rottlera on the road; more snow has fallen
on the hills E.N.E. The descent on returning, owing to the slippery
state of the roads, was more fatiguing than the ascent. Hedychium
angustifolium I also observed on the road.

I have as yet observed the following grains used by the Mishmees. 1st,
Oriza, rice; variety of this called _Ahoo Da_; 2nd, a species of
Eleusine, _Bobosa_; 3rd, Zea Mays, _Gorm_ dan; 4th, Panicum Panicula
nutanti, densa clavata. 5th, _Konee_, Chenapodium sp. panicula simili.

The Mishmee names are as follow: _Dan-khai_ rice; _khai hoo_,
_bobosa_, _Mdo_.-_zea_, _or Maize_, _Ma-bon-konee-yo_
Chenopodium; _Thenna_, a kind of Polygonum; _Hubra-Aloo_,
_Ghee-kuchoo-shoom_, Sweet potato; _Gaihwan_, Plantain; _Puhee_
_Dhoonhwa_, Tobacco. They likewise cultivate Sesamum.

_Nov_. _18th_.--Found more of the Rafflesiacea on low hills along the
Paeen; it was attached to the roots of the same species of Cissus, on
which it was found before. {40} I also gathered a Euonymus and a fine
Engelhardtia. The hairs of the fruits of Engelhardtia create a
disagreeable itching. All the Mishmees decline shewing me the road a
foot in advance of this place. I tried every way I could think of, to
overcome their objections, but to no purpose. They have so little regard
for truth, that one cannot rely much on what they say: I begin to think
that it is all owing to the Tapan Gam, who I suspected was insincere in
his professions.

_Nov_. _19th_.--Yesterday evening Premsong arrived, he is a man about 35,
the best looking of all the Gams: but has rather a cunning Jewish face.
The brandy I gave him made him at first wonderfully obliging, for he
seemed disposed to enter into my views. This morning however he came
with Khosha and Tapan, by whom it was at once obvious that he has been
overruled; not only will he not take me to the Lama _Dais_ (plains,) but
he won't even shew me the road to Truesong's, a Digaroo, whose village is
only distant about five days' journey. Premsong I know wishes to go,
induced by the promise of 200 Rs. but he is afraid of incurring the
displeasure of Khosha, etc. I shall therefore return towards Deeling,
and devote a few days to botanising on Thuma-thaya.

_Nov_. _20th_.--Returned to Ghaloom's: gathered the Martynia, finely in
flower, and observed the Rafflesiacea along the banks of the Lohit.

_Nov_. _21st_.--Halted at Ghaloom's, the Rafflesiacea is found all about,
anth. bilocular, apice poro-gemino dehiscent, pollen simplex, materie
viscosa cohaerenti, ovula antitropa, tegumento unico. Made every
arrangement with Premsong. According to this Gam we are to go up the
Diree, and then cross over high mountains, leaving the Lohit entirely. He
says the Lamas wear trowsers, socks and shoes, and that they dress their
hair _a la mode Chinoise_; their houses are built on posts, and
raised from the ground: they erect forts like the Chinese, and have
plenty of fire-locks. They have also abundance of cattle, consisting of
about seven kinds, but no _Mithuns_; and three sorts of Horses, which
alone they use as beasts of burden. Their staple food is Ahoodan. The
_Mithun_ of the Mishmees appears to me intermediate to a certain degree
between the Bison and the wild Bull; their head is very fine, and as well
as the horns that of a Bull, but their neck and body have, so to say, the
same awkward conformation as those of the buffalo. I have not seen a
large living one; the largest head I saw was three feet from tip to tip
of the horns, the diameter of the forehead being probably about one-third
of the above.

_Nov_. _22nd_.--Returned to Loong Mockh. I cannot reconcile Wilcox's
description of Ghaloom's old site with the reality, because the scenery
is decidedly fine, embracing the Tidding, and the (in comparison with the
near surrounding hills) gigantic Laim-planj-thaya, which from this
presents the appearance of a vast cone with a peaked summit. Premsong's
village is obviously at a considerable elevation. Found another
Acrostichum, a Bolbophyllum, a rare Aristolochia foliis palmatis, 7
lobis, subtus glaucis; sapor peracerbus, floribus _siphonicis_. The
Huttaya I have not seen: it occurs at a greater distance in the mountains
than I have been. In addition to the plants I have gathered, Asplenium
nidus it very common. Tradescantia and Camelina both occur; Ricinus also
occurs, the Mishmees do not however put it to any use; Melica latifolia
is common on some of the hills. Anthistiria arundinacea occurs in
abundance. Likewise a small Areca and Chloranthus.

It is at Ghaloom's old site that these hills commence putting on an
interesting appearance, those previously seen, excepting however Thuma-
thaya, being entirely covered with tree jungle; but beyond this site, the
lower spaces unoccupied by jungle become much more numerous. The Mishmee
word for bitter, is _Khar_. Query--why should not the name of the plant
Coptis teeta, be changed to Coptis amara, although the species of the
genus Coptis are probably all bitter? Sauraussa and Bombax both occur at
Ghaloom's, as well as Pentaptera; Sesamum is used for oil.

I should have mentioned the top of the hill, surmounted in going
immediately from Loong Panee towards Ghaloom's, is occupied almost
entirely by a species of Fraxinus.

On my arrival at Ghaloom's on the 20th, I found that the coolies had
played me the same trick as they had done previously, though not to such
an extent. Instead of each man having 20 days' provisions, scarcely one
had more than 5 or 6: as they had 20 days' given them in addition to that
they would require on the road, it is obvious they must have thrown much
away. Were all the Gams disposed to take one to Lama, it could not be
done with Assamese coolies and, above all, Seerings or Ahooms are the
very worst; and although often good sized men, they are very deficient in
strength. Nagas and Mishmees are the best, then Kamptees.

I gave before leaving a packet of salt to Premsong, according I suppose
to their own custom of proceeding. Yesterday he went to Roomling,
Krisong's eldest son, and gained his consent. I mention this to shew how
active he is. He is a friend of the Dupha's, {42} and to my surprise,
told me he saw Capt. Hannay at Hookhoom, who gave him a jacket, and tried
to induce him to shew him the road to Suddiya. He is certainly the best
of all the Gams, and appears to be very liberal.

_Nov_. _23rd_.--Arrived at Deeling after a tedious march of 8 hours: we
did not traverse the two cliffs near the Lohit, but pursued a longer, but
more commodious cattle path: our Mishmees, however, preferred the shorter
one. Gathered Sabia, Martynioidea, Alsophila, Menispermum at Paeen in
fine flower. At Ghaloom's old site a large Euphorbia fol obovatis, ramis
4 angulato-alatis occurs, and Cymbydium giganteum in fine flower. _En_
_route_ hither I noticed the following; Bauhinia, Hoya, Urtica gigas,
Mucuna, Curculigo, Panax, foliis supra-decompositis, Dalbergia, Laurus,
Abroma, Lactuca exaltata, Uncaria, Siegesbeckia, Megala, _Podo-Molee_,
and a species subscandent of bamboo, internodiis vix cylindricis,
gracilibus; this is of great use where it occurs, in assisting one's
ascent and descent.

_Nov_. _24th_.--Left about 11 for Thuma-thaya: we first descended the
Dissoo ravine, then up a very steep hill, the top of which was
cultivated, then descended and crossed another stream, the remainder of
our march consisting almost entirely of an uninterrupted steep ascent:
during our progress we gained partial views of the Plains and the Naga
Hills, but on crossing a high ridge on which I observed Betula Populus?
Rhododendrum arboreum, the view to the East and West was very fine. That
to the W. embracing the greater part of the plains about Suddiya and the
Abor Hills, stretching along to S.W. the more distant Naga Hills. The
Lohit could be traced for an immense way, the Dihong, Dibong, Digaroo,
Dihing were all partially visible. To the N.E. Thegri-thaya was finely
seen, then some rugged peaks among which Laim-planj was conspicuous. It
embraced the course of the Lohit, at least its right bank, ridge
surmounting ridge: the loftier ones tipped with snow; and lastly it was
closed by a huge wall, all covered with snow, especially its peaks,
stretching away to the N. From this we descended to Yen, where, as
usual, I took up my quarters in a granary. During the latter portion of
the journey, I gathered a Passiflora? Lobelia two species, a Scitaminea,
Spiraea, and a curious aromatic plant, pedunculis bracteae adnatis,
bracteis, coloratis, petal videis.

Codonopsis, etc. Dicksonia, stipitibus atris 3 canaliculatis, frondibus
amplis, 10 pedalibus; in fine fructification; this is the same with the
Manmoo plant. I observed likewise an arborescent Sambucus, a Bonnaya, a
huge Begonia: Coix was seen cultivated.

_Nov_. _25th_.--Spent the day in botanising. Gathered Adamia, some fine
ferns, a bamboo, spiculis dense congestis, bracteis scariosis
interspersis, and Schizosfachyum, Nees ab E. etc.

Another and much finer species of the Fumariaceous genus, I found on Laim-
planj, Deutzia, a rare Quercus, a fine species of Antonia, (Br.) in
fruit, a Bartramia, Trematodon, Neckera, etc., noticed a fruit something
similar to that of Combretum, allis 2 maximis, 2 minimis: cotyledonibus
haemisphaericis.

Saurauja, Prunus: 3 species of Aralia, Castanea, Quercus, etc. A species
of Panicum is here cultivated; the Assamese know it by the name Cheena, 3
species of Polygonatum, including that from Laim-planj, one foliis
carnosis oppositis. 2 species of Begonia, making altogether six. The
Amaranthacea of Deeling is here found extensively, it often assumes the
form of a climber of considerable size. Musa farinosa grows to a great
size, 20 to 25 feet. Bambusa in flower has stems about two inches in
diameter. Sterculia flowers were observed on the ground. In the
afternoon it rained slightly. This is the coldest place I have visited
on these hills: in the evening and earlier parts of the night there is a
very cold draught down Thuma-thaya.

The Anthistiria found on the more elevated portions of these hills, is
probably different from that of the plains. Urticea are here found in
abundance.

_Nov_. _26th_.--This morning the atmosphere being beautifully
transparent, very high land plentifully sprinkled with snow was visible
to the N.W. by W., and to the N.W. a slight peep of the Himalayas was
gained. Started at 9, and commenced the ascent; we arrived at our
halting place at 11.5. The greater part of the march was a steep ascent
through dry woods, the ground being very slippery owing to the leaves.
Bucklandia occurs in abundance and of a large size, and attains a much
greater height than Sedgwickia: found many interesting plants and a small
Conifera, probably an Araucaria or a Taxus.

I continued the ascent until about 12, but the scene had totally changed;
the whole face of the mountain on the S. side being entirely destitute of
trees, and in many places quite naked. The ascent was not very
difficult, and occupied a little more than an hour. This acclivity is
chiefly occupied by Graminea, all past flowering, all adhering very
firmly to the rock, which is quartzose and greyish blue outside,
excessively angular: Gentianeae 2: a beautiful Campanula, Hypericum,
Viburnum, Spiraea, Bryum Neckera, Pteris, Scabiosa, some Compositae, one
or two Vaccinioidea, and a curious shrubby Rubiacea evidently a Serissa,
were observed. The top, which represents a ridge, is partially wooded,
the trees being the continuation or rather termination of the jungle that
covers the whole northern face of the mountain. Here I saw Bucklandia, a
Pomacea, Crawfurdia, Deutzia, Cynaroidea, Viburna 2, some ferns.
Brachymeum, Neckera, Lichens several: a Caryophyllea and a Berberis.

All these were somewhat stunted. The various views were beautiful,
embracing a complete panorama, but unfortunately obscured towards Lama by
trees. The Lohit was seen extensively from the Koond to Ghaloom's, and
to the plains to an immense distance. The whole range of Abor Hills and
a great portion of the Naga, some of which appeared very high, were
likewise seen: to the S.E. high ridges not far distant and covered with
snow, limited the view; slight snow was visible on the peak seen from
Suddiya. The descent was very tedious owing to the excessive
slipperiness of the grass: it was dangerous, because a slip would have
frequently dashed you to pieces, and in all cases would have hurt one
severely.

_Nov_. _27th_.--Descended to Yen: near our halting place we gathered a
fine Pomacea arborea in fruit: a Symplocos, and observed Wallichioideae
and Calamus. The plants of the greatest interest gathered were an Acer,
an Epilobium, a Hoya grandiflora, Eurya, Hypericum, a fine Arundo,
Bucklandia: Cotoneaster microphylla, a Sabia, Coriaria, Abelia? a rare
Dipodous Orchidea of the same genus as a dwarf plant of the Cossiya
Hills. Rhododendron, scandesent Eleodendron.

The ascent for the greater part is a steep wooded ridge; the first change
indicated or induced by elevation is the diminution of the size in the
trees, and the frequent occurrence of a Betulus? out of flower.
Proceeding onward one comes to a ridge, the S.E. declivity of which is
nearly naked, the opposite being wooded with shrubs, Viburnum, Conaria,
Mespilus, Pomacea, Rhododendron, Rubiacea Serissa, Cupulifera and some
Compositae occur. Then Arbutus Vaccinium; Nardus: Filix cano-tomentosa,
Lycopodium; Dicranum atratum; one or two Hypna, a Bryum, and Neckera
fusca. Descending slightly from thence the ridge is observed to be
wooded on both sides; it is at the termination of this that we halted.
The ascent is continued up a rock, and the whole of the mountain is,
excepting the ravines, covered with Graminea, Cyperacea, Filix
cano-tomentosa, etc. but the Ericoidea are not so fine. The grasses of
the summit are two Andropogons: an Arundo Festucoidea, Panicum, Isachne,
Nardus ceasing below, it is towards this that Crepis? and Campanula are
common.

The Ceratostemmata are found towards the summit, none descend any
distance, except one of Roxburgh's; they are all generally epiphytes.
Orchidea become more common towards the halting place; beyond this I
observed only two past flowering, one Habenaria, and a Malaxidea; the
others are two Caelogyne, a Dipodious Orchidea, labelli ungue sigmoideo
very common, a Bolbophyllum, and a few ditto epiphytes out of flower, one
terrestrial Bletioidea is common in some places. At our halting place, I
observed an arborescent Araliacea, a Cissus, an Acanthacea and a
Laurinea. A little below, Pandanus occurs here and there, and attains a
large size, the largest in fact I have ever seen. Castanea occurs about
half way up, it is that species with rigid compound spines to the cupula.
I gathered also a fine Geastrum, but the specimens are lost. Bucklandia
occurs extensively; it is a distinct species owing to its many flowered
capitula; Sedgwickia comes into play towards Yen, where Bucklandia
appears to become scarce: a large Vitex floribus roseo-purpureis is the
most conspicuous tree of all, it ceases towards the summit; Cyathea I
observed only above half way. Camellia axillaris occurs below, but I
missed the Laim-planj plant. I may here observe that almost all plants
with red flowers, at least in this quarter, are acid: the Assamese always
appear to expect this, the proofs are Loranthus, Ceratostemma, and
Begonia, in which red is generally a predominant colour.

Antrophyllum I noticed about Yen; towards Yen, I diverged from the path
to visit the place whence the stones are procured, which the Mishmees use
as flints for striking lights: this stone is found on the S. Western face
of the mountain: the stones or noduli are frequently sub-crystalline, and
are imbedded in a sort of micaceous frangible rock: they are very common,
of very different sizes, with glassy fracture; the best are hard; the bad
easily frangible, their weight is great. The inclination of this bed is
considerable; overlying it at an inclination of 45 degrees, is the grey
quartzose rock which forms the chief part, and perhaps nearly the whole,
of the mountain. The Mishmee name for the noduli is _Mpladung_.

In the jungle at Yen occurs a huge Palm evidently Caryota, foliis maximis
supra decompositis; the diameter of the trunk is 1.5 to 2 feet. It is
said to die after flowering: the natives use the central lax structures
as food. The Yen Gam promises to send me specimens to-morrow. The Palms
I have hitherto seen are Wallichia, one or two Calami: Wallichioidia
trunco 5-10 pedali, and a Phaenicoidea, but this I only saw at the foot
of the mountains near Laee Panee, and the small Areca common about
Negrogam. The name of the large Palm in Assamese is _Bura Sawar_. All
the plants common to these and the Cossiya mountains, with one or two
exceptions, flower much earlier here, those being all past flowering
which I gathered in flower on the Cossiya hills in November last. This
is owing to the greater cold, and the consequent necessity for the plants
flowering at an earlier and warmer period.

A species of ruminant, or, according to the native account, a species of
Pachydermata called the _Gan Pohoo_, occurs on Thuma-thaya. At the
summit of the mountain the ground was in one place rooted up, the
Mishmees said, by this animal, which they describe as a large Hog, but
which I should rather take to be a kind of Deer.

_Nov_. _28th_.--Returned to Deeling. At the commencement of the
principal descent we gathered Betula and another Cupulifera, both
moderately sized trees. Anthestina arundinacea, is about this place very
common, and an Andropogon, Culmis ramosis which I had previously brought
from the Abor hills. About half way down by a present of _kanee_
(opium), I succeeded in getting the arborescent vitex, which is the most
striking tree of all when in flower. Lost sight altogether of
Bucklandia, nor did I observe Sedgwickia. Gathered at the foot of Thuma-
thaya a Caelogyne in flower, allied to C. Gardneriana; Alsophila is
common towards the base.

In the evening the Yen Gam came up according to his promise with the
gigantic Palm, with male inflorescence, it is a Caryota; he likewise
brought Sarcocordalis, Rafflesiacea, and a curious pubescent Piper. He
also added the female flowers of another Palm, which, according to him,
is another species of _Sawar_, or Caryota: the inflorescence is of an
orange yellow. A tree with the habit of Pterospermum occurs on Thuma-
thaya, low down Habenaria uniflora on rocks in the Dirsoo Panee, or
river; Kydia occurs about Yen, but not higher.

_Nov_. _29th_.--Reached Laee Panee after a march of five hours; and
without Assamese coolies, it might be done in three. I noticed below
Deeling, but still at a considerable elevation, Crawfurdia campanu lacea,
Adamea, Engelhardtia, Vitex speciosa, and Magnolia in the order in which
they are thus given, Quercus, cupulis echinatis occurs comparatively low
down, Castanea ferox still lower, Dracaena comes into view towards the
base. At the village first reached in the ascent there is a Meliaceous
Azedarach looking tree.

At our old halting place, and which is near Deeling, another
_Ahum-metta Ghas_ was shewn me. This attains, I am told, a large
size: it is not very unlike in habit a Melanorrhaea, and its young leaves
are tinged with red, the mature ones are coriaceous. I have not seen it
in flower; the juice, at least from small branches, is not very abundant,
and at first is of a whitish colour; it is, _on dit_, after drying that
it assumes the black tint; at any rate it is excessively acrid, for one
of my servants who cut it incautiously, had his face spoilt for a time:
the swelling even after four days had elapsed was considerable. With
this as well as the Rhus they dye the strings of the simple fibres of
_Sawar_, which they all wear below the knee: if not properly dried these
strings cause some inflammation: the strings are ornamental, light, and
when worn in small numbers graceful, but when dozens are employed, and
all the upper ones loose, they deform the figure much; some of the women,
perhaps anxious to restrain the protuberance of their calves, tie two or
three lightly across the calf.

At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, _baccis_ cyaneis occurs here
the same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya.

_Nov_. _30th_.--Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam's hands,
amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a long
sword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming into
flower, Calyce aestiv. valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheras
longe producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyenia
coccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Baehmeria?) foliis
subtus candidis is common.

_Dec_. _1st_.--Reached the Tapan Gam's after a sharp march of four hours.
We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered _en route_ 4
new Acanthaceae, not previously met with on this trip, among which is a
beautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fine
Aristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom's, but at once
distinct by its ferruginous pubescence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium not
before met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behaved
very handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given five
kuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes,
which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus,
margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba,
postice lutescens.

Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens of
Pentaptera, the Hool-look of the Assamese, the timber of which is used
for large canoes; and Lagerstraemia grandiflora occurs on the banks of
the Kussin Panee.

CHAPTER III.

_Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack_
_Districts_, _Upper Assam_.

_Dec_. _2nd_.--Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and Karam
Panee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banks
of the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and an
arborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellis
densissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. The
caudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equally
furnished with strong black bristly radicles towards its base.

_Dec_. _3rd_.--Left for Husa Gam's about 9, and arrived at the village
which is on the Kampai of the Singfos, Tup-pai of the Mishmees about 4.5
P.M. The first part of our march was to the E. up the Karam, we then
traversed for a long way heavy jungle in a S. direction, and then came on
the dry bed of the Kampai, up which we ascended to the village. Found a
Ruellioidea, _Cyananthus_, _mihi_. _Oom_ of the Assamese, with which the
Kamptees dye their black blue cloths. Noticed an arborescent Araliacea
inermis, foliis supra decomposita; panicule patentissima. The Husa Gam
treated us very handsomely forming a striking contrast with the Mishmees;
he declares positively that no tea exists in this direction; I shall
therefore proceed direct from Luttora to Beesa. Roxburghia occurred on
the route. The village is on the left bank of the river: the direction
from Jingsha's being about N.W.

_Dec_. _4th_.--Reached Luttora after an easy march of three hours and a
half, for the most part along an excellent path. We passed the following
villages _en route_ Chibong, Wakon, Mtarm, and Mcyompsan: three of
which are of some size; none however so large as Nsas. This is the
largest Singfo village I have seen, and probably contains 400 people.
This village and all the others are situated on high ground, the ascent
from the Kampai being probably 70 feet. The country consists of level,
apparently good soil, with here and there broadish ravines in which
bamboos are abundant. Cultivation is common, and of considerable extent.
On a similar eminence is situate Luttora, and it has been well chosen,
for on both sides that I approached it, the ascent is steep and capable
of being easily defended; the south side is bounded by the Ponlong Panee,
which runs into the Tenga Panee. If any ascent it is an easy one, and
must be to the westward; to the north, there is a small stream, but
neither this, Ponlong or Tenga are any thing but mere rills, which may be
easily leaped over in the dry seasons. Our route from Nsas was to the W.
of south. No stockades appear to exist in this quarter.

Luttora is not so large as Nsas; formerly the Luttora Gam was the chief
of all this soil, but he has been partly deserted by two bodies of men
who have respectively chosen Nsas and Htan-tsantan.

The Gam visited me in the evening at our halting place on the Ponlong; he
is a large, coarse, heavy-looking man, nearly blind, and excessively
dirty. He proposed of himself to me, to become the Company's ryott in
accordance with the wish, he said, of the Dupha Gam; but when I told him
he ought to send or go to the Suddiya Sahib, or Political Agent, he said
he wanted to see the Dupha first: he was accompanied by a very loquacious
oldish man, who had just returned from Hook-hoom, to which place he had
gone with the Dupha. They left apparently not much pleased at my being
empty handed.

_Dec_. _5th_.--Left at 6.5, reached the Muttack Panee about 8.5, having
come through much heavy bamboo jungle; we then ascended the dry bed of
the Muttack, and ascended after some time the Minaboom. This was most
tedious, as we continued along the ridge for two hours; we then commenced
our descent, but did not reach the Meera Panee much before 1 P.M. Down
this we came here, and then along some curious chasms in the sandstone,
and encamped about 3. The difference of soil between the Minaboom and
the Mishmee hills is most obvious; on the N.E. declivity there is much
soil; but on the opposite side little but rounded stones which supply the
place of soil, and in places we saw nothing but sandstone conglomerate?
or indurated soil with many boulders imbedded in it, and a blackish
greasy clay slate; while on the Mishmees, on the contrary, all is rock,
hard and harsh to the touch; or where loose stones do occur on the face
of the hills, they are all angular. The vegetation of sandstone is
likewise far more varied; and that of the Meera Panee district, abounds
in ferns, among which is Polypodium Wallichianum. The Tree-fern of
Kujing I observed in the Muttack, Sedgwickia in Minaboom, two
Magnoliaceae, one bracteis persistent, induratis, and a Dipterocarpus.
The chief vegetation of the ridge consists of grasses, among which bamboo
holds a conspicuous place. A Begonia was common along the Muttack. The
Meera Panee would well repay a halt of two or three days.

At our halting place we met four Burmese, despatched by the Maum, {51}
who has arrived at Beesa on a visit to the Luttora Gam.

_Dec_. _6th_.--Reached Beesa after a sharp march of six hours. Our
course lay at first down the Meera Panee; here I observed more of the
Polypodium Wallichianum, which is common throughout the Singfo hill
country, and appears to be used as grog, at least the juice of the
petioles. We then diverged to the westward through heavy jungle, and the
remainder of our march consisted of uninteresting dense jungle, water-
courses, and excessively low places. Observed Sabia in some of the
jungles; the only interesting plants gathered were an Impatiens and two
or three Acanthaceae. About 2.5 P.M. we came on the Noa Dihing, which
is now nearly dry, the water having flowed into the Kamroop. No boat,
not even a dak boat, can come near Beesa. It is obvious that this river
here never presented any depth, both banks being very low; the bed
consists of small hard boulders.

_Dec_. _7th_, _8th_.--Halted at Beesa.

_Dec_. _9th_.--Started for the Naga village, at some distance, and

_Dec_. _10th_.--Left for Kujoo or Khoonlong, which we reached about 1,
after a march of five hours. At 10, we arrived at Dhoompsan or Thoompsa,
a large village with extensive cultivation. The remainder of our march
was through heavy jungle, many parts of which were very low, and crowded
with a fierce Calamus. The higher parts abound in a Dipterocarpus, and
two Castaneae. I found many fine ferns, all of which however we
collected last year. Chrysobaphus, not uncommon. Apostasia rare.

_Dec_. _11th_.--Visited the tea in the old locality at Nigroo. No steps
have been taken towards clearing the jungles, except perhaps of tea. The
Gam tells me, that the order for clearing was given to Shroo, Dompshan,
and Kumongyon, Gams of three villages near the spot. Noticed Dicksonia
_en route_, so that we must have passed it last year. AEsculus also
occurs here.

_Dec_. _12th_.--Arrived at Kugoodoo after an easy march of two hours and
a half. At 12, went to see the tea which lies to the S.S.W. of the
village, and about ten minutes' walk to the W. of the path leading to
Negrogam, and which for the most part runs along an old bund road. After
diverging from this road we passed through some low jungle, which is
always characterised by Calamus Zalaccoideus; and then after traversing
for a short time some rather higher ground, came on the tea. This patch
is never under water; there is no peculiarity of vegetation connected
with it. It runs about N. and S. for perhaps 150 yards by 40 to 50 in
breadth. The Gam had cleared the jungle of all, except the larger trees
and the low _herbaceous underwood_, so that a _coup d'oeil_ was at
once obtained, and gave sufficient evidence of the abundance of the
plants, many of which were of considerable size, and all bore evidence of
having been mutilated. They were for the most part loaded with flowers,
and are the finest I have seen in the Singfo country. Young buds were
very common, nor can I reconcile this with the statement made by the Gam,
that no young leaves will be obtainable for four months. From the
clearing, the plants are exposed to moderate sun; it is perhaps to this
that the great abundance of flowers is to be attributed. The soil, now
quite dry at the surface, is of a cinereous grey; about a foot below it
is brown, which passes, as you proceed, into deeper yellow; about four
feet deep, it passes into sand. No ravines exist, and mounds only do
about a few of the larger trees. The soil as usual is light, friable,
easily reduced to powder, and has a very slight tendency to stiffness.

_Dec_. _13th_.--Left for the Muttack: our course lay through dense
jungle, principally of bamboo, and along the paths of wild elephants;
these beasts are here very common. We halted after a march of seven
hours on a small bank of the Deboro; the only plant of interest was my
Cyananthus in flower.

_Dec_. _14th_.--Continued through similar jungle along the Deboro; bamboo
more frequent. About 2 P.M. we left the undulating hillocks, and the
jungle became more open. At 4, we reached Muttack, but had still to
traverse a considerable distance before we halted at Kolea Panee. We
crossed the Deboro _en route_; no particular plant was met with. I
shot two large serpents, _Pythons_; one 8, and the other 10 feet long.
The Kolea Panee is of some width, but is fordable.

_Dec_. _15th_.--After marching for about seven hours, halted at a small
village. The country passed over was, like most of this part of Muttack,
open, consisting of a rather high plain covered with grasses, T. sperata,
Saccharum, and Erianthus, with here and there very swampy ravines; the
soil is almost entirely sandy, light at the surface; the yellow tint
increasing with the depth, which is considerable. Crossed the Deboro by
a rude wooden bridge. I found no particular plants _en route_.

_Dec_. _16th_.--Reached Rangagurrah, after a march of about an hour: and
halted for the day.

_Dec_. _18th_.--Started to visit Sedgwickia at the wood, where we found
it in February last. Reached the spot, which is at least ten miles from
Rangagurrah, in two hours and a half. The trees had evidently not
flowered last year; many of the buds were of some size, and such
contained flower buds, each capitula being in addition enveloped in three
bracteae densely beset with brown hair. The natives assured me, it will
flower about April, or at the sowing of _halee_. When we before found
it, the buds were all leaf buds, which at once accounts for the
non-appearance of flowers. Gathered Sabia in the Sedgwickia wood. The
Major {53} arrived before I got back.

_Dec_. _20th_.--Revisited the tea locality of Tingrei, which we reached
after a five hours' march. The portion of it formerly cleared is now
quite clean: all the plants, and they are very abundant, have a shrubby
shady appearance; the branches being numerous, so that the first aspect
is favourable. But one soon detects an evident coarseness in the leaves,
the tint of which is likewise much too yellow; altogether their
appearance is totally unlike that of teas growing in their natural shade.
That part, and the more extensive one which we first visited in February
last, is now clearing; almost all the large trees have been felled, and
all the underwood removed. The branches, etc. are piled in heaps and set
fire to, much to the detriment of the plants: all the tea trees likewise
have been felled. My conviction is, that the tea will not flourish in
open sunshine; at any rate, subjection to this should be gradual.
Further, that cutting the main stem is detrimental, not only inducing
long shoots, but most probably weakening the flavour of the leaves. It
appears to me to be highly desirable, that an intelligent superintendent
should reside on the spot, and that he should at least be a good
practical gardener, with some knowledge of the science also.

_Dec_. _24th_.--Reached Suddiya. The country passed through was, for the
first two days, of the same description as before; i.e. rather high
grassy plains with belts of jungle, and intervening low very swampy
ravines. The soil precisely the same as that of the tea localities. The
last march was, with the exception of Chykwar, through low damp dense
jungle.

* * * * *

_Extract from the Author's letter to Captain F_. _Jenkins_,
_Commissioner of Assam_, _regarding the Mishmees_. _December_,
_1836_. {54}

"I had thus become acquainted with all the influential chiefs near our
frontier, and by all I was received in a friendly and hospitable manner.
In accordance with my original intentions, my attention was in the first
place directed towards ascertaining whether the tea exists in this
direction or not, and, as I have already informed you, I have every
reason to think that the plant is unknown on these hills. From what I
have seen of the tea on the plains, I am disposed to believe that the
comparative want of soil, due to the great inclination of all the
eminences, is an insuperable objection to its existence.

"As I before observed to you, during my stay at Jingsha, my curiosity had
been excited by reports of an incursion of a considerable force of Lamas
into the Mishmee country. It hence became, having once established a
footing in the country, a matter of paramount importance to proceed
farther into the interior, and, if possible, to effect a junction with
these highly interesting people; but all my attempts to gain this point
proved completely futile; no bribes, no promises would induce any of the
chiefs to give me guides, even to the first Mishmee village belonging to
the Mezhoo tribe. I was hence compelled to content myself for the
present, with obtaining as much information as possible relative to the
above report, and I at length succeeded in gaining the following
certainly rather meagre account.

"The quarrel, as usual, originated about a marriage settlement between
two chiefs of the Mezhoo and Taeen tribes: it soon ended in both parties
coming to blows. The Mezhoo chief, ROOLING, to enable him at once to
overpower his enemies, and to strike at once at the root of their power,
called in the assistance of the Lamas. From this country a force of
seventy men armed with matchlocks made an invasion, and, as was to be
expected, the Taeen Mishmees were beaten at every point and lost about
twenty men. The affair seems to have come to a close about September
last, when the Lamas returned to their own country. Where it occurred I
could gain no precise information, but it must have been several days'
journey in advance of the villages I visited.

"It was owing to the unsettled state of the country, resulting from this
feud, that I could gain no guides from the Digaroos, without whose
assistance in this most difficult country, I need scarcely say, that all
attempts to advance would have been made in vain. These people very
plausibly said, if we give you guides, who is to protect us from the
vengeance of the Mezhoos when you are gone, and who is to insure us from
a second invasion of the Lamas? Another thing to be considered is, the
influence even then exercised over the Mishmees near our boundaries by
the Singphos connected with the Dupha Gam; but from the renewal of the
intercourse with our frontier station, there is every reason for
believing that this influence is ere this nearly destroyed.

"The natives of this portion of the range are divided into two tribes,
Taeen or Digaroo and Mezhoo, these last tracing their descent from the
_Dibong_ Mishmees, who are always known by the term crop-haired. The
Mezhoo, however, like the Taeens, preserve their hair, wearing it
generally tied in a knot on the crown of their head. The appearance of
both tribes is the same, but the language of the Mezhoos is very
distinct. They are perhaps the more powerful of the two; but their most
influential chiefs reside at a considerable distance from the lower
ranges. The only Mezhoos I met with are those at _Deeling-Yen_, a
small village opposite _Deeling_, but at a much higher elevation, and
_Tapan_. I need scarcely add that it was owing to the opposition of this
tribe that Captain WILCOX failed in reaching _Lama_. The Digaroos are
ruled by three influential chiefs, who are brothers DRISONG, KHOSHA, and
GHALOOM: of these, DRISONG is the eldest and the most powerful, but he
resides far in the interior. PRIMSONG is from a distant stock, and as
the three brothers mentioned above are all passed the prime of life,
there is but little doubt that he will soon become by far the most
influential chief of his tribe. Both tribes appear to intermarry. The
Mishmees are a small, active, hardy race, with the Tartar cast of
features; they are excessively dirty, and have not the reputation of
being honest, although, so far as I know, they are belied in this
respect. Like other hill people, they are famous for the muscular
development of their legs:--in this last point the women have generally
the inferiority. They have no written language. Their clothing is
inferior; it is, however, made of cotton, and is of their own
manufacture;--that of the men consists of a mere jacket and an apology
for a _dhoti_,--that of the women is more copious, and at any rate quite
decent: they are very fond of ornaments, especially beads, the quantities
of which they wear is very often quite astonishing. They appear to me
certainly superior to the Abors, of whom, however, I have seen but few.
Both sexes drink liquor, but they did not seem to me to be so addicted to
it as is generally the case with hill tribes:--their usual drink is a
fermented liquor made from rice called _mont'h_: this, however, is far
inferior to that of the Singphos, which is really a pleasant drink.

"_Religion_. Of their religion I could get no satisfactory
information--every thing is ascribed to supernatural agency. Their
invocations to their deity are frequent, and seem generally to be made
with the view of filling their own stomachs with animal food. They live
in a very promiscuous manner, one hundred being occasionally accommodated
in a single house. Their laws appear to be simple,--all grave crimes
being judged by an assembly of Gams, who are on such occasions summoned
from considerable distances. All crimes, including murder, are punished
by fines: but if the amount is not forthcoming, the offender is cut up by
the company assembled. But the crime of adultery, provided it be
committed against the consent of the husband, is punished by death; and
this severity may perhaps be necessary if we take into account the way in
which they live.

"The men always go armed with knives, Lama swords, or Singpho _dhaos_ and
lances; and most of them carry cross-bows--the arrows for these are
short, made of bamboo, and on all serious occasions are invariably
poisoned with _bee_. When on fighting expeditions, they use shields,
made of leather, which are covered towards the centre with the quills of
the porcupine. Their lances are made use of only for thrusting: the
shafts are made either from the wood of the lawn (_Caryota urens_) or
that of another species of palm _juice_--they are tipped with an iron
spike, and are of great use in the ascent of hills. The lance heads are
of their own manufacture, and of very soft iron. They have latterly
become acquainted with fire-arms, and the chiefs have mostly each a
firelock of _Lama_ construction.

"With _Lama_ they carry on an annual trade, which apparently takes place
on the borders of either country. In this case _mishmee-teeta_, is the
staple article of the Mishmees, and for it they obtain _dhaos_ or
straight long swords of excellent metal and often of great length; copper
pots of strong, but rough make, flints and steel, or rather steel alone,
which are really very neat and good; warm woollen caps, coarse loose
parti-colored woollen cloths, huge glass beads, generally white or blue,
various kinds of cattle, in which _Lama_ is represented as abounding, and
salts. I cannot say whether the Lamas furnish flints with the steel
implements for striking light; the stone generally used for this purpose
by the Mishmees is the nodular production from _Thumathaya_,--and this,
although rather frangible, answers its purpose very well; with the
Singphos they barter elephants' teeth, (these animals being found in the
lower ranges,) for slaves, dhaws, and buffaloes.

"With the Khamtees they appear to have little trade, although there is a
route to the proper country of this people along the _Ghaloom panee_,
or _Ghaloom Thee_ of WILCOX'S chart; this route is from the great
height of the hills to be crossed, only available during the hot months.

"With the inhabitants of the plains they carry on an annual trade, which
is now renewed after an interruption of two years, exchanging cloths,
Lama swords, spears, _mishmee-teeta_, _bee_, which is in very great
request, and _gertheana_, much esteemed by the natives for its peculiar
and rather pleasant smell, for money, (to which they begin to attach
great value), cloths, salt and beads: when a sufficient sum of money is
procured, they lay it out in buffaloes and the country cattle."

* * * * *

The following is a list of collections of Plants from the Mishmee Hills
to the extreme East, Upper Assam.

_Dicotyledones_. _Dicotyledones_.

(Ligulatae, 9) Ericineae, 7
Composi- (Cynaraceae, 4) 89 Verbenaceae, 8
tae, (Corymbiferae,76) Boragineae, 2

Labiatae, 50
Valerianeae, 1 Gesneriaceae, 22
Dipsaceae, 1 Acanthaceae, 38
Caprifoliaceae, 6 Scrophularineae, 19
Rubiaceae, 42 Solaneae, 6

Apocyneae, ) 5 Convolvulaceae, 8
Asclepiadeae, ) Primulaceae, 1

Gentianeae, 7 Myrsineae, 19
Oleinae, 2 Escalloniaceae? 3
Jasmineae, 6 Malvaceae, 6
Campanulaceae, 7 Cruciferae, 3
Lobeliaceae, 7 Polygaleae, 1
Vacciniaceae, 2 Violaceae, 5
Passifloreae, 1 Begoniaceae, 6
Modeccoideae, 1 Umbelliferae, 4
Samydeae, 1 Araliaceae, 12
Ampelideae, Leea, 6 Rhamneae, 1
Balsamineae, 15 Celastrineae, 9
Sileneae, 6 Amaranthaceae, 8
Aurantiaceae, 5 Polygoneae, 12
Meliaceae, 5 Chenopodeae, 1
Sapindaceae, 3 Plantagineae, 1
Acerineae, 4 Urticeae, 14
Malpighiaceae, 3 Ulmaceae, 1
Hypericineae, 2 Euphorbiaceae, 21
Ternstroemiaceae, 11 Scepaceae, 1
Symplocineae, 3 Stilagineae, 5
Ebenaceae, 1 Myriceae, 1

(Rhus, 5) Juglandeae, 1
Terebin- (Buchanania, 1) Cupuliferae, 4
thaceae, (Phlebochiton, 1) 9 Betulaceae, 5
(Sabia, 2) Salicineae, 1

Zanthoxyleae, 5 Laurineae, 8
Conareae, 1 Hamamelideae, 2
Trygophylleae, 1 Thymeleae, 1
Rutaceae, 2 Santalaceae, 1
Ranunculaceae, 4 Loranthaceae, 2
Fumariaceae, 2 Proteaceae, 1
Myristiceae, 2 Elaeagneae, 1
Anonaceae, 4 Aristolochiae, 3
Magnoliaceae, 1 Combretaceae, 2
Berberideae, 1 Chlorantheae, 1
Lardizabaleae, 1 Piperaceae, 14
Menispermeae, 5 Coniferae, 1
Rosaceae, 16 Incertae, 17
Leguminosae, 31 Unarranged, 8
Philadelpheae, 2 Ditto, 14
Saxifrageae, 3 ---
Melastomaceae, 9 725
Onagrariae, 3 ---
Myrtaceae, 2
Cucurbitaceae, 6
_Monocotyledones_ _Acotyledones_

Smilacineae, 14
Dioscoreae, 1 Pteris, 21
Peliosantheae, 5 Blechnum, 1
Tupistraceae, 2 Dicksonia, 1
Commelineae, 10 Davallia, 12
Tacceae, 1 Lindsaea, 2
Aroideae, 6 Asplenium 27
Scitamineae, 6 Allantodioides, 6
Orchideae, 43 Aspidium, 22
Apostaceae, 1 Nephrodium, 16
Palmae, 3 Cyatheae, 7
Cyperaceae, 22 Trichomanes, 4
Gramineae, 73 Hymenophyllum, 2
--- Gleichenia, 1
187 Angiopteris, 1
--- Botrychium, 1
_Acotyledones_ Lygodium, 2
Lycopodium, 6
Acrostichum, 12 Tinesipteris 1
Ceterach, 2 Equisetum, 1
Grammitis, 3 ---
Polypodium, 56 224
Pleopeltis, 8 Monocotyledones,187
Niphobolus, 1 Dicotyledones, 725
Cheilanthes, 3 Mosses
unarranged,
about 50
Adiantum, 3 ----
Vittaria, 1 Total, 1186
Lomaria, 1 ----

N.B.--The plants enumerated above, were transmitted to the India House in
1838, together with former collections made _in the Tenasserim_
Provinces.

CHAPTER IV.

_Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookhoom_, _Ava_, _and_
_Rangoon_, _Lat_. _27 degrees 25' to 16 degrees 45' N_.,
_Long_. _96 degrees to 96 degrees 20' E_.

We left Suddiya on the 7th of February 1837, and reached Kedding on the
10th; stayed there one day, and reached Kamroop Putar, where I found
Major White and Lieut. Bigge on the 12th. The jungle to this place was
similar to the usual jungle of the Singpho country, very generally low,
and intersected by ravines. We crossed _en route_ the Karam river, the
Noa Dihing, or Dihing branch of the Booree Dihing, on which the Beesa's
old village was situated; and lastly the Kamroop. Kamroop Putar is close
to the Naga hills; it is a cultivated rice tract, on the river Kamroop.
This river is fordable, with frequent rapids. The only curious things
about it are the petroleum wells, which are confined to three situations.
The wells are most numerous towards the summits of the range; and the
place where they occur is free from shrubs. The petroleum is of all
colours, from green to bluish white; this last is the strongest,
partaking of the character of Naphtha, it looks like bluish or greyish
clay and water. The vegetation of the open places in which the wells are
found, consists of grass, Stellaria, Hypericum, Polygonum, Cyperaceae,
Mazus rugosus, Plantago media, etc., all of which are found on the
plains. One of the wells is found on the Putar, or cultivated ground;
the petroleum in this is grey. The Kamroop river above this Putar,
strikes off to the eastward, and the Kamteechick, a tributary, falls into
it from the south; this last is a good deal the smaller; the banks of the
Kamroop are in many places precipitous. About two miles from the Putar,
a fine seam of excellent coal has been exposed by a slip: {60} the beds
are at an inclination of 45 degrees, and their direction is, I think,
nearly the same with that of the left bank of the river in which they
occur; immediately over the seam there is a small ravine, where three of
the veins are still farther exposed. Caricea, a new Dicranum, Alsophila
ferruginea, Polytrichum aloides, Bartramea subulosa, and Jungermanniae
are common near this spot.

Left Kamroop on the 19th, and proceeded in a S.W. direction for twelve
miles, when we halted on the Darap Kha, at the foot of the Naga hills,
opposite nearly to Beesala. Nothing of interest occurred.

_Feb_. _21st_.--Commenced the ascent, and after marching about ten miles,
halted in a valley near a stream. Temperature 66 degrees. Water boiled
at 210.5 degrees, giving an altitude of about 77 degrees, or 383 feet
above Suddiya. The road was very winding, the path good, except towards
the base of the hills: the soil sandy, in places indurated, and resting
on sandstone; but there is not yet sufficient elevation to ensure much
change in vegetation. Found Kaulfussia {61a} below in abundance,
observed Castanea and a Quercus; three species of Begonia, and three or
four species of Acanthacea. In other respects the jungle resembles that
of the Singpho territory. Dicksonia is abundant. Dipterocarpus of large
size occurs. Caught two innocuous snakes at the halting place. {61b}

_Feb_. _22nd_.--The distance of the march is about 12 miles, and we
halted after crossing the Darap Panee; some parts of the route were
difficult, at least for elephants. No particular features of vegetation
yet appears. The summit of the higher hills looks pretty. Tree jungle
considerable, open places with low grass, is the surrounding feature of
vegetation. The hill first surmounted from the halting place is covered
with a Camellia or _Bunfullup_, (i.e. bitter tea) of the Assamese. The
fruit has loculicidal dehiscence. In habit it is like that of the tea,
but the buds are covered with imbricate scales. At the summit of the
hill, it attained a height of 30 or 40 feet. Begoniacea, Urticaceae,
Acanthaceae, Filices, are the most common.

_Feb_. _23rd_.--Halted to enable the elephants to come up; they arrived
about 10 A.M. Temperature of the air 75 degrees, water boiled at 210
degrees, altitude 1029 feet. The Darap is a considerable stream, but is
fordable at the heads of the rapids. Fish abound, especially _Bookhar_,
a kind of Barbel, {61c} which reaches a good size. Clay slate appears to
be here the most common rock, and forms in many places the very
precipitous banks of the river. Alsophila ferruginea, Areca, Calami,
Fici., Pentaptera, Laurineae, Myristiceae continue. Kaulfussia assamica,
is common along the lower base of the hills.

_Feb_. _23rd_.--Started at 7, and after a march of five hours, reached
the halting place on the Kamtee-chick, some distance above the place at
which we descended to its bed. Distance 12 miles, direction S.S.E.;
crossed one hill of considerable elevation, certainly 1000 feet above the
halting place, which we find by the temperature of boiling water to be
1413 feet above the sea. The tops of these hills continue comparatively
open, and have a very pretty appearance. The trees, however, have not
assumed a northern character; their trunks are covered with epiphytes.
The Kamtee-chick is a small stream fordable at the rapids, the extreme
banks are not more than 30 or 40 yards. No peculiarity of vegetation as
yet occurs; the fruit of a Quercus continues common, as well as that of
Castanea ferox. I met with that of a Magnolia; Tree ferns, Calami, Musa,
Areca, and the usual sub-tropical trees continue; Acanthaceae are most
common, Gordonea plentiful on the open places on the hills, Sauraufa two
species, Byttneria, etc. etc. Altogether, I am disappointed in the
vegetation, which, although rich, is not varied. Wallichia continues
common. A Begonia with pointed leaves, and a Smilacineous plant are the
most interesting, and a large Quercoid Polypodium, the lacineae of which
are deciduous; and these I found in abundance on the Mishmee hills,
although I did not succeed in getting an entire frond.

_Feb_. _24th_.--Marched about ten miles all the way up the bed of the
Kamtee-chick, now a complete mountain stream, the general direction being
S.S.E. Traversed in places heavy jungle, but for the most part we
ascended the bed of the river. The only very interesting plant was
Podostemon, apparently Griffithianum, which covers the rocks on the bed
of the river. The usual plants continue, viz. Scitamineae, Phrynium
capitatum, Tradescantia, Paederia and Isophylla, Pothos 2 or 3 species,
Ixora 2, Leea, which occasionally becomes arborescent. Cissus 3 or 4,
Panax ditto, Pierardia sapida, Elaeocarpus, Smilax, Areca, Calami 2 or 3,
Asplenium nidus, Fici several, Pentaptera, Cupuliferae, the latter rare;
Bauheniae 2, Acanthaceae, one of which attains the size of a large shrub,
Guttiferae 2, Phlebochiton, Rottlera, Millingtonia simplicifolia, Inga,
Wallichia, Pentaptera, Malvacea, and Acanthacea convallariae flore. I
observed Pandanus to be common, (one Sterculia was yesterday observed).
Equisetae 2, the larger being the plant of the plains. Erythrina,
Lagerstraemia grandiflora. Chondospermum, Polypodium, Acrostichoides
ferrugineum, and the fruit of Cedrela Toona, Megala. Choranthus was not
seen.

_Feb_. _25th_.--Proceeded about 100 yards up the Kamchick, then crossed
the Tukkaka, and commenced the ascent of a high hill, certainly 1000 feet
above the elevation of our last halting place on the Kamchick: the lower
portion is covered with tree jungle, the upper portion of the mountain is
open, covered with a tall Saccharum and an Andropogon, among which are
mixed several Compositae, and an Ajuga. Among the grass, occur trees
scattered here and there, chiefly of a Gordonia. From the summit we had
a pretty view of the Kamchick valley, closed in to the S.W. by a high and
distant wall, being part of the Patkaye range. All the hills have the
same features, but it is odd that their highest points are thickly
clothed with tree jungle. Observed Kydia, Alstonia, _Eurya_, Triumfetta,
Celtis, Engelhardtia, Rhus, Rottlera, Loranthus, Callicarpa and Dicksonia
all at a high elevation, but this latter is scarce. No pines visible.
_Dhak_, Fici, Musa farinacea, Bambusae continue. Compositae are common
on the clearings. A Mimosa occurs on the summit, and Andrachne,
3-foliata. Thence we descended for a short distance, and halted at the
foot of the Patkaye near the stream.

Direction S.S.E. Distance four miles.

Elevation 3026 feet. Temperature 66 degrees. Boiling point, 206.5
degrees.

All the trees have a stunted appearance.

_Feb_. _26th_.--Halted.

_Feb_. _27th_.--To-day ascended a hill to the W. of our camp, certainly
500 feet above it; its features are the same, Porana alata. Bignonia, a
Leguminous tree, a ditto Mimosa. Panax, Lobelia zeylanica, Artemisia,
Cordia. Panicum curvatum, Anthistina arundinacea.

Panicum _plicatoides_, Smithea, Hypericum of the plains, and Potentilla,
Sida, and Plantago all plain plants, are found at the summit. To the
S.W. of our camp are the remains of a stockade, which was destroyed by
fire, it is said, last year. The only interesting plants gathered were a
Cyrtandracea, AEschynanthus confertus mihi, a Dendrobium, and a fine
Hedychium, beautifully scented, occurring as an epiphyte. Of Ficus
several species are common. On the large mountain to the N.E., either
birch or larches are visible, their elevation being probably 1000 feet
above that of our camp.

The party halted until the 3rd March; I had one day's capital fishing in
the Kamtee-chick with a running line.

_March 2nd_.--A Havildar arrived, bearing a letter from Dr. Bayfield,
{64} stating that he would be with the Major in two or three days.

_March 3rd_.--Capt. Hannay and I started in advance; we crossed a low
hill, then a torrent, after which we commenced a very steep ascent. This
ascent, with one or two exceptions, continued the whole way to the top of
the Patkaye range, which must be 1500 feet above our halting place. The
features continued the same. The Patkaye are covered with dry tree
jungle on the northern side. The place, whence the descent begins, is
not well defined: at first winding through damp tree jungle. After a
march of four hours we descended to a small stream, the Ramyoom, which
forms the British boundary; this we followed for some distance through
the wettest, rankest jungle I ever saw: thence we ascended a low hill,
and the remainder of our march was for the most part a continued descent
through dry open tree jungle, until we again descended into the damp
zone. We reached water as night was setting in, and bivouacked in the
bed of the stream.

The former vegetation continued until we reached the dry forest covering
the upper parts of the Patkaye, and here the forms indicating elevation
increased. Polygonatum, Ceratostemma, Bryum Sollyanum, and a
Ternstroemiacea occurred, Epiphytical orchideae are common, but were
almost all out of flower. Owing to the thickness of the jungle, and the
height of the trees, we could not ascertain what the trees were; but from
the absence of fruit, etc. on the ground, I am inclined to think that
they are not Cupuliferae. _Betee bans_, (of the natives) a kind of
bamboo, perhaps the same as the genus Schizostachyum, N. ab. E. is common
all over the summit, and descends to a considerable distance, especially
on the southern side. On this side the prevalence of interesting forms
was much more evident. Along the Kamyoom I gathered an Acer, an Arbutus,
a Daphne. Polypodium arboreum ferrugineum was likewise here very common.
Succulent Urticeae, Acanthaceae swarmed: a huge Calamus was likewise
conspicuous. On this side there is plenty of the bamboo called _Deo_
_bans_, articulis spinarum verticillis armatis, habitu B. bacciferae.
Among the trees on the descent, Magnoliaceae occur; the petals of one I
picked up were light yellow, tinged with brown in the centre. A species
of Viola occurred low down. I believe it is V. serpens. On both sides,
but especially the south Ceratostemma variegatum occurs; this is common
still lower down the Kamyoom. The trees along this portion of the
boundary nullah, are covered with masses of pendulous Neckera and Hypna.
On the summit I observed two species of Panax, a fruitescent or
arbusculous Composita, Asplenum nidus, Laurineae, etc.

The direction of the day's journey was about S.S.E. The distance 15
miles.

_March 4th_.--We reached almost immediately the real Kamyoom, down
which our route laid; we halted in its bed at 3, after a march most
fatiguing from crossing and recrossing the stream, of about ten miles:
general direction E.S.E. The features of this torrent are precisely the
same as those of the Kamteechick, but Sedgewickia is common. I gathered
a Stauntonia, Ceratostemma variegatum, and some fine ferns, and two or
three Begoniaceae, Magnoliaceae three species occur, among which is
Liriodendron; Cupiliferae are common, especially Quercus cupulis
lamellatis, nuce depressa; a Viburnum likewise occurred. The stream is
small; the banks in many places precipitous. In one place great portion
of the base of a hill had been laid waste by a torrent coming apparently
from the naked rocks; trees and soil were strewed in every direction.
Clay-slate is common.

I should have mentioned that Dicksonia occurs at 4000 feet, as well as
(Camellia) _Bunfullup_, after that the former ceases. The two Saurauja
of Suddiya continue up to 4000 feet of elevation; on the first ascent I
observed a large Thistle, but out of flower. No cultivation was passed
after surmounting the first ascent; we passed the remains of a stockade
on the 4th, in which some Singphos had on a previous inroad stockaded
themselves. The hills are generally covered with tree jungle, except
occasionally on the north side where they have probably at some early
period, been cleared for cultivation. To this may be added the curious
appearance of the trees indicating having been lopped.

Equisetum continues in the bed of the river. Nothing like a pine was
observed.

_March 5th_.--Proceeded in an E.S.E. direction towards Kamyoom for a
distance of four miles, where we met Dr. Bayfield. As we found from him
that it was impossible to go on, as there were no rice coolies, etc. to
be obtained, we returned to our halting place; where I remained chiefly
from supposing that the Meewoon will start less objections when he sees
that I am in his territory without coolies, etc. Fished in the
afternoon. The Bookhar, or large Barbel already mentioned, still
continues; but there is another species still more common, of a longer
form, ventral fins reddish, mouth small, nose gibbous rough; {66} it
takes a fly greedily, and is perhaps a more game fish than the other. All
the birds inhabiting the water-courses of the north side of the Patkaye
continue. Barking Deer are heard occasionally.

Gathered one fine Bleteoidia Orchidea, racemis erectis oblongis, sepalis
petalisque fusco-luteis, arcte reflexis, labello albido, odore forti
mellis. Engelhardtia occurs here, Pentaptera, Wallichia, Calamus,
Saccharum, etc.

_March 7th_.--To-day the Meewoon arrived, accompanied by perhaps 200
people chiefly armed with spears; he was preceded by two gilt chattas. He
made no objections to my remaining, and really appeared very
good-natured. The first thing he did, however, was to seize a
shillelagh, and thwack most heartily some of his coolies who remained to
see our conference. He did not stay ten minutes.

_March 8th_.--To-day I examined superficially the ovary and young fruit
of Ceratostemma variegatum, Roxb. The placenta which is very green, is 5-
rayed. The substance of the walls of the ovary which is thick and white,
projects towards the axis not only between the lobes, but also opposite
to each; so that the fruit is really 10-celled, but 5 of the cells are
spurious. The production opposite the placentae necessarily divides the
ovula of one placenta into two parcels, and these are they that have no
adhesion with the axis. At present I can say nothing about the relative
site of the lobes of the placentae, otherwise there is nothing
remarkable, beyond the production of the ovary opposite the lobes of the
placentae.

_March 12th_.--Yesterday evening Bayfield returned alone, leaving
Hannay on the Patkaye, unable to come on or retreat, owing to his having
no coolies. It was decided, that there was no other step left me to
follow than going on to Ava, and I thus am enabled to obey the letter of
Government, relative to my going to Ava, which reached me on the 10th by
the Havildar. The Meewoon can give me no assistance towards returning,
although he will spare me a few men to carry me on to Mogam. For the
last three days I have been indisposed. Altitude 2138 by the Therm.
Temp. 208 degrees, at which water boils.

_March 13th_.--Left and proceeded down the Kamyoom, or properly Kam-mai-
roan, according to Bayfield, in an E.S.E. direction for about seven
miles, when we reached the previous halting place of Dr. Bayfield. We
passed before arriving at this a small Putar on which were some remains
of old habitations; on it limes abound, and these are a sure test of
inhabitation at some previous period.

The vegetation continues precisely the same as that of the Namtucheek,
even to Podostemon Griffithianum, which I to-day observed for the first
time.

_March 14th_.--Proceeded on, still keeping for the chief part of our
march along the Kammiroan. We left this very soon, and crossed some low
hills on which the jungles presented the same features. We left the
village Kammiroan to our right. We did not see it, but I believe it
consists of only two houses. Passed through one khet, the first
cultivated ground we saw after leaving that on the Kamchick; then we came
on to a few more Putars, in which limes continue abundant. On these I
find no less than three species of Rubus; in those parts on which rice
has been cultivated a pretty fringed Hypericum likewise occurs, and these
are the most interesting plants that have presented themselves. Our
course improved much yesterday; it extended E. by S., and was rather less
than seven miles. Halted at Kha-thung-kyoun, where the Meewoon had
halted, and where the Dupha Gam had remained some time previous. The
same vegetation occurs, Engelhardtia, Gleichenia _major_ longe scandens,
Equisetum both species, Euphorbiacea nereifolia, Dicksonia rare, Scleria
vaginis alatis, Plantago media, Zizania ciliaris, Melastoma malabathrica,
Lycium arenarum, Duchesnia indica, Mazus rugosus, the Suddiya Viburnum,
Millingtonia pinnata, Pentaptera, Erythrina; an arboreous Eugenia fol.
magnis, abovatis, is however new, and Polypodium Wallichianum which
occurred to-day growing on clay-slate. But considering the elevation at
which we still remain to be tolerably high, the products both of the
vegetable and animal kingdom are comparatively uninteresting. There are
more epiphytical Orchideae on the south sides of these hills, than the
north. Musci and Hepaticae are common, but do not embrace a great amount
of species. Machantia asamica is common. Another new tree I found is
probably a Careya or Barringtonia; the young inflorescence is nearly
globular, and clothed with imbricated scales. Sedgewickia has
disappeared. No tea was seen. There is but little doubt that on hills,
the ranges of which rise gradually, the acclimatization of low plants may
take place to such a degree, that such plants may be found at high
elevations; can they however so far become acclimated, as to
preponderate? I expected of course to find the same plants on both sides
of the hills, but I did not expect to find Rottlerae, Fici, tree-ferns,
etc., at an elevation of 4000 feet and upwards.

The fish of the streams continue the same, as well as the birds. The
Ouzel, white and black, long-tailed Jay, white-headed Redstart,
red-rumped ditto, all continue. Water Wagtails were seen to-day. This
bird is uncommon in hill water-courses; one snipe was seen yesterday.
Ooloocks (Hylobates agilis), continue as in Assam. With regard to fish,
both species of Barbel occur; {68} the most killing bait for the large
one, or Bookhar of the Assamese, is the green fucus, which is common,
adhering to all the stones in these hill-streams: it is difficult to fix
it on the hook. The line should be a running one, and not leaded, and
the bait may be thrown as a fly. To it the largest fish rise most
greedily; plenty of time must be allowed them to swallow before one
strikes, otherwise no fish will be caught. All the same Palms continue
except Calami, Areca, and Wallichiana.

Balsamineae are uncommon. There is one however, although rare, probably
the same as the bright crimson-flowered one of the Meerep Panee. Urticeae
have diminished; the Suddiya Viola occurred yesterday, the Asplenium,
fronde lanceolat. continues common.

_March 14th_.--Halted. Water boiled 209 degrees. Temp. 59 and 60
degrees. Elevation 1622 feet.

_March 15th_.--Left the Meewoon about 8, and proceeded about 100 yards
up the Khathing. Thence we struck off, and commenced the ascent, which
continued without intermission for some hours, the whole way lying
through heavy tree jungle. Ascent in some places very steep. On
reaching the summit, or nearly so, the jungle became more open, and the
route continued along the ridge. We then descended for 50 feet, and
halted on an open grassy spot where we ascertained the altitude to be
5516 feet. Boiling point 202 degrees. Temperature of the air 63
degrees. The vegetation increased in interest; I noticed near the
Khathing, Buddleia neemda, Pladera Justicioidea, which continues however
all along even to 5000 feet. Thunbergia coccinea, Chondrospermum,
Dicksonia; near and on the summit Magnoliae and two or three Cupuliferae,
Daphne Strutheoloides, nobis, Gymnostomum involutum, Berberis pinnata,
the same as the Khasiya one, but scarce. Laurinea arborea, Bambusa
monogynia, Rubus moluccanus: Frutex Ruscordeus, Loranthus, Anthistiria
arundinacea, Melastoma, Cyathea, Compositae, Conyzoideae two or three,
Correas one, Hedychium, Eurya, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Lycopodium
ceranium, Hoya teretifolia, Acanthaceae two or three, Bucklandia.

We thence descended, and after a longish march reached the Natkaw Kyown,
and finally halted on the Khusse Kyown. During this portion I gathered
some very interesting plants, a new Ceratostemma, Adamia, two or three
Orchideae, a beautiful large flowered Cyrtandracea, the same Daphne, an
Umbellifera. Vaccineaceae, four species of Begoniae, a Viburnum.
Crawfurdia and Polypodium Wallichianum, which roofed in our shed; Musci
increased as well as Succulent Urticeae in shady places. Smilacinae were
common, especially one at elevations of from 3 to 5000 feet
inflorescentia cernua. The features are the same, the drier woods
crowning the ridges. On the trees of these, Orchideae and Filices are
common, as well as in low parts in which Acanthaceae abound. I saw no
_Betee-bhans_ nor Deo-bhans, (peculiar bamboos). Of the above,
Ceratostemma, Daphane, Smilacinae, Cyathea, some of the Begoniae, the
large flowered Cyrtandraceae, Umbelliferae are sure indications of
considerable elevation. The course was nearly south. Distance about 13
miles. Thermometer in boiling water 206 degrees. Temperature of the air
50.5 degrees. Halting place, 3516.

_March 16th_.--Started before breakfast, and reached the Khusee Kyoung
without any material descent. Thence we continued descending on the
whole considerably until we reached Namthuga, at 10 A.M. Thence the
descent increased. Halted on Kullack Boom. General direction S.;
distance 13 miles. Noticed Areca up to 3800 feet, as well as
Cheilosandra obovata, Bletea melleodora, and Begonia palmata as high as
3000 feet.

At Namthuga a Sambucus, probably S. Ebulus, a Mimosa, Pothos decursiva,
Hedychium, Urtica urens, Gleichenia major, Tradescanthia panicularis.
Between this and Kullack Boom Acanthaceae are the most common; Paederia
triphylla appears near the Boom, together with Arum viviparum. Black
Pheasants were likewise heard on our route. On the open halting place,
grasses preponderate. Anthestiria arundinacea, arbusculous Gordonia, and
Saurauja, a Laurinea, Styrax, etc. AEsculus asamicus is common, and
profusely in flower, and Pteris as on Thuma-thaya; Musa glauca made its
appearance. From this open space an extensive view is obtained of
Hookhoom valley, bounding which occurs a range of hills stretching E.S.E.
and W.N.W. These in the centre present a gap in which a river is seen
running S. The view to the E. is impeded by the trees on that face of
the hill. The valley is as usual one mass of jungle, with here and there
clear patches occurring, especially to the W. of S., but whether from
cultivation or not, I am unable to say. The Namlunai river is visible;
winding excessively, especially to the E.S.E., it appears a considerable
stream with much sand: it passes out towards the gap above alluded to,
winding round the corner of the hills.

During the 16th, my attention was particularly directed towards Tea,
which was said positively to exist. I obtained some of the bitter sort,
or _Bunfullup_, but the plant which was pointed out to me as tea
certainly was not, although resembling it a good deal. There is no
reason for supposing, that it exists on these hills, and if tea is
brought hence, it is I should think a spurious preparation. The soil is
in many places yellow, in many brick-dust coloured. If the Tea existed
in abundance, I must have seen it.

The hills which confine the valley, at least those which are obvious
outliers of the Patkaye range, are characterised by conical peaks, and
there is a bluff rock of good elevation to the W.S.W. .5 S.

[Valley of Hookhoom: p71.jpg]

_March 17th_.--Boiled water at 206 degrees Fahr. Thermometer in the
air 61 degrees. Elevation 3270. Commenced the descent, which continued
without interruption to the Loon-karankha, where we breakfasted. The bed
of this, which is a mere mountain torrent, is of sandstone. Here
Ceratostemma variegatum is very common, and has larger, broader and more
obovate leaves, than before observed; Polypodium Wallichianum, a Begonia
and Orchideae are common on its boulders. Continued our course at first
up a considerable ascent, thence it was nearly an uniform descent.
Crossed the Namtuwa, along which our course lay for a short time. The
latter part was through low wet jungle, along small water-courses, till
we reached the Panglai Kha, along which we continued for some time.
Reached our halting place on the Namtuseek about 2 P.M. General
direction E.S.E.; distance about ten miles. Noticed Podostemon
Griffithianum, on rocks on the Namtuwa. My collector gathered one
Daphne, Acanthus Solanacea occurred very abundantly, corinfundib. lab
super postico, infer reflexo, laciniis bifidis. Low down observed the
usual Dipterocarpus, Uncaria and Kaulfussia asamica, Dracaena. Mesua
ferrea occurred during the first part of the march. Noticed the tracks
of a Rhinoceros. At 5 P.M. water boiled at 210 degrees. Temperature 69
degrees. Elevation 1099 feet.

The most interesting plants were an Arum, an undescribed Ceratostemma,
and a Celastrinea.

The collection formed between this place and Suddiya now amount to about
500 species. The vegetation of the lower portions is the same, or nearly
so, on either side of the hills; but I did not observe near this the
Polypodium ferrugineum arboreum, although there is a small arborescent
species of this genus. On either side, the lower ranges are clothed with
heavy wet tree jungle, the under-shrubs consisting of Acanthaceae,
Rubiaceae, Filices, Aroideae, and Urticeae; Kaulfussia does not ascend so
high on this side. Acanthacea solanacea appears peculiar to this side,
although there is a species of the genus on the Kammiroan.

The plants indicating the greatest elevation are Acer, Ceratostemma
miniatum, and angulatum, Vacciniaceae; Daphne, particularly the Patkaye
one, and D. struthioloides, most of the Smilacineae, Berberis, etc. etc.
Bucklandia Crawfurdii, Begoniae, some Viburnia, Cyathea, etc. of
Ceratostemma (Gay Lussacium?) several, perhaps not less than seven
species occur; all have the same habit, and the same depot of nourishment
in the thick portion near the _collet_. No Coniferae exist, although the
elevation is more than sufficient to determine their appearance. In
Orchideae the flora is certainly very rich, but few species are in flower

(_Memo_. To compare these elevational plants with those from the Mishmee
hills, on which, speaking from memory, they are more abundant.)

_March 18th_.--Left at half-past 6, and arrived (after halting about
one hour and a half) at 3 P.M. The road was very circuitous, for the
first part E. by S., subsequently for some time N.N.E., and even N.E.;
the general direction is perhaps E.; the distance certainly 18 miles. The
greater part of the route lay through heavy but dryish tree jungle; but
during the latter half, and especially towards Nempean, Putars or
cultivated fields increased in number, and extent. We crossed one stream
only. The soil is yellow and deep, occasionally inclining to brick-red;
it is apparently much the same as that of Muttack. The low spots were
uncommon. We saw only two paths diverging from ours; one of these led to
Bone, which is about two miles from our path, in a south direction, and
at no great distance from the Namtuseek.

The features of the country and its productions are much the same as
those of Upper Assam, indeed strikingly so. During the earlier part of
our march we observed a fine Shorea in abundance; it had a noble straight
stem, but the leaves were too small for Saul. The only new plants I
found were Styrax floribus odoris, ligno albo close grained, arbor
mediocris, a Baeobotrys, two Goodyerae, a Laurinea, Sparganium!
Tabernaemontana fructibus magnis, edulibus, fol. obovatis, and a species
of Shorea.

I noticed the following plants in the following order from Namtuseek:
Dicksonia, Areca, Calamus, Bambusa, speculis pubescentibus, deformatis, a
species of Phrynium, Pladera justicioides, Chrysobaphus Roxburghii,
Phyllanthus, Embilica, a species of Wendlandia common in places that
appeared to have been formerly cleared; Gnetum lepidotum, Celastrinea
_foliis Leguminosarum_, Bombax (inerme) Saccharum Megala, Imperata
cylindica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Ingae sp., Sauraujae sp. Entada,
Gleichenia, Hermannia, Blechnum orientale, Baeobotrys, Meniscium
3-phyllum, Sonerila, Acanthus leucostachys, Diplazium of Kujoo,
_Podomolee_, Saccharum foliis apice spiraliter tortis, Osbeckia,
Rottlera, Lygodium, Rubus moluccanus, Centotheca, Zizania ciliaris, Viola
asamica, Potamogeton nutans, foliis linearibus, Limnophila, Pontederia
dilatata, Lobelia Zeylanica, Hypericum venustum. Panax foliis supra
decompositis spinosis, Callicarpae 2 spec, Duchesnea indica, Combretum,
Melica latifolia, Magus rugosus, Vandellia peduncularis, Villarsia
pumila, Artocarpus integrifolius, Piper, Lagerstraemia grandiflora, Roxb.
Dillenia speciosa, Spathodea. All these exist in Assam.

The birds are the same. As for instance, common Maina, Doves, the Picus
of low swampy places, and the _Lark_ of the plains of Assam. Squirrel,
ventre ferrugineo. Black Pheasant, _Phasianus leucomelanus_, Laurineae,
Acanthaceae, Rubiacea and Filices, are common in the jungles.

The Putars are clothed with the same grasses as in Assam. Imperata
cylindrica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Megala in low places with Alpinea
Allughas, in those lately under cultivation, the Campanula of the B.
pooter occurs, together with Hypericum, Gnaphalium, Poa and Carex.

From the frequent occurrence of these Putars, I should say that the
capabilities of the country, at least the latter half of our march,
improves as far as regards _halee_ cultivation.

Throughout the march nothing occurred to shew that this part of the
valley is inhabited. We passed, however, an old and extensive burying
ground of the Singphos. Of the Putars only small portions were
cultivated, and the crops did not appear to be very good.

Nempean, which is a stockaded village, is about a quarter of a mile from
the encampment of the Meewoon, and about S.E., and within 200 yards to
the N.N.E. is a similar stockaded village called Tubone. Both these
villages are on the right bank of the Namturoon, which is a large stream,
as big nearly as the Noa Dihing at Beesa. B. measured it, and finds its
extreme bed to be 270 yards broad. The volume of water is considerable,
the rapids are moderate; it is navigable for largish canoes. On this
bank, _i.e_. right, there is an extensive plain running nearly N. and
S.; no part of it seems to be cultivated. The scenery is precisely the
same as that of Upper Assam, viz. open, flat, intersected by belts of
jungle. With the exception of the W. and the points between this and
south, hills are visible, some of considerable height. To the S.E. there
is a fine peak, which reminds one much of the Mishmee peak, so remarkable
at Suddiya. It is in this direction that the hills are highest.

No tea is reported to exist here. B. met with it on his road hither, and
shewed me the specimen; there is no difference between this and the Assam
specimens in appearance, neither are the leaves at all smaller. As a new
route has been cut out I cannot visit it, but shall wait until I arrive
at Meinkhoom.

The Chykwar Mulberry occurs, and to a larger size than I have seen it in
Assam. The Singphos, however, as they have no silkworms, do not make use
of it; I have seen some little cultivation on the Tooroon belonging to
Bon: Kanee or Opium formed portion of it.

Thermometer in shade at 2 P.M. 85 degrees.

_March 21st_.--7 A.M. Thermometer 60 degrees. Yesterday at 2 P.M. 86
degrees! under a decently covered shed.

Boiled water at 209.5 Fahr. Thermometer 70 degrees, which gives 1399
feet of elevation.

Started at 9, and arrived at Kidding on the Saxsai, a small stream which
now falls into the Tooroon. Distance about four miles and a half from
Nempean: general direction about S.S.E. The road runs along the Tooroon
S., and a little to the W. of S.; it then diverges up the Saxsai, which
runs nearly W. and E. Near the mouth of the Saxsai, and about 400 yards
above, there is another small stream, the Jinnip Kha. Both these are on
the left bank of the river. On the opposite side, and about a quarter of
a mile, is a village, which like all the rest is stockaded. Kidding is
larger than either Tubone or Nempean; it is on the left bank of the
Saxsai. Rapids are common in the Tooroon, but are not of any severity.

The vegetation remains in a remarkable degree similar to that of Assam.
The Lohit Campanula is very common in the stony beds of either river.

Brahminy Ducks seen at Nempean, and the ravenous Geese of Kamroop Putar.
Fished in the Tooroon, and had excellent sport, killing in the afternoon
twenty fishes, average weight half pound; some weighing nearly two
pounds. Three species occurred, and all were taken with flies; the
smallest are a good deal like the _Boal_ of Assam. The large-mouthed,
trout-like Cyprinida {74a} occurs, and to a larger size than in the Noa
Dihing. The third is the _Chikrum_ of the Singphos; it is a thick, very
powerful fish, a good deal resembling the Roach: one of two pounds,
measures about a foot in length. Outline ovate lanceolate, head small,
mouth with four filaments; eyes very large, fins reddish, first ray of
the dorsal large spinous. It affects deep water, particularly at the
edges of the streams running into such places. {74b} It takes a fly
greedily even in quite still water; but as it has a small mouth, the
smaller the flies the better. Black hackle is better for it than small
grey midges. On being hooked it rushes off with violence, frequently
leaping out of the water. It is a much more game fish than the Bookhar:
the largest I took with flies; with worms I took only one small one. With
regard to the Bookhar, it is strange if it is not found in the streams
running through this valley, as in the Kammaroan it occurs in abundance.

Black and white Kingfisher, _Alcedo rudis_, Snippets, Curlews of the B.
pooter, with chesnutish back occur in the valley, together with Toucans:
and Ravens occur as in Assam.

At the village of Kidding there are silkworms fed.

_March 22nd_.--Started at 6 P.M., reached Shelling khet on the Prong
Prongkha in about two hours; it is distant about seven miles. The
village is now deserted. The nullah is small, with a very slow stream;
direction from Kidding nearly S.E. It was at this place that Bayfield
got his specimen of tea, but on enquiry we found that it was brought from
some distance; it is said to grow on a low range of hills. We started
after breakfast, and reached Culleyang, on the same nullah, about 12
o'clock. Total distance thirteen miles; direction S.S.E. Path very
winding. The country traversed is much less open than that of Nempean,
but few Putars occurred; and the whole tract is covered either with tree
or Megala jungle. Water boiled at Shelling khet at 209.5 Fahr. Temp. of
the air 68.5 degrees. Elevation 1340 feet. Noticed but very little
clearing for cultivation, neither did the Putars appear to have been
lately under cultivation.

Culleyang is a village containing about eight houses; it is not
stockaded, and has the usual slovenly appearance of Singpho villages. The
natives keep silkworms, which they feed on the Chykwar or Assam morus,
which they cultivate. I noticed likewise Kanee, or Opium, and Urtica
nivea, which they use for nets; Acanthaceae, Indigofera, and Peach trees.

Close to the village are the burying places of two Singphos. These have
the usual structure of the cemeteries of the tribe, the graves being
covered by a high conical thatched roof. I find from Bayfield, that they
first dry their dead, preserving them in odd shaped coffins, until the
drying process is completed. They then burn the body, afterwards
collecting the ashes, which are finally deposited in the mounds over
which the conical sheds are erected. Between the village and the graves
I saw one of these coffins which, if it contained a full-grown man, must
have admitted the remains in a mutilated shape; and close to this were
the bones of a corpse lately burnt.

To-day I shot the beautiful yellow and black crested Bird we first saw on
the Cossiya hills, _Parus Sultaneus_, and two handsome Birds,
_Orioles_, or _Pastor Traillii_, quite new to me, blackish and bright
crimson, probably allied to the Shrikes.

Of fishes, Cyprinus falcata, or _Nepoora_ of the Assamese, together with
the Sentooree {75} of the Assamese, both occur. Of plants, we noticed
Stauntonia, Vitis, Cissampelos, Butomus pygmaeus, Dicksonia, Hedychia 2,
Croton Malvaefolium of Suddiya, Xanthium indicum; Cheilosandra
ferruginea, Pothos scandens decursiva, etc., Liriodendrum, Kydia. Ficus
elastica? Asplenium nidus, Conyza graveolens, south of the old
clearings. Lemna, Valisneria, Azolla, AEsculus asamicus in abundance.
Limes in profusion near Culleyang; Paederia faetida and the other
species, Naravelia, Hiraea, Phrynium dichotomum, Gaertnera, and Carallia
lucida. New plants, Ophioglossum, Carex, Gnetum sp. nov. Choripetalum,
and two _incerta_. Noticed Pladera justicioides during the first part of
the march, and the small Squirrel of Kujoodoo.

Six A.M. Temperature 58.5. Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. 8 P.M.
Temperature of the air 66. Altitude 1064 feet.

_March 23rd_.--Started at 6 A.M. and reached Lamoom about 8, where we
breakfasted. Reached Tsilone, the Dupha's village, at noon. General
direction S.W. Distance about ten miles. Lamoom is a small
_un_stockaded village on the Moneekha. Tsilone is a moderate sized
Singpho village on the right bank of the Nam Tunail. The river is of
considerable size, with scarcely any rapids: stream slow. The village is
situated on a rather high bank.

The country continues the same, perhaps a little more open, at least
Putars are of frequent occurrence, although they are all narrow. Observed
Cryptolepis, Celastrus _leguminoideus_ Cuscuta Uncaria racemis pendulis.
Of birds the smaller Maina, common house Sparrow, blue Jay, and the
larger grey Tern occur. We halted on a sandbank about one mile and a
half higher up to the south of Tsilone. New plants, the Campanula of
Chykwar, ditto Lysimachia, Dopatrium, Jasminum, Rhamnea, Pothos, Lasia,
Riccia, etc.

_March 24th_.--Thermometer 58 degrees. Boiling point 210. Altitude
1064 feet. After a long and hot march of seven hours we reached
Meinkhoon; general direction -- distance 17 miles. During the first two
hours we marched along the bed and banks of the Nam Tenai, subsequently
over grassy plains intersected by belts of jungle. Country much more
open than that we saw yesterday. To the W. low ranges of hills, about
one-third of a mile distant, occurred throughout the day. We passed two
or three small nullahs, in one of which I observed lumps of lignite.

The Nam Tenai continued a large river, extreme breadth varying from 250
to 350 yards. We crossed at once, about half a mile from our encampment,
deepest part of the ford four feet; its banks are either thickly wooded
or covered with Kagara jungle. The day's march was very uninteresting. I
observed a few Mango trees, a Mucuna, Laurineae are common, as well as a
Wendlandia in open grassy places. Sagittariae sp. was the only novelty.
Noticed the Hoopoe bird, _Upapa Capensis_.

[Meinkhoom: p76.jpg]

_March 25th_.--Meinkhoon is situated on a very small nullah, the
Eedeekha. The village which is large and well stockaded, is divided into
two by this nullah. The population of both cannot, including children,
be less than 200. They belong to the Meerep tribe. The women wear the
_putsoe_ somewhat like those of Burma, which seems to me quite new in
Singpho women; and is not the fashion with those in Assam. To the S.W.
there is a group of somewhat decayed Shan Pagodas, and a Poonghie house,
around which are planted mango trees and a beautiful arboreous Bauhinia,
B. rhododendriflora mihi, ovariis binis! Around the village is an
extensive plain, and to the S.E. one or two more Pagodas. This Bauhinia
has flowers 1.5 inches across, calyx spathaceus, petalis,
sub-conformibus, obovatis, repandis laete purpureis, vexillo coccineo-
purpureo, colore saturate venoso, carinae petalis distantibus, odor
Copaivae! Stam. 5 declinata, cum petalis, alternantia. Ovaria 2!
anticum posticumque, longe stipetata, difformia superiore minore,
aborticate, ambobus vexillo oppositis! Stylus ruber pallide; stigma
capitatum. One B. variegata, W. Roxb. Fl. Indic. vol. ii. p.319, quamvis
auctor de ovario antico silet.

Two snakes were captured, approaching in shape to the green snake of the
Coromandel Coast. Under surface throughout bright gamboge colour; upper
surface throughout, excepting about a span or less of the back of the
neck, bright ochraceous brown. The space above alluded to is in one
faintly, in the other strongly variegated with black and white. Irides,
gamboge-coloured.

_March 26th_.--Visited the amber mines, which are situated on a range
of low hills, perhaps 150 feet above the plain of Meinkhoon, from which
they bear S.W. The distance of the pits now worked is about six miles,
of which three are passed in traversing the plain, and three in the low
hills which it is requisite to cross. These are thickly covered with
tree jungle. The first pits, which are old, occur about one mile within
the hills. Those now worked occupy the brow of a low hill, and on this
spot they are very numerous; the pits are square, about four feet in
diameter, and of very variable depth; steps, or rather holes, are cut in
two of the faces of the square by which the workmen ascend and descend.
The instruments used are wooden-lipped with iron crowbars, by which the
soil is displaced; this answers but very imperfectly for a pickaxe: small
wooden shovels, baskets for carrying up the soil, etc., buckets of bark
to draw up the water, bamboos, the base of the rhizoma forming a hook for
drawing up the baskets, and the Madras lever for drawing up heavy loads.

The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of 15 to 20
feet, is red and clayish, and appears to inclose but small pieces of
lignite; the remainder consists of greyish slate clay increasing in
density as the pits do in depth: in this occur strata of lignite very
imperfectly formed, which gives the grey mineral a slaty fracture, and
among this the amber is found. {78} The deepest pit was about 40 feet,
and the workmen had then come to water. All the amber I saw, except a
few pieces, occurred as very small irregular deposits, and in no great
abundance. The searching occupies but little time, as they look only
among the lignite, which is at once obvious. No precautions are taken to
prevent accidents from the falling in of the sides of the pits, which are
in many places very close to each other (within two feet): but the soil
is very tenacious.

We could not obtain any fine specimens; indeed at first the workmen
denied having any at all, and told Mr. B. that they had been working for
six years without success. They appear to have no index to favourable
spots, but having once found a good pit they of course dig as many as
possible as near and close together as they can. The most numerous occur
at the highest part of the hill now worked. The article is much prized
for ornaments by the Chinese and Singphos, but is never of much value;
five rupees being a good price for a first-rate pair of earrings.
Meinkhoon is visited by parties of Chinese for the purpose of procuring
this article. There are at present here a Lupai Sooba and a few men,
from a place three or four days' journey beyond the Irrawaddi, waiting
for amber. These men are much like the Chinese, whose dress they almost
wear: they squat like them, and wear their hair like them; shoes,
stockings, pantaloons, jackets, tunic. They are armed chiefly with
firelocks, in the use of which at 50 yards two of the men were expert
enough. They talk the Singpho language.

The vegetation of the plains, proceeding to the mines, is unchanged.
Noticed Apluda, a Phyllanthus, Cacalia, Poa, etc. That of the hills is
the same as that of the low ranges before traversed. The only new plants
were a Celtis? a Krameria (the Celtis is the Boolla of Upper Assam,)
Ventilago, Quercus or Castanea, Compositae, etc. In the damp places a
largish Loxotis, two or three Begoniae, ditto Urticeae occur. I noticed
among and around the pits a species of Bambusa, Celtis, Kydia calycina,
Clerodendrum infortunatum, Calamus, Areca, Dicksonia, Ficus, Pentaptera,
and Rottlera. Pladera has ceased to appear.

Last night a sort of alarm occurred, and in consequence, this evening,
the head cooly gave his orders to his men in the following terms: "Watch
to-night well." Nobody answering him, he continued, "Do you hear what I
say?" Then addressed himself to them in the most obscene terms, which
habit and uncivilized life seem to have adapted to common conversation
amongst these people without any breach of modesty or decorum; and
amongst the Assamese such expressions likewise form not an uncommon mode
of familiar salutation.

_March 27th_.--Left about 7, and proceeded over the Meinkhoon plain in
an easterly direction, in which the highest hills visible from the
village lay. We continued east for some time, our course subsequently
becoming more and more south. On reaching the Nempyokha, we proceeded up
its bed for about two miles, the course occasionally becoming west. We
reached Wollaboom at 12.5. General direction S.E.; distance thirteen
miles. The greater part of the country traversed consisted of low
plains, splendidly adapted for _halee_ cultivation. No villages were
passed. Saw two paths, one leading to the N., one to the S. not far from
Meinkhoon; of these the N. one leads to the hills, the S. to a Singpho
village. And we passed burial places of some antiquity, and considerable
extent. New plants; a Loranthus floribus viridibus, petalis 6 reflexis.
Zizyphoidea, and an arborescent Bignonia foliis cordatis oppositis,
integris, basi bi-glandulosis, paniculis racemiformibus, solitariis et
axillaribus vel terminalibus et aggregatis. Marlea Sporobolus, Castanea
edulis, Pteris dimediata, etc., occurred. Noticed the tracks of a Tiger,
of Elks, and the Peewit or Curlew.

Woollaboom is rather a large village on the Nempyokha, which is here
scarcely 40 yards broad; it is of no depth, and has not much stream. The
villagers are Meereps, but seem to bear a small proportion to their
Assamese slaves. It is not stockaded, but was so formerly. The Souba,
like a Hero and a General, has erected a small stockade for himself near
his house, out of which he might be with ease forced by a long spear, or
a spear-head fastened to a bamboo. He is an enemy of the Duphas, indeed
almost all appear to be so. Whatever events the return of this Gam to
Assam may cause, it appears obvious to me, that the feuds in Hookhoom
will not cease but with his death. So much is he hated, that B. informs
me that his destruction is meditated directly the Meewoon retires to
Mogam.

Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. Elevat. 1064 feet.

List of Plants observed in Hookhoom, which occur likewise in Assam.

Eclipta floribus albis, Dactylon.
Pogonatherum crinitum, Cardamine.
Verbena chamaedrys? Sisymbrium.
Phlebochiton extensum, Gaertnera.
Ehretia arenarum, Phrynium capitatum.
Erythrinae, sp. ----- dichotomum.
Trematodon sabulosum, Hiraea.
Marchantia asamica, Naravalia.
Euphorbiacea nerifolia, Liriodendrum.
Adelia nereifolia, Roxb. Paederia foetida, and another.
Spilanthus, Azolla.
Convolvulus flore albo, Lemna.
Mimosa sudiyensis-stipulis am- Conyza graveolens,
plis foliaceis, on clearings.
Vandellia pedunculata, Asplenium nidus.
Bonnayae sp. fol. spathulatis Ficus elastica.
floribus saturate caeruleis, Kydia calycina.
Cordia of Suddiya, Pothos scandens.
Ricinus communis, (See Journal, Croton malvaefolium.
p.174.) Hedychium.
Buddleia Neemda, Hedychim, bracteis
obtusis, apice
reflexis, concavis.
Urtica gigas,
Plantago media, Dicksonia.
Cotula, 2 species, Phlogacanthus, _major_.
Coladium nympheaefolium, Vitis.
Millingtonia pinnata, Butomus pygmaeus.
Uricariae sp. Cissampelos.
Saccharum spontaneum, Stauntonia.
Eleusine indica, Apludae sp.
Cynoglossum canescens, Clerodendrum infortunatum.
AEsculus asamicus, Vandellia pedunculata.
Cynodon, Mangifera indica.
Ardisia fol. obovatis, umbellis Briedelia.
nutanti-pendulis, on the hills. Marlea.
Cheilosandra. Pteris dimidiata.
Loxotis major. Centotheca.
Bauhinia variegata. Castanea edulis.
Cacalia rosea. Sporobolus.

CHAPTER V.

_Continues the Journey from Hookhoom Valley_; _Lat_. _26_
_degrees 20' N_., _Long_. _96 degrees 40' E_., _towards Ava_.

_March 28th_.--Started at 5.5 A.M., and arrived at a halting place at
3.5 P.M. General direction nearly south. Distance 22 miles. Throughout
the first part we followed the Kampyet, on the left bank of which
Wulloboom is situated. We thence diverged into jungle. The remainder of
the time was occupied in crossing low hills, with here and there a small
plain. We halted on a nullah, which discharges itself into the Mogam
river.

In the Kampyet I saw abundance of Bookhar fish: these indeed actually
swarm. The country throughout was uninteresting, although in the tree
jungle clothing the small hills we crossed there are noble timber trees.
I saw one of the finest Fici, I ever saw. The Botany of these hills was
very interesting; for instance, a Conifera taxoidea occurred, a new
Cyrtandracea, ditto Acanthaceae 2, Begoniae 2, Tankervillia speciosa, a
species of Bletea, etc. etc.

I also observed Lindsaea, and Pteris in abundance. Hymenophyllum,
Davallia atrata, Diplazium, Begonia Malabarica? Bambusa spiculis
hispidis, Hypni sp. spinivenio prop. Dicranum glaucum, etc. etc. A fine
Alpinia occurred near Wulloboom.

We observed no other signs of population than an old burial ground, near
where you strike off into the hills.

_March 29th_.--Marched in a southerly direction from 5.5 to 1.5 P.M.,
inclusive of a halt of two hours nearly: distance fifteen miles. Country,
etc. continue the same. Crossed same nullahs _en route_, before we
reached the Mogam river at 11 A.M. Our course continued down it for 300
yards; we then crossed into the jungle, and traversed a low rising
ground: subsequently we descended on the bed of the river. The jungle
was for the most part dry.

Fish abound in the Mogam river; in one place I never saw such swarms of
Bookhar, thousands must have been congregated. The river is of no great
size, the extreme banks being at our halting place about 30 yards
distant. No rapids occur here, and the stream is in general gentle.

Noticed the Shorea, which is the _Foung bein_ of the Burmese. Some
occurred of gigantic size. It is strange, but a considerable change has
occurred in the Flora since we left Hookhoom. Thus, Jonesia and
Peronema, Jack? or at least one of the involucrate Vitices occurred, as
well as a large Byttneria? fructibus echinatissimis. A climbing species
of Strychnos, a Diospyros, a Sapindacea, were the principal new plants.
Dicksonia and Polypodium Wallichianum continue.

Slackia of Cuttackboom has white infundibuliform bilabiate flowers, tubo
brevi, deorsum leniter curvato, lobo medio labii inferioris reliquis
minore, lab. super. intus biplicato, plicis sursum convergentibus, stam.
quinto valde rudimentario, antheris apice cohaerentibus. The new
Cyrthandracea of yesterday is suigeneris, Ramondiae affinis. Of this
there are three species, two of which I have not seen in flower. Calycis
laciniae lineari-subulatae. Cor. rotata, subregularis Stam. 4,
subsessilia connectivis amplis, quinto minimo dentiformi. Stylus
declinatus, Stigma subsimplex, Capsula (per junior) siliquosa. Herbae
vel suffrutices, hispidae, habitu peculiari. Folia alterna! vel summa
sparsa vel ob approximationem sub-opposita: intervenia areolata, areolis
piliferis, pilis basi bulbosis. Inflorescentia axillaris, cymosa,
dichotoma.

The Tankervellia (or Pharus?) has sepala pet. conformia extus alba, intus
fusco-brunnea, labellum cucullatum, breve, calcaratum; intus inconspicue
bilamellatum; extus albidum margines versus exceptis qua uti intus fusco-
sanguineum, fauce saturatiore. Columnae albae clavale sursum subulata.
Anthera fere immersa, Rostellum integrum ut in omnibus glandula orbotis
Pollinia 8. 5 A.M.--Temperature 62. 210.

_March 30th_.--Marched for about thirteen miles along the bed of the
river, and a more uninteresting march I never had. We breakfasted about
four miles from our halting place at the granary of the Meewoon. The bed
of the river continues wider, and more sandy: the water being in general
shallow. The only acquisitions met with to-day are Grislea, an
arborescent Capparidea, and a pretty Grewia. Of birds, I noticed the
Avocet, or curved-billed Plover, the grey Kingfisher, the green Pigeon,
and the snake-bird, Plutus Levalliantia. The plants occupying the banks
and the bed of the river are the same, viz. Ehretia, Saccharum
spontaneum, spirale; _Kagara_, Erythrina, Ficus, Gnaphalia, Podomolee,
Bombax. Of fish, Cyprinus falcata, and _Nepoora mas_, occur in this
river.

Temperature at 5.25 A.M. 6l. Water boils at 210.

_March 31st_.--Continued our march down the Mogaung river, passing
through a most uninteresting, inhospitable-looking tract. General
direction S.E., distance fourteen miles. The river is not much enlarged:
it is still shallow, and much spread out, and impeded by fallen trees and
stumps; it is navigable for small boats up to the Meewoon's granary.
Noticed AEsculus in flower. Of birds, saw the grey and black-bellied
Tern.

The Botanical novelties are an arborescent Salix, a ditto Cordia floribus
suave odoratis, Phyllanthus Embelica.

Saw some cultivation on low hills to the S.E. and E. inhabited by
Kukheens. 1st April. Temperature 63. Water 210.25 altitude.

_April 1st_.--Started at 5.25. Leaving almost directly the Mogaung
river we traversed extensive open plains, halting for breakfast on the
Wampama Kioung. This we crossed, continuing through open plains until we
came to patches of jungle consisting of trees, and quite dry. We
subsequently traversed more open plains until we reached the Mogaung
river, on the opposite (right) bank of which Camein is situated. These
plains were in many places quite free from trees; they are, except
towards the south, quite surrounded with low hills, the highest of which
are to the E., and among these, Shewe Down Gyee, from which the Nam Tenai
rises, is pre-eminent, looking as if it were 3000 feet high, and upwards.
The hills although generally wooded are in many places quite naked; and
as the natives say, this is not owing to previous cultivations, I suppose
that they are spots naturally occupied entirely by Gramineae. The plains
slope towards the hills on either side. They are covered with Gramineae;
among which Imperata, occasionally Podomolee and Saccharum, Anthistiria
arundinacea, a tall Rottboelia, and Andropogon occur; and in the more
open spaces a curious Rottboellioidea, glumis ciliatis, is common. In
addition a Polygala, a Crucifera with bracteae and white flowers, an
Acanthacea, Prenanthes? Centranthera tetrastachys are met with. The
trees are quite different from those of Hookhoom; the principal one is a
Nauclea; Bombax, Wendlandiae sp., a Rhamnea, Phyllanthus, and Bignonia
cordifolia occur; the Nauclea giving a character to the scenery. The
Botany of the patches of jungle is varied. Strychnos Nux-vomica is
common; Congea tomentosa, Engelhardtia, etc. Bauhinia arborea, and
Costus also occur.

Teak occurred to-day for the first time, but not in abundance, neither
were the specimens fine: it was past flowering, it occurred only between
the patches of jungle among grass. I should have mentioned, that
throughout the first portion of the plains traversed, a dioceous dwarf
Phoenix was not rare, as well as an Herpestes. A beautiful Rose occurs
on the banks of nullahs, and at Camein, on the Mogaung river: it has
large white flowers, involucrate; smell sweet like that of a Jonquil.

The general direction of the march was S.S.E. Distance fourteen miles.

Camein consists of two stockaded villages: the smaller one being situated
on a small hill on the Endaw Kioung, which comes from near the serpentine
mines, and falls into the Mogaung river here; this has about twelve
houses: the one below about twenty, the inhabitants are Shans chiefly,
and appear numerous and healthy. Assamese slaves are not uncommon.

Observed the large blue Kingfisher of the Tenasserim coast, _Alcedo_
_sinensis_.

The day's Botany was very interesting, more so than that of any other
days, excepting two on the higher ranges of the Naga hills. The
Crucifera is highly interesting. In the woods Alstonia and Elephantopus;
Salvinia is common in marshes.

_April 2nd_.--Left at 10 A.M., proceeding over the low hill to the W.
of lower Camein; our course continued traversing low ranges and small
intermediate plains, which we skirted. At noon we reached the Tsee Een
nullah, where we found a large party of Shan Chinese, returning from the
mines; they had but few Ponies, and still fewer Mules. Their dress,
appearance, habits, etc. are those of the lower orders of Chinese. After
leaving this our course continued over similar country, until we reached
the Endaw Kioung at 3 P.M., which we crossed, halting on its left bank;
it is a stream of much strength and a broad bed, but shallow. We saw
some cultivation on low hills to the W.N.W., and could distinguish two or
three houses; it is a small village inhabited by Meereps.

The vegetation of the valleys or plains continues the same, but in
addition to the Rottboelleoidea minor, is a curious Andropogon, and on
the skirts of the hills a large Anthistiria; some of the finest specimens
of teak also occurred. Bamboo in abundance; otherwise the trees are,
with a few exceptions, completely changed. A fine arborescent
Wendlandia, Bignonia indica? fructibus siliquo-formibus spiraliter
tortis, arborea, Kydia, Eurya arborea, and many other fine trees
occurred, but these I leave until my return. On one plain I noticed a
Cycas, caudice simplici vel dichotomo, and the Phoenix of yesterday. In
the Endaw Kioung two species of Potamogeton, Azolla, and Pistia,
Villarsia and Ceratophyllum occur.

_April 3rd_.--5.25 A.M. Therm. 55. Water boiled at 210. Elevation
1064 feet.

Continued our journey over similar country, marching from half-past 5 to
1 P.M., including an hour's halt. Distance fifteen miles: general
direction S.S.W. Passed many streamlets, and continued for some time
close to the Endaw, which is still a largish river, apparently deep, with
a sluggish stream. The plains continue, but of much narrower diameter.
Met many Shan Chinese and two parties of Mogaung people returning from
the mines.

The most interesting plants of to-day are a Santalacea, a climbing
species, racemis subpendulis, of Citrus--Citrus scandens, Cardiopteris of
which I found old fruit alone, a new Roydsia, R. parviflora mihi.

The vegetation of the plains continues unchanged, a Dillenia with small
yellow flowers is common on their skirts, Bignonia cordata occurs as a
large tree; no one has seen teak. There is something peculiar in the
appearance of the trees of the plains, especially of the Nauclea; they
look scraggy. I picked up the flowers of an arborescent Hibiscus, and
the fruit of Lagertraemia grandiflora.

Halted on an old rice khet, near a pool of tolerably clear water.

Bignonia cordata has sweet smelling flowers, lab. medio labii inferioris
bicristato. Is it not rather a Viticea, owing to the absence of the 5th
stamen? Phlebochiton, Sambucus, Butomus pygmaeus. Many portions of the
hills are covered with plantains in immense numbers, (not Musa glauca).
On hills bounding to the south, one or two spots of cultivation belonging
to a village in the interior occur. The Shans wear curious sandals made
of a sort of hemp, at least those who do not wear the usual Chinese
shoes. _4th_.--5.25 A.M. Temperature 55.5. Water boiled at 210.
Elevation as before.

_April 4th_.--Continued our course through exactly the same kind of
country, the plains becoming much narrower. Reached the path leading to
Keouk Seik after five hours' marching, and up to this our course was
nearly the same with that of yesterday, between W.S.W. and S.W. We did
not see the village; several (seven or eight) houses are visible on the
hill, which here extends north and south, and along which runs a nullah,
the Kam Theem.

From this place our course continued almost entirely over low hills not
exceeding 800 feet above us, until we halted on the margin of a plain
bounded to the W. by the Boom, which runs N. and S., the direction being
W.N.W. Distance seventeen miles. On our march we met several parties of
Shans, Burmese, and Singphos. The path from the village to this is much
better, and much more frequented than any of the other parts. Most of
the parties were loaded with Serpentine. Noticed _en route_, both on
the plains and on the hills, Teak; in the latter situations many of the
specimens were very fine. Another noble Dipterocarpea arborea was
observed. I observed Drymaria, Vallaris solanacea, and a Spathodia,
which is common on the plains. Teak is remarkable for the smoothness and
peculiar appearance of its bark, so that it seems to have had it stripped
off.

Gathered on the hills Ulmus and Hyalostemma, the petals of which are
united into a tri-partite corolla, a Cyrtandracea in fruit, and an
Olacinea, floribus tri-sepalis, appendicibus 6 apice fimbriatis, stam. 3,
sepalis oppositis, racemis erectis.

_April 5th_.--Reached the mines after a march of about four hours; our
course was winding, continuing through jungle and small patches of plain,
until we reached the base of that part of the Kuwa Boom which we were to
cross, and which bore N.W. from the place at which we slept. The ascent
was steep in some places, it bore in a N.N.W. direction, principally
through a bamboo jungle. From a clear space half way up, we had a fine
and pretty view of the hills and plains, especially to the S. and S.E. In
the former direction, and distant about fifteen miles, we saw on our
return, the Endaw Gyee, but we could not estimate its size or figure; it
is evidently however a large sheet of water; the natives say, several
miles across. From the summit, we likewise had a fine view of the
country to the E.; very few plains were visible in this direction. Nearly
due east, and about thirty miles off, was visible Shewe Down Gyee, and
this will make Camein nearly due east also, or E. by S. The descent
passed through similar jungle, that at the foot being damp. The course
continued in a direction varying from S. to W., or rather between these
points, through damp jungle. We then ascended another steep hill, but
not exceeding 5 or 600 feet in height; descending from this, and passing
through low tree and then bamboo jungle, we reached the mines.

The road was, up to the base of Kuwa Boom on the W. side, very good,
thence it was in general bad; wet, slippery, much impeded by blocks of
serpentine, and foliated limestone (Bayfield) crossing several streams,
mountain torrents, the principal one being Sapya Khioung. This takes its
name from a spring of water of alkaline properties, which bubbles up
sparingly from under its rocky bed, and which must be covered during the
rains. The water is clear, of a pure alkaline taste, and is used by the
natives as soap.

The mines occupy a valley of a somewhat semi-circular form, bounded on
all sides by hills clothed with trees, none being of very great height.
The valley passes off to the N. into a ravine, down which the small
stream that percolates the valley escapes, and in this at about a coss
distant other pits occur. The surface of the valley apparently at one
time consisted of low rounded hillocks; it is now much broken, and choked
up with the earth and stones that have been thrown up by excavating. The
stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders imbedded with
others, such as quartz, etc. in brickish-yellow or nearly orange clay.
The boulders vary much in size. There is no regularity in the pits,
which are dug indiscriminately; some have the form of ditches, none
exceed 20 feet in depth. They are dug all over the valley, as well as on
the base of the hill bounding it to the W. and N.W. We could not obtain
any good specimens, nor is there any thing in the spot that repays the
visit. No machinery is used, the larger blocks are broken by fire. But
that they are of importance in the light of increasing the revenue, is
evident, from the fact that B. counted, since we left Camein, 1,100
people on their return, of whom about 700 were Shan Chinese. The loads
carried away are in some cases very heavy; the larger pieces are carried
on bamboo frames by from two to five men, the lesser on a stout piece of
bamboo lashed to and supported on two cross or forked bamboos, the
stouter joint resting on the bearer's neck, the handles of the forks
being carried in his hands. The most obvious advantage of this is the
ease with which the load may be taken off, when the bearer is fatigued.
The revenue yielded last year, B. tells me, was 320 viss of silver, or
about 40,000 rupees. The length of the valley from E. to W. is about
three quarters of a mile; its breadth varies from 460 to 800 yards.

On our return we boiled water at the Soap spring, which is about 50 feet
above the mines, Temp. of the air 80.5. 2.5 P.M. of boiling water 209.
Elevation 1600 feet. And on the top of Kuwa Boom, which is crossed at a
comparatively low place, at 4.5 P.M. Temp. of the air 76, of boiling
water 207. Elevation 2678 feet.

I can say nothing as to the peculiar features of the vegetation, in the
woods towards Kuwa Boom. I gathered three Aurantiaceae; the Olacinea of
yesterday is common, a large arborescent Artocarpus fructibus oblongis
sub-informibus, sub-acidulis, .75 uncialibus; Teak rarely; Tonabea, noble
specimens occur; on the Kuwa Boom, a large Gordonia arborea, two
arborescent Myrtacea, large Mangoes, Bamboo, a Morinda; Magnoliaecea
occurs on its western face, as well as the Conifera toxoidea before
gathered. Dicksonia and Pladera justicioidea both occur. Dianella
nemorosa, etc. The Serpentine is carried from Keoukseik in boats down
the Endaw Kioung, thence to Camein, and from whence it goes to Mogam,
which is probably the principal mart. Calamus spioris petiolorum
uncialibus verticillatis occurs in abundance in all the damp jungle.

We returned in the afternoon to our halting place of yesterday, from
which the mines are distant ten miles, four of which occur from the side
of Kuwa Boom to the West. The Endaw Gyee is situated on a plain, but it
is enclosed by hills on every side except the S.E. Those to the south
are very high.

_April 6th_.--Returned, diverging from the path to the village
Keoukseik. Noticed Liriodendron, AEsculus, Achyranthis aspera, Vallaris
solanacea, etc.

The village is situated to the S. of the road to the mines; it is close
to the Nam Teen, and on a small elevation; it is stockaded. The number
of houses is about sixteen; of inhabitants, including children, 120: all
the houses, except two, being small. The merchants, etc. employed about
the mines, halt on the Nam Theen, which is up to this point navigable for
small boats.

Thermometer 66. 6.5 A.M. Temp. of boiling water 210.

_April 8th_.--Reached Camein at noon: halted on the 7th at our former
hut on the Endaw Kioung. The additional plants noticed are Duchesnia
indica, common in wet places; a Bamboo, paniculis (culmis) nutantibus
aphyllis, amplus. Pandanus; Curculigo pumila, floribus sub-solitarius
ante folia, 6 vel. 4 partitis; a Careya, Dillenia, arborea floribus
numerosis parvis luteis.

AEschynomena, Anthistiria arundinacea, Composita arborea, 40-50 pedalis.
Another species of Anthistiria, common on the margins of hills during the
march. Fir trees are reported to exist on _Lioe Peik_, which bears
South from Kioukseik. Volcanic hills reported to exist near the Endaw
Gyee, but no salt rock occurs. This mineral is said to be found three
days' march from Kioukseik on the Nam Theen. The revenue said to accrue
from the Serpentine mines, is probably highly exaggerated; and the supply
of the stone is said to be diminishing yearly. Casually found on the Nam
Toroon, a Sterculia arborea, florib-masculis clavato, infundibul.
coccineis, pubescentibus: a Sophora, floribus albidis pallidissima
ceruleo tinctis, of which the flowers alone were seen; Prenanthis
flosentis citrinis, a Polygala and Hypericum were likewise found.

_April 9th_.--Left Camein at 6, and reached Mogoung at 6 P.M. after a
march of at least twenty-five miles. The course at first was nearly due
east, until we reached the Nam Pong, but subsequently it became more
southerly. Camein bears from this about S.S.E. The country traversed
was the same, generally comparatively open, that is to say, grassy plains
with Rhamnea, Nauclea, Bombax, etc. For some distance the path extended
through shady woods. No villages, nor any signs of such were observed
_en route_. We passed many streamlets particularly during the latter
half of the march. Our original intention was to have come to Mogoung by
water, and with this view Bayfield told the man sent by the Myoowook to
procure two or three canoes. At 6 A.M. the Havildar came up to our hut,
and said that the headman of the village was disputing violently about
our taking the boats. Bayfield proceeded down to the river side, where
the Yua Thugee was very insolent, and he and his followers drew their
_dhaos_ (swords) on Bayfield, who slightly pushed the Thugee. It ended
in our going by land. We had previously heard of the rebellion at Ava:
the Thugee's behaviour evidently arose partly from this. I did not
observe the dispute, as I remained near the stockade.

Noticed a Lonicera in low places, and the Viola of Suddiya on the plains,
a Cardiopteris, Kempferia, Curcuma, a Bambusa vaginis collo barbatis, a
scandent Strychnos, an Aerides, Ardisiae 2, some Acanthaceae, Loxotis
major, Urticeae 2 or 3, Santalacea as before, Tetrantherae, Davallia
atrata, Asplenium fronde simplici, etc. etc.

_April 10th_.--We halt, and hear a report of the death of Mr. Kincaid,
and that a Burmese army is _en route_ here. The whole country is most
unsettled, all the Singphos and Khukeens being in open rebellion. It
appears that Thurrawaddi is meeting with success in his summons for men.
No resistance shewn to his authority hitherto except by one Myoowoon. Our
Myoowoon has absented himself, and the Myoowook determined on surrender.
Bayfield under all circumstances, and failing authentic intelligence of
Mr. Kincaid, resolves on remaining here.

Mogam is a rather pretty town, situated on the right bank of the Mogoung
river, at the confluence of a river 100 yards broad, the water of which
spreads out, in some places, to a considerable breadth and depth. The
country is however low, flooded in the rains, and surrounded by hills,
except in the direction of Shewe Down Gyee. In many places it is only
covered with grass. The town is large, and was formerly stockaded, the
remains of the timber stockade being still visible. It contains about
300 houses, about 2,500 inhabitants, mostly Shans. The houses are
generally raised, in many cases like those of the Kampties, the chopper
coming low down, shaped like a turtle's back. There is a very distinct
opening or chasm in the hills between S. D. Gyee and a low range to the
North, but no river makes its exit there. Sunday, 16th.

_April 18th_.--Halted up to this date, waiting for information
especially regarding the army at Tsenbo.

In this place two fragrant Dipterocarpeae are found; as also Bixa,
Tamarindus, and Carthamus, which last is cultivated and used both for
food and dyeing. About the Poongie houses some remarkable Fici occur,
the trunk being divided so low down as to give the idea of a group of
several trees. The roots in addition are made to spread over the conical
mounds, thrown up at their bases.

A race of wild-looking short men, called Lupai Khakoos, inhabit this
vicinity, wearing a jacket, and dark-blue cloth with an ornamented
border, worn with the ends overlapping in front. They wear garters of
the Suwa. Their hair is worn either long or cropped, and a beard is also
occasionally worn by the elders.

In this place very few regular Chinese are to be found, and the few that
are here seen, are ultra-provincials; none are acquainted with the
manufacture of tea. This article is procurable here, but at a high rate;
it is sold in flat cakes of some diameter; it is black, coarse, with
scarcely any smell, and in taste not much superior to the Assamese
article; 20 tickals weight sells for 1.25. All the blue cloths of the
Shans are dyed, Bayfield informs me, with Ruellia, or jungle indigo.

It is with these people that the only trade seems to be carried on, and
this is limited to amber and serpentine. They are very dirty, and
excessively penurious, but industrious. Owing to their habits and
extreme penury, there is no outlet for our manufactures in this
direction; so that I fully agree with Hannay's statement, that 500 rupees
worth of British goods would be unabsorbed for some years. Rosa is
common, also a Rumex; a Sisymbroid plant also occurs. Among the trees,
all which are stunted, Gmelina arborea occurs. There are some Assamese
slaves here among the people, one of them is said to be a relation of
Chundra Kant, the Suddiya chief: slaves are held in very small estimation
with the Burmese. Thus Bayfield asked his writer, who such a one
standing near him was, whether a Shan or Singpho? The man answered, "My
lord, it is not a man; it is a Waidalee."

Altogether, Mogoung is an uninteresting place; the surrounding plains are
barren-looking, and inhospitable, and clothed with grass. Here and there
a ragged Nauclea, Careya, etc. is visible with Gmelina arborea. The
undershrubs are chiefly a Rhamnoidea, and a Phyllanthus. Rosa is common;
Rumex and Nasturtium are both met with.

News arrived yesterday evening to the effect, that the King is drowned,
the heir-apparent in the palace: and that Colonel Burney is with
Thurrawadi!!!

My collections up to this place amount to 900 species.

_April 19th_.--Left at 12, and halted after having gone about four
miles. The river continues the same as above; it is a good deal impeded
by trees, and much more so by sandbanks.

_April 20th_.--Reached Tapaw in the afternoon; our progress is,
however, very slow the stream being slight, but the river is much
improved; being less spread out, owing to its greater proximity to the
low hills: often very deep, generally clothed with jungle to the water's
edge. On the hills near Tapaw are some Khukeens of the Thampraw tribe,
and on these hills bitter tea is reported to be found. This the Khukeens
bring down for sale.

_April 21st_.--Continued our course, performing about twelve miles
between 7 and 5, inclusive of one hour's halt. At some distance from
Tapaw and thence throughout the day, here and there occur rapids, which
are much worse, from the stream being impeded by large rocks. In some
places it is divided, in others, compressed between hills, and here it is
very deep.

_April 23rd_.--Arrived at the Irrawaddi. The Mogoung river is very
uninteresting; the stream being generally slow, sandbanks very abundant,
as well as stumps of sunken trees. At its mouth it is deep, and about
seventy yards across. The banks are either overgrown with trees or else
grassy; the grasses being Arundo and Saccharum. On the steep banks of
the hills where these descend into the river, ferns are common together
with an Amaryllidea out of flower. Cadaba is common, as well as a large
Mimosea. Rosa continues; as also AEsculus. On the road by which the
Chinese branch off from Tapaw to the Irrawaddi, I gathered an arborescent
Apocynea foliis suboppositis, and a Homalineous tree, floribus
tetrameris; Salix is common all down the river. Teak only occurs
occasionally. In one place I gathered Lonicera heterophylla, a fragrant
Valeriana? and Jonesia in abundance; this last being here apparently
quite wild. Adelia nereifolia, a Ficus, Ehretia arenarum, and the usual
sandy plants occur on the banks. Pistia, Salvinia and Azolla are common.

The Irrawaddi opposite the entrance of the Mogoung river, is 600 yards
across. It is a noble stream; has risen a good deal, and presents one
unbroken sheet of water. The banks are by no means high, and are grassed
to the brink. The water is cold and clouded; its temperature is 66.5
degrees, that of air in a boat 88.5. We reached Tsenbo about 1 o'clock,
having passed five or six villages, mostly small, and inhabited by Shans.
Tsenbo numbers about 30 houses, but these as throughout Burma, as far as
we have seen, are small; it is situated on a low hill on the left bank.
Both banks are hilly, especially the right. The river has risen
enormously during a halt here--many feet. In one hour we found it to
rise about 16 inches. At this place I gathered a fine blue Vanda, and a
curious tree habitu Thespiae: stigmatibus 4. Between this and the
entrance to the narrow defile Kioukdweng, which is about 1.5 miles
distant, three villages occur. This entrance is well marked, the river
becoming suddenly contracted from 300 to less than 100 yards. We halted
about 6.5 P.M. at Lemar. Noticed four or five villages between Lemar and
the village at the entrance of the defile. All these villages are
inhabited by Poans, a distinct hill tribe. Passed through two fearful
places, one in particular where the whole body of water rushes through a
_gate_, formed by huge rocks not 50 yards wide.

_April 24th_.--Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5.5
P.M.; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, or
defile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known by
two rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Passed several small
villages before we made our exit from the K. dweng: all inhabited by
Poans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is truly
magnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about
70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted.

The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadth
of the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards,
and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally
50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night alone
amounted to an increase of ten feet, the passage is one continued scene
of anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by with
great velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by the
surrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as to
render the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could not
live in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone,
presenting angular masses which project into the stream; the former in
all places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceous
slate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of course
enormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield passed up, in many
places no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this season
the water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise that
has taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, when
Bayfield passed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it was
now 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, would
determine one of at least 40 within the K. dweng. After passing the
Elephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by their
fanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of this
Kioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque.

The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills about
Mogoung; but so dangerous was the passage, that I had but few
opportunities of going ashore. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bear
many impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivation
are certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spots
cultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India are
deserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population may
clear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider his
authority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited to
the villages seen during the passage. These do not exceed twelve, and
they are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height
(apparently,) they do not present any very peculiar features.

Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at least
that of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelia
nereifolia (Roxb.), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also have
from Moulmain, two Myrtaceae, a Rungia, are the most common. I did not
observe Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usual
Compositae, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex are
common, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematis
carpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear to
occur. One remarkable tree, _Belhoe_ of Assam, 70 feet high, cortice
albido, foliis orbato, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has the
appearance of an Amentaceous tree.

_April 27th_.--We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have been
settled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen at
least three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channel
yesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide.

Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its principal street
runs. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200
yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses,
and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, _i.e_. as
to length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that the
population cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only to
those within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two or
three small villages. The stockade is of timber, _pangaed_, or fenced
outside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as an
attack is expected from the Khukeens.

The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built of
unbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. There
is but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, low
swampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness of
the town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in pagodas, none of which
are worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care of
themselves.

The _inferior caked tea_, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, and
caps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and the
bazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place than
Mogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with the
Chinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of the
Mogoung district.

The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there is
an extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry,
and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; at
present the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed no
peculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanthae 2,
Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma.
When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. The
only new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis,
odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old Pagodas, Pladera
of Moulmain, a Labiata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur.

The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, Bixa
Orellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus,
Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coarse
Custard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati.

The climate is dry and sultry, the diurnal range of the Thermometer being
from 28 to 32 degrees. At this season, viz. at 6.5 A.M. from 66 to 68; 4
P.M. from 94 to 96. North winds are common, daily commencing from that
quarter, or terminating there. They are not accompanied by much rain,
although the weather is unsettled.

_May 2nd_.--A Khukeen whom Bayfield sent for tea returned, bringing
with him many specimens out of flower. The striking difference between
this and the tea I have hitherto seen, consists in the smallness and
finer texture of the leaves. For although a few of the specimens had
leaves measuring six by three inches, yet the generality, and these were
mature, measured from four to three, by two to three. As both entire and
serrated leaves occur, the finer texture was more remarkable. The
bitterness, as well as the peculiar flavour were most evident. Young
leaves were abundant.

The Khukeens make no use of the tea. The Chinese here talk of this as
the jungle tea, and affirm that it cannot be manufactured into a good
article. They talk of the valuable sorts as being very numerous, and all
as having small leaves. Neither here nor at Mogoung are there any real
Chinamen, nor is there any body who understands the process of
manufacturing tea. The caked tea is not made to adhere by the serum of
sheep's blood, it adheres owing to being thus packed before it is dry.
The plain around Bamoo is intersected by ravines, which afford good paddy
cultivation; no large trees occur within 1.5 miles of the town. At this
distance a large Dipterocarpea is common. In the underwood around the
town, a Dipterocarpus, arbuscula, foliis maximis, oblongo-cordatis,
Gordonia, Lagerstraemia parviflora, Elodea, Nauclea; Leguminosae 3,
Gelonia, Combretum, Jasminum occur. In the marshes Ammannia
rotundifolia, Cyrilla, Azolla, Marsilea, and Salvinia, Serpicula,
Ceratophyllum; a Campanula _arenosa_ reaches thus far.

Every day indecent sights occur in the river, owing to the women bathing
without clothes, and either with or near the men. They appear to be
indifferent to the concealment of their person, breasts, and hoc genus
omne, being freely exposed. They swim very well, and in a curious way.
They make their escape by squatting down in the water, unfolding their
cloth, and springing up behind it. As for the men, they appear to take a
pride in exposing every part of their bodies. No gazers-on occur among
these people, such not being the fashion.

The Shan Tarooks who trade with this place use oxen in addition to other
beasts of burden; the breed appears good, resembling the smaller kind of
India.

The Irrawaddi here is between the extreme banks a little less than 1.5
miles broad; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the largest, and is
800 yards across. Two other channels exist, of which the west is the
smallest, and carries off least water. The river is a good deal
sub-divided by sandbanks, but is, compared with the Burrumpooter a
confined river. Since our arrival here it has sunk several (say five or
six) feet, and no longer looks the noble river it did on our arrival.

The sandbanks when they do exist are either naked, or clothed with
partial and not gigantic grassy vegetation. I have not seen any thing
comparable to the churs of the B. pooter in this respect. The
temperature of the river is not particularly low, and is much higher now
than during the rise. From Bamoo the opening of the Kioukdweng is not
conspicuous, nobody unacquainted with the course of the river would
imagine that it passes through the range of hills to the N. and NNE. The
highest hills visible are to the east. They are within a day's journey,
and are clothed to their summits. Some appear 3000 feet high.

Low hills inhabited by wild Khukeens, are visible nearly all around,
except perhaps due west. The wild fierce nature of these people is
attended with a great extent of mischief, quite unchecked, without
eliciting even precautionary measures on the part of the Burmese
Government.

There are a few angles in the Bamoo stockade, and these exist because a
straight line cannot be preserved; and large torches are placed out on
levers for illuminating the enemy, and loop-holes are cut through the
timbers; watch-houses are likewise placed at certain points. There are
two rows of _pangahs_ or fences outside, but not the Singpho pangahs.
Notwithstanding all this the river face is quite defenceless.

The soil is dry and sandy, and cultivation is carried on principally on
the churs. Pumpkins and Gourds are abundant; Yams, (Dioscorea,) not very
good. Rice is sold at the usual price, a basket full for a rupee. The
town is dirty, and not kept in any order.

_May 6th_.--We left Bamoo, and in three hours reached Kounglaun, a
rather large village on the left bank, containing 100 houses, many of
which are respectable, better indeed than any in Bamoo. It contains many
small ruined pagodas. A gigantic tree grows within the stockade, which
is a very poor one. Punica Granatum, and Beloe, were the only plants of
interest observed in the neighbourhood.

We passed several (six or seven) villages, none except one with more than
thirty houses; the one alluded to had sixty. All the houses continue
small. The river is here much subdivided, and in many places shallow;
sandbanks are common. Vegetation of banks is almost entirely Gramineae,
and coarse strong-smelling Compositae. The grasses are different from
those previously met with, except the Arundo. Rosa continues; Salix is
common. Between Koungloung and Tsenkan, which is on the same bank, and
close to the entrance to the Kioukdweng, three villages are met with; but
none of any size. Tsenkan is prettily situated on a high bank, or rather
low hill. The houses are about 100 in number, all poor and small. The
stockade is a miserable affair. There are some good Poonghie houses, and
a very pretty group of pagodas on a small rock. The country is jungly;
just above the town a nullah enters the Irrawaddi: it is down this that
large quantities of teak is brought, from hills two days' journey to the
eastward; some large rafts were seen, but although some of the timbers
were stout, none were of any great size. I gathered a pretty
Hippocrateaceous plant in the jungles, as well as a Combretum; a Vitex,
an Amyridea, etc. Phrynium dichotomum occurs here; Rosa continues;
Jatropha is cultivated.

_May 7th_.--Started at 5 A.M., and entered the Kioukdweng almost
immediately. We halted about 7, at Tsenbo. Noticed AEsculus,
Sisymbrium, Campanula, Adelia nereifolia, Dillania speciosa, the usual
Compositae, and largish Dipterocarpeae. The river is a good deal
narrowed, but never less than 130 yards across, and as there are no rocks
in any direction to impede the stream, the water flows but slowly and
very placidly. Almost all the rocks forming the hills are grey carbonate
of lime. These hills are covered to high-water mark, with scanty
somewhat stunted trees, the most of which have no foliage. The scenery
is by no means so bold as in the upper K. dweng, although just above
Tsenbo, there is a noble cliff, 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular;
under its ledges we observed great numbers of bees' nests. The rock when
exposed is rather greyish black, and in many places reddish. Serpentine
occurs, but is not common. A good deal of lime is prepared in this
Kioukdweng, and some portions of it in the rugged serrated appearance,
remind one of the limestone cliffs on the coast. Above Tsenbo and nearly
opposite the cliff, is a small village of eight houses. Tsenbo numbers
fifteen; it is on the left bank, and is a miserable place. Here we were
left by our escort which accompanied us from Tsenkan, and the Thogee
refused positively to give us two or three men to row. Although master
of a miserable hole, he had made preparations for defence, and had set on
foot a custom house. We saw a good many boats passing up, all evidently
containing families moving away from their villages.

In this Kioukdweng a fine Palm exists, which I have never seen before.
Caudex 10-15 pedalis, crassa, petiolorum basibus processibus vestitis,
frondibus pinnatis, 10 pedalibus, pinnis ensifornibus 2 to 2.5 pedalibus,
subtus glaucis, diametro 1.5 uncialibus, basi valde obliquis, bilobis!
lobo inferiore maximo, decurrenti, uninervi: floribus in spadicibus
nutanti-curvatis, amplis, basi spathaceis spicato-paniculatis. Florib.
masculis polyandris.

Petiol. bases cretosae, intus processubus atris, subulatis, longissimis
robustis quasi panicillatis.

Habitus quodammodo Wallichiae. Hab. in Umbrosissimis.

An arbuscula Anonacea, floribus dioicis, Mas. corollae petalis apice
valvatim cohaerentibus, basi apertis, potius distantibus, Ovariis (faem)
pedicellatis, also occurred.

Fructus elliptico-oblongus, subuncialis, hinc a basi ad styli punctum
linea tenui exsculptus, unilocularis, unisporus. Endocarp, ac testa
viscoso-gelatinosa. Testa ac tegumen intera membr. chartacea. Albumen
copiosum hinc et suturae fructus oppositae, profundius exarat. sectione
transversa-reniformi. Carnoso albumeni germen secus sulcum affixium.
Embryo in axi albuminis, radicul super. Cotyledones foliaceae, albae,
amplae, curvat seminis sequentes: suturae placental, oppositae. Ejusdem
generis cum Menispermea: in sylvis Singfoensibus cum Wallichia: vide
Icones.

Arrived at Kioukgyee at 5 P.M. Waited on and dined with the Meewoon, who
is a gentlemanly, spare, lively man with grey hair. Dinner was good, and
clean. Preserved dried jujubes from China, as well as some preserved by
himself were very good. Kioukgyee is on the right bank of the river,
which is here undivided by islands, and about 1200 yards broad. Just
above the town there are some rocks. The number of houses is about
eighty-five, most of them arranged in a broad street running along the
river, and the best that I have seen for some time.

The village is surrounded by a new and wretched stockade, the outskirts
being fenced or _pangaed_; the people are on the qui vive, and the whole
village seems to be in a constant state of alarm. All the jungle
immediately adjoining the town is cut down; many of the houses are
unroofed, and all the gates are guarded. Visited this morning the lines
occupied by the attacking force; these were not 300 yards from the
village, and occupied the skirts of the jungle: trees had been felled and
earth thrown up, but not in such a manner as to obstruct in any way
tolerably brave men. We saw none of the slain, we may therefore doubt if
there were any, but it was evident from platters, etc. strewed about,
that the flight of the robbers had been very precipitate. We passed some
little distance above this, a holy island, the numberless small pagodas
on which, had a very pretty effect. Close to these there was a small
village, Sheweygyoo, which had been just burnt down by the Kioukgyee
people, for giving assistance to the robbers; this as well as two other
contiguous villages before occupied a good extent of the left bank, and
numbered probably 150 houses. Most of the inhabitants have retreated up
the river.

_May 8th_.--Reached Katha at 6 P.M. Throughout the day saw little of
interest. What we did see, gave evident tokens of disturbances,:
villages deserted; dogs starved, howling piteously; canoes without
owners. At one village a few miles below Kioukgit, our arrival caused
much excitement, and a gun was fired off as a signal of alarm on our
approach.

_May 9th_.--Katha is on the right bank of the Irrawaddi; it is situated
on an eminence, and commands a fine view of a fine reach of the river;
the situation indeed is excellent. It contains nearly 200 houses, but
these are not of the better description. To the west is a fine chain of
hills, the lowest ranges of which are distant about one mile and a half;
the highest peaks are perhaps 1500 feet. No signs of alarm or
disturbances are here visible, although part of the force that invested
Kioukgit came from this village. We here learn the agreeable news that
the country below is quiet, and that no robbers now infested the road.
The Thogee is a fine looking young man; very polite. This village boasts
of some pretty pagodas, well grouped, and a very fine _Kiown_, the
workmanship of which astonished me, particularly the carving; it is built
of teak, the posts being very stout, and very numerous. Several merchant
boats left before us, apparently anxious for our escort.

Behind the town is a large plain used for the cultivation of paddy.
Otherwise the jungle comes close to the houses, although the larger trees
have been felled for firewood, etc.: the woods are dry, and tolerably
open. In the morning I went out towards the hills; the chief timber
trees are a fine Dipterocarpus, and a Hopea; Pentapetes likewise occurs;
Terminalia Chebula. Gathered a fine Arum, somewhat like A. campanulatum.
An arboreous Gardenia, as at Mergui; Myrtacea, Vitex, Bauhinia of
yesterday; Randia, Andropogon aciculare; some stunted bamboos were
likewise observed. Altogether Katha is the prettiest place I have yet
seen. The river opposite it is confined to one bed, about 500 yards
broad.

_May 9th_.--Left at 7 A.M., and reached the mouth of the Shwe Lee at 1
P.M.; the distance according to B. being sixteen miles. Passed a few
villages, but none of any size; the houses of all continue of the same
description. The river presents the same features. Salix continues.
Sandbanks occupied by annual Compositae occur, two Polygona, Campanula, a
Ranunculus, much like that of Suddiya, a Labiata, Paronychia, two
Spermacoces; Bombax occurs just below Katha; Salix and Rosa continue.
Shwe Lee is a considerable river, at the mouth between 4 and 500 yards
broad; but one-third of this is unoccupied by water, and the stream is
not deep, although of the ordinary strength. Above, it narrows
considerably.

7.5 P.M. Temperature of the air 76 degrees. Of Irrawaddi 74 degrees.

_May 9th_.--Tsa-gaiya. This is a mean village on the left bank, about
eighteen miles from Katha; it is close to a low range of hills, and
occupies part of a plain, which is adapted for paddy cultivation. Near
the village to the North, is a small _jeel_, covered to a great extent
with a large Scirpus, Jussiaea, Azolla, Salvinia, etc. Water-fruits are
abundant; round this paddy is cultivated, and they appear to cut it at
this time. Low ground near the jeel is covered with a low, handsome
Stravadium or Barringtonia, as well as a Xanthophyllum, resembling
exceedingly in appearance a Leguminosa: the wood is hard. Calamus is
also common. A handsome Nauclea occurs, and on the grassy margins of the
plain a small Euphrasia is common.

During our stage I observed large quantities of Bombax, and a tree
apparently the Beloe of Assam; the banks were either grassy or wooded,
especially on the right bank, which is skirted entirely by hills of the
same barren looking description. The grasses are all small compared with
those of Assam.

_May 10th_.--Reached Tagoung late in the evening at 7.5: distance
thirty-two miles. The river continues the same; the hills on the left
bank are much broken into ravines: all continue clothed with the same
stunted vegetation.

_May 11th_.--Tagoung is a miserable village on the left bank; it
occupies a rocky eminence, and contains less than 100 houses. It is the
most inferior village I have yet seen, the streets being dreadfully dirty
and the houses very mean. We visited an old pagoda, about a mile from
the town, which is surrounded by an antique wall, much obscured by
jungle, and more resembling a bund. On our route hither we landed at
Thigan, a village containing about forty houses, and prettily situated at
the foot of a hill of micaceous sandstone, on the right bank. At this
place are the remains of a fort built by the Chinese, of slabs of the
rock forming the hill. Similar remains exist at Myadoung, on the
opposite bank, as I learn from Mr. Bayfield. I gathered a Sida,
Capparis, Prionitis, Gnaphalium, and a Xanthoxylia petiolis alatis
armata; an Adiantum grows between the slabs composing the wall. At
Tsenkan I observed an Agave, a different Cactus, a fleshy Euphorbia; and
an Ananassa is common all about.

About Tagoung the botany is varied, and interesting. I gathered about
fifteen plants that had not occurred before, two Poae, two Andropogons, a
Zanthoxylum, and an Olax. The most interesting is an Apocynea, floribus
infundibulifor. lamina reflexa, fauce squamis dentatis 10, serie duplici
dispositis, interioribus petalis oppositis et majoribus, antheris, in
conum stigma omnino coadunatis. Cotton cultivated here; plants taller
than usual. The villages around are all forsaken owing to one of them
having been attacked by Khukeens, and two men carried off. Hence the
population at Tagoung, although usually scanty, is now much increased
from adjoining places. A small river falls into the Irrawaddi
immediately above Tagoung.

_May 12th_.--Reached Male about 6 P.M. Passed _en route_ a few
villages, none of any size or importance. The river varies in width,
_i.e_. the channel, from 400 to 600 yards. The banks are either
alluvial or rocky; and there are hills on the right bank skirting the
river; those on the left, are more distant and higher. Borassus
commences to be common; it is a taller, and more slender tree than that
of Coromandel, and the trunk is not covered with the persistent bases of
the petioles.

The village of Tsebainago is opposite to Male, and appears nearly of the
same size. Both are situated close to the mouth of the third Kioukdweng.
Male contains 150 houses, all small; it is a place of no trade. To the
north is a hill forming the river bank, and covered with pagodas; it is
the prettiest place we observed after Katha. The soil has now put on the
dry sterile appearance of the Coromandel coast, all the trees of which,
except the figs, are common; and often render the banks very pretty.
Tectona of Hamilton is very common; it is a tree not exceeding in height
40 feet, much resembling in habit the more valuable species; the flowers
are blueish, particularly the villi; the leaves have the same excessive
rough feel. Two other Verbenaceae, a curious Capparidea, caule laxo,
foliis lineari-oblongis, basi hastato-cordatis, and a Ximenia are common.
On the banks Stravadium, and an arboreous Butea, a Combretum, are common.
Low stunted bamboos likewise prevail; and all the bushes are prickly.
Nyctanthes is cultivated. The rocks as well as those forming the
Kioukdweng, are of coarse sandstone, here and there affording nourishment
to abortive Compositae, stunted grasses, Mollugo, etc.

Left Male, and entered immediately the last Kioukdweng on descending, or
the first defile on ascending against the stream. This is a pretty
passage, and moreover has no dangerous places; the hills are low, lower
than those of the two former passes, consisting of sandstone partially
clothed with the same scanty vegetation, presenting the same barren
appearance. Olax, Fici, Leguminosa, stunted bamboos, Hippocrateacea,
Mimosa, and Stravadium, occur. Celsia on sandy spots, together with
Campanula, but this last is becoming rare. Adelia nereifolia continues.
An arundo occurs on the naked rocks; Cassia fistula, Tectona Hamiltoniana
are also present.

We are much impeded by south-west winds; and owing to this and the
slowness of the stream, we were compelled to remain some time at Thee-ha-
dau. We there had excellent opportunities of seeing the fish, which are
so very tame as to come up to the sides of the boat, and even to allow
themselves to be handled. The faqueers of the place call them together;
but I think they are not much disposed to come from mere calling, for
they seem to require more substantial proofs of being wanted, in the
shape of food: they are found in still water in a small bay, which is
closed up still more from the influence of the stream by a round island,
constructed superficially on a rocky base, and on which pagodas are
built. They resemble a good deal the Gooroa Mas of Assam, but have no
large teeth as this has. They are very greedy, of a blueish grey colour,
occasionally inclining to red; the feelers are in some forked: they have
no scales.

We continued our course when the wind lulled; halted to dine on a
sandbank, and proceeded on afterwards, until we reached Kabuct about 8.5
P.M. On the sandbank where we dined I gathered a Crotalaria, Campanula,
Cleome, a Graminea, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, and a Dentelloidea. The
villages seen were all small.

_May 13th_.--Left Kabuct before 6. Halted to breakfast on a steep
bank, finding it impossible to proceed against the south-west winds,
which have now become prevalent.

At this place, which is hilly, I gathered Gmelina villosa, an Anonacea,
calyce 6 sepalis, cor. tripetala, pet. patentissimis, margine revolutis,
luteis. A Carissa, Grewia, Malpighiacea samaris, 3-alatis, alis
dorsalibus abbreviatis, a curious Graminea, a green Orchidea, terrestris,
bulbosa, flore ante folia evoluta, a Diospyros, Polygala, Plectranthus,
Rungia, Pladera, etc.

Halted at Movo, owing to the wind. This is a very pretty village; of no
great size, and of no importance. A delightful tope formed by Mango,
Fig, and Garcinia, or Xanthochymus, the dense shade of which is most
agreeable; Averrhoa, AEgle Marmelos is cultivated here; Borassus is
common, trunks of which are often of very irregular diameter. Low grassy
places occur running along the back of the village, with abundance of a
Combretum fruticosum; and a nullah at either end of the village presents
many trees on its banks, particularly a very large and handsome Myrtacea,
Hemarthria compressa. Stravadium racemis longe pendulis.

We were compelled to put into Mala on the right bank, about a mile above
Tsengoo, by a severe storm from the north-west. This village consists of
about forty houses, many pagodas, and has a good many potteries, and some
fine trees. It is at the entrance of the Kioukdweng. Observed Jatropha
Curcas, and Vitex negrendo. In the evening we proceeded to Tsenbou.

_May 14th_.--Left Tsenbou, and breakfasted at Nbat Kiown-wa. Just
above this are several villages, two of which number nearly seventy
houses each. This is the most populous part I have seen. To the east of
this are the Ruby mines in the Shan hills; and to the south-east low
hills from which the marble is procured, from which they make the idols.
The river features continue the same; namely, low hills close to the
right bank, and more distant as well as higher ones on the left. On the
Shan hills to the east, teak forests occur; on those to the west, tea
also grows. In Polong tea districts also occur; but the tea is very
coarse, and said not to be drinkable. Hemarthria, and Hoya viridiflora
were found.

Here I found Solanum, Tribulus, a Mimosa, lime trees, Carissa, Mimusops,
Stemodia ruderalis now appear. The most interesting is a small diffuse
Caryoplylleous-looking plant, with white Campanulate flowers; it is
probably a Frankeniacea. On the pagodas an Aristella grows. Certain
features prevail in the vegetation similar to those of the Coromandel
coast. Fig trees often surrounded at base with brick-work; this never
lasts long, the roots tearing up the masonry in every direction.

The exit from this 3rd Kioukdweng is very pretty. Tsengru with its
numerous white pagodas; the noble river expanded into a broad bay; the
Eastern hills are very beautiful, and the Marble hills which form a
background to Tsenbou are no less so. The banks towards the exit from
the defile are sloping, often covered with grass. The Palmyra trees and
Fig trees have a very pleasing effect. At Kiougyoung there is a large
brick fort, built by Alompras. The village contains about 150 houses: no
large village is passed between this and Kubuct.

Halted above Sheemnaga to look at Gaudama's foot, a piece of workmanship
contained in a pagoda; it is a very large foot, with a central circular
impression. This is about a mile below Endawka. Sheemnaga never
contained more than 400 houses, I counted upwards of 180, and although
extensive traces of fire, and of new houses existed, I should reckon it
to have contained only about 300. At the Pagoda I gathered a curious
Rutaceous-looking decandrous thorny tree, with foliis bijugis.

Reached Mengoon about 7 P.M. Landed at the commencement of the sandstone
hills, which in some places assume the form of cliffs: texture very
loose. They are full of holes, and abound with blue rock Pigeons.
Gathered a Murraya. Trichodesma indicus and Compositae, Asclepiadea,
Calotropis gigantea, and a curious Arenariod-looking plant.

_May 15th_.--Mengoon boasts of a huge unfinished Pagoda, consisting as
it now stands of an immense square brick mass, surrounded by four fine
broad raised terraces; it would have been, had it been finished, upwards
of 700 feet high. The dome was to have been with angular sides. Height
170 feet; the basement, as may be supposed, is immense. The plan or
model of it was first built in a small adjoining grove to the south, by
the grandfather of the present king. The whole kingdom must have been
occupied in its erection. The entrance to it is guarded by two huge
Griffins. Several large bells lie close to it. The country around is
hilly; the hills low, raviny, and clothed with stunted vegetation.
Beautiful topes exist along the river bank, between this and the cliffs
before alluded to; consisting chiefly of fine mango trees, noble Fici
likewise occur. About Mengoon, Jatropha Curcas is common. Gymnemea,
Calatropis gigantea, and Argemone abound. We found a Pergularia, Lippia,
Zyzyphus, and one or two small Euphorbiaceae. The soil is dry, sandy,
and barren.

We reached Ava about 1 o'clock.

_May 21st_.--Went to Tsegai on an excursion: the hills in this vicinity
are low, none exceeding 300 or 400 feet, dry and barren, chiefly composed
of grey carbonate of lime, and in some places Kancha occurs. Pagodas are
very numerous, but none are very large, or bearing the stamp of great
age. A fine view of country is however afforded: large plains are seen
to the east of the city, and between the hills and the river two large
jheels are visible from the hills.

The vegetation almost entirely consists of low stunted, very ramous
shrubs, and these are generally thorny. Not a tree visible except Bombax
and Tamarindus, but this last is planted. A large subarboreous Cactus,
spinosus, ramis 4 angulis, is common. Noticed four species of Capparis,
and the following plants, Barleria, Prionitis, Tamarindus, AEgle,
Zizyphus, Cocos; Borassus, Bixa, Cordia, Punica, Ricinus, Melia Azederak;
Citrus Cassia, near houses and on the hills; Euphorbia 2, Ximenia,
Cleome, Boerhaavia, Adhatode, Cassia sennoidea, Sidae, Andropogon, a lax
Linaria common on old pagodas; Calanchoe, Sedum, Pommereulla, Vinca
rosea, Tectona Hamiltoniana, but not of such size as at Male. Bambusa
stunted and rare, Blepharacanthus, Polygala, Labiatae 2, AEruae, sp. Fici
one or two, an Alstonia, Celosia mollugo, Solani sp. Stemodia, Combretum,
Heliotropium indicum, and the Euphorbiacea of Mengwong. It will at once
be seen that the vegetation has some similarity with that of the
Carnatic, for in addition I found Asplenium radiatum, and Limonea
Monophylla, a Carissa, Ximenia, Flacourtia, etc. etc.

Ava is a fine town, surrounded with an excellent brick wall: the streets
are wide, and kept clean; the houses are regular, and as trees are
interspersed, a pleasing effect is produced. The appearance is much
improved by a lattice before each house. The houses also are of a
superior description, a few only are of brick. The fort is surrounded by
an additional wall, and a broad but shallow ditch. The palace is a
handsome, irregular, gilt edifice; but its precincts are not kept so
clean as they might be. The Shwottoo is a handsome hall. The town
altogether conveys an idea of importance. The river is about 800 yards
broad opposite the Residency; but above, it is encroached on by a
sandbank. Boats are numerous, and opposite Tsegain there is a busy
ferry, especially now the king is at Tsegain. This is a much preferable
place, and rendered much more pleasing by its superb Tamarind trees, with
their most elegant foliage and sculptured trunks. The plants cultivated
about Ava are Palmyra, Cocoa (rare). Tamarinds abound; Carica Papaya,
Punica Granatum; Mangoes, which are of good description; Cordia,
Plantains, AEgle Marmelos.

The country is flat, and destitute of trees to the south and southwest.
The whole of this is cultivated during the rains, chiefly for Gram,
Tobacco, Capsicum, and a Melilotus. At present the plains are barren,
the low places being almost exclusively occupied by a Combretum; the rest
give a new Polygonum, Lippia, 2 or 3 Compositae, and a curious dwarf
grass. On the walls Linaria is common. Noticed near one of the gates,
Cryptostegia grandiflora; the waste places and banks are occupied by
Argemone, Mollugineae three, Xanthium, Dentella, and low annual
Compositae.

_May 26th_.--Visited Tsegain in the evening, and returned to Ava on the
following morning.

_May 27th_.--Noticed Phoenix sylvestris. The Euphorbia is common; it
is not a Cactus, but a species of this genus, ramis complanatis, is found
though not common; as well as an Agave or Aloe, but this is a doubtful
native. Poinciana pulcherrima, both red and yellow, Rhus? sp. arbuscula,
Vallaris solanacea. A small Lycopodium, Gmelina asiatica? The
additional Madras plants are, Cissus quadrangularis. There is likewise
another fleshy species fol. 3 phyllis, Sarcostemma viminale, Indigofera,
Kalanchoe laciniata is common; so is the white Cyperacea on barren spots!
I met with Sarcostemma ciliatum; Wall.? petalis extus viridescent, intus
ciliisque purpuro sanguinies, but it is rare. Cardiospermum pubescens is
certainly distinct, the flowers are twice as large as those of C.
Halicacabum, fructibus inflatis vix alatis, ovalibus, dehiscentia
septicida, septis axi adnatis, persistentibus. Semin. solitarii centro
loculi affixis, pisiparvi magnitudine, atris.

NOTE.--Where any discrepancy occurs with regard to the native names in
the preceding Journal, it is requested that such may be corrected from
the Report to Govt. Chapter VII. p.115.

[The view from Beesa: p109.jpg]

CHAPTER VI.

_Botanical notes connected with the foregoing Journal_.

(_February 19th_.--The finest view of the hills from Upper Assam is
obtained on a reach or turn of the river just above Palankar, the river
bending to the NNE. Snow is plentifully seen on one back range from the
Sugar-loaf peak. Another reach shortly after presents a fine view of the
Burrampooter chasm, terminated by the rugged peak so distinctly seen from
Suddiyah, due east. This view might be chosen, as a general
characteristic of the Scenery of Upper Assam.

It embraces the Mishmee mountains to the left, the higher peaks of which
are covered with perpetual snow. These lie to the NNE. of Beesa. To the
east, is the continuation of the Himalaya, to the South-east and South,
the Patkaye, and Naga ranges; the whole forming a panorama, rarely if any
where surpassed in beauty. Temperature. of the river at 6 A.M. 67
degrees

_Musa_. Many flowers from the axil of a bract; no bractioles
interspersed, hence we may expect racemose or spicate partial
inflorescences. The perianth is unilateral, 5 cleft, the two smaller
segments, which are intermediate, being internal, or belonging to a
different series. Within this petaloid perianth is a membranous one,
together with a boat-shaped bracteolate body, entire. The stamens are
five, evidently opposite to the segments of the petaloid perianth,
staminibus adnatis, the sixth is not developed, but is rudimentary, and
exceedly minute, opposite to the bracteoid body. The carpella three,
alternate as they ought to be with the last series of stamina, and hence
they are opposed to the larger and outer segments of the petaloid
perianth, but this last point deserves further examination.

The base of the bracteoid sepal is filled with a gelatinous, sweet,
transparent, unicoloured .5 fluid.

I am unaware whether this explanation has occurred to any body else.

It is curious as compared with Scitamineae, in which the posticous stamen
is alone fully developed. Pl. 1. Fig. 3. _a_. bracteoid body, _b_.
sterile stamen, c.c.c. outer series, d.d. inner ditto.

The fact of the outer smaller laciniae belonging to a second series is
not very apparent, but is corroborated by the evidently internal
situation of the bracteoid scale, and by the evidently elevated lines
visible in the inner.

(_April 3rd_, _1837_.--On march towards the Serpentine mines) the face
of the perianth, corresponds to these smaller laciniae.

_April 7th_.--Thunbergia grandiflora has the pedicels of its flowers
twisted, or not twisted, according to the situation of the flowers. Thus
if the flower be so situated that the raceme has the direction of the
axis, or in other words is erect, the pedicel is straight, but if the
raceme, as generally happens, be pendulous, the twisting of the pedicel
is resorted to, to secure the flower that situation which it would have,
were the raceme erect.

The above is obvious in flowers which from elongation of the axis of
inflorescence, have fasciculate or aggregate flowers. An obvious
inference is, that the twisting of the pedicel is not of generic, nor of
specific importance; and that it is capable of being produced
artificially.

This resupination is not uncommon in the order; it is most evident in
Thunbergia coccinea, in which the racemes are always pendulous. There is
nothing, at least in this species, in the situation of the genitalia to
account for the resupination.

Pedicelli demum apicem infra articulati, the inflorescence of this order
is always centrifugal, the partial axis being invariably as well indeed
as the general, disposed to dichotomy. Hence the very common presence of
three bracteae to each flower, the central one presenting the leaf from
whose axil the partial branch springs.

Stipulae--if the analogy of these be difficult to ascertain, the
structure and functions would appear to be as of leaves, in addition to
the function of protection. In most cases they are certainly not double
organs; in Naucleaceae they are apparently so. Can this be explained by
supposing them to form a bud with four scales, the scales instead of
being imbricate, being on one plane. Stipellae of Leguminosae are
certainly single; these being all probably stipulate plants, are to be
considered as having terminal buds, the buds being either totally, or
partially protected by the stipulae. The difficult nature of ochreae of
Polygoneae is certainly to be acknowledged, but they are similar to those
of Costus, and hence not stipulae, but an extension of the margin of the
vaginate petiole, from which veins are prolonged into it; the functions
of these are not stomatose, since they are membranous, the veins being
the only green parts.

I see no reason why the stipulae of Rosae are not to be considered as
belonging to, or dilatations of the petiole. They have no distinct
vascular fascicles to indicate a distinct origin. And further, in Lowea
no stipulae exist.

_Jonesia_: pedicellis apice articulatis, basi bracteolatis, ideoque
infloresc. magis composita esse debet; laciniis anticis? corollae?
perianth compositum, binatum praebentibus, emarginatio et situs stam 5ti
rudiment. Staminis laciniis alternatis? basi in annulum, seriem 2
indicantem coalit. {111} The situation of the stamens is somewhat
obscure, the two lowermost however alternate with the segments, the two
intermediate being sometimes sub-opposite.

Of course if they be opposed, the perianth will be referrible to a calyx
if not to a corolla.

_Lepidostachys_ or Scepa. Fruit dicarpillary, stigmata four, hence they
are placentary not costoid. bilocular, loculis dispermis, ovula 2 pend; 1
abortiv. semiunceum, testa vix arillus obsacuit clause lutescens carnosa
et ab nuclei inter adhaeren. Rad. sup. embryo junior viridis.

Stipulae cad. Gemmam oblegent.

_Homalineae_, Calycis; laciniae 4, petal 4, Glandulae 4 totidem sepalis
oppositae. Connat; stamin 4, petal opposita; styli 4. Ovar non ext.

Arbor magna. foliis alternis stipulatis, paniculae racemoso-axillares,
Flores minut. viridescent. Pet. et sep. fimbriat. aestiv. imbricat.

_Clematis_ has semina pendula.

The stipulae of Ficus obviously belong not to the leaves, their insertion
taking place .5 a line above that of the petiole. Hence they belong as
obviously to the elongation of the axis above the leaf; their coloration
is curious, especially as they are green when young. Their vernation is
conduplicate and plicate.

_Combretum_ presents several points in common with Rhamneae; valvate
calyx, and tendency to want of petals; to Elaeagneae in calyx and
furfuraceous scales; a decandrous Rhamneae would differ but little in
flowers from Combretum.

_My idea_ of the origin of stigmata is proved to be correct by a
Phyllanthus, the carpella of which are ovuliferous below, the upper part
being fleshy, the stigmata are two to each, obviously corresponding to
the placentary inflexions, while the sinus terminating the dorsal suture
is totally naked; it is this which should bear the stigma if Lindley's
view were correct.

The true place of Moringa seems to be near Xanthophyllum with which genus
it has some remarkable points of resemblance, witness the papilionaceous
corolla; unilocular stamina, their situation, ovary, placentation, and
lastly glandulation.

To this Lindley has made an approximation by placing the order near
Violarieae. Its chief difference from Polygaleae, is habit, foliation,
and the perigynous insertion of corolla and stamina, and consequent union
of the sepals. As in Xanthophyllum there is no albumen.

(An additional Xanthop. which until to-day I have always taken for a
Leguminosa.)

_Tamarindus_ cal 4 partitus, sepals 2, superiorib. connatis. Pet. 3,
vexillo, sepalo postico composit; opposit; stamen tria; sepalis 3,
inferior opposita. Stylus aestivation deflexus.

Pedicelli apice articulat. Folii petiol. basi articulat. Stipulae
minimae stipellae.

In Jonesia, there are no petals. Humboldtia comes near Tamarindus,
through H. Brunonis, which agrees in calyx and petals.

Thorns of Prionites, what are they? They are axillary, and yet buds are
produced between them and the axis. They have no connection with the
leaves. Were it not for the buds above alluded to, I should say that
they were abortive branches (bearing one pair of leaves) reduced to
spines.

_Olacineae_. Certainly in habit, corolla, etc. Olacineae are allied to
Aurantiaceae, but they are nearer akin to Santalaceae. The processes are
indubitably modified stamina, with a great tendency to irregularity; in
one species from Tagoung only three fertile, and five sterile stamina
were observed: the three fertile generally, but not invariably, alternate
with the petals.

To Santalaceae they approach in processes, valvate corolla, and
placentation, also to Loranthaceae.

Eight stamina thus accounted for; when two opposed to petals, belong to
outer series--also single one.

In Punica, the structure of the ovaria is highly curious. We find the
bottom of the tube is occupied by two cells, partially filled with ovula,
which are attached both to the axis and to the base, as well as to the
lower part of the outer paries of each cell; so far, it does not depart
from the order, for in Aplexus the placentation is tolerably similar.

Above these two, are 4-5 cells, filled with ovula, which are attached
entirely to the outer wall of each cell, but the placentae however would
seem to have an obvious connexion with the axis, although this is very
doubtful.

The formation of the stigma decidedly indicates a binary formation of
carpella.

If these 4 upper cells are 4 constantly, and the base of the ovary is as
constantly two celled, then the explanation is sufficiently obvious,
though different from that given by Lindley. {113}

First, we have in the bottom from which the mere structure of an ovary is
deduced, the normal dicarpellary structure, and there is in addition a
tendency in excess toward a parietal placentation.

The anomalous formation arises first from parietal placentae being
produced to the axis, and from spurious growth from the sides of the
ovary also meeting in the axis, by which the ovula are divided into four
bundles.

Lindley's view seems to be questionable, because as in all cases the
styles and stigmata are more permanent than ovaries, there should be as
many styles, etc. as ovaries. 2nd, because according to this view the
placental suture of the carpella would be turned from the axis, (look at
Pomaceae,) although his view of Pomaceae being right would indicate an
additional affinity with Mespilus, etc. which it does in habit and
abbreviated lateral branches.

Are all Myrtaceae dicarpellar?

The true nature of the case is pointed out in the instance cited by
Lindley of a permanent variety of apple, which has 14 cells and 14
styles! With regard to Nicotiana and Nolana; have these one or two rows
of carpella?

TECTONA.

Arbores, trunco crasso, cito ramoso, cortice albido, laevi, tenui.

Folia siliceo-aspera, inflorescent dichotoma.

Calyx aestiv. valvat. cor infundibul, subregularis laciniis, 5
rotundatis, demum reflexis aestivat. laciniis super 2, omnino exterior,
facies barbato-villosa.

Antherae longit dehiscent, stylus stigma simplex.

Pubescentia stellata.

Modo Asclepiadeae, corolla rotata.

GMELINA VILLOSA.

Lab. super. aestivat. omnino exterior fl. axi fere paralleli, pedicell
apice bibracteolat.

Cal. minim. 5 dentat.

Cor. infundibul campanul. bilab; 4 partit. stigma bilabiat-lab infer
longiore.

AROIDEUM.

Radix maxime napiformis, undique radiculas exserens, et superne e centro
spadicem. Spadix pedunculum 3-uncial terminans, basi squamis magnis
membranaceis, lineari-oblongis stipatus sursum in corpus fungoiden,
capitatum, maximum, purpureo-sanguineum, superficie rugose dilatata.

Ovar bilocul, diovulat.

Medio antheras bipoross confertissimas, sessiles, numerosas, basi ovaria
distantiora gerens.

Ovaria fusco-purp, stylus elongatus clavatus, stigma clavato, capitat.

Odor-floris praeserti marcescentis pessimus.

Katha in sylvis aridis.

The fruit of Lagerstramia grandiflora can, I think, be explained by
assuming it to consist of several carpella, which by not becoming united
near the axis, leave an irregular shaped space in the centre; the
placentae are fleshy, the ovule inserted all around. This view does not
take into consideration the situation of the stigmata. The deeper sulci
visible externally correspond to the inflexions of the carpellary leaves;
in addition to this, the centre of the dorsum of each of these is marked
with a line. {114})

CHAPTER VII.

_Report to the Government of India_, _12th July_, _1837_.

In the following report, I have divided the marches into series,
corresponding with the countries through which they were made, reserving
a table of the whole for a subsequent part. These series will be as
follows--

1. From Sadiya to Beesa Lacoom.

2. From Beesa Lacoom to Namtusseek.

3. From Namtuseek to Wullabhoom.

4. From Wullabhoom to Mogoung.

5. From Mogoung to Ava.

I. FROM SADIYA TO BEESA LACOOM.

COUNTRY TRAVERSED BELONGING TO THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT, AND FORMING PART
OF THE SOUTH-EAST EXTREMITY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM.

1. From Sadiya to the Noa Dihing river mouth or Mookh. Direction east.
Distance 6 miles performed in boat, the course lying up the Burrumpootur.

2. From Noa Dihing Mookh to Rangagurrah on the Noa Dihing. Direction
SSE. Distance 12 miles, course lying along the dry bed of the Noa
Dihing.

3. From Rangagurrah to Moodoa Mookh, on the same river. Direction south-
east, the distance being 12 miles. {115a}

4. From Moodoa Mookh to Kidding. Direction south, the distance 9 miles,
course south-east, along the bed of the Noa Dihing as far as Wakhet,
thence diverging to SSW. through heavy jungle.

5. From Kidding to Namroop Puthar. Direction, nearly south, the
distance being 12 miles, course lying through very heavy jungle, crosses
the Karam Panee, {115b} which here is not fordable, and another
considerable feeder of the Booree Dihing, and lastly up the Namroop.

6. From Namroop Puthar to Beesa Lacoom. Direction southwest, the
distance 12 miles, the course extending at first over low hills and
difficult ground, thence through heavy jungle intersected by narrow
plains, lastly chiefly along the banks of the Darap Panee.

_Nature of the country_.--It will be seen that with the exception
of the three first marches, and part of the fourth, the country is
occupied by the heavy jungle so prevalent in these parts. The chief
difficulties our party experienced arose from the limited manner in which
the jungle had been cut for their passage.

_Rivers_.--The only one not fordable in the above route, is the Karam
Panee, but this does not hold good either above or below the place I
crossed. They all discharge much water during the rains, and even in the
dry season are navigable for small canoes.

_Villages_.--These are as follows:--

1. _Digalo Gohain Goung_.--On the right bank of the Noa Dihing it is
inhabited by Kamptees lately settled in our territory, and is a
respectable village. The Noa Dihing here ceases to be navigable even for
small canoes.

2. _Wakhet_.--This is a new but wretched village, inhabited by Singphos.
Wakhet Gam was an adherent of the Duphas, and is by all account one of
the worst-disposed Singpho chiefs. He is said even at this period still
to traffic occasionally in slaves.

3. _Kidding_.--A temporary village, containing about 10 houses,
inhabited by Nagas, now naturalised to the plains.

4. _Namroop Puthar_.--So called from a plain on the left bank of the
Namroop. The village, which is a mean and despicable one, is on the
opposite bank.

5. _Beesa Lacoom_.--Is situated on the right bank of the Darap Panee,
which is fordable at the heads of the rapids. It contains 12 small
houses. The Gam is, I believe, an uncle of the Beesa Gam, and exercises
exclusive control over the tribe of Beesa Nagas. This influence he
appeared to exercise to our disadvantage. He is a discontented man, and
his behaviour to our party was very unsatisfactory.

_Population_. {116} --This is scanty enough, particularly when we
consider that the houses in the above villages are much smaller than in
the better sort of Singpho villages. With the exception of the Kamptee
village the average number of people to each house cannot exceed five.
Another small Singpho village exists on the Namroop, about 3 miles from
Namroop Puthar, and not far from the site of the coal mine.

_Capabilities of the Country_.--These are of the usual description.
The soil is productive enough, but the labour of clearing the drier spots
is excessive. Excellent rice grounds exist in abundance between Beesa
Lacoom and Namroop Puthar, but the cultivation of this, as well as of all
the other necessaries, is limited to the quantity absolutely required.
Scarcities of grain are of frequent, indeed almost of annual, occurrence;
and this is chiefly owing to the pernicious influence of opium or Kanee,
to which all our Singphos are immoderately attached. Of the _Mineral_
_Productions_, coal and petroleum were the only ones we met with.

_The coal occupies_ the greater portion of a precipitous part of the
sandstone composing the left bank of the river Namroop. Three large
veins have been completely exposed by the cutting away of the bank. The
coal is I believe of good quality. The river immediately under the veins
is very deep, and were it not for the rapids which intervene between the
site of the mineral and the Booree Dihing, it would be difficult to
conceive a spot affording similar facilities for the transmission of the
mineral. I must however, observe, that even in the dry season the river
is navigable for small canoes as far as the site alluded to. During the
rains no difficulty whatever would be experienced in the carriage, as
rafts might be made on the spot. No use is made of the coal by the
natives, nor did they seem to be aware of its nature.

Of _the Petroleum_ {117} no use whatever is made, although we have
ample experience from its universal use by the Burmese, that it is a
valuable product both as affording light, and preserving in a very great
degree all wooden structures from rot and insects. The springs occur in
four different places, all close to the Puthar: of these three occur on
the low hill which bounds the Puthar to the southern side, and one on the
Puthar itself, at the foot of the range alluded to. The springs are
either solitary, as in that of the Puthar, or grouped, a number together;
the discharge varies extremely from a thin greenish aqueous fluid to a
bluish grey opaque one, of rather a thick consistence: the quantity
poured out by these latter springs is very considerable. On the surface
of all, but especially on these last, an oleaginous, highly inflammable
fluid collects in the form of a thin film. The jungle surrounding the
springs ceases abruptly, the ground around, and among them, being covered
with stunted grass and a few small herbaceous plants. Elephants and
large deer are frequent visitors to the springs; of the former, the
tracts are frequent, and they are sometimes shot here by the natives.

_Vegetable Products_.--The jungles afford several kinds of bamboo, some
of which are of value; generally speaking the trees are not large, with
the exception of a gigantic Dipterocarpus, wood-oil or dammar tree; of
this particular tree I have seen specimens measuring 100 feet from the
base to the first branch. The wood is of no value, nor have I seen any
use made in Assam of the resinous secretion, which is in great vogue on
the Tenasserim Coast for the construction of torches, etc.

II. FROM BEESA LACOOM TO NAMTUSSEEK.

COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING PARTS OF THE NAGA RANGE OF HILLS, AND OF THE
SOUTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM: THE NORTHERN SIDE IS SUBJECT TO
BRITISH, THE SOUTHERN TO BURMESE CONTROL.

1st. STAGE.--_Halting place_ in the jungle, at an elevation of 770 feet
above the sea. Direction SSE. Distance 12 miles, course over low hills
covered with dense jungle.

2nd. _Darap Panee_.--Altitude 1029 feet. Direction SSE. Distance 12
miles, passed over some difficult places; crossed the Darap twice before
we reached the halting place, course through very heavy jungle, except on
the summits of the higher hills, which are tolerably open.

3rd. _Namtusseek_, {118} or Tusseek Panee, altitude 1413 feet. Direction
SSE. Distance 12 miles, country more open: summit of the hills covered
with grass and scattered trees. The highest hill surmounted was
certainly 1000 feet above our halting place.

4th. Namtusseek, or Tusseek Panee, altitude (not observed). Direction
SSE. Distance 10 miles, course almost entirely up the bed of the river
over boulders, occasionally skirting the stream through heavy and wet
jungle.

5th. _Yoomsan nullah_, near the foot of the Patkaye. Alt. 3026 feet;
direction SSE. Distance 4 miles. Course for a short time along the bed
of the Namtusseek, until we crossed a small stream, the Tukkakha: then
ascended a mountain, about 3500 feet high; on reaching the summit we
descended until we reached the halting place.

6th. _Nam-maroan_, or Maroan-kha. {119a} Alt. 2500 feet. Direction
ESE. Distance 15 miles. Ascended until we reached the summit of the
Patkaye; the ascent was in some places very steep, and owing to the
unsettled state of the weather, very difficult. Reached the boundary
nullah, along which we proceeded for some time; we then commenced the
descent, which was steep, and continued so, until we reached the
Nam-maroan. The extreme elevation we reached was rather more than 5000
feet. {119b}

7th. _Nam-maroan_.--Altitude estimated 2000 feet. Direction ESE.
Distance 10 miles, course along the bed of the stream; ground difficult,
and much impeded by boulders.

8th. _Nam-maroan_.--Altitude not taken. Direction ESE. Distance 7
miles. Course the same, but of a less difficult nature.

9th. _Khathung khioung_. {119c}--Altitude 1622 feet. Direction E. by
S. Distance 7 miles, course continues along the Nam-maroan, the whole
way: ground much less difficult. Passed close to a Singpho village of
two houses; some Puthars which bore traces of having once been cultivated
and inhabited occurred on this march.

10th. _Khussee-khioung_.--Altitude 3516. Direction E. by S. Distance
13 miles, left almost immediately the Khathung Kioung, and commenced
ascending. Ascent in some places very steep and difficult, and continued
until we had reached an elevation of 5600 feet. The descent then
commenced, and continued until we reached the Khussee-khioung, passing
along for some distance the Natkaw-khioung. The descent was occasionally
difficult, owing to broken ground; tree jungle occurred almost throughout
the whole distance.

11th. Kuttack Bhoom. {119d}--Altitude 3270. General direction S.
Distance 13 miles. Left the Khussee-khioung, but reached it again before
long. Continued to descend considerably, until we reached the Nam-thuga,
thence the descent increased considerably. Halted on an open grassy
spot, from which an extensive view of the valley of Hookhoom is obtained.

12th. _Namtusseek_.--Altitude 1099 feet. General direction ESE.
Distance 10 miles. Descended from Kuttack Bhoom, until we reached the
Loonkharankha, then ascended considerably. The descent then recommenced,
until we reached the Namtusseek. Heavy jungle occurred throughout. Path
occasionally difficult, becoming as we approached the base of the range
very wet. We crossed several small mountain streams.

_General features of the hills_.--The prevailing formation
appears to be sandstone, and connected with this we have rounded summits,
not attaining a great elevation, and a considerable depth of soil. The
lower ranges are throughout covered with heavy tree jungle. This becomes
excessively thick and wet along the water courses, which are of frequent
occurrence towards the base of the range, both on the northern and
southern sides. But from an elevation of 1000 feet to that of Yoomsan, a
great change for the better takes place on the northern face, the hills
being covered with clay, and generally not very high grass jungle, among
which trees are scattered. This character is particularly evident along
both sides of the valley drained by the Namtusseek of the northern side.
The Patkaye is wooded to its summit; the jungle on the south side being
much more humid than that on the northern. Indeed on this face of the
range, with the exception of the Puthars on the Nam-maroan, scarcely more
than two open spots exist, and both of these are of small extent. Of
these one exists at an elevation of 5500 feet, and one at Kuttack Bhoom.

The paths although very often steep, are easy enough for coolies, except
during wet weather, when they become very slippery. With some degree of
preparation the worst places might be made passable for lightly loaded
elephants, and this would be facilitated by the soft nature of most of
the rocks. The most difficult marches are those which lie along the beds
of the streams, and these, it has been seen, are far the most numerous;
they are particularly difficult for elephants, the boulders affording a
very precarious footing to these weighty animals. The difficulty is much
increased by rain, when even coolies find considerable difficulty in
making any progress. Several elephants accompanied Major White as far as
the Darap Panee, and a small suwaree elephant, loaded with a light tent,
succeeded in reaching Yoomsan. The southern side of the range is
decidedly of a more difficult nature than the northern, and it is in
addition of greater extent: the highest point traversed is 5600 feet
above the level of the sea. The range might be traversed by a lightly
loaded active native in six days.

_Streams_.--These all partake of the usual nature of mountain torrents;
they are all fordable during the cold weather, the principal ones being
crossed at the heads of the rapids. The boundary nullah is a mere
streamlet: it runs between two ridges of the Patkaye: its course being
about ESE. and WNW. Owing to the frequency of the streams and their
mountainous nature, I should imagine that this route is impracticable
during the rains.

_Villages_.--Not a single village or house exists directly on the route.
One small Naga village is visible from the Namtusseek below Yoomsan, and
a detached hut is visible here and there on a high mountain close to, and
NE. of Yoomsan. On the Burmese side there is, as I have mentioned
before, a village consisting of two houses close to the route. This
village has lately been established by some Singphos from Nimbrung,
several marches to the eastward.

_Population_.--I certainly did not see 100 Nagas throughout the time
passed in traversing these hills, although I am satisfied that every man
within a reasonable distance came into Camp in the hopes of sharing in
the extensive distribution of presents. From the appearance of the
country about Yoomsan, and the valley of the Namtusseek, I am inclined to
think that the population was at one time considerable. The openness of
the country, which is as I have previously said chiefly clothed with
grass, and the peculiar and generally imperfect aspect of the trees, can
only be accounted for, by supposing the country to have been extensively
cleared, particularly when it is remembered that the highest portions of
the range are thickly wooded. But allowing this supposition to be
correct, it is no proof, that the total population has been on the
decline, for we must take into account, the wandering nature of all hill
tribes. In forming an opinion of a hill population, which in all times
and places has, in this country at least, been found scanty, we must take
care not to confound the temporary huts, erected in khets, for the
purpose of protecting the cultivation, with actually inhabited houses; to
the former description I think the detached houses mentioned as being
visible from Yoomsan are to be referred.

The Nagas, at least the men, for I saw no women, are a small, active,
large-legged race, with Tartar faces. They are divided into very many
tribes, each of which has some peculiarity of costume. Those I saw were
decidedly inferior to any of the other hill tribes with which I am
acquainted. Their clothing is miserable, the chief protection consisting
of a number of rings, made of rattan, which encircle the abdomen. They
are as usual excessively dirty, and much attached to the use of tobacco
and ardent spirits. Their wants are few, but even these are miserably
supplied. They entertain an unbounded fear of the Singphos, who appear
to make any use of them they think proper. Their only weapons are
spears, Singpho dhas and battle axes.

The Singphos cannot be considered otherwise than as encroachers.
Invasions of these restless marauders appear not to have been uncommon up
to a late date. The remains of two stockades, in which they had
entrenched themselves were extant, one close to Yoomsan, the other on the
S. face of the Patkaye. I have before said that the puthars on the Nam-
maroan bore evidence of having been inhabited, and apparently to some
extent. But even during the stay of Major White on these hills, an
irruption of Singphos from Nimbrung had taken place, and had totally
unsettled the peace of the native inhabitants. Such things must be
expected to occur, particularly when it is well known that the Burmese,
the only power to which they are subjects, can exercise no authority over
the Singphos in any one direction, except when they have a large armed
force in the valley of Hookhoom.

_Of the Capabilities_ of the country it would be vain to attempt
giving an opinion. Scarcely any cultivation was passed on the route. The
soil is generally deep, more or less yellow, and somewhat clayey; the
hollows having a thin superstratum of black mould. Taking the deserted
state of the country into account, this part of the Naga range is of
little importance, except as forming portion of a most natural and well
defined boundary, compared with other portions of the same range to the
westward.

_Products_.--The principal mineral product is salt, an article which is
procured abundantly in some other more available points of the range. We
saw one small spring on the Namtusseek, from which supplies had been
lately taken.

_Vegetable Products_.--Fine timber trees occur here and there. Oaks,
Magnolias and Chesnuts occur not uncommonly, the Magnolias being of these
in this range the most characteristic of elevation. The horse chesnut of
Assam, (Osculus Asamicus mihi) occurs on both sides of the range, but
does not ascend further than 3,000 feet. No Fir trees exist on the
route, nor is it probable that they exist on the range in this direction.
One of the most interesting plants is a new species of tea, which I
believe to be a genuine Thea; it is called Bun Fullup, or jungle tea, by
the Assamese, in contra-distinction to the true tea plant, which is
called Fullup. This species makes its appearance at an elevation of
about 1,000 feet, and is met with as high up as 4,000 feet. It attains
the size of a tree of 30 feet in height; it is used only as a medicine.
No real tea exists on this route; several plants were pointed out to me
as tea, but all were spurious instances. The higher portions of the
ranges have a flora approaching in many instances to that of northern
latitudes. As examples of this, it will be sufficient to allude, in
addition to the trees mentioned above, to the existence of two species of
Daphne, one of Barberry, several species of a genus nearly allied to the
Whortle Berries, a Violet, and several species of Smilacineae, to which
order the Lily of the Valley belongs.

In concluding this part of my report, I may perhaps be permitted to
advert to the question of the possibility of transporting a body of armed
men into the Burmese dominions by this route. Although there is nothing
in the nature of this portion of the boundary which would render this
operation very difficult, yet considering the state of the adjoining
parts of Upper Assam, and that of Hookhoom, it becomes almost
impracticable. I allude to the extreme difficulty of procuring grain in
Upper Assam, in which, at least around Sadiya, annual scarcities are by
no means uncommon, and to the utter impossibility of drawing any supplies
from Hookhoom in its present miserable state. All the necessary supplies
would require to be drawn from Lower Assam, and for the transport of
these the scanty population of this extremity of the valley would by no
means be sufficient. Bearing on this point it must be remembered, that
from the 1st of April to the 1st November, these hills cannot be
traversed except by their native inhabitants, without incurring great
risk from the usual severe form of jungle fever.

III. FROM NAMTUSSEEK TO WULLABOOM.

COUNTRY TRAVERSED SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY, FORMING GREATER PORTION
OF THE VALLEY OF HOOKHOONG, OR THE PAEENDWENG.

March 1. _From Namtusseek to Nhempean_.--Direction E. Distance 18
miles, crossed the Namtusseek, then passed through heavy tree jungle, and
subsequently over extensive grassy plains.

2. _From Nhempean to Nidding_.--Direction SSE. Distance 4.5
miles, course along the Namtoroan, thence up the Saxsaikha.

3. _From Nidding to Kulleyang_.--Direction SSE. Distance 13
miles, country covered either with tree or high grass jungle. Passed a
deserted village, Thilling Khet.

4. _From Kulleyang to Isilone_.--Direction SW. Distance 10 miles,
country rather more open. Puthars are of common occurrence; passed a
small village, Damoon.

5. _From Tsilone to Meinkhoong_.--Distance 17 miles, course at
first along the Namtunai, {124a} country open, consisting of grassy
plains; several nullahs occur.

6. _From Meinkhoon to Wullabhoom_.--Direction SE. Distance 13
miles. Course over plains intersected by tree jungle, subsequently up
the bed of the Nempyo-kha.

_Nature of the Country_.--The valley of Hookhoong, or as the
Burmese call it, in allusion to its amber mines, Paeendweng, is of small
extent. Its greatest diameter is in the direction of E. to W., {124b}
its southern termination being within a few miles from Wullabhoom. It is
surrounded on all sides by hills, the highest of which are towards the
NE. and E.; none however would appear to exceed 6000 feet in height; and
from their appearance, I imagine they are wooded to their summits. The
lowest hills are those which form the southern boundary, and these
scarcely deserve the name. From Kuttack-bhoom a fine view of the valley
is obtained; it is here very narrow, and does not I should think exceed
25 miles in breadth. The features of the country are in a striking
degree similar to those of Upper Assam, that is, it presents a plain
surface intersected frequently by belts of jungle, the parts at the base
of the boundary hills being exclusively occupied by heavy jungle. The
general elevation of the plain above the sea may be estimated at about
1000 feet, so that it is several hundred feet above the level of Sadiya.
But although this is the case, the valley of Hookhoom undergoes the same
changes during the rainy season as Assam, the greater part being during
that period under water.

_Of the Climate_ it is perhaps presumptuous to give any opinion; it
is however by no means so cold as that of Upper Assam. In April the
daily range of the thermometer was very considerable, from 60 degrees to
88 degrees. The rains set in later than on the northern side of the
Patkaye, and they are said to be much less severe.

_The rivers_ are numerous, the principal one is the Namtunai, {125}
which subsequently assumes the name of Kyeendweng. This is in the places
I saw it a large, generally deep and sluggish stream, varying in breadth
from 270 to 350 yards. The next in size is the Namtoroan, which has more
of the character of a mountain stream; it is of considerable breadth
(opposite Nhempean it is 270 yards across,) and presents numerous rapids.
Both of these rivers are navigable for boats of some size. The other
rivers are small and insignificant; all fall into the Namtoroan or
Namtunai.

_Villages_.--Of these the following were passed on the route:--

1. _Nhempean_, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, is situated on an
extensive open grassy plain, it is stockaded: it contains about 12
houses, the river is here navigable for middling sized canoes.

2. _Tubone_, on the same bank, but lower down, and within quarter of a
mile of Nhempean, it is of about the same size, and similarly stockaded.

3. _Nidding_, on the left bank of the Saxsai-kha, about three-quarters
of a mile above its junction with the Namtoroan: it is a stockaded
village, and about the same size.

4. _Calleyang_, on the Prong-kha contains about 8 houses: it is not
stockaded.

5. _Lamoon_, on the Moneekha, is a very small village, containing four
or five houses: it is not stockaded.

6. _Tsilone_, on the left bank of the Namtunai. This is the Dupha Gam's
village: it is of the ordinary size, and is stockaded in the usual
manner.

7. _Meinkhoon_, on the Cadeekha, by which it is intersected; it consists
of two stockades, separated by the above stream; and contains about 25
houses, none of which are however large. It is here that the first
Pagodas (Poongye houses) occur. The village is situated on an open
grassy plain of considerable extent.

8. _Wullabhoom_, on the right bank of the Nemokapy, an insignificant
stream. This village is not stockaded; it contains about 10 houses, of
which several are of the Singpho structure.

The Gam of this village was in expectation of an attack from the Dupha
people, and had in consequence erected a small square stockade for his
own use; he had however built it so small that he might easily be
dislodged by means of a long spear.

In addition to these, there is a village called _Bone_, on the Namtoroan;
the path leading to this is crossed soon after leaving Namtusseek, and
another stockaded village, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, a little
below the mouth of the Saxsai-kha.

None of the above villages are situated on strong positions. The
stockades are as usual of bamboo, and are but weak defences; the space
between the stockade and the outer palisades is covered with short
pointed bamboos, placed obliquely in the ground: these are called Panjahs
by the Assamese; they inflict very troublesome wounds, and are
universally employed by the Singphos. The interiors of the stockades are
dirty, the houses are built without order, and generally fill the
stockade completely, so that the people inside might be burnt out with
the greatest ease. The average number of houses in each of the above
villages, may be estimated at about 12, of these the largest occur at
Wullaboom. They are built on muchowns, and resemble in all respects
those of our Assam Singphos. They are generally thatched with grass
(Imperata cylindrica. {126} ) The larger kinds have invariably one end
unenclosed; under this portico, which is usually of some size, all the
domestic operations are carried on. The Dupha Gam's is not distinguished
above the rest in any one way.

_Population_.--No country inhabited by sets of petty chieftains belonging
to different tribes, which are generally at enmity with each other, can
be populous; it is therefore with considerable surprise that I find it
stated that the number of houses in the north and eastern sides of the
valley is estimated at not less than 3000, which at the rate of 7 men to
one house, which is, considering the great size of very many Singpho
houses, rather underrated, would make the population of these portions of
the valley amount to 21,000 souls. The part of the valley which I have
traversed, and during which route 75 miles of ground were passed over,
does not present a single sign which, in the absence of direct evidence,
would lead one to suppose that it contained a considerable population.
During the before mentioned marches, I saw only four paths, crossing or
diverging from that which we followed. Of these, one _leads_, as I have
mentioned, to Bone, one to the hills on the NE., one to a Singpho
village, some miles to the south of our track, and the fourth diverged
from the path leading to the Amber mines through the village of a chief
called Tharapown Hhoung. The population on the above route of 75 miles,
would at the rate of 7 men to one house, and 12 houses to each village,
amount only to 840, but I think that 1,100 or 1,200 would be a fairer
estimate. From Kuttack-bhoom, as I have mentioned, a great portion of
the valley is distinctly seen, and nothing meets the eye but jungle,
broken here and there by the waters of the Namtunai: not a clearing is
even visible; instead of a population of 30,000, as has been stated I
should imagine that the whole valley of Hookhoom does not contain more
than 12,000.

The above population consists almost entirely of Singphos and their
Assamese slaves, and these last form a considerable portion. This was
particularly evident at Wulla-khoon, where they certainly out-numbered
their masters.

The Singphos of Hookhoong resemble exactly those located in Assam: they
are however less given to opium eating. They are of the same indolent
habits, and content themselves with cultivating sufficient grain to keep
themselves from starving. The women wear the Thumein, or Burmese dress,
a costume which is entirely unknown among the Singphos of Assam. The
most superior men I saw belonged to the Lupai tribe, from the east of the
Irrawaddi; they had come to Meinkhoon for the purpose of procuring amber.
In manners and dress they resembled the Shan-Chinese, they were provided
with firelocks, in the use of which they were certainly adroit. The
usual weapons of the Hookhoong Singphos are dhas and spears. I saw very
few muskets.

The behaviour of these people was throughout civil, and perhaps friendly.
Their hatred of the Burmese is excessive, the visits of the armed forces
of this nation being most harassing and oppressive. They are sub-divided
into tribes, among whom there is but little unanimity. The Dupha Gam is
much disliked, as he is considered the cause of the visit of the Burmese.
His power has been much exaggerated; he is not capable of bringing 500
men into the field. So unpopular was he, that it was reported to Mr.
Bayfield, that he was to be cut off immediately the Burmese force had
left the valley.

In giving the foregoing low estimate of the population of the valley, I
believe I have taken into consideration every circumstance of importance.
The occurrence of several old burial places on the route, some of which
are of considerable extent, might be considered by some as a proof, that
the population has undergone a decrease; but I conceive that it is
sufficiently accounted for by the wandering habits of the people.

_Capabilities_.--The greater part of the valley is well adapted for the
cultivation of rice, and as the soil is generally rich, approaching in
external characters to that of some parts of Upper Assam, particularly
Muttack, it is capable of supporting a large population.

_Products_.--Of the mineral productions, the most remarkable is Amber,
for which the valley of Hookhoong has been long famous, and from the
existence of which it derives its Burmese name. The mines are situated
in low, wooded hills, from which they are distant between five and six
miles; of this distance the first three miles traverse the plain on which
Meinkhoong is situated. The pits now worked give occupation to about a
dozen people; they occur on the brow of a hill: they are square, and of
various depth, the deepest being about 40 feet, the diameter not
exceeding three feet; the workmen ascending and descending by placing
their feet in holes made in two faces of the square. No props are used
to prevent the sides of the pits from falling in, the tenacity of the
soil rendering this precaution unnecessary. The instruments used, are
small wooden shovels, a wooden crow-bar tipped with iron for displacing
the soil or breaking the rocks, baskets for removing the substances so
displaced, buckets made of the bark of trees {128} for removing the water
which is met with in the deepest pits, and rude levers similar to those
used in Madras for the purposes of irrigation, for carrying the soil,
etc. from the pits to the surface; these however are only used in the
deeper pits, a hooked bamboo answering the purpose in the shallower ones.

The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of from 15
to 20 feet, is clayey and red: the remainder consists of a greyish-black
carbonaceous earth, increasing in density with the depth, and being very
hard at a depth of 40 feet. The amber occurs in both these, the clue to
its existence being the presence of small masses of lignite. The
searching occupies but very little time, as the presence of the lignite
is readily ascertained; all I saw dug out occurred as small irregular
deposits; it did not appear to be abundant. The people appear to have no
guide for the selections of favourable spots on which to commence their
operations; but having once met with a good pit, they dig other pits all
around, and often within a distance of two feet from the first one sunk.

I could not succeed in procuring a single fine specimen; indeed the
workmen denied having found any of value during the last six years! It
is an article in great request among the Chinese and Singphos; at the
pits, however, it is not high priced, and a first rate pair of ear-rings
are procurable at Meinkhoong for 5 tickals; in Assam 10 rupees are
occasionally given. Meinkhoong is annually visited by parties of Shan-
Chinese, for the purpose of procuring this mineral; the caravan at the
time I passed this village had returned, and I believe was met by Mr.
Bayfield. There was a small party of Lupai Singphos from the East of the
Irrawaddi, consisting of a Tsonba and six or seven followers still
waiting for a supply.

The spot occupied by pits is considerable, but three-fourths of these are
no longer worked. Compared with the Serpentine mines, they are but of
small value.

Both _Coal and Salt_ exist in the valley; the only indication of the
existence of the former I saw, was a mass of lignite in the bed of a
nullah between Tsilone and Meinkhoong.

_Vegetable products_.--Fine timber trees, {129} which belong to the
same genus as the Saul, occur between Nhempean and Namtusseek, and
elsewhere towards the foot of the hills surrounding the valley.

The Mulberry of Upper Assam occurs likewise, and the leaves supply with
food a species of silkworm. From the silk a coarse species of cloth is
manufactured, but the use of this appears to be very limited.

Tea appears to be of uncommon occurrence. The only specimens I saw were
given me by Mr. Bayfield, they were procured from low hills some distance
from Shellingket. On this subject Mr. Bayfield made very frequent and
minute enquiries, and the result appears to be that the plant is of rare
occurrence; none exists towards or about the amber mines.

The Room of Upper Assam (Ruellia Indigofera Mihi) is in use for dyeing
cloths, but not so much so as in Assam.

The cultivated plants are of the ordinary kind; and the produce is just
sufficient to meet the wants of the inhabitants. Owing to the presence
of the Myoowoon's force, rice was scarce during my visit; the price was
seven tickals a basket, each of which contains about 30 days' supply for
one man.

The domestic animals are of the ordinary description: fowls forming the
only poultry. But on this subject it is unnecessary to enlarge, as the
habits and manners of the people are precisely the same as those of the
Assamese Singphos.

IV. FROM WULLABHOOM TO MOGOUNG.

COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING CONSIDERABLE PORTION OF THE MOGOUNG VALLEY,
THROUGHOUT SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY.

March 1. _Halted_ on a small stream, a tributary of the Mogoung
river.--Direction nearly S. distance 22 miles, course at first along the
Namphyet, thence over low hills, forming part of the S. boundary of the
valley of Hookhoong.

2. _Halted_ on the Mogoung river.--Direction S. distance 22 miles, over
similar low hills until we reached the Mogoung river after a march of
four hours, soon descending into its bed, which we followed.

3. _Mogoung_ river.--Direction S. distance 13 miles, course along the
bed of the river.

4. _Mogoung_ river.---Direction SE. distance 14 miles, course continued
along the bed of the river.

5. _Kamein_.--Direction SSE. distance 14 miles: on starting left the
Mogoung river: course throughout over fine open high plains intersected
by belts of jungle.

6. _From Kamein to Mogoung_.--Direction SSE. Distance 25 miles,
course over high open plains and dry woods. Many nullahs occurred on the
route: crossed the Mogoung river opposite to Kamein.

_Nature of the Country_.--The low hills which are passed before
reaching the Mogoung river, are covered with tree jungle, but they afford
scarcely any thing of interest; they are here and there intersected by
small plains, covered with the usual grasses. {130} The country
traversed while following the Mogoung river, is most uninteresting, the
road following almost entirely the sandy bed of the river, the banks of
which are either covered with grass or tree jungle. On leaving this most
tortuous river, the face of the country improved and became very
picturesque, presenting almost exclusively fine high, and rather
extensive plains covered with grass, and partially with trees, while here
and there they are intersected by strips of dry tree jungle. Low hills
are visible frequently, especially to the eastward.

_Villages and Towns_.

1. _Kamein_, on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the junction of
the Endaw-khioung, consists of two stockades, one on a small hill the
other at the foot. Both together contain about 32 houses. The
inhabitants are Shans. It is a place of some consequence, as it is on
the route from Mogoung to the Serpentine mines. From Kamein, Shewe Down
Gyee, a conspicuous mountain, so called, bears east.

2. _Mogoung_, on the right bank of the river of the same name, just
below the junction to the Namyeen Khioung, contains rather fewer than 300
houses. Although it contains so few houses it is a place of considerable
extent. It is surrounded by the remains of a timber stockade, similar in
construction to those of Burmah proper. The houses are mostly small, and
I speak within bounds when I say, that there is not a single one that
bears the stamp of respectability. There is a bazaar, but nothing good
is procurable in it. Tea and sugar-candy are rare and high priced. Pork
is plentiful. Mogoung is situated in a plain of some extent, this plain
is surrounded in almost every direction by hills, all of which, with the
exception of Shewe Down Gyee, are low: the nearest of these are about
three miles off.

The inhabitants are mostly Shans, there are some Assamese, the chief of
whom is a relation of Chundra Kant, the ex-Rajah of Assam. The best
street in the town, though one of small extent, is that occupied by the
resident Chinese, none of whom however are natives of China proper. Of
this people I should say there are barely 60 in Mogoung, and, judging
from their houses, none of which are of brick, I should say they are very
inferior to their fellow-countrymen residing in Bamo.

During our stay in Mogoung, which was protracted owing to the disturbed
state of the country, the population was much increased by Shan-Chinese
returning from the Serpentine mines; and as there was a considerable
number of boats engaged by them for the transportation of the Serpentine,
the town looked busier than it otherwise would have done.

The Mogoung, river is here about 100 yards broad, but it is much
subdivided by sand banks: it is navigable for moderate sized boats a
considerable distance above the town. In the upper part of the course
this river abounds with fish to an unprecedented degree; of these the
most numerous is the Bokhar of Assam, and of this I have seen shoals of
immense extent.

The Namyeen is a small and shallow stream. Although from the extent of
the stockade Mogoung has evidently in former periods (during the Shan
dynasty) been of extent and consequence, it is at present a mean and
paltry town. It derives any little consequence it possesses from being
the rendezvous of the Shan-Chinese, who flock here annually for procuring
Serpentine.

The most valuable product of the Mogoung district is the Serpentine; the
mines producing which, we visited from Kamein. The marches are as
follows,

1. _From Kamein to Endawkhioung_.--Direction SSW. Distance 10
miles, course over low hills covered with jungle, with intervening grassy
valleys of small extent; crossed the Isee Een nullah.

2. _Halted on a plain_, on a patch of ground lately under
cultivation. Direction SSW. Distance 14 miles. Course over a similar
tract of country; continued for some time close to the Endawkhioung;
crossed several nullahs.

3. _Halted in the jungle_.--Direction WNW. Distance 17 miles.
Country the same: we changed our course on reaching the path which leads
to Kionkseik, a Singpho village, diverging to the N.; halted within a
short distance of Kuwa Bhoom.

4. _Reached the mines_.--Direction WNW. Distance 10 miles, course
over small plains and through jungle until we reached Kuwa Bhoom, which
we ascended in a WNW. direction, extreme altitude attained 2,799 feet.
The descent was steep, varied by one or two steep ascents of some hundred
feet in height. On nearing the base of the range we continued through
heavy and wet jungle, until we arrived at the mines.

These celebrated Serpentine {132} mines occupy a valley of somewhat semi-
circular form, and bounded on all sides by thickly wooded hills of no
great height. To the north the valley passes off into a ravine, down
which a small streamlet that drains the valley escapes, and along this,
at a distance of two or three miles, another spot of ground affording
Serpentine is said to occur. The valley is small: its greatest diameter,
which is from E. to W. being about three-quarters of a mile, and its
smallest breadth varying from 460 to 600 or 700 yards.

The whole of the valley, which appears formerly to have been occupied by
rounded hillocks, presents a confused appearance, being dug up in every
direction, and in the most indiscriminate way; no steps being taken to
remove the earth, etc. that have been thrown up in various places during
the excavations. Nothing in fact like a pit or a shaft exists, nor is
there any thing to repay one for the tediousness of the march from
Kamein.

The stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders mixed
with other boulders of various rocks and sizes imbedded in brick-coloured
yellow or nearly orange-coloured clay, which forms the soil of the
valley, and which is of considerable depth. The excavations vary much in
form, some resembling trenches; none exceed 20 feet in depth. The
workmen have no mark by which to distinguish at sight the Serpentine from
the other boulders; to effect this, fracture is resorted to, and this
they accomplish, I believe, by means of fire. I did not see the manner
in which they work, or the tools they employ, all the Shans having left
for Kamein, as the season had already been over for some days. No good
specimens were procurable. The workmen reside in the valley, drawing
their supplies from Kioukseik.

On our road to the mines we met daily, and especially on the last march,
parties of Shan-Chinese, Burmese, and a few Singphos on their return. Of
these in all Mr. Bayfield counted about 1,100, of whom about 700 were
Shan-Chinese: these were accompanied by ponies, which they ordinarily use
as beasts of burden. The larger blocks of stone were carried by four or
five men, on bamboo frames; the smaller, but which still are of
considerable size, on ingenious frames which rest on the nape of the
coolies' neck; the frame has two long arms which the bearer grasps in his
hand, and which enables him to relieve himself of his burden, and
re-assume it without much sacrifice of labour, as he props his load
against a tree, which is then raised by the legs of the frame some height
from the ground. The valley we visited affords I believe the greatest
quantity of the stone, which is said to be annually diminishing, neither
are pieces of the finest sort so often procurable as they were formerly
wont to be.

The path to the mines is on the whole good; it is choked up here and
there by jungle, and the occurrence of one or two marshy places
contribute to render it more difficult. It bears ample evidences of
being a great thoroughfare.

The greater part of the stone procured is removed in the large masses, to
Kioukseik, and thence by water by the aid of the Endawkhioung to Mogoung.
At this place duties are levied upon it. Hence almost the whole is taken
to Topo by water. From this place the Shan-Chinese carry it to their own
country on ponies.

From the stone various ornaments are made; from the inferior kind,
bangles, cups, etc. and from the superior, which is found in small
portions generally within the larger masses, rings, etc. The stone is, I
am informed by Mr. Bayfield, cut by means of twisted copper wire. The
price of the inferior kind is high.

It is from these mines that the province of Mogoung derives its
importance; so much so, that its revenue is said to exceed that of any
other Burman Province. The sum derived from the Serpentine alone is
stated to be occasionally as high as 40,000 Rs. per annum.

Owing to the avidity with which this product is sought after by the
Chinese, it is highly desirable to ascertain whether it exists in Assam,
which indeed is probably the case. I believe it is reported to exist
near Beesa; at any rate, blood-stone is found in this extremity of the
valley of Assam, and this, in Chinese eyes, is of considerable value. If
the Serpentine is found, specimens should be sent to Mogoung. As the
Shan-Chinese are reported to be a most penurious race, a small reduction
in the price below that of the Burmese, would suffice to divert the
current of the trade into Assam. Another interesting product, although
of no value, exists in the shape of an Alkaline spring on the Sapiya
Khioung, which hence derives its name. The water of this spring bubbles
up sparingly and quietly from under the rocky bed of the above mountain
torrent, it is quite clear, of a decided and pure alkaline taste: it is
used by the natives for the purpose of washing, and it answers this
remarkably well. Of this interesting spring Mr. Bayfield took specimens
for analysis.

Salt is procurable within a distance of three or four days from
Kioukseik.

_Vegetable products_.--Teak, and some of it is of a fine description,
occurs both on the route between the Mogoung river and Kamein, as well as
between Kamein and the Serpentine mines. The natives do not however
appear to cut it, probably owing to the want of water carriage. Fine
timber trees, nearly allied to the Saul, likewise occur on the road to
the mines.

I met with the tea but once. This occurred among the low hills dividing
the Mogoung district from the valley of Hookhoong, close to the Dupai-
beng-kheoung, or Tea tree Nullah. There was no difference in the
specimens brought to me from the plant of Assam, with the exception that
the leaves were even larger than in the plant alluded to; it did not
occur in abundance. It exists I believe, in another place on this route,
and among the same hills, but I did not succeed in procuring specimens.
Throughout both routes scarcely any cultivation was seen. Between the
Mogoung river and Mogoung town considerable portions of some low hills to
the East, presented the appearance of clearings. It must however be
observed, that the appearance of clearings is a most fallacious ground on
which to form an estimate of the population; 1st, owing to the habits of
a nomadic population; 2ndly, because a spot once cleared, keeps up the
appearance of a clearing for a long time; and 3rdly, because some
particular spots are, from some local cause or other, exclusively
inhabited by grasses, the prevalence of which will at a little distance
always give one the idea of cultivation.

_Population_.--This in the somewhat extensive tract of the Mogoung
district traversed, is very scanty. That of Mogoung and suburbs may be
estimated at about 1,600, and that of Kamein at 250. In addition to
these places, I have to mention a small Singpho village of three or four
houses, seen on a range of hills during our first march towards the
mines, and bearing about WNW., and Kioukseik. This latter place we
visited on our return from the mines, it is a stockaded village,
containing 16 houses, and about 120 souls. It is situated about 100
yards from a small stream, the Nam Teen: it is inhabited by Singphos: it
is about a mile from the divergence of the road to the mines, and bears
from this spot nearly due south. During the season of operations at the
mines it is a place of some consequence, as all the necessary supplies of
grain are procured from it. At the time of our visit, there was a good
sized bazaar along the Nam Teen, which was likewise a good deal crowded
by boats.

The neighbouring hills are inhabited here and there by Kukkeens, the most
troublesome perhaps of all mountainous tribes; but there are some other
villages about the lake, called the Endawgyee. We had an opportunity of
viewing from a distance the above lake on our return from the mines. From
an open spot on the eastern face of Kuwa Bhoom, it bore nearly due south,
and was estimated as being 15 miles distant. We could not distinguish
its outline, but we saw enough to satisfy us that it was a large body of
water. It is situated in an extensive plain near a range of hills, part
of which form portion of its banks. From the same spot we could see
Shewe Down Gyee, the large range from which the Namtunai takes its
course, bearing nearly due east, and at an estimated distance of 35
miles; the situation of the mines is therefore nearly due east from
Kamein.

V. FROM MOGOUNG TO AVA.

THE WHOLE OF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO ABOVE PLACES WAS PERFORMED BY
WATER.

The time occupied in descending the Mogoung river was three days. This
river is exceedingly tortuous, generally a good deal subdivided, and its
channels are in many places shallow. The chief obstacle it presents to
navigation consists in rapids, which commence below Tapan, and continue
for some distance; these rapids are not severe, but are rendered
difficult by the presence of rocks, many of large size. These rapids
commence immediately the river in its course approaches some low ranges
of hills. Boats of considerable size however manage to reach Mogoung;
they ascend the severer rapids in channels made along the sides of the
river, by removing and piling up on either side the boulders which form
great part of the bed of the river in these places. The descent is
managed in the same way, the speed of the boat being retarded by the crew
exerting their united force in an opposite direction. On leaving the
proximity of the hills, the river resumes its natural and rather slow
character, and towards its mouth there is scarcely any stream at all. The
channels are much impeded by stumps of trees. The country through which
the Mogoung river passes is very uninteresting, and almost exclusively
jungle, either tree or high grass.

Only one village, Tapan, is met with; this is small, and is situated on
the right bank; with the exception of its river face it is stockaded. At
this place the Shan-Chinese leave the river, striking off in an E.
direction towards the Irrawaddi, which they reach in one day. We
observed a small Kukkeen village on some hills near Tapan; with these
exceptions no sign of inhabitants occurred until we reached the
Irrawaddi. On the hills above alluded to, the bitter Tea is reported to
exist. The Mogoung river at its mouth is about 70 yards across. The
Irrawaddi even at the mouth of the Mogoung river, and at a distance of
nearly 800 miles from the sea, keeps up its magnificent character. At
this point it is 900 or 1,000 yards across; when we reached it, it had
risen considerably, and the appearance of this vast sheet of water was
really grand. Its characters are very different from the Ganges and
Burrumpooter, its waters being much more confined to one bed, and
comparatively speaking becoming seldom spread out. Generally speaking it
is deep and the stream is not violent. It appears to me to afford every
facility for navigation; in one or two places troublesome shallows are
met with, and in several places the channel near the banks is impeded by
rocks. It is only in the upper defile, or Kioukdweng, that the
navigation is during the rises of the river dangerous, and at times
impracticable. On our reaching Tsenbo, which is about 12 miles below the
junction of the Mogoung river with the Irrawaddi, the river continued to
rise in a most rapid degree, Mr. Bayfield ascertaining by measurement
that it rose 16 inches an hour. We were consequently compelled to push
on, as we were informed that the next day the defile would be impassable.
The Kioukdweng alluded to commences about two miles below Tsenbo, the
river becoming constricted from 1000 to 150 yards. The rush of water was
great, and was rendered fierce by rocks which exist in the midst of the
river. Still further within the defile the difficulties were increased;
at one place the whole of the enormous body of water rushes through a
passage, and it is the only one, certainly not exceeding 50 yards in
width. The passage of this was really fearful, for on clearing it we
were encountered by strong eddies, backwaters and whirlpools, which
rendered the boat nearly unmanageable. These scenes continued, varied
every now and then by an expanded and consequently more tranquil stream,
until a gorge is passed, well known by the name of the "Elephant and
Cow," two rocks which are fancifully supposed to resemble the above named
animals; the defile then becomes much wider, and the waters flow in a
tranquil and rather sluggish manner. The depth of the river in this
defile is, as may be supposed, immense; Mr. Bayfield ascertained during
his passage up, at a season when the waters were low, that in many places
no bottom was to be found at a depth of 45 fathoms. The necessity of
this enormous depth is at once evident, and is pointed out by the
configuration of the banks, which are in many places sheer precipices.
Two other defiles exist between Bamo and Ava, of these the middle or
second is the shortest, in both the stream flows sluggishly, and there is
no impediment whatever to navigation. In these the depth is great, but
owing to their greater width, much less so than in the upper.

The temperature of the waters of the Irrawaddi is as usually obtains,
except during the rises of the river caused by the melting of snow, when
it is higher than usual.

_Tributaries of the Irrawaddi between Mogoung river and_
_Ava_.

The number of tributaries even to Rangoon is unprecedentedly small: this
tends to increase the astonishment with which one regards this
magnificent river.

The rivers that fall into the Irrawaddi within the above distance are,

1st. The Mogoung river.

2nd. Tapien Khioung, above Bamo.

3rd. Shewe Lee Khioung.

These are about the same size, and only discharge a considerable quantity
of water during the rainy season. The Shewe Lee at its mouth, is between
5 and 600 yards wide, but only an inconsiderable portion of this is
occupied by water, and this to no depth.

The great branch from which the Irrawaddi derives its vast supply of
water still remains to be discovered, and will probably be found to be
the Shoomaee Kha. It is evident, at any rate, that the great body of
water comes from the eastward, for between the Mogoung river and
Borkhamtee, in which country Captain Wilcox visited the Irrawaddi, and
where it was found to be of no great size, no considerable branch finds
its way from the Westward: neither are the hills which intervene between
these points, of such height as to afford large supplies of water.

On the whole it is, I think, probable, that the Irrawaddi is an outlet
for some great river, which drains an extensive tract of country; for it
appears to me that if all its waters are poured in by mountain streams, a
tract of country extensive beyond all analogy, will be required for the
supply of such a vast body of water.

In addition to the above three rivers, few nullahs exist, but these are
scarcely worthy of consideration.

_Nature of the country_.--From the mouth of the Mogoung river
nearly to Tsenbo the country is flat, and the banks wooded or covered
with grass to the brink. The range of hills which form the upper
Kioukdweng there commence, and continue for a distance of 16 or 20 miles,
during the whole of which they form the banks of the river. These hills
are scantily covered with trees, most of which are in addition stunted.
The vegetation within the maximum high water mark consists of a few
scraggy shrubs. The rocks composing these hills are principally
serpentine, which within the influence of the water is of a dark sombre
brown colour. Limestone occurs occasionally.

From this Kioukdweng to the second, the entrance of which (coming from
above) is at Tsenkan, the features of the country are of the ordinary
alluvial description, and the river is a good deal spread out and
subdivided by islands, covered with moderate sized grasses. On leaving
the second Kioukdweng the same scenery occurs, the banks are generally
tolerably high, often gravelly or clayey. About Tsagaiya, a few miles
below the mouth of the Shewe Lee, low hills approach the river, and they
continue along one or both banks {139} at variable distance until one
reaches Ava. These hills are all covered with a partial and stunted
vegetation, chiefly of thorny shrubs, and present uniformly a rugged
raviny and barren appearance. The scenery of the river is in many places
highly picturesque, and in the upper Kioukdweng and portion of the
second, where there is a remarkable cliff of about 3,000 feet in height,
bold and even grand.

_Villages and Towns_.--These although numerous compared with the
almost deserted tracts hitherto passed, are by no means so much so as to
give an idea of even a moderate population. From the mouth of the
Mogoung river to the Kioukdweng there are several villages, but all are
small, mean, and insignificant. Strange to say, they are defenceless,
although the neighbouring Kukkeens are dangerous and cruel neighbours.
Nothing can be more calculated to shew the weakness of the Burmese
government than the fact, that the most mischievous and frequent
aggressions of these hill tribes always go unpunished, although a short
time after an attack the very band by whom it has been made will enter
even large towns to make purchases, perhaps with money the produce of
their robberies.

The upper Kioukdweng has a very scanty population, consisting of a
distinct race of people called Phoons: who are sub-divided into two
tribes, the greater and lesser Phoons. About 12 villages occur in this
defile, and Mr. Bayfield says that the population is almost entirely
confined to the banks of the river: all these villages are small.

Between the defile and Bamo a good number of villages occur, the largest
of which does not contain more than 100 houses, the generality are small
and mean. Bamo, which is a place of celebrity, and is perhaps the third
town in Burmah, is situated on the left bank of the river, which is here,
including the two islands which subdivide it into three channels, about a
mile and a quarter in width; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the
principal one. The town occupies rather a high bank of yellow clay,
along which it extends for rather more than a mile, its extreme breadth
being perhaps 350 yards. It is surrounded by a timber stockade, the
outer palisades being well pangoed; the defences had just undergone
repair owing to an expected attack from the Kukkeens. It contains within
the stockade rather less than 600 houses, (the precise number was
ascertained personally by Mr. Bayfield,) and including the suburbs, which
consist of two small villages at the northern end, one at the southern,
and one occupied by Assamese at the eastern, it contains about 750
houses. These are generally of the usual poor and mean description;
indeed, not even excepting the Governor's house, there is not a good
Burman or Shan house in the place. One street which occupies a portion
of the river bank, is inhabited by Chinese, and contains about 100
houses; these are built of unburnt brick, and have a peculiar blueish
appearance; none are of any size. The best building in Bamo is the
Chinese place of worship. Those occupied by the Burmese have the usual
form. The country adjoining Bamo is flat, dry, and I should think
unproductive; it is intersected by low swampy ravines, one or two of
which extend into the town. To the south there is an extensive marsh,
partially used for rice-cultivation.

The population of Bamo including the suburbs, may be estimated at about
4500, of whom 4 or 500 are Chinese. The governor is a bigoted Burman, of
disagreeable manners; he expends much money in the erection of Pagodas,
while he leaves the streets, roads and bridges by which the ravines are
passed, in a ruinous and disgraceful state.

The Bazaar of Bamo is generally well supplied: British piece goods and
woollen cloths are procurable, but at a high price: the show of Chinese
manufactures is much better, particularly on the arrival of a caravan;
considerable quantities of Tea are likewise brought in the shape of flat
cakes, of the size of a dessert plate, and about two inches thick. This
tea is of the black sort, and although very inferior to the Chinese case
teas, is a far better article than that of Pollong. In addition to this,
warm jackets lined with fur, straw hats, silk robes, skull-caps, and
sugar-candy are procurable; pork of course is plentiful, and is
excessively fat; grain, vegetables and fish are plentiful. On the whole
Bamo is a busy and rather flourishing place: it derives its consequence
entirely from its being a great emporium of trade with the Chinese, who
come here annually in large numbers; for the accommodation of these
people and their caravans, two or three squares, fenced in with bamboos,
are allotted.

The principal article of Burmese export is cotton, and this I believe is
produced for the most part lower down the Irrawaddi.

The climate of Bamo is in April dry and sultry: the range of the
thermometer being from 66 degrees or 68 degrees to 94 degrees or 96
degrees. North-westers are of common occurrence in this month, and are
frequently of extreme severity. I saw very little cultivation about
Bamo, some of the ravines alluded to had lately been under rice-culture;
the chief part of the cultivation for vegetables, etc. is confined to the
sandy islands, which occur here and there.

Of the numerous villages passed between Bamo and Ava not one deserves
especial notice, nor is there one, with the exception of Umeerapoora, the
former capital, which contains 500 houses. Shewegyoo, which formerly
occupied a considerable extent of the left bank near the south opening of
the second Kioukdweng had been burnt by the orders of the Monein
Myoowoon, on account of their having supplied troops to the emissaries of
the Tharawaddi. Kioukgyee, the residence of the above governor, had a
short time before our arrival been invested by a force in the interest of
the Tharawaddi, but had been repulsed. The governor was to proceed with
the whole population, amounting to several hundred souls, to Bamo, to
join his forces with those of the Bamo governor. This part of the
country was most unsettled and almost deserted. On reaching Katha the
state of the country was more tranquil, all the people below this point
having espoused the cause of the Tharawaddi. Katha contains 200 houses,
and has a rather respectable bazaar; it is well situated, and has the
most eligible site in my opinion, of all the towns hitherto seen. The
most remarkable object is a noble Kioung, or Mosque, built by the head-
man of the place; this is one of the finest now existing in Burma.

The only other large place is Sheenmaga, about a day's journey from Ava.
This is said to contain 1,000 houses. An extensive fire had lately
occurred here. I counted 200 houses, and judging from the extent of the
ruins, I should say it might probably have numbered between 4 and 500.
There are several villages contiguous to this, and I think that the
district immediately contiguous is more populous than any part hitherto
seen.

During the above portion of the journey our halts were as follows:--

1. Tapaw.
2. Mogoung river.
3. Mogoung river.
4. Lemar, in the upper Kioukdweng.
5. Bamo.
6. Tsenkan.
7. Kioukgyee.
8. Katha.
9. Tsagaya.
10. Tagoung.
11. Male, at the entrance of the lower Kioukdweng.
12. Kabuet, in the lower Kioukdweng.
13. Male.
14. Menghoon.
15. Ava.

This distance down the Irrawaddi may, in a fast boat, be performed in ten
days, but owing to the disturbed state of the country we were compelled
to avail ourselves of the first opportunity that offered to enable us to
reach Ava; in addition the proper number of boatmen was not procurable,
everybody being afraid of approaching the capital even a few miles.

The chief product I saw was Teak, of this there were large rafts at
Tsenkan and elsewhere. This tree seems to abound in the hills forming
the NE. boundaries of Burmah. I did not, however, see any of large size.

Tea is found on hills to the east of Bamo, and at a distance of one day's
journey from that place. Through the kindness of Mr. Bayfield, I was
enabled to procure specimens; the leaves were decidedly less coarse, as
well as smaller, than those of the Assamese plants, and they occurred
both serrated and entire. No use is made of the wild plants in this
direction, and the Chinese at Bamo, asserted that it was good for
nothing. It must be remembered, however, that none of them had seen the
plant cultivated in China. Indeed the only real Chinaman we saw, was one
at Kioukgyee, serving the Myoowoon as a carpenter: this man had been to
England twice, and talked a little English.

Cotton is, I was informed, extensively cultivated.

But the most valuable product is the Ruby, which is procured from hills
to the eastward of Tsenbo, and which are, I believe, visible from the
opposite town, Mala. From the same place and to the SE., low hills are
visible, from which all the marble in extensive use for the carving of
images, is obtained; this marble has been pronounced by competent
authority to be of first-rate quality.

_Population_.--This must be considered as scanty. From a list of towns
and villages, observed by Captain Hannay, between Ava and Mogoung
inclusive, I estimated the population at 100,000 souls, but from this one-
third at least must be deducted. In this estimate of the number of
houses, Captain Hannay was probably guided, either by the Burmese census,
or by the statement of the writer who accompanied him. From the numbers
given by this officer, in almost every case one-third, and occasionally
one-half, or even more, must be deducted: as instances, I may cite his
statement of the number of houses in Bamo and Katha.

In almost every case Mr. Bayfield counted all the houses, and in all
doubtful cases, I counted them also at his request, so that I am enabled
to speak with great confidence on this point.

As a collateral proof of the scanty population of this extensive portion
of the Burmese territory, I may allude to the fact that Bamo, the third
place in Burmah, and the emporium of great part of an extensive Chinese
trade, contains only even at the rate of seven souls to each house, which
is two too many, 4,250 inhabitants. The capital may be adduced as an
additional instance; for including the extensive suburbs, no one
estimated it as having a larger population than 100,000. It must be
remembered also, that there is no doubt, but that the banks of the
Irrawaddi are more populous than any other portion of the kingdom.

Throughout the above rather long journey, we were treated, with one
exception, tolerably well; indeed our delays arose from the
unwillingness, real or pretended, of the authorities to forward us on
while the country remained so unsettled. The headman of Kamein on our
first arrival was extremely civil, but on our return after he had
received news of the revolt of the Tharawaddi, he behaved with great
insolence, and actually drew his dha on Mr. Bayfield. It must be
remembered however that he had been brought to task by the Mogoung
authorities for having, as it was said, accepted of a douceur for
allowing us to proceed to the serpentine mines.

The general idea entertained by the people through whose countries we
passed, was, that we had been sent to report upon the country prior to
its being taken under British protection. Of the existence of this idea,
Mr. Bayfield met with some striking proofs.

On reaching Katha our troubles ceased, and these, excepting at Kamein and
Mogoung, only arose from the evident wish of the natives to keep at a
distance from us, and not to interfere in one way or the other. At
Mogoung I consider it probable that we should have been detained had it
not been for the firm conduct of Mr. Bayfield, and his great knowledge of
the Burmese character. At this place the authority of the Myoowoon, who
was absent in Hookhoong, was totally disregarded, and his brother the
Myoowoah, was in confinement, the Shan Matgyee having espoused the cause
of the prince Tharawaddi.

_Conclusion_.--For the brief and rapid manner in which I have run through
this last section of my report, as well as for having forsaken the
arrangement adopted in the previous sections, I trust I shall be excused.
In the first place, this portion of the route had been previously
travelled over by Captain Hannay and by Mr. Bayfield, by whom much
additional information will be laid before Government; and in the second
place, I would advert to the hurried nature of this part of our journey,
and to the disturbed state of the country. For similar reasons I have
only drawn up this account to the period of my reaching Ava. It will be
at once seen that the information might have been much more extensive,
especially as regards the revenues of the districts, but I abstained from
interfering with subjects which were in every respect within the province
of Mr. Bayfield; and the minute and accurate manner in which this officer
performed the duties consigned to him, reconciled me at once to the
secondary nature of the objects which were left for my examination.

I subjoin a tabular view of the marches, this will not agree entirely
with those given in the body of the report, as one or two of those were
unavoidably short. I give the table to shew the shortest period in which
the journey could be accomplished by an European without constantly
overfatiguing himself. If the total distance be compared with an
estimate made from charts, all of which however are imperfect so far as
the country between Meinkhoong and Beesa is concerned, the tortuousness
of our course will be at once evident.

Marches. Miles

1 From Sadya to Noa Dehing Mookh, 6
2 To Rangagurreh, 12
3 To Moodoa Mookh, 12
4 To Kidding, 9
5 To Namroop Puthar, 12
6 To Beesa Lacoom, 12
7 To Halting place in the hills, 12
8 To Darap Panee, 12
9 To the Namtuseek, 12
10 Namtuseek, 10
11 To the Boundary Nullah, 12
12 To the Namaroan, 15
13 Namaroan, 13
14 To Khathung Khioung, 15
15 To Khussee Khioung, 13
16 To Kuttack Bhoom, 13
17 To Namtuseek, 10
18 To Nhempean, 18
19 To Kulleyang, 17
20 To Tsilone, 10
21 To Meinkhoong, 17
22 To Wullabhoom, 13
23 To Halting place towards the
Mogoung river, 22
24 Mogoung river, 15
25 Ditto ditto, 13
26 Ditto ditto, 14
27 Kamein, {145} 14
28 Mogoung, 25
---
Total number of miles, 378

The remaining distance performed in
boats may be thus estimated down the
Mogoung river to the Irrawaddi, 45

From the confluence of the Mogoung
river down the Irrawaddi to Ava, 240
---
663
---

Allowing twelve days for the performance of this last portion, which
however is too short a time, the entire distance may be performed in
forty days.

CHAPTER VIII.

_Notes made on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to_
_Rangoon_.

_28th May_.--I left Ava and halted about two miles above Menboo.

_29th May_.--Continuing the journey, the country appears flat with
occasionally low hills as about Kioukloloing, no large villages occur;
the river is sub-divided by churs; no large grasses to be seen, and the
vegetation is arid. Bombax is the chief tree: Mudar and Zizyphus occur:
Guilandina, Crotolaria a large Acanthacea, and a Jasminioides shrub are
the most common plants: Borassus is abundant: Fici occur about villages.
The banks are generally sandy, not high.

Yandebo. This is a wretched village; barren plains bounded to the east
by barren rather elevated hills; base jungly. Observed the tree under
which the treaty was signed with the Burmese at the close of the late
war. It is an ordinary mango, near a pagoda on a plain with two large
fig trees. I counted to-day 28 boats sailing up between this and our
halting place of yesterday, mostly large praows. The banks present few
trees, are flat, barren, and from being occasionally overflowed, adapted
to paddy.

Halted at Meengian, which is a middling sized village on the left bank,
about a mile below Tarof myoo.

_30th May_.--I made an excursion into the country which is dry, barren,
and sandy, with a descent towards the banks of the river. Zizyphus,
Acacia, Euphorbia 20 feet high, Calotropis, Capparis 2, etc., occur all
the same as before, only one Ehretiacea appears to be new. Hares are
very common. Likewise red and painted Partridges, and Quail. Carthamus
and Tobacco are cultivated, specially the latter at Meengian. The most
common tree here, is Urticea procera? which has always a peculiar
appearance. The country towards Pukoko becomes prettier, the left bank
wooded, and the ground sloped very gradually up to Kionksouk, which is
barren, and 2,000 feet high at least, with the slopes covered with
jungle.

_31st May_.--Passed Pagam, a straggling town of some size, famous for
its numerous old pagodas of all sorts. The surface of the country is
raviny, and the vegetation continues precisely the same. Below Pagam,
the range of low hills becomes very barren: altogether the country is
very uninteresting.

The low range of hills on the right bank is nearly destitute of
vegetation. The hills present a curious appearance of ridges, sometimes
looking like walls. The country continues the same.

Halted opposite Yowa.

_June 1st_.--A low range of hillocks here occurs on the left bank, and
as in other places, consisting of sandstone with stunted and scanty
vegetation.

Tselow is a large place on the left bank, the river is here much spread
out, with large sand banks. The hills on the right bank present the same
features; passed Pukangnai, a large village on the left bank. Passed
Pukkoko, Pagam, Tselow, etc., the hills about this last place abound with
Prionites. Strong wind prevails.

_June 2nd_.--Yeanangeown 10 A.M. The country continues exactly similar
to that already observed--hillocks intersected by ravines, loose
sandstone, very barren in appearance. Vegetation is the same, but more
stunted; fossil wood is common, especially in the bottom of ravines.
{147} Of fossils very few were seen, but more are to be procured by
digging. The most common trees are Zizyphus, Acacia, and a Capparis: the
most common grass Aristida. Arrived at Yeanangeown, a busy place judging
from the number of boats.

Wind less strong. At 2 P.M. stopped at Wengma-thoat, where Zizyphus is
extremely common. Euphorbia seems rather disappearing.

The plants met with at the halting place six miles above Yeanang, were
Euphorbia, Olax, Zizyphus, Mimosa, Carissa, Ximenia, Prionites,
Calotropis, Gymnema, Capparis pandurata et altera species arborea,
Murraya rare, Gossypium frutex 6-8-petal, Xanthophyllum blue, petiolis
alatis of Tagoung, Sidae sp. On the right bank flat churs continue
covered with a small Saccharum. Vegetation more abundant and greener
than before. Ficus again occurs and Stravadium occasionally.

Passed 5 P.M. Memboo at a large village on right bank, containing perhaps
200 houses. The river below this runs between two ranges of low hills,
similar in every respect to those already passed. A Kukkeen woman was
observed, who appeared to have a blue face, looking perfectly frightful.

_June 3rd_.--Maguay. Reached this place at 8 P.M. It is on the left
bank. It is a place of some importance. Many boats lying in the stream.
The country, is of the same dry, arid description: the banks of the river
are however lower than previously observed.

Passed Esthaiya, a small village on the right bank, at 6 A.M. Adelia
nereifolia continues common in some places.

Dhebalar, Meemgoon, two villages nearly opposite, neither of these
villages large. Ficus and Bombax are common; no Euphorbia was observed.

We are now evidently getting within the influence of the Monsoon, as the
vegetation is more green.

Passed Mellun, a village on the right bank. The hills on either side of
the river are higher and better wooded than before observed, and the
river itself is not more than 350 yards broad.

Observed gold washers below Meegyoung-yea, where they find gold, silver,
and rubies by washing the sands. Here Bombax is very common on the right
bank.

Passed Thembounwa, a village on the left bank. The country presents the
same ridges of singular hills formed of veins of slaty, tabular, brown
rock, this is very conspicuous at Thembounwa. The hills on the left bank
above Meeaday are very barren; the banks rocky.

Halted at Khayoo, just above Meeaday, at 7 P.M.

_June 4th_.--Passed Teiyet myoo, a village on the right bank, which
seems to have some cotton trade; the houses along the bank are wretched
in appearance. Meeaday was passed during a squall, I was thus prevented
from making any observation on it. Teiyet is the largest place I have
seen. The country we are now passing is very slightly undulated, soil
light and sandy. Fine tamarind trees occur, also Terminalia. In
addition to the usual plants a Lagerstraemia occurs, which attains the
size of a middling tree, and a frutescent Hypericum, Aristolochia, and
Hedyotis occur. Strong south wind prevails so that we can make no
progress whatever, I therefore went into the jungle and found Stravadium,
a fine Bignonia foliis pinnatis, floribus maximis, fere spitham.
infundibulif. subbilabiat. lacinus crispatis: one or two Acanthaceae, two
Gramineae, two Vandelliae, Bonnaya, Herpestes, Monniera, Rumex, Dentella,
three or four Cyperaceae, Ammannia, Crotalaria on sand banks, Triga in
woods and Bauhinia, Dioscoria, a pretty herbaceous perennial Ardisia,
etc. We have not made two miles since breakfasting at Teiyet, about four
hours ago. Convolvulus pileatus and dwarf bamboo are common on the low
hills. The Lagerstraemia has petals none, or minute squamiform.

Reached Caman Myoo, a village on the right bank, at 7 P.M.

_June 5th_.--Many boats are here, owing to there being an excellent
place of anchorage in still water, protected by an Island, but there are
not many houses in the village.

Below, the river again becomes confined between hills, but above this it
expands. These hills are rather bare: no Euphorbia exists, and the whole
vegetation is changed.

Now passing hills, chiefly covered with bamboos. Bignonia crispa occurs,
and a Scilloid plant out of flower is common. Aroideum, similar to that
of Katha, is common, a new species is likewise found, but it is a
Roxburghia, and rare.

Stravadium has very minute stipules, the habit and gemmation is that of
Ternstraemiaceae, and it perhaps connects this order with Myrtaceae;
Punica from this is certainly distinct, owing praeter alia to its valvate
calyx. Soneratia belongs I suspect to Lythrarieae, connecting it with
Myrtaceae.

The Roxburghia above alluded to, is a distinct genus.

Planta quam juniorem tantum vidi vex spithamaea. Radices plurimae
filiformes, cortice crassa, tenacissima obfibras foliiformas ad vaginam
redacta, superiora petiolique purpureo-brunnei, vernatione involutiva,
flores solitarii in axillis foliorum et vaginarum, albi carneo tincti.
Pedicellis subtereti apice, articulatis, monoicis.

Perianth sub-companulat, 4-sepalum, sepalis lanceolato-oblongis a medio
reflexis, estivat imbricat.

Stam. 4. sepalis alterna, filam subanth. magna, subsagittat, connectivo
magno supra in apiculum longum product, et inter loculos in carinam
(carneam) purpuream, loculi angustissimi, viridis, alabastrus lutescens.
Pollen viridescens. Faemin flos, infimus, unum tantum vidi sepala
longiora herbacea, stam. 0.

Ovarium compressum, fol. carpell () {149}, stylus conicus, ovar viridis,
stigma sub-simplex.

Char. gen. Flores monoici Per. 4, sepalum, stam. 4.

Arrived at Prome on the left bank, the stockade seemed to be out of
repair: the water front of the stockade is about 800 yards in length: it
extends about 200 yards back from the river, and beyond the hill on which
are pagodas: opposite the pagodas it is of brick, and beyond this a long
line of houses or huts extends; there is no appearance of improvement
going on. The hills on the opposite side present the same features,
trees just commencing to leaf; every thing indicates a temporary
sterility caused by the long hot season. Above this place we passed a
village extending 500 yards along the river. Cocoa trees thrive well
here, and are not uncommon. Borassus continues.

Shwe Doung, 6 miles from Prome, is as large as Prome itself: the country
beyond this expands; no hills were seen near this part of the river; some
way below Palmyras are common; Bombax, Ficus, and Tamarind are the chief
trees.

Passed Reedan, a straggling place on the left bank. A range of hills
occur, extending close along the right bank, and which, as well as the
distant ones, are wooded to the summit, as the hills are on the Malay
Coast.

Passed Thengyee, a village on the right bank. Hills at this place
approach close to the river for a short way, but soon cease. They are
covered with Teak, scarped, and many images are carved in the recesses of
the rock, apparently sandstone. Thengyee, just below this, seems to be a
great place for boat-building.

Halted at Talownmo at 7.5 P.M.

_June 6th_.--At this place there are no hills near the river, which is
sub-divided by islands. Painted partridge continues. Kioungee; palmyra
trees continue in plenty. Talipat never seen dead, but with its
inflorescence. Passed Meavion and Runaown. Palmyras here occur: great
numbers of boats passing up and down. Traffic considerable.

Moneu, a village on the left bank, at which many boats were observed.

The river banks throughout are today flat and alluvial, and those of the
Islands are covered with moderate sized grasses; extreme banks jungly.
Palmyras continue.

Halted at Thendan, on left bank.

_June 7th_.--The country here has the usual alluvial features; few
villages are seen, but as the river is sub-divided, one must not judge
from this and the consequent barren appearance, that the country is less
populated than above.

Stravadium is common in the woods: on the banks, noticed Acrostichum
difforme; Epiphytical Orchideae are common. Urticea fructibus late
obcordatis.

Passed Tharawa, a village on the left bank, and Theenmaga myoo on the
right bank, which seems a large place; here Pandanus commences. Palmyras
were seen, together with a few Areca. At 4 P.M. I saw at Zulone myoo,
for the first time during the descent, a Crocodile, which is an
indication of our approach to the coast. A Bombax is now common on some
of the islands, the banks are now generally grassy.

This Bombax is apparently the same as that of Assam; the river here
resembles the B. pootur about Chykwar.

Halted at a small village about six miles above Donai-byoo near Dollong.

_June 8th_.--Donai-byoo, 7 A.M. This is a large place, on the right
bank, having a good many boats.

Niown Sheedouk on the left bank, three miles below Donai-byoo, is
likewise a large place.

Tides exist here, and their influence extends upwards as far as Zulone,
that is to say, the stream is much diminished during the flood. Entered
Rangoon river at 1 P.M.: it is here not more than 200 yards broad.
Nioungdoa is a middling sized village, situated about a mile from the
mouth or entrance, at which were observed plenty of boats. The banks of
the river are here grassy; tall Saccharum and Arundo occur, but not so
large as those of Assam. The river a small way below the mouth is not
more than 100 yards wide. Bombax and Ficus are the most common trees:
Lagerstraemia grandiflora forms a little tree jungle: Butea likewise
occurs.

Passed Tsamaloukde, a small village on the right bank.

_June 9th_.--Halted at 6 this morning at a small village on the left
bank. The features of the country now become paludosal. Acanthus
ilicifolius, Cynometra acacisides, Cyperaceae, Soneralia acida,
Avicennia, Stravadium, Croton malvaefolium are very common, Creni sp.
Caesalpinia, and a leguminous tree, fructibus 1-spermis, drupaceis,
Webera, Premna, Cissi sp. potius _Vitis_, Clerodendri sp. Heritiera
fomes, Flagellaria indica, Hibisci species populneae affinis, Arundo,
Ambrosinia 2 species.

Country open, low, and quite flat, admirable for rice cultivation.

Crinoid giganteum, Excaecaria, Agallocha, no Rhizophores, Ipomaea
floribus maximis, hypocrateriform, albis, foliis cordatis. Soneratia
apetala less common, but becomes more so as we approach Rangoon, it is an
elegant tree with pendulous branchlets. Heritiera is very common and
conspicuous when in flower, it is then of a yellow brown tint;
Acrostichum aureum, Calamus, and Lomaria scandens occur.

CHAPTER IX.

_Journal towards Assam and to Bootan--contains notes on_
_distribution of Plants_.

Left Calcutta a second time on the 31st August 1837, arrived at Serampore
on the 1st September, and spent the day with the Voights.

_September 3rd_.--Continue on the Hooghly: paddy cultivation prevails
and Crotalaria juncea; this last is sown broadcast in low places, but not
quite so low as paddy. Bengallees are but slovenly husbandmen; grass,
etc. collected by them in small cocks, and covered with a small thatch,
which answers its purpose as well as a narrow brimmed hat would answer
that of an umbrella. Broken earthenware not unfrequently visible in the
banks, in some places at the depth of 3-4 feet. Unsettled weather, with
gusts of strong wind from the S. and SSE. Thermometer 78 degrees 82'.
The usual Calcutta birds continue, jackdaw-like crow, Falco
pondicherainus, two common mainas, Ardea indica, and the white one.

Came on the Ganges about noon; on passing Chobda had the horror of seeing
the bodies of burning Hindoos, the friends who are present at these
funeral rites turning them about with sticks, so as to give each side its
share of fire. The women bathe in their ordinary dresses: these though
ample are of fine cotton fabric, so that when wet more of the shape is
disclosed than is deemed desirable in Europe, but exposure of person has
no repugnant effect on Asiatics.

The Matabangah is a small, very tortuous, stream, not exceeding 70 yards
in breadth: the banks are low, either wooded to the edge or covered with
grass, such as Cynodon. Excellent pasturage prevails, as indicated by
the number of cows.

_Monday 4th_.--Wind SE. There are not many villages in the vicinity of
the river; passed yesterday Kranighat, where there is a toll, from which
officers on duty are exempt; but as no precautions seem to be taken to
keep the river clear, no toll whatever should be taken: although the
latter is high, the receipts must be very small. Passed Arskally about
noon, the banks are composed occasionally of pure sand, and the country
becomes more open, with very little jungle, much indigo cultivation
occurs. Thermometer 78 degrees 85'.

_Tuesday_, _5th_.--Wind SW. The country continues the same as before. At
2 P.M., we reached Krishnapoor.

_Wednesday_, _6th_.--8 A.M. We left the Matabangah river and entered a
less tortuous nullah. The country continues the same. Much indigo
cultivation still occurs. We saw yesterday evening a large herd of cows
swim across the Matabangah; they were led by a bull, who kept turning
round every now and then to see whether his convoy was near him. Today I
saw a rustic returning from his labours, with his plough thrown easily
across his shoulders; to a strong Englishman the feat of walking home
with such a plough, cattle, and all would not be very difficult. Indigo
is cut about a foot from the ground, then tied in bundles. Water for
steeping it in is raised from the rivers by something like chair-buckets,
only the buckets are represented by flat pieces of wood, the whole is
turned on an axle by the tread of men; the water is carried upon an
inclined narrow plane; the machine answers its purpose very well, and the
natives work it with great dexterity. At 5 P.M., we came on a stream 100
yards wide, down which we proceeded.

_Thursday_, _7th_.--The country continues much the same. Of birds the
black and white peewit is not uncommon;--cormorants, etc. also occur.
P.M. Thermometer 90 degrees.

_Friday_, _8th_.--The country is more low and more sub-divided by rivers
than before. Abundance of indigo. Pumps also used, as before observed,
for raising water. Passed Moodoo Kully at 5 P.M., and left its river for
a small nullah. Indigo abundant on all sides throughout the day's
journey.

_Saturday_, _9th_.--Continue in this nullah. Country wooded. Phaenix
sylvestris very abundant: Areca Catechu also becoming abundant. A good
deal of cultivation occurs, mottled chiefly with sugar-cane and
vegetables. The habits of the black and white kingfisher, Alcedo rudis,
are different from those of the other Indian species: it never perches,
choosing rather the ground to rest upon: it builds in banks: takes its
prey by striking it from a height of 20 feet or thereabouts, previously
fluttering or hovering over it. The size and figure of this bird when
resting on the ground, resembles the two common Indian Terns.

Palms, contrary to what might be supposed from the nature of these
plants, can put forth additional buds;--this is exemplified in phaenix
sylvestris, the stems of which are deeply and alternately notched by the
natives for procuring toddy. When this is carried to a great extent, the
tree either dies or a new apex is formed laterally. The old notches, as
might be expected, at length, become much obliterated. It is from the
study of such palms that much light will be thrown on the growth of
monocotyledonous stems. The vegetation of jheels is now obviously
commencing. Pistia stratioles, Nymphaea, Potamogeton, Potamochloa,
Oplismenus stagninus, and Villarsia occur. Reached Furreedpore at 7 P.M.

_Sunday_, _10th_.--Came on the Paddo, an immense stream 1.5 miles wide,
with a very strong current, about a mile to the East of Furreedpore.
Lagerstraemia Regina here occurs.

_Monday_, _11th_.--The country is become much lower since leaving
Furreedpore, and is inundated during the height of the rains. The
peculiar vegetation of jheels predominant; that of the jungle continues
much the same. Plhugoor continues plentiful. No palmyras. Mangoes
plentiful, but small. Passed a deserted Roman Catholic Chapel, and
Priest's house. White-winged long-nailed water-hens becoming plentiful.

_Tuesday_, _12th_.--The country abounds more in jheels: in many places
nothing is visible but water, in which huge plains of floating grasses
occur. The villages are very numerous, and occupy in fact almost every
spot of ground not subject ordinarily to inundation. Damasonium Indicum,
Nymphaea pubescens occur in profusion. The grass which exists in such
vast quantities is, I believe, Oplismenus stagninus. The water of these
jheels is clear, black when deep, which it often is to a great extent.

_Wednesday_, _13th_.--Reached Dacca about 2 P.M.: it is a large and
populous place. The numerous grass of the jheels is sown there: it is
the red bearded _dhan_ or paddy grass: of this vast quantities are cut
for fodder, for, the whole face of the country being overflowed, it
follows that the cattle are throughout the rains kept in stalls.

_Thursday_, _14th_.--Left about noon, and proceeded down the Dacca river
about 5 miles, then diverged into a narrow creek running nearly south.
Along this were observed fine specimens of tamarind trees. Stravadium in
abundance. Sonninia scandens, and Mango, both in abundance. Passed at 5
P.M. Neerangunge, a large native town, and below it Luckepoor. A vast
expanse of water appeared near this, viz., the Megna. A good deal of
native shipping occurs, consisting of brigs: great quantities of rice
being exported from both places. Pelicans I observed here to roost in
trees.

[View in the jheels: p154.jpg]

Friday, 15th.--In the midst of jheels: the whole face of the country is
covered with water several feet deep. Vast quantities of Oplismenus
stagninus still occur.

_Saturday_, _16th_.--Still in jheels. The same features continue. The
country is still very populous, all the more elevated spots having
villages. Oplismenus stagninus still prevails in vast quantities.

_Sunday_, _17th_.--Jheels in every direction:--nothing indeed seen but
water, with occasional grassy or reedy, and elevated spots occupied by
villages:--here and there a round-headed tree springing apparently out of
the water. Hills visible to the east. Cormorants, Ciconia nudiceps,
paddy-birds, the common white ones with black feet, are abundant, and
associate in flocks: there is one very nearly allied to this, which is
solitary, having black feet with yellow toes. The boats of this district
are very simple, something like a Bengal _dingy_ reversed, but they are
sharp in the bows and ought to be fast; their only mode of progression is
to be pushed along by means of poles. There appears to be a great number
of Mussulmans, who would here seem to form the majority of the
population. Strong winds from the south interrupt our progress.

_Monday_, _18th_.--Delayed by bad weather.

_Tuesday_, _19th_.--Continued to pass through same kind of country, but
less jheelly. The Cook boat was left behind on the 17th in a squall, and
has not come up yet, so that I dine with the boatmen.

The black and white long-toed water-hen continues plentiful: when alarmed
by kites, etc. it pursues them uttering a low mournful scream, until it
has succeeded in getting its enemy off to some distance; it then returns,
I suppose to its young; otherwise its cry is something like the mewing of
a cat, or rather a low hollow moan. The hills are plainly visible to-
day, lying towards the north.

The males of the white and black water-hen have tails something like
those of a pheasant. There are two other species: one that is found on
the Tenasserim coast; the other is much larger,--the size, of a large
domestic fowl: one of the sexes, has red wattles on its head. The white
and black one is far the most common; it feeds apparently, in flocks: the
Maulmain one is the least common. These with Ardea Indica, the white,
black-toed, yellow-beaked Ardea, Ciconia nudiceps a small brown _chat_?,
Pica vagabunda, are the birds of the jheels or rather the dry spots in
them. I saw yesterday a flock of the black Ibis, flying _in a_
_triangle_ (>) _without a base_, the party was headed by one of the
white paddy-birds! Villages have become very numerous, and the
population abundant and flourishing. The cattle are, as I have said,
stalled and fed with paddy grass, quantities of boats being employed for
its conveyance. Oplismenus stagninus appears less common about here.

_Thursday_, _21st_.--Still among jheels; our progress is necessarily very
slow; we are indeed scarcely moving, there being no tracking ground:
jheels occur in every direction, although the hills are not 15 miles
distant. Pelicans with white and black marked wings occur, together with
the slate-colored eagle with white tail, barred at tip with black; it is
common in the low wooded places surrounded by jheels. Black-bellied Tern
occurs, but not that of Assam.

_Friday_, _22nd_.--Arundo and two species of Saccharum occur, among which
S. spontaneum, is very common and of large size. We reached the Soorma
river about 12 o'clock, 3 or 4 miles above Mr. Inglis's house.

I arrived at Chattuc on the 21st, which place I left for Pundoa the
following day. There are no mountains of this name as would seem from
the habitat of some plants given in Roxburgh's Flora Indica. The
mountains therein called Pundoa are the Khasya or Cossiah range; Pundoa,
is the name of a village called by the natives Puddoa. The jheels are
for a great part under cultivation. The paddy cultivation is of two
kinds; it is either sown in the jheels just at the commencement of the
inundation, or it is sown on higher portions, and then transplanted into
the jheels. Jarool, Lagerstraemia Regina is the chief timber, it comes
from Kachar; it is a dear and not a durable wood.

Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there is
also a Grimmia here on the river banks.

Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, very
rarely.

Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are not
wooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined to
ravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with grass. Here and there,
scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may be
seen to fall.

Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P.M., and here
regulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with the
large thermometer 210.5 degrees, by means of the one in wooden case 210.5
degrees, temperature of the air 92.5 degrees, red case thermometer
indicated the boiling point at 206 degrees!! nor would the mercury rise
higher.

_Saturday_, _23rd_.--Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to which
point the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great part
with gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckia
nepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax,
Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very large
Rottboellia, Bauheniae 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiaria
may all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is a
pure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng,
between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon,
Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varecae sp. Impatiens in abundance,
oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; rather
higher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; AEschynanthus fulgens, jack
and sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tender
Lycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences,
probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks with
Gordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum,
Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C.
bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as also
Andropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, in
fact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick tree
jungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with grass, either
Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur.
Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changed
especially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills is
covered with grasses, interspersed w